After tasting more than 1,300 Burgundy 2022 en primeur samples, Charles Curtis MW has given his full verdict on the new vintage.
Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for all 212 white wines sampled for the report.
Wines are listed in score order.
Producer
Appellation
Score
Notes
Domaine des Comtes Lafon
Montrachet Grand Cru
2022
99
This wine is among the greatest whites in Burgundy in 2022 (as is often the case), with a profusion of ripe tropical fruit, nectarine and peach aromas, accents of butter, soft white blossoms and spice. The texture is rich with extract and dense, yet there is lively acidity to balance the aromas and flavours perfectly through to a dynamic finish. Fortunately, the yield of this 0.33ha plot was 6.5 barrels in 2022, although Lafon will wait several years to bring it to market. Organic.
Millemann Wines
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
2022
99
The Millemann family has taken every step to retain maximum freshness even in the torrid 2022 vintage, and has already racked wine into stainless steel to help preserve its vigour. Superb concentration of tropical and orchard fruit aromas are gently trimmed with hints of spice, fresh acacia flowers and beeswax. A marvellous tension and intensity draw the wine to a neverending finish. After pressing and settling, the must is run into a new puncheon for fermentation and ageing without sulphur (until bottling). A reference for the appellation.
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey
Montrachet Grand Cru
2022
99
WHITE WINE OF THE VINTAGE, TOP PRODUCER Pierre-Yves Colin has good reason to be delighted with the arrival to the portfolio of a tiny sliver of Montrachet from his family's holdings. The wine is superb, with aromas of ripe nectarine, Williams pear and peach, suggestions of hawthorn flowers, spice and cream. The texture is rich without being heavy, and the freshness brings exquisite balance. The grapes come from 267 vines (0.0267ha) on the Chassagne side under Dent de Chien, planted at the highest part of Montrachet to give a rewardingly mineral result. Look in six or seven years for release of the 220 bottles produced.
Bouchard Père & Fils
Montrachet Grand Cru
2022
98
The 2022 Bouchard Montrachet is slightly reserved but has an immense presence on the palate, with a ripe apple and quince fruit, hints of white flowers, chalk, and exotic tangerine peel. The wine has enormous extract but all of the freshness necessary for balance as well – this is a superb expression of finesse and power at the same time. The grapes are from the domaine's 0.89 hectares on the Puligny side; they are lightly crushed and gently pressed, and only the finest must is fermented in cask before ageing over two winters in cask (15% new). This wine is a towering achievement.
Domaine Michel Niellon
Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
2022
98
A wine of intense concentration, tension and focus, even in the warm conditions of 2022. Aroma notes of ripe apple, peach and quince, then the volume and density you'd expect from 2022, but it's well balanced by the fresh acidity that draws it to a lingering finish. Grapes from Niellon’s plot of old vines are fermented on native yeasts in 40% new cask. This wine is among the best from this vintage and will make old bones if you are so inclined.
Lamy-Caillat
Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru La Grande Montagne)
2022
98
Unlike last year, the 2022 Grande Montagne is from a single lieu-dit within the climat, Tonton Marcel, where they farm 0.14 hectares (last year, this was blended with la Romanée). The wine is almost infinitely complex, with fruit that ranges from lime peel to green apple and ripe pear. The texture is energetic and dynamic, but there is no shortage of richness; this breadth balances out the nervy acidity and draws the wine to a superb finish. Although this may begin to open in five years, wine lovers would be well-served to age it even longer for best results.
Bouchard Père & Fils
Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
2022
97
Frédéric Weber explained his parcellaire approach to Chevalier, where the house has an enormous 2.33 hectares (in addition to their La Cabotte holding): the upper terrace has a tight energy and lighter body, with a suggestion of citrus fruit 'beaux amers'. The next terrace down delivers wine with a hint of mandarin orange. The penultimate terrace gives a richer, more substantial wine with ripe apple aromas, while the lowest terrace gives the most powerful wine that almost resembles the honeyed density of Bâtard-Montrachet. The blend of them all is superb and will age for decades.
Bouchard Père & Fils, La Cabotte
Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
2022
97
The wines of Chevalier La Cabotte lie between 'regular' Chevalier and Montrachet itself in location and quality. The wine is not as open as the classic Chevalier at present, yet aromas of lemon peel, apricot and pear are present with shadings of acacia flower and honey. Rich and creamy texture: 'Much closer to Montrachet than Chevalier,' I noted on the day. The grapes come from a 0.21ha monopole up-slope from Bouchard's Montrachet holdings, consistently producing a wine that will live for decades.
Domaine Alvina Pernot
Puligny-Montrachet (1er Cru Folatières)
2022
97
Fragrant with aromas of lemon peel, white flowers, spice and a bit of smoky reduction. A winning finesse and lightness for the vintage make it particularly good. The grapes come from the 1ha Pernot family parcel, fermented in cask with all the lees and aged in mostly used casks. Stylish and elegant: a wine of remarkable precision, balance and length.
Domaine Jean Chartron
Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
2022
97
This peerless wine is the summit of the domaine wines from Chartron. It is produced from a half-hectare of vines at the northern end of the original Chevalier-Montrachet. This is the Clos des Chevaliers, right next to the vines from Domaine d'Auvenay. The aromas span a complex range from lime zest through ripe pear to nectarine and passionfruit, with exotic spice, flint, and smoke nuances. The core of the texture is a rapier-fine acidity (even in sunny '22), but there is density and weight as well. Allow seven to ten years before opening; this should drink well for 30 - 40 years from the vintage.
Domaine Paul Pillot
Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru La Romanée)
2022
97
Thierry Pillot describes his Romanée as a 'shell that closes in upon itself; there's a bit of reduction, but that doesn't trouble me'. I completely agree. It is a lovely wine with aromas of grapefruit and greengages, and a strong saline/mineral component. The texture, however, is still deep and rich, and it is almost chewy, and absolutely superb. The grapes come from 1ha of 70-year-old vines at the top of La Romanée, which delivered 2022 a wine of vibrancy and power.
Lamy-Caillat
Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru La Romanée)
2022
97
Sébastien Caillat noted that he picked La Romanée after Tonton Marcel (on 28 August), but in his view, there is more energy. The pronounced aromas range from guava and passionfruit to lime zest and pomelo, with flint, chalk, and spice accents. The grapes are grown just a bit lower on the slope than Tonton Marcel; they are crushed and firmly pressed in a vertical press before fermentation in new and used casks. The wine will be bottled unfined and unfiltered after its second winter. This monumental wine will last for decades in a proper cellar.
Lamy-Caillat
Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Les Champs-Gains)
2022
97
Compared to the rest of the climats farmed by this domaine, Champs Gains is low on the slope, at the bottom of the premier cru band. Caillat says that while it is profound and rich, it can be heavy, and one needs to pick early. In 2022, they began on 24 August and produced a wine with an expressive aroma of grapefruit and guava with notes of smoke and spice with a salty mineral underpinning. There is undoubtedly richness on the palate, but there is also a compact tension that balances the robust structure.
Lamy-Caillat
Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Caillerets)
2022
97
As with last year, the Les Caillerets shows smoky reduction aromas most clearly, but there is more here than that, with notes of ripe pear, peach and salty minerality. The grapes are from a half-hectare site planted with venerable vines that give tiny, super-concentrated grapes. The yeast struggles to ferment their rich juice, but here has produced a marvellously detailed and powerful wine that retains remarkable balance.
Louis Jadot, Les Demoiselles
Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
2022
97
The superb Jadot Chevalier Demoiselles bottling is often my favourite white in their cellar. The 2022 vintage enchants with concentrated aromas of nectarine and passionfruit with notes of linden flowers, hazelnut, and flint. The texture is compact and tightly wound with freshness, but there is no lack of substance here, and the wine lingers impressively on the finish. This wine deserves at least five years in the cellar before opening and should drink well for at least 30 years after the vintage.
Alvina Pernot
Meursault (1er Cru Perrières)
2022
96
Although the Perrières from Alvina Pernot takes some time to open, it is a massive wine: nectarine, apricot, and quince aromas open on the palate with time. There are nuances of beeswax and marzipan as the wine opens up. This wine is the most substantial of the Meursaults in the cellar. However, there is a pH of just 3.19, bringing remarkable balance. The wine is delicious, but unfortunately, there is only a single barrel, produced from grapes from Perrières Dessous — worth seeking out.
Bouchard Père & Fils
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
2022
96
The Bouchard Corton Charlemagne reflects the vintage in an impressive way—it is a powerful wine, impressively substantial, long and almost fat in the mouth. Yet there is also an elegance and finesse to the wine that brings it into dynamic equilibrium, with aromas of ripe apple, apricot and hazelnuts and accents of hawthorn and hay. The grapes come from the domaine's superb four-hectare holding at the top of the slope, where recent studies with Françoise Vannier confirm 50 – 60 cm of yellow marl and limestone pebbles above the bedrock, explaining the delightful fresh acidity even in a warm year, such as 2022.
Bouchard Père & Fils
Meursault (1er Cru Perrières)
2022
96
The notes of lemon zest, aromas of apricot and white flowers, and the salty mineral edge give complexity to this beautiful expression of Perrières. The wine is concentrated and substantial on the palate, but it has the acidity to ensure it never loses its balance. The grapes are from two parcels – one in Dessus, on the border with Puligny, the other in Dessous, touching the Clos des Perrières. The old Roman quarries bring the minerality that sets this wine apart. The grapes were picked on 1 September, the same day as the Montrachet.
Domaine Albert Grivault
Meursault (1er Cru Perrières)
2022
96
Grivault's monopole Clos des Perrières in 2022 has produced a wine of superb concentration and depth, with rich aromas of ripe apple, peach, and apricots touched with honey and a hint of reduction. The texture is lush and dense, with a finish that lingers in a sultry way on the palate. The vines are younger than the 'regular' Perrières holding. Still, the unique terroir split between sand, silt, and clay gives grapes of excellent ripeness that are pressed as whole clusters (without sulphur) and fermented in cask with minimal bâtonnage to give this nuanced, complex result.
Domaine Albert Grivault
Meursault (1er Cru Clos des Perrières)
2022
96
Grivault’s monopole has produced a wine of superb concentration and depth, with rich aromas of ripe apple, peach and apricots touched with honey and a hint of reduction. The texture is lush and dense, with a finish that lingers sultry on the palate. Split between sand, silt and clay, the unique terroir of the clos gives grapes of extraordinary ripeness, pressed as whole clusters (without sulphur) and fermented in cask with minimal batonnage to give this nuanced, complex result.
Domaine Alvina Pernot
Puligny-Montrachet (1er Cru Peux Bois)
2022
96
Peux Bois is a subdivision of Folatières near the top of the hill, just north of En La Richarde and not far from Chevalier-Montrachet. The Pernot family has 1.5 hectares in total here; Alvina has bottled five barrels under her own label in their elegant, slightly reductive style. The wine boasts evocative lemon peel, nectarine fruit and suggestions of flint and smoke. Although the texture suggests elegance and finesse, the wine is still substantial and broad, and there is excellent ageing potential here.
Domaine Bonneau du Martray
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
2022
96
After a tasting of the components of the parcel-by-parcel approach the winery takes, a representative blend leaves no doubt that this will be an epic vintage for Bonneau du Martray. It is a wine of richness and depth, with aromas and flavours ranging from citrus to ripe apple and nectarine, and complex nuances of flint, beeswax, smoke, and hay. The texture is dense but a lively acidity carries the wine to a thrillingly long finish. Ideally one would wait seven to 10 years to open this wine; it will certainly last another 30 beyond that at least.
Domaine Chanson
Corton-Vergennes Grand Cru
2022
96
This delicious white Corton has an almost Montrachet-like richness and depth of flavour, with its aromas of ripe apple, quince, cream and spice. The texture is luxurious, almost decadent, but the balanced acidity and extract carry it to an alluringly long finish. The domaine owns 0.65 hectares down the slope from Le Rognet et Corton in Ladoix that face due east; the grapes are carefully sorted, pressed as whole clusters, and fermented in cask (one-quarter new). This wine should open nicely in five years and will drink well for a further 20.
Domaine des Comtes Lafon
Meursault (1er Cru Les Charmes)
2022
96
This appealing, approachable premier cru boasts a ripe apple fruit with notes of marzipan, butter and smoke. The texture is creamy and dense, and the finish is voluptuously long. Lafon says the acidity was slightly lower than in 2020, yet the wine does not seem heavy. It is produced from 1.7 hectares of vines, mainly in Charmes Dessus, including some vines planted a century ago. The grapes are pressed as whole clusters and fermented mainly in used casks before ageing over two winters.
