Provence rosé: This summer's best buys

This year's tasting of Provence rosés confirmed that the region can offer consistent technical quality and style, making the wines a reliable choice for consumers. The uniformity, however, makes it difficult to single out wines to be recommended, leaving value for money and presentation often the determining factors. In a tasting of over 250 rosés, in a sea of sameness, it was the wines with extra personality which stood out from the crowd. The majority of Provence rosé comes from the three largest appellations of Côtes de Provence , Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence and Coteaux Varois en Provence. These regions work hand-in-hand as a marketing team and a cohesive brand, clearly marketing the word 'Provence' in their appellation name, and which together account for more than 90% of the volume of Provence rosé. Scroll down for Elizabeth Gabay MW's top Provence rosé picks [subscriber-content]Inevitably, even with diverse terroir ranging from hot coastal districts to the cooler uplands in the north, including the Luberon (home to the iconic lavender fields of Provence), there is a commonality in winemaking styles. Vin de France and various IGP (regional Mediterranée and more local labels) should also not be ignored, especially with their greater liberty in the use of single variety or different blends. Then there's Bandol rosés with their strong Mourvèdre character. Holidaying in Provence? See our travel guide here Vintage conditions hold sway Wines submitted for this tasting showed less regional variation and diversity than previous vintages, possibly reflecting a tough 2023 vintage where mildew reduced yield but continued commercial demands for volume put pressure on maintaining the same levels of production. As with the 2022 vintage, two styles emerged, largely in response to the hot, dry summer. The majority of these were rosés which were harvested early to retain acidity, creating very fresh and vibrant wines.

Many also displayed more neutral white fruit, and a touch of creaminess mid-palate suggesting that some malolactic fermentation occurred to balance the acidity. Others were harvested a little later, and while they had more charming fruit, they also showed lower acidity and higher alcohol.

The best rosés managed to balance the two styles, either through different harvest dates or access to grapes from different sites and blending. Overall, the 2023 vintage, a difficult year which clearly showed up the good producers, delivered wines which are extremely pale, possibly reflecting a growing demand for white wine. [caption id="attachment_534468" align="alignnone" width="626"] Provence appellations and their hectarage under vine.[/caption] Time to revaluate? With budgets tightening, a review of the rosés of Provence takes on a different strategy – value for money wines, which have the classic freshness and charming fruit, or wines that, commanding a slightly higher price, offer greater complexity. Fewer older vintages or darker rosés were submitted, possibly reflecting a difficult economic market with producers playing safe with classic, fresh styles. Significantly, however, the top-scoring wines showed handsome age. Not necessarily because 2022 or 2021 were better vintages, but because the older wines presented were premium level, often with some or all fermentation taking place in barrel, in addition to barrel maturation and being made with ageing potential in mind. There were some consistent results with quality wines from producers who regularly achieve high scores. But there were also a number of producers who disappointed and a few new names suggesting that the 2023 vintage may be one to explore beyond the usual safe choices. [/subscriber-content] Elizabeth Gabay MW's top Provence rosés to seek out: [wine-collection] Related articles Discovering the ‘micro crus’ of Provence plus 12 wines to seek out Best rosé wines: 30 to try this summer Best rosé wines beyond Provence