Bordeaux 2023 release prices and score table

Bordeaux 2023 En Primeur: Release prices and scores

This year's Bordeaux en primeur campaign is well underway with more than 70 estates releasing their prices for the 2023 wines. See all the Bordeaux 2023 en primeur releases here with scores and tasting notes by Georgie Hindle and Panos Kakaviatos.

The table below shows all the estates that have released prices for their 2023 wines so far. They are presented in descending order of the ex-négociant release price in Euros per single bottle with the percentage decrease from the single bottle 2022 price. The table also shows the release price of a case of 12 x 75cl bottles in GBP. The tasting note and score for each wine is also available via a drop down button. Prices were provided by Liv-ex which records transactions between its merchant members in the UK, US, Asia and Europe.

Please rotate your device to view the table in full.

Producer & Appellation	Score	€ Single	Single % diff (2022)	£ Case of 12
Château Lafleur, Pomerol	97	610	0%	7320	Dark ripe fruits and some savoury touches of tobacco, dark chocolate and clove with wet stones. Violets and irises come in after a few minutes. Nice depth and weight straight away, this has concentration but nothing overdone. Lots of freshness and zing, it’s finessed for sure and it’s impactful in terms of brightness and flavour, but it doesn’t have so much outward fleshy charm that it can have. It’s linear and straight with a slow expansion of elements that comes after a few minutes. Well crafted and long, this stays with you. Beautifully crafted for the vintage, not the most demonstrate which is quite usually for Lafleur. But this has class and is a really ‘classic’ example. High acidity, bite and tang. It’s missing that star power right now but there’s no doubt the sculpting and bite. Crushed herb and salty finish. Some earth and wet stones too.
Château Ausone, St-Émilion (Grand Cru)	96	432	-23%	5280	Really ripe and fragrant black fruit, but fresh too, an element of graphite and liquorice and lots of florality. Really expressive and open. Clean, clear and juicy with a clean, direct, mineral backbone that sustains to a long finish. Missing some star power and a bit more heft, but it’s well defined, finessed and pure. Somewhat subdued, not over trying, very elegant with lovely wet stone elements around the sides and lots of menthol, liquorice, clove and blueberry freshness. Already approachable - this will be delicate and easy to drink. A little tense still but it has a long length. 3.63pH. 39hl/ha yield. Vineyard is organic certified.
Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac (1er Cru Classé)	98	396	-0.317	4920	A clear contender for wine of the vintage. Deep, purple colour on the rim. Some soft herbal and floral aromatics, milk chocolate. A real sense of understated power as Lafite does so well. Not so demonstrative at all, but there’s a gorgeous charming delicacy to this - fine powdery blue fruit tannins with edges of liquorice and slate. Smooth and supple, excellent weight in the mouth, light and streamlined, less overt acidity and brightness than Carruades, but still with a mouthwatering centre that gives strawberry and cherry fruit flavours. Ends with subtle graphite and wet stone, long and lingering though. Just delightful, so elegant and finessed. You can feel the density on the finish, the slight weight of the tannins comes at the end, bringing a controlled and quiet power. I love the sense of ease and seamlessness about this wine, it just slips down. 1% of very old Petit Verdot went into the blend this year. 15% press. 3.8pH. 38% grand vin production. Ageing 90% new oak. A potential 100-point wine.
Château Cheval Blanc, St-Émilion (Grand Cru)	97	384	-18.3%	4680	Fresh and floral on the nose, cool and crisp aromas. Purple flowers, red and purple berries, crayon, graphite, liquorice. Gorgeous texture on the palate, this has grip and bite, tannins are present and quite imposing, really coating the mouth with a powdery, chalkiness. It has some layers of tannin and ripe fruit but with freshness and lift all the way through. It’s not immediately charming and generous, it’s more controlled, but not strict. Fresh, clean, precise, lacks a little more density towards the finish, just tapering but there’s nice style and finesse and this does pack more power than some. Raspberries, chalky cherries, bright blueberries with wet stones, lots of liquorice and slate. Balanced, contains both warm and cool vintage markers, lots of complexity on offer. It’s missing that gorgeous charm that Cheval does so well, the enrobingness but it’s nicely constructed and at least has some personality. The largest ever vintage in the Cheval cellars with a yield of 40hl/ha. 3.82pH.
Château Margaux, Margaux (1er Cru Classé)	98	360	-30.2%	4,320	Quite a herbal nose, full of blackcurrant leaf and bramble fruit, dark chocolate, violets, subtle, not shouting, but interesting. Round and ripe, a nice weight in the mouth, silky, but also like crushed velvet, mouthwatering acidity, so juicy and clean, a lovely texture in the mouth. Not chewy at all, but there’s depth here, a cushioning to the palate. So charming, so gentle, so lively. It's is just so appealing but this will benefit from oak ageing too. Aerial lifted, so intensely juicy. Really carefully made, tannins are wonderful, acidity doesn’t stick out. Brings a smile to your face. You don’t see the heat, bit the fruit is ripe, bt this carries freshness all the way through. Lovely lift on the finish. Completely different in style again to Lafitte and Mouton. But I love. 2% Petit Verdot completes the blend with 4% Cabernet Franc, the highest percentage ever in the blend. 41% grand vin production. 3.6pH, 15% press. Officially certified organic as of 2023. Ageing 100% new oak, 18 months.
Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac (1er Cru Classé)	98	324	-37.2%	4068	Gorgeous red and black fruit on the nose, ripe strawberries, cherries and blackcurrants, really fruit forward and expressive, not so much on the mineral or floral side. Smooth and supple, this is agile and has great movement. A sense of life, depth and richness, but this is so suave. The fruit and tannins fill the mouth but with wonderful coolness - blueberry and crisp cherry. Lots of liquorice and wet stones also come through; graphite, chalk, mint, a touch of toastiness on the finish. It has flashes of exoticism, as well as finesse. Structure and seriousness but with bounce, full of texture and nuance. Tannins have built a broad wine and this is a real success with lots of energy and vibrancy throughout but with no harsh acidity or too lean tannins. Stylish, characterful and executed very well. 11% press wine, last year was 17%. 93% Cabernet in the blend, second highest in history after 2010 which was 94%. 75 IPT. 40% grand vin production. A potential 100-point wine.
Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan (1er Cru Classé)	98	312	-39.5%	3780	A stand out wine from Haut-Brion this year and one of the most charming Primeur samples from the estate. A little sombre on the nose, quiet with dark fruit, blackcurrant and brambles. Not so open on the nose, but this wows on the palate - rich, dense for the vintage, weighty in the mouth, clearly ripe and so filling. Chewy and alive, this is brilliant with a buzz of acidity, a sharp, sour, tartness but all so excellently delivered. So charming and so cuddly, this wine wants you to adore it. Bright and voluptuous, and not many can say that in this vintage. Really so great and still with chocolate, mint, pepper, raspberries, and floral notes all the way through. A complete knock out because it has flesh, juice, brightness and style. 3.7ph 4.3 acidity 80 IPT - second highest year after 2010 for the concentration. 42% grand vin production. A potential 100-point wine.
