The full tasting notes - by Stephen Brook
The following wines are a personal selection of over 130 top red wines from the several hundred tasted during January 2011’s en primeur campaign. It includes 20 or so wines that offer excellent value. It would have been easy to list only grands crus, but I have tried to select wines from a range of vineyards and prices. This does not pretend to be a comprehensive list, as many of the top estates – Romanée-Conti, Leroy, Mortet, Dujac, Ramonet, Leflaive, Coche-Dury, Roumier, Rousseau, and a few others – do not make their wines available for press tastings at this stage – or, in some cases, ever.
Domaine Meo-Camuzet, Aux Brulees, Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru 2009
Muted raspberry and cherry nose. Rich and suave, voluptuous, very concentrated, seamless texture and magnificent fruit. Spicy, complex, and very long. Wildly expensive, but Grand Cru quality. Drink 2016-2030. (18.5 points)
£2100/case (in bond)
Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900)
Domaine Lamarche, Grand Cru, La Grande Rue 2009
Rich dense cherry nose. Plump, rich and full-bodied, spicy, powerful, with energy and depth, complexity and persistence. Drink 2015-2030. (18.5 points)
£1645-1920/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Joseph Drouhin, Grand Cru, Griotte-Chambertin 2009
Sumptuous cherry nose, lush and seductive. Rounded and full-bodied, with very ripe tannins, but not heavy or extracted, as good acidity gives it drive and punch. Good length and excellent potential. Drink 2014-2025. (18.5 points)
£1650/case (in bond)
Bordeaux Index, London EC1 (020 7253 2110)
Domaine Jean Tardy & Fils, Champerrier, Vieilles Vignes, Gevrey-Chambertin 2009
Reserved nose. Full-bodied and opulent, concentrated and fleshy, and has vigour derived from quite good acidity. Long. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
£285/case (in bond)
Bordeaux Index, London EC1 (020 7253 2110)
Domaine des Varoilles, La Romanee, Monopole, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru 2009
This monopole premier cru has a voluptuous nose, gorgeously fruity, with a kiss of oak and cloves. The palate is equally sumptuous and seductive, with a velvety texture as well as evident tannic structure. Drink 2013-2022. (18 points)
£430/case (in bond)
Corney & Barrow, London (0207 265 2430)
Domaine Jean Guiton, les Sizies, Beaune 1er Cru 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Fresh lively raspberry and redcurrant nose. Fresh, live, and forward, though has some tannic backbone. Sprightly with more charm than depth, but refreshing and long. Drink 2012-2017. (17 points)
£175/case (in bond)
Flint Wines, London (020 8777 4737)
Domaine Geantet-Pansiot, le Poissenot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru 2009
Sweet delicate oaky nose, red fruits. Medium-bodied, sleek and stylish, compact but not extracted, with supple tannins but plenty of grip and length. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
£485-545/case (in bond)
Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Bouchard Pere & Fils, Grand Cru, Bonnes-Mares 2009
Sweet, almost candied nose, opulent fruit. Voluptuous and concentrated, with splendid fruit and peppery vigour, leading to a long oaky finish. Drink 2014-2025. (18 points)
£1800/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655)
Domaine Jean Grivot, les Pruliers, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru 2009
Sweet, ripe, intense raspberry nose, very stylish. Medium-bodied but has intensity, firm tannins and a tight structure; balanced, long, and with fine potential; good length. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
approx £636-720/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Bibendum, London NW1 (020 7449 4120), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065), Uncorked, London EC2 (020 7638 5998)
Domaine Henri Gouges, les Saint-Georges, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru 2009
Ripe, precise, stylish red fruits nose. The palate is different, dense and full-bodied, with depth and grip. Very tannic now, with moderate acidity and quite good length. Drink 2015-2022. (17.5 points)
£650-760/case (in bond)
Bibendum, London NW1 (020 7449 4120), Genesis Wines, London SW1 (020 7963 9060), Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Domaine Geantet-Pansiot, En Champs, Gevrey-Chambertin 2009
Muted but ripe cherry nose. Rich, concentrated, and quite powerful; this has grip without being too extracted; complex, vigorous, and long. Drink 2013-2020. (17 points)
£395-445/case (in bond)
Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Domaine Fourrier, Vieilles Vignes, Gevrey-Chambertin 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Charming and lively red-fruits nose. Supple and charming, but also concentrated and backed by ripe tannins, giving plenty of grip, typicity, and persistence. Drink 2013-2020. (17 points)
£260-270/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900)
Domaine Michel Gros, Chambolle-Musigny 2009
Exquisitely perfumed nose, a distillation of red fruits. Full-bodied and concentrated, but h a light touch, showing intensity and purity rather than power and opulence. Excellent balance and length. Drink 2015-2025. (18 points)
POA
Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855)
Domaine Geantet-Pansiot, Grand Cru, Charmes-Chambertin 2009
Dense cherry nose. Lush and rounded, concentrated yet limpid, with fine racy acidity; intense and very youthful, but lacks a little persistence. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
£775-890/case (in bond)
Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Domaine Rossignol-Trapet, Grand Cru, Chambertin 2009
Lean intense red fruits nose, quite oaky. Fresh, quite concentrated, but a lean refined style though it could use a bit more flesh, weight, and persistence. Drink 2013-2020. (17 points)
£850-1080/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Charles Taylor Wines, London (020 7821 1772), Corney & Barrow, London (0207 265 2430), Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), Private Cellar, Cambridge (01353 721 999)
Jacques Cacheux & Fils, Les Champs d’Argent, Bourgogne Rouge 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Light cherry nose. There’s more weight on the palate, which is rich, ripe, and full-bodied, with light tannins but engaging wildness and vigour. There’s solid fruit here and some structure. Good length. Drink 2012-2018. (17 points)
