Nestled amid the rolling hills of the Bordeaux wine region, the small, picturesque town of St-Emilion is steeped in history and revered by wine enthusiasts around the globe. Here, the art of winemaking is not merely a trade but a sacred tradition passed down through generations, shaping the identity of this enchanting destination.
The story of this UNESCO World Heritage site dates back to the first planting of vines back in Roman times. Over the ensuing centuries, monks meticulously tended the vineyards, perfecting the art of winemaking and laying the foundation for the prestigious wines that bear the town’s name.
Today, St-Emilion is more than just a wine destination – it’s a pilgrimage for wine lovers, drawn to the region’s rich cultural heritage and profound connection to the land. What makes it stand out from the other wine regions in Bordeaux is that rare combination of spectacular wines, gastronomic sophistication and absorbing heritage. So whether you’re savouring a glass of a grand cru classé or exploring the underground cellars of a historic château, each moment spent in St-Emilion is a journey of discovery and delight.
Landmark experiences
Among the seven villages and two small towns that make up the wider St-Emilion appellation, the town of St-Emilion itself stands out for its centuries-old architectural wonders, vibrant ambience and wealth of charming wine boutiques and quality restaurants. Be sure to take some time to thoroughly immerse yourself in this historic enclave and explore its most important and beautiful landmarks.
The monolithic church of St-Emilion, a marvel of ancient craftsmanship (built in the 11th and 12th centuries), houses underground chambers adorned with cryptic carvings and sacred chapels hewn directly into the limestone cliffs. Nearby, the collegiate church boasts exquisite Romanesque and Gothic architecture (built in the 12th-15th centuries) and features a flamboyant 13th-century Gothic cloister, where visitors can admire intricate frescoes depicting scenes of local history and religious significance.
Don’t miss the steep streets, or tertres, in the town centre. These four ruelles (‘lanes’) are natural slopes transformed into pathways with irregular cobblestone paving. And wander through the bustling market hall, located at the corner of the square near the monolithic church, whose Gothic arches and mouldings date back to medieval times, when the market housed grain traders.
Across the cobblestones, Le Cloître des Cordeliers presents a fascinating fusion of past and present.
Credit: Trabantos / Shutterstock
The historic cloisters (pictured, above), built during the 14th century, now serve as the backdrop for wine production, and visitors can witness the process of creating sparkling wines (atypical for the region) using the traditional method. The cloisters offer hour-long tours that include a horizontal tasting of its sparkling wines in the renovated tasting room (€15 per person, 4pm daily). Even if you’re not taking a tour, this would be a great place for a sparkling break, especially on hot days.
Exploring the wines
Credit: Ian Shaw / Alamy Stock Photo
But let’s not forget, it was St-Emilion’s renowned red wines that brought you here. So, for wine tasting purposes, I highly recommend leaving the centre to explore some of the region’s wineries.
Unsurprisingly, wine lovers are spoiled for choice, with more than 100 châteaux offering a range of experiences, from traditional wine tastings to wine and cheese pairings, cooking classes and vineyard explorations. At Château Rol Valentin, for example, you can enjoy a two-hour ‘wine glass shape’ workshop (€36 per person) and discover the effect of the size and shape of a glass on your perception of the wine contained within.
For a truly immersive experience, visit Château Fleur Cardinale, where guided tours (from €24 per adult for a one-hour ‘first impression’) offer insights into the estate’s organic viticultural practices, culminating in a tasting of its exceptional grand cru classé wines. If you’re visiting with kids, the winery also offers fun, family-friendly tours and a virtual reality experience (€89 per adult, €20 for 13-to 17-year-olds) as well as a sensorial corridor that brings the vineyard inside, and a landscaped terrace that overlooks the countryside.
If you love architecture, I highly recommend visiting Château Montlabert, which boasts an impressive 18th-century neoclassical facade. Visitors can take an in-depth tour that includes an immersive experience created in the barrel cellar by set designer Eric le Collen, depicting the life cycle of the vine and the land, and culminates with a tasting of three of the château’s wines (€30 per person).