Château Angélus, St-Émilion (Grand Cru)	97	260	-25%	3120	Gorgeous nose, floral and scented, roses and violets, gorgeous strawberries and raspberries, really expressive, some herbal elements. Full and filling, but soft and smooth, almost crushed velvet, this has texture - it’s not so tense and straight but has a solid backbone of freshness and plush fruit but very cool. It’s more on the structure side than acidity, serious but still with crunchy blueberries, chalky blackcurrant, lots of graphite and minerality on the finish. Tannins are present, fill the mouth. Less fruit forward but layered with complexity - a subtle opulence. Fleshy tannins, ripe soft, delicate but present. Still got fruit and mouthwatering acidity, feels a touch sombre, but cool and blue. I do like it a lot. Refined. I feel like it’s missing some more plushness and just that Angelus hug on the mid palate, but you can’t fault the precision on show. It’s got body and length, tannins, crunch, freshness, and a vein of minerality underpinning the expression. It’s cool but the fruit and tannins are ripe and it manages the tightrope of being full but refined. Very good. 3.65pH. Harvest September 14 to October 1.
Château Palmer, Margaux (3ème Cru Classé)	98	240	18.6%	2880	Crazy aromatics, so so full and bright, full of intense scents of pink and purple flowers, damson fruit, clearly ripe no doubt, but no overt heat, some graphite and liquorice on the nose too with some dried herbal Cab notes. Rich, layered, voluptuous, one you could use the word opulent to describe, full of flavour and really fruit forward. Not as overtly juicy as some, more harmonious and balanced, the tannins are perfectly integrated to the fruit and the acidity with the added plushness that the Merlot gives to the blend. Less strictly structured as some with more Cab, but this has great energy. It’s serious and there’s power but there’s also a generosity and charm on show in terms of texture. But it’s focussed too, long length. Something very captivating about this. Lots of cool classicism on the finish with a salty, mineral, oyster shell undercurrent. 55% new oak for the first year in barrel then one year in 30hl foudre. 3.75pH. 13% press. 32hl/ha yield.
Château Pavie, St-Émilion (1er Grand Cru Classé A)	97	234	-20%	2784	Aromatic nose, clean and clear, lovely pristine black and red fruits, some dark chocolate with violets, graphite and liquorice. Gorgeous succulence, this is so clear and crystalline with some juicy strawberry and bitter orange. A touch of tension gives the backbone and structure - great direction and movement from start to finish. Poised and piercing - so direct - I love the finesse and refinement, everything feels so much more finessed. Layered and complex. Has more than Tripling. So much extra zing and sense of life and energy. Still compact, no doubt, but this will be delicious. Tannins are so fine, really well constructed. 3.66pH.
Château L'Eglise-Clinet, Pomerol	97	210	-19.2%	2508	Crafted from deep rooted vines in both clay with clayey gravel, this estate succeeds like no other in expressing power from this appellation but without any hard or drying tannins, which one can encounter in 2023 from other estates. Cool and confident menthol, bright tangy red berry and blueberry fruit aromas introduce an almost Pauillac like palate whose tannic grip is happily balanced by blood red orange like freshness. Aging in 82% new oak, this wine was made from grapes picked before the September rains: the tannins show no rawness, but rather pristine ripeness. I love the linear focus enveloped with subtle succulence, ending with a long finish. Give it the full opportunity to improve in your cellar, not before 2033, when it will reward your patience fully.
Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol	98	186	-32.6%	2,220	Beautiful purple colour in the glass, vibrant and alive. Great florality, raspberry, cherry, cranberry, lots of fresh red summer berries and lots of aromatics. Broad and expansive on the palate, a little tight and some grip to the tannins. Delicate yet powerful, lovely crushed herbs, mint, sappy and saline. Feels very VCC on the palate, grippy and young, clearly tight, with lots of spice and ripe black fruits. It’s statuesque, structured with no harshness. Delicious, delineated, lifted on the finish effortless and totally moreish. I love it, classicism in the very best way. You have that beautiful cabernet minty spice with clear grippy fruity merlot. Dark sticky liquorice, spice, but there’s something incredible about this wine. Juicy and lively too, this has it all, and I really think this will be a beauty. Excellent. 3.74pH (lower than usual). 4% press wine. Ageing two thirds new oak. 42hl/ha yield.
Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan (Cru Classé de Graves)	97	180	-31.8%	2220	Generously scented nose, very floral and perfumed, lovely high aromatics and fully expressive. Blue fruits, red cherries and some plum. Weighty and full, this really leaves a lasting impression on the palate, juicy but not too much, a tiny hint of sourness in the back gives the zing while the structure and the tannins do most of the taking really putting the structure at the fore with powdery, chalky tannins that linger. It’s serious, but no way austere. Weighty but still streamlined. Chocolate, cherry, blackcurrant, feels very calm and confident. Polished and sophisticated, it’s not trying too hard and feels settled in the glass. Slightly chewy, juicy, delicious!! You can help but smile with this. Fruit juice, some minerality, some flesh, but still that clear and straight backbone. Wonderful. 3.8pH. 4.4 acidity. 80 IPT. 47% grand vin production.
Château L'Évangile, Pomerol	97	150	-30.5%	1896	Fragrant redcurrant and cranberry. Milk chocolate, vanilla, creamy and fruit and fresh, cherries and plum. Cool and crisp, so much freshness straight away and so sleek, the weight is there in the density of the ripe fruit but keeps a very slick frame. Lovely movement and energy, softly vibrant but also quit rich - a spectrum of cranberry and blackcurrant and plum fruit gives lots of different expressions with liquorice and tobacco on the finish. Chalky and stony, a lovely mineral grip on the finish. Feels sophisticated, has a great balance and sense of sophistication. All in balance, nothing sticks out, suave and elegant. I love it’s gentle expression though, doesn’t shout bit this will be so great to drink and enjoy. I love it. Ends cool blue fruits, chalk and wet stone. Some milk chocolate too. Balanced on a tightrope, delicately, on the side of tenderness and tension, really great. But it has density and a touch of sweetness. Has more finesse than some other Pomerols. 3.8pH. Ageing 8% amphora, 50% new oak, 15% foudre, the rest used barrels. 42hl/ha yield. Green harvests were performed to drop 15-20% of the potential yield, given the team 'had never seen so many grapes on the vines'.
Château Lafite Rothschild, Carruades des Lafite, Pauillac	94	145	-19%	1860	Quite a strong and intense nose, dark fruits, bramble, liquorice and dark chocolate. Some hints of perfume at the back. Lovely firmness and sense of youth, bright and buzzy, so much energy and liveliness. High acidity, piercing and direct gives this a sharpness but with bounce too, so it’s not too straight or too hard. The opposite of serious. Almost tart but then expands and with the powdery tannins giving weight towards the finish ending on a slightly herbal, spiced note. Vibrant with punchy red fruits; cranberry and strawberry. Energy but controlled and directed with good persistence, all in balance and harmonious. A great second wine. 12% press. 3.7pH. No Petit Verdot in the blend this year.
