In 2023, Michaela Morris and the Barbaresco consorzio organised a 10-year retrospective of the 2013 vintage.
Below, you can find Michaela's tasting notes and scores for 65 wines (70 were tasted but five were deemed faulty) from this unique tasting, listed in score order.
| Producer | Appellation | Vintage | Score | Notes | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Albino Rocca | Barbaresco Ronchi (Barbaresco) | 2013 | 97 | The top wine in this blind retrospective, Albino Rocca’s Ronchi shows the 2013 vintage in its best light. Evolving gradually yet harmoniously, it is firm without being unyielding and is as powerful as it is poised. Top notes of rose are joined by liquorice root, chestnut and dried mint. The deep, pristine palate brings in dark cherry and stony minerals. Tight-knit tannins and glistening acidity shore up this confident class act. And there's plenty of flesh on the bones for a lengthy stint in the cellar. I was impressed when I tried Albino Rocca’s range in 2016, and it is gratifying to see how this has soared. Click to see full details | |
| Gaja, Sorì San Lorenzo | Barbaresco Secondine (Barbaresco) | 2013 | 97 | Bought in 1964 and declared as a single-vineyard 1967, Sorì San Lorenzo occupies the steeply sloping Secondine MGA. As with Sorì Tildìn and Costa Russi, between 1996 to 2012 it was labelled as a ‘mere’ Langhe Nebbiolo. Now back in the Barbaresco fold, this is the deepest, darkest and most brooding of the three. Yet while the nose is reticent, the palate is voluble. It exhibits the tar of Nebbiolo along with gunpowder tea, flinty stone and sweet oak spice. It's full and fleshy in blackcurrant fruit but still tightly wound up in those broad, sturdy yet sophisticated tannins. Click to see full details | |
| Castello di Neive, Vigna Santo Stefano Riserva | Barbaresco Albesani (Neive) | 2013 | 96 | Recognised as a vineyard almost 300 years ago, Santo Stefano is widely considered one of the greatest sites in the Langhe hills. With a privileged south to southwest exposure in the central part of Albesani, its sunny site is mitigated by the nearby Tanaro river. Produced from 50-year-old vines, the 2013 is properly garnet yet still vibrant, heady and haunting. A mix of balsamic herbs, forest growth and a stony minerality builds on the palate, and chiselled, muscly tannins lend some brawn. However, in an act of dexterity, this lands with class and refinement. It has the signature austerity of the vintage while lingering with iron and cool mint. It has really blossomed since release and should continue to do so. Click to see full details | |
| Produttori del Barbaresco, Riserva | Barbaresco Asili (Barbaresco) | 2013 | 96 | One of the cooperative’s nine MGA bottlings, the Asili is composed of grapes from three grower members from a total of 2.28 hectares. Just starting to reveal itself, the 2013 emerges with autumnal scents of chestnut and hazelnut, then pressed wildflower and poignantly pure red cherry as it unfurls. Sweet forest berries through the mid-palate are securely girdled by steely tannins, with an intense strawberry essence finish. It's commanding and all-encompassing, yet that bracing acidity keeps it effortlessly afloat. Sculpted and refined, this is true to vintage and place. A wonderful representation of Asili. 13,333 bottles made. Click to see full details | |
| Rizzi, Boito Riserva | Barbaresco Rizzi (Treiso/ San Rocco) | 2013 | 96 | At the top of the Rizzi MGA, the Boito vineyard is like a geological island: rather than the area’s sandstone soil, it sits on deep marly clay rich in limestone, giving a powerful expression of Nebbiolo. Yet the 2013 also demonstrates its seductive and refined characteristics. One of the top wines in this retrospective tasting, it is evocative in its embracing fragrances of truffle, dried cherry and raspberry, moss, subtle tar and smoke. A twist of mint brings freshness to the ample palate, where voluminous chalky tannins firmly frame the core. There is still a touch of austerity to the structure as well as the vintage’s punchy acidity, but both bode well for the wine’s future. Click to see full details | |
| Bruno Rocca, Riserva | Barbaresco Currà (Neive) | 2013 | 95 | Luisa Rocca says the grapes for this took forever to ripen. The family finally harvested in mid-October, which is unusual for the estate. Grapes were destemmed but left whole and given a 50-day maceration followed by long ageing in French oak casks. An utterly haunting bouquet of tea, truffles and tobacco leads seamlessly to the elegantly proportioned palate. Powdery, sandy tannins frame the velvety core of fennel- and orange-infused strawberry, finishing with purity and class. Acidity is brisk and mouthwatering. This is just coming into its drinking window and will dole out its pleasures over the next 15 years. Click to see full details | |
| Cantina del Pino | Barbaresco Albesani (Neive) | 2013 | 95 | Though rooted in the heart of the Ovello MGA with a picturesque view to the town of Barbaresco, Cantina del Pino branched out to the neighbouring commune of Neive, launching this Albesani bottling in 2005. It is typically the most powerful and richest of the range, but the 2013 has shown great balance from its release, with sufficient fleshy fruit to assuage steely tannins which have started to unfurl but remain resolute through the core. Ultimately polished and finessed, its vibrant acidity keeps everything in focus. Scents of toasted hazelnut, green tobacco and rose incense bring perfume to the palate. Lovely. Click to see full details | |