Domaine Dujac
Morey-St-Denis (1er Cru Monts Luisants)
2022
96
This wine is always among my favourite whites from the Côte de Nuits; 2022 is no exception. There is a lovely freshness, especially considering the vintage – even more than the Pulignys. According to Jeremey Seysses, this is consistently among the wines with the lowest pH (thus highest acidity); this year, 3.05, with an ABV of 13.2% at harvest. Ripe nectarine and apricot aromas, hawthorn flowers, mint, and a saline minerality waft from the glass. The texture is chiselled—compact, lively, fresh, yet still dense and powerful and with impressive length—superb wine; this should improve for years to come.
Domaine Faiveley
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
2022
96
The Corton-Charlemagne from Faiveley in 2022 is a wine of superb intensity, with aromas that range from ripe apricot to apple and citrus, with hints of smoke, mineral, and spice. The wine is rich and dense, with a core of lively acidity that brings everything into marvellous balance. The grapes are from three distinct parcels: a portion of their monopole Clos des Cortons, a parcel down the slope from there, and another at the top, underneath the Bois de Corton that contributes to the freshness.
Domaine Francois Carillon
Puligny-Montrachet (1er Cru Les Perrières)
2022
96
This powerful, thrilling wine has ripe green apple and pear aromas and hints of flint, smoke, and spice. A racy acidity, even from the heat of the 2022 vintage, carries the impressively dense extract to an interminable finish. The grapes are from two parcels that François Carillon farms in the centre of Puligny Perrières, north of Boillot's monopole Clos de la Mouchère. They are pressed as whole clusters and fermented in cask (15% new), where they age for a year, followed by a further year in tank.
Domaine Jean Chartron
Puligny-Montrachet (1er Cru Caillerets)
2022
96
The 2022 Clos du Cailleret is a magnificent wine, showing notes of ripe pear and nectarines with a citrus edge and notes of hazelnut and fresh hay. There is a suggestion of saline minerality, although it is less pronounced than in the Folatières. The texture is powerful, with abundant extract yet enough acidity to bring it into vibrant balance to deliver a thrilling wine that makes an argument for Caillerets as among the greatest of the Puligny premier crus. According to Anne-Laure Chartron, 'Folatières is to Bâtard what Cailleret is to Chevalier'.
Domaine Joseph Drouhin
Montrachet Grand Cru
2022
96
Drouhin's Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche is always a classic expression of Montrachet, and often among the best 'bargains' from this site. The 2022 has exotic aromas of ripe peach, nectarine, green apple and hints of acacia flowers, star anise, and beeswax. The texture has the weight of the vineyard and a creamy opulence, yet there is enough freshness to carry the wine to a charmingly persistent finish. The grapes from the Laguiche holdings are from five parcels totalling just over two hectares, picked in three passes by the Drouhin team.
Domaine Lamy-Pillot
Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Morgeot)
2022
96
The white Morgeot from Lamy-Pillot is blended from three lieux-dits: Petit Clos, which is in the majority; Fairendes, just to the north; and Champs Jeandreau down the slope from La Boudriotte. Interestingly, it seems there is more vivacity than in the white from Clos Saint-Jean. Citrus and ripe pear dominate the aromas with a hint of spice and white flowers. The texture has more freshness and just a hint of reduction. From all indications, this is a wine that should age well.
Domaine Michel Niellon, Clos Truffière
Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Les Chaumées)
2022
96
This spectacular wine is rich with green apple, nectarine, and lemon peel aromas. The texture is creamy and dense, yet lively with vibrant acidity, bringing the wine balance and drawing it to a lovely finish. The grapes are from the half-hectare near the top of the slope on the border with St-Aubin. Some of the vines here are more than a century old. Lucie Coutoux remarks that it is a beautiful terroir, but it can be complicated to work. The soils are rocky, and without rain, maturation will cease, yet in 2022, it has produced marvellous results.
Domaine Paul Pillot
Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Caillerets)
2022
96
During my visit to Pillot, the Caillerets was still in cask, but already showing lush, lemony fruit aromas adorned with glimmers of flint, acacia flowers and smoky reduction. The texture deftly balances rapier-fine acidity and considerable density, drawing to an amazingly long finish – this is a superb wine. The grapes are from 0.40 hectares of 60-year-old vines at the top of the Caillerets slope; they are crushed, gently pressed, and fermented in large casks (10% new) before ageing.
Domaine Simon Colin, Clos St-Abdon
Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Les Chaumées)
2022
96
The Chaumées Clos Saint-Abdon is a hugely impressive wine. It is shared between Simon Colin and his father; Simon has three parcels totalling 0.35 hectares of old vines. In 2022, the wine boasts ripe nectarine and mandarin aromas with a hint of beeswax and hay. The texture is lively and bright, but the old vines also give a wine of solid density. The ultimate effect is one of understated elegance. The grapes are gently crushed and fermented on native yeasts in 350-litre casks (one-third new).
Guffens-Heynen, Juliette et les Vieilles de Chavigny
Mâconnais (Mâcon-Pierreclos)
2022
96
This riveting wine boasts aromas of Williams pear and quince with accents of lemon zest, ginger and hay. The texture is concentrated, almost tannic, and long, but balanced by an astonishing freshness. The grapes come from two parcels of low-yielding vines (one very old, one planted in 2003) at the top of the slope. The wine is not made every year, but when it is it's fermented in cask (almost 40% new) and gives one of the most distinctive wines of the Mâconnais.
Guffens-Heynen, Premiers Jus des Hautes des Vignes
Mâconnais (Pouilly-Fuissé)
2022
96
The Pouilly-Fuissé Premiers Jus des Hauts des Vignes is among the finest whites of Burgundy, with its smoky reductive notes and a salty tang, and exotic fruit aromas that roll out of the glass – mandarin and grapefruit, quince and nectarine. The cask ageing has a noticeable influence, but this is a wine built to last. It comes from low-yielding, old vines from the lieux-dits La Roche, Les Crays, and Les Croux – too high on the slope to be classed as premiers crus, yet in a hot vintage such as 2022, they deliver a swoon-worthy wine that will last for decades.
Henri Boillot
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
2022
96
Powerful, dense, and supple, the Corton Charlemagne from Boillot is an impressive wine with aromas of ripe apple, quince and apricot, floral notes, and butter. The grapes are sourced from parcels in Aloxe and Pernand; Boillot purchases the fruit as grapes, and his team does the harvest and the pressing. The result is classic Corton-Charlemagne in style that will open properly in three to five years and should age for 20 beyond that.
Lamy-Caillat
Chassagne-Montrachet
2022
96
The village-level Chassagne from Lamy-Caillat comes from one of Sébastien's favourite village vineyards – Pot Bois, located at the top of the Caillerets slope at 300 feet elevation (although this does not appear on the label). This lofty site, protected by the wood, is among the coldest in the village, according to Caillat. In 2022, it has given a wine with lemon peel and pomelo aromas and pronounced notes of acacia flower and spice. The texture is nervy and delicate, but enough substance is here to make this eminently ageable.
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
2022
96
This exquisite version of Corton Charlemagne boasts quince and grapefruit aromas adorned with hints of acacia flowers, butter, and spice. The texture is full-bodied and rich but not heavy, with a freshness and concentration that lift it to the next level. The grapes are sourced from two parcels on the hill of Corton: one site in En Charlemagne facing west (for freshness), and one in Languettes facing south (for richness). Colin opines that the Charlemagne vines are much better than 30 years ago. He tries to pick both at the same time for balance.
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey
Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
2022
96
Opulent and lush, the Bâtard from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey has an almost honeyed cast to the ripe apple and apricot fruit, with hints of acacia flowers and exotic spice. Out of cask, the oak still has significant influence, but this will fade with time. The texture is dense and concentrated – Colin relates that the level of acidity is equivalent to 2020 but that he feels the wine is more focused, reminding him of 2015 but with more freshness. 'Even if you try to make them for the future they are showing quite open right now'.
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey
Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Caillerets)
2022
96
The Caillerets is often among my favourite premier crus in this cellar, and 2022 is no exception, with its expressive lemon peel and green apple fruit aromas and hints of acacia flowers, flint and spice. The texture is lively, with great tension despite the heat of the year and enough extract to ensure a lingering finish. The grapes are from the 0.17-hectare domaine parcel at the top of the slope. The thin soil just covering the limestone gives a firm mineral underpinning to this wine that sets it apart from the other climats.
Alvina Pernot
Meursault (1er Cru Les Charmes)
2022
95
The delicious Meursault Charmes from Alvina Pernot boasts ripe apple aromas with hints of acacia flower, butter, and hazelnut. The texture is rich, but there is enough acidity to keep the wine balanced through the pleasantly lingering finish. The grapes come from an exchange with a grower who has a parcel in Charmes Dessous. The reductive handling and limited use of new oak help make this a sleek, stylish wine, even in a hot year like 2022.
Alvina Pernot
Meursault (1er Cru Porusots)
2022
95
This vibrant wine has expressive aromas of green apple, lemon peel, hawthorn flowers, and hazelnut. The texture is elegant and fine, with impressive freshness given the heat of the vintage that carries the wine to a rewardingly long finish. There are six barrels this year that come from an exchange with another vigneron. The wines are aged in older barrels with most of their lees but without stirring to maximise freshness.
Benjamin Leroux
Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
2022
95
Leroux's Bâtard is the top white in his cellar once again, with complex aromas of peach, apricot and quince with linden flowers, spice and a touch of smoke. On the palate, the wine has an impressive depth of flavour, and although it does not lack the richness of the appellation, it is also a wine of great elegance and finesse, with a harmonious and superbly long finish. The grapes are from his 0.16-hectare parcel on the Chassagne side; he is now picking these first to maintain freshness.
Bouchard Père & Fils
Puligny-Montrachet (1er Cru Les Chalumaux)
2022
95
Bouchard owns 0.40 hectares of this premier cru just across the road from Meursault Perrières — the grapes were often sold as Perrières in the past. The Bouchard parcel is planted with very old vines in well-exposed, rocky soils. In 2022, it delivered a 'Meursault-style' Puligny, with a lovely balance between the 'ripe apple/butter/hazelnut' tendencies and the flintier, more linear Puligny style. The combination is thrillingly good. The wine will open nicely in three to five years and should drink well for 20 after that.
Château de Fuissé
Mâconnais (Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Le Clos Monopole)
2022
95
This lovely Pouilly-Fuissé from the emblematic Château-Fuissé boasts ripe apple and nectarine aromas with hints of lemon peel, acacia flowers, and spice. The texture is creamy and dense but not honeyed – welcome restraint in a hot year such as 2022. The grapes are from the east-facing, 2.7-hectare monopole Clos in the center of the village. Each parcel within the clos is grown and vinified separately. All plots are barrel fermented, but the percentage of new wood varies from 20-80%. The attention to detail is evident in the masterful success of this bottling.
Domaine Albert Grivault
Meursault (1er Cru Perrières)
2022
95
Grivault's 1.55 hectares of Perrières comes from two parcels next to their monopole Clos des Perrières; there is perhaps just a touch more richness in the wines from the Clos, but this is done in a similar style, which in 2022 produced ripe notes of apricot, apple and quince, with notes of heady white flowers and a bit of reduction. The texture is slightly less dense, but the balance and equilibrium are on par. The winemaking is identical: whole cluster pressed, fermentation in primarily used casks, no sulfur until after malo, and no batonnage — the formula produced a marvellous result.
Domaine Alvina Pernot
Puligny-Montrachet (1er Cru Clos de la Garenne)
2022
95
The Clos de la Garenne is an enclave surrounded by woods — one can well imagine a rabbit warren (garenne) here. It is just down the slope from the Pernot family vines in Jacquelotte and up from Boillot's Clos de la Mouchère. In 2022, it produced a wine with abundant tension and lemony fruit with an accent of flint and flowers. Philippe Abadie mentions that good access to water helps it ripen in a hot year; the grapes are pressed as whole clusters in a vertical press and fermented with all their lees in older casks.
Domaine Alvina Pernot, Clos de la Jaquelotte
Puligny-Montrachet (1er Cru Champ-Canet)
2022
95
This interesting terroir is part of Champ Canet; the two proprietors are the Pernot family and Jacques Carillon. The old vines here (50 years on average) have delivered a wine of marvellous complexity with a bright, citrus-inflected fruit character; hints of flowers and smoke give complexity. This wine is delicate and elegant yet does not lack depth or length; it should open well with several years in the bottle and will continue to drink well for a further 20.
Domaine Alvina Pernot
Puligny-Montrachet (1er Cru Les Pucelles)
2022
95
There are four barrels this year; the grapes have come from the Pernot family holdings in this terroir just north of Bâtard and Bienvenues-Bâtard. The richness of the terroir has delivered a wine with a ripe apricot and apple aroma touched with hints of marzipan and spice. Although the texture is rich, the reductive winemaking style of the domaine has delivered an exquisite combination of freshness, breadth and depth. There is substance here, and one would do well to give this three to five years in the bottle before opening, but the wine should age well.
