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Decanter’s Dream Destination: Hostal de La Gavina, Costa Brava, Spain

Every month, Decanter selects a must-visit destination for wine travellers. This time, Julie Sheppard recommends a luxury escape on Spain’s Costa Brava, where guests can discover Michelin-star food and explore the wineries of DO Empordà.

Perched on the Mediterranean coast in northern Spain, Hostal de La Gavina transports guests back to the glamorous heyday of the Costa Brava. Opened as a family-run ‘hostal’ with 11 rooms in 1932, it was a Hollywood hideaway in the 1950s and even became a film set for Liam Neeson’s 1930s detective film Marlowe.

Black-and-white photographs of famous former guests such as Elizabeth Taylor set the tone for your stay. Today La Gavina’s 74 rooms and suites retain their luxe glamour, with polished parquet floors, silk upholstery, Venetian Murano glass lamps and Italian marble bathrooms. It’s easy to feel like the star in your own movie here.

You’ll also receive star treatment from the hotel’s helpful staff – whether you’re breakfasting on the terrace or relaxing by the outdoor pool with views over the bay of S’Agaró. There’s also an indoor pool at Gavina Spa, a haven of tranquillity with sauna, massages and signature Valmont beauty treatments.

Beside the sea

Feeling active? Water sports including kayaking, paddle-boarding and water-skiing take place on Sant Pol beach, just below the hotel. Or simply take a relaxing stroll along the beachfront, beside jaunty rows of white vintage beach huts.

Make a beeline for La Taverna del Mar, just two minutes’ walk from the hotel, with its breezy white-and-blue interiors and perfect sea views. Open from June to September, the range of fresh seafood dishes here includes tuna and turbot ceviche, salt-crusted sea bass and Catalan specialities such as squid with artichoke and asparagus.

After lunch head for the Camí de Ronda coastal path, which begins at the foot of Hostal de La Gavina and is part of the Mediterranean Path (GR92). This long-distance trekking route crosses Catalonia from Cap de Creus to the Montsià mountain range on the border with Valencia. Follow the coast around the small Punta d’en Pau peninsula on a trail lined with pines and tamarind trees.

A taste of Catalonia

Candlelight restaurant

If you’ve worked up an appetite, La Taverna del Mar is just one of the dining options at La Gavina. Expect light Mediterranean dishes at the poolside Garbí Restaurant or visit El Barco for tapas and sandwiches. But a highlight of your stay will be a decadent dinner at Candlelight, with its menu devised by Romain Fornell, chef at Michelin-star Caelis in Barcelona.

Fornell’s creative tasting menu features seasonal dishes and luxury ingredients. Think canapés of crispy chicken skin with shrimps and bone marrow; white asparagus with beurre blanc and caviar; or tortellini of langoustine and foie gras. Food is paired with bottles from an extensive wine list showcasing local wines from Catalonia – including a great selection of Cava and Corpinnat sparklers – plus other Spanish regions.

Food and wine will be a star attraction of your visit to the Costa Brava. The region is home to 18 Michelin stars, including three-star El Cellar de Can Roca in nearby Girona. The hotel can arrange culinary tours of the city to explore the local cuisine.

Look out for the sign ‘flequers artesans’ which signals shops and cafes offering local artisan ingredients and dishes. Seek out xuixo – breakfast buns filled with crema Catalana, which are a Girona speciality. Don’t miss the vibrant market – and if you can’t get a table at El Cellar de Can Roca, drop by Rocambolesc ice cream shop for an affordable taste of Jordi Roca’s sensational desserts.

Wines and vineyards

For wine lovers, Hostal de La Gavina makes a good base to explore the vineyards and wineries of DO Empordà. Bordering France, the winemaking here has much in common with its French neighbour Roussillon. Garnatxa and Samsó (Carignan) – both red and white – are the most common grapes.

The hotel will arrange bespoke visits to local wineries such as Clos d’Agon, which is just a 20-minute drive away. Vineyards here were planted in 1989 by the winery’s original Franco-Belgian owners, who introduced French varieties Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne, plus international grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.

Today Peter Sisseck consults and the engaging Miguel Coronado makes the wines – which don’t use the DO name since the grapes aren’t authorised by DO regulations. Enjoy a picnic among the vines, with bottles such as Viognier-Marsanne blend Valmaña and top rosé Alba del Tinar, a blend of Grenache Gris and Cabernet Franc.

Further north is Terra Remota, owned by Marc and Emma Bournazeau-Florensa. This 54ha organic estate also has vineyards planted with French and international grapes. Look out for its signature red Camino, a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. A winery tour and tasting costs €22, while a picnic with wines in the vineyard is €26.

From the vineyards of Empordà to the Michelin stars of Girona and beaches of S’Agaró, a stay at Hostal de La Gavina showcases all the Costa Brava has to offer.

Rates from €380 (£324) per night for a Superior Double Seaview Room, including breakfast. For further information, see the Hostal de La Gavina website.


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