Cristaldi: Understanding the signature ‘Rutherford Dust’ and how to spot it

Russian-born enologist André Tchelistcheff – whose name still evokes a hushed reverence among California winemakers – famously once quipped that ‘it takes Rutherford Dust to grow great Cabernet Sauvignon .’ ‘Rutherford Dust’ is a term that’s now so inextricably intertwined with Napa Valley’s Rutherford sub-appellation that in 1994 – several decades after Tchelistcheff’s remark – it inspired the name of the Rutherford Dust Society (a non-profit association of winegrowers and vintners dedicated to the promotion of the AVA). Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores of some top Rutherford wines [subscriber-content]While relatively small at just over 15 square kilometres and 1,600 hectares under vine, Rutherford’s name looms large in the annals of Napa Valley and California wine history. Certain vintages dating back more than 80 years are often cited among the greatest wines ever released in the Americas, including the 1941 Inglenook Cabernet Sauvignon, 1970 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon , and the 1985 Caymus Special Selection. [caption id="attachment_540560" align="alignnone" width="1300"] The Quintessa estate. Credit: Mike Battey for Quintessa[/caption] What exactly is ‘Rutherford Dust?’ As explained in Maestro: Andre Tchelistcheff and the Rebirth of Napa by James O. Gump, it was André Tchelistcheff who coined the term ‘Rutherford Dust’ as a shorthand for the region’s unique terroir; a tell-tale clue that could be recognised in the bottle by experienced tasters. For many wine professionals, Rutherford Cabernet has undeniably ‘dusty’ and mineral qualities to its tannins, giving it a unique mouthfeel, even when compared to Cabernets sourced from nearby Oakville and St. Helena. Critics have long noted the ‘dusty’ quality of Rutherford Cabernet tannins, which often combine stony mineral aromas with fine-dusted cocoa powder without diluting the palate’s silkiness. A definitive scientific link between Rutherford’s soils and those dusty tannins might elude us. However, sampling enough top-end Rutherford reds makes it difficult to imagine that unique quality coming from any other region in the world. What makes Rutherford so unique? Much of the Rutherford terroir rests on the valley floor, at Napa’s widest point between the Vaca and Mayacamas mountain ranges. It’s a geographic location that awards vineyards with ample sun exposure, even by California standards, with over 3,000 growing degree days and enough sunlight for grapes to achieve high phenolic ripeness levels before late-season pest or disease pressure begins to over-stress vines. At the same time, cooling fog influence from San Pablo Bay 35 kilometres south, coupled with strong diurnal temperature shifts of more than 6°C helps maintain acidity and mitigate the heat. It’s a true ‘Goldilocks’ zone for premium Cabernet Sauvignon, with temperatures often cooler than Napa Valley regions to the north, and warmer than those to the south. Those who planted vines early in Rutherford’s history hit literal wine pay dirt. The conditions proved quite favourable to vine health and longevity, so much so that Rutherford boasts some of the longest-running continuously farmed vineyards in Napa Valley. A handful of those sites are responsible for sourcing some of Napa’s most prestigious reds, particularly Beaulieu Vineyard, J.J. Cohn Estate, and Morisoli Vineyard. While many factors converge to make Rutherford a special Napa Valley area, Quintessa winemaker Rebekah Wineburg points out" ‘Special doesn't mean good. It needs to be deciphered. That kind of puzzle needs to be formed and understood. And at the same time be replicated year after year.’ [caption id="attachment_540610" align="alignnone" width="1300"] The vines at Bella Oaks. Credit: Matt Morris[/caption] [breakout] Rutherford AVA at a glance: Appellation established: 1993 Total AVA area: 6,650 acres (2,691 hectares), centrally located in Napa Valley, primarily on the valley floor located at the widest part of the Napa Valley AVA. Area under vine: Over 1,600 hectares (4,000+ acres) Number of producers: 48 Vineyard altitude: 47-152 metres above sea level Key white varieties: Sauvignon Blanc Key red varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot Average yearly temperatures: 10-35°C Average annual rainfall: Approximately 965 mm. Noteworthy vineyards: Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III, Beaulieu Vineyards, J.J. Cohn Estate, Morisoli Vineyard, Hewitt Vineyard, Sacrashe Vineyard Notable producers: Alpha Omega, Bella Oaks, Beaulieu Vineyard, Cakebread Cellars, Caymus, Flora Springs Winery & Vineyards, Frog’s Leap, Grgich Hills Estate, Honig, Inglenook, Mumm Napa, Peju, Provenance Vineyards, Quintessa Winery, Round Pond, Scarecrow Wine, Sequoia Grove, Staglin, St. Supery Vineyards & Winery, Sullivan, Swanson, Toquade Wines, Whitehall Lane. [/breakout] Geological churn Much of that decoding has gone into analysing the complex soil makeup of Rutherford’s best vineyards for ideal farming practices, which inevitably leads back to that ‘Rutherford Dust’ character in the wines. The soils result from millions of years of geologic churn, which created a complex alluvial fan known as the Rutherford Bench. Part of that soil complexity is due to an ancient landslide off the Vaca Mountain range. ‘It wasn't just a simple landslide’, explains Wineburg. ‘The white soils are pure volcanic ash, the lytic ash that flowed continuously over the western face of the Vaca mountains. On top of it was sandstone, some shale, volcanic rocks, and, interestingly, some conglomerated alluvium. The uplift and the volcanic activity happened quite fast.’ Throw in ample gravel deposits, loam, and Franciscan marine sediments, and you have the formula for naturally well-draining soils that force Cabernet vines to create a deep root structure in search of moisture – the perfect combination of factors to grow premium wine grapes for age-worthy fine wine. Notable Rutherford producers: [caption id="attachment_540561" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Quintessa's winemaker Rebekah Wineburg. Credit: Mike Battey for Quintessa[/caption] Quintessa Quintessa was founded in 1989 by renowned Chilean vintners Agustin and Valeria Huneeus, who planted vines there in 1990. Today, the winery is part of Huneeus Vintners, which owns Benton Lane, Faust, Flowers, Leviathan, and Favia. Quintessa’s 113-hectare estate includes 64ha of planted vines, divided into three primary sections – the Eastern Hills, a mix of ancient volcanic uplift, sandstone, shale, and alluvium stemming from the Vaca mountain range; Central Hills of gravel and cobbles surrounding a lake, and a clay, sand, and gravel Bench surrounded by native woodlands. Twenty-six separate vineyard blocks are organically and biodynamically farmed. Rebekah Wineburg and consultant Michel Rolland work together in the cellar. For the Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Carménère, Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc vines on the property, the team is ultra-focused on micro-expressions of terroir. Slow, meticulous re-plants are hyper-focused on pruning and rootstock choices, all to ‘better reflect the terroir and be as transparent as possible for the next 30 years’, says Wineberg. Sullivan [caption id="attachment_540612" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Jeff Cole of Sullivan Rutherford Estate. Credit: Jak Wonderly[/caption] James O’Neil Sullivan founded the 10.5ha Sullivan estate (on a site that Tchelistcheff helped select) in 1972, immediately gaining notoriety by employing architect John Marsh Davis to design his home and production facility. In 2018, the estate was acquired by a family partnership led by Juan Pablo Torres Padilla, who was inspired by a visit to Burgundy legend Romanée-Conti and chose the site after a three-year search of more than 100 properties. Padilla brought in Peter Michael veteran Joshua Lowell as General Manager, Schramsberg alumnus Jeff Cole as winemaker and veteran Vineyard Manager Mike Wolf. They soon set about replanting the estate to take better advantage of its prime Rutherford soils, noting that, ‘Jim Sullivan loved the over-the-top style, but our goal was to make big category wines in a more refined and elevated way’, says Padilla. Their quality focus continues with the acquisition of the coveted Criscione Vineyard in St. Helena (once a source to BOND). Cole’s immense talent in the cellar shows a deft hand at balancing power with gorgeous Rutherford minerality. Beaulieu Vineyard BV’s enigmatic founder, Georges de Latour, made a fortune selling cream of tartar, a byproduct of tartaric acid residue. After selling the business in 1900, he purchased the property that would become Beaulieu Vineyard – a name coined by Latour’s wife, Fernande. In 1903, they bought a property that would start it all – BV Ranch Number 1. Meanwhile, de Latour was importing vinifera vines grafted on St. George Rootstock from his nursery in Paris. Their 100 years of history make them one of Napa Valley’s longest-running wineries, and legendary late cellar master André Tchelistcheff is widely regarded as reinventing what we now know as modern winemaking during his tenure. Beaulieu Vineyard wines have been served to Presidents, Queens, and Princes, and the flagship Georges de Latour Private Reserve (produced since 1936) has taken on particular historical significance as an early example of a top-tier California Cabernet. Today, Chief Winemaker Trevor Durling is tasked with carrying on their impressive legacy. [caption id="attachment_540707" align="alignnone" width="1300"] A Rutherford icon for over 100 years, Beaulieu Vineyards. Credit: Tubay Yabut Photography[/caption] Bella Oaks Bella Oaks founders Belle and Barney Rhodes were early pioneers of the now-standard single-vineyard, icon-level Cabernet Sauvignon offering, once selling Cabernet to Heitz Cellar. They also helped to set the standard for wine education and food and wine hospitality, which today is a primary driver of tourism to Napa Valley. Their largely untold history attracted current owner Suzanne Deal Booth, founder of The Friends of Heritage Preservation, who purchased Bella Oaks in 2010. After selling fruit to the neighbouring Staglin Family Vineyard, Deal Booth decided to reinvigorate the Bella Oaks brand, bringing in Winemaker Nigel Kinsman (of Araujo and Wheeler Farms) and blending consultant Michel Rolland, along with vineyard manager David Abreu. Morisoli Vineyard The Morisoli Vineyard is a contiguous 21ha site planted on ancient alluvial runoff from the Mayacamas Mountains, neighbouring Inglenook and Joseph Phelps. Still family-owned, this grower-producer is run by third-, fourth-, and fifth-generation family members Melody, Gary, and Christopher Morisoli, whose Swiss ancestor, Rocco Morisoli, settled in the area in 1883. Longevity is the lynchpin for the Morisol team. Vineyard foreman Jose Garcia has been with them since 1989, and longtime Beaulieu Vineyard winemaker Joel Aiken has consulted since 2009. Producers who buy their grapes include Sequoia Grove, Amici, Trujillo, V. Sattui Winery, Taub Family, Etude, Elyse Winery, and Robert Biale Vineyards. [/subscriber-content] The wines of Rutherford: 10 top bottles [wine-collection] Related articles Realm Cellars and Napa Valley’s last fairytale founding The Chappellet family and the forging of Napa’s Cabernet identity Napa Valley Cabernet 2021: Full report and buyer’s guide to the vintage’s finest wines

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