Bodega Numanthia, Termanthia, Toro, Castilla y Léon, 2010

Mature nose of earthy tobacco leaf, liquorice, prunes; some brightness on the palate with sweet oak spice. Lovely silky texture. Must have been a monster in its youth, but settling into a relatively sedate middle age.

Almost a decade old, the flagship wine from Numanthia is from a single 4.78ha vineyard, Teso de los Carriles. Astonishingly it hosts several ungrafted vines planted between 1870 and 1890, and many others which are also over 100 years of age. The 2010 is the current release and is made with 200% new French oak, the first barrels deployed for six months and used for malolactic fermentation, the second batch for a further 16 months, with extensive bottle age thereafter. This is old school for sure: tobacco, incense and leather to the fore. Displays a certain charm born out of idiosyncrasy, manifested by tannins that are still foursquare and a savoury, slightly tarry attack. For all that it is beautifully concentrated and extremely long on the palate; leathery layers and spicy insouciance make it a potential partner for powerful gastronomy.

Very good to see that Numanthia is releasing its wines with more time in the cellar. The great concentration of Termanthia should not be unleashed upon an unsuspecting world too soon. Now almost a decade on from the harvest, and almost eight years from bottling (June 2012) the 2010 has had the time it needs. Not to say it’s ready to drink – it will cheerfully take another five years before you start uncorking it. Glorious complex aromas – truffle, vanilla, cedar, smoke – lead into dark fruits, mocha, menthol and spices. Very long.