Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for all 388 red wines that scored 90 points or above.
Producer
Appellation
Vintage
Score
Notes
Château Beauséjour (Duffau-Lagarrosse)
St-Émilion (1er Grand Cru Classé B)
2023
98
Herbal and dark fruit on the nose, blackcurrant with cocoa powder, liquorice, some exotic spices as well as purple floral notes, peonies and roses. Juicy supple and alive in the glass, this has lift and get go from the start, super clean and precise, lovely bite and grip to the tannins. Fine and chalky, mouthfilling so you get the ample structure but keeps its direction and flow. Power is there for sure, of which some don’t have, but this is also elegant and so precise. The flavour also really lingers, goes on and on. This has a vertical aspect, really layered with muscle and fine sinew. Juicy and succulent, the juicy side is so pure and moreish. Really makes you want another sip. Approachable already. Delicious. A wine that makes you smile as it also has a touch of sweetness and just the length is amazing. Great balance. Julian and Axel. 46hl/ha yield. 3.4pH. Ageing 14-16 months, 60% new oak. 70% grand vin.
Château Bélair-Monange
St-Émilion (1er Grand Cru Classé)
2023
98
Great aromatics, subtle not shouting, not too ripe, definitely more cool and fresh. Smooth and supple, a gorgeous weight and balance in the mouth. Crisp and fresh but creamy and fleshy too. Delicious, minty, racy, chiselled, lots of power but so well balanced, so charming and so sophisticated. Still lots of mint and tension on the finish but wow this is amazing. The tannins are perfection, the juicy strawberry, cherry core is amazing, the texture and tannins are perfect, weight and length is awesome. Great stuff and really focussed on the drinkability. You could drink this today but equally it will age. It just makes you smile and this is amazing. A little burnt orange, bitter grapefruit, mint, slate, graphite. It’s fun and friendly. Great. Controlled and stylish. Lots of oak but this will settle after ageing (14 months in 50% new oak). 3.82pH.
Château Canon
St-Émilion (1er Grand Cru Classé)
2023
98
Deep florals, violets, black fruits, some purple fruits too with cocoa powder and cool fresh blueberries. Smooth and so refined, this has a comfort in the mouth that few others have - a certain weight that defies the vintage almost fleshy but more thick juice rather than lean, with a sweet core as well as biting minerality that provides a great contrast. This is a serious wine, it has structure and movement, great supple tannins, so fine with a touch of chalk, strawberry, cranberry and red cherry fruit with a touch of liquorice spice on the finish. Assured winemaking, ripe fruit, great acidity and body, ending clean and pure with wet stones and graphite touches. Just delicious, a wine that tastes great now and feels like it’ll always be that way. Expansive in the best way. Textured like thick silk. Amazing. Ageing 16-18 months in 50% new oak as well as foudre. 3.42pH.
Château Figeac
St-Émilion (1er Grand Cru Classé A)
2023
98
High toned aromatics, purple fruit, blackcurrant, wet stones and minerality yon the nose, really quite aromatic and alive, so floral, purple flowers, and ripe black fruit with freshness too. Supple and succulent, a good plushness here, not chalky, not chewy but rope and cool at the same time. Hints of dark chocolate, liquorice, blueberry and wet stone also gives the mineral accents. Silky but this wine has amazing texture. Cool and classic, but there’s clear ripeness there. Almost thick, but refined too, better than Cheval. High acidity, great lift and zingy, tannins are present and apparent, gently expanding around the mouth. It’s more serious than usual, a touch more firm, tension. A serous and structured wine, definitely more cool. Quite a singular style again, broad, expansive, but the weight is great and filled with plush dense blueberry fruit with a long, mouthwatering length. Moreish, will be lovely. 3.68pH.
Château Haut-Brion
Pessac-Léognan (1er Cru Classé)
2023
98
A stand out wine from Haut-Brion this year and one of the most charming Primeur samples from the estate. A little sombre on the nose, quiet with dark fruit, blackcurrant and brambles. Not so open on the nose, but this wows on the palate - rich, dense for the vintage, weighty in the mouth, clearly ripe and so filling. Chewy and alive, this is brilliant with a buzz of acidity, a sharp, sour, tartness but all so excellently delivered. So charming and so cuddly, this wine wants you to adore it. Bright and voluptuous, and not many can say that in this vintage. Really so great and still with chocolate, mint, pepper, raspberries, and floral notes all the way through. A complete knock out because it has flesh, juice, brightness and style. 3.7ph 4.3 acidity 80 IPT - second highest year after 2010 for the concentration. 42% grand vin production. A potential 100-point wine.
Château La Conseillante
Pomerol
2023
98
Dark chocolate, bitter toast, blackcurrant, deep, dark and rich tones on the nose. Has both a vibrancy and a richness (something quite opulent and Pomerol about the notes) and a coolness on the nose. Supple and energetic, this has movement and weight, juicy and calm, a nice creaminess, not shouting, like l'evangile, this is more smooth and sophisticated but still with a hit of acidity on the back palate that lifts and raises the expression the whole way through. Great stuff, sleek, mineral - very saline with licks of wet stone, graphite and liquorice giving the slightly bitter edge. But I love the construction. Serious but also fun. Sleek, not rich and fleshy at all, but there’s a thick silkiness to it, nothing harsh, nothing austere or too tart. Really excellent, sweet strawberry, crunchy cranberry and powdery strawberry - lots of brightness and powderiness so you get texture and tension. Another stellar wine from Conseillante. Buzzy and tangy. Delicate expression but it really maintains the flavour and focus. Great drinkability on offer here, with the ripeness people want. After ageing this will have more body and structure and still a lot of acidity. If anything a touch lean and salty on the finish, a tiny tiny bit severe, but this will soften. A vintage to age. 7.5% press wine.
Château Lafite Rothschild
Pauillac (1er Cru Classé)
2023
98
A clear contender for wine of the vintage. Deep, purple colour on the rim. Some soft herbal and floral aromatics, milk chocolate. A real sense of understated power as Lafite does so well. Not so demonstrative at all, but there’s a gorgeous charming delicacy to this - fine powdery blue fruit tannins with edges of liquorice and slate. Smooth and supple, excellent weight in the mouth, light and streamlined, less overt acidity and brightness than Carruades, but still with a mouthwatering centre that gives strawberry and cherry fruit flavours. Ends with subtle graphite and wet stone, long and lingering though. Just delightful, so elegant and finessed. You can feel the density on the finish, the slight weight of the tannins comes at the end, bringing a controlled and quiet power. I love the sense of ease and seamlessness about this wine, it just slips down. 1% of very old Petit Verdot went into the blend this year. 15% press. 3.8pH. 38% grand vin production. Ageing 90% new oak. A potential 100-point wine.
Château Latour
Pauillac (1er Cru Classé)
2023
98
Quite quiet aromatically, some floral scents and soft red and purple berry fruit with accents of liquorice and graphite. Bright and forward, the acidity is at the fore really lifting the frame while the silky, powdery tannins settle around the mouth. This has a subtle power, really comes across as a delicate balance of fruit and acidity and tannins and this comes across harmoniously but with some strictness. I like the bright, tangy expression, it’s streamlined and focussed with finesse, but still all in one line. It’s vibrant and buzzy, super youthful and still oak influenced. It’s not as serious as some Latours at this point but it has that fixed aspect leaving a mineral, graphite and wet stone aspect on the finish. Great length, you're not getting flesh or sumptuousness but you're getting straight and direct fruit - precision at its core. 3.75pH. Ageing 17 months, 85% new oak. The team implemented a new 6m sorting table split into three lines to sort grapes each side before putting them into a ‘clean’ middle line.
Château Léoville-Las Cases
St-Julien (2ème Cru Classé)
2023
98
Bright, gorgeous, expressive aromatics of dark purple and black fruit. A sense of opulence and clear Cab effect on the nose. Supple and agile, juicy and succulent, a rich almost thick cherry juiciness here, fleshy, ripe and cool. Lovely minty, liquorice and graphite undertone that keeps the freshness going to a long finish. It’s a bit bolder than I expect for a LLC and also a bit bigger for the vintage. It’s a bold, characterful style, certainly not missing any body. It’s so charming, this is out to please, certainly not tough or too serious, this is more easy to approach. Lots of herbal elements, pencil lead, graphite and wet stone with cloves and cinnamon. Gorgeous sweet and fleshiness. It’s still compact no doubt, but there’s finesse here. Lifted, chalky on the finish. Well constructed, despite the power it ends clean and lifted. Not hollow. Up there with the best of the vintage. Depth and concentration is a notch up and tannins are great. With 4% Merlot, it’s the lowest percentage ever in the blend - 2022 was 5%. 43hl/ha yield. Harvest September 9 to October 2. 6.6% press. 3.79pH. Ageing 18 months, 50% new.
Château Margaux
Margaux (1er Cru Classé)
2023
98
Quite a herbal nose, full of blackcurrant leaf and bramble fruit, dark chocolate, violets, subtle, not shouting, but interesting. Round and ripe, a nice weight in the mouth, silky, but also like crushed velvet, mouthwatering acidity, so juicy and clean, a lovely texture in the mouth. Not chewy at all, but there’s depth here, a cushioning to the palate. So charming, so gentle, so lively. It's is just so appealing but this will benefit from oak ageing too. Aerial lifted, so intensely juicy. Really carefully made, tannins are wonderful, acidity doesn’t stick out. Brings a smile to your face. You don’t see the heat, bit the fruit is ripe, bt this carries freshness all the way through. Lovely lift on the finish. Completely different in style again to Lafitte and Mouton. But I love. 2% Petit Verdot completes the blend with 4% Cabernet Franc, the highest percentage ever in the blend. 41% grand vin production. 3.6pH, 15% press. Officially certified organic as of 2023. Ageing 100% new oak, 18 months.
Château Montrose
St-Estèphe (2ème Cru Classé)
2023
98
So floral and aromatic, really inviting and welcoming on the nose, more aromatic than some on the nose. Smooth and intense, clearly concentrated but supple and bouncy, there’s movement to this, it’s not strict. So precise, and finessed, you can feel the edges of the fine tannins, so well executed with a mineral grip underneath. You can tell there’s power here, it has muscles but sinewy also. Quite demonstrative really - it’s flexing but keeps such a clear line of focus and cool blue fruit with graphite and liquorice too. A hint of spice on the finish. Round, penetrating, with an excellent weight in the mouth while keeping harmony. Great acidity too, a hint of sweet and just ripe strawberries mostly with crunchy cranberry too. A lot to like here. Great effort with no struggle apparent. Classy and comfortable. 60% new oak, ageing in barrels only for 18 months. It’s excellent. Multi-faceted while still being so juicy and approachable. 3.7pH. 13.6% press wine (300 barrels of press split into seven qualities). Percentage of grand vin is quite low because they decided to use historical part of the vineyard since 2022, so we focus on the 45ha of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon. 35% grand vin in total, mainly from the old vines which is 45% of the vineyard but 35% of the crop. 48hl/ha yield.
Château Mouton Rothschild
Pauillac (1er Cru Classé)
2023
98
Gorgeous red and black fruit on the nose, ripe strawberries, cherries and blackcurrants, really fruit forward and expressive, not so much on the mineral or floral side. Smooth and supple, this is agile and has great movement. A sense of life, depth and richness, but this is so suave. The fruit and tannins fill the mouth but with wonderful coolness - blueberry and crisp cherry. Lots of liquorice and wet stones also come through; graphite, chalk, mint, a touch of toastiness on the finish. It has flashes of exoticism, as well as finesse. Structure and seriousness but with bounce, full of texture and nuance. Tannins have built a broad wine and this is a real success with lots of energy and vibrancy throughout but with no harsh acidity or too lean tannins. Stylish, characterful and executed very well. 11% press wine, last year was 17%. 93% Cabernet in the blend, second highest in history after 2010 which was 94%. 75 IPT. 40% grand vin production. A potential 100-point wine.
Château Palmer
Margaux (3ème Cru Classé)
2023
98
Crazy aromatics, so so full and bright, full of intense scents of pink and purple flowers, damson fruit, clearly ripe no doubt, but no overt heat, some graphite and liquorice on the nose too with some dried herbal Cab notes. Rich, layered, voluptuous, one you could use the word opulent to describe, full of flavour and really fruit forward. Not as overtly juicy as some, more harmonious and balanced, the tannins are perfectly integrated to the fruit and the acidity with the added plushness that the Merlot gives to the blend. Less strictly structured as some with more Cab, but this has great energy. It’s serious and there’s power but there’s also a generosity and charm on show in terms of texture. But it’s focussed too, long length. Something very captivating about this. Lots of cool classicism on the finish with a salty, mineral, oyster shell undercurrent. 55% new oak for the first year in barrel then one year in 30hl foudre. 3.75pH. 13% press. 32hl/ha yield.
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
Pauillac (2ème Cru Classé)
2023
98
Smells divine, lovely lush blackcurrant and black cherry characters on the nose. Pencil led, graphite, liquorice, menthol elements. Very Pauillac on the nose. Gorgeous weight, supple and agile, great movement and energy to this. Almost buzzy, tangy, bright but not over the top, keeps its structure and retains the serious directness from start to finish. Generous licks of minerality, Finessed. Has cool classicism to it, maybe missing some depth on the mid palate. Sleek and refined for sure, but not so fleshy. Cool blue fruits. Not the longest. Winemaker Nicolas Glumineau wants it to be racy and it’s certainly racy. 50% grand vin production, 50% second. 3.67pH, 14.7% press wine only Cabernet. Ageing 19 months, 60-65% new oak and then one wine barrels.
Petrus
Pomerol
2023
98
Gorgeous aromatic profile; a little herbal, inky almost, pencil led, crayon, floral notes of iris and violet, cool blue fruits, mint and fresh raspberry. Some definite stoney minerality on the nose - dark and smoky. Racy and alive, this has zing combined with a chalky graphite grip to the tannins. Fresh and clean, really well defined with tannins that give the structure but despite their presence they're so harmonious. This is just so good, really juicy, mouthwateringly so, but keeps the straight finesse all the way through. It’s soft and totally charming - not over the top at all, yet not discrete either. This has confidence and character. A balance of power and delicacy with a touch of flesh on the finish that gives an extra bounce and sense of enjoyment. A subtle and stealthy wine that sneaks up on you, leaving you wanting more by the finish. 3.65pH. An extra gram of tannins per litre of wine (4g) compared to 3g in 2022. Harvest September 11-20. A potential 100-point wine.
Vieux Château Certan
Pomerol
2023
98
Beautiful purple colour in the glass, vibrant and alive. Great florality, raspberry, cherry, cranberry, lots of fresh red summer berries and lots of aromatics. Broad and expansive on the palate, a little tight and some grip to the tannins. Delicate yet powerful, lovely crushed herbs, mint, sappy and saline. Feels very VCC on the palate, grippy and young, clearly tight, with lots of spice and ripe black fruits. It’s statuesque, structured with no harshness. Delicious, delineated, lifted on the finish effortless and totally moreish. I love it, classicism in the very best way. You have that beautiful cabernet minty spice with clear grippy fruity merlot. Dark sticky liquorice, spice, but there’s something incredible about this wine. Juicy and lively too, this has it all, and I really think this will be a beauty. Excellent. 3.74pH (lower than usual). 4% press wine. Ageing two thirds new oak. 42hl/ha yield.
Château Angélus
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
97
Gorgeous nose, floral and scented, roses and violets, gorgeous strawberries and raspberries, really expressive, some herbal elements. Full and filling, but soft and smooth, almost crushed velvet, this has texture - it’s not so tense and straight but has a solid backbone of freshness and plush fruit but very cool. It’s more on the structure side than acidity, serious but still with crunchy blueberries, chalky blackcurrant, lots of graphite and minerality on the finish. Tannins are present, fill the mouth. Less fruit forward but layered with complexity - a subtle opulence. Fleshy tannins, ripe soft, delicate but present. Still got fruit and mouthwatering acidity, feels a touch sombre, but cool and blue. I do like it a lot. Refined. I feel like it’s missing some more plushness and just that Angelus hug on the mid palate, but you can’t fault the precision on show. It’s got body and length, tannins, crunch, freshness, and a vein of minerality underpinning the expression. It’s cool but the fruit and tannins are ripe and it manages the tightrope of being full but refined. Very good. 3.65pH. Harvest September 14 to October 1.
Château Beau-Séjour Bécot
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
97
Gorgeous bright purple rim. Fresh blueberries and black cherries on the nose, bright aromas. Crayon, pencil lead, tapenade, olive, liquorice. Tangy and so bright on the palate, crystalline and so pure, really clean and just to clear on the palate. The limestone comes through strongly in the wet stone aspects, a metallic coating of the mouth. Has a touch of tension, with mouthwatering acidity, as well as some subtle fleshiness that really expands towards the finish, where the wine settles and grows. A lovely style, very singular style. Great juiciness, almost salty strawberry juice with cranberry and raspberry. So clean and the flavour really lingers. This will grow into a beauty. Tannins are flawless, there’s density but no heaviness. One of the best. The second year with a significant part of massale selection Cabernet Franc in the blend. 39hl/ha yield. 3.5pH, 68 IPT.
Château Cheval Blanc
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
97
Fresh and floral on the nose, cool and crisp aromas. Purple flowers, red and purple berries, crayon, graphite, liquorice. Gorgeous texture on the palate, this has grip and bite, tannins are present and quite imposing, really coating the mouth with a powdery, chalkiness. It has some layers of tannin and ripe fruit but with freshness and lift all the way through. It’s not immediately charming and generous, it’s more controlled, but not strict. Fresh, clean, precise, lacks a little more density towards the finish, just tapering but there’s nice style and finesse and this does pack more power than some. Raspberries, chalky cherries, bright blueberries with wet stones, lots of liquorice and slate. Balanced, contains both warm and cool vintage markers, lots of complexity on offer. It’s missing that gorgeous charm that Cheval does so well, the enrobingness but it’s nicely constructed and at least has some personality. The largest ever vintage in the Cheval cellars with a yield of 40hl/ha. 3.82pH.
Château Ducru-Beaucaillou
St-Julien (2ème Cru Classé)
2023
97
Lovely vibrant purple colour in the glass. Smells fragrant and lifted, a lovely combination of sweet and ripe and fresh blackcurrant and black cherries on the nose with a touch of dark chocolate. Smooth and so silky, but rich too, there’s depth and weight but not too much. I love the texture - grippy and filling no doubt, it coats the mouth but like crushed velvet, you feel the ripeness but there’s such lift and effortless purity of fruit that it feels fresh too. No extra fat, but equally it’s not too lean, not strict at all, where many are. Not hollow, not light, there’s no let up but equally there’s just persistence with hints of minerality, graphite and wet stone. Juicy cherry, blackcurrant and blueberry with lots of liquorice on the finish. Feels well crafted, some chalkiness on the finish along with a lift. Maybe not as moreish as some, but this is really well made. Feels elegant but stylish. I do like the fleshiness and the soft sweetness. 3.7pH. 89 IPT. Ageing 18 months, 100% new oak. 12% press.
Château Gruaud-Larose
St-Julien (2ème Cru Classé)
2023
97
A complete knockout of a wine in 2023. Deep, vibrant purple in colour. Lots of milk chocolate, some exotic spices and black fruit touches on the nose, along with floral scents of roses and violets - smells gorgeous. Supple and filling, immediate weight and texture on the palate, thick silk and ripe fruit, massy but then almost straight away quite clean and crisp. Forward and focussed, tannins supportive but so well integrated into the wine - almost a seamless expression - with plenty of underlying power. It’s delicious. Very drinkable, finessed and restrained, nothing overdone here, no harshness. Everything feels in its place, harmonious. Cherry, blackcurrant and blueberry. Juicy, succulent, high acidity, mouthwatering. A great great wine. Fresh and lifted. I love it because it’s layered, you can feel the sculpting of this wine, It has muscles and feels very ‘put together’. Yes, there’s Cab, but this has a touch of plushness. Filled with a juicy, mouthwatering strawberry juice that you just cannot fail to smile at. Gorgeous mint as well. 40% grand production, taken from 60% of the estate. 15% press wine.
Château L'Eglise-Clinet
Pomerol
2023
97
Crafted from deep rooted vines in both clay with clayey gravel, this estate succeeds like no other in expressing power from this appellation but without any hard or drying tannins, which one can encounter in 2023 from other estates. Cool and confident menthol, bright tangy red berry and blueberry fruit aromas introduce an almost Pauillac like palate whose tannic grip is happily balanced by blood red orange like freshness. Aging in 82% new oak, this wine was made from grapes picked before the September rains: the tannins show no rawness, but rather pristine ripeness. I love the linear focus enveloped with subtle succulence, ending with a long finish. Give it the full opportunity to improve in your cellar, not before 2033, when it will reward your patience fully.
Château L'Évangile
Pomerol
2023
97
Fragrant redcurrant and cranberry. Milk chocolate, vanilla, creamy and fruit and fresh, cherries and plum. Cool and crisp, so much freshness straight away and so sleek, the weight is there in the density of the ripe fruit but keeps a very slick frame. Lovely movement and energy, softly vibrant but also quit rich - a spectrum of cranberry and blackcurrant and plum fruit gives lots of different expressions with liquorice and tobacco on the finish. Chalky and stony, a lovely mineral grip on the finish. Feels sophisticated, has a great balance and sense of sophistication. All in balance, nothing sticks out, suave and elegant. I love it’s gentle expression though, doesn’t shout bit this will be so great to drink and enjoy. I love it. Ends cool blue fruits, chalk and wet stone. Some milk chocolate too. Balanced on a tightrope, delicately, on the side of tenderness and tension, really great. But it has density and a touch of sweetness. Has more finesse than some other Pomerols. 3.8pH. Ageing 8% amphora, 50% new oak, 15% foudre, the rest used barrels. 42hl/ha yield. Green harvests were performed to drop 15-20% of the potential yield, given the team 'had never seen so many grapes on the vines'.
Château La Mission Haut-Brion
Pessac-Léognan (Cru Classé de Graves)
2023
97
Generously scented nose, very floral and perfumed, lovely high aromatics and fully expressive. Blue fruits, red cherries and some plum. Weighty and full, this really leaves a lasting impression on the palate, juicy but not too much, a tiny hint of sourness in the back gives the zing while the structure and the tannins do most of the taking really putting the structure at the fore with powdery, chalky tannins that linger. It’s serious, but no way austere. Weighty but still streamlined. Chocolate, cherry, blackcurrant, feels very calm and confident. Polished and sophisticated, it’s not trying too hard and feels settled in the glass. Slightly chewy, juicy, delicious!! You can help but smile with this. Fruit juice, some minerality, some flesh, but still that clear and straight backbone. Wonderful. 3.8pH. 4.4 acidity. 80 IPT. 47% grand vin production.
Château Lafleur
Pomerol
2023
97
Dark ripe fruits and some savoury touches of tobacco, dark chocolate and clove with wet stones. Violets and irises come in after a few minutes. Nice depth and weight straight away, this has concentration but nothing overdone. Lots of freshness and zing, it’s finessed for sure and it’s impactful in terms of brightness and flavour, but it doesn’t have so much outward fleshy charm that it can have. It’s linear and straight with a slow expansion of elements that comes after a few minutes. Well crafted and long, this stays with you. Beautifully crafted for the vintage, not the most demonstrate which is quite usually for Lafleur. But this has class and is a really ‘classic’ example. High acidity, bite and tang. It’s missing that star power right now but there’s no doubt the sculpting and bite. Crushed herb and salty finish. Some earth and wet stones too.
Château Le Pin
Pomerol
2023
97
Really floral and opulent nose, irises, and strongly scented dark fruits - plums, blackcurrants and black cherries. Really very expressive aromatics, I’d say opulent and so forward. Smooth and so silky, really caressing and gentle, so smooth so delicate, the power is there underneath but subtly while the ripe dark black and cool blue fruit makes most of its mark. The florality and clear iron (really accentuated in a cool vintage) is fully apparent, minerality is also very present with black sticky, spicy liquorice and graphite. It’s a more serious Le Pin, certainly than the 2022, this has muscle but slightly hidden, it’s firm and nicely structured but has edges of spice and tobacco and dark chocolate. This has bite and tang but lovely elevated elegance. It is very spiced. A little taut - tension and focus towards the finish. Serious but sophisticated and confident. Ageing 65% new, 35% once used barrels. Instead of 100%. Extracted one third less this vintage. 3.75pH.
Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion
Pessac-Léognan
2023
97
Extremely floral nose, peony, iris, rose, expressive and aromatic with black fruits too, liquorice, dark fruit, cedar, some black chocolate, coffee bitterness on the nose too. Smooth and supple, nicely weight in the mouth, forward, grippy and bright, has a soft chew, really quite polished and pristine. Seamlessly integrated with the acidity balancing the tannins and the ripe fruit with some mineral wet stone undercurrents and slight bitter liquorice and grapefruit skin on the finish. It’s a little serious (polished), missing some hints of sweetness and flesh for me. It’s brilliant, it does have a soft chew of strawberry and raspberry with stoney-edged tannins. You get that minerality through and for that it does have terroir signature and has that lick of Guillaume. Ripe, fresh, clean, fragrant, sleek, streamlined. Slightly grippy tannins, but sleek. Wet stone. It has a lovely style. Clean and so precise. Ends minty and powdery. Harvest 11-25 September, 60% whole bunch fermentation taking the alcohol down from 14.3% at picking to 13.5%. 3.62pH.
Château Pavie
St-Émilion (1er Grand Cru Classé A)
2023
97
Aromatic nose, clean and clear, lovely pristine black and red fruits, some dark chocolate with violets, graphite and liquorice. Gorgeous succulence, this is so clear and crystalline with some juicy strawberry and bitter orange. A touch of tension gives the backbone and structure - great direction and movement from start to finish. Poised and piercing - so direct - I love the finesse and refinement, everything feels so much more finessed. Layered and complex. Has more than Tripling. So much extra zing and sense of life and energy. Still compact, no doubt, but this will be delicious. Tannins are so fine, really well constructed. 3.66pH.
Château Pichon Baron
Pauillac (2ème Cru Classé)
2023
97
Perfumed nose, fragrant and so scented, a touch of blackcurrant leaf and plum, graphite and dark chocolate. Silky soft, bright and so delicately presented. Crunchy and crisp red fruits and ripe black fruits with some spiced undercurrents and wet stone touches. Much lighter in terms of fruit profile - summer berries, tangy and vibrant with super fine tannins giving the structure and support. This has finesse and power - less plushness and richness than last year of course - it’s more sleek and straight, firm and controlled but still has width and layers of flavour and texture. Refined, and definitely cool. ‘Classicism’ but no overt heat. Great tannins, this is bright, really makes you smile. A hint of strawberry sweetness and tannins that completely coat the mouth. I think this will be great in time, needs a decade. Maybe not so charming right now but there’s no faulting the finesse and refinement. I think they got this right. grand vin 44% production 12% press. 3.7pH.
Château Pontet-Canet
Pauillac (5ème Cru Classé)
2023
97
The longest harvest ever at this estate, and it paid off magnificently: lovely red berry and mint freshness, the Cabernet Franc coming to the fore. On the palate, it shows freshness and gorgeous wet stone salinity that rises above many other Pauillac peers. The acidity is very well managed and felt in a tangy (rather than tart) fashion and the wine exhibits superlative ripe Cabernet Sauvignon with tannic finesse as well as structure for the long haul. Normally the estate needs three or four days to harvest the Merlots but extra care was a taken - picking over a 10 day period for the Merlots - to obtain only the very best for the blend, resulting in veritable juiciness, too.
Château Smith Haut Lafitte
Pessac-Léognan (Cru Classé de Graves)
2023
97
Dark and fragrant nose, scented and intense but not too rich and ripe more cool, dark but crisp and fresh too. Roses, floral elements, pot pourri, very welcoming. Big boned, this has expansion and intensity from the get go, powdery tannins fill the mouth with a juicy core and layers of freshness, mint, graphite, wet stones, herbs, cocoa and liquorice. Not as immediately as suave and soft and caressing as SHL can be, this is more serious, more straight and streamlined. Still finessed but this has muscle to it, forward and direct. It’s a beauty but will need time to expand and soften some more. Still very much on the Cabernet aromatics and power. I do like its density though, there is richness here, it’s not all straight and the tannins are filling. This has lovely potential with chewy strawberry and cranberry flavours. You don’t have the feeling of overt warmth with a cool freshness and touching on austere acidity, but shows freshness and tension as well as ripeness. 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend. 3.65pH. 26hl/ha yield, more or the less the same as usual winemaker Fabien Teitgen said.
Château Troplong Mondot
St-Émilion (1er Grand Cru Classé)
2023
97
The aromatics are incredible - so pure, so clean, so precise, sweet, sour, fresh. Clear blue fruits, wax, crayon, pencil led on the nose, bright and fresh. Vanilla, blackcurrant and plum with blueberry too. Supple and agile, lovely bounce and energy straight away, this has movement and direction. The fruit is pristine, gorgeous succulence and bright berries on the palate before some limestone wet stone elements come in and give the palate a graphite tang. Has that sense of whole bunch, really racy and so electric. It’s not a 2022, it doesn’t have that velvetines that Troplong can have, the soft plush tannins, but this is very good. Straight, great juiciness, clean, poised, elegant and refined. Not shouting, it’s reserved and calm, but confident. You can taste the chalk on the finish alongside liquorice and graphite. I love the finesse and the terroir markers and in change to 2021 it has ripeness and succulence and body. Keeps the tension and direction. An elegant expansion in the mouth. 6% press. Three tanks of whole cluster fermentation. 70 IPT. Ageing 14 months, 60% new oak. 3.45pH.
Château Trotte Vieille
St-Émilion (1er Grand Cru Classé)
2023
97
Dark nose, such a TrotteVieille signature scent. Fragrant, spiced, blackcurrant, deeply scented and heady notes on the nose. Structured and supple, this has energy and movement but with a deep structure, great texture, so precise but it’s the texture that captivates - nothing harsh, not too tart or too acidic, round and plump but not overly plush. A soft chew to the tannins, this is fab! Gorgeous purity and precision, elegant length. Precision and finesse is there, but the juiciness is there, not too much, it’s so well balanced and a gorgeous lick of minerality and saltiness. Feels complete but just toned down a notch, and all the better for it. Feels supremely stylish. 100% new oak. Quite accomplished. 3.4-3.5pH.
Château Ausone
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
96
Really ripe and fragrant black fruit, but fresh too, an element of graphite and liquorice and lots of florality. Really expressive and open. Clean, clear and juicy with a clean, direct, mineral backbone that sustains to a long finish. Missing some star power and a bit more heft, but it’s well defined, finessed and pure. Somewhat subdued, not over trying, very elegant with lovely wet stone elements around the sides and lots of menthol, liquorice, clove and blueberry freshness. Already approachable - this will be delicate and easy to drink. A little tense still but it has a long length. 3.63pH. 39hl/ha yield. Vineyard is organic certified.
Château Batailley
Pauillac (5ème Cru Classé)
2023
96
An exceptional Batailley this year. Cool blue fruits and a graphite nose, salinity and minerality coming from the aromatics. Energy, focus and precision here - it’s straight and linear, the plumpness has gone into Lion but this is focused and direct, really streamlined with precise edges to the tannins and cool blue and bramble hedgerow fruit. It’s quite a serious take, but it has a juicy, almost sweet core of blackcurrant and cherry, with a slate finish. Well constructed, precise, finessed - totally classic. You cannot go wrong with this and for the price it’s insanely good.
Château Brane-Cantenac
Margaux (2ème Cru Classé)
2023
96
Very aromatic, gorgeous florality on the nose, so inviting and welcoming. Really open and generous - roses, violets, peonies, red cherries and strawberries. Supple and juicy, instantly quite pretty and fun, a lively bright aspect to the red fruits - cranberry, crisp green apple, raspberry and strawberry then the fine tannins come into play and give the structure and the focus to the finish. It’s a little less plush than Brane is normally - usually more gentle, fleshy and smooth - this is a little two-toned with influence from the new oak in the tightness but there’s great potential here. Feels a bit more like a St-Julien expression - calm, relaxed, smooth, intentional, juicy and lifted. Less charming right now, more tense and precise. Ageing 18 months, 100 new oak. 13.7% press wine. 40% grand vin production.
Château Calon Ségur
St-Estèphe (3ème Cru Classé)
2023
96
Sweet and fresh bramble berry notes on the nose. Some toast, liquorice, dark chocolate, tobacco, cedar and clove. Succulent and supple, this has a lovely energy and focus but with density and bite at the same time. Chalky, fleshy tannins fill the mouth but at the same time as a liquorice and slate flavour lingers on the cheeks. Both fruity and lean and straight at the same time. Not yet so harmonised, but there’s finesse and refinement to the expression and nothing feels out of place or too much. Has a juicy centre and a touch of sweet strawberries that lift the expression which is so pleasant. Ends clean and grippy. It’s very good and you can't fault the refinement, clarity and precision on show. More Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend than last year at 72%. 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend. 55% grand vin production. 3.7pH. 45hl/ha yield. Ageing 20 months, 100% new.
Château Clerc Milon
Pauillac (5ème Cru Classé)
2023
96
Strong intense nose, some herbal markers and blackcurrants. Gorgeous vibrant colour in the glass, vivid purple rim. Round and full - rich for the vintage, a lovely weight to the texture, yes it’s straight and streamlined but it also has juicy and plummy fruit, acidity that isn't too pronounced or too overt and tannins that grip and take hold. Clean and clear, perhaps not the longest of them all, but there’s an enjoyable lingering wet stone, chalky minerality on the finish. Straight and well defined, this has some chew which I also like, and with time in oak, this will expand. Lots on offer! 1.5% Carménère and 1% Petit Verdot complete the blend. 59% grand vin production. 68 IPT.
Château Cos d'Estournel
St-Estèphe (2ème Cru Classé)
2023
96
Some herbal touches on the nose with dark chocolate, a little exotic with quite dark ripe blackcurrants. Expressive and alive in the glass, weighty and smooth, a great texture and structure to this, more fleshy and ripe than I was expecting with a mineral undercurrent. Lots going on here, less showy as the fruit subsides and leaves some grippy, powdery tannins that linger. Still serious and needs time to come together, a little quiet and intense on the finish. Not so much overt acidity, more power and structure at this point. First time green harvesting since 2008. 12% press wine, less than in 2022. Shorter maceration in 2023, 23 days compared to 28-30 at cooler temperatures. Ageing 50% new oak. In organic conversion. 53% grand vin, 47% second wine. 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend.
Château Haut-Bailly
Pessac-Léognan (Cru Classé de Graves)
2023
96
Such pretty aromatics, gorgeous florally on the nose - roses and peonies, blackcurrant leaf, cranberries and cherries with some plum and black chocolate too. Soft and smooth, sumptuous like Haut-Bailly usually is. Juicy and plump for the vintage, it keeps its defined frame thanks to fine tannins with slightly sharp edges but it also has some softness with ripe fruit and lots of freshness. This is a real success, slightly hot on the finish and a little toasted but this has finesse and complexity with layered of flavour and texture. Stylish and confident. 3.75ph. 6% press wine. 55% grand vin production. Ageing 14-15 months, 50% new oak. 4% Petit Verdot completes the blend.
Château La Fleur-Pétrus
Pomerol
2023
96
Strongly scented, tobacco, tar, dark chocolate, blackcurrant, cedar and olive - savoury. Seamless elegance combined with energy here, lots of life and lift, bright acidity, bright crunchy fruit, great tannins, powdery and filling, providing the support. Still a little compact, but this is clean and concise, persistent and just so easy to see the finesse. Generous but controlled, stylish and chiselled, it has power with a cherry chocolate core, minerality and lots of cool menthol elements. Nice construction and presentation. Lots of drinkability and charm on offer in equal measure. A little powdery on the finish but it’s super long. Top buy!
Château Léoville Poyferré
St-Julien (2ème Cru Classé)
2023
96
Bramble fruit tones on the nose with some floral elements of peony, violet and rose. Smells rich and ripe and quite opulent. Smooth and agile, a lovely energy straight away with bright, almost high-toned fruit, the acidity giving the lift and sense of freshness. Lean and straight but so juicy so you get the relatively tight structure but with mouthwatering acidity and a touch of sweetness adding bounce and pep to the expression. It’s still quite compact in terms of real expansion but there’s a long length. Really suave, almost subtle and dialled back which is great and the juiciness is totally moreish. I love it. Easy, generous, appealing. 52.78hl/ha. 10% press wine. 2% Petit Verdot completes the blend. 55% grand vin production.
Château Lynch-Bages
Pauillac (5ème Cru Classé)
2023
96
Weighty and ripe, but high toned and sharp, a real push pull of tannins, concentrated fruit and acidity. Feels very complete, not necessarily all in harmony right now, this is quite intense, but there’s a statuesque element which is impressive. Both rich and cool with liquorice, graphite, plum, cherry and cranberry. Layers of freshness and a real sense of classicism makes you want to go back for more. More lean and streamlined than 2022, this is focussed and there is bite and edge to the tannins that will settle, but this is very good. 65% grand vin, 25% second wine, 10% third wine. 6% press wine. 2% Petit Verdot completes the blend.
Château Pavie Macquin
St-Émilion (1er Grand Cru Classé)
2023
96
Super fragranced on the nose, really floral and evocative with heady aromas - expressive, ripe and sweet fruit elements too. Super high acidity on the palate, but actually this really works with a soft chalky, powdery bite to the tannins. It’s touching on lean, more straight and less concentrated than Larcis Ducasse at this point. The focus here is the fun, lifted side. So precise, finessed, and detailed with layers of fine tannins, bright fruit and tons of energy yet still with concentration and firm red summer berry fruit. I love it.
Château Rauzan-Ségla
Margaux (2ème Cru Classé)
2023
96
Blue fruits, wax crayon on the nose, some soft floral notes, a little quiet aromatically. Intense and forward, this is bright and focussed, a little more velvety than Segla, this has a verticality but with a deep mid palate that really extends giving more of a feeling of controlled power. Certainly not shouting but this is very polished. Quite a serious take, more dark fruit, less lively crunchy red fruit, A great result with structure and volume. There's a balance between intensity and freshness but all delivered subtly and with class. More Margaux than some others in the vintage, soft tannins give a touch of voluptuousness. Touches of wet stone also linger on the finish. A lot to like here. Feels very Rauzan, very polished, a touch ‘less’ than 2022 of course, but this has great energy and a lot of drinkability. 3.61pH. 60% grand vin production.
Château Tertre Rôteboeuf
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
96
As ever an outlier - with the highest pH among reds tasted in Bordeaux this vintage (3.9!), according to Henri Mitjavile, who drew a sample from a new oak barrel in the dark cellar - this 14.5% alcohol red is a winner! Savoury aromas include violet, aniseed, black cherry skin, and freshness in the form of eucalyptus. 'We harvested late so a bit of a Mediterranean style', he said. But the difference with 2022 is superior freshness, as the ripe and vivid dark and red fruit, delivered in velvety tannins, also comes with quite a bit of energy. Grapes in 2022 had lost 20% of their weight so you felt concentration that was very ripe, but in this vintage, a more even ripening over a longer period of time conveys more balance for this richer style of St-Emilion. Long finish.
Clos du Clocher
Pomerol
2023
96
Beautiful cool blueberry and purple floral scents on the nose - violets and roses but then changes to more red fruits after a few minutes. Extremely aromatic and open, expressive and forward. Quite ripe, this has that Pomerol opulence in terms of ripe fruit notes. Smooth and supple, bright and lively, so clean and pure. Tangy and vibrant, lots of really bright red fruits, cranberries and red cherries. Underlying power with a firm backbone that keeps the direction and sense of push from start to finish. Refined for sure, there’s no overt chew but this does have depth. There’s not the richness of 2023, but this has focus and a precise fruit profile with an enjoyable saline finish. Feels classy and sophisticated. Still has a lot of density though, the fruit is ripe, the tannins are supportive and the acidity is great ending long and cool. A great Clos du Clocher. Harvest September 5 - October 3. 85 IPT. 3.58pH. Ageing 55% new barrels with 10% small concrete vats and wine globes. A yield of 40hl/ha.
Château Angludet
Margaux
2023
95
A brilliant Angludet in 2023. Fresh aromas, smells clean and lively, blue fruit, minty aspects. Soft floral perfumed accent also, very Margaux. Soft and smooth, very open and accessible - this has such charm with a gentle plushness. Feels as if it’s from a ripe vintage, the fruit and tannins are ripe, soft, powdery with bright blackcurrant and cherry. Lovely mint freshness on the finish. It’s gentle, calm, not at all severe or too straight with a drinkable, fresh feeling. Fun and friendly but also serious with underlying power accented by menthol, liquorice, tobacco and cedar spice on the finish. 20hl/ha yield. No press wine. Very light pumping overs. Vinification in concrete. 12 months ageing, 60% barrels (30% new), 40% amphoras. 3.7pH.
Château Bellefont-Belcier
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
95
Wonderful wet stone freshness and vividly floral. Tasted twice, with one sample showing especially savoury aspects but both with polished tannin and impressive structure from the ripe Cabernet Sauvignons, especially. Crafted from grapes picked between 19 September and 5 October, this wine shows superb lift on the long finish, with salinity and freshness, and a hint of fine chocolate leaves the impression of 'contained opulence'. Ageing in 30% new oak, the pH is 3.56.
Château Bellevue
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
95
Gorgeous floral and ripe fruit aromatics leap from the glass, leading to a palate of both juiciness and wet stone minimality. The excellent clay and limestone terroir from this three-hectare vineyard reveals refinement and elegance. The estate took time to carefully pick only the very best Merlots, and it shows in the glass. A wonderful wine in this vintage that proves how Merlot can be successful in 2023!
Château Branaire-Ducru
St-Julien (2ème Cru Classé)
2023
95
Really fragrant on the nose; graphite and liquorice, dark blackcurrant and bramble fruit elements with highly-charged floral aromatics. Smells rich and ripe but clean also. Precise and finessed, this has a lovely energy straight away, great movement and motion from start to finish. Juicy and supple, crunchy, really lovely acidity, not too sharp or too tart with fine tannins that give such a lovely frame. Not dense at all - this is streamlined but is given some weight by the ripe fruit and some texture by the soft stoniness. Pretty and stylish and still packing some power - has a tiny air of opulence about it probably because they’ve used all four grapes with Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc adding complexity. It has a bit more warmth, and a touch of sweetness, than some others which are more straight. I like this a lot, still with freshness and cool undertones. Hints of cedar and spiced mint on the finish with some graphite and wet stone too. 18 months ageing, 60% new oak. 13% press wine. First vintage in the new, gravity-fed cellar. 53% grand vin production. 3.63pH. 51hl/ha yield. 3.5% Petit Verdot completes the blend.
Château d'Issan
Margaux (3ème Cru Classé)
2023
95
Lovely fragrance, dried rose petals and raspberry fruit. Really scented and aromatic - quite inviting. Rich and juicy, a lovely weight with some chew to the expression. I like the charm on show - it’s got that fruit forwardness with licks of minty wet stone as well as fine tannins and mouthwatering acidity. Overall feels quite serious with more power on show than some, a tamed beast right now and you can feel the Petit Verdot in the blend. Round and forward, but still super finessed. This should evolve nicely. 50% grand vin production. 3.66pH. 2.5% Petit Verdot completes the blend. Ageing 50% new oak.
Château Duhart-Milon
Pauillac (4ème Cru Classé)
2023
95
Some herbal bramble notes on the nose, soft dark chocolate, blackcurrant, flowers, liquorice and dark chocolate. Not huge aromatics, quite quiet. Round and smooth, a lovely juiciness but with weight and balance, gorgeous texture - a little salty and stony, a tiny bit grippy but gorgeous overall expansion in the mouth giving flavour without any overt heaviness. Lovely softness but this still has power and energy. Lifted and intense but so finessed. It has broad shoulders with graphite and wet stone touches alongside bramble fruit and great, almost piercing acidity. Lovely. 60% grand vin production. 3.8pH. 15% press. New cellar as of 2020.
Château Durfort-Vivens
Margaux (2ème Cru Classé)
2023
95
Deep dark nose, vibrant and rich, gorgeous floral scents with dark chocolate, plum, black cherry and blackcurrant. Good vibrancy and energy to this. A little sharp at first, then settles and straightens. Tannins are well worked, nothing harsh or austere just bright and on the high acidity style. I like this a lot, has finesse and elegance, gorgeous texture to the tannins, fine but ripe, giving a soft chew. Excellent movement and overall charm. Lots to like here and I just love the vibrancy, the sense of weight, precision and purity. Great stuff. 15% press wine.
Château Giscours
Margaux (3ème Cru Classé)
2023
95
Some clear Cabernet notes on the nose, herbal elements, blackcurrant leaf and cranberry fruit. Smells ripe and cool with gorgeous milk chocolate elements. Energy is the first thing that springs to mind. There’s power here but there’s precision and velvety tannins to this too which gives both structure and brightness. Excellent harmony, this has roundness and depth, not too lean, with crunchy and really present chalky, wet stone tannins. Cranberry and strawberry with blueberry. Still lean, it’s straight but finessed with long, lingering flavours. It’s not as soft and plush as Giscours can be, not as naturally sexy, it’s more serious, but there’s suaveness here. Excellent effort. 3.75pH. Ageing 50% new oak. 70% grand vin production.
Château Jean-Faure
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
95
A 2023 revelation, displaying gorgeous aromatic finesse with ripe red fruit, crushed mint and tobacco, evidently reflecting the majority of ripe Cabernet Franc in the blend. Crafted from grapes harvested between 7-25 September, the wine manages both freshness and mid palate depth. In past experiences with this wine, I have found it too tight for its own good, but two 2023 barrel samples display impressive structure with a velvet glove like coating: smooth tannins. A wine that rises above the vintage character. Long finish, ageing in 30% new oak.
Château La Dominique
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
95
Beautiful floral aromatics, pot pourri and fresh flowers - smells gorgeous, roses, raspberries and red cherries with some milk chocolate and blueberries too. Nicely alive on the palate, upfront and forward, a juicy undercurrent lifting the structure. Clean and clear with a soft chalkiness to the ripe but cool red and blue fruits. Perhaps not as plump as usual, but there’s real finesse to the tannins, fruit and acidity. Lots of wet stones and graphite touches with a minty menthol element at the end. Excellent definition, there’s no faulting the precision on show. Great work from Gwendeline Lucas and winemaker Yann Monties with consultant Julien Viaud. 60% grand vin production. A yield of 49hl/ha. 3.85pH. Earliest and longest harvest at the estate, starting on September 6 until the 28 for the Merlots and from September 28 to October 3 for the Cabernets. Ageing 50% in new oak.
Château La Gaffelière
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
95
A deep nose, floral, so perfumed, lots of ripe black bramble fruit. Concentrated and so full, there’s density on the palate, there’s so much ripe red fruit that fills the mouth with a soft grip to the tannins that support the fruit but doesn't overwhelm. This feels instantly classy, layered and complex with a gentle confidence. It’s round and slightly fleshy, although feels sculpted and muscular with volume, a lovely juiciness and a touch of dark chocolate, cedar and liquorice on the finish. Sophisticated.
Château Lagrange
St-Julien (3ème Cru Classé)
2023
95
Another great vintage from Lagrange. Strongly scented, lots of Cabernet markers, liquorice, toast, cedar, tobacco, some dark chocolate and dark bramble fruit - blackcurrants and blueberries with perfumed accents too. Smooth and supple, almost velvety on the palate, this has a thickness of fine tannins, and plump fruit with a great juiciness. A touch of bitterness on the finish - some iodine notes, oyster shell salinity and some oak toast. I like the plump, almost fleshy aspect, balancing the acidity with a hint of sweetness.
Château Larcis Ducasse
St-Émilion (1er Grand Cru Classé)
2023
95
Vibrant colour. Dark aromatics, something quite alluring about the nose - chocolate, salty stones, blackcurrants. Rich and full, but so smooth, like a thick silk, it coats the palate but so effortlessly, all while having real grip to the mineral-edged tannins. This is packing a lot of power, but keeps a cool edge with a vein of graphite and liquorice minerality. Quite a serious take, this is straight and focussed, very well defined, but not so expansive. I love the hints of sweet and cool blueberries that just lift the expression, dotted with cool but spiced tobacco and clove. A little constricted, but there’s lots to like, and feels a good combination of a hot and cool vintage. 3.55pH. Ageing 45% in 225l barrels, 45% in 500l barrels and 10 foudres. A yield of 432hl/ha.
Château Laroque
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
95
Really perfumed nose, highly scented with purple flowers and dark ripe fruit - blackcurrant, damson plum and black cherry. Deep aromatics with lots of tobacco and clove spice on the nose. It’s heady, strongly scented and alive. Cool and crisp on the palate, smooth, so silky, really effortless in the tannin presentation. Juicy and clean, so bright, but not sour or tart, just the right side, so it’s lifted but not overly austere. Once the acidity calms down in comes the salty, mineral base giving lots of liquorice, wet stone and graphite tones, putting you squarely on limestone. Fruit is ripe and there is the softest chew to the expression but it keeps a relatively sleek frame. A bit minty. I would have thought there was more Cabernet in the blend than there is. It’s not so layered, but it’s certainly finessed and graceful on the palate with lots of precision and movement from start to finish. One that makes you want another sip straight away. 3.42pH. A great wine from winemaker David Suire. A yield of 46hl/ha. Ageing 50% new oak.
