Michaela Morris discovers a year full of surprises, including 'best yet' bottlings from some producers in this variable vintage which puts winemaking style first.
Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for all the Brunello di Montalcino 2018 wines and 2017 Riserva wines
| Producer | Appellation | Score | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Canalicchio di Sopra, Vigna Montosoli | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 96 | The first release of Canalicchio di Sopra’s Montosoli bottling comes from the estate’s Filari Lunghi vineyard, a pebbly, northwest-facing plot reaching 255 metres. This gives way slowly but steadily, exposing heady rose, wet stone and fragrant porcini. Decidedly mineral-driven, the palate performs with precision and depth. Tight tannins are fine-boned, and the appetising finish lingers with a salty stoniness that makes you salivate. It's impossible not to admire the elegance here. Click to see full details | |
| Fuligni | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 96 | Under the leadership of Maria Flora Fuligni since 1971, along with her long-time right-hand Dr Daniela Perino - now the estate’s CEO - Fuligni is one of the denomination’s most consistent performers. The 2018 does not disappoint: it epitomises the elegance of the vintage. A captivating synthesis of florals and earth, the nose radiates pressed violet, lavender and rose with truffle and tobacco accents. It expands in the mouth with flavour rather than weight or brawn. Red currants and orange are amplified by piercing acidity, and well-formed, magnificently textured tannins are chalky and adequately padded, giving layers and profundity. Not pushed beyond its capacity, this will drink beautifully over the next decade. Click to see full details | |
| Il Marroneto, Grazie della Madonna | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 96 | Il Marroneto’s single-vineyard bottling is a selection of small loose bunches, manifested in the density of fruit and assuredness of structure. Next to the estate’s ‘classic’ Brunello, it often leads with an earthier, more autumnal countenance. The 2018 corresponds with fragrances of chestnut and forest undergrowth juxtaposed with the vintage’s fruit sweetness. Layers of long suede-like tannins wrap around fleshy black cherry. As it opens, subtle traces of pepper, leather and incense pledge more to come. Above all, Madonna delle Grazie embodies the most positive attributes of the vintage as it flows with agility and grace. Click to see full details | |
| Salicutti, Piaggione | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 96 | While founder Francesco Leanza sold Salicutti in 2016, the 2018 is a stunning tribute to his style. Kudos to new owners Felix and Sabine Eichbauer, who have used their resources to make thoughtful improvements in the vineyards. With precision of aromas and fullness of flavour, Piaggione manages to pull off weightlessness with sneaky concentration. The colour is pale but the nose is penetrating: rose and raspberry are countered by an earthy tug of chestnut and hazelnut. It flows gracefully, delivering flavours of dark currants and rhubarb while the structure remains tight knit. A minerally timbre reverberates on the finish. Click to see full details | |
| San Filippo, La Lucère | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 96 | Planted in 1997, La Lucère is encircled by forest on three sides. The breezy, east-facing site is relatively cool and always the estate’s last to be harvested. Aged in lightly toasted barriques and tonneaux, 20% new, the 2018 is the most elegantly sculpted and effortlessly balanced wine I have tasted from the estate. It opens with attractive scents of cinnamon, violet and rosemary, and boasts impressive concentration of woodland berry flavours but isn’t heavy. Integrated acidity provides proper support, and the tannins are long and fine, giving texture and shape. The best is still yet to come. Click to see full details | |
| Argiano, Vigna del Suolo | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 95 | Winemaker Bernardino Sani describes Vigna del Suolo simply as the best fruit of the estate. It hails from the oldest plantings on a limestone-rich soil reaching an elevation of 320 metres. While it demonstrates greater density than the estate bottling, do not expect a brawny beast - this is exquisitely refined and midweight, though not insubstantial. Gorgeous scents of raspberry, rooibos tea and rhubarb greet the nose. The palate is pure-fruited and invigorating, with crunchy acidity. Grainy tannins grip confidently, and it closes with a long, energetic and mouthwatering finish. Very appealing now but should charm for the next dozen years. Click to see full details | |
| Canalicchio di Sopra | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 95 | Canalicchio di Sopra has put out a strong set of Brunello from the 2018 vintage, including this particularly impressive 'classic' bottling. As is customary, it blends fruit from holdings on the hill of Montosoli with plots in Canalicchio. The most immediately expressive vintage I have tasted from the estate, the 2018 also packs plenty of promise. Iris, liquorice and balsamic notes are underscored by an alluring truffle accent. The palate is fluid and charming, with chalky tannins that sneak up but remain velvety. Sweet forest berries are countered by minty green freshness, and the finish is positively crisp with tangy cranberry. Click to see full details | |
| Castiglion del Bosco, Campo del Drago | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 95 | Facing southwest and sitting on Galestro soil at 450 metres above sea level, Campo del Drago is typically the estate’s last vineyard to be picked. In 2018, it was harvested mid-October, included about 30% whole bunches and saw its usual mix of 30% barriques and 70% large casks for ageing. It's more brooding that the classic Brunello, showing sweet spice and cedar-infused black currants and plum. Full but not rich, it's shored up by gravelly tannins and scores of acidity. The palate hints at forest undergrowth, mint and stone, though this will need a few more years to reveal all of its nuances. Click to see full details | |
| Gaja, Pieve Santa Restituta Sugarille | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 95 | First produced in 1995, Sugarille is not made every vintage - after skipping 2017, this single-vineyard bottling returns. While it doesn’t have the sheer compactness of 2015 or commanding power of 2016, it is still true to its dense, rich character, with a twist of 2018 levity. Dark cherry and black plum are spiked with bitter herbs, tobacco and wet stone. Sturdy tannins form a solid framework and tantalising acidity soars. Sweet oak nuances melt into the liquorice root finish. A great contender for the cellar. Click to see full details | |
| Il Marroneto | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 95 | Il Marroneto’s 2018 Brunello personifies elegance, ease and prettiness without being banal or superficial. Harvested from 5 October, there's sweetness to the red berry core that provides a backdrop for cinnamon stick, sarsaparilla and violet accents to parade. Ripe tannins are fine-grained and enveloping as this reaches accessible depths, and appetising acidity begs another sip – but not before the leisurely finish unfolds with spice and raspberry. A seamless symphony that echoes Alessandro Mori’s unhurried, unforced approach to winemaking. As tempting as this is now, a bit more patience will be rewarded. Click to see full details | |
| Le Ragnaie, Casanovina Montosoli | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 95 | To preserve freshness, Riccardo Campinoti bottled all his Brunello a full year earlier than usual and reduced time in wood from 36 to 30 months. Nevertheless, Casanovina is even more closed than when I tried it a year ago, right after bottling. Of Le Ragnaie’s four new releases, this is the most complete and boasts the ripest, most dignified tannins, although they are still firm. Aromas are redolent of red berries, violet, fennel and lilac. It will need time to reveal its full potential, but for now, crunchy fruit and steely acidity distinguish the mineral-led, energetic palate. Click to see full details | |
| Lisini | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 95 | Near Sant'Angelo in Colle, on the road that leads to Castelnuovo dell’Abate, Lisini is within the zone of Sesta. The estate preference is to pick quite late, and they are one of the last in the area to harvest. The relative ripeness and concentration is evident in 2018 but not at the expense of balance. In fact, Lisini’s Brunello is one of the vintage’s more exciting and profound wines. It opens slowly with hints of chestnut and smoke, then discloses dark cherry, iron and fragrant moist soil. Tannins are tightly stitched yet malleable, giving a satisfying mouthful. Finishes with a salty tang and mineral drive. Click to see full details | |
| Poggio di Sotto | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 95 | In southern Montalcino, near the town of Castelnuovo dell’Abate, Poggio di Sotto captures the lightness of the vintage with aplomb, and long maturation in 30hl Slavonian oak casks has not compromised its vitality. With pretty and precise aromas of cherry and raspberry it's redolent of summer, yet fragrant wet leaves and woodsy rosehip speak of autumn. The palate is finessed and fluid, moving with grace. Chalky tannins cling discreetly yet persistently. An underlying luscious ripeness is positively moreish. Click to see full details | |