Château Léoville-Las Cases, St-Julien (2ème Cru Classé)	98	138.5	-0.4	1662	Bright, gorgeous, expressive aromatics of dark purple and black fruit. A sense of opulence and clear Cab effect on the nose. Supple and agile, juicy and succulent, a rich almost thick cherry juiciness here, fleshy, ripe and cool. Lovely minty, liquorice and graphite undertone that keeps the freshness going to a long finish. It’s a bit bolder than I expect for a LLC and also a bit bigger for the vintage. It’s a bold, characterful style, certainly not missing any body. It’s so charming, this is out to please, certainly not tough or too serious, this is more easy to approach. Lots of herbal elements, pencil lead, graphite and wet stone with cloves and cinnamon. Gorgeous sweet and fleshiness. It’s still compact no doubt, but there’s finesse here. Lifted, chalky on the finish. Well constructed, despite the power it ends clean and lifted. Not hollow. Up there with the best of the vintage. Depth and concentration is a notch up and tannins are great. With 4% Merlot, it’s the lowest percentage ever in the blend - 2022 was 5%. 43hl/ha yield. Harvest September 9 to October 2. 6.6% press. 3.79pH. Ageing 18 months, 50% new.
Château Mouton Rothschild, Petit Mouton, Pauillac	94	132	-23%	1644	Quite medicinal on the nose with a vibrant purple colour to the rim. Smells rich and ripe but cool and fresh too. Juicy and fun, this makes the mouth water and you want to smile straight away with hints of steely minerality, cool blueberries, crisp cranberries and sweet strawberries. Feels very calm, very accessible, stylish and confident. Harmonious and balanced and easy to enjoy with tannins that coat the mouth with silkiness yet still has amplitude on the palate. Great stuff, very delicious. 39% production. 2% Petit Verdot completes the blend.
Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, St-Julien (2ème Cru Classé)	97	120	-35%	1488	Lovely vibrant purple colour in the glass. Smells fragrant and lifted, a lovely combination of sweet and ripe and fresh blackcurrant and black cherries on the nose with a touch of dark chocolate. Smooth and so silky, but rich too, there’s depth and weight but not too much. I love the texture - grippy and filling no doubt, it coats the mouth but like crushed velvet, you feel the ripeness but there’s such lift and effortless purity of fruit that it feels fresh too. No extra fat, but equally it’s not too lean, not strict at all, where many are. Not hollow, not light, there’s no let up but equally there’s just persistence with hints of minerality, graphite and wet stone. Juicy cherry, blackcurrant and blueberry with lots of liquorice on the finish. Feels well crafted, some chalkiness on the finish along with a lift. Maybe not as moreish as some, but this is really well made. Feels elegant but stylish. I do like the fleshiness and the soft sweetness. 3.7pH. 89 IPT. Ageing 18 months, 100% new oak. 12% press.
Château Cheval Blanc, Petit Cheval, St-Émilion (Grand Cru)	93	120		1440	Very floral and highly perfumed on the nose. Supple and agile, this has weight and a super smooth texture - quite tart and high in acidity though with liquorice, aniseed, clove and some wet stone minerality that gives the fine tannins a real chalky grip around the mouth. It’s a little austere and youthful but it has structure and muscle and lots of ripe fruit as well as freshness. Not charming and welcoming but sleek, straight and focussed. Ageing 14-16 months in one year barrels. 3.8pH.
Château Margaux, Pavillon RougeMargaux	93	120	-20%	1,440	Subtle aromatics, dried flowers, pot pourri, rose, blackcurrant and raspberry. Deep purple colour to the rim, vibrant but intense, some graphite and herbal Cabernet notes on the nose too. Bright and sharp, quite linear and a touch austere at this point, lean and straight - well defined and focussed with lovely fruit intensity and purity. Not fleshy, but there's lots of energy and precision to this. Very classic and will round out nicely. 14% press wine. 60% new oak. 2% Cabernet Franc completes the blend. 68 IPT, 3.6pH, 30% second wine production.
Château Cos d'Estournel, St-Estèphe (2ème Cru Classé)	96	114	-38%	1440	Some herbal touches on the nose with dark chocolate, a little exotic with quite dark ripe blackcurrants. Expressive and alive in the glass, weighty and smooth, a great texture and structure to this, more fleshy and ripe than I was expecting with a mineral undercurrent. Lots going on here, less showy as the fruit subsides and leaves some grippy, powdery tannins that linger. Still serious and needs time to come together, a little quiet and intense on the finish. Not so much overt acidity, more power and structure at this point. First time green harvesting since 2008. 12% press wine, less than in 2022. Shorter maceration in 2023, 23 days compared to 28-30 at cooler temperatures. Ageing 50% new oak. In organic conversion. 53% grand vin, 47% second wine. 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend.
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac (2ème Cru Classé)	98	110	35.3%	1320	Smells divine, lovely lush blackcurrant and black cherry characters on the nose. Pencil led, graphite, liquorice, menthol elements. Very Pauillac on the nose. Gorgeous weight, supple and agile, great movement and energy to this. Almost buzzy, tangy, bright but not over the top, keeps its structure and retains the serious directness from start to finish. Generous licks of minerality, Finessed. Has cool classicism to it, maybe missing some depth on the mid palate. Sleek and refined for sure, but not so fleshy. Cool blue fruits. Not the longest. Winemaker Nicolas Glumineau wants it to be racy and it’s certainly racy. 50% grand vin production, 50% second. 3.67pH, 14.7% press wine only Cabernet. Ageing 19 months, 60-65% new oak and then one wine barrels.
Château Pichon Baron, Pauillac (2ème Cru Classé)	97	103	23.4%	1234	Perfumed nose, fragrant and so scented, a touch of blackcurrant leaf and plum, graphite and dark chocolate. Silky soft, bright and so delicately presented. Crunchy and crisp red fruits and ripe black fruits with some spiced undercurrents and wet stone touches. Much lighter in terms of fruit profile - summer berries, tangy and vibrant with super fine tannins giving the structure and support. This has finesse and power - less plushness and richness than last year of course - it’s more sleek and straight, firm and controlled but still has width and layers of flavour and texture. Refined, and definitely cool. ‘Classicism’ but no overt heat. Great tannins, this is bright, really makes you smile. A hint of strawberry sweetness and tannins that completely coat the mouth. I think this will be great in time, needs a decade. Maybe not so charming right now but there’s no faulting the finesse and refinement. I think they got this right. grand vin 44% production 12% press. 3.7pH.
Château Haut-Brion, Le Clarence de Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan	94	96	-0.272	1200	Brambly fruit, plummy and lively on the nose. Quite perfumed. Straight and sharp on the palate, this is brilliant in it’s direction and movement, lifted but with a certain weight and density to it, not plush, more grippy and slightly mineral than Chappelle which is more charming right now, but this has great sleek muscles. Stylish and streamlined but it does expand slowly and feels like it has underlying power. Nicely structured, fresh and clean, good level of balancing acidity and a polished finish. Nice stuff. 3.8ph 3.7 total acidity.
