Chilean Sauvignon Blanc panel tasting - 'Tread carefully'

62 wines tasted, with 10 Highly Recommended by our panel of Peter Richards MW, Patricio Tapia & Dirceu Vianna Junior MW Summary A run of poor vintages has contributed to a disappointing tasting, with few high points. Tread carefully, especially with the 2017 vintage, advises Peter Richards MW ... Was this the most underwhelming Decanter panel tasting ever? Quite possibly. Certainly, in the judges’ view, this was one of the worst Chilean panel tastings in recent memory, if not the worst. As one commented: ‘Rather than giving a drinking window, for many of these wines I was tempted to write: “Never!”’ Read our full report below [subscriber-content] Sauvignon Blanc is usually a strong point for Chile.As one of the country’s most widely planted varieties, it's produced in a range of styles across price brackets, with some world-class examples at the top end.This tasting sought samples from all over the country in the £8-£30 price bracket. What could possibly go wrong? Lots, clearly. First, the numbers: 62 wines were tasted – itself not a huge sample size for a tasting like this, perhaps reflective of the lack of confidence or shortage of stock. Quick link See all 62 tasting notes & scores from this panel tasting Of these, more than half (33) scored 85 points or less. Only 10 wines (16% of those entered) broached the 90-point threshold – there were only two scores of 92 and the highest a solitary 93. Tumbleweed ran through the Outstanding and Exceptional categories. So what did go wrong? Well, the timing for one. Two-thirds of the wines in this tasting (42) were from the 2017 harvest, the fourth testing year in a row for Chile. It was clear that many producers had been forced either to harvest early and underripe, making for lean, simple styles, or had waited too long. Many wines simply lacked personality or length. ‘It [2017] was one of the worst vintages for Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, and this was one of the key reasons for the poor performance in this tasting,’ commented Patricio Tapia. Less than one third of the 2017 wines made it over 86 points. ‘These wines do a disservice to Chile,’ was the reaction of Dirceu Vianna Junior MW. Dilution, lack of personality, poor value for money and frequent issues with reduction (sulphide characteristics) were cited as reasons for this verdict and ascribed to overly high yields, imprecise winemaking, ambitious pricing and cutting corners in production. Few regions emerged unscathed from the carnage. The Central Valley proved dire, as usual. Tapia identified ‘the north’, particularly Elqui and Limarí, as positives – albeit based on relatively few examples, and as wines ‘for connoisseurs’. Buying advice On balance, San Antonio (including Leyda) outperformed Casablanca, the latter tending in Tapia’s view to be ‘more generic in quality and character’, while the former delivered slightly more intensity and complexity. ‘If I were to pick a Sauvignon Blanc from Chile, I’d go for San Antonio,’ was his advice. Stylistically, the few examples using oak worked well, adding depth and roundness without falling into excess. ‘Oak was quite intelligently used when it did crop up, adding textural elegance,’ said Vianna. So what lessons can be learned? For us drinkers, beware the 2017 vintage. There are exceptions, from Chile’s more northerly reaches in particular, but too many duds for comfort – 2016 and, when it comes, 2018 probably make safer bets. Also, don’t be afraid of oaked Chilean Sauvignon. And choose your producer with care. For the producers, lessons need to be learned. Respect the vintage and your consumers – and adapt pricing accordingly. Don’t cut corners in winemaking, lower the yields, focus on character and quality. Above all, get Chilean Sauvignon back on track. The scores 62 wines tasted Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest release Sauvignon Blancs available in the UK for £8.99 or more. Two wines per producer were allowed Exceptional 0 Outstanding 0 Highly Recommended 10 Recommended 19 Commended 15 Fair 8 Poor 8 Faulty 2 See all 62 tasting notes & scores from