| San Polino, Helichrysum | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 95 | Helichrysum is crafted from vineyards around San Polino’s winery in Montalcino’s southeast. Harvested just after the estate Brunello, the grapes saw the same pre-fermentation maceration to fix colour, as well as gentle daily pumpovers to keep fragile skins intact. Opening slowly, it's as equally distinct in fragrance as its sister bottling - though more Mediterranean in temperament. Lavender and scented broom mingle with pepper, expanding with sumptuous tannins that hem in plentiful fruit, perky acidity that keeps it lively, and a long and violet-tinged finish. It definitely carries the stuffing and structure for ageing. Click to see full details | |
| Talenti, Piero | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 95 | While less immediately expressive than Talenti’s classic Brunello, Piero is by no means austere, and the 2018 could be my favourite vintage of this single-parcel selection yet. It presents a lovely purity of wild forest berry aromas lifted by mint, lavender and fennel, while blood orange and cocoa ring out on the palate. Matured in 500l French oak tonneaux - 30% new - the wood is well-digested, lending a well built polished frame that doesn't overpower the fruit. There's sneaky concentration and crunchy acidity balancing out the whole. Click to see full details | |
| Altesino, Vigna Montosoli | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 94 | Harvested between the end of September and beginning of October, Altesino’s Montosoli bottling was reduced by 50% due to a strict selection of grapes. The nose divulges appealing vanilla, cedar and truffle nuances which meld beautifully with sweet forest berry flavours. Fine-grained tannins are still tight and firm, corseting the admirably concentrated core. It will show more of its charms with further bottle age. Maturation is in 30hl Slavonian and Allier oak casks. Click to see full details | |
| Canalicchio di Sopra, Vigna Casaccia | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 94 | Francesco Ripaccioli explains that La Casaccia’s clay soils absorbed the rains of September, initially diluting the grapes. He credits the subsequent dry northern winds with concentrating the berries as the estate waited until 28 September to pick. The resulting wine is certainly one of the vintage’s more solidly structured Brunello and also displays the darkest fruit of the estate’s trio of bottlings. Cherry and even blackcurrant are met with sage, rosemary and wet soil. The firmly built palate of dense fruit is framed by clingy tannins, while underlying juiciness keeps it bright and buoyant. Click to see full details | |
| Casanova di Neri, Giovanni Neri | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 94 | Casanova di Neri’s newest Brunello hails from a 7ha plot purchased in 2017. In the slightly untamed area of Sesta, in Montalcino’s southeast, the vineyard boasts vines over 50 years of age. A superbly multifaceted wine, it expresses becoming scents of aromatic herbs and blood orange. Velvety layers of fleshy persimmon and ample pliable tannins are countered by citrussy acidity. There's a crunch of pomegranate as well as chocolatey depths of exotic carob. Plenty of verve and vibration here. Click to see full details | |
| Castello Romitorio, Filo di Seta | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 94 | Originally planted in the late '80s with a variety of clones, Filo di Seta sits at lower elevations with respect to Romitorio’s other plots. The soil here is also richer in clay. The result is typically a riper and denser expression compared to the classic Brunello, which is indeed the case here. Plush cherry and plum are dusted with allspice and nutmeg, and there's a seductive trace of chocolate on the palate that I often find in this wine, along with polished oak. Already open and accessible though not without a solid backbone, this should dole out its copious charms steadily over the next decade. Click to see full details | |
| Cortonesi, Poggiarelli | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 94 | Poggiarelli hails from Cortonesi’s holdings in Montalcino’s southeast. Reaching 450 metres above sea level, the warm, well-drained site fared extremely well in 2018. In fact, this is the best vintage I have tried. Lively and intriguingly scented, it exhibits a classy balance of dark cherry, violets, stone and oak spice. The amply packed palate is neatly encased by sophisticated wood and invigoratingly firm tannins. One of the year’s more powerfully structured wines, it's still somewhat austere yet poised to age gracefully. Click to see full details | |
| Conti Costanti | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 94 | In 2018, Andrea Costanti used fewer tonneaux than usual, opting instead for larger, less oxidative casks, a significant portion of which were new. This lends some oak nuances but doesn’t detract. Aromas of exotic spice, violet and chestnut are amplified by a touch of volatile acidity. Those dark purple floral notes carry through to the palate, which brags lovely weight with balanced proportions and mouthwatering, citrussy acidity. The tannins are weighing down the finish right now, but give this another year or so to come together and it should be a joy to drink. Click to see full details | |
| Gaja, Pieve Santa Restituta Rennina | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 94 | Rennina brings together three neighbouring plots with varying soils, each contributing to the final expression. Sandy soil rich in marine fossils is associated with elegant perfumes, while Galestro lends structured tannins. Then there is the effect of vintage - 2018 is perceptively slimmer than 2016 and 2015, for example, but it plays to the wine’s fragrant, classy persona. An enchanting nose captures the dusty landscape and the sweet oily herbs of Tuscany. Flavours of cherry and violet saturate the palate, and beautifully integrated oak melds with long, chalky tannins. Tangy and sweet on the finish. Click to see full details | |
| La Fortuna | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 94 | Northeast of the town of Montalcino, La Fortuna neighbours the Fuligni estate. The Zannoni family also owns vineyards in the southern sector around the town of Castelnuovo dell’Abate. Blending the two areas, the 2018 is a model of freshness and focus. It exhibits a alluring nose of rose and bergamot. Bolstered by chalky tannins and a mineral backbone, the elegantly proportioned palate is replete with blood orange and inner-mouth perfume of violet that lingers through the finish. Admirable precision and persistence. Click to see full details | |
| Le Chiuse | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 94 | In leaner vintages like 2018, Lorenzo Magnelli likes to do a bit of bleeding of the must to lend a touch of fruit concentration but this hasn’t denatured the slightly sinewy, linear character of the year. Aromas are earthy and herbal rather than fruity, with fragrant tobacco, roasted coffee and black tea. Confidently extracted, it is decidedly firm but not dry, with crisp forest berries and a juicy core lurking underneath. It finishes with spiced currants. Plenty of promise for the next decade or so. Click to see full details | |
| Le Potazzine | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 94 | Le Potazzine’s breezy, high-altitude site and stony well-draining soil helped offset 2018's rains and threat of mildew. Nevertheless, the estate produced about 15% less Brunello due to a strict selection. A bit timid, it takes some coaxing to release forest herbs, leather and wild strawberry. Midweight and delicate but not fragile, it moves gracefully, delivering a core of sweet fruit while supple chalky tannins cling around the edges. Almost ready now, although it possesses enough depth for satisfying mid-term drinking. Click to see full details | |
| Mastrojanni, Vigna Loreto | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 94 | Vigna Loreto intensifies the character of Mastrojanni’s estate Brunello – like zooming in on a picture to isolate the focal point. It's flinty and stony on the nose with some cherry compote poking through. Formidably packed, the ripe core is girdled by gravelly tannins - still a bit rigid yet all is in place for a balanced evolution. With an energetic, minerally drive this is true to the 1.5-hectare vineyard’s vigorous disposition while demonstrating some of the vintage’s restraint. Click to see full details | |
| Padelletti | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 94 | Claudia Padelletti has been running this historic property for decades. Since joining in 2008, her son Silvano has made small tweaks without forsaking the staunchly traditional approach - and the wines have gained in purity and precision. The 2018 is another admirable example: a beguiling interplay of flint, balsamic herbs and fragrant lilac lace though juicy red berries. Light on its feet, this Brunello has a lovely, elegant flow. The gracious structure makes it immediately approachable but there are depths and layers that will keep giving for another decade or so. Click to see full details | |
| Pietroso | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 94 | Owner Gianni Pignattai farms 3.7 hectares of Brunello vineyards distributed among three separate plots, which he blends together. Following an admirable effort in the challenging 2017 vintage, Pietroso follows up with a beautiful 2018. It exudes pure red cherry and rose underscored by new leather and a suggestion of vanilla. Midweight and understated, this well-parsed Brunello offers just enough to sink your teeth into. The tannins are silky yet assertive, jaunty acidity elevates the red berry flavours, and the finish rings out with blood orange charm. Click to see full details | |
| Sesta di Sopra | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 94 | This tiny estate is located in the area of Sesta - Montalcino’s wild southeastern reaches. Sesta di Sopra’s wines capture the scented Mediterranean vegetation and generous warmth – even in 2018. Violet, dark plum and cinnamon scents give way to exotic woodland herbs and even porcini nuances. One of the vintage's more sumptuous examples, it proposes ample plush fruit hemmed in by firm yet seductively textured tannins. An appetising minerality runs through it, and lingering succulence begs another sip. Click to see full details | |