£120/case (duty paid / ex VAT)
Charles Taylor Wines, London (020 7821 1772)
Domaine Fourrier, Champeaux, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru 2009
Sweet intense raspberrry nose, with purity and poise. Suave, juicy, and elegant, yet concentrated, with excellent balance and reasonable persistence. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
£550-570/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900)
Domaine Michel Gros, Clos des Reas, Vosne Romanee 1er Cru 2009
Opulent nose, raspberries and violets, seductive fruit. Medium-bodied and svelte, concentrated but fresh and, tangy; understated but pure, lively, and persistent. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
POA
Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855)
Thibault Liger-Belair, La Charmotte, Nuits-Saint-Georges 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Firm oaky raspberry nose. Medium-bodied and sleek, delicate and poised, fresh and pretty, but with ample fruit and excellent balance and length thanks to good acidity. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
£294-312/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Lea & Sandeman branches (020 7244 0522), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385)
Dominique Lafon, Volnay 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Perfumed and floral nose, with lifted cherry aromas. Rich, but with supple tannins; accessible but will age as it’s discreetly structured, and has fresh acidity and good length. Note: this is not from Domaine Lafon, but from Lafon’s négociant label. Drink 2012-2018. (17.5 points)
£297/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300)
Domaine Henri Gouges, Nuits-Saint-Georges 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Intense nose of red fruits and violets. Suave, rich, and concentrated, but has robust tannins and plenty of grip for a Village wine. Persistent and worth cellaring. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
£240-270/case (in bond)
Bibendum (020 7449 4120), Flint (020 8777 4737), Genesis (020 7963 9060), Jeroboams (020 7259 6716), Justerini & Brooks (020 7484 6400), OW Loeb (020 7234 0385), Private Cellar, Camb (01353 721999), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065), Uncorked (020 7638 5998)
Domaine Jean Grivot, Grand Cru, Echezeaux 2009
Ripe, generous, cherry and raspberry nose. Lush, juicy, and concentrated, yet quite earthy and grippy; robust, compact and powerful, clearly built to last. Long chewy finish. Drink 2015-2025. (18 points)
Approx. £1100-1200/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, SW1 (0870 900 4300), Bibendum, NW1 (020 7449 4120), Goedhuis, SW8 (020 7793 7900), Justerini & Brooks, SW1 (020 7484 6400), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Domaine Fourrier, Combe aux Moines, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru 2009
Ripe generous red fruits nose, intense and pure. Medium-bodied, intense and elegant, excellent balance, concentrated but poised, showing a light touch. Excellent balance, good length, and a spicy finish. Has complexity. Drink 2013-2022. (18 points)
£550-582/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Domaine Anne Gros, ‘Grand Maupertui’ Grand Cru, Clos de Vougeot 2009
Lean intense strawberry nose, floral too, with great purity. Medium-bodied but concentrated, with fine acidity; sleek and tight, a discreet style for Clos Vougeot, lifted, elegant, and long. Drink 2013-2025. (18 points)
Tbc
Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065), Lea & Sandeman branches (020 7244 0522)
Domaine Meo-Camuzet, les Chaumes, Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru 2009
Sumptuous oaky nose, cherries. Plump, full-bodied, and very concentrated, has shoulders, delicious fruit, spicy and complex. Good length. Drink 2014-2022. (18 points)
approx £875-950/case (in bond)
Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855)
Domaine Pierre Damoy, Grand Cru, Chambertin-Clos de Beze 2009
Lush, voluptuous cherry nose. Very rich and sumptuous, concentrated but not extracted, with very ripe tannins; has ample grip, persistence, and freshness. Drink 2014-2025. (18 points)
£1020-1090/case (in bond)
Flint Wines, London (020 8777 4737), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385), Uncorked, London EC2 (020 7638 5998)
Domaine de Courcel, Grand Clos des Epenots, Pommard 1er Cru 2009
Lush cherry nose, with integrated oak aromas. Broad, fleshy, and opulent, this has characteristic power, moderate acidity, and shows a touch of heat on the finish. But needs time to harmonise. Drink 2015-2025. (17 points)
£474-495/case (in bond)
Genesis Wines, London SW1 (020 7963 9060), Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Domaine des Clos, Vieilles Vignes, Beaune Rouge 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Ripe black cherry nose. Fairly rich, suave, and concentrated. Ripe and fleshy, but with lively cherry fruit and enough acidity to give refreshing length. Drink 2013-2018. (17 points)
£155-168/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Clarion Wines (020 8747 2069)
Thibault Liger-Belair, Grand Cru, Richebourg 2009
Rich powerful cherry nose, immensely fruity. Very rich, plump, and full-bodied, with power and chewy tannins; spicy, assertive, and long. Drink 2015-2030. (18 points)
£1790-1986/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Lea & Sandeman branches (020 7244 0522), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385)
Domaine Faiveley, Grand Cru, Latricieres-Chambertin 2009
Reticent but oaky nose, cherry-scented. Medium-bodied, fresh, and delicate, concentrated but not to excess, with fine acidity and great elegance, even if it lacks a little flesh. Drink 2013-2022. (18 points)
£800-897/case (in bond)
Clarion Wines (020 8747 2069), Private Cellar, Cambridge (01353 721 999), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Domaine Jean Grivot, les Beaumonts, Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru 2009
Ripe lifted red fruits nose, elegant. Suave and concentrated, with super-fine tannins; stylish, intense, and lifted, with persistence and great potential. Drink 2014-2022. (18 points)
Approx. £720-750/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Bouchard Pere & Fils, Clos des Chenes, Volnay 1er Cru 2009