Château Lassègue
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
95
Lovely intense and bright nose with violets, cherry, plum and hints of anise. The enveloping palate has subtle concentration and energy, all wonderfully balanced with some minty expressions coming from the 50% Cabernet Franc in the blend. Like Château Palmer in Margaux, this wine rivals a vintage like 2020. Never heavy or powerful but velvety, with Cabernet Sauvignon lending structure for a longer haul, even if it will already be delicious once released in bottle. The orange like freshness, tangy and not tart, with bright cherry and crushed strawberry aspects in a long finish reflet superlative work by Pierre Seillan and his team. Harvested between 18-28 September and ageing in 50% new oak.
Château Malartic-Lagravière
Pessac-Léognan (Cru Classé de Graves)
2023
95
Gorgeous fragrance, quite dark and perfumed, dark chocolate, spice and graphite. Smooth and supple, nicely agile in the glass. Good weight - it’s sleek but this has bounce and great charm. Juicy and lively, but an almost sweet rather than sour juiciness which slowly expands in the mouth. Feels calm and collected, charming and suave. Nothing out of place with just gripping, saline, liquorice and graphite-edged tannins. Still a bit compact on the finish, but this has a long length. Really lovely, streamlined and feels finessed. High definition tannins and long minty finish. 15-16% press. 3.74pH. 50% grand vin production. Yields of 39hl/ha for the reds.
Château Phélan Ségur
St-Estèphe
2023
95
An excellent Phélan. Darkly fragrant, herbal and softly floral with blackcurrant, red cherry and coffee bean accents. Smooth and supple, gorgeous approachability in the juiciness and sense of life. So easy to enjoy this, cool and classic scents of blue fruits and crisp red fruit. Layered, clean and finessed. Svelte, not much muscle but there’s underlying power in the long finish with hints of mint. Extremely balanced and juicy, with a touch of sweetness and freshness and then the cleaning minerality comes through giving a powdery soft ending with elements of wet stone and graphite. Very St-Estephe and very successful. 52hl/ha yield. 60% grand vin, 40% second wine. Two thirds of the wine is vinified with with indigenous yeasts to give more terroir identity. Longest harvest ever at the estate, beginning on September 18 until October 11. 1.5% Petit Verdot completes the blend.
Château Saint-Pierre
Pomerol
2023
95
Gorgeous aromatics on the nose, deep, dark floral scents and black fruit. Supple but richly textured, grippy and fresh, so bright and crystalline. Really pure but there’s grip to the tannins that gives this a wide expression. Not so Pomerol like in terms of its structure - less plush more straight but there’s finesse here with underlying power. Nicely constructed and presented. A little funnelled towards the finish with a real salty, graphite and liquorice tang. Restrained and graceful. Ageing in 58% new oak (225l and 500l), 31% one year barrels and 11% amphora.
Château Séraphine
Pomerol
2023
95
Made from grapes harvested between 8-28 September, this wine exudes lovely notes of violet and ripe cherry, introducing a savoury palate with pristine, smooth tannins, and mid-palate concentration, juicy and bright: one senses subtle richness from the cool clay soils, which are part of this small estate. Deft integration of new oak - ageing in 45% new oak - includes pleasing toasty aspects. Long finish marked by floral and ripe red berry fruit.
Château Trotanoy
Pomerol
2023
95
Dark fragrance, really perfumed and almost exotic on the nose, lively and expressive, rich and opulent on the aromatic spectrum. Smells fresh and clean with cool blue fruit. Tight and compact tannins really set the stage with acidity that doesn't quite match right now. I do like the cranberry and cherry notes but it’s a touch severe and doesn't have as much charm as many at this stage. However, this is built to last with power and great substance, full and filling, just impenetrable right now. Enjoyable cool aspects on the finish. Will be great to re-taste after ageing with an upscore possible.
Clos Fourtet
St-Émilion (1er Grand Cru Classé)
2023
95
Gorgeous fragrance, really ripe and expressive, so floral and perfumed too. Lovely pure aromatic expression. Ripe but juicy raspberry and black cherry fruit - cool and so refreshing. I love the gentle style, it’s smooth with tannins that give body but no weight. More vertical than wide, it’s layered and delicate. Finessed as you expect from Clos Fourtet. Lithe, supple, mouthwatering, a certain density is there and the length is great. Cool but chalky too. There’s power here in the fleshiness but it’s juicy with a touch of oak and enjoyable bitterness on the finish. Ageing 40% new oak, 60% one year used barrels. 3.5pH. 46hl/ha yield.
Domaine de Chevalier
Pessac-Léognan (Cru Classé de Graves)
2023
95
Cool blue fruit and tobacco leaf denote this wine, which packs almost Pauillac like power in 2023, not as overtly charming as it can be. The mid palate depth seems a bit coiled in with some standoffish tannins, but overall brisk and true to the style of the estate, if not a 'sunny vintage' on the palate. In short, a serious Domaine de Chevalier red that needs at least five years of cellaring to fully reward you.
Enclos Tourmaline
Pomerol
2023
95
Gorgeously floral, juicy black fruit and damson aromas presage a classy, polished, fresh and juicy palate. A bit of tightening tannin on the finish, but of the sort that the 100% new oak ageing will soften, indeed the integration of the new oak is superb. Harvesters carefully picked the very best grapes in this small 1.2ha vineyard with blue clay and gravel soils between 15-21 September, and it shows. Only 3,600 bottles produced.
La Mondotte
St-Émilion (1er Grand Cru Classé)
2023
95
Smells amazing - cool blueberries and cherries, milk chocolate. Smooth and round, tart and bright, almost searing, lots of acidity then powdery tannins make their way in with a chalky minerality. But this has some softness and charm, it’s juicy and clean. It softens slightly towards the finish, just tapering, missing a touch more persistence but it’s nicely pristine with lots of layers and depth in terms of texture. Just a bit coiled right now. Should be great in time.
Les Perrières de Lafleur
Bordeaux Supérieur
2023
95
Violet, allspice, tomato leaf, dried herbs, tobacco on the nose with some floral notes and minty freshness. Juicy and lithe, clean and clear. Succulent but so pure and linear - straight and well defined not expansive but pretty and easy to taste at this point. Nothing harsh, all harmonious. Sweet, sour and umami soy flavours - so many different elements going on at the same time with a sweet lift at the end. Given its 100% Cabernet Franc (usually around 70%), this is a little atypical, quite singular, with plenty of interest. So much brightness and energy with an exceptionally long length.
Château Haut-Batailley
Pauillac (5ème Cru Classé)
2023
94
Fragrant raspberries and blackcurrants on the nose with floral touches too. Vivid purple in the glass. Some herbal notes, liquorice and menthol/eucalyptus. Nicely structured, good bounce and flesh but cool and sleek too. I like the weight, enough tannins, well integrated, but gives structure and power. It’s not heavy, really has a clear vein of freshness that is so appealing. Lots of cool blueberry, mint, graphite and liquorice on the finish. Almost chewy, but clean and direct. Finessed but with power and depth. Really very good.
Château Ausone, La Chapelle d'Ausone
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
94
Violet and wet stone aromas presage refined and smooth tannins in a creamy mid palate. In two words: very nice. The wine shows much warmth for the vintage, a welcoming aspect, with rather high 39hl/ha yields - higher than last year. The Vauthier family reported a relaxed harvest, with plenty of time to pick, and - yes - it has a juiciness that rises above all their other wines, save the grand vin. Ageing will only broaden the palate, that has no rough edges, so a potential for a higher score, certainly.
Château Berliquet
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
94
Some damson and plum fruit on the nose, dark scents with blueberry. High toned and zingy, the fruit is forward and alive on the palate, sharp and high toned, really fun and lifted. A nice, open and alive expression centred around the perky summer berry fruit with edges of wet stones, graphite and pencil lead. A bit of waxy crayon in there too. It’s certainly finessed, maybe not as openly charming as Berliquet can be, this has more of a youthful, high acidity style. Tart but well controlled, a really lively glass of wine, so much energy and really does make you want another sip. 3.53pH. First vintage produced in the new winery with more vats for plot-by-plot vinification. Ageing 16-18 months ageing, 34% new barrels and 10 amphoras. A yield of 45hl/ha.
Château Beychevelle
St-Julien (4ème Cru Classé)
2023
94
Fragrant and floral note, fully expressive aromatically with strawberries and red cherries, you can definitely smell the Petit Verdot on the nose - intense. Clean and clear, a lovely weight in the mouth. Smooth but grippy too, tannins are svelte and super fine, this has nice ripe fruit, good body and mouthfeel and a long finish. Juicy, almost fleshy, this has some weight in the mouth. I like the depth, this has some chew, a soft hint of sweetness plus creamy chalkiness plus a lovely lift on the finish. Cool and crisp but well managed. Really excellent and very accessible, juicy and elegant. Highest ever proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. 6% press wine. Yields around 50hl/ha. 50% grand vin production. Ageing 18 months, 70% new oak. 1/3 aged in one year barrels.
Château Canon-la-Gaffelière
St-Émilion (1er Grand Cru Classé)
2023
94
Rich aromatics on the nose, smells deep and dark with violet tones on the nose. Supple and loads of energy straight away, it’s super bright - lively but also quite lean and mineral - a good burst initially but settles quite quickly with chalky tannins that coat the mouth in a fine powdery layer. A little tight and constricted with the structure taking over the fruity acidity. It’s has some finesse and a really long length filled with mint, bramble herbs, lots of aniseed and liquorice spice. I do like it, doesn't quite have the coherence of some others, a little austere but it’s structured and elegant.
Château Cantenac Brown
Margaux (3ème Cru Classé)
2023
94
Subtle floral aromatics which made me write - on both occasions that I tasted this 'pretty wine'. When you think of Margaux, you wants floral - and you get that in spades here. The attack is all finesse and elegance, with rather racy tannins and subtle depth expressed in ripe dark and red fruit, but understated. This is the first vintage the estate made wine with its new cellar facilities, which have played a role in both selection and tannin extraction: very important in 2023. The finish is marked by a fruit with more floral elements, albeit I note a touch of rawness in the tannins. In a more successful vintage, one would not have that sense, along with superior mid-palate depth and less restraint, but overall, a lovely Margaux and barrel ageing will smoothen all edges. With just over 38hl/ha, a decent yield for the appellation.
Château Corbin
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
94
A top wine among the St-Emilion Cru Classés, given pure cool mint and blueberry fruit aromas. Made from grapes picked between 7 to 26 September, the wine exhibits verve and depth on the juicy palate. Subtle opulence and plenty of length and charm. Densimetric sorting paid dividends to sort out unfit grapes. Soft extraction accentuates a notion of tannin refinement. Barrel ageing will further broaden the palate to make the wine truly special in this vintage.
Château Couhins-Lurton
Pessac-Léognan (Cru Classé de Graves)
2023
94
Although it shows some tannic tightness, the very nice lovely floral aromatics along with graphite - the wine has more Cabernet Sauvignon than usual - make this just lovely. The palate shows off subtle opulence with balancing tension. Ageing in 50% new oak will broaden the palate even more. Long finish.
Château d'Armailhac
Pauillac (5ème Cru Classé)
2023
94
Gorgeous fragrance, so floral and alive on the nose, minty and herbal as well as full of violet and cherry elements. Smells quite intense but fresh too. Bright and in focus, streamlined with a racy core - bright acidity and fine tannins, very harmonious if still strict and focussed. It’s full and balanced in its own way with good structure and persistence from start to finish. Sleek, tangy, taut, I like the soft power, the slightly grippy tannins and the freshness throughout. Leaves a bitter grapefruit orange skin tang on the finish. Highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. 62 IPT. 2% Petit Verdot completes the blend.
Château de Ferrand
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
94
Aromas of ripe blackberry fruit, damson and wet stone precede an almost velvet smooth attack and vinous mid palate, marked by ripe red fruit, as expressed with tannic finesse: 'We extracted less this year when compared to prior vintages, less pumping over,' remarked director Gonzague de Lambert. Long, supple finish marked by limestone freshness. One of the best Ferrands I recall trying from barrel, and it rivaling the excellent 2020. Tasted twice with similar results. Ageing in 36% new oak, with a low pH of 3.51
Château de Pez
St-Estèphe
2023
94
Lovely fragrance of floral and dark bramble fruit on the nose. Smooth and supple, succulent and mouthwatering. Really lovely, juicy and bright, light and lean, but there’s texture too, softly grippy tannins that give the St-Estèphe minerality. Cool, crisp, lifted, lovely freshness with blue fruit and lots of pencil led and mint. Balanced, easy, not too sharp not too edgy or hard. I like this a lot, chewy cherry and lean strawberry and crisp cranberry. Great balance, ends a little lean but it’s the minerality that captures and I love it.
Château de Rouillac
Pessac-Léognan
2023
94
Strongly perfumed nose, with some herbal aromatics, some purple floral scents and dark forest fruits too with savoury notes of dark chocolate, espresso and tobacco. Smooth and succulent, there’s an immediate grip to the tannins - intense but with a juiciness so there’s no austerity or dryness, more fruit fleshiness in terms of texture. Lovely purity and focus, clean and clear plum, blackcurrant and black cherry. Great lift on the finish too, keeps the freshness and length all the way. Clearly structured but lifted and juicy, very classic with salty wet stone and graphite touches. Extremely easy to drink, this has a real drinkability factor. Well made, lovely finesse and elegance to it. Great stuff. 12% press wine. 3.4pH. A yield of 40hl/ha. Ageing 13-15 months, 30% new oak.
Château Fonplégade
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
94
Ageing in 50% new oak barrels, crafted from vines averaging 30 years of age, with certified organic viticulture for the 2023 vintage, this wine shines brightly via 18.5ha of top flight limestone plateau and clay and limestone slope soils: very fresh with wet stone and juicy plum fruit aromas. Excellent mid palate juiciness, with a suave expression of palate depth. As one would expect from the vintage, more red than black fruit, but even more wet stone! I like the overall tannic finesse, if just a touch high-toned. Give it time to soften with the barrel ageing, and this wine may get a higher score once bottled. Harvested from 15 September to 3 October.
Château Gazin
Pomerol
2023
94
Vivid fruit aromas of strawberry jam, blackberry and plum. The palate shows rather smooth tannin, with plenty of wet stone minerality and tonicity, without any notion of hard or drying tannins. Indeed, this is textbook example of mainly Merlots finding their place in deep clay that kept things fresh during the heatwave. Excellent palate depth! Bordering on a 95-point score, which may happen after barrel ageing broadens the palate even more.
Château Grand Village
Bordeaux Supérieur
2023
94
Great aromatics, really ripe and expressive, deep and almost heady on the nose. Dark fruits, floral notes and liquorice spice. Round and supple, a lovely depth and layering of ripe fruit but so juicy and finessed at the same time. Spice and minerality around the edges - lots of bite and mineral grip. I love the character, really bright and tangy, high acidity but with ripe strawberry and red cherry alongside cooling liquorice, wet stone and a blueberry tang that stays and stays. Charming but with character too. Well constructed. Flavours really last - a vibrating wine, energetic but still with grip and tang. 3.45pH.
Château Guillot Clauzel
Pomerol
2023
94
Smells toasty, opulent and rich with dark black fruits on the nose. Juicy and clean, lots of minty freshness and fresh herbal crushed mint aligned to the plum and blackcurrant fruit. Some spiced clove, aniseed and liquorice too. Clean and precise, feels very balanced. A touch lean, and the slightest bit tight, but this will be easy to drink and approach with an excellent long length. Guillaume Thienpont winemaker. Ageing 18 months, 30% new oak.
Château Haut-Bages Monpelou
Pauillac
2023
94
Perfumed and expressive on the nose. Really quite ripe and heady. Filling and concentrated, juicy and clean, but great energy here, this has spark and bite with grip and tang. I love the expression, it’s clean but so lifted and so well rounded. This has power but is suave, a soft hit of sweet red cherry and strawberry fruit allied to graphite-edged tannins that give the salinity. Something extremely good about this with direction, finesse but great brightness. Wonderful appellation signature and likely to be great value.
Château Haut-Brion, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion
Pessac-Léognan
2023
94
Brambly fruit, plummy and lively on the nose. Quite perfumed. Straight and sharp on the palate, this is brilliant in it’s direction and movement, lifted but with a certain weight and density to it, not plush, more grippy and slightly mineral than Chappelle which is more charming right now, but this has great sleek muscles. Stylish and streamlined but it does expand slowly and feels like it has underlying power. Nicely structured, fresh and clean, good level of balancing acidity and a polished finish. Nice stuff. 3.8ph 3.7 total acidity.
Château Hosanna
Pomerol
2023
94
Milk chocolate, vanilla, violets, so much perfume and dark black bramble fruit on the nose. Rich, full, supple and juicy with a nice shot of not-too-high acidity, before the really quite present tannins take over and fill the mouth. Plush and ample, this is broad and fully shouldered, and in that respect maybe not as finessed and direct as some, but I like the structure. This will be delicious. Stylish and confident. I love the menthol, blackcurrant juice and fleshy tannins. Ends long and so cool and fresh. Great stuff.
Château La Clotte
St-Émilion
2023
94
With aromas of wet stone, liquorice, raspberry and damson, the wine exudes freshness but a delectable mid palate creaminess raises the game at this estate, which only focused this year on two top hectares of the four to bring in the very best grapes harvested between mid to late September. Some drying oak-derived notes (the wine is ageing in 100% new oak) are noticeable on the finish, which makes me wonder just a bit, so being conservative.
Château La Fleur de Gay
Pomerol
2023
94
A balanced nose evincing ripe black and red fruit and toasty notes that reflect excellent integration of 50% new oak for ageing. I like the opulent palate, thanks to old-vine Merlots grown from vines on cool clays, revealing both floral freshness and juicy plum. A frank success! Only about 6,000 bottles produced.
Château La Garde
Pessac-Léognan
2023
94
A step change for La Garde this year with a majority of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Floral and fragrant, really alive on the nose, expressive and so energetic. Fruit forward and lively, I love the finesse and the construction, really well made, layered with lots of minerality, crunchy red fruits, great acidity and focus on the crushed stones, graphite and pencil led. It has a smooth body, with a grip to the tannins but lots of focus and definition to the elements. Quite a serious take but all harmonious, nothing sticking out with plenty of underlying power. Polished and accomplished. A top value pick and exciting project to follow. Axel Marchal consultant. No Petit Verdot in the blend this year. 4% press wine - more so than in previous vintages. 35% grand vin production reduced from 50%.
Château La Lagune
Haut-Médoc (3ème Cru Classé)
2023
94
Dark nose, really quite vivid and vibrant, lots of blackberries and some herbal markers. Beautifully fragrant, smells so expressive and really ripe. Smooth and clean, a lovely crisp texture to this with super fine tannins that coat the mouth in a soft chalkiness with really high menthol, herbal Cabernet markers. Although this has a tight core with a focussed line from start to finish it’s not austere or too serious. Finessed and detailed, strawberries, cranberries and blackcurrants, a real mixture of ripe fruit and cool freshness. Very drinkable with delicate fruit and high acidity. This will age extremely well. No Petit Verdot in the blend this year. 18 months ageing, 50% new oak. 3.75pH. 1% press wine. Two thirds grand vin production. A yield of 30-35hl/ha.
Château Lafite Rothschild, Carruades des Lafite
Pauillac
2023
94
Quite a strong and intense nose, dark fruits, bramble, liquorice and dark chocolate. Some hints of perfume at the back. Lovely firmness and sense of youth, bright and buzzy, so much energy and liveliness. High acidity, piercing and direct gives this a sharpness but with bounce too, so it’s not too straight or too hard. The opposite of serious. Almost tart but then expands and with the powdery tannins giving weight towards the finish ending on a slightly herbal, spiced note. Vibrant with punchy red fruits; cranberry and strawberry. Energy but controlled and directed with good persistence, all in balance and harmonious. A great second wine. 12% press. 3.7pH. No Petit Verdot in the blend this year.
Château Lascombes
Margaux (2ème Cru Classé)
2023
94
Now under the guidance of ex-Ornellaia winemaker Axel Heinz and an impressive debut vintage. Dark scents on the nose, blackcurrants and black cherries with some soft perfumed and liquorice accents. Smooth but with flesh, not chewy but this has a nice dollop of density as well as clear focus and drive from start to finish. Precise and juicy, a lovely generous feel about this. Charming but in a dark, ripe way. There’s clearly concentration and power but underpinned by a cool freshness. Very finessed and characterful, I love the elegance but this isn’t lacking in fruit, acidity, tannins or Margaux polish. Ends with graphite and liquorice, a touch of toast and wet stones. Clearly youthful but this has so much potential. 35hl/ha. 3.70pH. 78 IPT. Harvest September 7 - October 9. Ageing 60% new oak. Julien Viaud consultant.
Château Latour à Pomerol
Pomerol
2023
94
Dark chocolate, vanilla, violets and juicy blackcurrants, smells cool and fresh. Ripe fruit gives the almost weighty texture, long and streamlined - clearly persistent but with a lovely mineral core driving the wine and softly expansive tannins that fill the mouth. Opulent but cool, and reined in by the acidity. Not as immediately charming as other vintages, but it’s polished and stylish. Lovely finesse and purity, classy and cool but with lots of Pomerol concentration also alongside crushed stone powdery tannins on the finish. This will benefit from ageing. A little tight and compact right now but excellently controlled with layers and nuance.
Château Le Moulin
Pomerol
2023
94
Great clarity and purity, clean and sharp with strawberry and cherry aromas. Fun and fruit-forward, this has great energy with some bounce and a gorgeous lively yet structured frame. Nicely worked and constructed, feels ripe and fresh, excellent weight and texture to the slightly chalky tannins on the palate. Tangy, a little less fleshy than some, but really accessible and drinkable with dashes of liquorice, blackcurrant, a touch of toast and some minerality on the finish. Delicious. A yield of 35hl/ha. 3.68pH.
Château Léoville-Las Cases, Clos de Marquis
St-Julien
2023
94
Great aromatics, fresh and lively but deep and opulent too - ripe blackcurrant and plum with some cool blueberries. Smooth and sumptuous, classy and finessed. A complete wine - this has structure and a certain level of power but with such fine tannins, almost creamy. Layered and complex but effortless in its construction. Really beautifully delivered. Crunchy, but chalky, some minerality and mouthwatering acidity. Brilliant harmony and balance and sense of weight in terms of texture. 3.69pH.
Château Les Cruzelles
Lalande-de-Pomerol
2023
94
A Lalande-de-Pomerol that offers not only pleasure but sophistication, as this wine delivers not only ripe fresh red and black fruit but also beguiling wet stone minerality - in spades - along with minty lift from the Cabernet Franc in the blend. component. I also admire the juicy mid palate (a fleshy wine) and a long finish marked by damson and seashell freshness. The ageing in 55% new oak will only broaden the palate. I am a buyer - and you should be, too.
Château Lynch-Moussas
Pauillac (5ème Cru Classé)
2023
94
Ripe and stalky fruit on the nose, lots of Cabernet markers. Ripe, fleshy, chewy and filling, this really coats the mouth, it’s ripe but not heavy, with the grippy tannins making way for the acidity and touches of toast towards the finish. I like the more bold style, it has depth and character and certainly isn’t too lean and focussed. Good plumpness and feels like they got the Merlot ripe. Appealing and characterful. Very approachable already, has a digestibility that is appealing. I like the acidity and sense of fresh lift on the finish. Nicely structured. 50% grand vin production. Ageing 55% new oak, the rest in one-year-old barrels.
Château Malescot St Exupéry
Margaux (3ème Cru Classé)
2023
94
Here we have a wine that succeeds with aromatic refinement, including white flower, crushed herbs, blackberry, plum, cassis and raspberry with hints of fine dark chocolate. Quite nice indeed. Now, the palate does have an initially tight and structured feel, highlighted by high-toned, crisp fruit, but then comes the seashell fresh finish, which grew on me, with a veritably appealing drinkability aspect. Potential for a higher score once barrel ageing takes its course.
Château Marquis d'Alesme
Margaux (3ème Cru Classé)
2023
94
Beautiful fragrance, roses, strawberries, milk chocolate, freshly cut mint leaves with blueberries too. Smells cool and full of life. Super tart and high acidity, searing red berries, crunchy and bright, cranberry and strawberry with just ripe red cherries. It’s tangy but well aligned, there’s a sense of balance with the acidity and super integrated tannins and long finish. Taut and streamlined but suits the vintage with lots of cool classicism and freshness. Juicy and lean. Crystalline. Ageing should suit this. 5% Cabernet Franc completes the blend.
Château Meyney
St-Estèphe
2023
94
Minty fresh with ripe fruit aromas, this wine has a robust palate with iodine freshness, juiciness and even a bit of pleasurable creaminess. A bit tight on the finish at this stage, but of good quality, the tannins will soften with barrel ageing. An excellent St-Estèphe!