| Sesti | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 94 | In the far southern reaches of Montalcino, the Sesti estate expands over 100 hectares - although a mere 4.5 hectares is registered for Brunello. The vines are planted on marine sediment in a breezy, southeast-facing valley encircled by forest. Sesti’s 2018 is one of the more sumptuous yet structured wines of the vintage, though it does not lack freshness. Juniper and pepper weave through exotic floral scents of rose, lilac and wisteria. Flavours are very much in the red fruit zone, hinting at raspberry and pomegranate. Full and layered with powdery tannins building up, it finishes with a resounding juiciness. Click to see full details | |
| Argiano | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 93 | Argiano is back on track with this excellent value 2018 Brunello. Packed with flavour, it shows the vintage well: while colour is scarce - pale garnet in hue - aromas are vivacious and enticing with spiced cherry and Mediterranean flowers bursting from the glass. Midweight and fluid, it belies the vineyards’ warm southern location. Tannins are fine and layered, with a chalky texture. While the estate did come out with its Vigna del Suolo selection, there will not be a Riserva bottling of 2018. 115,000 bottles produced. Click to see full details | |
| Casanova di Neri, Tenuta Nuova | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 93 | From the estate’s Cetine vineyard, located to the southeast of Sant’Angelo in Colle, this Tenuta Nuova bottling has a Mediterranean feel and a sensuous charisma. A relatively early harvest date of 16 September preserved freshness in the grapes. Under a top-note of wood emerges lavender and balsamic herbs. There's ample concentration of ripe red cherry infused with cinnamon and wrapped in malleable tannins. Sapid, tangy acidity buoys the whole. The sleek and sophisticated wood should digest with another year in the bottle. Click to see full details | |
| Castello Romitorio | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 93 | Assembled from the estate’s highest altitude plots - between 350 and 450 metres - Castello Romitorio’s classic Brunello embodies the grace of the vintage without sacrificing depth or flavour. Aromas are ethereal at first, then take hold with fetching rosehip, liquorice root and juniper scents. Inner-mouth sweetness of pure cherry is offset by succulent acidity and powdery tannins. There's sneaky substance here with a lingering presence. The Filo di Seta may have more stuffing for ageing, but I can’t help being completely enamoured by the sheer elegance (for the price) of this. Click to see full details | |
| Castiglion del Bosco | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 93 | In the far northwest of Montalcino, the expansive Castiglion del Bosco estate sprawls over several hills of varying altitude, exposure and terrain. From 42 hectares designated for Brunello comes this impressive 150,000-bottle production. Rather than exploding with fragrance, the 2018 unveils its evocative floral scents slowly. These reach a crescendo on the palate, melding seamlessly with cheerful pure pomegranate and cherry flavours. Supple tannins are velvety in texture. Unforced and fluid, this is hard to resist now. Click to see full details | |
| Col d'Orcia | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 93 | Santiago Marone Cinzano explains that in 2018, délestage played a key role, especially over extended periods of 8-12 hours, allowing delicate skins to macerate with a reduced amount of juice in order to coax out sufficient concentration. Beautifully weighted, it's full yet agile with enough stuffing to carry it over the next decade. Above all, it underscores the freshness of the vintage: fragrances reveal themselves slowly but are very much in the floral spectrum, with cherry and thyme blossoms lifted by traces of pepper. Crunchy red plum and succulent cherry flavours take over on palate, where youthful grippy tannins need some time to yield. Click to see full details | |
| Gianni Brunelli | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 93 | As with the 2017 vintage, Laura Brunelli will not be releasing a Riserva. Instead, the Olmo vineyard which typically forms the backbone of the latter is an important component in this annata Brunello, making for a lovely and complete wine. Mint, lavender and fennel lead on the nose while sweet, succulent persimmon and crunchy pomegranate provide the backdrop on the palate, and the chalky tannins are rather sneaky in their grasp. There's a superficial accessibility, but substance, intrigue and backbone suggest even more to come. Click to see full details | |
| Podere Giodo | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 93 | In Montalcino’s southeastern zone of Sesta, Giodo is owned by one of Tuscany’s most prominent consulting oenologists, Carlo Ferrini, who runs the 10-hectare estate with his daughter, Bianca. Given Ferrini’s propensity to harvest early, grapes were picked before the mid-September rain in 2018. A sleek and chiselled Brunello, it will take a bit more time to reveal all its complexities. Fragrant brushwood and cinnamon lace through persimmon and red plum. The buttoned-up palate offers a durable backbone of wood tannin and crunchy acidity, finishing with a red currant tang. Click to see full details | |
| Le Ragnaie, Vigna Vecchia | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 93 | Le Ragnaie’s high altitude old-vine plot is always the last to be harvested - on 4 October in 2018 - but maceration time was 40 days rather than the full 60 that perfectly ripe vintages see. Wild strawberry aromas mingle with cedar and undergrowth, while the palate brings in mint nuances. Its signature youthful austerity has extra crispness of slender yet pretty fruit, and just a tiny bit of greenness to the tannins pokes through. Ultimately stony and savoury. Click to see full details | |
| La Cerbaiola di Salvioni | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 93 | This boutique estate owns just four hectares of vineyards on the southeastern side of Montalcino. Lifted and animated scents of violet, sage and rosemary permeate a backdrop of wild berries. The palate is vivacious, tending towards the red currants and blood orange spectrum. Well-formed tannins grant balanced support, building steadily towards the finish. While I would give this a bit more time in the bottle to come together, I don’t expect 2018 will be one of Salvioni’s longest lived vintages. Fewer than 10,000 bottles produced. Click to see full details | |
| San Polino | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 93 | San Polino’s classic bottling hails from a five-hectare plot in the northeast of Montalcino. The relatively flat vineyard sits on deep clay soil. In 2018, harvest of ripe grapes began on 23 September to avoid botrytis. A flinty reductiveness lingers from recent bottling, however a few swirls unlock exotic hints of smoky incense, cumin and cardamom. Crunchy red fruits pack the core, melding effortlessly with appetising acidity. Fleshy, tactile tannins give a hearty punch, but this isn’t a heavyweight bruiser. It should be drinking beautifully by the time it hits the shelves - and beyond. Click to see full details | |
| San Polo, Podernovi | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 93 | Reaching 450 metres, the three-hectare Podernovi vineyard inclines slightly to the southeast on vigorous clay-rich soil. While it generally yields relatively big, juicy grapes, it shows no sign of dilution in 2018. Woody scents give way to broom, cinnamon and dried Mediterranean flowers. Confidently extracted tannins are powdery, sophisticated and padded by soft plush fruit. There's a satisfying core of ripe red cherry, and a smooth, silky texture prevails. Well put together. Click to see full details | |
| Sesta di Sopra, Magistra | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 93 | A new wine for Sesta di Sopra, Magistra is a selection of bunches from the estate’s best exposed pockets, matured in a single Slavonian oak barrel yielding a mere 1,000 bottles. Aromas are closed and consumed by wood initially, then cedar and vanilla transition into juniper and lavender. The fruit is compact and concentrated – a mix of cherry and persimmon. Its solid frame of still-rigid tannins will need a year or two to relax, though I'm not sure this will be longer lived than the estate’s classic Brunello. Click to see full details | |
| Talenti | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 93 | To bring grapes to full ripeness, Riccardo Talenti did an ample green harvest prior to veraison and by mid-August he had completed a severe deleafing to allow the wind and sun to keep bunches dry and healthy. The results are in the glass: pristine ripe fruit recalls juicy cherry and strawberry infused with cedar, juniper and nutmeg. Buoyant acidity and smooth, layered tannins shore up the package. There's an incredible lightness of being without lacking delicious depth of flavours that Talenti seems to pull off in both warm and cool vintages alike. Click to see full details | |
| Val di Suga, Poggio al Granchio | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 93 | The 18ha Poggio al Granchio vineyard is located in the area of Podernovi, near the San Polo and San Polino estates, distinguished by steep slopes, schist soil and - with elevations rising from 380 to 450 metres - significant day and night temperature differences. The resulting wine is typically intense and ageworthy, and although 2018 is a slightly gentler version, it's still a reliable mid-term Brunello. It flaunts an exotic nose of forest herbs, jasmine, liquorice and fennel. Firmly structured but not over extracted, it's still young and tight, its succulent dark berries waiting to explode. Click to see full details | |