Domaine Comte Senard
Corton Grand Cru
2022
95
This expressive white Corton from Senard has abundant aromas of ripe pear, acacia flowers, hay, and spice. The texture is dense and creamy, but there is enough fresh acidity to bring the wine into balance and carry it to a lingering finish. The grapes are a blend of Pinot Beurot (Pinot Gris, 15%) and Chardonnay from 0.40 hectares of the monopole Clos des Meix behind the winery just outside the village of Aloxe; they are pressed as whole clusters and fermented in a combination of large and small casks (one-third new).
Domaine de la Vougeraie, Monopole
Vougeot (1er Cru Le Clos Blanc)
2022
95
The 2022 Le Clos Blanc has a seductive waxy density and a lush aroma of ripe apricots, herbs, and hawthorn flowers. The texture is warm and rich, but not heavy. The grapes are from the domaine monopole for whites in Vougeot that is just over three hectares; most of it is planted to Chardonnay, but there are bits of Binot Beurot and Pinot Blanc. The biodynamically-grown grapes are pressed as whole clusters, fermented in tank, and finished in cask (one-quarter new).
Domaine de la Vougeraie
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
2022
95
This majestic white is almost voluptuously ripe, with aromas of ripe pear, fresh hawthorn flowers, butter and a suggestion of spice. The wine is dense and powerful, but there is enough acidity to keep everything in balance. The grapes are from two parcels, one in Le Charlemagne (in Aloxe-Corton) facing south and one in En Charlemagne (in Pernand-Vergelesses) facing west. The grapes are pressed as whole clusters and fermented on native yeasts without sulfur; the wine is ageing now in cask (20% new).
Domaine de Montille
Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
2022
95
De Montille farms a parcel of 0.23 hectares in Chevalier near the northern edge of the appellation. The grapes are organically farmed and picked by hand before being slowly pressed, lightly settled, and run into casks (40% new) for fermentation and ageing. We tasted a blend of the different barrels and found a super-concentrated wine with expressive lemon peel and passionfruit aromatics, hints of flint and smoke and hazelnut. The acidity was gratifyingly fresh for the year, yet the wine did not lack substance, with an almost chewy finish, leaving a well-balanced elegance on the finish.
Domaine des Comtes Lafon
Meursault (1er Cru Bouchères)
2022
95
This wine has already been racked into tank. The style of Lafon's Bouchères differs from some of the other premier crus in his cellar – it is lighter and more delicate, with bright lemony fruit, notes of acacia flowers and salty minerals. The texture is lively with tension and finishes with finesse. The grapes are from 0.30 hectares in two parcels with an average vine age of 40 years; both are organically farmed with biodynamic methods.
Domaine des Comtes Lafon
Meursault (1er Cru Genevrières)
2022
95
As is often the case, the Genevrières is the biggest of the premier crus in Lafon's cellar, with a rich, honeyed fruit aroma with notes of ripe apples, apricots, and quince. The texture is weighty and dense, yet not lacking the freshness to bring it into balance. The grapes are from a half-hectare in Genevrières Dessus, most of it was planted eighty years ago with massale selection, but 25% replanted with clones in the 1990s. The grapes are slowly pressed as whole clusters and fermented on native yeasts in mainly used casks.
Domaine des Comtes Lafon
Meursault (1er Cru Les Gouttes d'Or)
2022
95
The dense, rich Gouttes d'Or is initially somewhat closed, but with time, ripe, buttery fruit aromas with hints of apple, apricot and honey open on the palate with hints of hazelnut and smoke. The texture is lush and powerful, but it is not yet showing its full potential. The grapes are from a 0.39-hectare parcel replanted with a combination of massale selection and clones in the '90s. The grapes are gently pressed and fermented in cask before ageing over two winters.
Domaine des Croix
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
2022
95
David Croix's Corton Charlemagne is surprisingly crisp and refreshing for the vintage; the aromas range from pear and nectarine to citrus, with a hint of fresh white flowers and a saline minerality. The texture is supple and dense enough for the appellation, but a lively acidity keeps the wine dynamic and fresh. The grapes are from a quarter-hectare at the top of the slope in Le Charlemagne are pressed as whole clusters and fermented on native yeasts without sulphur before bottling. This wine has the substance to age and the freshness to open early — charming wine.
Domaine Dujac
Puligny-Montrachet (1er Cru Les Combettes)
2022
95
The old vines of the 0.62-hectare parcel that Dujac farms in Puligny have produced a wine of great intensity and concentration in 2022, with aromas of lemon peel and nectarines and a smoky, flinty character that is more typical of Puligny than it is of the nearby Meursault Charmes. The structure is linear and taught, but there is enough extract to ensure that this should age exceptionally well. For best results, give this wine three to five years in the bottle before opening.
Domaine Fabien Coche
Meursault (1er Cru Les Charmes)
2022
95
This clean, lemony wine is svelte and well-defined, with grapefruit, nectarine, and white flowers aromas. The texture is lively and fresh, but there is enough depth here to give the wine momentum and heft. The grapes are from Charmes Dessous; they are pressed as whole clusters and will age in cask for 18 months before bottling. The result belies the 'heavy' image of Charmes Dessous to the delight of wine lovers. This will be ready in two or three years, and can be aged for at least a decade.
Domaine Faiveley
Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
2022
95
Faiveley owns a third of a hectare on the Puligny side of Bâtard, directly up-slope from their vines in Bienvenues. The wine is a classic of the appellation, with ripe apple and quince aromas, hints of acacia flower, hazelnut, and spice. The texture is powerful and richer than the Bienvenues; it also has more structure and potential for ageing. The overall impression is one of density without heaviness – marvellous. This wine should open with three to five years in the bottle and drink for a further 20.
Domaine Ferret, Hors Classe
Mâconnais (Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Les Ménétrières)
2022
95
Fragrant with ripe apricot and peach aromas with a note of acacia flowers and hazelnuts, this wine has a creamy texture, rich density, and enough balanced acidity to bring everything into balance. The finish lingers luxuriously with a note of honey. The grapes are from a 0.8 hectare parcel on the border of Fuissé; they are gently pressed and run into cask (25% new) for fermentation. The wine is nine months in cask and another nine in tank before bottling.
Domaine Francois Carillon, Les Enseignières
Puligny-Montrachet
2022
95
The surprising concentration of this village-level Puligny shares a bit of the density of the grand crus—the terroir is just across the road from BIenvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet. The 2022 boasts aromas that range from lemon peel to ripe William pears with floral notes and an accent of exotic spice. The texture is rich but balanced by freshness, giving the wine elegance and a dynamic edge — Carillon farms 0.70 hectares in four parcels. The grapes are affected by millerandage and provide tiny, concentrated berries and make a wine that will drink young but has enough substance for ageing.
Domaine Francois Carillon
Puligny-Montrachet (1er Cru Les Combettes)
2022
95
The Combettes comes from 0.80 hectares near the border with Meursault. The grapes are carefully sorted before being pressed as whole clusters and fermented in cask (25% new). The result is among the richest wines in the cellar, with a dense, almost tropical character to the fruit. There is more butter and hazelnut than the incisive flintiness of the Perrières bottling, but this wine carries its weight well. With a few years in the bottle, this should open nicely and drink well for decades.
Domaine Henri Gouges
Nuits-St-Georges (1er Cru Les St-Georges)
2022
95
Le 'grand cru' de Nuits, in the estimation of Grégoire Gouges, his parcel of 1.1 hectares in Les Saint-Georges, has produced an arrestingly delicious wine, with forward raspberry and black plum fruit aromas with a floral edge and a noticeable saline edge and notes of earth. The texture is tannic but not overly so, and the finish lingers invitingly. The grapes are destemmed but left whole and fermented at a reasonably warm temperature without active extraction by submerging the cap. It ages over two winters in cask before bottling.
Domaine Jean Chartron
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
2022
95
This Corton-Charlemagne retains the stamp of Jean-Michel Chartron's winemaking and its Côte de Beaune identity, yet it is quite distinct from the wines of Puligny. The exotic aromas range from apricot and nectarine to pomelo and passionfruit. The texture is sturdy and dense, but there is enough structure to balance the richness, albeit in a different register. The grapes are from a small domaine-owned parcel supplemented with grapes exchanged with another grower nearby. This wine will open three to five years after release and should age well.
Domaine Jean Chartron
Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
2022
95
Weighty but not heavy, the Chartron Bâtard opens with ripe apple fruit aromas abundantly shaded with hints of spice, honey, and cream. The texture is dense and concentrated; some may find it a bit rich, especially after the crystalline purity of the wines further up the slope, but it will undoubtedly please true lovers of the appellation. Chartron farms 0.12 hectares of 60-year-old vines on the Chassagne side; the 2022 at present is still slightly closed, but in five years, it should begin to open and drink well for decades.
Domaine Jean Chartron
Puligny-Montrachet (1er Cru Folatières)
2021
95
The vines in this section of Folatières are sometimes called Clos des Folatières, although Chartron (once majority owners of the site) do not refer to it as such. In 2022, it has given a wine of great concentration, with an expressive fruit aroma that spans lime, pear, and passionfruit, all touched with hints of linden flowers, flint, and spice. The texture is concentrated and very rich but with such freshness that it avoids any sensation of heaviness. On the day, I wrote, 'This is definitely grand cru quality'. The grapes are from the half-hectare still owned by Chartron, planted originally in the 1960s.
Domaine Jean Chartron
Puligny-Montrachet (1er Cru Les Pucelles)
2022
95
The Clos de la Pucelle in 2022 has delivered a marvellous wine of great finesse and elegance. There is less forward lemony fruit than the Folatières but more density and richness. Discrete on the initial attack, this opens on the palate with notes of ripe pear, hazelnut and smoke. The texture is wonderfully creamy, yet there is nothing heavy about this, just an opulence that goes on seemingly forever on the palate. Give this wine a few years to open, and you will be rewarded for decades.
Domaine Jean Chartron
Montrachet Grand Cru
2022
95
Chartron's Montrachet is an eminently luxurious, almost decadent wine with ripe apple, apricot and quince aromas touched with honey, hazelnut, flowers, and spice. The texture is dense, creamy, and powerful – there is perhaps more richness but less energy than the Chevalier. The grapes are sourced from the Chassagne side of the appellation. This wine will open nicely five to seven years after the vintage and should drink well for 20 years beyond that.
Domaine Lamy-Pillot
Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Vergers)
2022
95
Lamy-Pillot farms a small 0.14-hectare slice of Vergers on the northern edge of town as the slope turns to face east. The soil is thin and rocky, and the grapes gave a wine in 2022 with more tension and snap than the Clos St-Jean just to the south. The fruit aromas are more citrus and nectarine than the buttered apples in this latter climat. The texture is silky and fresh, carrying the wine to a pleasantly lingering finish.
Domaine Lamy-Pillot, Pot Bois
Chassagne-Montrachet
2022
95
The village-level Chassagne Pot Bois from Lamy Pillot is an attractive wine with aromas of lemon peel, green apple, and a suggestion of linden flowers. The texture is fresh and crisp, relatively light in body, with enough substance to create a dynamic balance. It is interesting to compare the versions of Lamy-Pillot and Lamy-Caillat, both produced by Sébastien Caillat. The latter has slightly more smoky reductive notes and a more present salty minerality, while his work at Lamy-Pillot emphasises the purity of the fruit and floral notes. Both are delicious wines; the former is also a superb value.
Domaine Michel Mallard
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
2022
95
Michel Mallard's tiny 0.11-hectare holding in Le Charlemagne produced an irresistible wine in 2022, with pronounced aromas of ripe apricot, apple, and quince, along with shadings of floral notes and a bit of spice from the cask ageing. It is a powerful wine, yet there is enough crisp acidity to resist heaviness. The balance is marvellous through the long finish. This wine will open in three to five years to show even more complexity and should continue to improve for 20 years.
Domaine Michel Niellon
Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Les Chenevottes)
2022
95
2022 was a ripe year for Niellon's Chenevottes, with ripe apples and nectarines aromas. There are some smoky reductive notes on the nose and a suggestion of marzipan. The texture remains fresh and lively with crisp acidity and very good length. Although the 0.17 hectares of vines are near the base of the slope, the vines are in the combe and exposed slightly to the northeast, so this is customarily a reasonably cool site. This wine should open in three to five years and drink well over the next 20.
Domaine Paul Pillot
Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru La Grande Montagne)
2022
95
La Grande Montagne refers to the terraces carved into the otherwise barren land at the top of the slope high above Chassagne. Domaine Paul Pillot and Lamy-Pillot occupy the highest terrace, giving an exceptional wine in 2022 with an amazingly detailed bergamot and gooseberry fruit with hints of reduction and flint. The texture is rich, yet a vibrant acidity holds everything together, driving the wine to a lingering finish. Fortunately, there is a bit more this year: 4.5 barrels instead of the single 350-litre tonneau produced last year.
