Raising the standard: traditional Château Calon-Ségur
Traditional, aristocratic, reserved, Château Calon-Ségur long languished in the shadows, but now its fortunes are changing. James Lawther MW examines the upwardly mobile third growth
One of the oldest properties in the Médoc and the most northerly of the crus classés, Château Calon-Ségur is anything but a 'fashionable' estate. With its twin-towered aristocratic château, French gardens and conservatively discreet ownership, 'traditional' is more the word that comes to mind. The wines, too, classic, long-lived and displaying all the vagaries of vintage, have generally been dubbed with the same time-honoured epithet. This, though, could all be set to change for, behind the scenes, the wines and the estate are being given the sort of judicious face-lift that will set them up for the modern era.