| Agostina Pieri | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 92 | From warm, fully south-facing vineyards near the township of Castelnuovo dell’Abate, Agostina Pieri’s 2018 combines delightful ripeness and brightness. Luscious red cherry and strawberry are permeated by grilled thyme and mint blossom, while succulent acidity and light, caressing tannins are fully integrated. It's really a pleasure to see this wine with more focus and less alcohol than some of the estate’s previous vintages of late. While not suggestive of long ageing, it will charm over the next six to seven years. Click to see full details | |
| Altesino | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 92 | With vineyards throughout Montalcino, Altesino started harvest at the beginning of September with its southernmost holdings. After rain mid-month, the estate continued with plots in the north. The resulting wine is light yet bright in colour with an immediately attractive nose of raspberry and tarragon. Linear and direct, the chiselled palate offers mineral intrigue with an expansive juiciness. Dainty tannins are almost an afterthought, but acidity will carry this midweight, balanced charmer. Click to see full details | |
| Baricci | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 92 | Agronomist and winemaker at his family’s estate, Federico Buffi brought in Brunello grapes well after the mid-September rains - on the 28th and 29th. As is usual for Baricci, the wine is still in a reductive state at this early stage. Nevertheless, the 2018 is built for delightful near- to mid-term drinking. With coaxing, aromas of spiced cranberry, orange peel and cocoa build in intensity. The framework is distinguished by steely acidity and fine-boned, tactile tannins that stretch out across the palate. Flavours of sour cherry and cool minerals grace this midweight package. Click to see full details | |
| Capanna | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 92 | With vineyards on the Montosoli hill in Montalcino’s north, Capanna is now in the hands of the third and fourth generations. Father and son team, Patrizio and Amedeo Cencioni have released a lovely 2018 - an appetising fusion of mineral, sweet spice and medicinal herbs. The tannins are quite brisk but ultimately supple in mouthfeel, while a touch of wood dryness through the mid-palate resolves on the finish. Bright and lingering with a savoury tang. Click to see full details | |
| Caprili | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 92 | Noting average temperatures 5°C less than in 2017, Giacomo Bartolomei says he was able to wait until mid-September to start harvesting the 2018. His Brunello is a slimmer, trimmer version compared to the last three vintages but still captures the essence of Tavernelle, where Caprili’s south-facing vineyards look towards the sea. It speaks softly of spiced red plum and potpourri. Somewhere between mid-weight and full, it remains light on its feet while its clayey tannins expand and build across the palate, bringing the wine to a saline finish. Click to see full details | |
| Carpineto | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 92 | Purchased in 2015, Carpineto’s Montalcino estate extends over a rocky ridge to the west of Montalcino. The 10 hectares of vineyards are surrounded by forest reaching upwards of 500 metres, making it a cool site. The 2018 shows admirable vibrancy and focus: cedar, chestnut and vanilla overlie woodland berry aromas, while the palate brings in sweet herbal nuances of sage and tarragon. Rather sophisticated, its polished, slender tannins are well-harmonised, and its slightly nervous energy makes for a lively wine. Click to see full details | |
| Casisano | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 92 | The 2018 Casisano conveys both freshness of the vintage and its high-altitude site deftly and sincerely. As the estate will not come out with a Riserva, lots from the Colombaiolo vineyard were blended here. It is delicate without being fragile or deficient. Aromas start with a glossy candied red fruit character progressing to leafy herbs, juniper and strawberry. Lean and light, this is very crisp with almost-bracing acidity yet with sufficient padding to counter. The fine tannins are tautly fastened. Click to see full details | |
| Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona, Pianrosso | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 92 | Both of Ciacci Piccolomini’s 2018s offer a ‘deliciousness’ of taste and a truly umami quality, however the Pianrosso selection delivers greater Brunello satisfaction. Not quite 12 hectares, this iron-rich marly vineyard soaked up just enough warmth to clearly demonstrate its southern origins. It has more shape, form and depth to lend endurance. Iron and salty minerals emerge from a backdrop of persimmon and hibiscus, finishing with Mediterranean herbs. Docile and yielding, the gentle sandy tannins give textural complexity as well as an immediate drinkability. Click to see full details | |
| Col di Lamo | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 92 | In the relatively cool sector of Torrenieri, Col di Lamo has been improving steadily over the last few years. This is credit to the hard work of owner Giovanna Neri as well as her collaboration with Sangiovese specialist and consultant, Maurizio Castelli. Lively and persistent, its whiffs of violet, lilac, mint and green tobacco offer instant appeal. On the palate, crunchy acidity reiterates the clean spark, yet there's also plenty of vigour and chew. Clingy, clayey tannins make for a solid backbone. This has more character than polish but will charm with its charismatic, genuine profile. Click to see full details | |
| Cortonesi, La Mannella | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 92 | In north Montalcino, Cortonesi’s La Mannella property was more affected by the rain and humidity than the estate’s Poggiarelli vineyard in the southeast. It required a greater number of passages at harvest and after a severe selection, production was down an estimated 20%. While lifted in its floral fragrance, the 2018 is not giving up everything all at once. Equally tight on the palate, compact concentrated fruit is enfolded in slightly dry tannins. Invigorating acidity gives some levity, and smoky black currants emerge on the finish. This crams in quite a bit for the vintage but will show more after another year or so in bottle. Click to see full details | |
| Fattoi | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 92 | With seven hectares designated for Brunello, Fattoi’s vineyards sit at an average of 330 metres above sea level. The warm, southwest exposure helped coax out palpable ripeness in 2018. Aromas and flavours revolve around red plum and cherry, but what this might miss in intricate details, it makes up for in personality. Clayey tannins coat the mouth, lending supple chew, and there's a tasty saltiness with lingering exotic spice accents. Click to see full details | |
| Franco Pacenti | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 92 | In 2018, besides targeted de-leafing, the Pacenti family dropped fruit 15 days before the actual harvest to encourage concentration, structure and complete ripening of the smallest, loosest bunches that remained. Still somewhat muddled at this stage, the nose uncovers diffused florals, smoke and stone. There's an appealing background accent of autumn leaves, and the palate reveals promise - its sturdy tannins bolster ample concentration of joyful fruit and a salty, mineral finish. Click to see full details | |
| Il Palazzone | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 92 | This brings together fruit from cool northwest-facing plots, at 540 metres near the town of Montalcino, with warmer, lower-lying vineyards in the region’s southeast. The 2018 saw a slightly shorter maceration – just two weeks as opposed to three. Taking time to come into focus, the nose suggests attractive strawberry blossom, cinnamon and rosehip. The palate is lean and clear fruited with red currants and lots of mineral nuance packed in. The tannins are tightly wound and sinewy, giving texture and backbone, and the sappy acidity is positively scrumptious. Beautifully balanced in its proportions. Click to see full details | |
| Il Poggione | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 92 | This large and historic property in Montalcino’s southwest draws upon 140 hectares of estate vineyards to deliver a very complete and satisfying Brunello. A smoky introduction leads to leather and tobacco nuances which repeat on the palate. The 2018 is chock full of flavour as cherry and baking spice join in. It feels midweight but there is plenty of stuffing with a vigorous chewiness contributing positively to the gratifying mouthfeel. It will be even better with another year in bottle. Click to see full details | |
| Le Macioche | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 92 | Owned by oenologist brothers Renzo and Riccardo Cotarella and their daughters, Le Macioche is a 6ha estate in the southeast of Montalcino. The high altitude site sees significant differences between day and night-time temperature, which comes through in the profusely fragrant 2018. Sandalwood and mint permeate cranberry and red currants. Tangy and flowing at first, wood tannins then give substantial texture through the mid-palate. It remains well-proportioned and midweight with some firmness. Click to see full details | |