Château Mouton Rothschild, Petit Mouton
Pauillac
2023
94
Quite medicinal on the nose with a vibrant purple colour to the rim. Smells rich and ripe but cool and fresh too. Juicy and fun, this makes the mouth water and you want to smile straight away with hints of steely minerality, cool blueberries, crisp cranberries and sweet strawberries. Feels very calm, very accessible, stylish and confident. Harmonious and balanced and easy to enjoy with tannins that coat the mouth with silkiness yet still has amplitude on the palate. Great stuff, very delicious. 39% production. 2% Petit Verdot completes the blend.
Château Nénin
Pomerol
2023
94
Perfumed purple berries - plum and damson on the palate. Lots of florality, really scented and expressive. Juicy and supple, nicely agile and energetic - great weight, no heaviness, really complete and covers the mouth in a powdery soft fleshiness, not heavy but not light. A balanced wine with plenty of underlying power and fruit forwardness. I really like this, gently layered - great acidity, juiciness and sense of ease to this. Gentle, smooth, charming, round, fresh and cool. Great stuff.
Château Pédesclaux
Pauillac (5ème Cru Classé)
2023
94
Mint and dark chocolate on the nose with bramble fruit. Structured and almost chewy, this has texture and body, more of a serious step up, certainly less lively and fruit forward than second wine Fleur, this is more serious with well-defined tannins, gorgeous minty, blackcurrant Cabernet markers and in-balance acidity. Cool definitely but no hint of greenness - full of ripe fruit. Lots of Pauillac signature but without any harshness or too much tension. There’s a gentle softness that the Merlot gives which calms the expression. Lovely tannins give a powdery, chalky fleshiness around the cheeks and long lifted, minty finish. Feels elegant, precise and focussed. Still tense and a little strict but this is complete and has charm. Longest harvest ever, 17 days instead of 11. 14.5% press. 3.76pH. Ageing 65% new oak.
Château Petit-Village
Pomerol
2023
94
Perfumed on the nose, heavily scented and lively with violets, roses, blackcurrants, slate, crayon and liquorice. Supple and agile on the palate, a great movement from start to finish with crushed velvet textured tannins as well as plushness and some sweetness from the ripe berry fruit. Powerful but also friendly and charming with lots of graphite and minerality on the finish. Still compact, but stylish and well made. 3.8pH. Ageing 16 months in French oak barrels, 45% new, 25% in 500l barrels. 50% grand vin production.
Château Prieuré-Lichine
Margaux (4ème Cru Classé)
2023
94
Round and juicy, clean and clear, nice sense of bounce and persistence to this. Sleek and straight, a mineral firm core. Great length, really excellent with so much menthol minerality and freshness. Appealing, all in balance and harmony with great tannins expression. Delicious, moreish, generous and so charming. Pretty and well built, still with structure and chalky tannins but great persistence and sense of restraint. Cool and classy.
Château Rouget
Pomerol
2023
94
Pure and intense on the nose. Smooth and supple, great energy and focus to this, movement with ripe fruit but tight tannins. Feels a touch coiled and taut right now, but this will expand and soften in time. Lovely acidity and feeling of finesse all the way through. 3.6pH. Ageing 30% new oak. Organic certified as of 2023.
Château Sociando-Mallet
Haut-Médoc
2023
94
Dark fruit, violet notes, black cherries and touches of liquorice. Supple and lively, really tangy and zesty, bright but not over the top with such a creamy, chalky texture giving a soft grip. Generous but controlled, I like the style, there’s concentration but keeps such a cool blue fruit edge which gives freshness and the minerality doesn't stick out at all. Expressive and elegant, but with body and something to get your teeth stuck into. Lovely suppleness but finally ends grippy and stony with the salinity lingering on the very long finish with mint, liquorice and clove. Characterful. I like this a lot. A stand out wine and top buy! 60% grand vin production. 8% press wine. 3.55pH. Ageing 12-14 months, 80% new oak.
Château Soutard
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
94
One of the oldest properties in St-Emilion, this 35ha vineyard is one of the most representative wines on the limestone plateau, and it does not disappoint in 2023, with pleasing plum and blackberry fruit and floral notes. Very expressive with spice on the palate, it displays depth and both red and dark fruit (reflecting a long harvest from 5 September to 6 October) with a balanced sense of concentration, salinity and tannic finesse, the low 3.48pH balancing the 14% alcohol. Ageing in 50% new oak will increase a sense of palate breadth.
Château Tour St Christophe
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
94
Named Grand Cru Classé in the most recent ranking of the classification, this estate under the Vignobles K stable rivals the more established Château Bellefont-Belcier in 2023, with vivid floral notes and bright cherry, plum and wet stone. The tannins fine and sap driven, leave the impression of a wine fresh and concentrated: 'We had to be extra soft in extractions because the substance was already there,' remarked estate director Jean-Christophe Meyrou. The harvest took place from 18 September to 7 October. The wine is ageing in 25% new oak with an ultra low pH of 3.35.
Château Valandraud
St-Émilion (1er Grand Cru Classé)
2023
94
The best barrel sample that I have tasted from this estate in a long time, as it reflects not only the dark ripe fruit one expects, but also an extra dimension of freshness, with blood red orange lift on the finish. Let's not get ahead of ourselves: the attack (with similar aromas) reflects beguiling blackberry liqueur and cassis creaminess, along with red liquorice and iodine freshness. I still get oak stave aspects from the 100% new oak (which begs some caution, given the 15% alcohol), but superb mid-palate depth combined with that fine finish augurs well for the future. Strong potential for a higher score after bottling.
Clos de la Vieille Eglise
Pomerol
2023
94
Chewy and plush, but streamlined at the same time, the ripe fruit softening and smoothing out to reveal a fine layer of chalkiness with a lovely, almost firm mineral grip that lingers on the tongue. Clean and pure, really very precise and focussed. A great wine, balanced and harmonious. Juicy and succulent still on the finish too. Lovely. Power is there no doubt, comes in waves with liquorice, black pepper, graphite and clove. Will be very enjoyable in time.
L'If
St-Émilion
2023
94
Crafted from grapes picked between 18 September and 2 October (the date of Cabernet Franc pickings), this wine, currently ageing in 50% new oak, exhibits balance between acidity - a low pH of 3.37 - and alcohol. Winemaker Cyrille Thienpont walked me through the recently renovated cement vat cellar used for the first time this vintage, and the wine is precise, with bright red and dark fruits and fine tannin. I appreciate the juiciness that beckons drinking in a medium-bodied palate. The long finish echoes wet stone minerality with a touch of savoury dark chocolate.
Le Dome
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
94
Fresh and fragranced nose, bright crunchy cranberry and raspberry notes with an air of both ripeness and coolness. Juicy and lively, a nice kick of acidity in the middle with strawberry and cherry notes. Chewy texture gives the structure, it’s quite charming, on the bigger plusher style but ends clean and pristine with liquorice, graphite and wet stones. Still a touch of opulence but nicely refined. A more bold take but still with lots of juiciness. Will be nice to see after ageing when it softens and melds a little.
Château Alcée
Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
2023
93
Milk chocolate, roses, violets and blackcurrants - something very alluring about the nose. Richly scented. Ripe and full in the mouth, this focuses on the density and weight of the tannins and ripe fruit giving it a weighty texture in the mouth although a shot of bright strawberry, almost sweet, acidity lifts the expression while a chalkiness expands round the mouth. A richer style, but equally as vibrant as La Prade which is more straight. Really very delicious, generous and appealing. This is a wine that makes you smile, more reminiscent of something from a hot vintage but with a low pH that just makes this sing. Great stuff and all while being so defined and finessed. Careful winemaking by Nicolas and Cyrille Thienpont. Lovely. 3.4pH. 18.5hl/ha yield.
Château Angélus, Carillon d'Angélus
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
93
Gorgeous purple colour in the glass. Just-ripe cherries, cranberries and plums. Smells fresh and lively with some liquorice hints. Smooth and so lively, really lifted and pure with both sweet and crisp cranberries giving a mixture of tension but also great movement. Bitter orange touches add a spiced angle but also more character. Lovely tannin integration, this is fun, but stylish, very clean and precise. Great drinkability on offer. 3.6pH. Ageing 16 months, 60% new oak.
Château Ausone, La Chapelle d'Ausone
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
93
Green and red berry fruit on the nose, some ripe and unripe notes with clear cedar, liquorice and cinnamon tones. Juicy and so lively on the palate, fun and lifted, clear and crunchy cranberry - a touch of bitter, tannins are present but really soft - a tiny chewiness with real freshness and menthol lift at the end. Round and complete, maybe still little shy and oak impacted but this has a good style. Juicy and clean, light in a way, this isn't rich but it has nice depth all the same. 3.62pH.
Château Batailley, Lions de Batailley
Pauillac
2023
93
Supple and agile in the mouth but intensely tannic and grippy too - they coat the entire mouth but with a soft, charming fleshiness that is so appealing. Round, full, but calm and generous. I love the velvety texture, almost sweet red and black cherry fruit with a wonderfully saline finish. There's nothing too over the top here - a superb second wine. I feel a mix between the Margaux plushness and Pauillac power. Fresh, clean and clear. Nothing not to like here!
Château Beauregard
Pomerol
2023
93
Great aromatics, perfumed and fragrant bramble fruit - cherry and plum. Supple with nice energy though quite lean with some powdery tannins. Clean and clear, juicy and lively with intensity from start to finish. First vintage certified organic and with Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. A yield of 43hl/ha. Harvest September 6-267. Ageing 18 months in 40% new oak, 20% in 500l barrels.
Château Bélair-Monange, Annonce de Bélair-Monange
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
93
Juicy and succulent, nice and lively, clean and focussed, a good blend of crisp and crunchy cranberry and raspberry fruit with ripe blackcurrant too. Clean, straight and sleek, the minerality and the acidity give the backbone. Nothing harsh here, just a little tense still. However, this will offer great drinkability with lot of style on show.
Château Belgrave
Haut-Médoc (5ème Cru Classé)
2023
93
Lovely floral and blackcurrant aromatics on the nose, smells open and expressive with some clear, herbal and bramble notes. Clean and direct, the mouthwatering cherry and strawberry juiciness is lovely though with a chalky base. Crystalline and pure, straight and linear, not as fleshy as some, but really well balanced. Smooth and really approachable with a lift on the finish. Missing some more flesh and weight, but there’s great coolness and lots of finesse. Tannins are fine and integrated and this carries to a long finish. Feels very cool and very classic minty Cabernet. Effortless and gently wide. A yield of 47hl/ha. 3.69pH. Ageing 30% new oak.
Château Bonalgue
Pomerol
2023
93
Perfumed and so floral on the nose, violets, roses, dark chocolate and blackcurrant, really alive and open aromatically. Juicy and lively, nice focus and purity. A soft chew makes this friendly and approachable. Lots of push and direction from start to finish with fresh red berry fruit and some menthol and toasted spice on the finish. Smooth and so clean, a really finessed expression which is easy to like. Nice energy although it still has some of the flesh and weight you expect from a Pomerol while being refreshing and lifted on the finish. 3.55pH. A yield of 39hl/ha. Harvest September 4 - October 2. Ageing 40% new oak.
Château Boutisse
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
93
Could it be the additional 2% Carménère that accentuates almost green peppercorn freshness to the nose? In any case, the aromas are fresh, with some floral elements and After Eight mint, with the palate thoroughly reflecting the majority of Merlot in the blend, expressed as ripe plum and blackberry fruit. While smooth, the tannins show some austerity, but the ageing in 30% new oak should smoothen the palate by the time the wine hits shelves. A promising St-Emilion from a cool St-Christophe de Bardes terroir, and a potential for a higher score.
Château Brown
Pessac-Léognan
2023
93
Wonderful deep rich colour, vibrant, and lots of expression on the nose, purple flowers, black fruits, vanilla, milk chocolate, some dried herbs and some oak influence too. A wall of tannins, but chalky and then immediately subsides and melts into the mouth with bright red fruits, chalky and creamy and with bite. A lovely finesse to this with a quiet power and calm elegance. Still young but well proportioned with lots of push. This has great body, a really lovely weight and layers of ripe fruit, minerality, freshness and menthol herbality. There’s something just very charming about this while still having plenty to get your teeth stuck into. A yield of 40hlha. 100% oak ageing, 30% new, 70% one year. 3.68pH.
Château Cadet-Bon
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
93
Crafted from grapes picked between 18 September and 2 October, on vines grown in excellent soils that include the southern slope of the hill and the limestone plateau of the medieval town, this deep violet coloured wine is smooth, with expressions of juicy, ripe plum, crisp red berry fruit and pleasing, orange-like freshness. The wine compares favourably to the 2022 vintage, even more 'mineral' and fresher in expression. While the tannins show firmness, they are fine in a medium-bodied palate leading to a long, rather spicy finish. Tasted twice with similar results. Ageing in 35% new oak with a pH of 3.5 that balances the rather high alcohol.
Château Canon, Croix-Canon
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
93
Beautiful fragrance on the nose, deep and heady, a bright, full expression but smells like cool blueberries, some crayon, pencil lead and violets. Lifted and high toned, tangy but with a depth and fleshiness of tannins that gives the fruit some density, substance and structure. Bold and characterful. Slightly more thick and round than some, this has real personality and a sense of energy. Mouthwatering, alive with such purity and a minerality that lingers on the back of the palate. Salty, wet stones, menthol and liquorice. A great introduction to the first wine. Serious. 3.42pH. Ageing 16-18 months, 27% new oak and four foudres.
Château Canon Pécresse
Canon-Fronsac
2023
93
Nicely scented nose, full of black fruits, floral notes and soft herbal touches with some dried flowers, dark chocolate and graphite. Clean and crunchy, really crisp and delicate. Light, not heavy at all, but really finely layered. Seamless and so bright and fresh. Juicy and supple with a mineral, wet stone grip to the tannins the lingers on the finish. Clean, forward and focussed with a confident intensity. Really very good, so fine, and you really want another sip.
Château Certan de May
Pomerol
2023
93
Fragrant and expressive, lots of perfumed elements. Smooth and agile, there’s a nice energy and focus to this with pure blackcurrant and cherry fruit, high acidity, and a real sense of life. Lots of upfront, buzzy fruit but it's also a touch lean and straight offering some austerity right now. Nicely focussed though with a cool lift on the finish.
Château Cheval Blanc, Petit Cheval
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
93
Very floral and highly perfumed on the nose. Supple and agile, this has weight and a super smooth texture - quite tart and high in acidity though with liquorice, aniseed, clove and some wet stone minerality that gives the fine tannins a real chalky grip around the mouth. It’s a little austere and youthful but it has structure and muscle and lots of ripe fruit as well as freshness. Not charming and welcoming but sleek, straight and focussed. Ageing 14-16 months in one year barrels. 3.8pH.
Château Clarke
Listrac-Médoc
2023
93
The best of the Listracs I encountered with ripe and juicy plum, cassis and orange blossom aromatics reflecting ripe Merlots and cool Cabernets that make up the blend. The estate must have been very selective after a long harvest between 11 September to 6 October, given such clean and pure aromas, delivered in a juicy, medium-bodied palate with impressive structure and brightness, too. In a word: delicious. Ageing in two-thirds new oak. Potential for a higher score once bottled.
Château Clinet
Pomerol
2023
93
With ripe red fruit and spicy aromatics, this wine gets off to a fine start, with a brisk attack packed with ripe red berry and plum fruit. I also like the freshness, tension and a long finish. But it shows rather firm tannins with some drying extraction. Conservative score, as we await the final result after the barrel ageing.
Château Croix de Labrie
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
93
There is freshness, refinement and tonicity to this wine, imbued with cool blue and ripe red berry fruit, coming from a five-hectare estate, that was recently promoted to Grand Cru Classé. With an excellent variety of soils - from limestone sand and clay to gravels with clay - the wine was crafted from grapes harvested from 20 September to 6 October. The tannins are smooth enough, but barrel ageing (70% new oak) will improve both their finesse and palate breadth, but I like the tonic, tangy and tasty aspect to the palate, with ripe fruit. The low pH of 3.41 is balanced by 14.2 alcohol. Potential for a higher score once bottled.
Château de Candale
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
93
Sweet nose, ripe concentrated fruit and dark berries. Focussed with density and juiciness. A dollop of bright but sweet strawberry and black cherry on the palate with a clean grip to the tannins on the tongue. Definitely more ripe than some, good density and push, tasty and filling, although this is also juicy, succulent and mouthwatering with bite. Liquorice, toast and graphite on the finish. A bold, characterful style with lingering tension on the tongue that gives the grip while the sweet fruit gives life and energy. Ageing 25% new oak, 52% one wine, 8% 7.5hl amphora and 15% foudre.
Château de Chambrun
Lalande-de-Pomerol
2023
93
Ageing for 16 months in 35% new oak, this Merlot-dominated wine exudes a bright nose with freshness and red and blackberry fruit, both brambly and rich on the palate. Crafted from grapes harvested between 14 September and 10 October – a long harvest – and cropped at 49hl/ha, the wine successfully balances the rather high alcohol of nearly 15% with a low pH of 3.54. Tasted twice with similar results.
Château de Fieuzal
Pessac-Léognan
2023
93
Opening with a mix of floral bouquet, raspberry and plum, the wine is more ethereal than usual from this estate: delicate, smooth tannins lead to a creamy mid palate, not without structure, rather subtle including ripe fruit sweetness, liquorice and crushed tobacco freshness on the medium finish.
Château de La Dauphine
Fronsac
2023
93
I like the elegant freshness of the floral aromatics from this wine, made from grapes harvested between 13 September and 5 October and now ageing 12 months in 30% new oak. The estate has been improving in recent years, and the vines averaging about 30 years help to add increasing complexity. The palate has lovely balance between high-toned aspects typical to the vintage and ripe red and dark fruit, at 13.5% alcohol with a pH of 3.50, displaying agreeable warmth and tannic poise. Although a shorter finish and less follow through than one would expect from the attack and the fine mid palate, barrel ageing should improve matters: my score reflects the maximum end of my range.
Château de Pressac
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
93
Aging 18 months in 50% new oak, this wine has a darker tone than average with a 'modern sheen' reflected in more evident oak-derived tannin and ultra-ripe fruit, both dark and red, which is a good thing! I do sense some tannin extraction more than I would like but admire impressive mid palate concentration and depth. Barrel ageing will arrange things nicely.
Château des Sabines
Lalande-de-Pomerol
2023
93
With its aromas of forest strawberry and spice, this wine, crafted by Jean-Luc Thunevin from grapes picked between 12-29 September, is a joy to drink, with a sumptuous palate, as if having a dollop of strawberry and damson liqueur. The yummy factor (akin to strawberry shortcake) is high. The ageing in 50% new oak will broaden the palate nicely. Until this year was called Domaine des Sabines, with 30-year-old vines grown on clay and gravel soils located just opposite the road between Pomerol and Libourne.
Château du Retout
Haut-Médoc (Cru Bourgeois Supérieur)
2023
93
An excellent nose exhibits the refinement of the Cabernets with ripe cassis and floral bouquet. The palate reveals plum juiciness as the best Merlots were used (a long harvest, from 18 September to 4 October) and, by golly, one of the top showings among Cru Bourgeois tasted. An exciting wine, earning plaudits for a smooth palate with vivacity. In a row among wines tasted again after lunch - after which I needed some water - this wine cleary surpassed many others that displayed comparatively hard and/or raw tannins one can encounter in the vintage. Bravo! Ageing in about 20% new oak.
Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, Le Croix Ducru
St-Julien
2023
93
Herbal, savoury aromatics, the Cabernet really speaking on the nose. Soft sage, mint, liquorice, blackcurrant, violet and some red fruits too. Lovely profile. Streamlined and straight - focussed but with supple, soft tannins that fill the mouth. Lovely salinity that extends the expression. Tannins are definitely more integrated with some of the subtle power coming at the end. I like this wine this year, soft, not trying so hard, juicy, chalky and plush, still with that minty, clove Cabernet spice and blackcurrant fruit. It’s dark and serious but this will be a lovely wine in time. 3.71pH, 91 IPT. Ageing 12 months, 60% new oak.
Château Fayat
Pomerol
2023
93
Deep dark purple floral aromatics, ripe black fruit touches and some dark chocolate liquorice spice with cool blueberries and some crayon notes. Smooth and supple, juicy and high toned, great acidity and freshness with a chalkiness to the tannins that coats the mouth. I love the minerality aspect, just on the right side of steely and straight with a nice soft expansion that then turns into a little bit of chew by the second taste. Still a little compact but there’s depth and no mid palate hollowness. Refined and nicely controlled with fresh mint and subtle spice on the finish. A really excellent, easy expression, with lots of energy, structure and freshness. Maybe doesn't have the Pomerol plushness you can find in other years but it’s extremely welcoming and will be great to drink. 3.58pH. 70% grand vin production.
Château Feytit-Clinet
Pomerol
2023
93
Making the most of the cooler clay soils of this vineyard for the majority Merlots (albeit also with warmer sand and gravel) this wine is excitingly savoury with plenty of juicy damson on the mid palate, albeit with some hard, unresolved tannins on the medium finish. There is some oak derived toast but complementing the fruit. And barrel ageing should soften the wine, to revisit once bottled.
Château Fleur Cardinale
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
93
Crafted from grapes picked between this lovely Grand Cru Classé, ageing 13 months in 45% new oak (what a nice change from the not so distant past, when it was dominated by too much oak tannin) exudes ripe plum and red berry fruit aromas and flavours, with darker fruit and liquorice on the juicy palate, marked by smooth tannins furthermore reflecting the potential positive energy of the vintage, as the wine has vivaciousness, leading to a medium finish with lift.
Château Fombrauge
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
93
Aging for 16 months in 35% new oak, this Merlot-dominated wine exudes a bright nose with freshness and red and blackberry fruit, both brambly and rich on the palate. Crafted from grapes harvested between 14 September and 10 October – a long harvest – and cropped at 49 hectolitres per hectare, the wine successfully balances the rather high alcohol of nearly 15% with a low pH of 3.54. Tasted twice with similar results.
Château Fonroque
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
93
Raspberry and strawberry aromas, the palate has high toned fruit, lots of energy and certainly tangy bordering on tart. This biodynamic wine, crafted from grapes grown on the famous limestone plateau and limestone-clay hillside and picked between 5-29 September, represents a style that can be said to be 'acquired' and I have done so. Give it time in barrel - 18 months in 31% new oak - to broaden the palate, and then you can crack open a bottle for an upscale summer barbecue.
Château Giscours, Sirène de Giscours
Margaux
2023
93
Lovely floral elements on the nose. Raspberries, red cherries and some plum notes with touches of rose. Smooth and supple, a good energy and movement. Nice brightness with stoniness, graphite and liquorice. Juicy, high acidity with crunchy and crisp fruit. I love the balance of acidity and tannins, really smooth with a hint of grip. Well worked, not massively complex but really well made with such charm and easy-drinking appeal. Great precision too. Clearly finessed. 3.76ph. No Cabernet Franc in the blend this year. 26% second wine.
Château Grand Corbin Despagne
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
93
Brilliant violet colour, the wine comes from an excellent terroir of siliceous-clay over iron deposits and ancient sands over blue clay. Ageing in 40% new oak, with a pH of 3.68, a balanced wine whose brisk nature is reflected in somewhat high-toned tannins common to the 2023 vintage. I like the palate depth and juiciness. Ends with a medium finish marked by cool blue and blackberry fruit with lift. Cropped at 45hl/ha.
Château Grand Mayne
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
93
With aromas of red fruit, quite chipper and friendly, the palate reflects more (pleasing) limestone aspects, even if a tad timid in expressing the red fruit ripeness, along with crushed mint and allspice. I like the juicy mid-palate. The structured tannin leads to a medium finish but just slightly standoffish. The 18 months ageing in 50% new oak should soften the finish.
Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste
Pauillac (5ème Cru Classé)
2023
93
Cassis notes are accentuated by almost cranberry freshness along with red apple and black pepper aromas presage a palate rather crunchy and brambly in its fruit expression - with the lovely nuance of seashell freshness plus pleasing mid palate juiciness. No less than 12 percent press wine was used to accentuate a sense of structure from the 77% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, but there is a sense of reticence to the wine for which barrel ageing in 75% new oak should lend needed breadth, and a higher likely score. But it remains more a solid and more high-toned expression of this great terroir instead of a great vintage such as 2016, 2019, 2020 or 2022, where I was more enthusiastic. Nevertheless, a wine that you can enjoy sooner than those vintages, but also capable of cellaring.