Domaine Paul Pillot
Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Les Champs-Gains)
2022
95
The Champs-Gains is among the richer wines in the Pillot cellar, with notes of ripe apple and pear, a hint of butter, and suggestions of fresh almonds and flowers. The texture is noticeably richer than the Caillerets, just up the slope from Champs-Gains. There is still enough acidity to bring the wine into a dynamic balance and draw it out to a lovely finish. The grapes are from the domaine's 0.38 hectares at the base of the slope in deep clay soils.
Domaine Paul Pillot
Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Les Grandes Ruchottes)
2022
95
Lieu-dit Grandes Ruchottes is part of the larger climat Grande Montagne, but to me it always has a slightly different character with more richness and less exuberance. The fruit is somewhat richer, with notes of pear and nectarine and more hazelnut than flint and smoke. The texture is denser, with just a bit of fat, but in the most pleasant sense. The wine hews closely to the house style, thus vibrant acidity and gratifying length on the finish. This wine should open well in three to five years and will drink well for at least 20 years.
Domaine Ponsot
Morey-St-Denis (1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants)
2022
95
This singular vineyard of ancient Aligoté has once again delivered a wine of spectacular quality that is of grand cru quality, in my opinion. There are incredibly complex aromas that range from gooseberry to nectarine, ripe pear, and quince, with hints of beeswax and a saline mineral edge. The texture is amazingly fresh and lively for the vintage. Régisseur Alexandre Abel relates that the wine has not yet done its malolactic conversion and will likely be bottled without it to ensure the dynamic texture. Accessible on release, this is also an age-worthy wine that will continue to improve for decades.
Domaine Rapet
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
2022
95
The 2022 Corton-Charlemagne from Rapet is magnificent – serious, but not forbidding. The aromas range from lemon peel to passionfruit and green apple, adorned with hints of hawthorn and spice and underpinned by a firm, saline minerality. The wine is slow to open on the palate, with abundant extract, lively acidity, and an interminably long finish. The grapes are from two parcels of old vines (among some replanting), totalling three hectares. The vines span En Charlemagne (Pernand) and Le Charlemagne (Aloxe), where the Ladoix limestone breaks through the surface of the thin Pernand marls.
Domaine Simon Colin
Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru La Maltroie)
2022
95
There is a lovely concentration of apricot and quince fruit on the initial attack of Simon Colin's Chassagne Maltroie. The expressive fruit continues on the palate, and the texture is elegant and muscular at the same time. Colin farms a quarter-hectare on the upper slopes of this site near the village and not far from the Clos Saint-Jean. The grapes are gently crushed and fermented on native yeasts before ageing in cask (25% new) and bottling without filtration. This wine should open soon after release, yet it has the substance to age for 10 or 15 years.
Domaine Simon Colin
Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Vergers)
2022
95
Colin farms three parcels of Les Vergers that total 0.70 hectares. The vines are down the slope from Les Chaumées on slightly flatter land. The result is richer than either of the cuvées of Les Chaumées; it avoids heaviness, but it is almost tropical with a ripe pear and passionfruit aroma and suggestion of fresh butter that comes out on the palate. There is a well-balanced richness here and a rewardingly long finish.
Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Le Chapitre
Marsannay
2022
95
The compact marl soils here give the Chardonnay from Le Chapitre an air of reserve, but with time in the glass, there are lovely aromas of greengage plums and nectarines touched with white flowers that open on the palate. Pataille farms over two hectares in Le Chapitre, but there are only 0.30 hectares of Chardonnay from old vines planted in this east-facing site. The result is a thrilling wine—for best results, wait a few years to open and enjoy over the next decade. Despite the modest appellation, this is one of the great whites of the Côte de Nuits.
Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Clos du Roy
Bourgogne (Aligoté)
2022
95
As always, the Clos du Roy is another level. This excellent terroir has given delightful wines from Aligoté, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir, but the oldest vines (planted in 1932) are Aligoté. The aromas range from ripe apricot to nectarine and green apple, with herbal accents such as tarragon and hay. The texture shows a bit of baby fat, but there are also some savoury saline notes, lively freshness, and impressive length with an attractive, slightly bitter walnut note on the finish.
Henri Boillot, Clos de la Mouchere
Puligny-Montrachet
2022
95
Guillaume Boillot continues to work his nearly four hectares of old vines in the Clos de la Mouchère in several parcels; we tasted each section separately. The vines near the wood surrounding Clos de la Garenne have bright citrus notes with hints of flint and mineral. Those near Clavoillon have more of a ripe pear and marzipan aroma; they are less focused but have more density, elegance and depth. The combination makes a superb wine that is one of the delights of Boillot's cellar.
Lamy-Caillat
Bourgogne
2022
95
This wine is among the most exciting Bourgogne Blancs produced in the region. It may also be the most expensive, selling for more (much more) than de Vogüé's declassified Musigny used to cost. It is, however, a compelling wine, with exotic aromas of ripe apricot and quince, a smoky complexity and a savoury saline underpinning. The texture is rich, enlivened by fresh acidity, and so dense it is almost slightly chewy. The grapes are from Les Grands Corvées; they are crushed and firmly pressed in a mechanical press before fermentation on native yeast in older casks.
Michel Bouzereau
Meursault (1er Cru Perrières)
2022
95
Michel Bouzereau's superb Perrières boasts complex aromas of lemon peel, ripe apple, and nectarine fruit with hints of linden flowers, hazelnut, and smoke. The texture has a marvellous balance between substance and finesse and enough crisp acidity to carry this to a long, lush finish. The grapes are from two parcels totalling 0.46 hectares; 80% is in Dessus, and 20% is in Dessous. The stony limestone soils of this terroir bring tension and elegance that sets this wine apart.
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Les Ancegnières
Chassagne-Montrachet
2022
95
This wine from PYCM is among Burgundy's most outstanding values; oddly, it seems much of it goes to Asia, but this is worth seeking out. The 2022 has a complex nose of ripe pear, nectarine, exotic spices and a hint of smoky reduction. The texture is dense and rich — unsurprisingly, since the lieu-dit is just downslope from Bâtard-Montrachet. Colin farms 0.26 hectares in two parcels: the oldest has 80-year-old vines, while the other has been replanted. It is one of Burgundy's truly great 'village' wines.
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey
Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Les Baudines)
2022
95
This often-overlooked premier cru has delivered outstanding results in 2022, with a focused gooseberry and passionfruit aroma with hints of linden flowers and flint and an underpinning of saline minerality. The texture is lively with vibrant acidity that balances the concentrated extract and carries the wine to an impressively long finish. Savvy collectors will let this open for three to five years from the vintage before opening; it should drink well for at least 20 years.
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey
Puligny-Montrachet (1er Cru La Garenne)
2022
95
Alluring aromas of ripe apricot and nectarine shaded with white flowers and flint feature on the initial attack of this outstanding wine from Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey. The texture is elegant and lively, with marvellous acidity and enough substance to ensure a lingering finish. The grapes are from a domaine parcel of 0.14 hectares very high on the slope in thin limestone and clay soils. This substantial, dynamic wine should open in three to five years and drink well for a further 20.
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey
St-Aubin (1er Cru En Remilly)
2022
95
Dense and rich, the En Remilly from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is among his top wines from this village. He owns 0.67 hectares spread over three parcels. After carefully sorting the grapes, he crushes them lightly before pressing and fermentation in cask (30% new) with most of their lees. The result is lush and approachable, with ripe pear and apricot fruit, hints of almond and acacia, and a touch of butter and spice. The texture is creamy but not heavy; in three to five years, this should lose most of its baby fat and begin to show us outstanding things.
Albert Bichot, Château Gris, Les Terrasses
Nuits-St-Georges
2022
94
Les Terrasses is Bichot's proprietary name for their 0.67 parcel of Chardonnay atop the lieu-dit Les Crots. In this cool, steep site in a former limestone quarry, the Chardonnay is planted on individual stakes (en echalas) and worked by hand. The wine it produced has a lovely, crisp, lemony acidity, even in a hot year like 2022. The grapes are picked by hand and carefully sorted before pressing and fermentation in cask (one-third new), where the wine will age over two winters.
Albert Bichot, Domaine du Pavillon
Beaune (1er Cru Clos des Mouches)
2020
94
The 2022 Clos des Mouches from Domaine de Pavillon has a lush, almost voluptuous fruit character that runs from green apple to passionfruit and quince paste. The texture is velvety and dense, yet there is enough freshness to give this a salty mineral note at the end. The grapes are from 0.75 hectares at the top of the slope (300 metres) in soils much more suited to white than red; they are pressed as whole clusters and fermented in cask on native yeasts, mainly in used casks, to deliver this delicious wine.
Albert Bichot, Domaine du Pavillon
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
2022
94
Bichot owns a parcel of just over a hectare in the slightly reddish soils of Corton Languettes that produces this alluring Corton Charlemagne with aromas of ripe apricot, quince, and a suggestion of acacia flowers and spice. The texture is dense, almost chewy – Alain Serveau notes, 'It has almost the structure of a red'. In fact, the parcel was one planted to Pinot, but Serveau prefers the Chardonnay, which they pick early (4 September in 2022) to preserve freshness.
Albert Bichot, Domaine du Pavillon
Meursault (1er Cru Les Charmes)
2022
94
The initial attack of the Meursault Charmes from Domaine du Pavillon is rich with aromas of ripe apple and peach with hints of flowers, butter, and hazelnut. On the palate, the richness continues with a delightful depth. The wine, however, is not heavy since it is balanced by fresh acidity and an almost tannic tactile sense that makes the wine 'chewy' and helps propel it to an elegantly lingering finish. The grapes are from three parcels that total 1.17 hectares; two are in Charmes Dessus, and a small one is in Charmes Dessous.
Alvina Pernot
Meursault (1er Cru La Pièce sous le Bois)
2022
94
There is a generous ripe apple fruit with an edge of citrus to this wine, accents of fresh white flowers and marzipan and a firm saline mineral underpinning. The texture is rich, yet there is plenty of energy to carry this to a pleasantly long finish. The grapes are from one hectare of the Pernot family holdings, planted by Alvina's grandfather, Paul Pernot and replanted to Chardonnay in the 1990s. Although Blagny is not mentioned on the label, this is where the grapes are grown.
Bouchard Père & Fils
Beaune (1er Cru Clos St-Landry)
2022
94
The wine from Bouchard's Clos Saint-Landry monopole near the southern edge of the Beaune appellation is sometimes slow to open, but in 2022, there is an alluringly forward aromas of pear and hazelnut with accents of white flowers and salty minerals. The texture is broad and rich, with balanced acidity and good length. The nearly two hectares of vines have been planted to Chardonnay since time immemorial; the result is among the classic wines of the house and richly merits a bit of time in bottle before opening.
Bouchard Père & Fils
Meursault (1er Cru Genevrières)
2022
94
This classic expression of Genevrières has all the richness and buttery notes that a traditional Meursault lover will appreciate. Still, there is a complexity to the fruit aromas as well, with notes of grapefruit, passionfruit, and citrus peel. Despite the broad density on the palate, a lively acidity brings everything into balance and finishes very long on the palate. The grapes are from two parcels in Genevrières, and another in Dessous; more than a hectare of the Bouchard vines here had to be grubbed up due to issues with the 161-49 rootstock.
Bouchard Père & Fils
Meursault (1er Cru Les Porusots)
2022
94
An alluring, exotic note on the nose of the 2022 Bouchard Porusot is immediately appealing, with aromas of apricot and nectarine, a salty mineral edge, and a hint of spice. The texture has a winning elegance and finesse and none of the heaviness that can be a problem in this vintage. Instead, the rich extract and balanced acidity carry the wine to a satisfyingly long finish. This wine will be appealing on release, but with three or four years in the bottle, it should open up marvellously well.
Château de la Tour
Vin de France
2022
94
Creamy and complex, the white from Château de la Tour boasts aromas of walnut and peaches, beeswax, hay and exotic spice. The wine is made from Pinot Beurot (Pinot Gris), which, according to Edouard, has a history in the Clos. Today, however, only red wines may be produced, and this wine will be sold as Vin de France. Few people realize, however, that it is authorized to blend up to 15% white grapes (Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, or Pinot Gris) with the Pinot Noir. The texture of this fascinating wine is rich and luxurious, and the finish is long.
Domaine Albert Morot, Blanc
Beaune (1er Cru Aigrots)
2022
94
There is an admirable equilibrium to the Aigrots Blanc from Morot, with lush, sweet apple fruit and floral notes — it seems to have more density than the Savigny at this stage and enough freshness to carry the wine to a lingering finish. The grapes are pressed as whole clusters and fermented in cask (one-third new) with most of their lees. This wine should be ready to drink shortly after release and will easily age for a decade.