this panel tasting Our tasters each pick their top 3 wines from the tasting: Peter Richards MW Richards is the Decanter World Wine Awards Regional Chair for Chile and has thus far authored three books including The Wines of Chile and his own Chile Wine Brief. Married to Susie Barrie MW, together they run a wine school and wine festival in Winchester. [breakout] Morandé, Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca 2016 Ricardo Baettig has long made serious, cultured Sauvignon in the top echelons of Morandé’s range – styles that major on texture as much as aromatics. This is a great-value, elegantly oaked example. 94 Drink 2018-2020 Ventolera, Sauvignon Blanc, Leyda 2016 While it seems as if the aromas have been slightly flattened by a touch of botrytis, this wine is all about the palate: intense, layered, balanced, packed with revitalising citrus freshness but also mineral weight. 94 Drink 2018-2020 Ventisquero, Grey Sauvignon Blanc, Atacama 2017 Chile’s arid north can make beautiful, poised Sauvignon in a more subdued, mineral style. A deft touch of oak lends smoky aromatics and mineral weight to a piercing citrus core. This pioneering Atacama venture keeps getting better. 92 Drink 2018-2020[/breakout] Patricio Tapia Tapia is Wine & Spirits magazine’s wine critic for Argentina, Chile and Spain, and a host on the El Gourmet channel in South America. Publications include The Wines of Colchagua Valley, Todo Vino, and his annual Descorchados guide to the wines of Argentina, Chile and Uruguay. [breakout] Tabalí, Talinay Sauvignon Blanc, Limarí Valley 2017 Going beyond merely fruit, this wine seems to be made of chalk. Its mineral, austere flavours reflect the calcareous soil of the Talinay vineyard, and the sharp force of the acidity reflects the nearby presence of the cold Pacific ocean. 94 Drink 2018-2021 Ventisquero, Grey Sauvignon Blanc, Atacama 2017 On the northern borders of Chilean wine, and adjacent to the Pacific, this shows a herbal side over a layer of intensely mineral flavours. Refreshing and crunchy at the same time. 93 Drink 2018-2020 Viña Undurraga, TH Lo Abarca Sauvignon Blanc, San Antonio 2016 Located 4km from the Pacific, one of the closest spots to the sea here. Offers a clear sense of place with its pungent acidity and citrus/herbal flavours, generous body and firm, vibrant textures. 92 Drink 2018-2019[/breakout] Dirceu Vianna Junior MW Enotria & Coe’s wine director in the UK is known to many as just Junior. Originally from Brazil, he moved to London in 1989, and in 2008 became the first male South American Master of Wine, also receiving the Viña Errazuriz Award for excellence in the Business of Wine paper. [breakout] Morandé, Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca 2016 The talent of winemaker Ricardo Baettig is evident here. Pure and precise with succulent fruit, beautiful creamy texture and a sophisticated finish. 93 Drink 2018-2020 Miguel Torres, Cordillera Sauvignon Blanc, Elqui Valley 2015 This revolutionary producer keeps breaking boundaries, crafting superb wines under the eye of winemaker Fernando Almeda. Beautiful smoky minerality and mouthwatering freshness. 92 Drink 2018-2020 Montes, Outer Limits Sauvignon Blanc, Zapallar 2017 Great example from the granite and clay soils of the coastal part of Aconcagua, a stone’s throw from the Pacific. An overt and expressive wine displaying an array of tropical flavours, gooseberry, asparagus, nettles and herbs. Invigorating and refreshing in all its aspects. 92 Drink 2018-2020[/breakout] About Chilean Sauvignon Blanc Love it or hate it, there’s no denying Sauvignon Blanc’s global popularity and repute. It’s a firm fixture on the Chilean wine scene too, by a significant margin the country’s most widely planted white variety. It pops up in all corners of Chile’s increasingly stretched wine map, from the Atacama desert down to the deep south, by way of coastal extremes and Andean reaches. It wasn’t always this way. While Sauvignon Blanc has long been a key part of Chile’s wine offering, at one time it was largely confined to the Central Valley heartlands of Curicó and Maule. Often it wasn’t even real Sauvignon