Château Smith Haut LafittePessac-Léognan (Cru Classé de Graves)	97	91.2	-20%	1,180	Dark and fragrant nose, scented and intense but not too rich and ripe more cool, dark but crisp and fresh too. Roses, floral elements, pot pourri, very welcoming. Big boned, this has expansion and intensity from the get go, powdery tannins fill the mouth with a juicy core and layers of freshness, mint, graphite, wet stones, herbs, cocoa and liquorice. Not as immediately as suave and soft and caressing as SHL can be, this is more serious, more straight and streamlined. Still finessed but this has muscle to it, forward and direct. It’s a beauty but will need time to expand and soften some more. Still very much on the Cabernet aromatics and power. I do like its density though, there is richness here, it’s not all straight and the tannins are filling. This has lovely potential with chewy strawberry and cranberry flavours. You don’t have the feeling of overt warmth with a cool freshness and touching on austere acidity, but shows freshness and tension as well as ripeness. 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend. 3.65pH. 26hl/ha yield, more or the less the same as usual winemaker Fabien Teitgen said.
Château Bélair-Monange, St-Émilion (1er Grand Cru Classé)	98	90		1180	Great aromatics, subtle not shouting, not too ripe, definitely more cool and fresh. Smooth and supple, a gorgeous weight and balance in the mouth. Crisp and fresh but creamy and fleshy too. Delicious, minty, racy, chiselled, lots of power but so well balanced, so charming and so sophisticated. Still lots of mint and tension on the finish but wow this is amazing. The tannins are perfection, the juicy strawberry, cherry core is amazing, the texture and tannins are perfect, weight and length is awesome. Great stuff and really focussed on the drinkability. You could drink this today but equally it will age. It just makes you smile and this is amazing. A little burnt orange, bitter grapefruit, mint, slate, graphite. It’s fun and friendly. Great. Controlled and stylish. Lots of oak but this will settle after ageing (14 months in 50% new oak). 3.82pH.
Château Haut-BaillyPessac-Léognan (Cru Classé de Graves)	96	90	-25%	1,080	Such pretty aromatics, gorgeous florally on the nose - roses and peonies, blackcurrant leaf, cranberries and cherries with some plum and black chocolate too. Soft and smooth, sumptuous like Haut-Bailly usually is. Juicy and plump for the vintage, it keeps its defined frame thanks to fine tannins with slightly sharp edges but it also has some softness with ripe fruit and lots of freshness. This is a real success, slightly hot on the finish and a little toasted but this has finesse and complexity with layered of flavour and texture. Stylish and confident. 3.75ph. 6% press wine. 55% grand vin production. Ageing 14-15 months, 50% new oak. 4% Petit Verdot completes the blend.
Château Valandraud, St-Émilion (1er Grand Cru Classé)	94	90	-23.7%	1104	The best barrel sample that I have tasted from this estate in a long time, as it reflects not only the dark ripe fruit one expects, but also an extra dimension of freshness, with blood red orange lift on the finish. Let's not get ahead of ourselves: the attack (with similar aromas) reflects beguiling blackberry liqueur and cassis creaminess, along with red liquorice and iodine freshness. I still get oak stave aspects from the 100% new oak (which begs some caution, given the 15% alcohol), but superb mid-palate depth combined with that fine finish augurs well for the future. Strong potential for a higher score after bottling.
Château Canon, St-Émilion (1er Grand Cru Classé)	98	90	-25%	1080	Deep florals, violets, black fruits, some purple fruits too with cocoa powder and cool fresh blueberries. Smooth and so refined, this has a comfort in the mouth that few others have - a certain weight that defies the vintage almost fleshy but more thick juice rather than lean, with a sweet core as well as biting minerality that provides a great contrast. This is a serious wine, it has structure and movement, great supple tannins, so fine with a touch of chalk, strawberry, cranberry and red cherry fruit with a touch of liquorice spice on the finish. Assured winemaking, ripe fruit, great acidity and body, ending clean and pure with wet stones and graphite touches. Just delicious, a wine that tastes great now and feels like it’ll always be that way. Expansive in the best way. Textured like thick silk. Amazing. Ageing 16-18 months in 50% new oak as well as foudre. 3.42pH.
Château Troplong MondotSt-Émilion (1er Grand Cru Classé)	97	90	-11.8%	1,068	The aromatics are incredible - so pure, so clean, so precise, sweet, sour, fresh. Clear blue fruits, wax, crayon, pencil led on the nose, bright and fresh. Vanilla, blackcurrant and plum with blueberry too. Supple and agile, lovely bounce and energy straight away, this has movement and direction. The fruit is pristine, gorgeous succulence and bright berries on the palate before some limestone wet stone elements come in and give the palate a graphite tang. Has that sense of whole bunch, really racy and so electric. It’s not a 2022, it doesn’t have that velvetines that Troplong can have, the soft plush tannins, but this is very good. Straight, great juiciness, clean, poised, elegant and refined. Not shouting, it’s reserved and calm, but confident. You can taste the chalk on the finish alongside liquorice and graphite. I love the finesse and the terroir markers and in change to 2021 it has ripeness and succulence and body. Keeps the tension and direction. An elegant expansion in the mouth. 6% press. Three tanks of whole cluster fermentation. 70 IPT. Ageing 14 months, 60% new oak. 3.45pH.
Château Calon SégurSt-Estèphe (3ème Cru Classé)	96	78	-23.5%	936	Sweet and fresh bramble berry notes on the nose. Some toast, liquorice, dark chocolate, tobacco, cedar and clove. Succulent and supple, this has a lovely energy and focus but with density and bite at the same time. Chalky, fleshy tannins fill the mouth but at the same time as a liquorice and slate flavour lingers on the cheeks. Both fruity and lean and straight at the same time. Not yet so harmonised, but there’s finesse and refinement to the expression and nothing feels out of place or too much. Has a juicy centre and a touch of sweet strawberries that lift the expression which is so pleasant. Ends clean and grippy. It’s very good and you can't fault the refinement, clarity and precision on show. More Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend than last year at 72%. 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend. 55% grand vin production. 3.7pH. 45hl/ha yield. Ageing 20 months, 100% new.
Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan	97	76.8	-28.9%	912	Extremely floral nose, peony, iris, rose, expressive and aromatic with black fruits too, liquorice, dark fruit, cedar, some black chocolate, coffee bitterness on the nose too. Smooth and supple, nicely weight in the mouth, forward, grippy and bright, has a soft chew, really quite polished and pristine. Seamlessly integrated with the acidity balancing the tannins and the ripe fruit with some mineral wet stone undercurrents and slight bitter liquorice and grapefruit skin on the finish. It’s a little serious (polished), missing some hints of sweetness and flesh for me. It’s brilliant, it does have a soft chew of strawberry and raspberry with stoney-edged tannins. You get that minerality through and for that it does have terroir signature and has that lick of Guillaume. Ripe, fresh, clean, fragrant, sleek, streamlined. Slightly grippy tannins, but sleek. Wet stone. It has a lovely style. Clean and so precise. Ends minty and powdery. Harvest 11-25 September, 60% whole bunch fermentation taking the alcohol down from 14.3% at picking to 13.5%. 3.62pH.