Ripe intense red-fruits nose, showing purity and finesse., Supple juicy, concentrated, and dense, this is structured but has delicious fruit and a limpid texture. Fine length. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
£366-375/case (in bond)
Bordeaux Index, London EC1 (020 7253 2110), Clarion Wines (020 8747 2069)
Domaine Faiveley, les Cazetiers, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru 2009
Red fruits nose, subdued but has purity and finesse. Fairly rich, sleek and elegant, concentrated but fresh, with fine acidity and good length. Drink 2013-2022. (18 points)
£350-435/case (in bond)
Clarion Wines (020 8747 2069), Private Cellar, Cambridge (01353 721 999), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet, Clos des Grandes Vignes, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru 2009
Ripe, generous, cherry and strawberry nose. Fairly rich, rounded and fleshy but quite concentrated, has fine tannins, depth, and length. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
£355-372/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385)
Domaine J Confuron-Cotetidot, Aux Vignes Rondes, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru 2009
Lean intense nose, with aromas of raspberries and violets. Medium-bodied but intense, with generous concentrated fruit balanced by firm tannins. Overall, this is structured and persistent. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
£410-411/case (in bond)
Genesis Wines, London SW1 (020 7963 9060), Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522)
Domaine J Confuron-Cotetidot, Petite Chapelle, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru 2009
Delicate berry nose. Medium-bodied but supple and fleshy, concentrated and backed by fine-grained tannins; pure, stylish, and persistent. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
£450/case (in bond)
Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522)
Domaine de Montille, les Pezerolles, Pommard 1er Cru 2009
Sweet fleshy nose, very ripe red fruits. Rich and suave, full-bodied and concentrated, fine cherry fruit, crunchy texture but well integrated tannins. Stylish and long. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
approx £530-540/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Flint Wines, London (020 8777 4737), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385)
Ghislaine Barthod, les Chatelots, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 2009
Dumb nose. Medium-bodied, fresh but discreet, quite tannic but lively and perky, yet evidently structure and grip. Quite long. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points) (Chambolle-Musigny Fuées equally fine but more forceful; £680/case in bond; Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
£550-595/case (in bond)
Bibendum, London NW1 (020 7449 4120), Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900),
Domaine Pierre Damoy, Clos Tamisot, Gevrey-Chambertin 2009
Sweet generous oaky cherry nose, but not jammy. Supple but concentrated, this offers an opulent hedonistic style but with good acidity on the finish. Drink 2013-2020. (17 points)
£395-420/case (in bond)
Flint Wines, London (020 8777 4737), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385), Uncorked, London EC2 (020 7638 5998)
Domaine Meo-Camuzet, Grand Cru, Clos de Vougeot 2009
Closed nose. Full-bodied and dense, sumptuous fruit but balanced by vigorous tannins and impressive weight and depth. Good length. Drink 2015-2025. (18 points)
£1350-1450/case (in bond)
Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400), Uncorked, London EC2 (020 7638 5998)
Lucie et Auguste Lignier, Grand Cru, Clos de la Roche 2009
Sweet intense cherry nose, quite oaky, but has purity and finesse. Velvety and concentrated, with fine tannins and a seamless texture, elegant acidity, and excellent balance and length. Drink 2014-2025. (18 points)
£990/case (in bond)
Flint Wines, London (020 8777 4737), Uncorked, London EC2 (020 7638 5998)
Lucie et Auguste Lignier, Cuvee Romain Lignier, Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru 2009
Oaky nose, cherry aromas, rich and forthright. Plump, concentrated, and quite dense, with big but ripe tannins, considerable power, and a long spicy finish. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
£650/case (in bond)
Flint Wines, London (020 8777 4737)
Domaine de Montille, Aux Thorey, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru 2009
Ripe fleshy raspberry nose, with considerable charm. Juicy and rich, concentrated but not extracted, luminous, with supple tannins, fine balance, and a lively finish. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
approx £420-438/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Flint Wines, London (020 8777 4737), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855)
Pierre Andre, les Petites Lolieres, Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru 2009
(cask sample) Rich nose, black cherries. Rich, svelte, and concentrated, with a juicy texture and no harsh tannins. Lively, harmonious, well balanced and long. Drink 2012-2018. (17 points)
£398/case (in bond)
www.pierre-andre.com
Domaine Simon Bize, les Vergelesses, Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru 2009
I’m not always a fan of Bize’s wines, but this a respondent Savigny. The nose shows opulent cherry fruit, while the palate is rich and concentrated, with firm tannins. It’s a robust style but not rustic. It has ample personality and vigour, and exhibits force and drive rather than elegance. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points )
£295-335/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385)
Domaine Perrot-Minot, Grand Cru, Mazoyeres-Chambertin 2009
Closed nose. Medium-bodied, concentrated and tightly structured, with fine tannins, but seems rather one-dimensional now. Good acidity and length. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
£1800/case (in bond)
Lea & Sandeman branches (020 7244 0522)
Domaine Camille Giroud, Rognet Grand Cru, Corton 2009
Lean elegant red-fruits nose. Fairly rich and concentrated, with typical Corton tannins and earthiness, but there’s vigur too, and a long finish. Needs time. Drink 2015-2025. (17 points)
£492-510/case (in bond)Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Domaine J Confuron-Cotetidot, Chambolle-Musigny 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Gentle red fruits nose, has charm and warmth. Quite rich but enlivened by crisp acidity; there’s ample concentration here, and firm but not hard tannins, leading to a lively finish that’s well balanced and long. Drink 2013-2020. (17 points)
