Decanter contributors, staff and DWWA Regional Chairs nominated their top three stand-out bottles of 2023, which were then tasted blind and scored by an expert panel to determine the best and most exciting wines of 2023.
Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for all 51 'classic' red, white, orange and rosé wines spanning still, sparkling, sweet and fortified styles that all scored 90 points or more.
Wines are listed in style order by colour and score.
Producer
Country
Score
Notes
Louis Roederer, Collection 243,
France
95
Founded in 1776, Louis Roederer is the largest family-managed Champagne house, today run by seventh-generation Frédéric Rouzaud, with wines made since 1989 by chef de cave Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon. Launching with 241 in 2021, Collection replaced Brut Premier as Louis Roederer’s multi-vintage cuvée, the collection number allowing consumers to identify the vintage of the base wine so they can choose their preferred level of youth or maturity. Collection 243 is based on the 2018 vintage, incorporating 31% of wine from a perpetual reserve that was started in 2012, as well as 10% from oak-aged reserve wines from vintages between 2009 and 2017. A blend of 42% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 18% Pinot Meunier with a dosage of 8g/L, a quarter of the wine underwent malolactic fermentation. Tina Gellie: Great mousse and vibrant aromas of crunchy, fresh green apple, then a palate of more tangy apple and lemongrass riffs, digestive biscuit nuttiness and a wonderful chalky texture. Elegant, complex and impossible not to like. Anne Krebiehl MW: Subtle autolysis on the nose, lemony hints, fine mousse on a bright, balanced body. Beautifully clean and rounded while staying elegant and bright. Michaela Morris: An elegant and precise nose exudes hints of pie crust, chalky minerals and pure citrus. Delicate and refined with depth and layers. Truly classic and gorgeously attractive, with telltale chalkiness at the fore. What more could you want? Nominated by Simon Field MW.
Philipponnat, Royale Réserve Brut,
France
94
A distinctly red-berry nose – all red currants and small forest fruit. Red Delicious apple has such a telltale Pinot scent. The palate has pure, bright apple fruit, a lemony verve, and a very delicate mousse backed by gently salty autolysis. Vanilla oak comes through, like the custard on an apple crumble, carrying freshness and flavour until the lingering finish. Nominated by Tom Hewson.
The Hilt, Estate Sparkling,
USA
2016
94
Gorgeous autolysis, lemon shortbread and cream. There is an assertive backbone and structure with evolving flavours of baked orchard fruit. The bubbles bring freshness. Perky, green apple and zingy lemon with a mineral edge. Super-racy, yet this is more vinous than sparkling and almost off-the-beaten track rather than classical. A positively racy finish is classy indeed. Nominated by J’nai Gaither.
No1 Family Estate, No1 Reserve,
New Zealand
92
Ripeness hits home here. Elegant yet ripe apple and candied lemon; savoury apple and baked pear, then honey and acacia. Equally expressive on the palate, the mousse sprightly. Bright and clean, a taut, brisk wine with style. Really well made and should age well. Nominated by Cameron Douglas MS.
AT Roca, Finca Els Gorgs Clàssic Penedès,
Spain
2013
91
Very toasty, grilled sweet herbs with lots of vanilla sweetness. Very honeyed, fragrant nose, showing lots of ripeness and intense notes of candied tangerine. Fresh, with plenty of acid and liveliness to help it age further. People who like mature fizz will like this. Lovely umami finish, dry. Nominated by Ines Salpico.
Chapel Down, Kit's Coty Blanc de Blancs Brut, Kent,
United Kingdom
2017
91
Fresh, apple skin, racy acidity, brisk, clean, floral, very English. Slightly frothy mousse, but with lovely, bright freshness. Fine-boned and with good grip. Should age well. Very opulent, dry and chalky. Nominated by Sylvia Wu.
Pol Roger, Sir Winston Churchill,
France
2015
91
Subtle and restrained pastry nuances with a hint of mushroom. Lots of seriousness and generosity of fruit but in a more restrained, quiet style. Gentle autolysis with mellow apple flesh and some earthiness, bright and classic. Elegant, with reserve wine complexity. Brisk on the finish with a nougat edge. Great stuff. Nominated by Sonja van Praag.
Gusbourne, Rosé Brut,
United Kingdom
2018
91
Attractive and appealing scents of white and redcurrant give cool freshness. Red berries and hedgerow fruits backed by rounded, generous apple flavours. Mousse is frothy and bold, pure and animating, pristine and brisk. There is a joyful lightness on the palate, ultimately refreshing. Long. Pretty classy. Nominated by Roger Jones.