Château Lynch-Bages, Pauillac (5ème Cru Classé)	96	72	-33%	840	Weighty and ripe, but high toned and sharp, a real push pull of tannins, concentrated fruit and acidity. Feels very complete, not necessarily all in harmony right now, this is quite intense, but there’s a statuesque element which is impressive. Both rich and cool with liquorice, graphite, plum, cherry and cranberry. Layers of freshness and a real sense of classicism makes you want to go back for more. More lean and streamlined than 2022, this is focussed and there is bite and edge to the tannins that will settle, but this is very good. 65% grand vin, 25% second wine, 10% third wine. 6% press wine. 2% Petit Verdot completes the blend.
Clos Fourtet, St-Émilion (1er Grand Cru Classé)	95	70	-25.5%	840	Gorgeous fragrance, really ripe and expressive, so floral and perfumed too. Lovely pure aromatic expression. Ripe but juicy raspberry and black cherry fruit - cool and so refreshing. I love the gentle style, it’s smooth with tannins that give body but no weight. More vertical than wide, it’s layered and delicate. Finessed as you expect from Clos Fourtet. Lithe, supple, mouthwatering, a certain density is there and the length is great. Cool but chalky too. There’s power here in the fleshiness but it’s juicy with a touch of oak and enjoyable bitterness on the finish. Ageing 40% new oak, 60% one year used barrels. 3.5pH. 46hl/ha yield.
Château Quintus, St-Émilion (Grand Cru)	93	67	-30%	840	Really perfumed and expressive on the nose, lots of fragrance - dark purple flowers, blackcurrants, highly perfumed. Smells quite intense. Supple and agile, this has nice movement with plush tannins and chewy strawberry fruit with high acidity to balance the texture. Round and full in the mouth, fleshy but with a clean limestone, graphite undercurrent. Full bodied for the vintage, generous and super charming, the juicy and chunky Merlot giving width and depth to the body. Not streamlined as such as the texture and tannins are more present but there’s a nice vein of minerality that keeps the direction. Sweet, sour, tart and chalky. A bit firm, but there’s great structure. Generous and super charming. Easy to drink. 12 months ageing, 38% new. 25% grand vin production, this year with a little more Merlot where last year had more Cabernet Franc.
Château Angélus, Carillon d'Angélus, St-Émilion (Grand Cru)	93	66		792	Gorgeous purple colour in the glass. Just-ripe cherries, cranberries and plums. Smells fresh and lively with some liquorice hints. Smooth and so lively, really lifted and pure with both sweet and crisp cranberries giving a mixture of tension but also great movement. Bitter orange touches add a spiced angle but also more character. Lovely tannin integration, this is fun, but stylish, very clean and precise. Great drinkability on offer. 3.6pH. Ageing 16 months, 60% new oak.
Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac (5ème Cru Classé)	97	66	-0.27	790	The longest harvest ever at this estate, and it paid off magnificently: lovely red berry and mint freshness, the Cabernet Franc coming to the fore. On the palate, it shows freshness and gorgeous wet stone salinity that rises above many other Pauillac peers. The acidity is very well managed and felt in a tangy (rather than tart) fashion and the wine exhibits superlative ripe Cabernet Sauvignon with tannic finesse as well as structure for the long haul. Normally the estate needs three or four days to harvest the Merlots but extra care was a taken - picking over a 10 day period for the Merlots - to obtain only the very best for the blend, resulting in veritable juiciness, too.
Château Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux (2ème Cru Classé)	96	60	28.6%	720	Blue fruits, wax crayon on the nose, some soft floral notes, a little quiet aromatically. Intense and forward, this is bright and focussed, a little more velvety than Segla, this has a verticality but with a deep mid palate that really extends giving more of a feeling of controlled power. Certainly not shouting but this is very polished. Quite a serious take, more dark fruit, less lively crunchy red fruit, A great result with structure and volume. There's a balance between intensity and freshness but all delivered subtly and with class. More Margaux than some others in the vintage, soft tannins give a touch of voluptuousness. Touches of wet stone also linger on the finish. A lot to like here. Feels very Rauzan, very polished, a touch ‘less’ than 2022 of course, but this has great energy and a lot of drinkability. 3.61pH. 60% grand vin production.
Château Beychevelle, St-Julien (4ème Cru Classé)	94	60	-11%	720	Fragrant and floral note, fully expressive aromatically with strawberries and red cherries, you can definitely smell the Petit Verdot on the nose - intense. Clean and clear, a lovely weight in the mouth. Smooth but grippy too, tannins are svelte and super fine, this has nice ripe fruit, good body and mouthfeel and a long finish. Juicy, almost fleshy, this has some weight in the mouth. I like the depth, this has some chew, a soft hint of sweetness plus creamy chalkiness plus a lovely lift on the finish. Cool and crisp but well managed. Really excellent and very accessible, juicy and elegant. Highest ever proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. 6% press wine. Yields around 50hl/ha. 50% grand vin production. Ageing 18 months, 70% new oak. 1/3 aged in one year barrels.
Château Gruaud-Larose, St-Julien (2ème Cru Classé)	97	60	-13.8%	716	A complete knockout of a wine in 2023. Deep, vibrant purple in colour. Lots of milk chocolate, some exotic spices and black fruit touches on the nose, along with floral scents of roses and violets - smells gorgeous. Supple and filling, immediate weight and texture on the palate, thick silk and ripe fruit, massy but then almost straight away quite clean and crisp. Forward and focussed, tannins supportive but so well integrated into the wine - almost a seamless expression - with plenty of underlying power. It’s delicious. Very drinkable, finessed and restrained, nothing overdone here, no harshness. Everything feels in its place, harmonious. Cherry, blackcurrant and blueberry. Juicy, succulent, high acidity, mouthwatering. A great great wine. Fresh and lifted. I love it because it’s layered, you can feel the sculpting of this wine, It has muscles and feels very ‘put together’. Yes, there’s Cab, but this has a touch of plushness. Filled with a juicy, mouthwatering strawberry juice that you just cannot fail to smile at. Gorgeous mint as well. 40% grand production, taken from 60% of the estate. 15% press wine.
Château Palmer, Alter Ego, Margaux	93	58.2		708	Gorgeous nose, so full, voluptuous, intensely aromatic, violets, blackcurrants, damsons, cherries, plums, tobacco and liquorice and cedar spice. Deep pink purple rim too. Nice weight straight away but with tension - you get clearly ripe fruit with such high acidity. Balanced, relatively lean but still juicy, certainly full and intense but streamlined ending on a real graphite and wet stone note. Slightly more lean and austere than some but not harsh, just not as fleshy as normal. It’s got body and style, nice movement and energy, a hint of fleshiness and subtle chew to the tannins. I like this, feels a real mix of ripe and cool with freshness on the finish. 3.75pH. 14% press.
Château Pape Clément, Pessac-Léognan (Cru Classé de Graves)	93	58.2	-6%	708	With aromas of blackberry, plum and crushed tobacco offering promise, I feel that the palate comes across a touch over extracted, with tannins coming to the fore. The good news is less new oak, so that the estate aims for balance, but perhaps the 2023 vintage here is not ideal? In any case, while I appreciate the intensity of the palate, I feel that one should be more conservative until after the bottling, to see the extent to which the barrel ageing will soften the palate.