| Gaja, Sorì Tildìn | Barbaresco Roncagliette (Barbaresco) | 2013 | 95 | Paying homage to Angelo Gaja’s grandmother Clotilde Ray, Sorì Tildìn hails from the top of the Roncagliette hill. The high density, vertically oriented site was planted in the 1960s and first bottled separately in 1970. The south-facing amphitheatre is a heat trap giving a generous richness to the fruit as exhibited here by the dark, fleshy cherry backdrop. It is nuanced by roasted coffee, scented herbs and a savoury saltiness, with almost a beef stock meatiness. An energetic tangy bite lifts the mid-palate before dense, powdery tannins take hold; just starting to dissolve and cede to the saline finish. Click to see full details | |
| Bruno Giacosa | Barbaresco Rabajà (Barbaresco) | 2013 | 94 | While Bruno Giacosa made a Rabajà Barbaresco until 2006, this new bottling comes from a half-hectare plot purchased in June of 2013. The small dimension required a new cask of 27 hectolitres for ageing, and Bruna was concerned it didn’t have sufficient time to season. Bottled with the white label rather than as a red-label Riserva, it's as intensely perfumed as it is expressive in flavour: tobacco, smoky tea and persistent mint lead into the spice-tinged dark-fruited palate. The tannins are vigorous and grippy, eventually yielding as they expand with powdery texture. A thrilling sweet tanginess rises through the core, and hints of wood poke through – but there are no loose ends in this tight-knit Barbaresco. Still plenty to give. Click to see full details | |
| Ca' Rome, Chiaramanti | Barbaresco Rio Sordo (Barbaresco) | 2013 | 94 | With vineyards in both Barolo and Barbaresco, Ca’ Rome’s holdings in the latter are located exclusively in the Rio Sordo MGA. From these, the Marengo family makes three separate bottlings, and Chiaramanti corresponds to a half-hectare, south-facing plot planted in 1978. Beautifully scented, the 2013 opens with dried violet, pressed rose and a twist of pepper. The palate is all brawn: assertive Nebbiolo tannins show their grip and dry grit, while stony minerality pierces through the compact core. Quite thrilling backbone and balance here. Click to see full details | |
| Cascina Luisin, Sorì Paolin | Barbaresco Basarin (Neive) | 2013 | 94 | In Piemontese dialect, ‘sorì’ signifies the best exposition of a slope, and the estate bases the Paolin bottling on their precipitous, south-oriented vineyards in the Basarin MGA. At 10 years old, this has a timelessness to it. Neither youthfully backward nor fully evolved, it demonstrates classy restraint. The emphatic tannins of the vintage are played at lower volume, and there are no hard edges. Still silky in texture and elegant in structure, the wine is gracious now yet possesses sufficient insulation to continue ageing. Click to see full details | |
| Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy, Camp Gros Riserva | Barbaresco Martinenga (Barbaresco) | 2013 | 94 | Sole owner of the 17-hectare Martinenga cru, Marchesi di Gresy crafts an MGA bottling as well as two selections from distinct plots within it. The Riserva emanates from the southwest-facing Camp Gros which abuts Rabajà. It sees a 30- to 40-day submerged cap maceration, and ageing for one year in French barriques followed by 18 months in large cask. Intriguingly restrained, this flirts with scents of brushwood, raspberry and heady truffle. The palate is midweight and sinewy in silhouette yet expansive and agile. It continues its seduction, offering up dried rose petal and cinnamon-infused strawberry, while wood notes are well-absorbed. Breed and confidence are evident. Very satisfying. Click to see full details | |
| Gaja | Barbaresco | 2013 | 94 | Gaja has never stopped producing Barbaresco, and in 2013, the classic bottling is the amalgam of all 14 of the estate’s parcels: 11 in the township of Barbaresco, and three in the township of Treiso. It includes some of the zone’s most exceptional MGAs, such as Ovello, Montefico, Rabajà, Asili and Faset in the former, and Pajorè in the latter. Complex and articulate, the bouquet is gorgeously animated, resonating with raspberry, wild strawberry, pepper and liquorice, while developing tones of sweet fragrant earth, iron and dried autumn leaves are just starting to nudge through. The palate is still corseted but not without give, and the chalk-textured tannins are long and drawn across to the finish, with lively acidity pulsing throughout. Click to see full details | |
| Marchesi di Barolo | Barbaresco Serragrilli (Neive) | 2013 | 94 | The historic Marchesi di Barolo’s estate has been producing this Serragrilli Barbaresco since 2006. The gentle, southwesterly slope with a significant presence of sand concentrates the season’s warmth. The 2013 is an introspective wine that evokes the autumn with a gentle smokiness alongside brushwood and rosehip. It is still ruby-tinged, with that relative youthfulness following through on the palate. Mouth-filling with an assertive structure that is neither drying nor angular, the chalky texture intrigues – as does the lingering perfume of pressed gardenia. Uplifting in acidity and ageing well. Click to see full details | |