£275-299/case (in bond)
Flint Wines, London (020 8777 4737), Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385)
Domaine Follin-Arbelet, Grand Cru, Corton-Bressandes 2009
Sweet ripe charming nose, crushed berries. Sweet attack, medium-bodied but quite intense and tight, with good acidity and fine tannins. Long. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
£515/case (in bond)
Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Domaine Robert Chevillon, les Vaucrains, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru 2009
Dense brooding cherry nose. Very rich and dense, powerful and compact, a deep brooding wine but has refined tannins and fine length. Drink 2016-2025. (18 points)
£450-490/case (in bond)
Genesis Wines, London SW1 (020 7963 9060), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Domaine Robert Chevillon, Vieilles Vignes, Nuits-Saint-Georges 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Ripe fleshy nose, cherry and mint. Full-bodied and mouth-filling, concentrated and pungent, but has a light touch and admirable vigour and length. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
£450-490/case (in bond)
Genesis Wines, London SW1 (020 7963 9060), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Dominique Lafon, Lurets, Volnay 1er Cru 2009
Rich spicy cherry nose. Supple and creamy, backed by very ripe tannins, and lively acidity keeps it taut and gives length. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
£510/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300)
Domaine des Perdrix, Nuits-Saint-Georges 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Lush spicy nose, violets, bright and lifted. Quite rich and tannic, with good concentration; tightly wound and lively, this is a remarkably good Village wine, with good acidity and length. Drink 2014-2020. (17.5 points)
£275/case (duty paid / ex VAT)
Charles Taylor Wines, London (020 7821 1772)
Domaine Faiveley, les Fremiets, Volnay 1er Cru 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Sweet and intense red-fruits nose, lifted and elegant. Medium-bodied, but intense, pure, and racy, with delicious vibrancy and pungency of fruit. Good length. Drink 2013-2022. (18 points)
£300-339/case (in bond)
Clarion Wines (020 8747 2069), Private Cellar, Cambridge (01353 721 999), Haynes, Hanson & Clark, Gloucestershire (01451 870808) or London (020 7259 0102)
Sylvain Cathiard, Aux Reignots, Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru 2009
Reticent raspberry nose. Suave, concentrated, and spicy, with fine acidity that keeps the palate elegant and racy. The alcohol is quite high, but there’s sufficient fruit to balance it. Long peppery finish. Drink 2014-2022. (18 points)
approx £960/case (in bond)
Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385)
Domaine Bruno Clair, la Dominode, Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru 2009
Made from very old vines and thus more structured than most Savignys. The nose is opulent and cherry-scented, the palate dense, chewy, and concentrated, with assertive tannins, and a long spicy finish. Drink 2015-2022. (17.5 points)
£375/case (in bond)
Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Grand Cru, Bonnes-Mares 2009
Ripe juicy cherry nose, with youthful charm. Medium-bodied and deceptively supple, as the mid-palate shows firm tannins and intensity of fruit, leading to a long, chewy, fresh finish. Drink 2014-2025. (17.5 points)
£690-800/case (in bond)
Bibendum, London NW1 (020 7449 4120), Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900), Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400), Haynes, Hanson & Clark, Gloucestershire (01451 870808) or London (020 7259 0102)
Domaine de Courcel, les Fremiers, Pommard 1er Cru 2009
Sweet intense oaky nose. Full-bodied and concentrated, this has a voluptuousness that’s at war with firm assertive tannins; but it’s not tough and there is good length. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
£395-399/case (in bond)
Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Grand Cru, Chambertin-Clos de Beze 2009
Ripe but delicate raspberry nose. An unusually elegant version, med-bodied but concentrated, sleek and stylish, with fine acidity and tannin. Fine potential. Drink 2013-2025.(18 points)
£825-920/case (in bond)
Bibendum, London NW1 (020 7449 4120), Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900), Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Bertrand Ambroise, les Vaucrains, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru 2009
Sweet intense oaky nose, raspberry coulis and vanilla. Firm and tannic, but not too extracted, has density and weight. Robust and spicy, vigorous and long. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
£340/case (duty paid / ex VAT)
Charles Taylor Wines, London (020 7821 1772)
Domaine Sylvie Esmonin, Gevrey-Chambertin 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Muted cherry nose. Juicy, rounded, and accessible but has plenty of spice and tannic grip. Concentrated and robust, and while low on finesse, has Gevrey typicity and good length. Drink 2012-2018. (17.5 points)
£225/case (in bond)
Genesis Wines, London SW1 (020 7963 9060)
Domaine Dujac, Morey-Saint-Denin 2009
Fresh, crisp, lifted red-fruits nose. Medium-bodied, silky, and stylish; it’s quite concentrated, with light tannins, fresh and balanced. Quite long. Drink 2012-2017. (17 points)
£240-270/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065), Uncorked, London EC2 (020 7638 5998)
Domaine Jean Grivot, Grand Cru, Clos de Vougeot 2009
Sweet generous cherry and raspberry nose, with hints of mokka. Rich and concentrated, tannic but not extracted, spicy and assertive but well balanced and long. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
£792-900/case (in bond)
John Armit (020 7908 0655), Berry Bros & Rudd (0870 900 4300), Bibendum (020 7449 4120), Goedhuis (020 7793 7900), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065), Justerini & Brooks (020 7484 6400), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), Uncorked (020 7638 5998)
Domaine Bruno Clair, Clos Saint-Jacques, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru 2009