Domaine Alvina Pernot
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
2022
94
This charming, fresh Corton Charlemagne boasts apricot and quince aromas with notes of cream and beeswax. The texture is lively and fresh, with a balance and elegance that are very engaging. The wine is produced by an exchange of must with friends who farm in Pernand-Vergelesses; this year, there are five casks, all used, which have given us a lovely wine, more focused on elegance than power. It is not typical Corton Charlemagne because of this, perhaps, but it is a lovely example of the house style.
Domaine Alvina Pernot, En Créots
St-Aubin (1er Cru)
2022
94
The grapes for this lush St-Aubin offering were sourced from the south-facing slopes of En Créot, which lie near the village of Gamay. Pernot and her husband have crafted a luxuriously delightful wine with ripe apple and apricot fruit aromas, hints of cream and spice, and a suggestion of smoke. The texture is dense and lush, but the acidity balances the wine, and the flavours linger pleasantly on the palate. This wine is a new offering for them this year; it should open soon after release and provide years of drinking pleasure.
Domaine Belleville
Rully (1er Cru Cloux)
2022
94
This eminently drinkable Rully begins with ripe apples, hawthorn flowers and hazelnut aromas. The texture is substantial yet not at all heavy. It is a rich wine that retains admirable balance, and the extract carries it to a silky, subtle finish. The grapes come from a mid-slope parcel of 0.77 ha behind and above the village in a vineyard stretching the site's entire length. This wine will drink well on release and should hold for five years or more.
Domaine de Montille
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
2022
94
Despite its massive size and concentration, the Corton-Charlemagne from Domaine de Montille retains great elegance and finesse. There are ripe apple and quince aromas with hints of fresh white flowers, spice, and cream. The texture is dense and rich but the wine stays this side of heavy. We tasted a representative blend of several barrels; the grapes are slowly pressed and fermented with nearly all their lees in cask (35% new) to produce this intense white from the Corton Pougets lieu-dit.
Domaine des Comtes Lafon
Meursault
2022
94
The 2022 Meursault from Comtes Lafon is rich with classic ripe apple, butter, and hazelnut aromas. The texture is rich and creamy, but the wine avoids heaviness through a fine balance of acidity and extract. Half of the grapes are from the Clos de la Baronne monopole in the heart of the village; the other half is a combination of sites, including En Luraule and En La Barre, with grapes declassified from the younger vines of the premier crus. The grapes are slowly pressed as whole clusters and fermented in cask before ageing over two winters.
Domaine des Comtes Lafon
Meursault (1er Cru Porusots)
2022
94
The 2022 Porusots seemed oddly fresher and more substantial when tasted from cask. The aromas spanned citrus, apple, and peach; the texture was dense and luxurious yet enlivened by crisp acidity. The particular structure of the wine must be due to both the clay in the soil and the slight turn to the northeast of this lieu-dit. Lafon farms nearly a hectare in metayage from René Manuel, which makes him the largest proprietor here.
Domaine des Lambrays
Puligny-Montrachet (1er Cru Caillerets)
2022
94
The Domaine des Lambrays acquired 0.36 hectares of the Clos du Cailleret from Chartron in the 1990s. Along with their even smaller slice of Folatières, this is the white wine of the domaine. Jack Devauges and his team have succeeded marvellously with this bottling, boasting grapefruit and ripe nectarine aromas with hints of flint, smoke and spice. The texture deftly balances extract and fresh acidity to good effect, driving the wine to a lingering finish. Although marked by the maturation in 50% new casks, with three to five years, this will integrate seamlessly and should age well.
Domaine Faiveley
Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
2022
94
Faiveley's half-hectare of Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet was acquired in 2008 as part of the acquisition of Domaine Monnot, which was engineered by Erwan Faiveley and then-CEO Bernard Hervet. Running the length of the vineyard downslope from the ex-Monnot parcel of Bâtard, it has delivered in 2022 a wine of great elegance, with a ripe pear and marzipan fruit and abundant floral notes. The texture is rich without being heavy, and the finish lingers invitingly on the palate. This wine will open nicely in three to five years and should drink well for decades.
Domaine Ferret, Tête de Cru, Clos des Prouges
Mâconnais (Pouilly-Fuissé)
2022
94
This clos in the village of Fuissé has produced a wine of marvellous concentration in 2022, with aromas of passionfruit and pomelo and hints of hazelnut and spice. The texture is dense but not heavy; some well-integrated oak aromas carry through on the palate. The grapes are from a two-hectare parcel purchased by Jadot after they bought Ferret; it was excluded from premier cru status but tastes equivalent in quality to me.
Domaine Ferret, Tête de Cru
Mâconnais (Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Les Perrières)
2022
94
This massive Pouilly-Fuissé is restrained on the initial attack but opens up on the palate with an incredible concentration of ripe apricot and nectarine aromas touched with honey and spice. The texture is dense and rich, but there is also a fine acidity that leads to an incredible finish. The grapes come from 1.1 hectares just below the 'Clos de Jeanne' in premier cru Les Perrières; the grapes are gently pressed and fermented in cask (25% new). This wine should drink well on release and over the next decade.
Domaine Francois Carillon, Le Clos du Vieux Château
Puligny-Montrachet
2022
94
The walls are still standing in this village-level Clos of 0.78 hectares behind the winery, which is the garden of the old Château de Puligny (not to be confused with the Bourgogne-level wines that surround Etienne de Montille's different Château de Puligny). The grapes are pressed as whole clusters and fermented in mainly used casks to deliver this wine with aromas of ripe apple with floral notes, a hint of marzipan and smoky reduction. This wine is a marvellous value in village-level Puligny.
Domaine François Carillon, Le Vieux Clos
Bourgogne
2022
94
TOP VALUE Abundant ripe apple, hawthorn flowers, butter and spice aromas. Dense but not heavy, with plenty of balancing acidity. The grapes come from a half-hectare of old vines outside the Puligny village appellation area near the border with Meursault. Superb: an excellent option for a Puligny lookalike crafted with care and precision.
Domaine Génot-Boulanger, Les Nosroyes
Puligny-Montrachet
2022
94
This village-level appellation enjoys a prime position just underneath the premier crus Perrières. In 2022, the grapes delivered a charming wine with forward aromas of lemon peel, flint and flowers. The texture is fresh and lively, and there is considerable extract that draws it out to an impressive finish, particularly for a village wine. The grapes are from 1.17 hectares at the northern edge of the climat; they are crushed and firmly pressed before fermenting in cask (15% new) to produce this delicious wine.
Domaine Génot-Boulanger
Puligny-Montrachet (1er Cru Folatières)
2022
94
This wine boasts a lovely lemon peel aroma with spice, smoke, and flint nuances. The texture is firm and fresh, with a dynamic tension that carries the wine to an impressively long finish and suggests it will age well. The grapes are from 0.33 hectares in Au Chaniot, along the southern edge of Folatières next to Caillerets; they are crushed and fermented in primarily used casks to produce this wine that has the richness of the domaine's Bouchères but with more minerality and vibrant sparkle.
Domaine Jean Chartron, Vieilles Vignes
Puligny-Montrachet (1er Cru)
2022
94
The Chartron family uses only grapes from vines from 60-80 years of age across their holdings to craft this marvellous expression of the village with a lemon peel and nectarine fruit and hints of acacia flower, flint, and smoke. The texture is lively and bright, yet not lacking depth. This year the main sources are a parcel near the top of the Folatières slope by the woods and a small parcel of Blagny. This wine should open well in three to five years; you can easily drink it over the next 20.
Domaine Jean Chartron
St-Aubin (1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien)
2022
94
This delightful wine offers ripe apricot, peach and tropical fruit notes and a dense and rich texture yet enlivened by fresh acidity that carries it to an impressive finish. The grapes are from a half-hectare that the domaine owns on the slopes above Montrachet; they are gently pressed and fermented in cask (one-quarter new) to craft this delicious wine. This wine should open in two or three years and provide a further 20 years of pleasure.
Domaine Jessiaume
Santenay (1er Cru Beauregard)
2022
94
The Beauregard Blanc from Jessiaume is ripe and supple; the fruit aromas are more acacia flowers and ripe apples than lemon peel, but the wine is well-balanced and impressively long on the palate. The grapes come from the slopes above Gravières; they are slowly pressed as whole clusters and run into cask (mainly used) for fermentation and ageing for 12 months. The wine will be drinkable on release and hold for up to five years.
Domaine Lamy-Pillot
St-Aubin (1er Cru Charmois)
2022
94
The east-facing slopes bordering Chassagne have produced a wine of impressive complexity with notes of lime peel and guava and a markedly riper, denser, and longer texture than the village-level wine from Les Pucelles. Sébastien Caillat relates that although there is good vine material in both vineyards, the natural advantages of Le Charmois deliver a wine with more substance and balance. This wine should open well in three to five years in the bottle; it is perfect for mid-term cellaring.
Domaine Michel Niellon
Chassagne-Montrachet
2022
94
A new classic – this reference cuvée from Niellon is a benchmark for the appellation, with pure aromas spanning lemon peel, nectarine and green apple, with a bit of spice and a hint of hazelnut. This wine is their largest production. Grapes come from 10 parcels over more than two hectares of vines; they are gently pressed and fermented in cask (25% new). The wine should open soon after release and is suitable for mid-term ageing.
Domaine Michel Niellon
Chassagne-Montrachet (1er Cru Les Champs-Gains)
2022
94
Lucie Coutoux explained that although La Maltroie and Champgains (as they spell it) are roughly the same elevations on the band of premier crus, there is more limestone in Champgains that gives a bigger wine. In 2022, this shows ripe notes of passionfruit and lime peel with an accent of hazelnut and hay. The texture is supple and rich, almost fat, but pleasantly so. The grapes are from the domaine's parcel of 0.44 hectares at the top of the slope.
Domaine Olivier Merlin, Vieilles Vignes
Mâconnais (Pouilly-Fuissé)
2022
94
Tasting the components from the barrel convinces that the 2022 Vieilles Vignes from Olivier Merlin will be a superb wine, with aromas of lemon peel, nectarine, and green apple and hints of linden flowers, marzipan, and a solid saline mineral underpinning. The principal site is the lieu-dit Aux Murs (although it is not labelled as such) – it was formerly a quarry, and there are limestone pebbles down to 1.8 depth. The terroir yields a wine that is concentrated and powerful yet very elegant. This wine will drink well on release and over the next 10 years.
Domaine Pierre Boisson
Meursault
2022
94
This charming citrus-scented wine has nuanced shadings of hawthorn, smoke, and spice. The texture is lively and bright, with fresh acidity balancing the richness of the fruit and carrying the wine to a vibrant finish. The grapes are from several parcels totalling a quarter hectare that include some of the young vines from Perchots north of town and some from Limozin, down-slope from Genevrières; they are fermented in older casks without bâtonnage. This wine should open up with a few years in the bottle and drink well for a decade.
Domaine Pierre Boisson, Les Criots
Meursault
2022
94
As focused as a laser beam, the Meursault Criots has surprising tension for the vintage. Bright, forward aromas tend to the exotic with a suggestion of grapefruit and passionfruit and notes of hazelnut, smoke, and saline minerality. The feel on the palate is straight and fresh – there is nothing heavy about this wine. It should open up with two or three years in the bottle and drink well for 10 or 15 more.
Domaine Pierre Boisson, Les Clous
Auxey-Duresses
2022
94
The pure lemony fruit with a salty mineral undertone of this village-level Auxey from Pierre Boisson is engagingly vibrant. The 2022 has an edge of quince and an exotic floral note not present in the more linear 2021. The grapes are from the base of the south-facing slope just outside the village itself. They are crushed and firmly pressed before fermenting in older casks. Those who give this wine a year or two to open will be rewarded with more depth and complexity.
Domaine Rapet
Pernand-Vergelesses (1er Cru En Caradeux)
2022
94
En Caradeaux is on the Savigny side of the commune, and the vines are thus exposed east. In 2022, they produced a delicious wine with lime peel, green apple, minerals, and spice aromas. Dynamic tension on the palate and a pleasantly ripe character to the fruit makes the wine approachable; it should drink well reasonably early. The grapes are pressed as whole clusters and fermented on native yeasts with no sulphur before bottling. The wine is ageing now in cask (20% new).
Domaine Rapet
Pernand-Vergelesses (1er Cru Sous Frétille)
2022
94
Referred to by some as the 'Petite Charlemagne', Sous Fretille is an outlier, like the hill of Corton itself, with the same Pernand marl and underlying limestone; the south-facing slopes are premier cru. The seventy-year-old vines produced a lovely wine in 2022 with the crisp snap of citrus up front and hints of delicate white flowers and salty minerality. The texture has plenty of tension and liveliness, but richness is not lacking, and the wine lingers beautifully on the palate.