| Paitin, Sorì Paitin | Barbaresco Serraboella (Neive) | 2013 | 94 | Registered as a vineyard in 1978, Sorì Paitin comprises the mid-section of the Pasquero-Elia family’s holdings in Serraboella. Oriented southwest on layers of sand and marl, it is their steepest and warmest plot. Place and winemaking style have always yielded an austere and steely Barbaresco requiring long ageing, and the 2013 still needs time. It has evolved enough to flaunt pure cherry and raspberry, but this is far from fruity. Dark bitter chocolate and hazelnut lend intrigue. As tightly wound as the mineral-driven palate is, the proportions are balanced and there is more than sufficient sinewy substance to last out another decade. Tannins are resolving nicely. Click to see full details | |
| Sottimano, Riserva | Barbaresco | 2013 | 94 | Besides 2013, Sottimano has only produced a Riserva in the 2004, 2010 and 2015 vintages. It brings together fruit from the oldest vines in the estate’s Cottà and Pajorè holdings. A long maceration of 50 days was followed by ageing in barriques. It is exotically scented first, showing vanilla and strawberry, then peppermint tea, sage and smoke, before dark earth and iron. A full charge of dark fruit is met with irony, assertive tannins that are chalky and grainy in texture. Forceful and robust but not rustic or unfriendly. Click to see full details | |
| Ca' del Baio, Riserva | Barbaresco Pora (Barbaresco) | 2013 | 93 | Ca’ del Baio owns a tiny sliver of Pora – just 0.3ha of vines planted in 1948. Bottled separately since 2004, it ages in used barriques, given the small size of the plot. The nose is striking in its melange of dried tobacco, Lapsang tea, nutmeg and vanillin. On the palate, a dark forest berry backdrop is accented by sage and evolving nuances of tar. This is mouthfilling and broad in the shoulders. Grainy, chewy tannins are at the fore, and brisk acidity accentuates a mineral streak. I imagine it will always be a little stern. Only 700 bottles produced. Click to see full details | |
| Cascina Baricchi, Rosa delle Casasse Riserva | Barbaresco | 2013 | 93 | Along with Elvio Cogno’s Vigna Elena Barolo, Cascina Baricchi’s Rosa delle Casasse is a rare wine made from 100% Nebbiolo Rosé. Long thought to be a pale-coloured clone of Nebbiolo, it was recently determined to be a closely related but different grape variety. Its distinct profile was conspicuous in the blind tasting: the colour is fragile garnet, yet penetrating perfumes and flavours emerge with such purity and clarity; a gorgeous profile of raspberry, rose, liquorice and strawberry. This seems impossibly youthful, and it's impossible not to not to be charmed by its joyful expression. The tannins are silky and plush, giving a fine, chalky frame. I do find bottle variation with Cascina Baricchi's wines, but this example was stunning and pristine. Click to see full details | |
| Giuseppe Cortese, Riserva | Barbaresco Rabajà (Barbaresco) | 2013 | 93 | Gabriele Cortese bottles a Riserva only in years he deems ‘classic’– seven to date since 1996. It's assembled from 70-year-old vines within the Rabajà MGA, where the winery is located. After fermentation in cement, it matures in the estate’s oldest Slavonian oak casks, averaging 40 years. Released in 2020, this 2013 starts with the prettiest of aromas that are almost primary in expression: pure raspberry and blackberry notes are surprisingly fresh for such a long-aged wine. Much more backward, the palate is nonetheless equally youthful, particularly in its rigid and seemingly unmovable structure. It will need another couple of years to truly reveal its charms. Click to see full details | |
| Marco & Vittorio Adriano, Riserva | Barbaresco Basarin (Neive) | 2013 | 93 | A selection made in superior vintages from the estate’s 20-year-old vines, as with the non-Riserva Basarin bottling this matures in 30hl casks – though for six months longer. It shows more tertiary nuances of smoke, incense and cured leather, along with a distinct balsamic rosemary note. A serious wine, this is full and hearty with a sweetness of dried red cherry. The tannins have lost their stern edge through the mid-palate, yet still finish with an assertive powdery grip. Click to see full details | |
| Oddero | Barbaresco Gallina (Neive) | 2013 | 93 | Mariacristina Oddero says they typically harvest a week earlier than their neighbours in Gallina to preserve acidity and aromas. Certainly, the nose on the 2013 is attractive and compelling. A potpourri of orange blossoms morphs into sweet spice before taking on deeper earthy and leather characteristics. This comes across as light and ethereal, then long, lean muscles wrap around the palate. Flavours of dried raspberry and stony minerals persist, carried by scintillating acidity. Very elegant, it displays all the loveliness it hinted at upon release. Click to see full details | |
| Piazzo, Vigna Giaia Riserva | Barbaresco Nervo (Treiso) | 2013 | 93 | An early ripening site within the Nervo MGA, Vigna Giaia has been vinified separately since 1995. The steep, south-facing slope on calcareous-clay marls gives mightily structured wines, making it a natural for the estate’s Riserva bottling. Ageing in small barrels is manifested in an overlay of vanilla and nutmeg but there is space for savoury nuances of sage, bay laurel and smoky tobacco as well. The palate is tense and angular, sporting the vintage’s – and the cru’s – signature austerity, along with the tangy acidity of just-ripe forest berries. Click to see full details | |
