Pascal Jolivet, Sancerre Sauvage, Loire, France, 2013

The received wisdom is that Sauvignon Blanc doesn't age. One sip of this 2013 vintage Sancerre dispels that theory. Sauvage, which is indeed 'wild' in character, is a premium expression of Sancerre, made from old vines grown on limestone soils, aged for a year on lees in stainless steel. 2013 was in fact a difficult vintage, but although the wine obviously displays evolution, it's not tired in the least - slightly vegetal yes, with asparagus notes, but smoky, herby and with gorgeous purity. This is no longer commercially available, but it shows that it's worth laying down a bottle or two of this if you buy a younger vintage. Would be a heavenly match for an asparagus risotto.