Château Haut-Bages Libéral
Pauillac (5ème Cru Classé)
2023
93
Great aromatics, really quite scented on the nose. Highly fragrant with purple flowers, damsons and rich black and red fruit. Great acidity, more juicy and fun than some Pauillacs with lots of energy and brightness. Really feel the vivacity to this wine, straight and clean, precise, not so much weight, the straight Cabernets are doing all the talking with some wet stone minerality on the back. Friendly, lovely and precise. Approachable, this doesn’t have the seriousness of some but this is well made with lots of freshness, mint, cedar and tobacco and liquorice on the long finish. 3.45pH.
Château Haut-Bailly, Haut-Bailly II
Pessac-Léognan
2023
93
Fragrant nose, really quite floral - rose, violets and peonies on the nose with raspberry and red cherry. Soft and suave, this has a silky elegance to it. Tannins are a little powdery, giving some structure, and just take over the fruit, bit this has ripe fruit and a minty, fresh undercurrent which keeps the lift all the way through. Plus this feels like it has depth. A great second wine, more body than some, a chew and soft sweetness that is nice. It’s a little light overall, but very Haut-Bailly esque, elegant with some wood spice, cedar and bitter liquorice on the finish. 3.75pH. Ageing 12 months, 30% new oak.
Château Haut-Marbuzet
St-Estèphe
2023
93
With thoroughly pleasing black cherry and blackberry aromas accentuated by floral notes and wet stone, this wine is a winner in 2023: While lacking the depth (and grip) of the 2020 or the 2019, this vintage succeeds with tannic finesse and very good length. The barrel ageing will ensure success!
Château La Fleur de Boüard
Lalande-de-Pomerol
2023
93
For the first vintage ever, the new oak is reduced to 50% and the wine is all the better for that, showing off distinct black cherry and plum with a hint of toast, leading to rather smooth tannin and saline freshness. Healthy yield at over 50hl/ha, with the harvest bringing in ripe grapes from 11 to 28 September. A star from Lalande de Pomerol!
Château La Louvière
Pessac-Léognan
2023
93
Cool blueberry fruit with hints of crushed tobacco introduce a mouthful of wine, flattering and rich, but not without austerity on the finish as the tannins come off a bit tight. Overall, pretty good, with pleasing fruit ripeness and plum like richness marked by the majority of Merlot in the blend. I also like the overall tension on the palate, leading to a long finish, so it could get a higher score after it ages in 40% new oak.
Château La Mission Haut-Brion, La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion
Pessac-Léognan
2023
93
Milk chocolate, blackcurrant and bramble fruit on the nose, gorgeous scents. Ripe and plummy, juicy and so bright, lovely clarity but such precision, really well defined, tension is there and there are edges to the tannins but there is also such good movement. Not plump at all, great clarity with freshness and lift. Lovely sculpting, not muscular but there’s weight and depth here. And I love the fleshy tannins just giving a bit of crushed velvet texture to the palate. Bright, balanced, vibrant, and long too. Soft and lush. 3.8pH.
Château La Patache
Pomerol
2023
93
Crafted from grapes picked between 15-21 September, this wine exudes ripe blue and red berry fruit and is juicy on the mid palate with reassuring structure enabling ageability. Healthy yields of 39hl/ha. A bit of tannic austerity on the finish, but of the kind that barrel ageing - 30% new oak - should resolve.
Château La Pointe
Pomerol
2023
93
With a bright attack and ripe dark cherry and plum aromas, this may not be the most charming among the Pomerol wines in 2023, but it offers fine mid-palate grip. Barrel ageing - and some cellaring - should soften somewhat raw tannins. The wine packs a punch, accentuated by high-toned acidity, the low 3.58 pH in evidence. Harvest dates between 4-25 September. Ageing 50% new oak.
Château La Prade
Francs Côtes de Bordeaux
2023
93
Cool and fresh blackcurrant tones on the nose, smells vibrant and alive. Juicy and racy, this sings out the glass, great energy of strawberry and raspberry fruit with touches of herbal mint and sage, with some dark chocolate and tobacco. Nice construction and good length with a real vivacity to it. Great purity as well as concentration but keeping a lean focus. Very balanced, harmonious, all in its place, but carefully controlled. Strict finish but I love it. Less Merlot and more Cabernet Franc in the blend than usual. Ageing in 500l barrels. 32hl/ha yield.
Château La Tour Figeac
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
93
I really enjoyed the open-knit, fruit-forward nature to this wine, with orange rind like freshness along with vivid ripe plum and cherry. While not among the longest finishes, when compared to some other Grands Cru Classés, it is a well-balanced wine with éclat, brightness. Bravo!
Château La Vieille Cure
Fronsac
2023
93
A Fronsac that has been on a roll, this year exhibiting ripe plum, savoury black olive and a touch of vanilla, reflecting new oak, but also with palate tension and mid-palate sap. Slightly hard tannin on the finish does not dry out, and the ageing will soften matters for this wine made from grapes that had been harvested between 14-29 September. 14.5% alcohol and ageing between 12-15 months in 40% new oak. 3.45pH.
Château Labégorce
Margaux
2023
93
Great aromatics, herbal raspberry leaf, plums and red cherries. Smooth and supple, nice tension and vibrancy to this, lovely juiciness but not too overt acidity with a slightly chalky creaminess. I like the mixture of all the elements, clean and clear on the finish like licking stones. Nice balance, feels like they've done a good job of getting ripeness, keeping acidity and getting fine tannins to give a sleek structure. Slightly crushed velvet in texture. I like this a lot and I love the cool mint freshness on the finish. Very charming and approachable. 3% Cabernet Franc completes the blend.
Château Lafleur, Les Pensées de Lafleur
Pomerol
2023
93
So floral - strawberry leaf, raspberry, softly herbal, a little creamy with violets and black cherries. Pure and velvety, this has a subtle energy as well as ripe fruit with lots of definition. Nothing shouting about this wine, it’s almost discreet but not lacking in gentle power. Not so concentrated but it’s extremely finessed and very welcoming. Juicy, like strawberry juice with a graphite minerality and a succulence all the way through that is appealing. Ageing 25% new oak, 75% is one use wine. 3.75pH.
Château Lafleur-Gazin
Pomerol
2023
93
Expressive and aromatic on the nose, perfumed and floral. Nicely scented and full aromatically. Juicy, sappy, agile, nice energy and focus with bright fruits, lovely ripe tannins and overall lots of persistence. Feels finessed and polished, structured and suave. Good liveliness, great blackcurrant and cherry fruit, lots of blueberries too, wet stones and graphite. A nice, cool, polished wine. Stylish. Great for drinking soon. A top buy.
Château Lafon-Rochet
St-Estèphe (4ème Cru Classé)
2023
93
Cool blue fruits and dark chocolate on the nose with blackcurrant and bramble fruit. Lovely fresh fragrance. Round and textured, a nice filling weight and body to this, almost chewy, juicy and lively, really in balance - very welcoming and generous and verging on charming. I like the pep to this, upbeat and fun, on the high acid side but there’s something very welcoming about it. Chalky and mineral on the finish, a powdery sensation lingers on the tongue. This will need some time to age in oak to soften it a touch and allow it to expand but this is a stylish 2023. 55% grand vin production. The estate will be certified organic as of the 2024 vintage. 3.75pH.
Château Langoa Barton
St-Julien (3ème Cru Classé)
2023
93
While the nose lacks the éclat of a recent run of excellent vintages here, with a more downbeat expression, there is no denying the classy expression of the Cabernet Sauvignon, which makes up 60% of the blend. There is poise in an expression not only of cassis but floral rose. Furthermore, the wine has a solid tannic edge, which will be tamed during the barrel ageing at 60% new oak, which also should broaden the palate. All this augurs well for cellaring. I also like the alcohol and acidity balance, and while the barrel sample lacks the depth of a superior vintage like 2020 - tasted on two occasions - it shows refinement reflecting St-Julien. Potential for a higher score in bottle.
Château Larrivet Haut-Brion
Pessac-Léognan
2023
93
Fully aromatic, dark purple flowers and sweetly-scented blue and black berry notes. Sweet and supple, nice chalky powdery tannins give weight to the bright red berries. Lovely tannin integration and persistence of flavour. Straight and focussed, not plush, but this has a nice structure and good length. Some mineral, graphite notes on the finish.
Château Latour, Les Forts de Latour
Pauillac
2023
93
Delicate fragrance of violet, rose and strawberry, something quite floral about the nose with some soft Cabernet herbalness. Round and weighty, a lovely velvety texture to the tannins but with quite crisp acidity that gives some tension. A nice balance of flesh and mouth-watering acidity giving a push/pull. Layered and bright, still streamlined no doubt, there’s not so much flesh or bounce but a certain depth and weight on the palate. Clear and well defined. Wood is still present causing some restriction on the finish but there’s nice potential here. 3.65pH. Ageing 17 months, 65% new oak.
Château Le Bon Pasteur
Pomerol
2023
93
Super fragrant and alive on the nose, floral, ripe black fruits. Juicy and so clean, clearly ripe but lovely texture to the tannins, grippy, almost chewy but this also has licks of slate, minerality, graphite and dark chocolate. I love the interplay between menthol, bitter dark chocolate and ripe blackcurrants. Still a touch coiled on the finish, but this has good potential. Great mouthfeel, very Pomerol, with a strong, liquorice and herbal finish. Will be interesting to see after ageing. Ageing 50% new oak. 50% grand vin production.
Château Le Boscq
St-Estèphe
2023
93
Floral notes on the nose. Rich and fleshy, a real chew to the crunchy and high toned strawberry and raspberry fruit here - lots of red cherry. Tannins are imposing though, really covering the mouth with lots of chalky minerality and soft salty powderiness. I like it, a little constricted on the finish, this will need lots of time, but I love the cooling blue fruit touch and the salinity all the way through. Fresh and lifted with lots of body and liveliness. 3.61pH. A yield of 49hl/ha. 1% Cabernet Franc completes the blend.
Château Léoville-Las Cases, Le Petit Lion du Marquis de Las Cases
St-Julien
2023
93
So fragrant with lovey hints of sweet red fruit on the nose. Gorgeous florally and sense of expressiveness. Smooth and supple, a little tight and compact but there is flesh here and a sense of density to the ripe blackcurrant and black cherry fruit. But it’s also so clean and pure, lovely finesse, power surges underneath the fruit and the acidity. Chiselled and well made, a little lean still, a bit straight towards the finish, but there’s a lot to like here and this feels really serious in its own right. I actually love the strawberry and cherry juiciness, that sweetness from the nose coming back and mingling with the acidity. 43hl/ha yield. Ageing 14 months, 30% new oak.
Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion, C des Carmes
Pessac-Léognan
2023
93
Crunchy and bright on the nose, some herbal and crisp fresh fruits, cranberry, red cherry and strawberry. Herbal Cabernet elements too. Super bright and fresh, clean, so crystalline and pure. Nice drinkability on offer, really lovely styling, has salinity and lots of minerality with a direct frame. Not as plush or weighty as some, but there are gorgeous aromatics, juiciness and a clean definition to the tannins. Very finessed and balanced. A stunning second wine. 3.60pH. 25% whole bunch fermentation. Harvest September 20 to October 5. Ageing 20% new oak, 70% vats of 30hl and 10% amphoras.
Château Les Trois Croix
Fronsac
2023
93
Pretty floral aspects reveal a fresh and flavourful palate with plum and brambly red berry fruit. While it lacks the depth and power of a 'super vintage', it makes up for that with much charm and smooth tannins that have nuance, ending with a subtle medium finish. Barrel ageing will broaden the palate any my score reflects the upper end of a range.
Château Lilian Ladouys
St-Estèphe (Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel)
2023
93
Fragrant and scented on the nose, bright red fruits and some red floral notes with cool herbal markers too. Fresh and forward with crunchy and bright cranberries and creamy raspberries. A little lean and straight at this point but lots of mineral markers on the palate - wet stone, graphite, liquorice. Very saline, this ends clean and precise, balanced and all in one line. I like the easy approachability with some classicism and terroir touches. 1% Cabernet Franc completes the blend. 55hl/ha yield. Ageing 33% new oak. 3.81pH.
Château Margaux, Pavillon Rouge
Margaux
2023
93
Subtle aromatics, dried flowers, pot pourri, rose, blackcurrant and raspberry. Deep purple colour to the rim, vibrant but intense, some graphite and herbal Cabernet notes on the nose too. Bright and sharp, quite linear and a touch austere at this point, lean and straight - well defined and focussed with lovely fruit intensity and purity. Not fleshy, but there's lots of energy and precision to this. Very classic and will round out nicely. 14% press wine. 60% new oak. 2% Cabernet Franc completes the blend. 68 IPT, 3.6pH, 30% second wine production.
Château Marquis de Terme
Margaux (4ème Cru Classé)
2023
93
Dark blackcurrants and black cherries on the nose. Smooth and succulent, juicy and really quite bright and focussed. Clean and pure, there’s good grip but lots of freshness and lift too. Tannins are still quite firm and edgy, but they do well to support the fruit and I like the chalkiness on the palate. A little subdued at this point but friendly and will be lovely to approach in a few years.
Château Montlandrie
Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
2023
93
An attractive aromatic profile ranges from blackberry and cassis to chocolate brownie and floral. The first press of the Cabernet Sauvignon was so impressive that the estate used it for the first time, about 2%, and the impression left is of a wine with fine structure but also savoury, as the blend remains dominated by Merlot. Medium finish, with much class.
Château Moulin Riche
St-Julien
2023
93
Fragrant and appealing on the nose, lovely scents of fresh flowers - roses, raspberries and dark cherries. Smooth, soft and supple, a lovely succulence and balance of weight, tannins and acidity on the palate. Juicy and alive, tannins are fine and slightly grippy - just coating the mouth giving freshness and direction. Appealing plum and cherry. Balanced and friendly - the vintage suits this wine. A top-value pick.
Château Moulin St-Georges
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
93
As ever a lovely wine, even in this challenging vintage, with black cherry and wet stone. This has a certain austerity on the palate but with reasurring and pleasingly cool peppermint chocolate and seashell freshness. Some toasty notes from the oak complement obstruct the fruit a touch - the wine ages in 100% new oak. From a west-facing limestone hillside, near the southern entrance to St-Emilion, the soils of clay and limestone worked well for a solid 3.65pH to balance the alcohol. Potential for a higher score, but being careful here.
Château Palmer, Alter Ego
Margaux
2023
93
Gorgeous nose, so full, voluptuous, intensely aromatic, violets, blackcurrants, damsons, cherries, plums, tobacco and liquorice and cedar spice. Deep pink purple rim too. Nice weight straight away but with tension - you get clearly ripe fruit with such high acidity. Balanced, relatively lean but still juicy, certainly full and intense but streamlined ending on a real graphite and wet stone note. Slightly more lean and austere than some but not harsh, just not as fleshy as normal. It’s got body and style, nice movement and energy, a hint of fleshiness and subtle chew to the tannins. I like this, feels a real mix of ripe and cool with freshness on the finish. 3.75pH. 14% press.
Château Pape Clément
Pessac-Léognan (Cru Classé de Graves)
2023
93
With aromas of blackberry, plum and crushed tobacco offering promise, I feel that the palate comes across a touch over extracted, with tannins coming to the fore. The good news is less new oak, so that the estate aims for balance, but perhaps the 2023 vintage here is not ideal? In any case, while I appreciate the intensity of the palate, I feel that one should be more conservative until after the bottling, to see the extent to which the barrel ageing will soften the palate.
Château Pavie, Arômes de Pavie
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
93
Fragrant and floral with some savoury herbal notes too as well as graphite and pencil lead - bright and expressive with lots of Cabernet Franc notes. Supple and bouncy, gorgeous tannins, present and chalky - really filling the mouth but they have a lovely thick texture with a pristine clarity of juicy, almost sweet and chalky blue and red berry fruit underneath. Hint of mint on the finish, ending long and lifted. Really carefully worked, complete and calm. Feels quite effortless and will be delicious when it’s ready to drink. Nice balance overall with structure, acidity, fruit and freshness. Ageing 18 months, 50% new oak, 50% one year.
Château Pibran
Pauillac
2023
93
A terrific deal, when you want a Pauillac oozing with ripe plum and cassis delivered with smooth palate-coating tannins, well balanced, with seashell freshness on the long finish. Any raw tannin - yes there is some - will be resolved with the barrel ageing (40% new oak, well integrated). Talk about punching above its weight, this is an excellent Pibran!
Château Pichon Baron, Les Tourelles de Pichon Baron
Pauillac
2023
93
A touch of opulence about the nose, ripe and fragrant, perfumed. Clean but supple, a nice definition to the texture, a touch of wet stone grip with really ripe blackcurrants and cherries and lots of liquorice spice and clove towards the finish. Quite straight and streamlined, a firm backbone of spice, but lifted by ripe red fruits and mouthwatering acidity. Generous, but calm. Grippy and chalky, lots of minerality and gravel touches at the end. Easy to drink and nicely controlled. 12% press wine. 3.7pH. Ageing 12 months, 70% one year barrels and 30% new.
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Reserve de Comtesse
Pauillac
2023
93
Deep nose - lush, ripe fruit, chocolate, blackcurrants, smells sumptuous and rich but still with an element of graphite and cool minerality on the nose. Streamlined and well defined, lovely energy and focus and all in balance. Fruity with high acidity but not too sharp, not too angular. You can feel the power underneath and the minerality on top but it’s got good movement. Not so long, but it’s finessed and really easy to approach. If anything it’s a bit quiet right now, subtle and elegant, though this has structure and some firmness. Good quality. 12% press wine. Ageing 12 months, 50% new oak and 50% one year. 5% Cabernet Franc completes the blend. 3.67pH.
Château Quinault L'Enclos
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
93
A floral and scented nose with some elements of liquorice and toast - darkly fragrant. Expressive and bright on the palate, great high acidity, really lifted and just the right side of tart. Tannins are relatively fine but tight giving this some strictness and a firm backbone that drives the wine from start to finish. Finessed tannins, ripe fruit gives the weight and lots of minty freshness on the finish. A touch austere but juicy and clean. Still a little compact but will be nice for sooner drinking. 3.65pH.
Château Quintus
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
93
Really perfumed and expressive on the nose, lots of fragrance - dark purple flowers, blackcurrants, highly perfumed. Smells quite intense. Supple and agile, this has nice movement with plush tannins and chewy strawberry fruit with high acidity to balance the texture. Round and full in the mouth, fleshy but with a clean limestone, graphite undercurrent. Full bodied for the vintage, generous and super charming, the juicy and chunky Merlot giving width and depth to the body. Not streamlined as such as the texture and tannins are more present but there’s a nice vein of minerality that keeps the direction. Sweet, sour, tart and chalky. A bit firm, but there’s great structure. Generous and super charming. Easy to drink. 12 months ageing, 38% new. 25% grand vin production, this year with a little more Merlot where last year had more Cabernet Franc.
Château Rauzan-Ségla, Segla
Margaux
2023
93
Gorgeous aromatics, purple flowers and deep, ripe and fresh blackcurrants and cherries. Gorgeous crispness and crunch - full of life - but with powdery softly grippy tannins. Nicely constructed. Feels quite a serous second wine, lots of push and underlying power. Fruit forward, nicely alive and upfront with black cherries, plums and blueberries. Ends so long with a graphite and wet stone element. Lovely texture, almost thick but alive too, great mouthwatering acidity, lots of lift. Ends clean and precise, very approachable and a really great balance of vibrancy, depth and freshness this year all while being quite straight with a firm backbone. Ends chalky. 3.61pH.
Château Rol Valentin
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
93
Vividly ripe aromas of blackberry and plum with a slightly new oak polished sheen suggest more the winemaking than the terroir, but I like the freshness and subtle tannic power, sans hard edges. The medium bodied palate is balanced and barrel ageing (40% new oak) should make this more cohesive.
Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Le Petit Smith Haut Lafitte
Pessac-Léognan
2023
93
Nice bramble and herbal fragrance on the nose. Lovely weight, clearly a step up from Les Hauts, tense but straight, juicy and lean, a lovely balance of brightness and seriousness. I love the saline undercurrent and vibrant overtone. Still compact, but there’s such finesse here. I love the styling. Dynamic and energetic. Fine tannins, a soft powdery texture with structure and long finish. 3.65pH.
Château Sociando-Mallet, Cuvée Jean Gautreau
Haut-Médoc
2023
93
Bramble fruit and soft herbal accents on the nose. Fleshy and bright, creamy and soft, with both high toned fruit showing off the acidity as well as fine but prominent tannins. A little constricted on the finish, just fuelled slightly so you get more of a narrow but still long finish. I like the energy and focus, ending a little salty and dry but this should round out nicely. Lots of Cabernet freshness. 3.60pH. Ageing 100% new oak.
Château Talbot
St-Julien (4ème Cru Classé)
2023
93
As with many Médoc wines this vintage, Château Talbot shows off the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in its blend in recent memory, reflected in cool cassis and blueberry fruit, liquorice and cigar box aromas, leading to some plum and blackberry mid palate richness. Indeed, the palate evinces much depth, juiciness and salinity: all very good things that bode well for future complexity after barrel ageing (60% new oak) and five to ten years cellaring. But we are not in 2019 or 2020, as the finish does show some tannic austerity. All things considered, a very successful Talbot, and potential for a higher score in bottle.
Château Tronquoy
St-Estèphe
2023
93
Quite aromatic and perfumed on the nose, smells fresh and lively. Vivid purple colour to the rim. Smooth and silky, really tart and highly acidic, brightness and acidity is completely at the fore here, straight and well defined. Not lean in the sense that there’s too much minerality or any greenness - it’s not rustic at all, just the acidity is so high and it does keep quite a straight profile from start to finish. I like its punchy taste, upfront and confident, accessible and still with some finesse on the finish. Tannins are very well integrated and the Petit Verdot and oak is well incorporated too.
Château Tronquoy, Blanc de Tronquoy
Bordeaux Blanc
2023
93
Incredibly aromatic; honeysuckle, lemongrass, minerality, ripe peach and some bitter grapefruit. Great freshness and brightness here, lots of vivacity - some sharp, almost tart green apple countered by freshly cut pineapple with a touch of bitterness. Lovely lift and balance, ripe with a hint of sweetness but great mouth-filling texture and really elongated finish. On the high toned spectrum, acidity is at the fore with the almost bitter touches coming through strongly, but altogether really interesting and captivating. Keeps a direct frame, lean, and streamlined, not fat but there’s a touch of richness. Lemon and orange skin on the finish. Vinified and ageing only in barrels, 20% new oak for 12 months.
Château Troplong Mondot, Mondot
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
93
Smells quite buzzy and tangy on the nose. Fresh and clean, high toned, bright and expressive with red fruit. Tangy, a little bit of sherbet with just ripe plum, lots of crisp cranberry and blueberry alongside strawberry once the acidity settles. Softly saline on the finish with notes of wet stones and graphite. When it’s bottled and released this will be delicious. A top second wine. 3.45pH. Ageing 12-13 months, 50% tanks and 50% one year barrels.
Château Trotte Vieille, Dame de Trottevielle
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
93
Fun and fruity, a little strict and tight, but the has a good juiciness - lots of cherry juice and fruit with some cherry skin plushness too - a tiny bit of chew which gives a good, ample mouthfeel with lots of lifted freshness and a minty finish. Feels serious, but this will be a great second wine, lots of muscle and power, deep, dark, almost opulent in its perfumed and dark fruit notes, but keeps the lift. Clean, precise, ripe for sure but also has energy. Toasted but once that settles this will be nice. Ageing 12-14 months, 100% new oak.
Château Vray Croix de Gay
Pomerol
2023
93
Bramble bushes and freshly picked black summer berries with some dark chocolate elements. A little dark and sticky, quite savoury and toasted but not from the oak, some bitter coffee and liquorice elements with warming blackcurrant and black cherry fruit. Smooth and streamlined, this has a lovely precise and fresh element to the fruit, clean and crystalline. It’s not so plush, more linear, but doesn't feel like it’s missing any concentration or power. 3.75pH. 34hl/ha yield. Ageing 18 months, 30% new.
Clos Cantenac
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
93
Made from Merlot grapes picked between 13-25 September, this wine exudes juicy black plum, violet and espresso aromas, presaging a palate with smooth tannin, nuanced texture and freshness. 'We had more acidity in this vintage than in 2022', remarked co-owner Charlotte Krajewski, as 2023 proved cooler in general. A smooth, medium finish. Ageing 12 months in 45% new oak, the pH is around 3.6.
Clos L'Eglise
Pomerol
2023
93
Strong aromatics, really quite deep and opulent and rich. Tart and sour but then soft and almost creamy with some spiced notes in the background and some ferrous iron notes. Quite a lot of bite and tang. A little tight still, coiled and restricted on the finish by the wood and the slightly austere tannins but there’s good, slow expansion and a feeling of finesse as well as mouthwatering freshness. I like this, not charming as such but has some confidence and punch, although it’s a little toasted on the finish. Ageing 50-55% new oak.