Blanc – instead frequently made from Sauvignonasse (now known to be the same as Italy’s Friulano, an entirely different and relatively neutral variety). Perhaps fittingly – given how well a good Sauvignon washes down the delicious seafood sustained by the chilly Pacific – it was the ocean’s cooling influence that gave pioneering producers the idea to plant whites nearer its shores from the 1980s on. First Casablanca, then San Antonio, and since then a host of promising terroirs where the Pacific’s influence brings a longer season, hence more complex, intense flavours – from Aconcagua Costa to coastal Colchagua (Paredones), Atacama (Huasco), Limarí, Elqui and beyond. Explore the styles More recently, other more inland plantings have added to Sauvignon’s diversity in Chile. Some of these are in Andean territories, with unique soils and microclimates – Laberinto (Ribera del Lago) in Maule and Calyptra in Cachapoal are two examples. Others look to the cooler, rainier south, surely an area with a bright future – Casa Silva’s Lago Ranco project is a case in point. Styles are increasingly varied as a result. Traditionally, Chilean Sauvignon sits somewhere between what might be termed the ‘classic’ extrovert New Zealand style and the more restrained Old World iterations. These days, you can find everything from invigorating yet subtle styles (often from northern territories like Limarí or Huasco) to tangy, pungent versions (Elqui), or the broad, spicy intensity of San Antonio. Casablanca does everything from easygoing styles (valley floor and east) to more aromatic, citric, complex examples from its more coastal westerly hillsides. Getting to know producers and sub-zones is increasingly important in Chilean Sauvignon. Oaked Sauvignon is still a niche trend but one that should be explored more. The growing use of foudres rather than new barrels means more subtle aromatic impact while enhancing texture. Other alternative vessels – concrete eggs, stainless steel barrels – are also being used to good effect. Questionable trends like blending with other aromatic varieties (Gewürztraminer, for example) are sadly still in evidence, while the obvious partner Semillon is rarely used. Although prices have been creeping up of late, it’s still early days. Much still remains to discover, explore, improve and refine. A series of challenging vintages hasn’t made life easy. But Sauvignon Blanc is clearly a variety that will go on to be a strong point for Chile. [breakout] Chilean Sauvignon Blanc: the facts National vineyard area 137,375ha Sauvignon Blanc plantings (2016) 14,999ha As % of Chilean vineyard (2006/2016) 7%/11% 10-year change in plantings (2006-2016) +72% Five-year change in plantings (2011-2016) +8% Key regions (planted area) Curicó, Maule, Casablanca, Colchagua Key regions (quality) San Antonio, Limarí, Aconcagua Costa, Elqui, Casablanca Production (2017) 123m litres As % of total Chilean fine wine production 15% Rank in Chilean fine wine production 2nd (behind Cabernet Sauvignon) Sources: SAG production report 2017; SAG vineyard register 2016 Chilean Sauvignon Blanc: know your vintages 2018 A coolish, late season resulted in fresh, upfront styles: could be good 2017 Brutally hot, wildfire-plagued vintage: generally calamitous for Sauvignon 2016 Some decent, if variable Sauvignon harvested before the torrential rains 2015 Another warm vintage gave generous styles, variable for Sauvignon 2014 Frosts hit production hard but some good results, albeit patchy[/breakout] [/subscriber-content] Top Chilean Sauvignon Blanc from the panel tasting : Click on the wines to see the full tasting notes. [wine-collection] You might also like: Recent Chile vintages: A review and wines to try New Zealand 2017: A vintage recap and whites to try Treating Malbec ‘like Pinot Noir’: The new terroir approach

PREMIUM

Chilean Sauvignon Blanc panel tasting – ‘Tread carefully’

62 wines tasted, with 10 Highly Recommended by our panel of Peter Richards MW, Patricio Tapia & Dirceu Vianna Junior MW

Summary

Read our full report below

Top Chilean Sauvignon Blanc from the panel tasting:

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