| Poderi Colla | Barbaresco Roncaglie (Barbaresco) | 2013 | 93 | The Colla family owns eight of Roncaglie’s 13 hectares, using just the oldest Nebbiolo vines, between 40 and 50 years old, for this Barbaresco. The warm south- to southeast-facing amphitheatre on calcareous marl and sand confers restrained and austere wines when young, and this 2013 is still holding back. With persuasion, subtle fragrances of chai and alpine herbs unravel. The palate packs a steely punch, with stern tannins which eventually relinquish their clutch to allow a core of pure raspberry essence to be revealed. Rather than heavy or full, this is profound and commanding in its refinement. It was a simmering beauty when born, and still is today. Click to see full details | |
| Cascina Morassino, Morassino | Barbaresco | 2013 | 92 | The Bianco family is among the oldest winemaking families in Barbaresco, yet tiny Cascina Morassino is under-the-radar. The estate totals just 4.5 hectares, mostly in the Ovello MGA, with one hectare in Cottà. The estate Barbaresco is ageing tremendously well: magnanimous fragrances of violet and lilac are tinged with hazelnut and tar, making for an intriguing mix that verges on wild. Quite a substantial palate, it's packed with fruit and solid, sturdy structure to match. Balance is notable, though a drying element rears its head on the finish. Click to see full details | |
| Ceretto | Barbaresco Bernadot (Treiso) | 2013 | 92 | With almost five hectares in Bernadot, Ceretto crafts this MGA bottling from their parcels in the highest reaches, directly below the town of Treiso. Evolving appropriately, this captivates with dark chocolate-tinged strawberries, savoury spice and dried rose. Soft, integrated tannins glide smoothly across the palate and there's a mineral-like sensation on the backend. A wine of subtlety, it's midweight and discreet yet classy and satisfying. This spent its first year in small French barrels (20% new) followed by another year in large casks. Click to see full details | |
| La Ca'Nova | Barbaresco Montestefano (Barbaresco) | 2013 | 92 | Brothers Marco and Ivano Rocca own one precious hectare in Barbaresco’s revered Montestefano MGA and until 1995, the family sold the fruit to the legendary Beppe Colla at Prunotto. Marco prefers to harvest late for phenolic ripeness, however, in 2013 he had to pick quickly on 10 October as berries were separating from the stems. There's a gamey, savoury meat character on the nose, with shy hints of dried florals lurking underneath. It's seductive on first entry, with a substantial charge of developing fruit laced with iron, leather and exotic Pu’er tea. The tannins are smooth overall – but there are lots of them, and I'm just looking for a bit more tension and tightness from this hallowed site. Click to see full details | |
| La Spinona, Riserva | Barbaresco Faset (Barbaresco) | 2013 | 92 | Now in the hands of the fifth generation, La Spinona produces a Riserva from a 0.5ha parcel in select vintages only. Prior to this 2013, releases included 2012, 2009 and 2001. With just enough volatility to lift aromas to fascinating rather than freakish, this bursts with violet and lilac potpourri. As top-notes subside, savoury and mature nuances of leather, bay laurel and Lapsang tea take hold. Ruggedly built, the palate is all structure over fruit, though not dried out. Dense, powdery tannins layer up yet somehow remain proportionally balanced. A museum piece of Barbaresco from another era. Click to see full details | |
| Marco & Vittorio Adriano | Barbaresco Basarin (Neive) | 2013 | 92 | The Adriano family possesses over five hectares in the large MGA of Basarin. The steep, southeast-oriented slope on the region’s classic Sant’Agata marl is renowned for giving particularly ageworthy Barbaresco, and this 2013 is no exception. Scents are evocative of an autumn morning with brushwood and hazelnut infusing sweet forest berries. The palate is almost as austere as it was in its youth: steely, firm and holding tight, it could still do with another year or two in bottle. Click to see full details | |
| Produttori del Barbaresco | Barbaresco | 2013 | 92 | Assembled from a selection of grapes cultivated by 54 grower members controlling over 100 hectares, all within the township of Barbaresco. Fully garnet with tertiary aromas are followed by leather, tar and balsamic herbs with dark berry compote on the palate. There's no lack of tannins here, though these are smooth and mouthcoating. Crisp acidity keeps things lively, leading to a firm and savoury finish that's even a touch saline. Approximate annual production is 300,000 bottles. Click to see full details | |
| Punset, Campo Quadro Riserva | Barbaresco San Cristoforo (Neive) | 2013 | 92 | Bottled separately since 1985, Punset’s Campo Quadro vineyard sits at the highest reaches of the San Cristoforo MGA. It typically sees slightly less maceration time than the Basarin but longer ageing in wood, which in this case, is French oak tonneaux. It is overtly cherry and forest berry in character with undergrowth and bitter alpine herbs to ground. A vanilla streak shows up on the muscular-edged palate. The structure builds up and fastens tight as the intrinsic tannins of this site make themselves known. Aromas start to reveal the wine’s age as it sits in the glass, but the framework is steadfast. Click to see full details | |