Clos Saint Julien
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
93
Coming from a tiny, 1.2-ha vineyard, this wine exudes ripe plum and dark cherry, delivered in a rather fleshy palate with fine tannins although a bit open knit, lacking vigour on the mid palate, but showing off finesse and medium length. The oak is very well integrated, and I suspect that barrel ageing will fill out the palate: given all the ripe fruit and fine tannin, this is a nice wine in the making.
Clos St-Martin
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
93
Wonderfully fragrant on the nose, scented and aromatically really expressive. Ripe plummy, cherry fruit. Round and energetic, good persistence and focus here with bright acidity, juicy fleshy fruit and a firm structure. Tannins are present and fill the mouth while the cool blue and red fruit - blueberry and cranberry - provide the fruit forwardness. Lots of powdery, chalky minerality too. Should soften a touch over ageing but nice limestone salinity and graphite finish.
Vieux Chateau Saint André
St-Émilion (Montagne-St-Émilion)
2023
93
One of the very best wines of Montagne, this exhibits such pristine wet stone freshness, reflecting the soils from the limestone plateau. Add to that a solid maturity of fruit that brings forth red cherry and cool blueberry with a touch of sage and gourmet chocolate (aging in 20% new oak), you have a wine that will be ready early and last a good decade or more for added complexity. From winemakers Jean-Claude and son Jeff Berrouet, this wine is a no brainer for the price/quality ratio.
Château Arnauld
Haut-Médoc (Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel)
2023
92
Crunchy and grippy, but clean and taut. I like the expression, classic and fresh with cool blue fruit and liquorice and mint touches. Ends long and a touch dry but actually this is really appealing. Very drinkable and easy to approach. Menthol wet stone, good push and direction. Straight not plush at all, but enough density to be filling on the palate.
Château Badette
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
92
With engaging aromas of bright plum, red cherry and blackberry, liquorice and oak-derived toast, this 15% alcohol wine is balanced by the acidity in the 2023 vintage. Harvest between 28 September and 10 October brought in ripe fruit, and I like the tangy finish, although tannins do show some rawness, which 17 months of barrel ageing in 75% new oak should tame. An often under-the-radar wine that deserves attention.
Château Beauregard, Pavillon Beauregard
Pomerol
2023
92
Vibrant purple colour in the glass. Perfumed aromatics, floral. Tangy and bright, this has crisp and crunchy fruit which is nicely balanced by fine tannins and a mineral undertone. Friendly, easy to drink, super charming and full of energy and lift. A hint of graphite and bitterness lingers on the finish giving added complexity. Lifted. A yield of 42hl/ha. Harvest September 6-27. Ageing 12 months, 25% new oak.
Château Beauséjour, Croix de Beausejour
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
92
Smells fresh and floral, dark fruits but bright and super expressive. Clean and clear, crystalline - super tangy and zingy, but stops short of being tart and too lean. Definite element of chalkiness on the palate, but pixelated, you feel the soft grip of the tannins, a touch of wet stone with ripe dark fruit but not too chewy. Subtle and delicate, nicely finessed with so much drinkability on offer. Really quite charming and mouthwatering in a delicate way. Tastes slightly creamy as well as fresh on the finish. Lovely. Ageing 14-16 months, 40% new oak.
Château Belle Assise Coureau
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
92
Rich, lots of concentration - red berry summer fruits with some dark cherry too. Nice bite and high acidity gives the tang but well balanced with the tannins and all in one. Some tension but this is focussed with broad shoulders and a long finish. Liquorice, toast, sticky blackcurrants and some pepper on the finish with fresh mint. A good, accessible example. A yield of 41hl/ha. 3.62pH.
Château Branas Grand Poujeaux
Moulis-en-Médoc
2023
92
Rich and concentrated, quite a full expression, a little extracted with a touch dry blackcurrant, black cherry and plum fruit, but there’s concentration and juiciness here, just all quite forward and potent. But there is finesse too, and I think in time this will settle and become very pleasant. Feels well constructed, muscular, and strong. Ageing 50% new oak, 8% amphoras.
Château Brane-Cantenac, Baron de Brane
Margaux
2023
92
Ripe and floral notes on the nose, really quite expressive and open aromatically. There’s a richness to the scents with ripe blackcurrants, cherries and touches of rose and violets too with some milk chocolate. Supple and tart, high acidity, juicy and ripe fruit, with crunchiness, quite lean but there’s great length with freshly picked mint and some cedar and herbal aspects. Crisp and clean, lovely purity and precision. Not so layered or plush but it’s fresh and inviting with lift and a lovely mineral undertone. Accessible. Ageing 12 months, 20% new oak. 14.5 press wine. Almost 100 IPT. 40% of production.
Château Chasse-Spleen
Moulis-en-Médoc
2023
92
A resurgence in quality in recent years at this historical estate is confirmed in 2023, with pleasing forest strawberry and blue fruit coolness presaging a juicy palate albeit with some unresolved (bordering on hard) tannins towards the finish. Nonetheless, the wine is nicely balanced between alcohol and acidity, with the type of tannin that barrel ageing (40% new oak barrels) will tame as planned. A lovely Moulis in the making.
Château Cos d'Estournel, Les Pagodes de Cos
St-Estèphe
2023
92
Strongly aromatic on the nose, the Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot really making their mark despite comprising only 2% of the blend each. Vivid pink/purple in the glass, amazing vibrancy to the colour. Bright and buzzy, great energy, a little powdery with the tannins at the fore giving the structure but good length and balance and weight. Grippy, expansive and fresh, lots of life and cool crunchy blue and red fruit at the fore. Ends dry and powdery. Feels a little subdued and taken over by the structure right now but there’s clearly power on show. Could be lovely in time. Ageing 20% new oak.
Château Côte de Baleau
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
92
Cropped at 50hl/ha, this Merlot-dominated blend at 14% alcohol has subtle floral aromas. Coming from 17 hectares of vines on sandy clay and limestone soils on southern slopes, the wine is rounded with rather soft, powdery tannins. A bit strict towards the finish line (not tart, but tangy) however, noticeably lacking that 'extra leap of ripeness' you get from a vintage like 2018, 2019 or 2020, but well crafted. An orange rind freshness on the medium finish reassures. Tasted twice with similar results. Ageing in 25% new oak.
Château Croix Cardinale
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
92
Supple and alive, generous on the palate, juicy and bright but clearly concentrated and ripe with fleshy tannins that fill the mouth and give a wide expression. Chunky almost, but it finishes clean, minty and lifted giving finesse. On the bolder spectrum, a lot going on here. Lots of herbal and spiced flavours with dark fruits and licks of liquorice. Structured and firm. A touch of juiciness adds a needed bounce. Ageing 28% new oak.
Château d'Aiguilhe
Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
2023
92
With almost chalky wet stone and ripe dark fruit aromas, this wine provides much pleasure, as it comes from limestone and clay soils on hillsides along the plateau of the appellation. With a 3.4pH to balance the alcohol, the tannins are a bit tight but the overall sense is of a cohesive, balanced and rounded palate that will gain from ageing in 20% new oak, with promising potential for a higher score.
Château de Barbe Blanche
St-Émilion (Lussac St-Émilion)
2023
92
A great wine that falls into a superb price/quality ratio category with sweet red berry fruit introducing slate minerality on the palate, coming from excellent limestone soils that work so well for Merlot. A savoury wine that even shows off a creamy mid palate.
Château de Beau-Site
St-Estèphe
2023
92
Fresh and floral, smells lovely. Bright aromatics and so perfumed. Succulent and clean, a touch of salty grip to the tannins that immediately fill the mouth and settle around the cheeks. Slightly chewy and slightly fleshy but with lots of liquorice, tobacco, graphite and some cedar touches that mark the finish. Good detail and streamlined nature. Solid, not heavy, very mineral. Will be easy to drink. Ageing 35% new, 35% one year, the rest tank. 2% Cabernet Franc completes the blend.
Château de la Huste
Fronsac
2023
92
With appealing floral and red fruit aspects, a bright nose, the wine has a high-toned palate with just 'ripe enough' fruit. One misses the plumper plum of a veritable grand millésime, but 16 months ageing in 40% new oak will broaden the palate. Picked between 13 September and 4 October, this Merlot-dominated blend has 14% alcohol. Tasted twice with similar results.
Château de Sales
Pomerol
2023
92
Plum, saline nose with a bit of slate. Cool fruit, some floral stem and oak-derived toast. The palate of this wine, ageing in 18% new oak, comes across as a clean and light bodied Pomerol, with fine mid palate concentration, pleasant red fruit and smooth tannin. A wine that will provide near term pleasure as one of the most affordable offerings in the appellation.
Château Desmirail
Margaux (3ème Cru Classé)
2023
92
Lively and bright, softly plump with razor-sharp tannins that give the focus and serious linearity but there’s concentration and ripeness here too alongside cedar, tobacco and dark chocolate. Feels finessed and streamlined but still with a vertical depth that extends nicely. Long finish.
Château Destieux
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
92
While the aromas reflect a bit too much oak along with ripe fruit, the palate reflects concentration, depth and ripe fruit. Some noticeable extraction on the finish detracts, but barrel ageing in 70% new oak should soften matters.
Château Duhart-Milon, Moulin de Duhart
Pauillac
2023
92
Fresh red fruits, crisp and crunchy with raspberry and cranberry. Juicy and fresh, really alive in the mouth, lovely soft tannins and bright acidity gives the sense of life. Clean and lean, there’s no flesh here at all, straight and well defined with powdery tannins and some hints of oak around the edges. Still quite quiet but defined, there’s tannins and structure but an easiness and cool classicism on show too.
Château Ferrière
Margaux (3ème Cru Classé)
2023
92
Nice pretty fragrance on the nose, roses and violet with raspberries and scented red cherries. Lively and bright, almost searing, quite tart and high toned. Nice chalky tannins give depth and some weight, it’s not too tense or too lean, just the fruit is on the bright side. Straight and streamlined, maybe missing some extra Margaux plumpness and charm, but this is light and approachable. A touch austere but follows the vintage in this way. Long mineral edged finish with liquorice, dark chocolate, bitter toast and some cedar. Good energy. 0.5% Cabernet Franc completes the blend. 40hl/ha yield. 3.79pH.
Château Fourcas Hosten
Listrac-Médoc
2023
92
One of the top Listracs assessed from barrel, with plenty of cool cassis, mint freshness and ripe red berry fruit, leading to even a creamy mid palate that packs the punch of no less than a 90IPT - a high tannin content that isn't obvious, even if you can tell that there is tannin. Cooler clay and limestone certainly a plus here for the summer heat waves and the majority Merlots. Along with evident structure for the long term, this wine has charm. Ageing in 30% new oak.
Château Franc Mayne
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
92
With appealing aromas of ripe dark fruit, raspberry jam, orange rind and coffee bean, this wine – 100% Merlot ageing 16 months in 50% new oak barrels – offers fine texture, albeit somewhat larger grained tannins than the top St-Emilion Grand Cru Classé wines. There is a bit of a mouth puckering aspect to the finish, but the savoury mid palate and juiciness bode well for the barrel ageing to arrange matters.
Château George 7
Fronsac
2023
92
Expressive on the nose, floral and aromatic with dark berry fruit. Sleek but well textured, a nice weight and push in the mouth. Acidity on the pronounced side giving this some tang and bite, but stays the right side with lots of minerality and liquorice aspects coming in making this quite a serious wine. Understated power but delivered with poise. Raspberry and cranberry fruit is aligned to powdery tannins, graphite and toast. A success in 2023.
Château Granins Grand Poujeaux
Moulis-en-Médoc
2023
92
Fruit forward, round and fun to drink, with somewhat grainy tannins that barrel ageing - in 30% new oak - should smoothen, and I get a sense of carefully selected Merlots from colder clay here. It is certainly fun to drink, with a medium finish marked by seashell freshness.
Château Gruaud-Larose, Sarget de Gruaud-Larose
St-Julien
2023
92
Dark berries on the nose, lots of herbal tones, blackcurrant and clove spice. Really bright and vibrant, juicy and so succulent. Clean and crisp, lots of menthol freshness with clove and cedar. I love the graphite mineral undertone that lingers on the finish. Clean, lean, straight, but extremely well defined and finessed with crisp red fruits, strawberry, cranberry and just-ripe raspberry. Tangy, slick and straight but alive with personality. A great second wine, punchy and forthright. 3.5% Petit Verdot completes the blend.
Château Haut-Carles
Fronsac
2023
92
Located at the top of the Fronsac appellation on the other side of Château de la Rivière, with excellent clay and chalk soils, this blend emits lovely cherry, liquorice and damson aromas with a palate that is smooth and layered in depth. The 50% new oak should loosen some of the tight tannins encountered but overall, an excellent Fronsac, and more focused than the sister estate Château de Carles.
Château L'Étampe
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
92
Lovely, fresh nose with bright red berry fruit and plum. The palate has nuance and punch. Ageing in no new oak, the wine is crafted from but 1.5 hectares of vines located between La Marzelle and La Dominique: a promising estate under consultation of Hubert de Bouard.
Château L'Évangile, Blason de L'Évangile
Pomerol
2023
92
Gorgeous aromatics, perfumed and lively, really scented and lifted on the nose - dark chocolate and blackcurrant. Bright and punchy, but soft and generous too, a gravel minerality to the tannins which give the structure and coats the mouth in a fine layer of powdery, chalkiness. It’s soft and caressing, not too high in acidity at all, the tannins quite present but a nice enveloping of the mouth. Smooth and suave, but not too firm. I like the balance here, soft hints of herbal Cabernet mint and liquorice leave a lasting impression. A touch spicy on the finish but this is really charming in a gentle and calm way. Great stuff. Acidity doesn't stick out, more a Left Bank style, still with tension in the middle - it has a backbone and keeps the focus but with a gentle expansion. Ageing 20% concrete tanks, 15% new oak. 3.8pH.
Château La Chenade
Lalande-de-Pomerol
2023
92
Vividly fresh red berry fruit and agreable sweet notes of strawberry jam presage a palate of fine structure delivered in suave tannins. Cool clay soils proved excellent for the Merlots, which make up the entirety of the wine. While easy to drink already, the wine has enough structure for consumers to pack away in their Eurocaves, with an excellent longer term drinking window. With a pH of 3.72
Château La Croix du Casse
Pomerol
2023
92
Punchy and bright, lively and high toned with plenty of juiciness on show. A touch restricted and lacking a little in Pomerol plushness but there’s energy and brightness with some serious tannins and edges of tobacco, dried herbs, liquorice and cedar. Quite robust and a bit severe and tight on the end but nice freshness.
Château La Tour Carnet
Haut-Médoc
2023
92
The usual opulent style of this estate, often driven by ripe Merlots – and this blend counts no less than three-quarters of that grape – escapes me in this more subdued outing in this vintage, with an almost steely aspect to the palate. The tannins are not hard, but they are not sumptuous, either. I do like some mid-palate juiciness, with a deft expression of plum and blackberry. Furthermore, ageing will soften the the structure. Tasted three times with similar results.
Château La Violette
Pomerol
2023
92
Perfumed and aromatic on the nose. Cool straight away, blueberries and blue cherries, really quite fresh and minty. Quite light, perhaps missing a touch more plushness, but it’s direct and streamlined with a really long finish. Smooth tannins, well built and nicely structured. Ageing 70% new oak.
Château Laroze
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
92
Red berry and ripe plum aromas introduce a broad attack reflected in rather fine tannins, with some extraction felt, but overall smooth - the type of wine for which barrel aging will improve the tone, given the savoury, ripe fruit. There is excellent structure as well for cellaring. Aging in 60% new oak.
Château Larrivaux
Haut-Médoc
2023
92
Lovely floral and ripe red fruit introduce a wine with smooth tannins, not too tight or austere towards the finish and thus more good news for the 2023 vintage. Basile Tesseron, formerly with Château Lafon Rochet in St-Estèphe, has joined his wife and estate owner Bérangère Tesseron for their first vintage together at this estate. Major renovation work is planned this year in the cellars.
Château Latour-Martillac
Pessac-Léognan (Cru Classé de Graves)
2023
92
Lovely aromas and flavours of leafy tobacco, red fruit and plum enchant, and the palate has freshness and verve, but the tannins show some austerity that needs to be resolved. Conservative score, as we await the 14 months ageing in 40% new oak.
Château Laurence
Bordeaux Supérieur
2023
92
This 100% Merlot enchants with damson, forest strawberry and raspberry freshness: a smooth palate with savoury and succulent fruit ripeness, with touches of milk chocolate to complement the fruit, and even if the tannins have some austerity, the wine will come around with the 30% new oak barrel ageing. Talk about punching above the appellation weight!
Château Le Bon Pasteur
Pomerol
2023
92
Pleasing aromas of strawberry and plum presage a smooth palate with damn delicious savoury notes, including some fine milk chocolate. Although a bit of hard tannin is noticeable on the finish, the barrel ageing should resolve matters.
Château Le Chatelet
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
92
Clean and precise though this has a touch of chew to the tannins too, a little fleshy and minty with a chalkiness to the expression. It’s focussed and a little quiet but I do like the hint of sweet strawberry on the mid palate with a grip to the finish. Finessed salty and pure. Just very shy right now. Potential for upscore in bottle.
Château Le Crock
St-Estèphe (Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel)
2023
92
Aromatic and floral with some milk chocolate and red cherries. Sleek and clean, lovely purity and direction from start to finish. Crunchy and really charming, not so austere or too acidic, not layered either but feels like they struck a nice balance and got some easy charm out of this. Hints of liquorice, graphite and cedar give the spice at the end as well as some tension throughout. 2% Cabernet Franc completes the blend.
Château Le Gay
Pomerol
2023
92
Dark fruit, smoky and noticeable oak-derived aromas. The attack is broad, yet concentrated, even powerful, with a full-bodied texture showcasing plum and blackberry. An impressive wine but also noticeable tannin extraction that dries a bit. Let's see how it shows after the barrel ageing.
Château Le Prieuré
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
92
Spring bouquet and red berry aromatics leap from the glass, introducing a bright attack on the palate, which reflects tangy raspberry as well as brightness, nuanced depth and freshness: a success from St-Emilion this vintage, although the tannins are a bit tight overall. Planted on clay and limestone soils, the vineyard includes Merlots that average 33 years of age, and that reveal a certain wet stone minerality on the mid palate. Managed by the team of Château Calon Ségur, where it was tasted. Conservative score as the 30% new oak ageing (18 months) should soften the tannins and broaden the palate.
Château Léoville Poyferré, Pavillon de Léoville Poyferré
St-Julien
2023
92
Some herbal tones on the nose, green cabernet markers, menthol, liquorice and bramble fruit. Rich and ripe, a feeling of plush fruit with gorgeous soft tannins. A touch of spice and real lick of graphite, liquorice and cedar gives the spiced aspect around the sides of the mouth but this has lots of freshness too. Lifted and pure. Really nicely framed. Juicy and easy. Not so layered, but equally very easy going. Feels like they've taken the foot off the pedal, which is totally right and suits the estate - more finesse on show than usual in this second wine. 6% Petit Verdot completes the blend.
Château Lespault-Martillac
Pessac-Léognan
2023
92
Tasted twice, and I am sold on this wine's light fruit basket aromatics with tobacco leaf and dark chocolate, all rather savoury. Rather mouth coating with somewhat tight tannin, but ageing in barrel - 35% new oak - will smoothen that and I think this will be lovely upon release.
Château Lynch-Bages, Echo de Lynch Bages
Pauillac
2023
92
Ripe plums and black cherries on the nose, really quite intense and bright. Vibrant but rich too. A lot of high acidity, really quite prominent, verging on sharp, but lifts the expression and gives a real edge to the red fruits on the palate. Sleek, well defined, but this also has some chew and flesh as well as bite. It’s a little high toned, but actually once it’s settles it’ll be lovely for sooner drinking. Bright, young, buzzy and easy.
Château Maillet
Pomerol
2023
92
Ripe black cherry and plum aromas and flavours enchant in a round and smooth palate, with rather intense black cherry notes marking the medium finish. 100% vinification in barrel, balanced well enough although you do notice the toast and vanilla from the new oak. I like the Cabernet Sauvignon that lends needed structure, so let's see how it does once bottled.
Château Mauvesin Barton
Moulis-en-Médoc
2023
92
Crafted from grapes harvested between 14-26 September, this wine displays red brambly fruit and a structured yet savoury palate, that will reward cellaring. Ageing in 33% new oak.
Château Montrose, Dame de Montrose
St-Estèphe
2023
92
Crisp and crunchy cranberry aromas on the nose, fresh and vibrant - herbal, floral, fruity. Smooth and supple, so lively, bright and acidic, really lifted and almost verging on tart. I love it though, manages to be fresh yet with ripeness of tannins that slowly expand in the mouth while also giving structure and a well-defined outline. Streamlined and straight. Polished and characterful with lovely purity of fruit. Ageing 12 months, using 5% foudre 5% amphora, 10% new oak and the rest aged barrels. 2% Cabernet Franc completes the blend.
Château Nénin, Fugue de Nénin
Pomerol
2023
92
Smells wildly aromatic, deep and darkly scented with purple fruit and dark berries. Juicy and bright, really lively and energetic, clean and pure. Not dense but very approachable with lashings of mint and liquorice spice on the finish. Pristine and finessed, dark and slightly tense on the finish. Easy and lots to like. So lifted and really long. Quite an opulent taste to this - dark, spiced berries the whole way through but lifted by acidity.
Château Ormes de Pez
St-Estèphe
2023
92
Some nice aromatics, not massively expressive. Blackcurrant, plum and cranberry - all crisp fruit aspects. A little tart and high toned, but there’s such ripeness too so you get high acidity with quite concentration that give a wide mouthfeel and under it all there’s freshness and a cool mint tone. Lots going on with a steely core too. Not quite harmonised but will be lovely. 7% press wine. 6% Petit Verdot completes the blend.
Château Pédesclaux, Fleur de Pedesclaux
Pauillac
2023
92
Cool blue aromatics on the nose. Quite tart and sour, high acidity but straight with lovely licks of wet stone. Crunchy cranberry, on the just-ripe red fruit spectrum, tannins are lovely and this has really welcome juiciness, so charming with a mineral powderiness that lingers on the finish. A good second wine here, depth, finesse and tension with mint and herbal Cabernet spice on the finish. 3.74pH. 2% Cabernet Franc completes the blend. Ageing 30% new oak. 12% press wine.
Château Petit Faurie de Soutard
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
92
I like the minty red fruit freshness emanating from this wine, which comes across deceptively open knit at first, but then you sense underlying power and tannic grip, with the limestone and clay soils contributing to that sense. Some unresolved borderline drying tannin on the finish, but I suspect that the barrel ageing in 50% new oak will soften that.
Château Petit-Village, Le Petit
Pomerol
2023
92
Smoky nose full of tobacco, coffee, dried herbs, dark chocolate and blackcurrants. Soft and smooth, lovely density and expansion in the mouth. Concentrated black fruits with mineral crushed stone accents. Very approachable with a bright finish. First vintage certified organic.
Château Pichon Baron, Les Griffons de Pichon Baron
Pauillac
2023
92
Lots of Cabernet herbal markers on the nose, blackcurrant leaf, menthol, clove, tobacco, dark chocolate and bramble berries. Rich and deep but smooth and grippy, I love the cool freshness you get here, really saline and mineral - graphite, wet stones and pencil lead. A controlled wine, well defined, harmonious, nothing sticking out, with lifted acidity. Quite lean, and prominent minerality on the finish gives some tension and compaction, but I like the weight and think this will age well. 3.8pH. 7% press wine. Ageing 15 months, 50% new oak. 21% of production.
Château Plain-Point
Fronsac
2023
92
Fresh and lively, a gorgeous purity of fruit to this, crystalline and focussed. Excellent concentration and quite high acidity which makes this both bright and deep but straight and streamlined too with a real mineral core. Succulent and moreish, feels well made. First vintage in the enormous and brand new state-of-the-art cellar. An estate to watch. Ageing in 30% new oak.
Château Reynon
Premières Côtes de Bordeaux
2023
92
What a revelation, and for a great price. Sweet ripe fruit aromas (both red and black) with a touch of floral introduce a smooth palate exuding bright and ripe fruit and a refined tannic aspect overall. Quite a nice expression for the vintage! Coming from a variety of soils including deep gravel on clay at the top of the hill, with cooler limestone area at the mid-slope, the wine has no rough edges – great for the vintage – even if it lacks the ripe mid-palate concentration of a sunnier vintage. Ageing in 33% new oak will broaden the palate.
Château Sansonnet
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
92
Aromas of dark plum and vanilla toast denote the 70% new oak ageing, which comes to the fore on the palate. I appreciate the evident depth and power in this wine, along with red and dark ripe fruit, the style is too oak-ridden for its own good, blocking a purer expression of the magnificent limestone and clay terroir at this estate. Let's see after barrel ageing to be sure, but for now a score marked more by respect for the care taken to craft this wine, made from grapes harvested between 20 September and 3 October.