Sweet elegant perfumed nose, very refined. Rich, concentrated, and sleek, tightly structured but elegant and pure, with firm but not tough tannins. Good length. Drink 2014-2025. (18 points)
£895/case (in bond)
Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Masion Champy, Chorey-les-Beaune 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Fresh delicate raspberry nose. Medium-bodied, supple, and fresh, an easygoing style with ample fruit and freshness, for drinking young. Drink 2011-2014. (16.5 points)
£116.50/case (in bond)
Haynes, Hanson & Clark, Gloucestershire (01451 870808) or London (020 7259 0102)
Comte Armand, Clos des Epeneaux, Pommard 1er Cru 2009
Robust cherry nose. Rich, plump, and full-bodied, fleshy and generous, chewy and spicy yet not too extracted. Long. Drink 2015-2028. (17.5 points)
approx £570-597/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux, Chambolle-Musigny 2009
Sumptuous raspberry and violets nose, has power and lift. Rich and supple, with delicious fruit; a discreet style that has a light touch but no lack of concentration or length. Drink 2012-2022. (17.5 points)
approx £360/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Domaine Faiveley, Clos des Cortons Grand Cru, Corton 2009
Pure red fruits nose, oaky and stylish. Firm, full-bodied, and concentrated, robust but not hard and extracted; despite moderate acidity, this has considerable power. Good length. Drink 2014-2022. (18 points)
£570-780/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Clarion Wines (020 8747 2069), Haynes, Hanson & Clark, Glos (01451 870808) or London (020 7259 0102), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Domaine de l’Arlot, Clos des Forets Saint-Georges, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru 2009
Robust black cherry nose. Rich and flamboyant, with lavish fruit and fine acidity. Dramatic and vigorous, with a restrained toastiness and firm but ripe tannins. Long and built to last. Drink 2015-2028. (17.5 points)
approx £425-495/case (in bond)
Corney & Barrow, London (0207 265 2430), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), Private Cellar, Cambridge (01353 721 999), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Domaine Bruno Clavelier, La Combe Brulee, Vosne-Romanee 2009
Closed nose, but the palate is fresh, zesty, and brisk, though with ample concentration; lively, balanced, and invigorating. Drink 2013-2018. (17 points)
£373-379/case (in bond)
OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Domaine de l’Arlot, Clos de l’Arlot, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru 2009
Lean, pure, red berry nose. Medium-bodied, supple, and silky, with discreet tannins and good acidity. Lean and pungent, and a classic expression of this vineyard. Good length and will age well. Drink 2012-2022. (17.5 points)
approx £415-495/case (in bond)
Corney & Barrow, London (0207 265 2430), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), Private Cellar, Cambridge (01353 721 999), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Domaine Bruno Clair, Grand Cru, Chambertin-Clos de Beze 2009
Lifted, perfumed, raspberry and redcurrant nose. Rich but not extracted, with firm acidity and ripe tannins; concentrated, vigorous, and long. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
£1200/case (in bond)
Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux, Bourgogne Rouge 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Subdued cherry aromas. Medium-bodied, juicy and fleshy, supple texture but concentrated and stylish, with fine acidity and good length. Drink 2011-2016. (17 points)
£140/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Clarion Wines (020 8747 2069), Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), Private Cellar, Camb (01353 721 999), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Chanson Pere et Fils, les Vergelesses, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Rich oaky nose, with sumptuous fruit. Rich broad, tannic, and concentrated, slightly rustic but has ample fruit and structure. Spicy and long, and will mellow after more bottle-age. Drink 2012-2018. (17 points)
£166.087/case (duty paid / ex VAT)
Mentzendorff, London SE1 (020 7840 3600)
Sylvain Cathiard, En Orveaux, Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru 2009
Intense oaky nose, tight and lifted, with cherry aromas. Very rich, dense, and concentrated, tight and powerful, with impressive weight of fruit compensating for the slightly low acidity. Good length. Drink 2015-2025. (17.5 points)
approx £900-960/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385)
Domaine Sylvie Esmonin, Clos Saint-Jacques, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru 2009
Lively if slightly confected raspberry nose. Full-bodied, juicy, and opulent; lively and peppery but lacks some finesse. Quite long. Drink 2014-2020. (17.5 points)
£560-660/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Genesis Wines, London SW1 (020 7963 9060)
Domaine Marquis d’Angerville, Fremiets, Volnay 1er Cru 2009
Fresh lively raspberry nose, has purity. Medium-bodied, fresh, and lively, but it’s also concentrated and tight, with purity and fine tannins. Good length. Drink 2013-2022. (17.5 points)
£420/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Corney & Barrow, London (0207 265 2430), Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385)
Domaine Chandon de Briailles, Ile de Vergelesses, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Sweet intense cherry nose. Graceful and fresh, though has sufficient tannins to support the sweet ripe fruit and give a long peppery finish. Drink 2012-2018. (17 points)
approx £185-245/case (in bond)
Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), Haynes, Hanson & Clark, Gloucestershire (01451 870808) or London (020 7259 0102), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522)
Domaine Amiot-Servelle, Les Charmes, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 2009
Ripe raspberry and floral nose, has finesse. A robust wine, concentrated and with firm tannins, giving plenty of grip and structure, but there’s bright acidity on the long finish. Drink 2014-2020. (17.5 points)
£420/case (duty paid / ex VAT)
Charles Taylor Wines, London (020 7821 1772)
Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanee 2009
Rich cherry nose. Bright attack, concentrated, with surprisingly high acidity and a curiously untamed character that’s very individual. Long. Drink 2014-2020. (17.5 points)