Domaine René Bouvier, Clos du Roi Blanc
Marsannay
2022
94
This racy, refreshing wine has lovely forward lemon-peel fruit aromas and a suggestion of white flowers. As it opens up on the palate, a lovely mineral line persists straight through the lingering finish. The texture is bright and fresh, and there is wonderful concentration and depth of flavour. The 0.60-hectare parcel in Chenôve is planted to mature vines in limestone pebbles over marl subsoil. The grapes are slowly pressed and fermented in cask with minimal use of sulphur.
Domaine Trapet
Marsannay
2022
94
This charming white Marsannay from Trapet is easy to love with its slightly exotic aromas of passionfruit, pomelo, and ripe apricots. The texture is waxy and dense, with a lovely chewy consistency and surprising length. The grapes come from the Grasses Têtes vineyard, where Trapet farms a parcel at the top of the slope planted with 10% Pinot Beurot mixed in with the Chardonnay. The grapes are crushed before pressing and fermented in large 25-hectolitre wooden vats. This wine will be drinkable immediately but will continue to improve with at least mid-term ageing.
Lamy-Caillat, En L'Ebeaupin
St-Aubin
2022
94
This secluded village-level vineyard is deep in the combe on the way to La Rochepot. The domaine farms almost 0.40 hectares that Sébastien Caillat planted in 2015 with massal selection vines in the steep limestone slopes above 360 metres. In 2022, the grapes delivered a wine with pomelo and passionfruit aromas and a hint of the hawthorn for which the site is named. The reduction is less pronounced this year, but the winemaking helps keep the results racy and fine. This wine should age particularly well for a village-level wine.
Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon
Mâconnais (St-Véran)
2022
94
Like a baby Côte d'Or' said my notes. This distinguished wine boasts exotic aromas of ripe apple and pear, hazelnut, and honeycomb. The texture is rich and dense but not heavy, with enough acidity to balance the extract and carry the wine to a lingering finish. The wine is made from four parcels that total 1.1 hectares spread between Davayé (Les Combes) and Prissé (La Crouze, En Bergeron and En Montchanin), which the domaine may separate in the future. The fermentation is in large older casks to safeguard the marvellous purity of the fruit.
Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, Clos du Four
Mâconnais (Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine)
2022
94
Even though it is known as the top site for Lafon's Mâcon operation, I was still surprised at how well the Clos du Four did in the torrid conditions of 2022. The wine had a bright, lemony fruit and abundant acidity to keep it vibrant, yet it had a rich, unctuous texture and continued to echo impressively on the finish. The grapes are from a 1.4 hectare site that overlooks the winery, high on the slope, facing east, pressed as whole clusters and fermented in 500- and 600-litre casks. Although it should drink well on release, it can easily cellar well.
Louis Jadot, Le Clos Blanc
Beaune (1er Cru Grèves)
2022
94
This marvellous wine has richness to spare but no lack of balance. There are aromas of ripe pear, quince and apricot and suggestions of hazelnut, smoke and spice. The texture is dense but not heavy, and the finish lingers invitingly on the palate. The grapes come from just over a hectare owned by Domaine Gagey and planted to Chardonnay; they are lightly crushed and pressed before fermentation on native yeasts in casks (one-third new).
Louis Jadot
Meursault (1er Cru Genevrières)
2022
94
Jadot's Genevrières shows abundant ripe pear and floral notes, a hint of butter, and toasted hazelnut. The texture is rich but not heavy, with balanced acidity and good length. It is noticeably more substantial than the village Meursault but has a marvellous balance and better wood integration. The grapes were gently crushed before pressing and fermented on native yeasts in cask (one-third new). It should open up with two or three years in the bottle and drink well for at least a decade.
Michel Bouzereau
Meursault (1er Cru Blagny)
2022
94
The domaine farms a half-hectare of vines in Blagny, located at nearly 400 metres in white clay and limestone soils. The terroir delivers a wine with admirable bergamot and pomelo aromas and a gentle suggestion of tarragon; the texture has more tension and less roundness than many wines in this cellar, but the overall effect is charmingly expressive and bright. This wine needs more time to open, but it should reward a few years of ageing with lovely complexity.
Michel Bouzereau
Meursault (1er Cru Genevrières)
2022
94
Bouzereau's delicious Genevrières comes from a half-hectare in Genevrières Dessous. The initial attack has abundant pink grapefruit, lemon peel, and spice aromas. The fruit continues on the palate with a marked ripeness, what the French would call sucrosité, but the wine is bone dry, with a lively acidity that highlights the complexity of the finish. The grapes are slowly pressed and fermented in cask, where the wine will age for 16 – 18 months. Drink this over the next 10 to 15 years.
Michel Bouzereau
Puligny-Montrachet (1er Cru Caillerets)
2022
94
This superb wine boasts detailed, complex aromas ranging from lime leaf to passionfruit with spice, smoke, and salty minerality accents. The texture has a vibrant tension that enlivens the wine and drives it to a lingering finish. The grapes are from 0.14 hectares below the Chevalier Montrachet belonging to the Château de Puligny; they are gently pressed and fermented in cask. The wine should be ready to drink in three to five years and will show well over two decades.
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey
St-Aubin (1er Cru Chatenière)
2022
94
The 2022 Chatenière from PYCM boasts succulent aromas of ripe apple and quince with a hint of hazelnut and a flinty edge. The texture is ripe and broad, very different from the Champelots, which is lemony and lighter. The domaine farms three parcels here on the sheltered south and west-facing slopes between Champelots and Murgers des Dents de Chien. The grapes are gently pressed as whole clusters and fermented with most of their lees in cask.
Rijckaert, L'Epinet
Mâconnais (Viré-Clessé)
2022
94
TOP VALUE Florent Rouve succeeds here with an aromatic Chardonnay of crisp citrus and nectarine aromas with something more exotically tropical. The texture is racy and mineral, the finish impressively long. Delicious on any terms, and at the price it commands [typically below €30 in France], it is ridiculously good.
Rijckaert, En Creches
Mâconnais (St-Véran)
2022
94
This bottling has long been a favourite from Florent Rouve at Vins Rijckaert. In 2022, it opens with a delicate aroma of ripe nectarine and quince, and there is a fresh, crisp acidity to keep it lively, assisted by just a hint of CO2 left at the bottling. The grapes are from the foot of the Vergisson slope in the village of Davayé, and Rouve started picking on 18 August to preserve freshness. Drink with pleasure on release.
Verget, Lieu Secret
Mâconnais (Mâcon-Pierreclos)
2022
94
Jean-Marie Guffens originally created this superb cuvée of Mâcon-Pierreclos for Steven Browett of Farr Vintners. It comes from three parcels of En Crazy that touch the Domaine Guffens-Heynen holdings in Le Chavigne. The aromas are exotic, with peach, quince, acacia flowers and spice notes. The texture is substantial, almost tannic, and gives the sensation that French winemakers call 'mâche' – 'chewy'. The grapes are picked in three passes to ensure absolute ripeness, then fermented in cask (25% new) and aged to get this result.
Anne Gros, Cuvée Marine
Bourgogne (Hautes Côtes de Nuits)
2022
93
The attractive green apple and lemon peel fruit aromas of the white Hautes-Côtes are complemented by notes of linden flowers and underpinned with a salty mineral note. The texture is lively and fresh, with light body and crisp acidity but enough substance to linger pleasantly on the palate. The grapes from this hectare of vines above Nuits in Concœur were picked very late – 17 September, yet they still have marvellous tension.
Bouchard Père & Fils, Beaune du Château Blanc
Beaune (1er Cru)
2022
93
The golden-hued Beaune du Château white from 2022 surprises on the initial attack with lemon peel and grapefruit aromas; with time, warmer notes of apricot and quince develop, along with some notes of smoky reduction. The texture is rich yet still vibrant. The grapes are from 10 hectares of vines spread over five lieux-dits: Aigrots, Tuvilains, Les Teurons, Sur Les Grèves, and Les Sizies; they are pressed as whole clusters and hardly settled before being run into cask for fermentation on native yeasts. Picking began for this white on 29 August to preserve freshness.
Bouchard Père & Fils, Les Clous
Meursault
2022
93
There is a lovely freshness to Bouchard's Meursault Les Clous 2022 that brings a marvellous balance and length to the wine. The initial attack boasts aromas of citrus and apricot, acacia flowers and a saline minerality. There is richness as well, with notes of marzipan as the wine opens up on the palate. The grapes are from a parcel of over eight hectares that average 300 metres elevation, planted in stony marl soils that hold enough water to avoid stress in the summer's heat.
Deux Roches, La Côte Rôtie
La Côte Rôtie
2022
93
The explosively ripe style of this wine will delight lovers of rich Mâconnais wines, yet it never loses its balance and becomes heavy. The ripe apple, apricot and quince aromas are balanced by enough crisp acidity to lead it to a lingering finish. The wine comes from a steep site (40% gradient) at the base of the Vergisson rock in the village of Davayé. The vines face south but are right under the rock and thus sheltered from the hottest sun, making this a perfect option with food.
Deux Roches
Mâconnais (Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Les Crays)
2022
93
This lovely Pouilly-Fuissé has a pitch-perfect balance between tension and the ripe, luscious character typical of the region. The wine boasts aromas of ripe apple, acacia blossoms, spice and butter, while the texture displays rich, almost sweet fruit, yet there is enough vibrant acidity to balance it out. The grapes are from a south-facing site at the base of the slope in Vergisson under Sous la Roche; the domaine is the proprietor of one hectare, representing more than 10% of the total for the appellation.
Domaine A & P de Villaine
Bouzeron
2022
93
TOP VALUE This reference Aligoté is riper in 2022 than it often is and lacks the bright acidity typical in cooler years such as 2021. However, it provides a moreish choice for refreshing current drinking, with alluring aromas of ripe green apple, apricot and nectarines. The grapes are from old massal-selection vines, hand-harvested and fermented in large oak uprights. A modern classic. Organic.
Domaine Albert Grivault, Clos de Murger
Meursault
2022
93
The 2022 Clos de Murger is done in classic Meursault style with more weight than the Bourgogne from the same site, ripe apple fruit with hints of butter and hazelnut, and a lovely density. However, there is nothing overdone — the wine retains a balancing acidity, the use of new casks is very judicious (less than 10%), and the reductive handling (no batonnage) delivers a wine of elegance and finesse. The grapes are from the 2.58 hectares of vines in the village behind the family house.
Domaine Albert Morot, Blanc, Monopole
Savigny-lès-Beaune (1er Cru La Bataillère)
2022
93
The pretty apricot and quince aromas with a saline mineral edge of this charming wine lead to a rich but balanced texture, with a round, approachable feel and enough acidity to carry the wine with elegance. The grapes are from youthful vines from the 0.67-hectare parcel replanted ten years ago to Chardonnay; they are pressed as whole clusters and fermented on native yeasts in cask (30% new). This wine will be drinkable on release and suited to mid-term ageing.
Domaine Camille et Guillaume Boillot, Les Clous
Meursault
2022
93
The wines of Domaine Camille et Guillaume Boillot are distinct from those Guillaume makes for Domaine Henri Boillot. The high-elevation terroir of Les Clous here accents the bright, lemony fruit with mineral undercurrent and floral notes. The texture is lively and somewhat reductive, but the tension and length mean this is a village-level wine with substance. It will show best with a couple of years of age and should stand up to mid-term ageing.
Domaine Chanson
Beaune (1er Cru Clos des Mouches)
2022
93
Chanson's white Clos des Mouches boasts an attractive ripe apple fruit aroma and hints of acacia, butter, and spice. Despite the heat of the year, there is no over-ripeness, and although the texture is creamy and rich, there is enough freshness to carry this to a pleasantly lingering finish. The grapes are from two hectares of Chanson's holdings in the Clos des Mouches, pressed as whole clusters and fermented on native yeasts with most of their lees. The result is a delight that excels in finesse but does not lack the substance to age for at least a decade.
Domaine Chanson
Savigny-lès-Beaune (1er Cru Dominode)
2022
93
There is an appealing, expressive, ripe cherry aroma with hints of peony, menthol, and earth. The texture is remarkably fresh and lively; the tannins are supple but support the fruit well. The grapes come from two hectares at mid-slope. The oldest plantation was from 1951, and another part was replanted in the 1990s. The young vine fruit is destemmed (about 30% of the total); the old vines are fermented as whole clusters to deliver this delicious result, ageing now in cask (one-quarter new).
Domaine Comte Senard
Aloxe-Corton
2022
93
This lovely version of Pinot Gris has impressive depth, with aromas of quince, apricot, and grapefruit, and a texture that manages to be dense and lively at once. There is a lovely richness, yet a fresh acidity brings everything into balance. This wine is exotic in the world of Burgundy, but it retains its identity all the same. Although this is 'only' a village-level wine, it has the substance to age, and my experience with older vintages suggests the 2022 would be great in a decade or more.