Château Léoville Poyferré, St-Julien (2ème Cru Classé)	96	56.5	-32.7%	674	Bramble fruit tones on the nose with some floral elements of peony, violet and rose. Smells rich and ripe and quite opulent. Smooth and agile, a lovely energy straight away with bright, almost high-toned fruit, the acidity giving the lift and sense of freshness. Lean and straight but so juicy so you get the relatively tight structure but with mouthwatering acidity and a touch of sweetness adding bounce and pep to the expression. It’s still quite compact in terms of real expansion but there’s a long length. Really suave, almost subtle and dialled back which is great and the juiciness is totally moreish. I love it. Easy, generous, appealing. 52.78hl/ha. 10% press wine. 2% Petit Verdot completes the blend. 55% grand vin production.
Château Léoville Barton, Pauillac (2ème Cru Classé)	96	55.8	-13.1%	670	With vivid - and subtle - notes of cassis, iris, violet and seashell minerality, this seamless wine impresses in 2023. Prominent tannins (it is, after all, dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon), show refinement with much palate depth and classy juiciness leading to a long finish that denotes both lightness and depth. A quintessential St-Julien. Ageing in 60% new oak will ensure a long-lasting wine that would be fine upon release but will benefit from a decade of ageing in your cellar.
Château Duhart-Milon, Pauillac (4ème Cru Classé)	95	55	-8%	684	Some herbal bramble notes on the nose, soft dark chocolate, blackcurrant, flowers, liquorice and dark chocolate. Not huge aromatics, quite quiet. Round and smooth, a lovely juiciness but with weight and balance, gorgeous texture - a little salty and stony, a tiny bit grippy but gorgeous overall expansion in the mouth giving flavour without any overt heaviness. Lovely softness but this still has power and energy. Lifted and intense but so finessed. It has broad shoulders with graphite and wet stone touches alongside bramble fruit and great, almost piercing acidity. Lovely. 60% grand vin production. 3.8pH. 15% press. New cellar as of 2020.
Château Clerc Milon, Pauillac (5ème Cru Classé)	96	52.8	-0.185	660	Strong intense nose, some herbal markers and blackcurrants. Gorgeous vibrant colour in the glass, vivid purple rim. Round and full - rich for the vintage, a lovely weight to the texture, yes it’s straight and streamlined but it also has juicy and plummy fruit, acidity that isn't too pronounced or too overt and tannins that grip and take hold. Clean and clear, perhaps not the longest of them all, but there’s an enjoyable lingering wet stone, chalky minerality on the finish. Straight and well defined, this has some chew which I also like, and with time in oak, this will expand. Lots on offer! 1.5% Carménère and 1% Petit Verdot complete the blend. 59% grand vin production. 68 IPT.
Château Gazin, Pomerol	94	48	-27%	582	Vivid fruit aromas of strawberry jam, blackberry and plum. The palate shows rather smooth tannin, with plenty of wet stone minerality and tonicity, without any notion of hard or drying tannins. Indeed, this is textbook example of mainly Merlots finding their place in deep clay that kept things fresh during the heatwave. Excellent palate depth! Bordering on a 95-point score, which may happen after barrel ageing broadens the palate even more.
Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan (Cru Classé de Graves)	95	45.6	-17%	549	Cool blue fruit and tobacco leaf denote this wine, which packs almost Pauillac like power in 2023, not as overtly charming as it can be. The mid palate depth seems a bit coiled in with some standoffish tannins, but overall brisk and true to the style of the estate, if not a 'sunny vintage' on the palate. In short, a serious Domaine de Chevalier red that needs at least five years of cellaring to fully reward you.
Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Pauillac (5ème Cru Classé)	95	45.6	-22.4%	546	Fragrant floral and blackcurrant notes on the nose. Just ripe fruit, on the bright side but nothing out of place, not too high toned or too sour. It’s lacking a touch in density, but makes up for it in precision and nuance. Lots of fine, salty and spiced tannins support the pure fruit with a graphite edge that lingers on the tongue. It’s clean and focussed, not so vertical or wide, but there’s finesse here no doubt. Mouthwatering and minty all the way through. Very classy and classic with fine ageing potential. Excellent quality. Ageing 75% new oak. 3.56pH. A yield of 48hl/ha. 55% grand vin production. 12.5% press wine.
Château La Gaffelière, St-Émilion (Grand Cru)	95	44.5	-20.5%	540	A deep nose, floral, so perfumed, lots of ripe black bramble fruit. Concentrated and so full, there’s density on the palate, there’s so much ripe red fruit that fills the mouth with a soft grip to the tannins that support the fruit but doesn't overwhelm. This feels instantly classy, layered and complex with a gentle confidence. It’s round and slightly fleshy, although feels sculpted and muscular with volume, a lovely juiciness and a touch of dark chocolate, cedar and liquorice on the finish. Sophisticated.
Château Brane-Cantenac, Margaux (2ème Cru Classé)	96	44.5	-25.8%	534	Very aromatic, gorgeous florality on the nose, so inviting and welcoming. Really open and generous - roses, violets, peonies, red cherries and strawberries. Supple and juicy, instantly quite pretty and fun, a lively bright aspect to the red fruits - cranberry, crisp green apple, raspberry and strawberry then the fine tannins come into play and give the structure and the focus to the finish. It’s a little less plush than Brane is normally - usually more gentle, fleshy and smooth - this is a little two-toned with influence from the new oak in the tightness but there’s great potential here. Feels a bit more like a St-Julien expression - calm, relaxed, smooth, intentional, juicy and lifted. Less charming right now, more tense and precise. Ageing 18 months, 100 new oak. 13.7% press wine. 40% grand vin production.
Château La Mission Haut-Brion, La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan	93	42	-36.3%	540	Milk chocolate, blackcurrant and bramble fruit on the nose, gorgeous scents. Ripe and plummy, juicy and so bright, lovely clarity but such precision, really well defined, tension is there and there are edges to the tannins but there is also such good movement. Not plump at all, great clarity with freshness and lift. Lovely sculpting, not muscular but there’s weight and depth here. And I love the fleshy tannins just giving a bit of crushed velvet texture to the palate. Bright, balanced, vibrant, and long too. Soft and lush. 3.8pH.
Château Giscours, Margaux (3ème Cru Classé)	95	40.8	-18.4%	492	Some clear Cabernet notes on the nose, herbal elements, blackcurrant leaf and cranberry fruit. Smells ripe and cool with gorgeous milk chocolate elements. Energy is the first thing that springs to mind. There’s power here but there’s precision and velvety tannins to this too which gives both structure and brightness. Excellent harmony, this has roundness and depth, not too lean, with crunchy and really present chalky, wet stone tannins. Cranberry and strawberry with blueberry. Still lean, it’s straight but finessed with long, lingering flavours. It’s not as soft and plush as Giscours can be, not as naturally sexy, it’s more serious, but there’s suaveness here. Excellent effort. 3.75pH. Ageing 50% new oak. 70% grand vin production.
