Chianti Classico Annata: New releases in 2023

There are always some producers who choose to age their wines in their cellars for longer than required, and tasting these late-release 2020s next to their 2021 counterparts was instructive, as the two vintages have some similarities. While 2021 was hotter and drier than 2020, harvest wasn’t necessarily earlier, and some producers picked later. Comparing the two, Alyson Morgan at Podere Capaccia in Radda describes 2021 as less stressful. ‘The vines stayed happy and healthy all the way through the season. We started picking Sangiovese on October 1st, which is right on schedule for us.’ [breakout] Chianti Classico 2021 vintage rating: 4.5 /5 Ample winter rain and spring showers helped offset the hot, dry conditions in summer, while localised spring frost damage contributed to lower yields. The resulting annata are relatively rich and structured. [/breakout] Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top Chianti Classico Annata releases in 2023 [subscriber-content]In warmer areas such as San Casciano and San Donato a Poggio, picking kicked off in mid-September. Harvest was also protracted due in part to localised late September showers. Throughout the region, yields were lower than average in 2021 with small, concentrated yet healthy grapes. ‘Not too high sugar content, and high acidity allowed us to wait until the optimal moment,’ says Federica Mascheroni at Castello di Volpaia. Side by side, 2021, 2020 and 2019 offer something for every palate and there are standouts in each of the three vintages. Taken as a whole, the annata category continues to boast some of Italy’s best value, most versatile and gastronomic wines. After a year of finding refuge in the vineyard in 2020, wine growers began the 2021 growing season with a jolt. Warm weather in March was followed by a sudden drop in temperatures in the week following Easter: frost struck between 6-8 April, burning nascent buds in the most precocious pockets. Many producers I surveyed calculated a 10% loss of production. While low-lying vineyards were particularly affected, frost afflicted some higher altitude areas as well. ‘It was the first time in 30 years that we were hit,’ says Luca Orsini at Le Cinciole in Panzano, who estimated 30% of the vines were damaged. Spring progressed without further drama and adequate rain encouraged vegetative growth. Then the long, hot and dry summer began. On the positive side, this made for low disease pressure, with only minor concerns of oidium. Pests, on the other hand, were a bigger problem. ‘This year is a disaster for cinghiale,’ said Pomona’s Monica Raspi when I visited in mid-September of 2021, just before harvest. Due to 2020’s Covid restrictions banning hunting, the wild boar population had grown significantly, and the warm, dry weather made them extra thirsty for grapes. Despite the heat and lack of rain, many producers reported fewer issues of vine stress than expected. There are several reasons for this. Firstly, abundant and regular precipitation in early winter had built up water reserves which were topped up by spring rainfall. Furthermore, the extreme heat in August only lasted a few days (it was significantly longer in 2022.) And, although just a few millimetres, showers in mid-August refreshed the vines. Finally, the spring frost served, in some cases, as a natural selection. ‘The plants didn’t suffer from an excessive load of grapes during the dry summer,’ explains Matteo Vaccari, citing one bunch per branch instead of two. Undoubtedly, the 2021 annata wines speak to the generous warmth of the vintage. They are richer than usual given the heat at the end of the growing season yet rarely tip the scale in terms of ripeness – while dense and fruit laden, they don’t sport the sheer plumpness of 2015 or edginess of 2017, for example. Acidities have been preserved, alcohol levels are not overly exaggerated, fragrances are fresh, and they are well-padded for delightful drinking over the next five years or so. See all 135 new Chianti Classico wines from Michaela's latest report [caption id="attachment_502475" align="aligncenter" width="300"] Alyson Morgan, winemaker at Podere Capaccia. Credit: Michaela Morris / Decanter[/caption] [breakout] Chianti Classico regionality in 2021 Greve in Chianti The diversity of Chianti Classico is perfectly demonstrated by the nearby yet vastly different sub-areas of Panzano and Lamole, in Greve in Chianti. In the former, Pietraforte (solid calcareous sandstone) prevails, giving dark-fruited, firm wines as demonstrated by Fontodi, Felciano and Il Molino di Grace. Conversely, on the cool, lofty slopes of Lamole where Macigno (non-calcareous, friable sandstone) reigns, an elegant and floral expression is exhibited by I Fabbri and Castellinuzza.

San Casciano The generous warmth of San Casciano in the region’s northwest is evident in the ample ripeness in wines such as Capaccioli, Cigliano di Sopra and Principe Corsini’s Le Corti. It reaches an apogee in the balanced sumptuousness of Montesecondo.

Castellina in Chianti Similarly, the sunny southwest expositions of Castellina show a fleshiness in Castagnoli, La Leccia, Capraia and Castellare di Castellina.

Radda in Chianti While the heights of Radda generally give leaner wines, Castello di Albola clearly sports more stuffing than usual as does the ever radiant and still streamlined Monteraponi. Poggerino is its typical, fuller self, and one of the most serious annata of these early releases.

Gaiole in Chianti Finally, Gaiole’s earthy, foresty intrigue was on full display in bottlings from La Montanina and Ricasoli’s Brolio. Here, Rocca di Montegrossi joins Poggerino for best in show.

These differences may become even more apparent when youthful exuberance subsides and the Riserva and Gran Selezione bottlings are released. These two categories are poised to be fully charged with fruit and structure for ageing in the 2021 vintage.

[/breakout] [/subscriber-content] Chianti Classico Annata: Top-scoring new releases in 2023 [wine-collection] [breakout] Read Michaela's other Chianti Classico 2023 reports: Chianti Classico Riserva: New releases in 2023

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione: New releases in 2023

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