approx £420/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385)
Domaine J Confuron-Cotetidot, Grand Cru, Charmes-Chambertin 2009
Super-ripe raspberry nose, opulent but not jammy. Juicy and concentrated but the tannins are dense and imposing; quite a powerful wine but it also has purity, drive, and length. Drink 2015-2025. (18 points)
£738/case (in bond)
Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522)
Domaine Simon Bize, les Serpentieres, Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru 2009
Firm cherry nose, robust. Dense, full-bodied, and concentrated, with grip and spice; a robust style with a long chewy finish. Drink 2013-2020. (17 points)
£285-335/case (in bond)
Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385)
Sylvain Cathiard, les Malconsorts, Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru 2009
Spicy oaky nose with lifted red-fruits aromas. Rich and suave, fleshy and concentrated, this has depth and weight without being heavy-handed or extracted. Spicy, nuanced, and long. Drink 2015-2030. (18 points)
approx £1290-1390/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385)
Albert Bichot, Grand Cru, Mazis-Chambertin 2009
Closed nose. Suave, velvety, and concentrated, but also has some acidity and lift, though not very nuanced and a bit monolithic. Needs time to harmonise. Drink 2015-2015. (17.5 points)
£935/case (in bond)
Genesis Wines, London SW1 (020 7963 9060)
Domaine Arlaud, Roncevie, Bourgogne Rouge 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Fresh red-fruits nose. Medium-bodied, supple and juicy, forward and accessible but has light tannins and good acidity, giving balance and persistence. Drink 2011-2015. (16.5 points)
£108-112/case (in bond)
Flint Wines, London (020 8777 4737), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385), Uncorked, London EC2 (020 7638 5998)
Domaine des Lambrays, les Loups, Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru 2009
Intense, lifted, raspberry nose, quite oaky. Rich, broad, and juicy, concentrated and sleekly textured, with fine acidity and length. The second wine of Clos des Lambrays. Drink 2013-2020. (17 points)
£495-540/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, SW1 (0870 900 4300), Flint Wines (020 8777 4737), Goedhuis, SW8 (020 7793 7900), Haynes, Hanson & Clark, Glos (01451 870808) & London (020 7259 0102), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065), OW Loeb, SE1 (020 7234 0385), Uncorked, EC2 (020 7638
Bouchard Pere & Fils, Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus, Beaune-Greves 1er Cru 2009
Lean tangy redcurranty nose. Suave and silky, but concentrated and shows lavish fruit, supported by ample tannic backbone and grip; good acidity and length. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
£552-615/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Bordeaux Index, London EC1 (020 7253 2110), Clarion Wines (020 8747 2069)
Henri Boillot, les Caillerets, Volnay 1er Cru 2009
Muted cherry nose. Medium-bodied, delicate and lifted by quite high acidity. Stylish and linear, and it will take time show complexity. Quite long. Drink 2013-2020. (17 points)
£543/case (in bond)
Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522)
Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux, Grand Cru, Clos de Vougeot 2009
Spicy nose, super-ripe, with aromas of black and red berries. Full-bodied and concentrated, with lavish fruit and very ripe tannins. Close to jammy but has good length. Drink 2014-2025. (17.5 points)
approx £1120/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Clarion Wines (020 8747 2069), Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Sylvain Cathiard, les Murgers, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru 2009
Closed nose. Rich and bold, concentrated and spicy, with fine acidity that keeps it racy and vigorous. Long peppery finish. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
approx £900-960/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385)
Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux, Grand Cru, Latricieres-Chambertin 2009
Voluptuous red fruits nose. Rich, suave, and fleshy, but it’s also concentrated and dense, with good depth of fruit. Spicy, vigorous, well balanced, and long. Drink 2014-2025. (17.5 points)
approx £1600/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Clarion Wines (020 8747 2069), Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Domaine Robert Chevillon, les Cailles, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru 2009
Ripe fleshy nose, cherry and mint. Full-bodied and mouth-filling, concentrated and pungent, but has a light touch and admirable vigour and length. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
£450-490/case (in bond)
Genesis Wines, London SW1 (020 7963 9060), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Domaine J Confuron-Cotetidot, Grand Cru, Clos de Vougeot 2009
Rich powerful cherry nose. Dense and concentrated, evidently youthful, but has integrated tannins, plenty of spice and vigour, and good acidity and length. Drink 2014- 2025. (17.5 points)
£738-850/case (in bond)
Flint Wines, London (020 8777 4737), Lea & Sandeman, branches (020 7244 0522)
Thibault Liger-Belair, les Saint-Georges, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru 2009
Firm oaky nose, cherry aromas. Fine attack that’s fresh, concentrated, and lively, with fine acidity to balance the firm tannin, it’s robust but not extracted, and has a discreet power – yet the 14.8% alcohol is barely detectable. Drink 2015-2028. (18 points)
£550-594/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Lea & Sandeman branches (020 7244 0522), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385)
Louis Jadot, Grand Cru, Clos Saint-Denis 2009
Sweet oaky raspberry nose, very ripe. Quite rich but supple, concentrated with ripe tannins and good acidity that lifts the palate; not very expressive now, but has persistence. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
£1560/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300)
Louis Latour, Grand Cru, Corton-Grancey 2009
Reticent oaky cherry nose. Has none of the earthiness of much Corton, but medium-bodied, fresh, and juicy, with bright, concentrated fruit and considerable charm and finesse. Good length. Drink 2014-2022. (18 points)
£556.59/case (duty paid / ex VAT)
Louis Latour, London W1 (020 7409 7276)