| Mastrojanni | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 92 | Reaching airy heights of 450 metres in Montalcino’s southeast, Mastrojanni’s 19 hectares of Brunello are harvested and vinified by parcel before ageing in large French oak casks. The 2018 exhibits a smoky nose, punctuated with iron and crushed rocks. Fruity charms of dark cherry and currants appear on the palate, still countered by stony minerals. Warming alcohol lends richness, and the tannins are dusty and dry on the entry, then sweeten up on the finish. Click to see full details | |
| Poggio Antico | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 92 | Sold in 2017 to a Belgian investment group, Poggio Antico is on the western flank of Montalcino boasting vineyards upwards of 500 metres. Aromas of pure red currants are infused with intriguing smoky incense. Midweight and well-proportioned, it features sleek and pristine red berries braced by powdery tannins and zesty acidity. Since acquiring the property, the new owners have undertaken extensive soil mapping to identify unique plots, allowing for precision viticulture, and have begun the conversion to organic viticulture. Click to see full details | |
| San Filippo | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 92 | While this sees a small percentage of fruit from the estate’s La Lucère vineyard, it is crafted primarily from a lower lying, north- to northeast-facing parcel directly surrounding the winery. A profusion of sweet herbs – from sage to lavender - gives way to forest brush and flint. The palate articulates less that the nose at the moment, though a core of concentrated red cherry lies in wait. The tannins are vigorous and somewhat wood-driven, but they smooth out on the finish. The 2018 should come together nicely after another year in bottle. Click to see full details | |
| San Polo | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 92 | San Polo is located on the southeastern flank of Montalcino. Monte Amiata looms over the property, providing a constant breeze which helps keep humidity low. Its 16 hectares are divided into eight parcels and blended according to the vintage. The brick coloured 2018 opens with charry scents, then smoky forest berries, dried orange peel and a touch of juniper join in. The core is amply concentrated without being forced, while supple tannins fill the mouth with assertive, balanced structure. Finishes with an earthy twist of liquorice root. Click to see full details | |
| Tenute Silvio Nardi, Vigneto Manachiara | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 92 | While Emilia Nardi decided to forgo her Poggio Doria bottling in 2018, she did produce 3,600 bottles of Manachiara. Made exclusively from southeast-facing plots on the eastern flank of Montalcino, it sports an attractive nose of vanilla, plum and cherry, with new leather accents flirting in the background. Seductively fashioned, generous prune fruit is seamlessly enveloped in layers of supple tannins. Juicy through the core, it finishes with sweet spice. Click to see full details | |
| Uccelliera | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 92 | Uccelliera is crafted from multiple plots at varying altitudes and exposures around the town of Castelnuovo dell’Abate. While a bit more restrained and less voluptuous than recent vintages, the 2018 nevertheless remains true to its generous, intense style and it will satisfy those seeking a hearty Brunello full of gusto. Wood-driven notes of vanilla and char dissolve into nutmeg, cinnamon and herbs. There's a touch of macerated fruit on the palate underscored by sweet earth and tobacco. Abundant tannins remain supple and enveloping, while a core of concentrated acidity keeps it all in check through to a very spicy finish. Click to see full details | |
| Val di Suga, Vigna del Lago | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 92 | Vigna del Lago surrounds Val di Suga’s cellar in Montalcino’s northwest. The gently sloping vineyard sits on clay soil at 280 metres above sea level. It's matured exclusively in large 30 to 40hl Slavonian oak casks, preserving its glorious sweet fruit purity. Subtly perfumed, the 2018 proposes delicate white blossoms and orange, elevating red berry scents. Light and vibrant, it presents more like a Rosso di Montalcino at first, however a layer of powdery texture and its lingering mineral core lend complexity. Click to see full details | |
| Caparzo, Vigna La Casa | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 91 | Winemaker Massimo Bracalente says that Caparzo’s holdings in Montosoli were spared botrytis in 2018. Situated on well-draining Galestro soil, its south- to southeast-facing plots are largely protected from late season mists. Harvested between 24 and 25 September, La Casa demonstrates considerable ripeness for the vintage without tipping the balance. It leads with mature aromas of coffee, cherry compote and sweet tobacco. Luxurious, supple fruit flavours absorb oak nuances of nutmeg and vanilla, and pad out chocolatey, chewy tannins. Full and flattering, this has easy-going appeal. Click to see full details | |
| Casanova di Neri, Etichetta Bianca | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 91 | Celebrating its 40th anniversary with this 2018 release, Casanova di Neri’s ‘Etichetta Bianca’ has been made since 1978. It blends fruit from plots in the Torrenieri area, where the estate was first established. Tasted five months after bottling, the 2018 is still emerging from its wood-ageing cocoon. Cedar and grilled meat eventually give way to wild mountain blossoms. It's angular at this stage as nervous acidity, granular tannins and polished oak wrap around sinewy fruit - it needs time to come together but shows promise on the finish, signing off with juicy cherry and enticing truffle. Click to see full details | |
| Cava d'Onice, Colombaio | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 91 | Colombaio is a single-vineyard bottling from a site just east of the town of Montalcino at an elevation of 430 metres. Aged exclusively in small French oak casks of 5 and 10hl, this is headily perfumed with wood spice and vanilla. Enthusiastically extracted, it offers chewy substance, and while currently wrapped up in its oak and tannins, there's ample pure fruit and stony intrigue underneath - plenty of tangy acidity too. Give this another year in bottle. Click to see full details | |
| Cerbaia | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 91 | With 4.5 hectares on the north-facing slope of Montosoli, Elena Pellegrini de-leafed early in the growing season to counter wet conditions. She also reduced time in wood from 36 months to 30 to allow the fresh perfume of the vintage to express itself. A bit muddled at first, the nose is lifted with violet and rose scents, joined by intense rhubarb and mulberry notes that follow through on the palate. It demonstrates appealing gusto and substance, all supported by ripe, grainy tannins. Upfront in its pleasures. Click to see full details | |
| Fattoria dei Barbi | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 91 | Despite a fully garnet hue, the nose is vibrant and floral scented with mint and tarragon. Notes of chestnut give this earthy context on the palate – a pleasant contrast to sweet tangy berries. Clean fruit is heightened by mouthwatering acidity, though the tannins are a tad dry. Spreading out over Montalcino’s southeastern flank, the Barbi estate assembles this from multiple plots of ‘middle-aged’ vines - between 12 to 25 years old. Click to see full details | |
| Fattoria dei Barbi, Vigna del Fiore | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 91 | Vigna del Fiore hails from Barbi’s oldest vineyard, with vines currently between 20 to 30 years old. After 12 months in used French oak barriques, this spends an additional two years in Slavonian oak tonneaux of 500 to 700 litres. It's more savoury than the classic Brunello, with leather, coffee and cedar currently dominating. Still slightly angular in shape, it's compact through the mid-palate, though satiating acidity and spiced black and red currants poke through. Rather assertive, exaggerated tannins stretch out on the finish, demanding another year in bottle. Click to see full details | |
| La Fiorita, Fiore di NO | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 91 | Fiore di NO is a selection from three of La Fiorita’s four vineyards; the final blend depends very much on the vintage. In 2018, the backbone came from Collosorbo in the south, backed up by Giardinello in the west and a splash of Pian Bossolino in the east. It bears an obvious family resemblance with the estate Brunello but offers slightly more drama and intricacy. From a backdrop of cherry and strawberry, nuances of allspice, brushwood and anise emerge. The generous core is well corseted with robust yet polished tannins, then juiciness on the finish. Click to see full details | |
| La Magia, Ciliegio | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 91 | La Màgia’s ‘Ciliegio’ selection focuses on the estate’s oldest plot, which is graced by a significant cherry tree. The vines are now well into their fifth decade. As usual at this wine’s early stage, the new oak influence is pronounced. Heady scents of nutmeg, cedar, clove and vanilla contrast the shy fruit suggestive of cherry. It's substantially structured with polished tannins, but I just question if there is sufficient fruit to ride this out. Merits a revisit after another year in bottle. Click to see full details | |
| Le Ragnaie | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 91 | As with 2017, Riccardo Campinoti decided not to make a separate Fornace bottling in 2018. Instead, he blended all the fruit from this warm site into his ‘classic’ Brunello along with other estate parcels throughout the zone. Immediately animated, it opens with orange peel, liquorice, cinnamon and hints of earth. Midweight without being overly lean, citrussy acidity underlies pomegranate and tart, tangy cranberry fruit. Light, lacy tannins are just a touch grainy in texture but well-resolved. Ready to drink upon release. Click to see full details | |