Château Saransot-Dupré
Listrac-Médoc (Cru Bourgeois Supérieur)
2023
92
An excellent expression of Merlot benefitting from cooler clay-limestone Listrac soils, and the addition of no less than 16% Petit Verdot adds exciting spiciness to the wine. Sure, some raw tannins but barrel ageing in 15% new oak is sure to smoothen these out, and I love the seashell freshness on a long finish. A sleeper of the vintage.
Château Séraphine, Innocence de Séraphine
Pomerol
2023
92
A sweet herb and floral aspect leaps from the glass, denoting some Cabernet Franc freshness, and the palate shows balance: at once frank, juicy and savoury, with some Havanna cigar and cedar. A touch of raw tannin on the finish, but with a lovely balance of oak and fruit - and ageing should round it all out. Medium, cool finish.
Château Siaurac
Lalande-de-Pomerol
2023
92
Crisp and fresh red fruits on the nose. Crunchy and bright, quite high toned but with licks of wet stone give a really mineral undertone. Lean and salty, but with pristine fruit and a sense of clarity. A little strict and tense but well constructed. Juicy, succulent and really easy. Unfussy, straight and fine. Ageing 14 months, 35% French oak, 60% concrete, 5% amphora. 42hl/ha yield.
Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Les Hauts de Smith
Pessac-Léognan
2023
92
Cranberry, dried flowers, cherries on the nose. Smooth and supple, a really juicy core, this is fun and lively with a touch of bounce to the palate. Lovely crushed velvet textured tannins, ripe cherry and blackcurrant fruit with some salinity on the finish. Friendly, generous and all in balance. 3.65pH.
Château Villars
Fronsac
2023
92
A reliable brand, this wine exhibits floral and red berry fruit, from a sample drawn four days beforehand. Some tight tannin, but excellent mid palate depth and a robust overall expression with ripe blackberry and plum leading to a medium finish. Is the somewhat raw tannin due to a sample being a bit old? Ageing in 25% new oak should soften any edges. The nearly 14.5% alcohol is nicely balanced by a the 3.63pH. Harvested from 20 September to 4 October, with a healthy yield of 43hl/ha.
Château Villemaurine
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
92
Made from grapes harvested between September 20 and October 2, this wine displays engaging aromas of ripe plum and violets, which introduce a juicy palate and plenty of ripe fruit. However, the oak component - 70% new - comes too much to the fore at this early stage, obstructing the charm one would expect from this vintage, even if the wine conveys impressive depth, with a low 3.46pH that reflects vivacity. For now, a conservative score: let's see how it develops with the 16 months of barrel ageing.
Château Yon-Figeac
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
92
I like this wine's rather fresh aromatics with ripe fruit and floral freshness, reflected in a palate with elegance and lift on the medium finish. Crafted from grapes picked between September 6-28, the wine shows mid-palate concentration and density that could be better, betraying a 'mid-calibre' vintage. And yet, this wine shows shines brighter than some grand cru classé peers with harder-to-resolve tannins, leaving an overall impression of refinement. Barrel ageing should broaden the palate and result in a higher score.
Clos Cantenac, Petit Cantenac
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
92
Crisp and bright blue fruit fruit nose with a smooth and savoury palate - a certain umami aspect - this is an excellent second wine from the talented Martin and Charlotte Krajewski. I like the hint of crushed mint and graphite from the Cabernets. Production varies year to year, but this year proved healthy with 45 hectoliters per hectare and about 18,000 bottles. I appreciate the wine's supple tannin, nicely polished but with structure. The pH is around 3.6.
Clos de l'Oratoire
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
92
Smooth and supple, great energy and movement, a lovely chalky but ripe body with textured tannins and a fresh crunchy plum, cranberry and cherry fruit presence. I like the styling, it’s full but equally quite tense and straight. Ends minty and lifted with elegance and finesse.
Clos des Jacobins
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
92
Sweet and agreable plum and blackberry fruit fruit, with a supple palate that comes across a touch jammy. I would give this Grand Cru Classé a higher score but for some slightly drying tannins on the finish, leaving the impression of high alcohol leaching some new oak aspects (it is ageing in 60% new oak). Let's see how it tastes from bottle, so a rather conservative score.
Clos Fourtet, La Closerie de Clos Fourtet
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
92
Ripe and sweet damsons on the nose, dark fruit and some floral reflections - quite an expressive nose. Supple and agile, a nice energy to this and lovely succulence of cool blue fruit with some ripe red cherries. Really juicy but not lean or too high in acidity. Easy to enjoy. lifted, fresh, no rough edges. No harshness, all balanced and harmonious. A light but enjoyable glass. 15% of the massale selection Cabernet Franc went into this blend, with some grapes on the limestone plateau making their wine into this second wine for the first time. Ageing 20% new oak, and after one and two year barrels.
Clos Saint Vincent
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
92
From GA Grands Crus (same owner for Châteaux Meyney and Grand Puy Ducasse, among others), this St-Emilion Grand Cru appeals with ripe strawberry and plum with hints of vanilla bean. A friendly wine that ends with a fresh minty medium finish from the nearly 30% Cabernet Franc.
Couvent des Jacobins
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
92
With aromas of ripe red and dark fruit and smoky and spicy notes, the attack is bright and intense, with a more linear mid palate, not as opulent as last year to be sure, but with attractive precision and energy, although the tannins harden and dry a bit on the finish. Let’s see how the wine develops after ageing - in 60% new oak. A conservative score for now.
Domaine Baudon, Les Terres Blanches
St-Émilion (Montagne-St-Émilion)
2023
92
Powerful and fruit forward. Softly extracted but clearly ripe and concentrated with lots of push. Fresh and focussed with mint on the finish. Long and friendly. 25% whole cluster fermentation.
Domaine de la Solitude
Pessac-Léognan
2023
92
The wine shows more structure than normal, reflecting Cabernet Sauvignon dominance, with graphite, but it also exudes a pleasing thirst-quenching aspect with fresh mint and ripe, tangy red fruit. Ageing in 30% new oak will soften the structure and improve the wine.
Domaine Simon Blanchard, Au Champ de la Fenêtre
St-Émilion (Montagne-St-Émilion)
2023
92
Lifted and bright, nice liveliness on the palate with a touch of creaminess too. Quite concentrated dark fruits alongside enjoyable freshness. Ageing 38% new oak. 15% whole cluster fermentation with all grapes vinified together.
Domaine Simon Blanchard, Guitard
St-Émilion (Montagne-St-Émilion)
2023
92
Juicy and clean, this keeps a strict line, focused and straight. I like the finesse and the purity with lots of freshness allied to black berry fruit and a touch of minerality on the finish. 25% whole cluster fermentation for the Cabernet Franc. Ageing 64% new oak.
Le Clos du Beau-Pere
Pomerol
2023
92
Attractive red berry fruit and plum lead to mid palate juiciness, although somewhat drying tannins detract from the final sensation. Give it time to soften with the barrel ageing.
Saintayme
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
92
This has a profile of ripe black and red fruit, with a forest strawberry cool aspect. The palate shows impressive arc, and you sense the tannin although I was surprised to hear that it measured over 80 on the IPT scale. The wine is balanced between the 14.6% alcohol and a pH of 3.6. Ageing in 30% new oak, this 100% Merlot thus combines a tannic power with ripe fruit and some opulence. The wine will benefit from both the barrel ageing and time in your cellar.
Vieux Chateau Mazerat
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
92
Made by a single-vineyard surrounding Le Dôme, this has a fragranced nose, really expressive and fresh - blackcurrant and plum. Juicy, textured, tannins are at the fore, quite present but with cool licks of liquorice, graphite and minerality. Quite a punchy, broad style, muscular and wide, there’s depth here and opulence but it’s also got focus. Ends clean and fresh, lots of acidity and mouthwatering fruit. Clean, but charged.
Château Haut-Batailley, Verso
Pauillac
2023
91
Really quite ripe notes on the nose, good aromatics, quite plummy. Nice weight on the palate, supple, good energy and acidity, a little lean and straight but enjoyable acidity gives the lift and there’s lots of freshly picked red berries and crunchy freshness. Ends a touch powdery and salty which is enjoyable. No Petit Verdot in the blend as it all went into the grand vin. 3.52pH.
Château Angélus, No.3
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
91
Beautiful fragrance - so pretty, roses and raspberries. A little carbonic, a tiny bit spritzy on the palate. Gorgeous purity and cleanness, bramble fruit, hints of herbal spice with mint and minerality. Grippy tannins are fine giving a soft support but firm structure. Nice expression, lively and pure. I love the soft juiciness, it’s clean and clear, all very generous and in line, nothing shouting, the acidity not too much, very precise and pure. This has tension with a soft expansion, lots of drinkability on offer here. Ends mineral and really long. 3.6pH. Ageing 35-40% new oak.
Château Balestard La Tonnelle
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
91
For too many years, this estate featured excessive oak extraction and drying tannin but not so this vintage, and I say bravo. There is ripe fruit, smooth tannin, a rather juicy mid palate and a medium finish. While it does not match the upper echelons among the Grands Crus Classés in St-Emilion for seashell freshness and minerality, it is a solid wine.
Château Barreyres
Haut-Médoc (Cru Bourgeois)
2023
91
With brambly red and dark fruit, ageing in 20% new oak, this wine has a fun and juicy palate, with subtle opulence from the majority of Merlot in the blend. A straightforward pleaser with no rough angles. Tasted twice with similar results.
Chateau Bel Air Gloria
Haut-Médoc
2023
91
Red and black ripe fruit aromas presage a smooth palate with seashell freshness leading to a pleasing, medium finish. As the estate reported, they needed to 'select carefully from among the plots to reach full maturity'. This paid dividends for the September 13 to October 3 harvest, with more rounded tannins than many of this estate's Haut-Médoc peers, even if one on occasion the tannins seemed firmer, but nothing that the barrel ageing won't soften. Tasted twice.
Château Bibian
Haut-Médoc
2023
91
With floral aromas, damson and blackberry, this wine has a smooth palate with an appealing juiciness and a medium, fresh finish. What is not to like?
Château Bourgneuf
Pomerol
2023
91
Highly floral and fragrant, really scented - almost evocative, ripe and opulent. Dark fruits give this a very Pomerol accent on the nose. Ripe and fresh, nice weight and texture with great juiciness too - clean and direct, lots of minerality and graphite which give a bit of austerity and tension.
Château Calon Ségur, Le Marquis de Calon Ségur
St-Estèphe
2023
91
Dark fragrance to the nose. A little tight but this also has an ease about it with density to the grippy tannins that have a fruity, fleshy aspect to them as well as a clear wet stone, slate minerality that lingers on the tongue. A little firm on the finish, but structured and polished still with a juicy mouthwatering red cherry centre. Will be nice to taste it calms. Not so long but there’s nice character here nonetheless. 3.6pH. Ageing 17 months, 30% new. 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend.
Château Camensac
Haut-Médoc (5ème Cru Classé)
2023
91
After tasting this wine twice, I came away with a sense of both fresh meadow grass with spring flower and crunchy red fruit, almost but not touching underripe: in sum, a friendly, chipper wine that may not make old bones but will provide much pleasure for an upscale summer barbecue. Indeed, the barrel ageing will broaden the palate, and the price is competitive.
Château Cantemerle
Haut-Médoc (5ème Cru Classé)
2023
91
Nice aromatics, floral and red berry tones. Crisp and crunchy red fruit, high acidity but not too tart which then turns a little creamy with a soft powderiness to the tannins on the finish. This has a good lift and is well made, with cool fresh tones throughout. It’s still a little lean and austere - fairly light and tapered but has an element of class with lots of drinkability. A yield of 43hl/ha. 4% Petit Verdot completes the blend.
Château Cap de Mourlin
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
91
One of the more polite wines tasted among the Grands Cru Classés, with understated notes of ripe fruit and oak-derived espresso. The tannins are of a medium grain, lacking the finesse of the top wines in this category, but a soft - even creamy - mid palate lends appeal, with the high alcohol balanced by acidity. Medium finish. Ageing in barrel should broaden the palate.
Château Carbonnieux
Pessac-Léognan (Cru Classé de Graves)
2023
91
Brambly red fruit and leafy tobacco freshness, delivered in a medium-bodied palate. And while the freshness appeals, I sense a slight hollowness in the mid palate. Ageing should fill in the gap, but a conservative score for now.
Château Carignan
Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux
2023
91
For a nice price, you get crushed herbs and chipper red berry fruit delivered in a savoury mid palate. With no new oak in the ageing, this is very fresh and fruit driven, balancing the nearly 14% alcohol with a low 3.50pH. Harvested on September 20 from vines grown on clay and limestone soils covered with stony gravel. A healthy yield of 35hl/ha.
Château Charmail
Haut-Médoc (Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel)
2023
91
With pleasing ripe cassis and plum, this wine in the northern Médoc shines albeit not as bright as some of the top Haut-Médocs, as I notice somewhat austere tannins, lacking some charm, but I like its mid-palate concentration and the iodine freshness on the finish that bodes well. Ageing in 33% new oak should smoothen some of the edges.
Château Cissac
Haut-Médoc (Cru Bourgeois)
2023
91
With vines near the Gironde Estuary far north in the Médoc, a textbook example of success from cooler Left Bank terroir in this vintage, with bright and brambly cassis and plum, delivered in a straightforward fashion. I like the mid-palate concentration and depth, although the finish is marked by somewhat strict tannins. In this case, barrel ageing in 25% new oak should smoothe such edges. Tasted twice with similar results.
Château Clerc Milon, Pastourelle de Clerc Milon
Pauillac
2023
91
Plum and black cherry. Round and smooth, a nice generous weight on the palate, rich and ripe black fruit with some crunchy cranberries too. Stylish, hints of both sharpness and ripeness giving a push/pull of flavour and texture. Clean and precise, a nice balance and ease of approachability. Some sweetness as well as cool blue fruits. 2% Carménère and 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend.
Château Clos Junet
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
91
Nicely scented, rich and vibrant on the nose with dark cherry aromatics. Smooth and succulent, high acidity gives bite with a chalky undercurrent. Good persistence and purity to the fruit aspects with some smoky, char toasted elements on the finish that lend some bitterness. Focussed, lifted and finessed. A yield of 39hl/ha. 3.6pH.
Château d'Issan, Blason d'Issan
Margaux
2023
91
Really expressive, dried flowers, green and red fruit. Herbal notes and dark, ripe black fruit on the palate with chalky minerality. It’s a little serious, though nicely defined, with a good weight. Juicy and clean, I like the style, it’s classy with lots of minty Cabernet freshness on the finish. Lifted if still a touch austere at this point. Could be upscored in bottle. 3.50pH. Ageing 35% new oak.
Château de France
Pessac-Léognan
2023
91
Ripe red and black fruit and oak derived toast aromas presage a medium bodied palate with a frank expression of plum and cool blueberry fruit and cigar smoke. A pleasant easy-going red that has enough tannic structure to gain complexity - and it will not break the bank
Château de Malleret
Haut-Médoc
2023
91
Fresh fruits, lots of just picked strawberries and red cherries - like opening a tin of fruit salad - amazing. Aromatic and forward, so inviting on the nose. Lovely structure and density, great minerality and tension, really focussed and driving in one line. Feels well made and constructed with some tension but there’s juiciness and flesh here too. Ripe and concentrated but fresh and cool with a grip to the tannins and lovely salty finish. Harvest started in the middle of September until October 11. Made with 95% indigenous yeasts from the vineyard. 3.75pH. 50% grand vin production. Yield of 19hl/ha.
Château de Pez, 2nd
St-Estèphe
2023
91
Smells gorgeous like a box of fruity chocolates and strawberry juice. Sleek and easy, a lovely smooth texture and light weight to this with super bright acidity that doesn't stick out too much at all. Lean, a little powdery minerality on the finish which adds texture. Easy to enjoy with liquorice and graphite at the end. Well handled. 10.5% press wine. Ageing no new oak, only one or two year old barrels for 12 months.
Château de Rochemorin
Pessac-Léognan
2023
91
Jacques Lurton has a Midas Touch with his wines and the 2023 vintage is no exception. Showing off ripe blackberry and plum fruit, but with fine tension (a low pH of 3.52) on the palate, this wine also exudes pleasing juiciness. The finish ends just a bit tart, but I suspect that barrel ageing will smoothen the edges. Conservative score.
Château du Courlat, Cuvée Jean-Baptiste
St-Émilion (Lussac St-Émilion)
2023
91
More floral and herbal than fruit-driven aromas presage a smooth palate – with a high tannic index of 90 IPT – that exudes plum and wet stone. A fine Lussac, 100% Merlot from vines grown on cooler clay and limestone soils. Ageing in 30% new oak.
Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, Le Petit Ducru
St-Julien
2023
91
Perfumed and open on the nose with blueberries, blue cherries, really fruit forward and almost opulent aromatics. Fragrant and scented. Quite tangy, a burst of just ripe red berry fruit with a liquorice and clove grip, some clear blueberry juice. Straight and focused, not so juicy or plush but well constructed. High acidity. 89 IPT, 3.73pH. Ageing 12 months, 30% new oak.
Château Fourcas-Dupré
Listrac-Médoc
2023
91
Very intensely dark colored wine, with high alcohol and acidity. One sample showcased a wall of tannin that urgently needs not only barrel ageing but also three to five years in your cellar, while another sample reflected a juicier mid-palate, a better sample. On both occasions the tannins show rawness, even if the wine has pleasing ripe fruit. For now, this wine lacks charm for a higher score, but impressive structure exists for ageing, so let's see after bottling.
Château Grand Corbin
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
91
Mentholated chocolate aromas with just ripe enough plum presage a broad attack, revealing a smoothly textured wine. Solid in its expression of ripe fruit and friendly warmth, with energy. Harvested between September 14 and October 6, this wine comes from a large, nearly 29ha vineyard, with a 40-year-old average vine age. It is ageing in 35% new oak.
Château Grand-Puy Ducasse
Pauillac (5ème Cru Classé)
2023
91
Quite dark coloured wine with blackcurrant, plum and some tar aromas. A robust palate reflects Pauillac power, but I sense a bit of tannic austerity. Tasted on a second occasion, and it was better, but on both occasions, it lacked the mid palate depth of the top Pauillacs in this vintage, but there is enough of a vinous nature to the wine, so let's see how it turns out after barrel ageing (35% new).
Château Haut Surget
Lalande-de-Pomerol
2023
91
Crunchy red fruit aromas and flavours lead to a smooth attack with a rather pleasingly creamy mid palate from this mechanically harvested and very well made Lalande de Pomerol. Although there is a note of austerity on the medium finish, the salinity bodes well, and there is much balance for the 14.5% alcohol. Ageing in one-year-old barrels and under the consulting of Hubert de Bouard.
Château Haut-Simard
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
91
With ripe red berry fruit and mint aromatics from the Cabernet Franc, this wine shows off crunchy ripe fruit - and even red apple - on the palate, slowly revealing subtle richness, surpassing the Château Simard by the same producers. Slightly perturbing, unresolved austerity bothers me, but I like the ripeness of the fruit in this medium-bodied wine ageing in 50% new oak. A conservative score: let's see how it tastes from bottle.
Château Haut-Surget
Lalande-de-Pomerol
2023
91
Crunchy red fruit aromas and flavours lead to a smooth attack with a rather pleasingly creamy mid palate from this mechanically harvested and very well made Lalande-de-Pomerol. Although there is a note of austerity on the medium finish, the salinity bodes well, and there is much balance for the 14.5% alcohol. Ageing in one-year-old barrels and under the consulting of Hubert de Bouard.
Chateau Joanin Bécot
Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
2023
91
Chalky, ripe black fruit on the nose with blackcurrant, raspberry, cherry and plum on the palate. Quite tense - there’s some linearity to this, direct and quite lean with a salty, liquorice and dark chocolate core. More juicy on the second taste with red fruits - cranberry and red cherry - alongside powdery tannins that fill the mouth. Charming though still straight and a touch lean with licks of wet stone and menthol freshness on the finish. 3.5pH.
Château La Couspaude
St-Émilion
2023
91
With black cherry, liquorice and plum, this wine comes across tangier than usual, with less oak influence, and proves to be a pleasure to drink, with medium length.
Château La Croix de Gay
Pomerol
2023
91
A lighter-styled Pomerol that works for me in this vintage as it exudes elegance with mid palate plum and red fruit juiciness, accentuated by light oak-derived toast. A hint of chopped herb adds freshness to the finish. A wine to enjoy on the younger side.
Château La Fleur Morange
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
91
Faded rose, potpourri, cracked bell pepper and light red and blackberry aromas presage a brisk attack and nuanced palate, with soft, subtle expressions of ripe fruit, as well as tannic backbone. A wine that should expand after the barrel ageing, with nicely integrated 100% new oak. However, the rather closed expressions leaves me with the impression of being almost too polite for its own good. Let's see from bottle, as the wine shows potential.
Château La Marzelle
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
91
More a modern style meaning oak extraction with toast and clove, rather prominent but also juicy plum fruit. A palate that shows both breadth and depth, reflecting some cool blue clay concentration. The finish is a bit tight but that should be resolved with the barrel ageing.
Château La Serre
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
91
I like the bright ripe red berry fruit aromatics with an attack that packs energy and ripeness, leading to a rather juicy mid palate. Alas, the tannin dries just a bit on the finish. Let's see how this wine performs after the barrel ageing.
Château Lascombes, Chevalier de Lascombes
Margaux
2023
91
Quite a fragrant nose, really floral and heavily scented with black berry fruit and some red cherry notes. Crisp and chalky, this has a lovely fresh bite and tang to the strawberry fruit, more red on the palate with a clear, crystalline base of powdery minerality. A touch tense in terms of focus but there’s nice softness too, expanding slowly with a long length. An encouraging second wine with some underlying power. Clean and precise. A little toasted on the finish, graphite, cedar, coffee and dark chocolate. 3.70pH. A yield of 35hl/h. First vintage under director Axel Heinz. Julien Viaud consultant.
Château Latour, Pauillac
Pauillac
2023
91
Nice aromatic intensity, red and some green fruits, herbal scents and floral accents, smells fresh and lively. Quite tart and bright, but soft at the same time. The toastiness is apparent causing some edges to the tannins but this has a sense of finesse too. Crunchy strawberry and cranberry fruit, high acidity, but countered by mineral tannins that give the graphite on the finish. Tangy and lively an ‘al dente’ wine. Straight and streamlined with a long finish. Ageing 15 months 34% new oak. 3.61pH.
Château Le Thil
Pessac-Léognan
2023
91
Dark nose, full of cedar and liquorice and cedar. Quite a punchy nose with blackcurrant and bramble fruit. Straight and serious, focussed and clear, lovely pristine nature of the wines. Sharp and tangy but relaxed too, it softens with a chalky undercurrent and lots of graphite minerality. Clear terroir influence with some tension and some compaction. It’s streamlined and quite tense but has nice style. 3.65pH.
Château Les Hauts-Conseillants
Lalande-de-Pomerol
2023
91
Mint freshness and plum aspects imbue this wine, which has a rather high tannic index of 80, and yet the ripe black fruit impresses with its juiciness and suave expression of tannin. Crafted by the same team from Clos du Clocher in Pomerol. After ageing in 35% new oak, this should come out nicely.
Château Lynch-Moussas, Hauts de Lynch-Moussas
Haut-Médoc
2023
91
Dark nose filled with tobacco, blackcurrant and violets. Supple and juicy, clean and precise, not so layered, more linear and straight, with a soft graphite and stony grip that lingers on the tongue. Plenty of firmness and good structure.
Château Malartic-Lagravière, Comte de Malartic
Pessac-Léognan
2023
91
Red berries on the nose, juicy and bright, clean and clear, I like this, balanced and easy to enjoy. Lively and focussed with a touch of fleshiness and really lovely strawberry and cranberry freshness. Great to crack open and enjoy its youth. Very good second wine. Really very enjoyable. 3.54pH. Yields of 39hl/ha for the reds.
Château Marjosse
Bordeaux
2023
91
With soft expressions of plum, blackberry and cassis, this wine constitutes a bargain for the quality, showing off ripe fruit and light bodied pleasure. While it lacks the dynamism and depth of a superior vintage, Pierre Lurton seems to have struck the right balance, extracting tannins only so much as to ensure a polite and easy-drinking red for shorter-term enjoyment.
Château Monregard la Croix
Pomerol
2023
91
I like the floral and plum aromas and flavours to this wine, crafted from 45-year-old Merlots. The attack is rather restrained and delicate, reflecting both red and dark fruit, but a somewhat hard edge to the tannins makes itself felt through to a medium finish, making me wonder if the summer heat wave may have been a bit too much for the sandy soils here, which lack the cold clays of the adjacent Clos du Clocher. Let’s see how the wine performs once bottled, after ageing in 30% new oak.