For art enthusiasts, the beautifully renovated Château de Ferrand, owned by Pauline Bich Chandon-Moët and her husband Philippe Chandon-Moët (of the Bic pen and Champagne companies respectively), contains a diverse collection of modern artworks created using or inspired by Bic pens. Visitors can also indulge in tastings and gastronomic delights at the château’s La Table de Ferrand, under the care of chef Marilyn Madray, and even stay the night in one of three tastefully appointed bedrooms (from €290 per night).
Finally, don’t miss the opportunity to visit Château Mauvinon, where you can enjoy guided tours and tastings of its wines amid idyllic surroundings. I recommend taking the Gourmet Visit, during which you’ll taste three wines, each paired with a different cheese (€20 per person, 12.30pm-2pm daily).
My perfect day in St-Emilion
Morning & lunch
Start your day in the heart of St-Emilion and embark on a stroll to Château Soutard, where you can choose from a range of experiences, including the ‘prestige’ visit, which takes in an exploration of the underground quarries, cellars and 18th century mansion (listed in the inventory of historic monuments of France), plus a vertical tasting of five exceptional vintages, accompanied by a selection of mature cheeses (€130 per person).
For a memorable lunch experience, venture to Château la Dominique and savour a delectable meal at its terrace restaurant La Terrasse Rouge. With panoramic views of the vineyards, this picturesque setting provides the perfect backdrop for a series of culinary delights. Before your meal, be sure to take a guided wine-tasting experience in the château’s modern tasting room (from €35 per person) and stop by the boutique shop for some goodies on the way out.
Afternoon
Venture on to one last winery for the day. The family-owned Château Guibeau in Puisseguin St-Emilion is situated on one of the highest points in the Bordeaux region. This five-generation family estate offers a unique insight into the winemaking traditions of the Destouet dynasty. Then transition back from the vineyards to the medieval streets in the heart of St-Emilion, where, despite the town’s quaint size, you can easily while away a few hours.
Dinner
As the day winds down, treat yourself to a sophisticated evening at the two-star Michelin restaurant La Table de Pavie. Alternatively, for a more relaxed atmosphere, Chai Pascal offers delicious options to satisfy your culinary cravings.
Hotel stay
Complete your perfect day by staying at the Logis de la Cadène, ideally located in the heart of St-Emilion. Alternatively, for an unforgettable vineyard experience, consider Château Troplong Mondot just outside town, where you can wake up among the vines. Both also have fantastic one-star Michelin restaurants.
La Terrasse Rouge
Exciting events
The St-Emilion appellation encompasses more than 5,400ha of vineyards, making it a relatively compact wine region. Exploring by car provides flexibility in selecting wineries to visit, but guided tours offer a deeper dive into the region’s wines. Several companies offer e-bike tours, including Rustic Vines, whose full-day ‘original’ tour features a picnic lunch with wine, visits and tastings at two wineries, a guided walking tour of St-Emilion and a wine tasting in the town centre (from €169 per person).
The best time to visit St Emilion is during spring and early autumn, when the weather is mild and the vineyards are alive with activity. Visiting during the harvest season in September and early October is especially interesting as it provides an intimate glimpse into the winemaking process. The beginning of the harvest is marked by the Ban des Vendanges – a ceremony that takes place on the third Sunday in September in the centre of town.
However, arguably the most exciting event in St-Emilion is the Portes Ouvertes ‘open house’ weekend, typically held on the first weekend of May. This special occasion offers a rare opportunity to explore numerous châteaux over the course of a weekend. Visitors can enjoy guided tours of the estates and their vat rooms, and sample wines from various vintages. Many wineries enhance the experience with festive additions such as lunches, concerts, children’s activities and art exhibitions. For those who appreciate the charm of family-owned wineries, this event is particularly delightful because it allows guests to interact with multiple generations of winemakers, all in one place.