| Rizzi | Barbaresco Pajorè (Treiso) | 2013 | 92 | Enrico Dellapiana recalls waiting until the end of October to harvest Rizzi’s Pajorè holdings in 2013. Full ripeness and healthy bunches allowed for an extended maceration of 35 to 40 days with the cap submerged – two weeks longer than usual. It is drinking beautifully now: floral scents of rose and dried citrus blossom make way for accents of orange oil and exotic braising spices, though these are delicate. The palate is equally pretty, demonstrating a lighter, finer style of Barbaresco with a lovely chalky texture and tangy finish. I recommend enjoying over the next five years. Click to see full details | |
| San Biagio | Barbaresco Montersino (San Rocco / Treiso) | 2013 | 92 | While the San Biagio estate is located in the Barolo township of La Morra, the Roggero family owns a small slice of Montersino at 380 metres. Aged in French oak tonneaux, the 2013 opens with some spicy wood nuances that cede to an enticing mix of cherry, wet soil and persistent incense. The palate is smooth, showing mellowed, pliable tannins that tug gently around the edges. Clean and crunchy, this charms with inner-mouth perfumes of rose and orange. Good depth and substance too. This is absolutely accessible now but there is no need to hurry. Click to see full details | |
| Socre' | Barbaresco Roncaglie (Barbaresco) | 2013 | 92 | Socre’ was for a long time one of just two owners declaring a Barbaresco from the renowned Roncaglie MGA. The estate counts three hectares here, with the oldest plantings dating back to 1959. The 2013 is in a charming stage of its evolution, particularly in its aroma profile. Accents of cocoa infuse blood orange peel and dried purple flowers. The palate is more robustly sculpted than the nose suggests, and after a surge of fruit, a wall of unwavering structure takes hold. The tannins are tight and stony but not unripe, and they glide into the mineral-driven finish. This has lived up well to its early potential. Click to see full details | |
| Cascina Luisin | Barbaresco Asili (Barbaresco) | 2013 | 91 | With generations of winemaking history in Barbaresco, the Minuto family owns prime vineyards in the neighbouring MGAs of Asili and Rabajà, where the estate is located. In the former, 65-year-old vines soak up the sun of the southwest. Pretty is the first word that comes to mind with the 2013: potpourri, allspice and raspberry compote notes are all very enticing. Tannins caress rather than grate in this light-on-its-feet Barbaresco, and there is definitely a jauntiness to the acidity along with lovely airy finesse. Click to see full details | |
| Castello di Neive | Barbaresco Gallina (Neive) | 2013 | 91 | In the heart of the old town, Neive’s 18th century castle has been owned by the Stupino family since 1964. Among the estate’s extensive range, this bottling from the renowned Gallina MGA has been produced since 2008. The 2013 is showing its maturity with shades of garnet and attractive scents of cocoa, coffee, dried cherry and walnut. Sweet fruit and leather suffuses the palate, but this is fine-boned rather than rich. Traces of wood flit in the background, and there is still rigidity to those tannins. Worn in but not worn out. Click to see full details | |
| Cigliuti | Barbaresco Serraboella (Neive) | 2013 | 91 | Cigliuti makes two Barbaresco from southwest-facing plots at 350 metres. Vie Erte comes from sandier soil, while Serraboella boasts more clay. The latter, made from 55-year-old vines, is always the more muscular of the two and among Barbaresco’s most vigorous wines. The 2013 is intensely fragrant, offering up dried violet, rose, Earl Grey tea, nutmeg and forest undergrowth, yet the structure is still massive: rugged, slightly bitter tannins clamp down on the dark berry core. I’d give this at least another couple of years in the cellar to temper those tannins further. Click to see full details | |
| Manera, Riserva | Barbaresco | 2013 | 91 | Produced from the estate’s oldest vines, this Riserva sees a long maceration of 35 days. Ageing in new barriques is evident as generous wood spice mingles with notes of chestnut forest, hazelnut and mint. A macerated cherry character speaks of very ripe fruit and follows through on the palate, where there is enough richness to flesh out the sturdy structure. The tannins are dry and chalky, and will continue to provide a solid frame for drinking over the next five to six years. Click to see full details | |
| Punset, Riserva | Barbaresco Basarin (Neive) | 2013 | 91 | Marina Marcarino has been at the helm of Punset since the early '80s. She immediately converted the estate to organic viticulture and gained certification in 1991. She favours long spontaneous fermentations with a submerged cap maceration. After lengthy ageing in Slavonian oak casks, the Basarin is mellowed and earthy. Dark wet soil, chestnut and smoky tobacco notes smoulder on the nose. Midweight yet expansive, the palate is built around a core of wild strawberry. It's buoyant in acidity and finessed in structure, though the tannins dry out on the finish. Click to see full details | |