Château Montlisse
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
91
Smoky and spicy, this high-toned wine shows some mouth puckering tannin, but also clean fruit freshness: cool blue and just ripe plum. Limestone freshness on the finish reassures. Let's see how it develops after barrel ageing.
Château Moulin de La Rose
St-Julien
2023
91
Ageing in 30% new oak, this wine exudes rose stem and red berry fruit, smooth tannin and an opulence that makes me think of the words 'high yummy factor'. Although it lacks the precision of a higher scoring wine, it has ripe fruit and comes across a bit lush and warm. Take note that the alcohol is actually 14.5% and not 15%.
Château Moutte Blanc
Margaux
2023
91
For a wine that is 100% Merlot, I do not get as much dark fruit as expected but rather fresh red, fresh meadow aromatics presaging a palate that displays both salinity and (again) ripe fruit and smooth tannin with pleasing lift on the medium finish. A fine Margaux indeed! Ageing in 60% new oak should broaden the palate further for a potentially higher score. Healthy yields at 45 hectolitres per hectare.
Château Olivier
Pessac-Léognan (Cru Classé de Graves)
2023
91
With blackcurrant, plum and lead pencil aromas setting the tone, the medium-bodied palate exudes bright and crunchy red fruit, but not without some austere tannin, which barrel ageing hopefully will soften, hence a conservative score. Yet again, an example where the red is not quite up to the level of the white in Pessac-Léognan in 2023.
Château Paveil de Luze
Margaux (Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel)
2023
91
Bright fruit, Cabernet-driven graphite and crushed tobacco denote the aromatics of this wine, with lovely salinity and tannins smoother than many of its Cru Bourgeois peers. While it lacks the power and depth of top non-classified wines from the northern Médoc, I like how this wine leaves you with a sense of charm. Ageing in 30% new oak should broaden the palate. Tasted twice, similar results.
Château Peyrabon
Haut-Médoc (Cru Bourgeois Supérieur)
2023
91
Perfumed and scented on the nose. Ripe and high toned, almost tart, but becomes really quit juicy and clean - cherry and cranberry, with lots of mineral graphite and wet stone on the palate. A little tight and narrow but there’s clear concentration and underlying power. Unfussy, smooth and succulent. I like this - a good option for easy drinking with freshness and nuance. Not lacking in anything, easy drinking and nice construction. A stand out.
Château Pomeys
Moulis-en-Médoc
2023
91
With pepper and spice and plum aromas, this wine, ageing in one-third new oak, shows grip and freshness with a ripe enough tannic profile. I get a sense of clean Merlot along with spicy aspects from the Petit Verdot. Fine tonicity on the finish.
Château Potensac
Médoc
2023
91
Dark aromatics, violet, blackcurrant. Clean and clear, crystalline and pure, doesn’t have so much flesh, relatively lean, but actually is more crisp than harsh. Good structure, needs to fill out a little and is missing some sweetness, but then the menthol and herbal accents are lovely. Chalky and powdery tannins fill the mouth. Nice length and lift on the finish. 3.62pH.
Château Puygueraud
Francs Côtes de Bordeaux
2023
91
Lovely scents on the nose, deep and rich black fruit aromatics. Smooth and supple, this has a nice chew and sense of density to the ripe blackcurrant and damson fruit. Fills the mouth with a soft sweetness too, signs of more of a solar vintage, before the minerality and salty, mint comes through, adding cool touches of crisp red fruit and blueberries. A nice combination of power, ripeness and mouthwatering acidity, with a touch of austerity and spice on the finish but also lovely precision. 3.5pH. 23hl/ha yield.
Château Quintus, Dragon de Quintus
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
91
Fragrant blackcurrant and bramble fruit, liquorice and cool mint, lively and clean nose. Quite expressive. Smooth and sharp, quite tangy, filled with bright strawberry juice and lots of chalky tannins give a wide, mouth-filling expression. It’s nicely balanced and tannins are well integrated. A touch of heat and spice on the finish. A touch austere with lots of liquorice and dark fruit but there’s good acidity too. Fruit is certainly ripe, crushed blackcurrants, plums and hints of strawberry. Good stuff with freshness on the long finish. Not layered, all in one line, but well defined. 12 months ageing, 25% new oak. 3.63pH.
Château Ramafort
Médoc (Cru Bourgeois)
2023
91
Crafted from a relatively short harvest from 20-28 September, I like the bright fruit aromatics and especially the palate depth, juiciness and - above all - the sense of ripe fruit here, with juicy plum, blackberry and cassis. The abundance of cool limestone from this rather large 36ha estate in the far northern Médoc seems to have worked well with the Merlots. Ageing in 50% new oak, there is as well a fine integration of the oak.
Château St-Georges Côte Pavie
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
91
With pleasing aromas of blackberry and plum, the palate comes across more polite than expressive. I get a sense of an estate playing it safe with tannin extraction in a wine that is fine, but lacking the depth and length of some of its Grand Cru Classé peers in this vintage. Surely the barrel ageing - in 30% new oak - will broaden the palate, so for now a conservative score, as the wine does give off pleasing wet stone on the finish. It should be also noted that this estate in the past few years has shown improvement in quality after having been consistently mediocre earlier this century.
Château Valandraud, Virginie de Valandraud
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
91
Enjoyable ripe fruit mulberry aromas and flavours introduce a palate marked by crunchy red fruit and torrefaction, although a bit drying on the finish, making me wonder about the 100% new oak quotient. Harvested from 13 September to 4 October.
Clos de l'Oratoire
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
91
Quick harvest between 21-25 September leads to an agreeable wine with ripe plum, liquorice and cinnamon. The palate shows excellent depth, but the tannins are a touch hard. Let's see how the wine performs once bottled after ageing in 30% new oak.
Enclos de Viaud
Lalande-de-Pomerol
2023
91
Bright, supple plum with meadow freshness leap from the glass. The palate shows juicy succulence. Cooler clay soils helped to ensure mid palate sap and rather smooth tannin in this tricky vintage. While not as optimally ripe as other wines from the Vignobles K stable, this excellent Lalande de Pomerol works for shorter term drinking pleasure, now ageing in 10% new oak, and made from grapes picked between 15-26 September.
Château Beaumont
Haut-Médoc (Cru Bourgeois Supérieur)
2023
90
Friendly and clean, the palate shows some high-toned tannin accentuated by the acidity of the vintage, but the overall sense comes across in a mid palate with friendly plum and brambly red fruit character. A solid Cru Bourgeois.
Château Beauregard, Benjamin de Beauregard
Pomerol
2023
90
Cherry and chocolate scents on the nose. Sharp and high toned, lean and straight with clean fruit and a direct movement from start to finish. A little quiet right now but delicate and approachable.
Château Beauvillage
Médoc (Cru Bourgeois)
2023
90
Lifted and bright, a nice shininess to this wine, smooth and light but well defined and all in harmony. Really delightful to taste and should be an approachable wine when in bottle. I like the really clean raspberry, red cherry and cranberry fruit with high acidity and a mineral bite on the finish. A good example.
Château Bellerive
Médoc (Cru Bourgeois)
2023
90
Dominated by Merlots that taste both clean and ripe, the damson and cassis fruit aromas introduce a palate with juiciness and richness that are nothing short of appealing. Aging in about 30% new oak, the palate will improve in breadth once the wine reaches the shelves.
Château Bernadotte
Haut-Médoc
2023
90
A most charmingly floral aroma including tobacco and red berry fruit introduces a cheerful palate, although the tannins tighten up noticeably to the finish line. I like the mid palate sap enough to predict that barrel ageing will have the necessary softening effect, but a cautious score for now.
Château Beychevelle, Amiral de Beychevelle
St-Julien
2023
90
Rich, fully expressive on the nose with bramble fruit, some toasty notes, quite ripe fruit and perfumed tones. Good acidity to fruit ratio - crisp and juicy red berry fruit with relatively lean and tight but fine tannins which give the frame - nice direction from start to finish. Linear and well defined. Not so deep, but there’s power and a long length. Solid performance. It’s on the lean side, but I like the styling. Ageing 12 months, one third new oak, one third one year barrels, one third two year barrels. 10-12% press wine.
Château Cambon la Pelouse
Haut-Médoc (Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel)
2023
90
Endearing aromas of sweet herb, ripe plum and cassis introduce a juicy palate with fine tannin leading to a long, satisfying finish.
Château Chauvin
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
90
With cherry, liquorice, plum and candied red fruit this medium-bodied wine attacks briskly and exhibits lots of verve with grippy and somewhat firm tannins. Like other wines in this vintage, I sense a wanting mid palate that you would get from more clay and limestone rich soils. Indeed, it may well be that the low water retention capacity and efficiently draining clay-sandy soils of the estate's terroir were not ideally suited for the heat wave of the later summer. In any case, the finish is marked by bright red fruit - and barrel ageing should fill in the blanks and this will be a solid wine to enjoy rather early as you wait for superior vintages to come together in you cellar.
Château Clément-Pichon
Haut-Médoc (Cru Bourgeois Supérieur)
2023
90
Strong aromatics, really quite perfumed and vibrant, full of dark plums and black cherries with liquorice, crayon and dark chocolate. Juicy and lively, a great mouthwatering mid palate, clean and unfussy with lots of blueberry juiciness and wet stone texture to the tannins that lingers at the end. Some bitter chocolate and clove on the finish giving nuance. Has structure and a firm coating. 3.75pH.
Château Clos de Sarpe
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
90
Plenty of ripe plums and blackberry, with high-toned red fruit - and prominent oak toast aromas. The palate is tangy and smooth enough, with acidity accentuating more a red fruit character, but with some astringent, oak-derived tannins: the wine is ageing in 70% new oak, and I feel this on the finish and wonder how it will taste one bottled. Good if you like a more oak-driven style.
Château Cos d'Estournel, G d'Estournel
Médoc
2023
90
Smells cool and blue fruited, quite ripe also though, extremely fragrant with quite a lot of oak accents on the nose. Quite tart, high acidity on the palate, bright red fruits underpinned by a clear minerality that leaves a graphite and liquorice element on the tongue. A little lean, quite straight and a touch strict with acidity that sticks out. I like the cleanness and the sense of coolness and the elongated finish. 3% Petit Verdot completes the blend. Ageing 20% new oak. In organic conversion.
Château Cos Labory
St-Estèphe (5ème Cru Classé)
2023
90
Smells floral and perfumed. Juicy and supple, this has a nice balance between really lively, bright red fruits and tannins that are fleshy and filling. It’s bouncy and inviting, really easy to enjoy, lots of structure on show, not so serious. Ends a little salty with powdery graphite. Doesn't scream old school St-Estephe. A little more open and approachable. Ripe, chewy, almost sweet and sour with the ripe red fruit and cool blue fruit.. A nice change of style for this wine. Cos d'Estournel purchased this neighbouring property in March 2023 with north and west vineyards compared to d'Estournel's south and east facing vines. First time the team have used a vertical press and included press wine in the blend at 12%. 4% Petit Verdot completes the blend.
Château d'Agassac
Haut-Médoc (Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel)
2023
90
Crafted from grapes picked between September 13 and October 5, this wine showcases iodine freshness with cool cassis, aptly reflecting what one expects from the Médoc. The added plus is an almost creamy palate, even if the nose lacks the intensity for a higher score. Barrel ageing will broaden the already fine palate marked by subtle depth and a medium finish.
Château d'Arcins
Haut-Médoc (Cru Bourgeois)
2023
90
Brightly toned red fruit aromatics presage a juicy and rather smooth palate even if tight tannins pinch the finish a bit, but I think that the barrel ageing will smoothen the edges and the wine will be a success from bottle. 30% new oak.
Château de Malleret
Haut-Médoc
2023
90
An example of how more highly classified estates in 2023 - this being one of only eight Haut-Médoc Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnels from the 2020 classification - can excel in this vintage, with ripe fruit and a juicy mid-palate showing off fine impressive tannic structure. Picked over a month long period, the estate brought in ripe fruit to be sure. Although the pleasing tonicity on the finish borders on austerity, the barrel ageing in one-third new oak should resolve matters.
Château Deyrem Valentin
Margaux (Cru Bourgeois Supérieur)
2023
90
With subtle floral and red fruit aromas, this wine starts out very nicely, and the bright attack enchants leading to a cool blue fruit mid palate, almost mentholated, although I notice the extraction of tannin on the finish, which is slightly drying. Conservative score for now.
Château Dillon
Haut-Médoc (Cru Bourgeois Supérieur)
2023
90
Pleasing almost jammy plum and blackberry from this Supérieur Cru Bourgeois: a juicy palate with ripe fruit and energy delivered with smooth tannins. A bit of white pepper marks a spicy note for the finish, and the wine includes nearly 20% Petit Verdot, although this vintage fades in comparison to the 2016 served for lunch that same day - just to put 2023 into perspective.
Château du Glana
St-Julien
2023
90
Fresh red berry fruit, cedar, plum and liquorice introduce a rather smooth easy-going St-Julien with tannins that tighten up towards the finish.
Château du Moulin Rouge
Haut-Médoc
2023
90
Lovely nose of ripe blackberry plum and cassis leads to a juicy medium-bodied palate with cool blueberry fruit, albeit with some tannic austerity on the finish. But the raw materials are present and this should blossom after barrel ageing.
Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, Madame de Beaucaillou
St-Julien
2023
90
Fragrant on the nose, perfumed and floral, lots of dark purple flowers and fruit. Tangy and vibrant, really alive on the palate, good shot of acidity with chalky, powdery, graphite-edged tannins giving the structure and sense of straightness. A little compact and tight on the finish, the fruit just tapering, but lovely precision and detail all the way through. Feels quite charged with a firm backbone and long length. Ageing 12 months, 20% new oak. 3.6pH, 69 IPT. A yield of 55hl/ha.
Château Fleur La Mothe
Médoc (Cru Bourgeois Supérieur)
2023
90
Ripe and almost chewy blackcurrants and black cherries on the palate - a nice weight and texture while also being clean and clear, a gorgeous ease to this wine, juicy and vibrant, not so much density, it’s relatively straight and linear but there’s concentration and freshness all the way through. Very drinkable.
Château Fonréaud
Listrac-Médoc
2023
90
With aromas of red cherry and bright fruit, the palate comes across tangy but bordering on tart, lacking the finesse of some of the more successful Médoc wines. However, barrel aging should soften matters, as the wine has mid-palate substance.
Château Giscours, Haut-Médoc de Giscours
Haut-Médoc
2023
90
Fresh aromatics, really perfumed - like chocolate covered cherries. Scented and welcoming. Bright and tangy, really lively and lifted with a chalky, almost creamy aspect to the tannins. This is smooth and calm. Controlled with definition, a nice weight - hint of density - and sense of firm structure. Relaxed. Enjoyable with freshness and a wet stone salinity alongside a touch of cedar spice on the finish. Good drinkability. 3.66ph. Harvest September 5 to October 6.
Château Haut Barrail
Médoc (Cru Bourgeois)
2023
90
Ripe fruit aromas presage an almost fruit juice like palate, with solid tannic structure: one of the top AOC Médoc Cru Bourgeois tasted, with tonicity on the finish. One could think that the rather high alcohol would be heavy, but it is nicely balanced by the acidity of the vintage.
Château Haut-Brisson
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
90
After frost in 2021 and 2022, this estate came back in form this year, albeit with some Merlots from a lower section of the vineyard stricken by especially rapacious mildew. After careful sorting, the end result is a wine that exudes pleasing aromas of fresh red fruit and plum and palate tonicity with a medium finish. There are some austere tannins, however, which the barrel ageing should soften.
Château Haut-Madrac
Haut-Médoc (Cru Bourgeois)
2023
90
Punchy aromatics, really alive with violets and blackcurrants on the nose. Supple and juicy, clean and easy to enjoy. A touch of oak gives some nuance, which will settle in a year. Easy drinking wine with structure and length. This has impact, great to enjoy with purity. Sightly grippy but with enough fruit and acidity and structure to be very enjoyable. Not trying too hard and all the better for it.
Château La Grave
Pomerol
2023
90
Great aromatics, blackcurrant and lots of purple floral scents. Really perfumed. Juicy and plush, succulent although it loses some thrust, but a good start and nice sweet and juicy fruit. Ripe, a little straight, some dark chocolate, bramble and herbal elements. Just a bit dry on the finish, lacks some tension, charm and buzz. A little heavy but then it is structured with lots of tannins that should settle.
Château La Gurgue
Margaux
2023
90
Highly perfumed nose. Supple and juicy, quite tart and sour. Nice chalky finish, streamlined and focused, and there’s depth after the acidity subsides with ripe fruit, just fleshy tannins and a bright, lifted ending. A little lean but juicy and upfront. Will be good for sooner drinking. The Petit Verdot adds some colour, vibrancy, and a touch of spice to the finish. 3.6pH. 25hl/ha yield.
Château La Tour de Mons
Margaux
2023
90
Fragrant and lively on the nose. Quite a cool, blue toned graphite edge to the aromatics. Juicy and sleek, a lovely bright, streamlined wine, chalky and grippy, much more right bank in style with the Merlot on clay and limestone. Clean and clear, nice precision and clarity, still with cranberry and freshly picked strawberry elements. I love the stony grip on the finish. Cool and calm, a little toasted at the end, but nice energy and focus. 4% Cabernet Franc completes the blend.
Château Lagrange, Fiefs de Lagrange
St-Julien
2023
90
Vivid bright pink colour to the rim. Strongly perfumed with ripe jammy, plummy fruit, lots of red cherry, violet and blackcurrant but with strong herbal and menthol Cabernet markers on the nose too. Sleek and straight, lively though, this has a buzzy tone to the juicy fruit, tangy, and almost sour but stays the right side. Really well controlled, fresh and lifted but not overly so, lovely length and weight. Generous and easy to enjoy. A touch of plumpness too, no doubt because of the Merlot, with the Petit Verdot adding colour and a flash of exoticism to the blend. 3.46pH. Ageing 20% new oak.
Château Lamothe Bergeron
Haut-Médoc (Cru Bourgeois Supérieur)
2023
90
Located in a gorgeous château between Margaux and St-Julien, this wine emits aromas of bilberry, red cherry and tart fruit along with some cassis, reflecting Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. I like a certain suave balance with mid-palate juiciness, medium body and a finish that echoes ripe fruit.
Château Larose Perganson
Haut-Médoc (Cru Bourgeois Supérieur)
2023
90
A superior wine to sister estate Larose-Trintaudon, this wine shows more 'serious' aromatics of dark fruit and liquorice, by which one senses more the success of the Cabernets in 2023, even if somewhat raw, thoroughly requiring barrel ageing to soften matters.
Château Les Anguilleys
Médoc (Cru Bourgeois)
2023
90
Coming from far north in the Médoc with cooler soils that worked well for the Merlots and the summer heat wave, this wine conveys brambly fruit charm, the supple palate has lovely approachability. The estate reported that they only picked the best grapes and it tastes that way. In addition, there is mid palate concentration and good structure for ageing. Medium finish.
Château Lousteauneuf
Médoc (Cru Bourgeois Supérieur)
2023
90
Now I am a fan of cool Cabernets and this one contains them in spades, Cabernet Sauvignon. In the context of the vintage, this Cru Bourgeois Supérieur category show classiness with cassis, cool blueberry and crushed tobacco aromatics, and the palate follows through with juiciness and poise rather than austerity. Medium finish. Barrel ageing will broaden the palate.
Château Monbousquet
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
90
Dark ripe fruit, raspberry, strawberry and cherry with lots of floral elements too. Smooth and so soft on the palate with a chalky undertone giving some length and body. Chewy and ripe summer berry fruits, but with a soft sweet juiciness on the mid palate too before the tightness comes in with some clear clove and wood spice as well as lots of graphite and liquorice freshness. Overall finessed and pristine. A nice expression that will be good to drink in three-five years. Ageing 18 months, 50% new oak, 50% one year.
Château Moulin du Cadet
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
90
A sweet nose, infused with oak-derived spice, the palate shows ripe red berry fruit and damson, but the tannins are somewhat drying, and oak-derived toast and vanilla dominate. Ageing in 70% new oak.
Château Phélan Ségur, Frank de Phélan
St-Estèphe
2023
90
Highly aromatic, so floral with dark bramble and blackcurrant fruit with elements of graphite, dark chocolate and liquorice. Smooth and bright, a lovely sense of restraint while being super lively and highly acidic with powdery, mineral tannins. Feels cool and calm, nothing sticks out, maybe not so demonstrative or expressive right now, but there’s a sense of harmony due to the integration of the tannins. Pure and precise, really well defined. Lovely.
Château Poujeaux
Moulis-en-Médoc
2023
90
Quite austere and lean, focussed but refreshing with high acidity and quite chalky, powdery tannins but a straight overall expression. Fruit is clean and pure - raspberry, blackcurrant and black cherry. Doesn't really deviate from the core. It's a soft, gentle expression with present but not imposing tannins that give the structure and creates the textured mouthfeel all the way through. Some liquorice and dark chocolate on the finish. Lovely classicism on offer with plenty of Cabernet character. Ageing one third new oak, the rest one and two year barrels.
Château Simard
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
90
With red fruit aromatics presaging crunchy red fruit and a bit of creaminess on the mid palate, this wine is overall rather smooth, but ends with some edgy tannin. From a complicated yield because of the mildew (about 30% of the crop was lost), a solid performance. At one point it was raining constantly for eight hours, so the effect of the treatment only lasted so long. Ageing in barrel should soften this wine enough to ensure that 90-point score.
Château Sociando-Mallet, La Demoiselle de Sociando-Mallet
Haut-Médoc
2023
90
Dark fragrance on the nose. Quite high toned fruit, really focussed on the mouth-watering red berry fruit, searing almost, with lots of chalky, wet stones and liquorice giving a mineral menthol and slightly spiced undertone. But this carries power and focus, not heavy or fleshy, but nicely constructed with good drive and focus. Not the most complex, but well delivered. Will be easy to drink with a touch of sweetness adding an extra nuance. 3.50pH, Ageing 12 months, 20% new oak.
Château Tour Baladoz
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
90
While there is ripe fruit and (especially) pleasing salinity - the wine is crafted from a single block of vines at an altitude of 100m in St-Laurent des Combes, including much of that plateau and slopes - the tannins come across a bit tight and austere, and I sense a bit of drying oak tannin (the wine is aging in 70% new oak). Let’s see how it does after the barrel ageing, because there is that lovely saline aspect that I hope will win out. This estate was promoted to Grand Cru Classé in the 2022 ranking.
Château Valandraud, 3 by Valandraud
St-Émilion (Grand Cru)
2023
90
Spice and red fruit aromas and flavours mingling with consequential oak flavours. Grapes declassified from the Virginie de Valandraud were used to make this pleasant wine.
Clarendelle
Bordeaux
2023
90
Fruity and straight, nice sleekness. Ripe and fresh, a good lick of spice and mint gives this some strictness but actually it’s well balanced. Plump but also tense giving a push-pull of flavour and body. Very accessible, I can see this being a go-to with mouthwatering acidity cranberry and strawberry fruit and lots of liquorice. Vibrant. I love the juiciness - lively and bright, sleek and just fun. Well made.
Clarendelle
Pessac-Léognan
2023
90
Dark fruits, nice deep black fruit tones on the nose. Smells ripe but lively, bright and straight. Plums and cherries but with a real zing of acidity, mouthwatering, but in balance. Calm, gentle, soft, really approachable, not too tense at all. Serious, and just excellent harmony here. Will be a great buy.
Clos Badon Thunevin
St-Émilion (Grand Cru Classé)
2023
90
I like the high-toned raspberry and cool blueberry aromas and flavours that lead to a somewhat firm mid palate that will requires barrel ageing to soften, as the tannins show some austerity and drying on the finish.
Clos Lunelles
Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
2023
90
Gorgeous aromatics, fragrant and expressive. Almost chewy on the palate, present but velvety soft tannins, lovely ripe blackcurrant and red cherry fruit but with crisp fruit and a clean vein of minerality and salinity through the middle. Fresh and characterful with some body and bite. Nice purity to the expression. Approachable and fun. A little lean and spicy towards the finish. Ageing 50% new oak, 50% one year barrels.
Clos Marsalette
Pessac-Léognan
2023
90
Admirable bright plum and red berry fruit aromas and flavours, with grip and tension, although I wonder about the tart aspects to the tannins (harvest between 12-22 September) that dominate the profile at this (baby) stage. A conservative score, as we await the 14 months ageing process, in 25% new oak.
Domaine de Chevalier, Esprit de Chevalier
Pessac-Léognan
2023
90
An excellent second wine with verve and red fruit ripeness. The tannins a bit tight and the length not as impressive as the grand vin, but this should be a good short term red before you crack open the first wine.