For a non-wine-specific activity, there’s also Les Montgolfiades de Saint-Emilion, the annual three-day hot air balloon festival, which takes place in October and welcomes more than 10,000 people to view dozens of balloons floating over the vines. In St-Emilion, every sip tells a story and every vineyard visit is an opportunity to immerse yourself in the timeless art of winemaking. Whether you’re a seasoned oenophile or a curious novice, a journey to this beguiling region promises unforgettable experiences and equally memorable wines.
Credit: Maa
Your St-Emilion address book
Accommodation
Visitors can delight in the estate’s prestigious guesthouse, recognised for its historic charm and tranquil countryside setting. A 2023 regional winner of the Great Wine Capital Accommodation award, the château’s main building can also be rented out for exclusive use.
4km northwest of St-Emilion, this château is a luxury five-star hotel featuring beautifully appointed rooms, an amazing spa and wellness facility, gourmet dining options and panoramic views of the surrounding vineyards.
With incredible views over St-Emilion, Troplong Mondot offers a host of luxurious accommodation options, including renting the entire 18th-century château or the two-bedroom Vineyard House, nestled between rows of vines.
Château Grand Barrail
Restaurants
A beautiful restaurant from the family-run Château de Candale set on the edge of vines with incredible views of St Emilion’s southern slopes. The head chef Renaud Bernadet uses fresh, seasonal and local ingredients all presented elegantly and pairable with the estate’s wines. Perfect for romantic getaways, celebrations or family meals; in summer, enjoy the outside terrace. The estate also offers tours and tastings and has a boutique shop for souvenirs.
Located in St-Emilion’s historic centre, La Table de Pavie is renowned for its innovative dishes and elegant ambience. Owned by the Perse family, also owners of premier grand cru classé A estate Château Pavie (and others), the restaurant, led by celebrated chef Yannick Alléno, holds two Michelin stars.
At Château Petit Faurie de Soutard’s restaurant Le Jardin, chef Stéphane Casset serves locally sourced cuisine amid picturesque gardens. The restaurant’s front terrace and back balcony both overlook the surrounding hills.
The one-star Michelin restaurant at Château Troplong Mondot offers gourmet cuisine and panoramic vineyard views. Led by acclaimed chef David Charrier, the esteemed restaurant is a great dining option for those looking for a wonderful culinary experience using produce sourced from the estate’s own herb and vegetable gardens.
Things to do
Visit the Cloître des Cordeliers
Renovated historic monastery known for its traditional-method sparkling wines, offering guided tours and tastings in a picturesque setting.
Le Cloître des Cordeliers. Credit: Jessica Clavier
Taste the local wines
Discover the rich heritage of St-Emilion at the Maison du Vin, a prestigious wine institution dedicated to promoting the region’s finest wines. Explore the extensive collection of bottles from local producers and participate in informative tastings led by knowledgeable sommeliers. This is one of the best places to buy St Emilion wines.
Indulge your sweet tooth
Back in about 1620, Ursuline nuns in St-Emilion invented what has become known as the St-Emilion macaron. Made from ground almonds, sugar and egg whites – but without the garish colours of the more widely known version, and not sandwiched together with ganache – these delicate treats offer a taste of history with every bite. Visit Nadia Fermigier’s shop, renowned for its authentic St-Emilion macarons and a delightful array of other local sweet delicacies.
9 Rue Guadet, 33330 St-Emilion
How to get there
Credit: JP Map Graphics Ltd
St-Emilion is about a 45-minute drive from Bordeaux city centre and 55 minutes from Bergerac in the Dordogne region. The two nearest airports are Bordeaux Airport in Mérignac and Bergerac Dordogne Périgord Airport in Bergerac. The town is served by both train, from Bordeaux’s Gare St Jean station, and by bus from outside the city’s tourism office.