Louis Latour, En Chevret, Volnay 1er Cru 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Ripe nose of cherries and a whiff of bubblegum. Juicy, concentrated, and tannic, with rude vigour and plenty of spice; long peppery finish. Drink 2013-2020. (17 points)
£304/case (duty paid / ex VAT)
Louis Latour, London W1 (020 7409 7276)
Thibault Liger-Belair, Grand Cru, Clos de Vougeot 2009
Lush cherry nose. Rich, broad, and concentrated, with robust tannins and ample vigour. Not very expressive now, but needs time. Good length. Drink 2015-2025. (17.5 points)
£780/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300)
Domaine Arlaud, les Ruchots, Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru 2009
(cask sample) Ripe fleshy red fruits nose, with glossy oak. Quite rich and concentrated, juicy and plump, accessible but has integrated tannins and lively acidity that gives a long finish. Drink 2012-2020. (17 points)
£365-420/case (in bond)
Flint Wines, London (020 8777 4737), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385), Uncorked, London EC2 (020 7638 5998)
Domaine Fourrier, Clos Saint-Jacques, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru 2009
Crushed berry nose, fresh and vibrant. Medium-bodied but intense and lively; fine acidity lifts the palate, which is concentrated and stylish, spicy and long. Drink 2013-2022. (18 points)
£890-1100/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Louis Latour, ‘Cuvee Heritiers’ Grand Cru, Chambertin 2009
Fresh cherry and strawberry nose. Juicy, sleek, and velvety, with concentration and discreet tannins, though not extracted; the mid-palate shows considerable lift and finesse, but lacks some nuance. Long. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
£961.29/case (duty paid / ex VAT)
Louis Latour, London W1 (020 7409 7276)
Ghislaine Barthod, les Cras, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 2009
Subdued nose. Fairly rich, tannic, and concentrated, spicy and chewy, assertive for Chambolle, with grip and structure. Long. Drink 2014-2022. (18 points)
approx £575-620/case (in bond)
Bibendum, London NW1 (020 7449 4120), Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855)
Ghislaine Barthod, Bourgogne Rouge 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) 1Fresh lively red-fruits nose. Medium-bodied but quite tannic and concentrated, has surprising grip for Bourgogne, pungent and lively. Quite long. Drink 2012-2018. (16.5 points)
approx £160-168/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Bibendum, London NW1 (020 7449 4120), Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), Uncorked, London EC2 (020 7638 5998)
Domaine Lamarche, Grand Cru, Clos de Vougeot 2009
Closed nose. Fresh yet concentrated, with firm tannins, but shows a slight rusticity. Long and needs time. Drink 2015-2022. (17 points)
£700-780/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Domaine Marquis d’Angerville, Clos des Ducs, Volnay 1er Cru 2009
Muted red-fruits nose. Medium-bodied, fresh, and limpid, with charm, purity, finesse, and intensity. Tight and elegant, this has length and ageability. Drink 2014-2022. (18 points)
£725-750/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Charles Taylor Wines, London (020 7821 1772), Corney & Barrow, London (0207 265 2430), Jeroboams (020 7259 6716), Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385)
Domaine Perrot-Minot, les Beaux Monts, Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru 2009
Sweet opulent nose, aromas of red fruits and violets. Medium-bodied, with a silky texture balanced by discreet tannins, has intensity and lift. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
£858/case (in bond)
Lea & Sandeman branches (020 7244 0522)
Domaine des Perdrix, Aux Perdrix, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru 2009
Splendid rich nose, cherry fruit, both oaky and floral. Full-bodied, and concentrated, with fine acidity and marked spiciness, and intense fruit sweetness on the long finish, Drink 2014-2022. (18 points)
£415/case (duty paid / ex VAT)
Charles Taylor Wines, London (020 7821 1772)
Fernand et Laurent Pillot, Rugiens, Pommard 1er Cru 2009
Sweet charming raspberry nose. Medium-bodied, fresh, and lively, with light tannins, resulting in charm rather than weight though there’s no lack of structure or length. Drink 2013-2020. (17 points)
£327/case (in bond)
Lea & Sandeman branches (020 7244 0522)
Sylvain Pataille, Les Langeroies, Marsannay 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Fresh nose of crushed red fruits, summer pudding. Rich, suave, and concentration, with ripe tannins and plenty of force. Long vigorous finish. Drink 2013-2018. (17 points)
£165/case (in bond)
OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385)
Domaine Michele et Patrice Rion, Clos Saint-Marc, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru 2009
Rich smoky cherry nose, has vibrancy. Very ripe but not jammy, full-bodied and concentrated, but has ample tannic grip. Spicy and long. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
£498/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300)
Domaine Perrot-Minot, Grand Cru, Chambertin-Clos de Beze 2009
Rich vigorous cherry nose. Very rich, full-bodied, mouth-filling and weighty, but also spicy, vigorous, and long. Drink 2015-2025. (17.5 points)
£2046/case (in bond)
Lea & Sandeman branches (020 7244 0522)
Domaine des Lambrays, Grand Cru, Clos des Lambrays 2009
Sweet intense raspberry nose, has finesse. Medium-bodied and understated now, graceful and elegant, with fine tannins, and a lively, peppery, long finish. Drink 2014-2025.(17.5 points)
Approx. £795-930/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd (0870 900 4300), Flint (020 8777 4737), Goedhuis (020 7793 7900), Haynes, Hanson & Clark, (020 7259 0102), Jeroboams (020 7259 6716) Justerini & Brooks (020 7484 6400) Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065), Lay & Wheeler (0845 330 1855), Lea & Sandeman branches (020 7244 0522), Uncorked, London EC2 (020 7638 5998)
Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg, les Chaignots, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru 2009
Rich cherry nose, with abundant fruit. Lush and suave, concentrated but not extracted, has solid fruit but energy and length too. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
Approx. £432-456/case (in bond)