Gaia, Thalassitis, Santorini,
Greece
2022
95
Gaia Estate is one of the pioneers of the modern Greek wine revolution, founded on the Aegean island of Santorini in 1994 by winemakers Leon Karatsalos and Yiannis Paraskevopoulos (who also opened a winery in Nemea, on the mainland, in 1997). Made since the island winery’s inception, Thalassitis challenged the standards for dry Greek wine, and today remains one of the standard-bearers of the indigenous Assyrtiko grape. Fruit for this wine is sourced from very low-yielding, self-rooted 80-year-old vines on volcanic slopes of up to 250m in Episkopi, Akrotiri and Pyrgos. It is unoaked to accentuate the fruit purity and distinctive minerality, sees no malolactic fermentation in order to retain freshness, and is left on lees for four months with regular stirring to add texture and complexity. Tina Gellie: Minerals galore. Like the smell of rain, the taste of wet slate, with a briny oyster shell tang. When the fruit shows through it is all fresh lemon juice – crisp, bright and bitey. Takes you straight to Greece and the sea and salty air – just needs sun and some grilled octopus. Anne Krebiehl MW: Slightly lemony, bright, but also with a waxy edge lending richness and texture to a salty, slender, stony wine. Michaela Morris :A slightly wild leesy funkiness to the aromas, yet clean and brilliantly unoaked. Fruit purity shows through. The palate is confident with lemon pith, green scrubby herbs and stone. Very steely, stately acidity with a belting finish. Nominated by Shana Clarke.
Battenfeld-Spanier, CO Liquid Earth Riesling,
Germany
2018
94
Subtle chervil and yarrow with a Riesling bite, brisk and lactic nose. So chalky, so stony, so profound, great concentration and complexity. Lean and light, with pointed minerality. Delicious stuff. Nominated by Caro Maurer MW.
Trimbach, Clos Ste Hune Riesling,
France
2016
94
A gentle nose with a kaleidoscope of citrus, stone, mineral and fruit blossom. Pure and focused palate, showing savoury, textural complexity. Creamy and round, feeling almost Champagne-like in its toasty, mature refinement. Lovely and mouthfilling, with length and texture. Great stuff. Nominated by Michael Hill Smith MW.
Pazo Señorans, Albariño,
Spain
2022
93
Pretty peach and honey scents seduce. Really briney with peach juice, lovely richness: a great example of Albariño. Puts you on assured footing of place. The palate is steely – classically so. Lemon purity and salty stoniness are very appetising and tangy. Nominated by Fiona Beckett.
Penfolds, Yattarna Bin 144 Chardonnay,
Australia
2021
93
Decidedly struck-match and flint nose, yet all that stone and intense lemon behind it. Lots of corn husk and maize meal aromas, tension and a vein of lemon freshness throughout. Pithy undertone and simmering depth. Very tight and youthful now, needs some time. Nominated by David Sly.
Emile Beyer, Riesling Grand Cru Eichberg,
France
2020
92
Baked apple and camomile aromas on the nose are very fragrant and a bit oxidative with a marzipan edge. A lot is happening on the palate, both texturally and flavour-wise. The wine has an undeniably racy backbone. Lime curd and nougat with a creamy depth begs yet another sip. Nominated by Thierry Meyer.
Hamilton Russell, Chardonnay, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley,
South Africa
2021
92
Pristine, clean and vibrant, crisp apples, fresh peaches and lemon. Restrained but complex, the oak doesn't override, leaving pure fruit at the core. Lovely brightness and freshness with some evolution. A pithy, bright verve draws out leesy creaminess on the finish. Very handsome wine. Nominated by Gabriela Colotto.
Errazuriz, Las Pizarras Chardonnay, Aconcagua Costa,
Chile
2021
91
Joyful and exuberant fruit with oak lending a nutty component. Elegant and slightly lactic on the nose with a whack of reduction. On the palate, the fruit is textured, tangy, lovely and slender. Moderate oak with great acid and juicy apple. Warming on the finish. Nominated by Amanda Barnes.
Bodegas de la Marquesa, Valserrano Gran Reserva,
Spain
2017
90
Intensely nutty with grilled herb and tropical fruit overtones. Emollient and rich, clearly well made, but with a divisive style. Full and broad, the palate is melted with vanilla and vanilla-poached nectarines. Oaky and drying wood character on the finish. Nominated by Amy Wislocki.