| Rizzi | Barbaresco Nervo (Treiso) | 2013 | 91 | Rizzi is one of three producers bottling a Nervo Barbaresco. Stretching over a precipitous slope, it is one of the few corners in the Barbaresco zone on sandstone rather than blue clay. The estate’s four hectares look south, reaching 370 metres. The 2013 is classically taut and evolving slowly – still ruby-hued and fresh on the nose. Aromas of rose, cocoa and hazelnuts make a subtle appearance. Slim in build with a rigidity accentuated by a mineral stoniness and piercing acidity, this is just as linear and tense as it was when it was first released. It will always need food. Click to see full details | |
| Angelo Negro & Figli | Barbaresco Basarin (Neive) | 2013 | 90 | Boasting centuries of grape growing history, the Angelo Negro estate is deeply rooted in Roero. However, in the 1970s, the family had the opportunity to buy four hectares in Basarin planted in 1951. A touch aloof, the 2013 slowly measures out intimations of balsamic herbs, cedar and savoury coriander spice. The palate reveals its mineral-flecked red berries more readily, yet is still hemmed in by a tight grip of grainy tannins. A cloak of oak clings to the edges, with lingering wood notes on the finish. Click to see full details | |
| Bera, Riserva | Barbaresco Basarin (Neive) | 2013 | 90 | One of three single-MGA Riserva bottlings, Bera's Basarin is derived from 60-plus-year-old vines on calcareous-rich clay. It had a lengthy stint in 25hl casks then in bottle before its release in 2020. An exotic bouquet of nutmeg and liquorice with pine and balsam wood rises from the glass. The palate is a touch confected in its red fruit before nuances of tar take over. Layers of grainy tannins give shape, then warming alcohol rises toward the finish. Click to see full details | |
| Cascina delle Rose | Barbaresco Tre Stelle (Barbaresco) | 2013 | 90 | Assembled from four plots in the sunny south- to southwest-facing section of Tre Stelle, this Barbaresco sees a spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel followed by ageing in untoasted Slavonian and Swiss oak casks. The 2013 currently offers plenty of earthy appeal, with scents of forest undergrowth and leather backed up by a meaty gaminess and an iron note on the palate. It's in a mellowed groove now, though the tannins are not shy. The finish is ever so slightly drying but easygoing elegance wins out. Expect a satisfying drink over the next four to five years. Click to see full details | |
| Marco & Vittorio Adriano, Sanadaive | Barbaresco (San Rocco) | 2013 | 90 | A blend of fruit coming from plots with a southwestern exposition in the Rizzi and Rocche Massalupo MGAs of San Rocco Seno d’Elvio (Sanadaive in local dialect). This is always the estate’s most approachable Barbaresco and the 2013 is ticking along in its development at an appropriate pace. While still ruby in hue, a mellowing bouquet of tea, tobacco and cooking spice is starting to show signs of maturity. It is much more ample than other examples from this corner of the denomination, and even chewy in tannins. Savoury and smoky on the finish. Click to see full details | |
| Michele Chiarlo | Barbaresco Asili (Barbaresco) | 2013 | 90 | In Barbaresco’s revered Asili MGA, the Michele Chiarlo estate has pieced together three separate plots totalling one hectare. Planted in 1990, all three face south to southwest, with an average elevation of 250 metres. With a deep brick tinge and oxidative notes, the 2013 is showing its maturity though not without appeal. Touches of mocha are joined by cinnamon and leather aromas. A generous, yielding core of plum compote is shored up by firm, enduring tannins, and dried mint nuances linger. There's a lot of substance here, but all is best enjoyed in the near-term. Click to see full details | |
| Pio Cesare | Barbaresco | 2013 | 90 | The historic Pio Cesare estate assembles this Barbaresco from four family-owned plots, but the backbone comes from high altitude holdings in Bricco di Treiso. When I first tried the 2013 shortly after release, it was unrelentingly firm and sombre. That iron-fisted, linear character persists today: leather, metallic minerals and balsamic herbs come out with coaxing, while dry, chewy tannins need more time, though this will never be overtly charming. Those who prize structure will appreciate it. Click to see full details | |
| Cascina Morassino | Barbaresco Ovello (Barbaresco) | 2013 | 89 | The estate’s Ovello bottling is selected from the family's best plots in the MGA. While this depends on the conditions of each vintage, typically the grapes hail from the highest parcels with a southeastern aspect. It seems that power and muscle are prized for this wine, as it wields an iron fist. There is plenty of dark berry fruit to pad out the frame, but nuances are slightly muddled. While ageing is in 25hl casks, a layer of oak coats the palate and that wood exacerbates the dryness. Click to see full details | |
| Cecilia Monte | Barbaresco Serracapelli (Neive) | 2013 | 89 | Cecilia Monte has been running her eponymous estate since taking over the family property in 2000. She farms 3.5 hectares in the far northeastern reaches of Barbaresco, in the Serracapelli MGA. There is a garnet colour to this 2013 to match mature aromas and flavours of tobacco and tea, yet the palate is still rigid. While this isn’t ageing completely in unison, it does have appeal. The savoury scents and tactile texture offset the caramel nuance on the palate. Open over the next two to three years. Click to see full details | |
