American Cabernet Franc: Panel tasting results

Amanda Barnes, Vincenzo Arnese and Ben Gubbins tasted 149 wines, with 5 Outstanding and 61 Highly recommended.

American Cabernet Franc: Panel tasting scores

149 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 5

Highly recommended 61

Recommended 69

Commended 8

Fair 6

Poor 0

Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release dry, still red wines made from a minimum of 75% Cabernet Franc grapes.

Cabernet Franc is undoubtedly a rising star of the Americas. Although still niche, it has been steadily rising in the ranks and playing a greater role in each of the major wine countries. Its leafy, peppery, fresh, fragrant style can offer the ideal counterpart to the richer styles of heavyweight champion varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Tannat and Merlot.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the American Cabernet Franc panel tasting

This tasting was a fantastic opportunity to take the pulse of what is becoming a very exciting category across both continents. Of the 149 entries, more than 44% scored 90 points or above – a rather impressive result, given how new the boom in Cabernet Franc is.

‘It was a great performance which showed really excellent quality and value,’ said Ben Gubbins. ‘It was very interesting to see the breadth and variety of the wines – from cool-climate, restrained wines to big and bold ones! I hadn’t expected such versatility.’

The diversity of styles was a talking point during the two days of the tasting. We found it surprising, and a little disappointing, that there were far more producers chasing riper, richer styles than the lithe, fragrant and spicy styles that this variety can achieve so well. The top scorers were wines that embraced the fresher, more peppery and floral style, offering balance yet pronounced varietal typicity.

‘Some regions have a better vision of what they want to do with Cabernet Franc, while others it seems are still finding their direction,’ Vincenzo Arnese reasoned. ‘Argentina and Chile were very consistent, and I was especially impressed by Uruguay, which showed very good potential. The US showed more the style of wines that US consumers like to drink, and the Canadians seem to be still deciding what they want to do with the variety.’

See notes and scores for all the American Cabernet Franc panel tasting wines

Stylistically, we saw a huge range of expressions in Canada and the US – from lighter-bodied wines from New Jersey and spicy wines from British Columbia to the dense, brooding wines from Washington State and rich opulence from Napa and Niagara. While our sampling from Chile was disappointingly slim, there were some lively expressions; and Uruguay impressed with its distinctive savoury character and balance.

There was, however, no doubt that Argentina is the leader of American Cabernet Franc. Although there was some winemaking diversity, Argentina – especially the Uco Valley – unquestionably has an affinity for the variety and a clear direction towards floral, herbaceous styles with freshness and a fine, chalky texture on the palate.

The wines that least impressed the panel were those that overdid it with the oak and overshot with ripeness. ‘I think we would have been more impressed with more perfumed, elegant styles,’ said Arnese. ‘The wines that express the grape variety and its personality best are not covered by winemaking.’

To our delight, though, there were plenty of wines that really did stand out and let the variety shine: elegant, fragrant and engaging. There were certainly some flashes of brilliance in this tasting, and many glimmers of excitement as to why Cabernet Franc truly is a rising star of the Americas.

American Cabernet Franc: Panel tasting scores

The judges

Amanda Barnes is a writer and presenter specialising in South American travel and wine. A DWWA judge, she is author of the award-winning South America Wine Guide (£35 southamericawineguide.com)

Vincenzo Arnese is the director of wine at Raffles London at the OWO. Born in Naples, he specialised in sommellerie at hospitality school, then worked at top hotels in Italy, Switzerland, and Australia, as well as Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester

Ben Gubbins is general manager and WSET wine educator at Vagabond Wines in London. A native of Chile, he previously worked as UK & Europe sales director for Dos Andes Wines before joining Vagabond in 2013

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