Káli Kövek, Köveskál Olaszrizling, Káli,
Hungary
2022
90
Subtle and quiet nose with juicy, ripe, fresh pears and delicate sweetness. Citrus lemon and wet pebble, very youthful, lovely leesy core, very well put together. Tangy and perky lemon posset creaminess on the finish. Nominated by Darrel Joseph.
Kanonkop, Cabernet Sauvignon, Simonsberg,
South Africa
2019
97
In 2023, Kanonkop (owned by the fourth generation of the founding family, brothers Johann and Paul Kriege) celebrated 50 years of wine; the inaugural release being the 1973 vintage of this Cabernet Sauvignon. Joining in 2002, Abrie Beeslaar soon became only the third winemaker in the farm’s history, replacing Beyers Truter (1981-2003) who followed Kanonkop’s first official winemaker Jan Boland Coetzee (1968-1981). Of the estate’s 95ha of mainly dry-farmed vines, 35% are Cabernet Sauvignon, averaging 30 years, from Simonsberg in Stellenbosch, used for this varietal cuvée as well as Kanonkop’s flagship Paul Sauer Bordeaux blend. This 2019 was fermented in open-top concrete vessels then aged for 24 months in French oak barrels, 50% new and 50% second fill. Tina Gellie: Gorgeously seductive with its satin mouthfeel, silky tannins and flavours of smoked meat, saddle leather, green olives, plum skin sappiness and black fruit richness. Like diving into a cool, deep, dark pool. Beautiful freshness, length and composure – pitch perfect for drinking now but will age very well. What a belter. Anne Krebiehl MW: Smoke and earth, tobacco, the palate is dense but super-elegant, unravels like silk. Fine tannin, savoury umami edges, yet such salty, gorgeously ripe fruit. Altogether brilliant, with a lovely, serene balance – the ideal of proportions. Michaela Morris: Aromas are open, a bit flinty, but the palate is where it’s all happening: starts seductive but finishes serious, in the best possible way. Still needs time. The nice, savoury herbal character promises much. Nominated by Malu Lambert.
Château Brane-Cantenac, , Margaux (2ème Cru Classé),
France
2016
96
Captivating cedar, tobacco and dark blackcurrant fruit, sinewy and taut. The palate is still firm and rigid, quite stately in fact, with a ton of savoury structure. Elegant structure with a tannic crunch. A great one to squirrel away and watch develop further. Deep, dark, bramble fruit with a slick lick of oak, but it’s holding everything in reserve. Nominated by Ch'ng Poh Tiong.
Catena Zapata, Nicolás Catena Zapata,
Argentina
2019
95
Restrained and elegant with a minty coolness – classy and characterful. Lactic, very dense with bay leaf and sage savouriness, well-integrated oak. Poised, Bordeaux-like in structure, but with the benefit of beautifully ripe blue and purple berry fruit. Firm tannic grip, bright acidity and chalky textural chew. Polished and impressive but not showy or overdone. Nominated by Julie Sheppard.
Château Beau-Site, St-Estèphe,
France
2019
95
Sophisticated oak-led nose exhibits roasted coffee and grilled meat. Very brooding, simmering with latent power with generous fruit expression. Taut, structured, sinewy and a little dry, with chewy liquorice, tar and coffee notes alongside black fruit. Elegant complexity with a liquorice finish. Nominated by Michael Denton.
Grattamacco, Bolgheri (Superiore),
Italy
2019
95
A fresh nose of grilled herbs and evocative oily green character. Olive and bay leaf, rosemary, an inkling of thyme. Dense and full, very generous, opulent fresh blackberry, black olive, coffee and rich red berry compote with savoury oak notes. Warm on the finish. Magnificent in stature, polish and plushness, but it needs time. Nominated by James Button.
Massolino, Parafada, Barolo,
Italy
2019
95
Discreet and youthful, waiting to express all of its earthy charms. Subtly perfumed, with slight florals and expected brisk acidity. Firmly structured, but has ample fruit concentration. Classic style with sour cherry flesh, mineral cherry stone and oak presence. Young, with time on its hands. Nominated by Michaela Morris.
Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan,
France
2019
94
Pretty nose of florals and red berries with a back note of ripe green herb. Subtle tar, lovely elegance, dense but ripe tannin, structure, and flow. The palate is quite austere and youthful, needs time to relax. Nothing is overdone, and it thrills with that gravelly backbone. Nominated by Georgie Hindle.
Fontodi, Flaccianello della Pieve, Colli della Toscana Centrale,
Italy
2013
94
Powerful meaty scents joined by roasted coffee and mint. Lovey, savoury, grippy tannins. This is generously extracted and not shy on wood, but all comes together. Still very youthful and structured, the vigorous tannins could use more time to mellow. Nominated by Michelle Cherutti-Kowal MW.