Haynes, Hanson & Clark, London (020 7259 0102), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), Lea & Sandeman branches (020 7244 0522), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385)
Domaine Camille Giroud, le Croix Moines, Maranges 1er Cru 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Very ripe, opulent cherry nose. Full-bodied, fashioned in a ripe dense style that’s slightly baked but has attack, vigour, and persistence. Drink 2012-2018. (17 points)
£168-174/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065)
Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg, Vosne-Romanee 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Ripe oaky nose, upfront cherry fruit. Firm and concentrated, with good acidity and a crackle of spice. Has freshness, zest, and good length. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
Approx. £306-325/case (in bond)
Haynes, Hanson & Clark, London (020 7259 0102), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), Lea & Sandeman branches (020 7244 0522), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385)
Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg, Grand Cru, Echezeaux 2009
Svelte raspberry nose, very stylish. Medium-bodied, sleek and stylish thanks to racy acidity, has purity and drive though very youthful. Long. Drink 2014-2022. (18 points)
Approx. £760-840/case (in bond)
Haynes, Hanson & Clark, London (020 7259 0102), Howard Ripley (020 8877 3065), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855), Lea & Sandeman branches (020 7244 0522), OW Loeb & Co, London SE1 (020 7234 0385)
Domaine Chantal Remy, Grand Cru, Clos de la Roche 2009
Ripe delicate red-fruits nose. Medium-bodied, fresh and zesty though quite tannic and robust on the finish, which is spicy and long. Drink 2013-2022. (17.5 points)
£895/case (in bond)
Justerini & Brooks, London SW1 (020 7484 6400)
Maison Roche de Bellene, Grand Cru, Chambertin 2009
Intense, ripe, raspberry nose, with vanilla scents. Full-bodied and mouth-filling, with good depth of fruit and deft tannins; not very nuanced now but youthful. Good length. Drink 2014-2022. (17.5 points)
Approx. £1250-1500/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855)
Domaine Joseph Voillot, les Caillerets, Volnay 1er Cru 2009
Charming fresh crushed berry nose. Medium-bodied, silky in texture yet quite tannic; the finish is fresh and balanced and persistent Drink 2013-2010. (17.5 points)
£380/case (in bond)
Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900)
Domaine Joseph Voillot, les Champans, Volnay 1er Cru 2009
Closed nose. Supple and velvety, elegant and seamless, with fine tannins; intense, spicy, and long. Drink 2013-2010. (18 points)
£380/case (in bond)
Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900)
Domaine de la Vougeraie, Les Evocelles, Gevrey-Chambertin 2009
(GOOD VALUE CHOICE) Delicate and floral raspberry nose. Medium-bodied, but bright and fresh, with lively acidity, and light tannins to give it grip and balance. Quite long. Drink 2012-2018. (17 points)
£270/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300)
Domaine Nicolas Rossignol, les Chanlins, Pommard 1er Cru 2009
Very ripe but slightly confected nose. Good attack, which is fresher than the nose, so the wine has lift and verve as well as robust tannins. Quite long. Pricy. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
£615/case (in bond)
Genesis Wines, London SW1 (020 7963 9060)
Domaine des Varoilles, Clos des Varoilles, Monopole, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru 2009
Rich heady cherry nose, vibrant and fruity. Rich and suave on the attack, but this also has weight and density and ample tannins, giving grip and structure and a long, spicy finish. Drink 2013-2022. (17.5 points)
£420/case (in bond)
Corney & Barrow, London (0207 265 2430)
Domaine des Varoilles, Grand Cru, Charmes-Chambertin 2009
Lush, heady oaky nose, raspberry coulis, cloves. Very rich and concentrated, tight and lively, complex and harmonious, with a suave texture and delicious fruit. Long. Drink 2013-2022. (18 points)
£650/case (in bond)
Corney & Barrow, London (0207 265 2430)
Domaine Trapet, Grand Cru, Latricieres-Chambertin 2009
An exercise in finesse, with sweet pure raspberry aromas, and a palate this is only medium-bodied, but silk and concentrated and tight. The acidity is perfectly judged and the finish long and fresh. Delightful. Drink 2013-2022. (18 points) [At present this shows better than the pricier Chambertin; 17.5 points; Corney & Barrow £1325/case IB]
£895/case (in bond)
Corney & Barrow, London (0207 265 2430)
Domaine Rossignol-Trapet, Grand Cru, Chapelle-Chambertin 2009
Closed nose. Although only medium-bodied, this is juicy and concentrated, with a core of sweet fruit, and moderate acidity and length. Drink 2013-2020. (17 points)
£615-732/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300), Charles Taylor Wines, London (020 7821 1772), Corney & Barrow, London (0207 265 2430), Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716)
Maison Roche de Bellene, Grand Cru, Bonnes-Mares 2009
Delicate raspberry and mint nose. Medium-bodied and supple, discreet and understated; silky, poised, and long. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
approx. £1130-1250/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900), Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855)
Domaine de la Vougeraie, Grand Cru, Charmes-Chambertin 2009
Ripe fleshy cherry nose. Broad, full-bodied, and concentrated, quite oaky and spicy, and discreetly structured, with good length. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
£720/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300)
Maison Roche de Bellene, Grand Cru, Clos de la Roche 2009
Zesty raspberry nose. Medium-bodied, fresh, and delicate, showing charm rather than weight, stylish and poised, with good acidity and length. Drink 2013-2020. (17.5 points)
Approx. £650-760/case (in bond)
John Armit Wines, London W11 (020 7908 0655), Bibendum, London NW1 (020 7449 4120), Goedhuis, London SW8 (020 7793 7900), Jeroboams branches (020 7259 6716), Lay & Wheeler, Essex (0845 330 1855)
Domaine de la Vougeraie, Grand Cru, Bonnes-Mares 2009
Sweet delicate nose, crunchy red fruits. Rich, sleek, and concentrated, tightly structured with fine-grained tannins, has vigour, complexity, and length. Drink 2013-2022. (17.5 points)
£900/case (in bond)
Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (0870 900 4300)
Written by Stephen Brook
