The transformation of Canada's Gamay scene plus 15 top bottles

Winemakers and drinkers alike have embraced Gamay for its versatility, as well as its vibrant acidity and juicy fruit flavours, boosting the grape’s popularity to an all-time high. Renowned in Beaujolais , where half of the grape's 30,000 global hectares are grown, its best expression comes from cool climate regions, where the grape ripens early. It's no surprise, therefore, that it's finding its North American home in Canada. But where it was once predominantly used and viewed as a blending grape, producers today are increasingly focusing on varietal and single-vineyard expressions. Scroll down for 15 Canadian Gamays worth seeking out [subscriber-content] Remarkable transformation Canada’s wine scene has experienced a remarkable transformation over the last two decades. What was once a country famed only for ice wine is now being sought after for its varied offering. ‘It’s safe to say, "those who know” know that Canada makes some great still and sparkling wines,’ says Canadian writer and judge Janet Dorozynski, who works with the Canadian wine industry on international business development. ‘Perception has been shifting thanks to concerted international promotional efforts,’ she adds. Canada’s own wine journey somewhat mirrors that of Gamay. Around the world, Gamay’s great handicap has long been its association with cheap and cheerful Beaujolais Nouveau. ‘It’s not perceived as serious,’ says Dorozynski. But, thanks to more complex expressions coming from Beaujolais itself, bolstered by adoption in countries and regions as far-flung as New Zealand, Oregon, Chile – and Canada – opinions are changing. Gamay is often overshadowed by the Burgundian varieties that thrive in cool climates, but it is emerging as an unexpected Canadian darling. Winemakers in both British Columbia (BC) and Ontario are crafting Gamay wines that reflect the grape’s natural attributes and the nuances of their terroirs. [caption id="attachment_525904" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Thomas Bachelder checking the vines. Credit: Karen Black[/caption] Ontario Gamay represents a mere 3% of Ontario’s VQA wine production by volume. While small, it’s much friendlier to make than its aristocratic Burgundian parent, Pinot Noir. Ilya Senchuk, co-founder and winemaker at Niagara’s Leaning Post Wines, explains: ‘It's much more like Chardonnay in the sense that you can do lots of different things with it.’ From rosé to a component in bold and structured blends to lighter varietal expression, ‘you can use the same grapes to make three or four different styles of wine’. There’s no doubt that varietal expressions are where the grape is seeing the most growth. VQA Ontario reports that Gamay’s production volume went from around 170,000 litres to just over 300,000 between 2014 and 2023. That increase was shared across 40 producers, up from just over 20 who included the grape in their portfolio in 2014. One in particular, Thomas Bachelder, produces eight single-vineyard Niagara Cru Gamay Noirs (and one blend) under his annual ‘La Violette’ release. ‘It’s a lovable weed,’ Bachelder says, referring to the grape’s ability to yield up to six tons per acre in a good vintage [roughly 114hl/ha - but dependant on planting density], double that of Pinot Noir. Bachelder’s Gamay portfolio centres solely on the Niagara Escarpment, spanning four sub-appellations. ‘We're on clay and limestone, and so is half of Beaujolais. The lower half outside the crus, the Bas Beaujolais and the Pierre Dorées are the definitions of clay and limestone,’ he explains when comparing Niagara’s terroir to Gamay’s French homeland. Senchuk adds: ‘There aren't too many places in the New World that have a similar soil and climate to the Old World, but Niagara is it.’ British Columbia Western Canada is full of diverse terroirs for Gamay, with expressions coming from multiple Geographical Indications (GIs), including Vancouver Island, Thompson Valley, Okanagan Valley, and Similkameen Valley. The Okanagan’s valley floor is too warm to grow Gamay, so, ‘you tend to find most successful examples further north or at higher altitudes,’ says Ryan de Witte, winemaker at Rust Wine Co, which makes its Gamay from Similkameen Valley grapes. ‘We have two main things in our favour: a drying prevailing wind that allows us to farm the grapes with limited disease pressure and higher mountains that shade the vineyards at the warmest time of day,’ he explains. De Witte is a former colleague of Ilya Senchuk at Leaning Post and was able to segue his Gamay cultivation across the country. ‘In Ontario, where the acidities tend to be higher, the wines require more barrel ageing. It takes longer for them to resolve and unwind. Here [in BC], they tend to be more open earlier in their evolution.’ Statistics from BC Winegrowers show that Gamay was once among the top five red varieties planted in the province, along with Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc. However, Syrah took its place in the early 2000s. Despite being ousted from the top five, Gamay plantings have increased substantially over the last 15 years, from 57ha (143 acres) in 2008 to 103ha (256 acres) in 2022, a province-wide increase of 44%. In those years, however, BC has experienced increasingly unpredictable weather, including growing-season wildfires and, recently, two back-to-back winters with harsh cold snaps in the Okanagan, resulting in a significant crop losses. [caption id="attachment_526375" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Views of vineyards in Kelowna, BC. Credit: Wines of British Columbia[/caption] Dorozynski cites recently published VineAlert research, which has uncovered Gamay as one of Canada’s most cold-resistant Vitis vinifera varieties. It ‘warrants further study to assist with replanting decisions,’ she says. A timely remark as BC’s provincial government recently announced C$70 million (£41million) to help producers replace damaged, diseased and low-producing vines, plants, and trees with climate-resilient varieties that produce in-demand, premium fruit. Canadian Gamay is helping to reshape the country's wine landscape. With its versatility, regional expressions, and resilience to climate challenges, the grape is carving a distinct niche. It may help solidify Canada's position as a serious player in the fine wine conversation. ‘Wineries need to put their best foot forward and make an effort to have trade and media taste and learn more about what makes Canadian Gamay exciting,’ Dorozynski concludes. [/subscriber-content] Tasting notes for 15 Canadian Gamays: [wine-collection] Related articles Vancouver Island: A wine lover's guide Discovering Canada's Similkameen Valley Ontario Chardonnay: 20 great buys

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The transformation of Canada’s Gamay scene plus 15 top bottles

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