| Moccagatta, Bric Balin | Barbaresco Muncagota (Barbaresco) | 2013 | 89 | Bric Balin is a westerly oriented amphitheatre within the Muncagöta MGA, which is Piemontese dialect for Moccagatta. This barrique-aged Barbaresco has been produced by the Minuto family since 1985, although it was originally bottled as a Vino da Tavola. It is a rather confounding wine: overt tertiary bouillon aromas suggest a fully developed wine, yet the palate is still imposing in structure. There's ample substance to fill out the frame but – like the aromas – flavours are evolved. Coffee and potpourri infuse dense prune plum, while mid-palate sweetness is clipped by dry tannins. I am not sure it will ever be completely harmonious. Click to see full details | |
| Orlando Abrigo | Barbaresco Montersino (San Rocco / Treiso) | 2013 | 89 | From the rather heterogeneous MGA of Montersino, this divulges the warm southern exposure of Abrigo Orlando’s various plots. Barrique ageing is still evident and obvious as toasty oak and clove notes hover atop. It has always been a fleshy, fatter wine but now, at 10 years old, once-vigorous tannins have become soft and velvety. The raspberry compote core is accented by chocolate and tar. Ample underlying acidity keeps it from being heavy. Nonetheless, it's ready to drink. Click to see full details | |
| Orlando Abrigo, Rongalio Riserva | Barbaresco | 2013 | 89 | Bottled as a Riserva since 2011, Rongalio comes from a two-hectare single vineyard within the Meruzzano MGA. The southwest-inclined site was planted in 1984 on mineral-rich clay, which tends to give a sturdy, firm expression. The 2013 remains dense, concentrated and mouthfilling. While it lacks some focus on the nose, the palate proposes hints of tobacco and savoury spice on a backdrop of plum. Slightly angular tannins dry out toward the finish. Click to see full details | |
| Piero Busso | Barbaresco San Stunet (Treiso) | 2013 | 89 | Piero Busso’s 1.5-hectare plot in San Stunet is oriented to the southeast on limestone-rich yellow marl. It sits at the MGA’s upper altitude, a fresh 400 metres. The 2013 vintage makes for a rather chiselled and sinewy expression with almost-ripe tannins showing a hint of green grittiness. Nevertheless, it's expressive and characterful. Intense balsamic scents of mint, rosemary and pepper greet the nose, with crisp cranberry joining in on the palate. The young Pierguido started working alongside his father in 2010, and the estate has established itself as one of Barbaresco’s rising stars. Click to see full details | |
| Ressia, Bottiglia del Anniversario | Barbaresco | 2013 | 89 | A special bottling released in 2017 to mark Ressio’s 20th anniversary, this selection stayed a lengthy three-and-a-half years in barriques. Opening sweet spice accents of cinnamon and nutmeg are nuanced by mocha and just a hint of savoury bouillon. Fully charged, the cocoa dusted dried cherry core is balanced by a generous, robust structure and an acid tang. The finish is redolent of dried autumn leaves. Will please those seeking a hearty style of Barbaresco. Click to see full details | |
| Socre' | Barbaresco | 2013 | 89 | Despite being landowners in Barbaresco since 1869, the Socré label wasn’t born until Marco Piacentino took over the estate in 1990. Crafted from south- to southwest-facing vineyards between 250 and 290 metres, the estate Barbaresco is refined in used French barriques. The decidedly garnet hue is matched by mature aromas of savoury bouillon and forest undergrowth laced with vanilla oak. The midweight palate comes across as a bit hollow in fruit, yet rigid irony tannins stick to the mouth. While this is by no means tired, it doesn’t suggest further improvement with ageing. Click to see full details | |
| Ceretto | Barbaresco Asili (Barbaresco) | 2013 | 88 | Purchased in 1973, Ceretto’s Asili holdings total just one hectare – however, these sit in a privileged position at the top of the hill reaching 290 metres and boasting a 360-degree exposure. While Ceretto’s 2013 Bernadot is gracious and can be uncorked now, the Asili seems to be in a grumpy phase: it is shrouded in wood and demonstrating force without any of its characteristic elegance. Perhaps longer in the bottle will help it resolve – this certainly has the structure for cellaring. Click to see full details | |
| Masseria | Barbaresco | 2013 | 88 | Not to be confused with Vietti’s Masseria Barbaresco, the much lesser-known Masseria estate was founded at the beginning of the century by third-generation growers and brothers, Stefano and Alessandro Giordano. Already fully garnet, their 10-year-old Barbaresco wafts attractively with wet forest floor, dried leaves, tobacco and slightly smoky overtones. It is trim, light and tart in acidity, yet not without charm. Rustic tannins are grainy in texture. Drink over the next two to three years. Click to see full details | |
| Quazzolo, Riserva | Barbaresco | 2013 | 88 | Danilo Quazzolo took over his family’s estate in 2012, bottling his first Riserva the following year. A selection of grapes from parcels with different exposures in the large Ovello MGA, it is simmering with pent-up ambition. Second-use tonneaux make their presence known with an explicit shroud of vanilla and grainy wood tannins. However, the cherry and raspberry fruit is pure, its electric acidity gives spark, and that compressed coil of tannins is polished. It isn’t clear if or when this will all spring into alignment, but the raw material is there for Quazzolo’s future. Click to see full details | |
