Taittinger, Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs, 1996

Evolved gold colour with candied lemon and a touch of peach on the nose. A stolid if edgy palate, muscled, even a little burly. This lacks the rapier-like racy  thrust of a great Comtes like '95; good rather than exceptional.

When tasting the 1996, expectations were high in the room, but it didn't quite deliver on the day. Many 1996s today are showing development and this is no exception. It's very forward, expressing oxidative notes alongside aromas of ripe, almost compote, apple, prunes and sweet coconut. The richness and opulence are supported by a framework of good acidity and lots of ripe, developed fruit characters with caramel and sweet coconut hints.