Rall, Ava Syrah,
South Africa
2021
94
Seductive nose, youthfully oak-led, but expressive violets, olives and black pepper. Bold and meaty, liquorice, some reductive elements, blue fruit, full-on but varietally classic. Delicious cocoa nib edge to the red plum and high-acid redcurrant fruit. Still youthful with all its primary exuberance. Nominated by Tina Gellie.
Casa Ferreirinha, Reserva Especial,
Portugal
2014
93
A lovely notion of camomile and dried hay flowers appears even before the caramelised red fruit. Melted vanilla laces dark black fruit. Brooding and overwhelming, firm and structured with some heat, but very well done. Mouthwatering and fresh. Nominated by Sarah Ahmed.
Raats Family, Cabernet Franc,
South Africa
2020
93
Opens up quite beautifully in the glass with classy red and black berries infused with graphite. Lovey fluidity and freshness with good inky depth. Oak evident but not overbearing, well weighted palate, perhaps a bit warm, but classic with lovely balance overall. Nominated by Fiona McDonald.
Rudolf Fürst, Schlossberg Pinot Noir GG,
Germany
2021
93
Lean, leafy, fresh with light reduction, but in a promising fashion. Lightness, crunch and elegance with sinuous red fruit and lovely iron-oxide depth. Peppery and spicy, pure. Mouthwatering, with fine tannin. Mineral and pointed on the finish. Nominated by Anna Lee Iijima.
Rutini, Single Vineyard Malbec, Uco Valley (Gualtallary),
Argentina
2018
93
Seductive and plush, tar and smoke evoking desert shrub: this has a transportive nature. You smell the dry earth and perfumed herb flowers. Lovely balance of oak, fruit and acid, delicious style, impressive construction. Polished but not overdone in one direction or another. Nominated by Cesar Soler.
Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Calderara Sottana, Etna,
Italy
2021
93
Subtle nose, with some brushwood and fragrant florals. Clean flowing, crisp, great acid, mineral and tensile, super grip, tactile and tangy with so much crunchy, crisp acid. Tannins are decidedly dry and clingy. A beguiling wine that is firm, slender, and lovely. Nominated by Richard Baudains.
Allegrini, La Poja Corvina Veronese,
Italy
2018
92
Blackcurrant, very pretty, floral and potpourri on the nose and initial palate. Tasty and delicate, shining fruit and smoky incense-like toasty oak. Depth and concentrated acidity with a healthy sheen of wood. Warming on the finish. Nominated by Michela Nassiz.
Bodegas Bianchi, Gran Famiglia Corte, Uco Valley,
Argentina
2020
92
Floral, smoky nose. High-toned and spirited with weight to balance the acid and density of fine tannins, and a real finesse. The palate is densely laden, full of dark fruit with a warming finish. Impressive and will appeal to Malbec aficionados. Will gain more elegance with age. Nominated by Cesar Soler.
Castillo de Cuzcurrita, Cerrado del Castillo,
Spain
2017
92
Quite modern and opulent in style. Vanilla, oak-led nuances, old-school. Concentrated raspberry flavours on a palate mellowed with a ton of tobacco, leather and grilled meatiness. Tight and firm on the finish. Nominated by Beth Willard.
Chêne Bleu, Héloïse, Vaucluse,
France
2015
92
Ripe and wild with a dark, brooding undertone, olive tapenade; classic savoury-acid Rhône-style. Evocative and meaty, with southern French character. Peppery blackberries and garrigue. Great acidity, so pure and crisp. Drink now. Nominated by Stacy Slinkard.
Cheval des Andes,
Argentina
2020
92
Sweet-fruited, blackberry nose, lots of spirit-spiked Christmas cake booziness. Swish tannins, juicy and full-bodied, very opulent and undeniably impressive. Nominated by Alejandro Iglesias.
Philip Togni Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley,
USA
2018
92
Bramble berries with smoky and cocoa notes, some savoury characters but chock-full of bright fruit. Ripe, dense tannins with overt oak; a dry, vertical structure that lends intrigue and captivating savoury notes, bringing this wine to a warming close. Nominated by Justin Knock MW.
Tapanappa, Foggy Hill Pinot Noir, Fleurieu Peninsula,
Australia
2019
92
High-toned and crisp, mineral, a little underripe with crunchy, fresh green leaf notes and bonfire smoke, a touch of mint. Lithe with a structured character. Nominated by Anne Krebiehl MW.