| Ressia | Barbaresco Canova (Neive) | 2013 | 88 | Established in 1997, the Ressio estate is comprised of five hectares, all within the Canova MGA at the eastern limits of the Barbaresco zone. This bottling hails from steep, southerly plots on the western flank of the ridge. Showing a garnet hue, the 2013 is marked by aromas of wood spice, dried orange peel and incense. Conveying its warm exposure, the palate is full, robust and awash in tannins which, dense and dry, suggest a vigorous extraction. Perhaps a bit more time will soften these out, but you want to catch it before the fruit fades. Click to see full details | |
| Tenuta Carretta, Cascina Bordino Riserva | Barbaresco | 2013 | 88 | Since 1992, Cascina Bordino has been part of the Carretta estate. At the eastern edge of the Treiso township, it is not designated as an MGA, though its steep, sandy, southeast-facing slope has long been recognised for high quality Nebbiolo. A pale, fragile brick hue belies the intense bouquet that ensues: a sweet/ savoury contrast of vanilla, rosehip tea and capers. Slim in build, the palate is built around a cranberry and redcurrant core. The fruit is mature, and the tannins have relaxed their grasp though a dry, sandy texture remains around the edges. Lacks a bit of vibrancy. Click to see full details | |
| La Biòca, Lurens | Barbaresco Secondine (Barbaresco) | 2013 | 87 | The first vintage of this wine, Lurens hails from a tiny slice of the Secondine MGA, right next to the source of Angelo Gaja’s Sorì San Lorenzo. The garnet hue heralds in aromas of coffee, chocolate and wet leaves. Soft, forward fruit is characterised by cocoa-infused sweet cherry with a slight bouillon edge. A thick frame of oak meets a wall of endless tannins; nevertheless, this is best drunk soon. Following the 2013 vintage, Lurens has been made as a Riserva. Click to see full details | |
| Musso, Riserva | Barbaresco Rio Sordo (Barbaresco) | 2013 | 87 | With their cellar located right in the village of Barbaresco, the Musso family counts 10 hectares located largely on the township’s western slopes. The 2013 Riserva comes from the limestone-rich soils of Rio Sordo. Two years of ageing in 50hl casks was followed by a further nine months in untoasted tonneaux. The nose is decidedly lifted, suffused in sweet, pressed blossoms with hints of dark chocolate wafting in. Upfront cherry compote is wrapped in a glossy layer of oak then collides with vigorous tannins. This just seems a little overworked. Click to see full details | |
| Pietro Rinaldi, Massirano | Barbaresco (Neive) | 2013 | 87 | Rather than being one of Barbaresco’s 66 MGAs, Massirano is a small 45-year-old vineyard within the township of Neive bottled solely by Pietro Rinaldi and aged in 25hl Austrian oak casks. Exuberant in its floral accents, this wafts with violets and dried lilac before a more savoury character takes hold. On the edge of being a little wild, the palate is nonetheless clean with a very slim build, resolved tannins and a tangy red apple finish. Everything suggests it's a wine to drink now. Click to see full details | |
| Cascina Vano | Barbaresco Canova (Neive) | 2013 | 86 | While this initially comes across as fully evolved, it freshens up in the glass. Nevertheless, macerated red fruit persists. The palate is angular in shape with stiff tannins at the fore, while acidity dominates the finish. It is difficult to pinpoint an optimal drinking window but it's best to err on the side of near-term drinking. Made from 20-year-old vines with a classic vinification, this sees ageing in 20hl Slavonian oak casks. As of 2019, the winery has welcomed in the new generation, Beatrice and Marco Rivetti. Click to see full details | |
| Fratelli Grasso | Barbaresco Vallegrande (Treiso) | 2013 | 86 | Grasso Fratelli is located within Vallegrande and one of just two estates (along with Ca’ del Baio) crafting an MGA bottling. It sees long maturation in 50-hectolitre casks followed by further ageing in stainless steel. Aromas are straightforward, with fading pressed flowers and hints of chestnut wood. While the fruit is rather skinny, there are some rustic, grippy tannins behind it along with sharp acidity. This could do with less extraction and time in wood. Click to see full details | |
| Manera | Barbaresco | 2013 | 86 | Grape growers since the 1950s, the Manera family has been bottling wine from the 2005 vintage. Though not specified on the 2013 label, the estate Barbaresco comes solely from the Rizzi cru, in the township of Alba. Perfumes are subdued and earthy; definitely mature, though not tired. Hints of pressed rose peek out. Still rather stark and rigid, the palate presents as angular, with lean fruit not quite sufficient to cushion stern tannins. Ferruginous accents pervade. Click to see full details | |
| Roberto Sarotto, Riserva | Barbaresco Currà (Neive) | 2013 | 86 | Despite making a range of wines in the Barolo, Gavi and Asti zones, Roberto Sarotto’s roots are in Barbaresco. His single-vineyard Riserva bottling hails from the MGA of Currà in the township of Neive. The 2013 leads with attractive strawberry scents ensconced in toasted oak, cinnamon and nutmeg. Sweet spice and confected red berries repeat on the palate, and there's a softness of fruit juxtaposed with an unrelenting hardness of structure; the latter is poised to long outlive the former. Click to see full details |