Domaine de la Commaraine
St-Aubin (1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien)
2022
93
Creamy, exotic, and long, this wine boasts aromas of nectarine passionfruit and ripe pear with an edge of beeswax and spice. The texture is dense, but enough acidity keeps the wine in dynamic balance. The domaine has recently purchased a parcel of 1.57 hectares in this prime location high above Montrachet. The vineyard is not without issues, with one-third of the vines missing and the team is replanting a large swath of vines, but to judge from this result, this offering will be one to watch.
Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Desirée
Meursault
2022
93
Desirée' is the designation the Lafon domaine has used since the 19th century for their Meursault from the lieu-dit Les Pétures (also known as Les Plures) in the Santenots sector. Planted to Chardonnay, it has village-level status. Lafon presses the grapes slowly and ferments in cask with a moderate use of new wood to produce this alluring wine with ripe apricot and quince fruit and a suggestion of white flowers. The texture is rich and dense, and the finish lingers luxuriously on the palate.
Domaine des Vignes du Maynes, Les Chassagnes
Mâconnais (Mâcon-Cruzille)
2022
93
This Clos is up the slope from the main vineyard at Vignes du Maynes, and it had lain fallow since phylloxera before being replanted in 2005 with top quality massal selected vines. In 2022, it has produced a wine of incredible depth, boasting aromas of passionfruit, pomelo, and green apple. The grapes are firmly crushed and macerated for 12 hours before fermentation on native yeasts (without sulfites) in 600-litre demi-muids to produce this remarkable wine that balances complexity and great purity of fruit.
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Sous les Roches
Bourgogne (Aligoté)
2022
93
My first taste of the Aligoté Sous Les Roches from Cellier aux Moines was delightful, with aromas of gooseberry and nectarine touched with a hint of tarragon. The texture was lively and fresh, and a vibrant balance lasted through the lingering finish. The grapes are from 0.2 hectares of vines planted in 1945 at the top of Montagny in the former quarry which gives this lieu-dit its name, recently acquired by Philippe Pascal. Although this wine is a delight even today, it undoubtedly has the substance to age five years or more.
Domaine Fabien Coche
Meursault
2022
93
This wine is classic Meursault, with aromas of ripe apple, fresh butter, hazelnut and white flowers, and a texture that is supple and dense. The grapes are from 0.15 hectares in Malpoiriers and Dressoles at the base of the slope on the village's northern edge. They are pressed as whole clusters before fermentation in cask. They will age 18 months before racking and be bottled unfined and unfiltered. The wine should begin to open soon after release, and is perfectly suited to mid-term ageing.
Domaine Fichet
Monthélie
2022
93
Fichet's white Monthélie boasts a charming aroma of grapefruit and white peaches. The texture is linear, clean and lovely, with impressive freshness and an elegant balance. The grapes are from 0.10 hectares in the white marl soils of lieu-dit Sous le Cellier, facing west, which gives the wine its crisp tension. The fruit is lightly crushed and settled before fermentation on native yeasts in mainly used casks; the wine will be drinkable on release and is suited to mid-term ageing.
Domaine Joannès Violot-Guillemard, Les Meix Chavaux
Meursault
2022
93
The Meix Chavaux I appreciated last year is still a delight in this year's richer, warmer vintage. There are ripe apricot and nectarine notes with an edge of reductive, smoky notes and a firm mineral underpinning. The texture is fresh and tense, yet there is generosity as well that brings the wine into a delicate, refined balance. The grapes were gently pressed and fermented in large 500-litre casks (20% new). The wine will open reasonably quickly after release and should drink well for at least a decade.
Domaine Joannès Violot-Guillemard, La Foulotte
Hautes-Côtes de Beaune
2022
93
TOP VALUE Enchanting nectarine and apricot aromas, hints of beeswax and butter. Supple and silky, with a lovely richness but nothing heavy. The grapes are from a half-hectare just above the village of Pommard, a superb terroir for Chardonnay. Fermented and aged in large, 10% new casks. Will drink upon release and easily hold for several years afterwards. Organic.
Domaine Lamy-Pillot, Les Pucelles
St-Aubin
2022
93
Alluring aromas of nectarine, lemon peel, and green apple grace the initial attack of this delicious wine. The texture is racy and elegant, with light body and crisp acidity, yet enough substance to give the wine great finesse. The grapes are grown at 430 metres in compact soils with plenty of clay deep in the combe on the way to La Rochepot. This intense, dynamic village-level wine should open soon after release.
Domaine Merlin, Les Cras
Mâconnais (Mâcon La Roche-Vineuse)
2022
93
TOP VALUE Tasted from barrel, this complex, delicious wine boasted ripe pear, apricot and quince aromas with a pleasant floral cast. The texture is rich and dense in keeping with the sunny vintage, but is always in balance. Grapes from 0.8ha of 60-year-old vines on a modest slope at 265m, fermented in 20% new cask and aged for 18 months to deliver this stylish wine.
Domaine Michel Lafarge, Blanc
Beaune (1er Cru Clos des Aigrots)
2022
93
Just one-quarter of the Lafarge parcel in the Clos des Aigrots is planted to Chardonnay at the top of the hill near the Clos des Mouches, but it produces the top white of the cellar. In 2022, it gave a wine with aromas of green apple and lemon peel with a touch of white flowers and spice. The texture is lively and very fine, with the structure for mid-term ageing. The grapes are pressed as whole clusters and fermented with most of their lees in cask – this is the only cuvée that gets a bit of new wood.
Domaine Michel Lafarge, Raisins Dorées
Bourgogne (Aligoté)
2022
93
The Aligoté from ancient vines at Lafarge is always a delight; the 2022 vintage is near the top of the range, with marvellous concentration and a fragrant aroma of gooseberry, green apple, and tarragon. The wine has abundant fresh acidity, but at the same time, there is impressive ripeness. Lafarge picked on 17 September. After fermentation on native yeasts, half in old barrels, half in concrete, it is finishing its maturation in large neutral oak uprights. This wine will drink on release and will continue improving for a decade if one has the patience to wait.
Domaine Michel Niellon
Bourgogne
2022
93
The Bourgogne Chardonnay from Niellon shows slightly reductive green apple and lemon peel aromas and a hint of spice. The medium-weight wine has a supple texture and a silky finish. This relatively small parcel is in the lieu-dit Le Haut des Champs in front of the winery. Care is taken to preserve its lively freshness, as it is fermented half in tank and half in cask to deliver this balanced, elegant wine that will be ready to drink on release.
Domaine Paul Pillot
St-Aubin (1er Cru Charmois)
2022
93
This rich, buttery wine has an impressive depth of flavour, with notes of apricot, peach and quince and accents of hazelnut, acacia, and smoke. The texture is plump and dense, with more richness than in the Pitangerets further down the same slope. The grapes are from a 1.23-hectare parcel on the east-facing slopes bordering Chassagne, just where the slope turns into the combe. The grapes are lightly crushed before gently pressing and fermentation in cask with mainly used oak.
Domaine Paul Pillot
St-Aubin (1er Cru Les Pitangerets)
2022
93
This premier cru is located at the base of the slope, on the border with Chassagne; Thierry Pillot notes that the soil is rife with limestone pebbles. The terroir has produced a wine in 2022 with alluring tropical fruit aromas and hints of linden flowers, smoke and spice. The texture is rich and dense, but a lively acidity draws the wine to a lingering finish. The domaine farms a half-hectare here, which Pillot ferments in used casks both large and small to deliver this winning wine.
Domaine Pierre Boisson, Les Perchots
Meursault
2022
93
This delightful wine is among the liveliest of the vintage from village-level Meursault. They boast a bright lemon peel and nectarine fruit with hints of white flowers, smoke, and an undercurrent of salty minerality. The texture is clean and fresh, with the acidity carrying the wine to a lingering finish. The grapes are from the older vines in the lieu-dit Perchots, just north of En La Barre. The combination of old vines and used casks has produced a wine of great purity of fruit.
Domaine Rapet, Les Combottes
Pernand-Vergelesses
2022
93
The full name of this interesting village-level climat is Plantes de Champs et Combottes; Vincent Rapet notes that the vines are located at 350 metres elevation facing west. They have delivered a wine with a finely tuned balance between freshness and ripe fruit, with notes of grapefruit and passionfruit and a firm mineral edge. The texture is lively and fine, and the finish is long. The grapes are pressed as whole clusters and fermented in cask (30% new). This crisp, delicious wine will drink on release but is also suited for mid-term ageing.
Domaine Simon Colin
St-Aubin (1er Cru Charmois)
2022
93
Simon Colin farms 0.15 hectares of youthful vines on the east-facing slopes of Le Charmois just before Chassagne in a soil dense with limestone pebbles. The vines in 2022 delivered a wine with ripe pear fruit aromas and accents of chalk and cream. The texture is velvety and dense but far from heavy. According to Colin, he's not looking for reduction, but neither does he avoid it. The Charmois is fermented and aged in cask (20% new) with most of its lees to produce this refreshing wine that should open fairly soon after release and drink well for at least a decade.
Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Les Auvonnes au Pépé
Bourgogne (Aligoté)
2022
93
TOP VALUE Produced from a small plot west of Marsannay village in the lieu-dit En Auvone that was originally owned by Pataille’s grandfather, who planted it in the 1930s, this wine is a beautiful introduction to Pataille’s single-vineyard Aligoté range. Grapefruit and apricot fruit with structure and power on the palate, but enough pleasant, lemony brightness to bring balance. Organic.
Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, Clos de la Crochette
Mâconnais (Mâcon-Chardonnay)
2022
93
Tasted from cask, there is a lovely ripe apple and quince aroma with suggestions of white flowers, spice, and honeycomb. The texture is concentrated but not heavy, and a surprisingly fresh acidity carries the wine to a lingering finish. The grapes are from a walled clos of 2.6 hectares of south-facing old vines. Although they seemed somewhat depleted from the terrible 2021 vintage, they have produced an exemplary wine the following year.
Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, Les Maranches
Mâconnais (Mâcon-Uchizy)
2022
93
This distinctive wine has forward, ripe aromas of peach and nectarine with an almost tropical edge and notes of acacia flowers and spice. The grapes come from one parcel separated into the upper and the lower part; the east-facing vines look over the Saône. The older vines have a portion of Chardonnay Muscaté. The grapes are fermented and aged in large used oak foudres to craft this delicious wine that should be ready to drink on release and over the next five years.
Michel Bouzereau, Tessons
Meursault
2022
93
The 2022 Tessons from Michel Bouzereau is delightful, with an aromatic lemon peel and nectarine fruit with hints of acacia flowers and a salty mineral underpinning. The texture was lively and bright, with a pitch-perfect balance between freshness and density. The grapes are from a half-hectare to the east above the village; they are slowly pressed and fermented in cask, where they will age for 16 – 18 months. This wine should open with a year or two in the bottle and drink well for a decade.
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey
St-Aubin (1er Cru Les Champelots)
2022
93
The 2022 Champelots shows an attractive spice note to the ripe apricot and citrus fruit with hints of butter and white flowers. There is a pleasant richness—Colin notes that this is 'in the style of Chatenière and En Remilly'. The domaine owns 0.66 hectares here, high on the southwest-facing slope overlooking the village of Gamay. The site is always picked late, and the grapes are pressed as whole clusters before fermenting with most of their lees in cask (25% new). This wine has been racked into tank, but will be returned to barrel for another winter of ageing.
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey
Bourgogne (Aligoté)
2022
93
This expressive Aligoté has pronounced aromas of nectarine and gooseberry with accents of tarragon, fresh-cut grass and honeycomb. The texture is lively and chiselled, with fresh acidity but enough extract to give the wine real weight. The fruit has two sources: 80% is from 80-year-old vines he owns in the lieu-dit Au Bout du Monde in the Hautes-Côtes, and the balance is from Chassagne. He uses the same system as the Bourgogne Chardonnay: 350-litre casks, 10% new, no lees stirring; the wine will be bottled in February 2024.
Rijckaert, Rendez-vous de Septembre
Mâconnais (Viré-Clessé)
2022
93
This Viré-Clessé is blended from several parcels throughout the appellation grown separately but vinified together. The vines handle dry conditions well, and in 2022, they delivered a lush, honeyed wine with notes of ripe apple fruit and acacia blossom that almost seemed touched with honey. The texture is dense and impressively concentrated, and even though the acidity is balanced at best, this lingers seductively on the palate without a hint of heaviness.
Verget, Vignes de Montbrison
Mâconnais (Mâcon-Bussières)
2022
93
This delightful wine features lemon peel, nectarine, and gooseberry aromas on the initial attack, with hints of hawthorn, hay and smoke. The texture has more density than many of the Mâcons in this cellar, but a lively acidity keeps everything in balance. The grapes come from mature vines in clay and limestone soils on the edge of Bussières touching Vergisson. They are lightly crushed and firmly pressed before fermentation in cask (25% new) to produce this delicious wine.