| Pietra | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 91 | The Ferretti family makes just 4,000 bottles of Brunello from their seven hectares. As of 2018, it spends the first year in new Slavonian oak botti of 20 to 30hl and is then racked into older casks for the remaining two years. The slender fruit of the vintage is currently engulfed by chewy wood tannins that need time to digest. Underneath, forest brush, wild berries and iron lend appeal. There's no lack of refreshing acidity, and crunchy cranberry brings this to a close. Click to see full details | |
| Podere Brizio | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 91 | Purchased by Argentine business mogul Alejandro Bulgheroni in 2012, Podere Brizio is in the southwestern area of Tavernelle. The 2018 vintage managed to harness the warmth of its microclimate – this being one of the hottest locales of Montalcino. Ripe strawberry aromas are joined by vanilla and nutmeg. The palate is fairly rounded without being heavy. It offers plush cherry offset by sweet tobacco and a salty streak. Tannins provide a firm frame. It could just do with a bit more brightness. Click to see full details | |
| Ridolfi | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 91 | With vineyards to the north of Montalcino, Ridolfi makes a midweight, fine-framed Brunello, and this latest release is very much in tune with the 2018 vintage. After a long maceration of 70 days then three years in Slavonian oak casks, the colour is fully garnet - yet the wine isn’t tired. Attractive fragrances of tobacco, cinnamon, pressed rose and tea waft from the glass. Quite finessed in structure, its powdery tannins give shape to the juicy raspberry core. Not for long ageing, but pretty now. Click to see full details | |
| San Guglielmo | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 91 | A winery to watch, San Guglielmo is located to the west of Montalcino, tucked in beside Castello Romitorio and Corte Pavone. Surrounded by forest, the 1.5ha vineyard sits between 440 and 470 metres on well draining Galestro soil. Its fresh locale is evident in the 2018, just the third vintage of Brunello to be released from this estate. Bright cherry comes across as straightforward at first but is joined leisurely by accents of stone, flint, forest brush and orange peel. Clean and succulent with an energetic flow, its understated powdery tannins provide enough to chew on for the next seven years or so. Click to see full details | |
| Sanlorenzo | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 91 | The seven-hectare Sanlorenzo estate is a rocky, high-altitude site reaching 500 metres. Flanked by forest to the north, vineyards boast a southwestern exposure, looking towards Maremma. Picked on 4 October, the 2018 sports a pretty nose of rose and snappy pepper mingling with sweet earth. Midweight and slender in build but not lacking in body, it delivers a succulent, drinkable package. Tannins cling gracefully around the edges, while lingering porcini and balsamic notes finish. Click to see full details | |
| SassodiSole | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 91 | Sassodisole’s Roberto Terzuoli waited until the beginning of October to harvest. He brought maceration times down from 35 days to 28 as berries weren’t perfectly ripe. After three years ageing in 35hl and 50hl Slavonian oak casks, the hue is evolving into garnet and there are developing aromas of wet earth and mushroom along with dark cherry. Full and sturdy rather than rich, it shows bitter roots and herbs through the mid-palate. A clean, characterful Brunello with a mineral-tinged finish. Click to see full details | |
| Scopetone | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 91 | At lofty elevations near the town of Montalcino, Scopetone totals five hectares. From the now 40-year-old vines, owners Loredana Tanganelli and Antonio Brandi carve out 7,000 bottles of Brunello annually. with forest underbrush, walnut and wet earth, this 2018 makes way for more lifted tones of pressed cherry blossom. Midweight and lightly structured, it flows effortlessly though is still tight through the core. Not an obvious wine, but it has length and balance. Click to see full details | |
| Val di Suga | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 91 | For the 2018 vintage, Val di Suga has come out with a rebranding of its labels to reflect the updated approach in the vineyard and cellar. This includes a less oxidative style of Brunello that sees less time in wood and more time in bottle. The estate’s classic Brunello is, nevertheless, still a blend of its three diverse vineyard sites within Montalcino. The smoky, autumnal nose exhibits scents of rooibos tea with touches of cranberry and rosehip. Slender in shape, it's bracing in its acidity and offers a lovely sweetness of red berry fruit and florals, while light tannins provide a dainty frame. Ready to drink. Click to see full details | |
| Armilla | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 90 | After losing 15-20% of production in 2017, Armilla is back to its 10,000-bottle production of this Brunello. Harvest occurred under sunny skies during the third week of September, after the rains of early- to mid-September. Coy to start with, this opens with diffused florals and herbs. Straightforward and unforced, it unfolds with just-ripe red berries and brackish scrub. Tannins are dry and dusty but light, though these build toward the finish and ultimately provide an elegant physique. A tangy salinity lingers. Click to see full details | |
| Castello Banfi, Vigna Marrucheto | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 90 | Banfi’s newest Brunello, as of the 2016 vintage, comes from a 10-hectare single-vineyard planted in 2009 after significant clonal and soil studies. The 2018 is a much more toned-down, restrained version of the full-throttled, heady 2017 but also has the most depth of Banfi’s trio of 2018 Brunello. It exhibits the poise and lightness of the vintage: after a reductive start, pepper, flint and dried florals add nuance to black currant fruits. Tannins are soft overall, gripping slightly on the medium finish. Click to see full details | |
| Caparzo | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 90 | Harvest took place between the middle and end of September, starting with Caparzo’s vineyards in the south moving counterclockwise to finish with those in the east. This Brunello emits clean, straightforward notes of candied cherry, liquorice and mint. It's sufficiently concentrated, with lively acidity to balance. Assertive tannins seem a bit off-kilter for this overall gentle offering, though nothing some fagioli e salsiccia wouldn’t sort out. Will drink best in its first few years following release. Click to see full details | |
| Cava d'Onice, Sensis | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 90 | Sensis is the name given to Cava d’Onice’s multi-parcel Brunello. It brings together grapes from the northeastern zone of Torrenieri with high altitude plots further south. Aromas are distinctly savoury - smoked meat and grilled herbs eventually yield to pressed florals - but it feels a bit pushed on the palate. It's substantial with sinewy muscles. Tannins are ripe but fruit seems lean by comparison. Three years of refinement in French and Slavonian oak casks. Click to see full details | |
| Gorelli | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 90 | A well-established consultant in Montalcino, Giuseppe Gorelli was previously associated with Le Potazzine and the now-defunct Due Portine Gorelli estate. He releases his first vintage of Brunello under this new label. Aromas are a bit muddled and reserved, favouring wood nuances of cedar and clove. The palate is a bit rugged at the moment as surprisingly formidable tannins engulf lean fruit, although crisp wild berries do signal promise. Time will tell if this balances out - give it another year in the bottle. Click to see full details | |
| La Fiorita | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 90 | La Fiorita is a blend of estate vineyards located in three different sectors of Montalcino with varying soils, exposures and altitudes. After fermentation in cement, it matures in French oak casks of 26 and 37hl. Vanilla and incense accent ripe strawberry and cherry scents, and soft, plump fruit fills the mouth while supple tannins give much needed shape and balance. While immediately pleasing, it tightens up on the finish and has both the body and structure for gratification over the next six to seven years. Click to see full details | |
| Le Ragnaie, Passo del Lume Spento | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 90 | The second release as a Brunello, Le Ragnaie’s Passo del Lume Spento bottling takes its name from the area. At over 600 metres, it is Montalcino’s highest point. Speaking equally of its cool microclimate and the fresh vintage, the 2018 is a bit boney and angular in shape. Aromas and flavours are herbal and alpine-like with moss, rooibos tea and bitter roots. Piercing acidity amplifies lean tannins, and it leaves the palate wanting a bit more flesh and ripeness. Click to see full details | |
| Sassetti Livio | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 90 | With vineyards on the edge of the Montosoli hill in Montalcino’s north, the Sassetti family waited until 7 Oct to harvest. Thin-skinned grapes demanded a significant selection and just a brief maceration. The resulting wine is reticent rather than flamboyant and highlights a rigid character to the vintage. Aromas evoke cranberry, brushwood and rooibos tea. An angular silhouette emphasises rugged tannins and tangy, tart acidity. Predominantly sour cherry flavours make way for subtle iron and cinnamon on the finish. Despite its rigour, this will be best in the near-term. Click to see full details | |