Te Mata, Coleraine,
New Zealand
2021
92
Juicy, ripe and hedonistic, expressive aromas, sweet bay leaf character and graphite notes. Lovely plum fruit, subtle cinnamon and much freshness on the palate. Flowing and clean, albeit with an edge of greenness. Weighty and ambitious. Nominated by Rupert Owen.
The Standish Wine Co, The Relic, Barossa Valley,
Australia
2021
91
Overtly floral lifted nose of violets with chocolate, rich and jammy with a ripe, apricot jam edge. Concentrated and powerful with very dense tannins. Nominated by Rupert Owen.
Trothe, Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills,
USA
2019
91
Dense dark nose, laden with fruit, yet savoury and starting to mellow. A big, sweet, juicy Washington wine with some alcoholic heat. Big, but with balance. There is a wildness here, meaty and overt. Nominated by Clive Pursehouse.
Cà dei Maghi, Canova Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva,
Italy
2015
90
An evolved nose. Charred oak, baked cherry, toasty nougat aromas full-body, dense tannin, and swish ripeness, but tarry and savoury. Quite monumental. Impressive and age-worthy. Nominated by Michael Garner.
Di Prisco, Taurasi, Irpinia,
Italy
2015
90
Oak-led and spicy yet mellowed, meaty and stewed with echoes of smoke. Evolution means cep mushroom depth, dried cherry, still-drying tannins, and juicy freshness. Nominated by Anthony Rose.
Fritz Wassmer, Spätburgunder CCL,
Germany
2020
90
Ripe and oaked with sweet spice. Forest berries with pure, crunchy and mouthwatering acidity. Slightly smoky on the finish. Nominated by Markus Del Monego MW.
Mike & Molly Hendry, RW Moore Vineyard Zinfandel, Napa Valley (Coombsville),
USA
2021
90
Hedonistic with caramel oak and scents redolent of that warm brown sugar. Butterscotch and sweet ripe red fruit with bramble-berry appeal. Nominated by Barbara Philip MW.
Orma, Toscana,
Italy
2015
90
A real savoury edge, meaty Bovril notes. Fully evolved, the palate shows soft plush fruit, dry tannins and heat. Nominated by Michela Nassiz.
Remírez de Ganuza, Iraila,
Spain
2021
90
The nose is youthful, raspberry-led, pure and lively. Sweetly fruited, strawberry juice and some confected raspberry hints. Juicy and friendly. Nominated by Laura Bianco.
Storm, Ridge Pinot Noir, Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge,
South Africa
2020
90
The deliciousness of primary fruit sings of red berry purity, slightly earthy and mossy. Savoury, autumnal fallen leaves, and mulch, very secondary, but it is made in a lovely style. Nominated by Ronan Sayburn MS.
Equipo Navazos, I Think Amontillado,
Spain
2019
94
A very rich roasted hazelnut character makes this hard to resist. Lovely caramel crispness, lemon rind and peach, quite complex. There is a leesy, sea saltiness to it: vanilla, dried banana skin, tangy, smoky and such umami length – whoa! Nominated by Sarah Jane Evans MW.
Hidalgo, La Gitana Manzanilla En Rama
Spain
95
Bodegas Hidalgo, most famous for its Tio Pepe Fino brand, was founded in 1792 and is based in the seaside city of Sanlúcar de Barrameda. It is the last remaining family-run business to produce and export its own unblended, single-solera Sherries. As with all manzanilla, this is made from 100% Palomino grapes grown on white albariza soils at Hidalgo’s highest-quality vineyards of El Cuadrado at Balbaina Alta, and is matured over eight years beneath a layer of flor, using the traditional solera system of fractional blending in American oak casks. The en rama style means the wine is freshly bottled, natural and unfined, straight from the cask. Only 35 of the solera’s 1,000-litre capacity barrels were used for this spring 2023 release. Tina Gellie: Very impressive quality for under £20 – and could be in the Classic category as it’s such a benchmark example of the manzanilla style. Saline, fresh and singing with its briney olive, Marcona almonds, tangy apple and yeasty notes. Deliciously moreish, bracingly crisp and crying out for a bucket of prawns. Yum! Anne Krebiehl MW: Salty, green walnut skins, absolutely savoury, tangy, totally mouthfilling and oh-so salty – umami bomb deliciousness. And so long. Michaela Morris: Classically green apple, almondy brackiness. Firmly structured and persistent. If I ordered a glass of this, I’d be so satisfied. Doughy snap to finish. Drink while fresh. Nominated by Julie Sheppard.
