In my new book Romy Gill’s India, I invite you to journey with me back to my roots, travelling through my ancestral kitchens to discover the true essence of home-cooked Indian cuisine. Growing up as the daughter of Punjabis in West Bengal, I was immersed in two vibrant cultures that celebrate food in unique and meaningful ways. India’s diverse cultures influence so many aspects of daily life, in particular the rituals and ceremonies that vary from region to region, and even from village to village. Whether it’s religious festivals, weddings, birthdays or any other traditional gathering, food is always at the heart of every celebration, the unifying factor that binds everybody together. With this book I wanted to evoke the comforting flavours of home and show the beautiful simplicity of Indian cooking.
Kekada Masala
My childhood friend Simi and I share a bond rooted in New Town in Burnpur, West Bengal, where I grew up. Our common passions, particularly our love for culinary adventures, have bonded us forever. Countless college escapades involved outings to watch movies, then occasionally getting caught. It was during one of these movie escapades that I stumbled upon a scene portraying the joy of savouring crabs. Intrigued and captivated, the desire to taste the delicacy lingered in my mind. The opportunity finally presented itself when I tasted crab in England and then with Simi’s roots from Kerala I crafted the recipe, infusing it with flavours that complement the crab meat. This dish became the most loved starter in my restaurant. The creamy coconut milk, the pungent mustard seeds, the moreish curry leaves and the sourness of the tamarind elevates the dish.
Serves 4
Ingredients
- 5 tsp rapeseed or sunflower oil
- 1 tsp black mustard seeds
- 8 fresh curry leaves
- 4 large garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
- 100g white onion, peeled and finely chopped
- 25g fresh grated (shredded) coconut (desiccated coconut is fine, too)
- 1-2 tsp chilli powder
- 1 tsp ground turmeric
- 1 tsp ground coriander
- 1⁄2 tsp salt
- 2 tsp tamarind paste
- 1 tsp brown sugar
- 100ml coconut milk
- 200g ready-to-eat cooked white crab meat (if you can’t find fresh you can use canned white crab meat instead)
- Toasted sourdough, rice or flatbreads, to serve
Method
1. Heat the oil in a pan over a high heat. Once the oil is hot, add the mustard seeds and curry leaves.
2. As soon as the mustard seeds start to pop, add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds, then add the onion and cook for 3-4 minutes.
3. Reduce the heat to medium then add the coconut and cook for 1 minute. Add the chilli powder, turmeric, ground coriander, salt, tamarind, sugar and coconut milk and cook, stirring, for a further 2 minutes.
4. Add the crab meat, mix well and cook for 3 minutes, then serve immediately. I enjoy it on crispy toasted sourdough bread, but you can also serve it with rice or any Indian flatbreads of your choice.
Romy Gill MBE is an Indian chef, food/travel writer and broadcaster based in southwest England. A regular chef on BBC1’s Ready Steady Cook, she has appeared on several other TV shows, and regularly contributes to national and international publications including BBC Good Food, The Telegraph, The Sunday Times and The New York Times.
Romy Gill’s India: Recipes from Home was published by Quadrille (£28) in September 2024.
The wines to drink with Kekada Masala
By Fiona Beckett
Aromatic rather than hot, this spicy crab dish isn’t quite the challenge to wine it might appear, but I’d still be thinking white or maybe rosé rather than red. Coconut has a particular affinity with Viognier, so that – or a Viognier blend – would be my starting point, but Riesling could equally well be a great pairing. I’d be inclined to go for the slightly more floral style you find in the Pacific Northwest – I remember drinking Charles Smith’s Kung Fu Girl Riesling at Romy’s restaurant in Thornbury just outside Bristol and it was perfect with her food (Ch Ste Michelle’s Eroica Riesling would also be perfect). German or Austrian Riesling would work well, too, though – as would ever-flexible Grüner Veltliner or Hungary’s versatile Furmint. New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is bold enough to power through spicy flavours, too, so don’t rule that out if you’re a fan. Or a dark, off-dry rosé – the kind you often find in Portugal – is a good match with Indian food. Even a fruity sparkling rosé: South Africa has some good examples.
Wines selected by our Decanter experts