| Piancornello | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 90 | With 10 hectares of vineyards, Piancornello is in the far south of Montalcino, below the town of Sant’Angelo in Colle. The estate received organic certification in 2015 and has worked with consulting oenologist Maurizio Castelli since 2000. Its 2018 opens with candid, animated aromas. A floral top-note of lilac and rose gives way to balsamic herbs and brushwood - all charmingly tinged by Sangiovese wildness. Flavours of strawberry and cherry are ripe, but the fruit comes across as lean next to rugged, forced tannins. Click to see full details | |
| San Polo, Vignavecchia | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 90 | San Polo’s Vignavecchia selection comes from a steep, well-draining parcel of 30-year-old vines yielding small, thick-skinned grapes, where the warm southwestern exposure accentuates ripeness and concentration even in 2018. Aromas tended to oxidative in both bottles I tasted, with prune, soy and nutmeg at the fore. Mouthfilling and generous, it has a flattering chocolatey texture with some dry, grippy wood tannins which arise towards to the finish. Its fully mature fruit profile calls for early enjoyment. Click to see full details | |
| Scopone | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 90 | Located in the southeast of Montalcino, the small Scopone estate was recently acquired by the Minari family and the 2018 vintage is the first aged under their care. Harvested on 20 September, it's autumnal and foresty in character. Slightly muddled at first, it conjures up chestnut and cedar notes. The palate demonstrates greater focus than the nose: plush cherry is accented by smoky tea, brushwood and rosehip. Chewy yet supple tannins frame it. Matured in a combination of 5 and 25hl casks for a total production of just 4,000 bottles. Click to see full details | |
| Fanti | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 89 | In 2018, Fanti selected grapes from the warmest and oldest plots of the estate’s 40 hectares of Sangiovese. This includes le Macchiarelle, which is typically set aside for a Riserva. Still a bit unsettled at this early stage, the 2018 is nevertheless overtly perfumed. Opening notes of potpourri turn swiftly to earthy chestnut and grilled bay leaf. The palate is less forthcoming though equally disjointed. It leaves a sour cherry impression and exhibits dry, bristly tannins. Perhaps another year in bottle will help this knit together. Click to see full details | |
| Cordella | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 89 | Based in Torrenieri, the 100-hectare estate counts 8ha of Brunello. The Cordella family has been bottling wine since 2006 and as of 2012 the production is certified organic. Overtly fragrant, this leads with tobacco and smoke-tinged raspberry and cherry. Rather sizeable on the palate, concentrated berries are enveloped by sturdy tannins. Slightly exaggerated and rustic rather than elegant, it's not without its charms. Chopped mint and sage bring it to a close. Click to see full details | |
| Antinori, Pian delle Vigne | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 89 | In the area of Camigliano, stretching across the southwestern sector of Montalcino, Antinori’s Pian delle Vigne estate sits at approximately 130 metres above sea level. It's one of the region’s warmest sectors and this registered even in 2018. Aromas are in the dried, candied spectrum with prune, plum, potpourri and glazed orange peel, while robust tannins wash over tender, ripe fruit. Could do with more definition and tension. Drinking now and over the next five years. Click to see full details | |
| Tassi, Vigna Colombaiolo | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 89 | Tassi has bottled three Brunello again in 2018, with the single-vineyard Colombaiolo presenting the most vibrancy and complexity. Nevertheless, it's still relatively straightforward and suggests near-term drinking. The site is located near the town of Castelnuovo dell’Abate, in Montalcino’s southeast, and was planted in 2000. Sweet spices suffuse the nose, while plush cherry fills the palate with cinnamon nuances. The tannins are soft and yielding, though finish with a dry edge. Click to see full details | |
| Tenute Silvio Nardi | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 89 | Silvio Nardi’s ‘panoramic’ Brunello is a multi-parcel blend from the estate’s 80 hectares that cover the northwestern and southeastern sectors of Montalcino. That said, the 2018 displays winemaking style over place - and even over vintage. Heady alcohol and dried fruit characteristics of plum cake and prune are suggestive of a hot rather than cool year. New oak nuances of vanilla and nutmeg are also at the fore. The palate is quite angular still and that wood needs time to digest. I just wonder if it's a bit over-ambitious. Click to see full details | |
| Villa Le Prata | Brunello di Montalcino | 2018 | 89 | Villa Le Prata’s three hectares sit between 500 and 550 metres above sea level with a breezy southwestern exposure. Long ageing in wood is generally preferred, but in 2018 this was reduced from 42 months to just 30. Already garnet in colour, it demonstrates mature fruit laced with spice, iron and tobacco. There's a tanginess through the core, along with some grainy wood tannins and notes of coffee. It will show best in the near term. Click to see full details | |
| Castello Banfi, Poggio alle Mura Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | Unlike Poggio all'Oro, which comes from a single vineyard and is only released in superior vintages, Banfi’s Poggio alle Mura Riserva is a selection of the best bunches from several parcels, produced every year. The 2017 exhibits the heat of the summer with macerated plum, dried cherry, nutmeg and candied aromas. It's well executed on the palate, where the concentrated core of sumptuous fruit soaks up toasty wood, chewy tannins and heady alcohol. Juicy acidity keeps it all in check. Somewhat straightforward but amiable. Click to see full details | |
| Capanna, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 93 | Selected from the estate’s oldest vines on the hill of Montosoli, Capanna’s Riserva is settling in nicely after long ageing in Slavonian oak casks. It starts with appealing scents of baked earth, dried flowers and herbs. Neither tired nor overripe, the exuberant palate is richly fruited with ripe plum and prune wrapped in dusty earth, while hints of iron add intrigue. This is all shored up by chewy, muscly tannins and surprisingly lively acidity. A hearty, braised stew would work well here. Click to see full details | |
| Caparzo, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 90 | A winemaker’s selection of lots from the estate’s diverse vineyard sites, Caparzo’s Riserva is unabashedly rich, ripe and ready. Traces of scented potpourri evolve into mature leather and smoked meat nuances. The fruit-laden palate of plum and macerated cherry is ample and weighty, and dense, layered tannins add to the heft. While this doesn’t lack stuffing, it could do with some brightening respite. Click to see full details | |
| Casisano, Colombaiolo Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 90 | As of 2017, this Riserva spends its first year in second-passage French oak tonneaux to aid tannin integration and stabilisation of colour and aromas. This is followed by a further three years in larger Slavonian oak casks. With a brick-edged hue and oxidative nuances, Colombaiolo initially presents as fully mature yet youthful wood-driven aromas of cedar and spice waft atop. There is freshness on the mid-palate as concentrated acidity penetrates ripe blackberry flavours. The grippy tannins are a bit brusque and forced, and this seems to aspire more to power than elegance. Click to see full details | |
| Fattoi, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 92 | Lucia Fattoi explains that in the balmy, sun soaked reaches of southwestern Montalcino, Sangiovese naturally has a substantial backbone. As such, the family prefers long ageing in large casks rather than a shorter stint in small barrels. The resulting wine is mellowed and developing on the nose. Hints of iron poke through salted plum while dusty earth nuances provide a backdrop. On the palate the fruit is baked and mature - those powerful, sticky tannins need some time though. This large and expansive Brunello has a saline edge that will likely tend toward a meaty bouillon character as it ages. Click to see full details | |
| Fattoria dei Barbi, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | For many years, Barbi was one of the only estates - along with Biondi Santi - to produce a Brunello Riserva. While quantities are down in 2017, this is crafted, as always, from a selection of the best grapes among the estate’s oldest vineyards. It is very sweet/savoury in character: cinnamon and prune meet leather and roasted meat. Generously packed, the palate leans to brawniness. The tannins have mellowed but finish with a drying rustic edge, while its sappy acidity is a definite plus. Click to see full details | |
| La Rasina, Il DiVasco Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | A single-vineyard selection, Il DiVasco is dedicated to winemaker Marco Mantengoli’s father, Vasco, who originally planted the vines. 2017 is La Rasina’s first year with organic certification. It's intensely perfumed with dried cherries, pressed violets and cured leather, then a bold, structured and full-figured palate offering layers of dense black cherry and plum, finishing with sweet spices. There is unexpected brightness here, and for all their robustness, the tannins are supple and chocolatey in texture. This does richness and ripeness well. Click to see full details | |
