Michaela Morris is one of the first certified Italian Wine Experts through Vinitaly International Academy in 2015, who co-created the curriculum for VIA’s Italian Wine Maestro course. She holds the WSET Diploma and is the new Regional Chair for Piedmont at Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA).
As such, Morris was perfectly positioned, along the shore of Lake Michigan, to share an impressive collection of Italy’s white wines at the first edition of Vinitaly USA.
The 2024 competition, which took place in May, featured more than 18,00 wines from 57 countries judged by leading international experts.
Morris explained the rigorous judging process to attendees before diving into the wines. The DWWA prides itself on using independent judgement, by a collection of tasters who taste flights of wines blind and then discuss the results.
Michaela Morris presents to a full masterclass at Vinitaly USA. Credit: Vinitaly USA
Wines awarded Gold medals (95-96 points) are grouped by category and re-tasted blind in a second round of judging. The best are elevated to Platinum (97-100 points) which are re-tasted again by the Co-Chairs, who finally pick out the Best in Show wines. Just 50 wines were designated Best in Show out of the more than 18,000 judged.
As usual, it was a strong year for Italian wines in 2024. Italy finished with six Best in Show wines, coming fourth behind France, Australia and Spain. However, it was the wines of Italy that took home more Platinum medals than any other country. Italy led the way with 18 medals, followed closely by Spain with 17 and Australia with 10.
While Italy’s grand reputation is built on the red wines of Tuscany, Piedmont and Veneto, Morris sought to highlight the country’s diversity in terms of region and variety.
Vinitaly made its debut in the USA at Navy Pier in Chicago. Credit: Vinitaly USA
For the masterclass, Morris selected six white wines, all of them Platinum and, in one case, a Best in Show, a Bellone, from Lazio’s Casale De Giglio. A wine that surprised the judges at this year’s DWWA.
‘None of us saw this wine coming,’ said the judges. ‘A total surprise from the indigenous Bellone grape grown in Lazio in Central Italy, just to the southwest of Rome itself. The grape has often been made in a slightly sweeter style in the past, but this example is full and firm, lightly oaked, and made in a food-friendly, dry style. Suppose you have a soft spot for the Central Italian whites of Frascati, Castelli Romani, Marino and the Colli Albani. In that case, you might recognise its limpid, faithfully grapy aromas and soft honeysuckle charm,’ they said.
‘That alone wouldn’t be enough to propel the wine to a Platinum medal and a Best in Show appearance,’ the judging team added.
‘What makes the difference here is the substance, concentration and drive of this wine, together with the haunting subtlety of its aromatic profile. It’s absolutely (we felt) a wine for fine dining and the table, and the soundness and innate generosity of its flavours combined with the fact that it is not disconcerting or confronting in any way gives it a strikingly wide range of gastronomic applications. It deserves a wider audience.’
The six masterclass wines
The six wines in the masterclass were personally picked out by Morris, representing a variety of regions and styles.
Monte Rossa, Cabochon Brut, Franciacorta, Lombardy 2016
Platinum, 97 points
70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Nero
Bewitching layers of melon, apple and lemon cradled in a creamy, buttery richness. Supple and stylish with a fine drive of acidity and ravishing mousse to delight and inspire. There is a little salty lift on the long finish. Alc 12.5%
Muzic, Valeris Friulano, Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia 2022
Platinum, 97 points
100% Tocai Friulano
Magnificent layers of smoky-toned golden fruit and delicate floral hints swirl and disperse over the creamy, juicy texture and voluptuous structure. Oozing freshness and zest with a salty mineral element which steers towards the finish line. Alc 13.5%
Gini Sandro E Claudio, La Froscà, Soave Classico, Veneto 2021
Platinum, 97 points
100% Garganega
Gorgeous swathes of succulent melon, pineapple and pear overlay a chorus of burgeoning smoky minerals. Ample and sapid with a delightful purity of fruit, a rippling freshness and a breath-taking floral character on the finish. Outstanding! Alc 12.5%
Casale Del Giglio, Anthium Bellone, Lazio 2023
Best in Show, 97 points
100% Bellone
Alc 14%
Cantina Terlano, Terlaner Primo Grande Cuvée, Alto Adige Terlano, Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol 2021
Platinum, 97 points
65% Pinot Blanc, 33% Chardonnay, 2% Sauvignon Blanc
Mesmerising tropical mango, pineapple and melon cascade over the delicious grassy, floral undertones. Glistening with poise and elegance with a stunning mineral structure and citrus acidity, it is simultaneously rich and incredibly refreshing with an astonishing length. True perfection. Alc 14%
Florio, Vergine Riserva VR1898, Marsala, Sicily 1998
Platinum, 97 points
100% Grillo
A delectable toasted almond and walnut husk intensity overlaps myriad dates, dried figs, and prunes. It is well built and momentous with tangy citrus acidity, which surges through the succulent texture and weaves towards the long finish. Alc 19%
Credit: Vinitaly USA
Attendees at the packed event were stunned at the calibre of the wines, as Morris’ selections challenged conventional thinking about what Italy is doing best.
The white wines are exemplary, each showing greatness for varieties and regions that far too often take a back seat to the more trusted red wine classics.
