Back in 1851 when Marist missionaries planted some of New Zealand’s first vines in Hawke’s Bay, they couldn’t have known what the area would become. But fast forward through decades of growth – as well as challenges ranging from earthquakes to cyclones – and the country’s second-largest wine region is now a tourism hotspot. Thirsty travellers seeking vinous exploration that balances diversity with world-class quality can sip their way through Chardonnays and Syrahs, Sauvignon Blancs and Pinot Noirs, at dozens of celebrated cellar doors. Most of them a mere grape’s toss from Breckenridge Lodge.
Overlooking a manicured patch of Chardonnay vines in the Omarunui Valley, Breckenridge Lodge was built by chef Malcolm Redmond in the early 2000s as a base in which to serve his hyper-local, hyper-seasonal cuisine. Twenty years later, with Malcolm’s American wife Ellie on side, the simple but effective formula – fabulous food, first-class wine and a relaxed ethos – remains very much in place at this intimate stay.
Culinary magic
What’s on your plate is central to every part of the Breckenridge Lodge experience. Malcolm’s own organic kitchen garden is the source of his culinary magic: just over a hectare bursting with everything from figs to passion fruit, plus a ramble of hundreds of native trees. Combining this bounty with meat and fish sourced from the wider region, Malcolm plates up daily five-course dinners featuring dishes like pan-fried snapper with cavolo nero sauce or crayfish and avocado roll with Chardonnay potato salad and rocket. What isn’t used in the kitchen goes into compost, ready for redeployment in the garden.
The cellar is no less considered. Malcolm and Ellie have amassed more than 2,000 bottles over the years and allow them to age before uncorking alongside dishes thoughtfully chosen to match. That means no matter how much local winery touring you do, you’ll always find surprises through older vintages and rare bottlings. For example, expect a pour of De La Terre Blanc de Blancs 2016 alongside that crayfish and avocado roll.
When you’re ready to explore the full breadth of the region’s vinous bounty, the Breckenridge team will happily arrange visits at any one of 30-plus local wineries within a 15-minute drive. Alternatively, team members can simply point you in the direction of their favourites, including The Urban Winery – where Tony Bish showcases his wines alongside other small producers such as Jenny Dobson – or the aforementioned De La Terre, which makes everything from Tannat to Montepulciano. Here winemaker and owner Tony Pritchard runs the tastings; follow up yours with a lunch from the pizza oven, overseen by his wife Kaye.
Or perhaps combine a history lesson with great tastings on a visit to some of the country’s oldest wineries. Te Mata Estate – known for its Bordeaux-style red blends – was founded in 1896, while Mission Estate dates all the way back to that first planting year, 1851.
Unwind and enjoy
In the rare moments when eating and drinking are not taking centre stage, homely Breckenridge provides a restorative space to unwind. Each of the five individual en-suite rooms, from taupe-hued ‘Coffee’ to floral print-splashed ‘Rose’ comes with heated floors, handmade wood furniture and toiletries made from the garden’s own lavender, lending a relaxed home-from-home air. And, of course, each comes with sweeping views out to those manicured vines, too.
With secluded paths winding through woodland and a pond that attracts around 30 different bird species including egrets and herons, the Breckenridge Lodge grounds provide plenty of reason to linger when you’re looking for a quiet afternoon.
Otherwise, for active exploration beyond the cellars, take to the 200km of regional cycling trails – Malcolm and Ellie will arrange bike hire for you – visit the local golf club a few miles away or hike up Te Mata peak. Or explore the self-proclaimed Art Deco capital of the world, Napier, bursting with sublime period architecture, and just a 15-minute drive away.
For further information, see the Breckenridge Lodge website.