| Mocali, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 90 | In the area of Tavernelle, Mocali’s 10 hectares of vineyards are surrounded by Mediterranean woodland. The Riserva is selected from the estate’s oldest vines and matures in French oak tonneaux of 400 litres. The wood is nicely integrated as the 2017 shows attractive spice atop dried cherry, prune and plum. Full and flattering, the palate layers in vanilla and sweet herbs, finishing with a peppermint lift. Smoothly textured with soft tannins, this is ready to drink. Click to see full details | |
| Patrizia Cencioni, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | Patrizia Cencioni and her daughters, Annalisa and Arianna run this property comprising 10 hectares of vineyards to the east of Montalcino. The Riserva is selected from the oldest vines, planted in 1998. Mellowed and suffused with sweet spices, the bouquet offers cinnamon, nutmeg and vanilla offset by earthy tobacco. Full-figured and robust, the large, chewy tannins are nevertheless supple rather than drying, and there's no lack of acidity. It finishes with attractive nuances of forest undergrowth. Enjoy over the next five to seven years. Click to see full details | |
| Poggio Antico, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 92 | Poggio Antico’s Riserva comes from the estate’s I Poggi vineyard which surrounds the winery. It's crafted specifically from a south-facing plateau on stony Galestro soil. The nose is a sophisticated synthesis of rich and ripe fruit, spice and earth tones as cherry compote and vanilla meet fragrant woodland. The palate is vibrant and fluent; tannins progress smoothly, hemming in plush berries and plums interspersed with forest floor. It shows promise for mid-term ageing but is really quite ready now. Ageing is in 25-hectolitre oak casks of both French and Slavonian origin. Click to see full details | |
| Roberto Cipresso, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | A consulting oenologist in Montalcino since 1987, Roberto Cipressi was one of the founding owners of La Fiorita. As of the 2013 vintage, he crafts Brunello under his own name from vineyards in the region’s south. His 2017 Riserva sports an attractive nose of potpourri, baking spice, plum and cherry compote, which is repeated on the palate with a distinct freshness. Rich, generous fruit is fastened in by robust tannins. It comes across as brawny before the finish is flooded with pretty notes of violets. Click to see full details | |
| Ridolfi, Mercatale | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 92 | Ridolfi’s Riserva is crafted from a single 32-hectolitre cask corresponding to the estate’s Mercatale vineyard. Winemaker Gianni Maccari identified it as noticeably superior to other lots both during fermentation and after 36 months of ageing. Brick-edged, the 2017 offers an intriguing sweet yet savoury nose of cinnamon, grilled sage and porcini. It is full and mouth-filling though not ponderous. A core of concentrated acidity brings welcome freshness to dried cherry flavours. The tannins are well-handled and integrated, and this manages the challenges of the vintage admirably. Click to see full details | |
| San Polino, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 94 | San Polino’s Riserva was crafted from ‘one particular boat-rocker of a vat,’ according to proprietor, Katia Nussbaum. While she could have made 4,000 bottles, she blended most of it into the Helichrysum selection, keeping just 1,000 litres for this Riserva. It's a heady mix of cinnamon, allspice, vanilla and dried fennel. The palate is plentiful, with cherry compote, sweet herbs and a chalky structure. A slight dryness of tannins is countered by the sweet, ripe core and voluminous fruit. Perhaps not perfectly balanced, but crammed with boisterous, cheerful character. Click to see full details | |
| Sesti, Phenomena Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 95 | Aromatically and texturally extraordinary, Phenomena is one of the vintage’s great triumphs. Gorgeous scents of pressed rose, orange peel and Mediterranean shrub are penetrating and inviting. Round and full, the palate exhibits the warmth of the year without violating its carefully drawn boundaries. Powdery tannins caress the palate, wrapping around spice-laced, fleshy persimmon. As tempting as it is now, there is structure and stuffing for ageing. Phenomena's 2017 label commemorates the colourful Geminid meteor shower of December 2017. Click to see full details | |
| Corte Pavone, Vigna Poggio Molino al Vento Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 90 | Corte Pavone releases its two single-vineyard Riservas in 2017. The breezy Poggio Molino al Vento sits on limestone-rich Galestro soil. Initial volatile acidity lifts aromas of violet, black cherry and coffee. This is full-sized but overall balanced in its proportions, with no lack of ripe, concentrated baked summer berries swaddled in mouth-filling, smoothly textured tannins. Tangy acidity speaks to the relative freshness of the high-altitude site, yet already-mature fruit suggests this will be at its best over the next five to seven years. Click to see full details | |
| Tenuta di Sesta, Duelecci Ovest Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 90 | Tenuta di Sesta’s Riserva always hails from estate’s Duelecci vineyard. In the torrid 2017 vintage, the Ciacci family selected the fertile iron-rich soil of its western slope for the 4,000-bottle offering. It kicks off with nutmeg and allspice, which lead to dried floral underpinnings on the palate and vanilla suffusing the finish. Concentrated acidity balances out the lush fruit, though this is not the most expressive Brunello. Tannins are soft, giving just enough support for the near-term. Click to see full details | |
| Villa Poggio Salvi, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 91 | To the west of Montalcino, Villa Poggio Salvi’s 20-hectares rise from 350 to 500 metres above sea level. The Riserva is a selection of bunches from throughout. While not tired out by long ageing in large Slavonian oak casks, aromas are definitely tertiary and savoury. Nutmeg and cinnamon-spiced cherry make way for sweet tobacco, leather and a subtle suggestion of roasted meat, finishing with a tart cranberry-like note. There is plenty of vigour and chew from exuberantly extracted tannins, and the large, generous structure currently overpowers the fruit. Click to see full details | |
| Biondi-Santi, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2016 | 97 | The last vintage harvested and vinified by the Biondi Santi family, the 2016 Riserva was subsequently blended by technical director Federico Radi under the new ownership of EPI. It is seamless but difficult to deconstruct in its youth. Eventually, the dark and earthy personality is revealed, doling out liquorice root, moss, wet soil and heather. The tannins are compact and tightly stitched but with such a suave texture of fine chalk. These yield just enough to allow inner fruit sweetness to shine through. Think red cherry and hints of tarragon; then a blood orange tang which melds effortlessly into a bright beam of racy acidity. Click to see full details | |
| Le Potazzine, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2015 | 94 | Following 2011, 2015 is just the fourth Riserva that Le Potazzine has ever bottled (the other two being 2004 and 2006). It hails from one single 30-hectolitre cask. After long ageing, the wine is currently sending a dual message: aromas and flavours say 'drink', while the structure cries 'wait'. A bouquet of leather, dried cherry and wet autumn leaves is echoed by tertiary nuances on the palate. Ample yet austere, this is substantial but not weighty; the compressed tannins are unrelenting and it finishes with flecks of irony mineral and preserved orange. Despite a rather confounding nature, it remains quite fascinating. Click to see full details | |
| Le Chiuse, Riserva | Brunello di Montalcino | 2013 | 97 | Starting with the 2010 vintage, Lorenzo Magnelli adopted a strategy to release Le Chiuse’s Riserva 10 years after the harvest, when it is ready, or at least close to its drinking window. I had a sneak preview of this wine in 2021 and it was rigidly taut. A year or so later, the tannins are still quite massive and will require another year or two in the bottle. It offers an array of developing aromas and flavours, from cinnamon and leather to cocoa, forest undergrowth and balsamic herbs. Sterner in expression than the seductive 2012, the 2013 is sinewy with no excess fat, yet there is sufficient fruit for its frame and plenty of length to match. Click to see full details | |
| Lisini, Ugolaia | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 95 | Lisini’s single-vineyard selection is its usual exotic self in 2017. It opens with a heady mix of incense, juniper, pressed lilac and lavender. There's also that polished wood nuance which I associate with the wine finishing in chestnut cask for six months. Even more dense than the estate’s annata Brunello, the hearty palate presents flavours of myrtle and currants offset by an appetising inner saline core. This boasts gusto and chew, and those sizeable tannins demand another year in the bottle but are admirably lush. Definitely one of the vintage’s successes. Click to see full details | |
| Salicutti, Teatro | Brunello di Montalcino | 2017 | 94 | One of Salicutti’s three vineyards, Teatro boasts a full southern exposure. Nevertheless, it remains relatively fresh as it reaches an altitude of 500 metres. Gorgeously fragrant, it flaunts rose, pure cherry compote and a top-note of smoke. Sweet, sumptuous fruit is ethereally weighted, and it doesn't show over-ripeness or excessive heat at all. There's an untamed wildness that recalls Tuscany’s more remote forested reaches. Powdery tannins give ample structure yet this is already accessible. While Teatro ages for 36 months in wood like Salicutti’s other two cru labels, it sees an extra year in bottle before release. Click to see full details |