Château Léoville-Las Cases, Clos du Marquis, St-Julien	94	38.5	-0.36	462	Great aromatics, fresh and lively but deep and opulent too - ripe blackcurrant and plum with some cool blueberries. Smooth and sumptuous, classy and finessed. A complete wine - this has structure and a certain level of power but with such fine tannins, almost creamy. Layered and complex but effortless in its construction. Really beautifully delivered. Crunchy, but chalky, some minerality and mouthwatering acidity. Brilliant harmony and balance and sense of weight in terms of texture. 3.69pH.
Château d'Issan, Margaux (3ème Cru Classé)	95	37.2	-26%	450	Lovely fragrance, dried rose petals and raspberry fruit. Really scented and aromatic - quite inviting. Rich and juicy, a lovely weight with some chew to the expression. I like the charm on show - it’s got that fruit forwardness with licks of minty wet stone as well as fine tannins and mouthwatering acidity. Overall feels quite serious with more power on show than some, a tamed beast right now and you can feel the Petit Verdot in the blend. Round and forward, but still super finessed. This should evolve nicely. 50% grand vin production. 3.66pH. 2.5% Petit Verdot completes the blend. Ageing 50% new oak.
Château Talbot, St-Julien (4ème Cru Classé)	93	36	-25%	462	As with many Médoc wines this vintage, Château Talbot shows off the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in its blend in recent memory, reflected in cool cassis and blueberry fruit, liquorice and cigar box aromas, leading to some plum and blackberry mid palate richness. Indeed, the palate evinces much depth, juiciness and salinity: all very good things that bode well for future complexity after barrel ageing (60% new oak) and five to ten years cellaring. But we are not in 2019 or 2020, as the finish does show some tannic austerity. All things considered, a very successful Talbot, and potential for a higher score in bottle.
Château Léoville-Las Cases, Le Petit Lion du Marquis de Las Cases, St-Julien	93	36		432	So fragrant with lovey hints of sweet red fruit on the nose. Gorgeous florally and sense of expressiveness. Smooth and supple, a little tight and compact but there is flesh here and a sense of density to the ripe blackcurrant and black cherry fruit. But it’s also so clean and pure, lovely finesse, power surges underneath the fruit and the acidity. Chiselled and well made, a little lean still, a bit straight towards the finish, but there’s a lot to like here and this feels really serious in its own right. I actually love the strawberry and cherry juiciness, that sweetness from the nose coming back and mingling with the acidity. 43hl/ha yield. Ageing 14 months, 30% new oak.
Château Malescot St Exupéry, Margaux (3ème Cru Classé)	94	32.5	-27%	390	Here we have a wine that succeeds with aromatic refinement, including white flower, crushed herbs, blackberry, plum, cassis and raspberry with hints of fine dark chocolate. Quite nice indeed. Now, the palate does have an initially tight and structured feel, highlighted by high-toned, crisp fruit, but then comes the seashell fresh finish, which grew on me, with a veritably appealing drinkability aspect. Potential for a higher score once barrel ageing takes its course.
Château d'Armailhac, Pauillac (5ème Cru Classé)	94	32.4	-14%	408	Gorgeous fragrance, so floral and alive on the nose, minty and herbal as well as full of violet and cherry elements. Smells quite intense but fresh too. Bright and in focus, streamlined with a racy core - bright acidity and fine tannins, very harmonious if still strict and focussed. It’s full and balanced in its own way with good structure and persistence from start to finish. Sleek, tangy, taut, I like the soft power, the slightly grippy tannins and the freshness throughout. Leaves a bitter grapefruit orange skin tang on the finish. Highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. 62 IPT. 2% Petit Verdot completes the blend.
Château Branaire-Ducru, St-Julien (2ème Cru Classé)	95	32	-19.2%	384	Really fragrant on the nose; graphite and liquorice, dark blackcurrant and bramble fruit elements with highly-charged floral aromatics. Smells rich and ripe but clean also. Precise and finessed, this has a lovely energy straight away, great movement and motion from start to finish. Juicy and supple, crunchy, really lovely acidity, not too sharp or too tart with fine tannins that give such a lovely frame. Not dense at all - this is streamlined but is given some weight by the ripe fruit and some texture by the soft stoniness. Pretty and stylish and still packing some power - has a tiny air of opulence about it probably because they’ve used all four grapes with Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc adding complexity. It has a bit more warmth, and a touch of sweetness, than some others which are more straight. I like this a lot, still with freshness and cool undertones. Hints of cedar and spiced mint on the finish with some graphite and wet stone too. 18 months ageing, 60% new oak. 13% press wine. First vintage in the new, gravity-fed cellar. 53% grand vin production. 3.63pH. 51hl/ha yield. 3.5% Petit Verdot completes the blend.
Château Cos d'Estournel, Les Pagodes de Cos, St-Estèphe	92	31.2	-18.7%	396	Strongly aromatic on the nose, the Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot really making their mark despite comprising only 2% of the blend each. Vivid pink/purple in the glass, amazing vibrancy to the colour. Bright and buzzy, great energy, a little powdery with the tannins at the fore giving the structure but good length and balance and weight. Grippy, expansive and fresh, lots of life and cool crunchy blue and red fruit at the fore. Ends dry and powdery. Feels a little subdued and taken over by the structure right now but there’s clearly power on show. Could be lovely in time. Ageing 20% new oak.
Château Lagrange, St-Julien (3ème Cru Classé)	95	31.2	-21.1%	372	Another great vintage from Lagrange. Strongly scented, lots of Cabernet markers, liquorice, toast, cedar, tobacco, some dark chocolate and dark bramble fruit - blackcurrants and blueberries with perfumed accents too. Smooth and supple, almost velvety on the palate, this has a thickness of fine tannins, and plump fruit with a great juiciness. A touch of bitterness on the finish - some iodine notes, oyster shell salinity and some oak toast. I like the plump, almost fleshy aspect, balancing the acidity with a hint of sweetness.
Château Phélan Ségur, St-Estèphe	95	31.2	-16.1%	370	An excellent Phélan. Darkly fragrant, herbal and softly floral with blackcurrant, red cherry and coffee bean accents. Smooth and supple, gorgeous approachability in the juiciness and sense of life. So easy to enjoy this, cool and classic scents of blue fruits and crisp red fruit. Layered, clean and finessed. Svelte, not much muscle but there’s underlying power in the long finish with hints of mint. Extremely balanced and juicy, with a touch of sweetness and freshness and then the cleaning minerality comes through giving a powdery soft ending with elements of wet stone and graphite. Very St-Estephe and very successful. 52hl/ha yield. 60% grand vin, 40% second wine. Two thirds of the wine is vinified with with indigenous yeasts to give more terroir identity. Longest harvest ever at the estate, beginning on September 18 until October 11. 1.5% Petit Verdot completes the blend.
Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, Le Croix Ducru, St-Julien	93	29.4	-18%	365	Herbal, savoury aromatics, the Cabernet really speaking on the nose. Soft sage, mint, liquorice, blackcurrant, violet and some red fruits too. Lovely profile. Streamlined and straight - focussed but with supple, soft tannins that fill the mouth. Lovely salinity that extends the expression. Tannins are definitely more integrated with some of the subtle power coming at the end. I like this wine this year, soft, not trying so hard, juicy, chalky and plush, still with that minty, clove Cabernet spice and blackcurrant fruit. It’s dark and serious but this will be a lovely wine in time. 3.71pH, 91 IPT. Ageing 12 months, 60% new oak.
Château Langoa Barton, St-Julien (3ème Cru Classé)	93	29.4	-13.5%	350	While the nose lacks the éclat of a recent run of excellent vintages here, with a more downbeat expression, there is no denying the classy expression of the Cabernet Sauvignon, which makes up 60% of the blend. There is poise in an expression not only of cassis but floral rose. Furthermore, the wine has a solid tannic edge, which will be tamed during the barrel ageing at 60% new oak, which also should broaden the palate. All this augurs well for cellaring. I also like the alcohol and acidity balance, and while the barrel sample lacks the depth of a superior vintage like 2020 - tasted on two occasions - it shows refinement reflecting St-Julien. Potential for a higher score in bottle.
Château Lafon-Rochet, St-Estèphe (4ème Cru Classé)	93	27.5	-19%	330	Cool blue fruits and dark chocolate on the nose with blackcurrant and bramble fruit. Lovely fresh fragrance. Round and textured, a nice filling weight and body to this, almost chewy, juicy and lively, really in balance - very welcoming and generous and verging on charming. I like the pep to this, upbeat and fun, on the high acid side but there’s something very welcoming about it. Chalky and mineral on the finish, a powdery sensation lingers on the tongue. This will need some time to age in oak to soften it a touch and allow it to expand but this is a stylish 2023. 55% grand vin production. The estate will be certified organic as of the 2024 vintage. 3.75pH.
Château Malartic-Lagravière, Pessac-Léognan (Cru Classé de Graves)	95	26.4	-21.4%	318	Gorgeous fragrance, quite dark and perfumed, dark chocolate, spice and graphite. Smooth and supple, nicely agile in the glass. Good weight - it’s sleek but this has bounce and great charm. Juicy and lively, but an almost sweet rather than sour juiciness which slowly expands in the mouth. Feels calm and collected, charming and suave. Nothing out of place with just gripping, saline, liquorice and graphite-edged tannins. Still a bit compact on the finish, but this has a long length. Really lovely, streamlined and feels finessed. High definition tannins and long minty finish. 15-16% press. 3.74pH. 50% grand vin production. Yields of 39hl/ha for the reds.
Château Batailley, Pauillac (5ème Cru Classé)	96	26	-0.12	324	An exceptional Batailley this year. Cool blue fruits and a graphite nose, salinity and minerality coming from the aromatics. Energy, focus and precision here - it’s straight and linear, the plumpness has gone into Lion but this is focused and direct, really streamlined with precise edges to the tannins and cool blue and bramble hedgerow fruit. It’s quite a serious take, but it has a juicy, almost sweet core of blackcurrant and cherry, with a slate finish. Well constructed, precise, finessed - totally classic. You cannot go wrong with this and for the price it’s insanely good.
Château La Lagune, Haut-Médoc (3ème Cru Classé)	94	25.5	-25%	330	Dark nose, really quite vivid and vibrant, lots of blackberries and some herbal markers. Beautifully fragrant, smells so expressive and really ripe. Smooth and clean, a lovely crisp texture to this with super fine tannins that coat the mouth in a soft chalkiness with really high menthol, herbal Cabernet markers. Although this has a tight core with a focussed line from start to finish it’s not austere or too serious. Finessed and detailed, strawberries, cranberries and blackcurrants, a real mixture of ripe fruit and cool freshness. Very drinkable with delicate fruit and high acidity. This will age extremely well. No Petit Verdot in the blend this year. 18 months ageing, 50% new oak. 3.75pH. 1% press wine. Two thirds grand vin production. A yield of 30-35hl/ha.
Château Haut-Bages Libéral, Pauillac (5ème Cru Classé)	93	25.2	-22%	306	Great aromatics, really quite scented on the nose. Highly fragrant with purple flowers, damsons and rich black and red fruit. Great acidity, more juicy and fun than some Pauillacs with lots of energy and brightness. Really feel the vivacity to this wine, straight and clean, precise, not so much weight, the straight Cabernets are doing all the talking with some wet stone minerality on the back. Friendly, lovely and precise. Approachable, this doesn’t have the seriousness of some but this is well made with lots of freshness, mint, cedar and tobacco and liquorice on the long finish. 3.45pH.
Château Angludet, Margaux	95	24		288	A brilliant Angludet in 2023. Fresh aromas, smells clean and lively, blue fruit, minty aspects. Soft floral perfumed accent also, very Margaux. Soft and smooth, very open and accessible - this has such charm with a gentle plushness. Feels as if it’s from a ripe vintage, the fruit and tannins are ripe, soft, powdery with bright blackcurrant and cherry. Lovely mint freshness on the finish. It’s gentle, calm, not at all severe or too straight with a drinkable, fresh feeling. Fun and friendly but also serious with underlying power accented by menthol, liquorice, tobacco and cedar spice on the finish. 20hl/ha yield. No press wine. Very light pumping overs. Vinification in concrete. 12 months ageing, 60% barrels (30% new), 40% amphoras. 3.7pH.
Château Grand-Puy Ducasse, Pauillac (5ème Cru Classé)	91	23.4	-18%	288	Quite dark coloured wine with blackcurrant, plum and some tar aromas. A robust palate reflects Pauillac power, but I sense a bit of tannic austerity. Tasted on a second occasion, and it was better, but on both occasions, it lacked the mid palate depth of the top Pauillacs in this vintage, but there is enough of a vinous nature to the wine, so let's see how it turns out after barrel ageing (35% new).
Château Gloria, St-Julien	93	22.8	-27%	275	Distinctly floral aromas quite beguiled my senses - a brilliant start - leading to a pretty palate: balanced, clean, and with plenty of charm. Tasted a second time, I noticed some raw tannin, but that can be resolved with the barrel ageing (38% new in for the 2023 vintage). Overall, an excellent St-Julien, and for a very good price.
Château Ormes de Pez, St-Estèphe	92	16.8	-20%	210	Some nice aromatics, not massively expressive. Blackcurrant, plum and cranberry - all crisp fruit aspects. A little tart and high toned, but there’s such ripeness too so you get high acidity with quite concentration that give a wide mouthfeel and under it all there’s freshness and a cool mint tone. Lots going on with a steely core too. Not quite harmonised but will be lovely. 7% press wine. 6% Petit Verdot completes the blend.
Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc (5ème Cru Classé)	91	16.8	-18%	198	Nice aromatics, floral and red berry tones. Crisp and crunchy red fruit, high acidity but not too tart which then turns a little creamy with a soft powderiness to the tannins on the finish. This has a good lift and is well made, with cool fresh tones throughout. It’s still a little lean and austere - fairly light and tapered but has an element of class with lots of drinkability. A yield of 43hl/ha. 4% Petit Verdot completes the blend.