Verget, En Tremblay
Mâconnais (Mâcon-Pierreclos)
2022
93
The aromas of the 2022 Mâcon-Pierreclos En Tremblay are lush but not overly so, with aromas of ripe apple, peach and beeswax tempered by citrus notes and hints of acacia flower. The texture is dense and ripe but always lively. The grapes come from 0.4 hectares of ancient vines planted at 350metres on schist soil. Julien Desplans explains, 'You have to pick it very ripe'. He has succeeded with this delicious wine that will drink young but improve significantly with up to a decade in the cellar.
Alvina Pernot, Rue de Bois
Bourgogne (Côte d'Or)
2022
92
This Bourgogne is a delightful entry point into the Alvina Pernot range, with forward lemon peel and hawthorn aromas and a very lively and fresh texture yet balanced and elegant enough not to seem strident. The wine is made from grapes grown in one of the first vineyards that Alvina and her husband have purchased, located between the village of Puligny and the Route Nationale, fermented and aged in used casks.
Château de Chamirey, La Mission
Mercurey (1er Cru)
2022
92
This superb old vine site (initially planted in 1961) has given a delightful wine with pleasantly ripe pear and hazelnut aromas and a note of exotic spice. The texture is balanced and elegant, with enough extract and acidity to carry it to a lingering finish. Tasted blind at the BIVB, it shone at the top of the category. The grapes are slowly pressed as whole clusters and fermented and aged in used casks. This wine will open more with a year or two in the bottle and should hold for 10 beyond that.
Deux Roches, La Côte Rôtie
Mâconnais (St-Véran)
2022
92
This wine is made in an explosively ripe style that will delight lovers of rich Mâconnais wines, yet it never loses its balance or becomes heavy. Ripe apple, apricot and quince aromas with crisp acidity. From a steep site at the base of the Vergisson rock in the village of Davayé, where the vines face south but are right under the rock, thus sheltered from the hottest sun.
Deux Roches, Sur la Roche
Mâconnais (Mâcon-Vergisson)
2022
92
There is an alluring definition of flavours in this Mâcon-Vergisson from Deux Roches, with guava and gooseberry fruit aromas and hints of flint and spice. The texture is rich but balanced, and the wine lingers attractively on the palate. The grapes are from a site exposed to the northeast at a higher elevation than Pouilly-Fuissé; hence, it was not included in this latter appellation, yet the quality is manifestly present. The grapes are pressed as whole clusters and lightly settled before fermentation in used casks to produce this delicious result.
Domaine Albert Grivault, Clos de Murger
Bourgogne
2022
92
This charming introduction to the Albert Grivault range has lovely ripe apple fruit with hints of white flowers, marzipan, and honey. The texture is light but not insubstantial, and the balance between the acidity and extract is perfect. The grapes are from the part of the Clos behind the Grivault property with regional classification in the village of Meursault (the rest is village-level). They are gently pressed and fermented in used casks to produce this delightful, good-value wine.
Domaine Camille et Guillaume Boillot, La Corvée aux Moines
Bourgogne
2022
92
Camille and Guillaume Boillot source their Chardonnay for this from a half-hectare on the far side of the Route Nationale in Puligny. There are light aromas of lemon peel, green apple, and hawthorn flowers, with just a hint of reduction. The texture is lively with fresh acidity, light body, and moderate length. The grapes were fermented and aged in used casks.
Domaine Cordier, Vieilles Vignes
Mâconnais (Pouilly-Fuissé)
2022
92
This exquisite Pouilly-Fuissé was tasted blind recently and stood out for its pronounced aromas ranging from ripe apple to tropical with an edge of oak spice and hints of acacia flowers. Despite the heat of the 2022 vintage, tension and freshness are allied with a voluptuous elegance that drives the wine to a sumptuous finish. The grapes are picked by hand, pressed gently as whole clusters and run by gravity into cask for fermentation on native yeasts and ageing in cask – a delight worth seeking out.
Domaine de l'Arlot, Au Leurey
Côte de Nuits-Villages
2022
92
This intriguing wine boasts ripe nectarine and peach aromas and hints of acacia flowers and lemon peel. The texture is lively and fresh, and the surprisingly fresh acidity balances the rich fruit aromas to carry the wine to a lingering finish. The grapes are from a 0.24-hectare plot in the lieu-dit Au Leurey in Prémeaux-Prissey across the Route Nationale from the Clos de l'Arlot, including a proportion of Chardonnay Muscaté; they are gently pressed and fermented in cask (25% new) before ageing 12-15 months.
Domaine de Montille, Saint-Christophe
Meursault
2022
92
Although the final blend is not assembled, de Montille winemaker Brian Sieve and I tasted the components for the 2022 Saint-Christophe: 60% Casse-Tête and 40% Petits Charrons from further down the slope. The two bring an array of aromas from citrus to pear and marzipan. There is enough acidity to keep this fresh but also enough richness to ensure that it is a classic Meursault style. The grapes are lightly crushed before pressing and fermented in cask with only 10 – 15% new wood to deliver an honest village Meursault with charming purity of fruit.
Domaine Duroché
Bourgogne
2022
92
This charming white is that extremely rare bird – a Chardonnay produced in Gevrey-Chambertin. Whites here have only regional status, although part of the lieu-dit Grand Champs where this is grown can be village level for Pinot Noir. The wine has a ripe apple aroma with hints of chalk and white flowers. The texture is supple and round, with a pleasant finesse. The grapes are lightly crushed before pressing and the must run into primarily used casks for fermentation and ageing.
Domaine Fabien Coche
Auxey-Duresses
2022
92
The village Auxey from Fabien Coche has an alluring concentration of lemon peel and green apple fruit with hints of white flowers, butter, and spice. The fruit carries through nicely on the palate, with a creamy texture and marvellous balance. Coche farms 0.30 hectares in the lieux-dits Les Faux and Macabrée; in 2023, he will add Les Hatées, which has been replanted in Chardonnay. This wine will be ready to drink on release and suitable for cellaring for up to five years.
Domaine Michel Bouzereau
Bourgogne (Côte d'Or)
2022
92
There are delightful aromas of lemon peel and green apple on the initial attack of his entry-level Bourgogne. The texture is fresh and lively but not lacking in weight. Although it is a 'simple' Bourgogne Chardonnay, it conveys the origin of most of the fruit: 60% from the Meursault lieux-dits Sous La Velle, Les Magny and Les Belles Côtes and the balance from Champ Perrier in Puligny. The wine is gently pressed before fermenting and ageing in cask (15% new) for one year.
Domaine Pierre Boisson, Les Vaux
Bourgogne
2022
92
This enchanting Bourgogne boasts bright, ripe apricot fruit aromas with hints of hazelnut, smoke, and honeycomb. The texture is lively and fresh, but there is a phenolic weight that comes from the winemaking. The grapes are picked in the morning, crushed, and pressed firmly in a combination of mechanical and pneumatic presses and run into cask almost without settling, using nearly all the lees. The technique gives a bit of reduction and phenolic heft but makes for a wine that has the substance to age while still drinking well young.
Domaine Pierre Morey
Bourgogne (Côte d'Or)
2022
92
TOP VALUE From vines located within the village limits of Meursault, in 2022 producing a wine with delicious apple aromas and notes of acacia flowers with a bit of smoky reduction. The texture is dense and rich but not heavy. The grapes are fermented in cask but no new oak, and the wine matured for 18-24 months with occasional lees stirring. Complex and texturally satisfying. Organic.
Domaine Trouillet
Mâconnais (Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Pouilly)
2022
92
Tasted blind recently, this Pouilly-Fuissé impressed with its pronounced ripe pear and quince aromas and nuance of hawthorn flowers and a bit of honey. The silky, elegant texture was completely seductive, leading to a delightfully lingering finish. The grapes come from 0.9 hectares of 80-year-old vines in the heart of the hamlet of Pouilly, exposed to the southeast; they are gently pressed as whole clusters and fermented on native yeasts in small and large oak barrels (10% new) without SO2. Delightful now, this will open more in two or three years and will drink well for a decade beyond that at least.
Fabien Coche
Bourgogne (Aligoté)
2022
92
TOP VALUE A classic example of Aligoté, redolent of grapefruit and greengages with a herbal, tarragon-scented edge. Lively, with lemony acidity and outstanding balance. Grapes are from old vines in the village of Meursault, lightly crushed and fermented on native yeasts in tank and large casks. Will drink well on release. Organic.
Maison Verget, Lieu Secret
Mâconnais (Mâcon-Pierreclos)
2022
92
TOP VALUE An entry-level wine that should not be overlooked, this has a charming lemony fruit aroma with floral notes and just a hint of reduction brought on by the vinification in stainless steel this year. The style is elegant, with a lively balance and abundant finesse. Crisp and refreshing.
Rijckaert
Mâconnais (Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Sur La Roche)
2022
92
This arresting wine makes a powerful impression with its forward notes of ripe apple, quince and apricot and hints of white flowers. The heat of the year is present in a suggestion of honey. The body is dense and packed with extract moderated by balanced acidity and some of the 'pleasant bitterness' that comes with the phenolic compounds in the grape skin, carrying the wine to a lasting finish. The grapes are from old vines of the plateau of the rock of Vergisson exposed to the southwest, gently pressed as whole clusters and fermented in large oak casks (10% new).
Verget, Terres de Pierres
Bourgogne
2022
92
This rich, exotic wine features aromas of ripe peach, apricot, and honeysuckle that lead into a lush and dense body. Winemaker Julien Desplantes notes that the grapes are from clay soils in Pierreclos and Charnay, picked very late: 'There's no botrytis, but this was picked just before'. The texture is round and smooth – quite unlike the lively, slightly reductive wines in this cellar, yet it is a pleasant change of pace.
Aline Beauné
Montagny (1er Cru Chazelle)
2022
91
The Montagny Chazelle from Aline Beauné was a standout at a recent blind tasting, with its aroma of ripe pears scented with exotic Asian spice with an edge of beeswax and flint. The complexity of the fruit continues on the palate; the texture is both silky and dense, with impressive length for the village – it is pleasantly rich but not heavy. The grapes come from a parcel of 0.80 hectares facing east. After a gentle pressing, they are fermented on native yeasts, 30% in tank, and the rest in large casks, 10% new.
Domaine Jaeger-Defaix
Rully (1er Cru Cloux)
2022
91
This distinctive wine boasts a lemon peel and nectarine fruit with notes of flint and a slight smoky reduction. The texture is concentrated and lively, with acidity to balance the extract and draw the wine to a lovely finish. The grapes are from a hectare of vines at mid-slope above the village, 40% of which is 80 years old; they are gently pressed and fermented in used casks before ageing for 18 months.
Domaine Jean & Gilles Lafouge
Auxey-Duresses
2022
91
Tasted blind at the BIVB, this white Auxey was a delight, with its light lemon-yellow colour and ripe apple, cream and hazelnut aromas. The texture was supple and silky, with enough acidity and extract to carry it to an impressively long finish. The grapes are from 1.5 hectares on the border with Meursault; they are gently pressed and fermented in cask (20% new) before bottling. This wine will show well shortly after release and will hold for five years at least.
Domaine Pascal Prunier Bonheur, La Combe Bazin
St-Romain
2022
91
Tasted blind at the BIVB, the St-Romain La Combe Bazin from Prunier-Bonheur was a delight, with its light lemon-yellow colour and lemon peel and green apple fruit aromas with a bit of oak spice. The texture features vibrant, racy acidity and light body, but enough extract to carry this to a lingering finish. The grapes come from a parcel of 0.92 ha, facing west; they are fermented on native yeasts in large casks and age there a year in cask and a further six months in tank before bottling.
Maison Chanzy, Clos de la Fortune
Bouzeron
2022
91
This delightfully refreshing Bouzeron is a light lemon yellow in colour and blossoms with pleasantly ripe aromas of apricot and nectarine fruit with a herbal edge. There is a rewarding intensity and depth of flavour on the palate. The acidity is balanced but sufficient to carry the wine to a satisfying conclusion. The Clos is a 2.33-hectare monopole just north of Les Clous. Although the wine is ready to drink when bottled, it has enough substance and structure to support ageing for up to five years.
Domaine Alain Gras
St-Romain
2022
90
This St-Romain is produced from almost three hectares of south-facing vines in the lieu-dit Sous le Château. The initial attack features pleasant ripe pear and lemon peel aromas with smoke, spice, and flint hints. The texture is ripe and supple, with enough acidity to carry an elegant balance. The grapes are partly destemmed before pressing and fermented in cask (20% new) before ageing for one year. The wine will be ready to drink on release.
Domaine Coste-Caumartin
St-Romain
2022
90
This charming wine sports a light lemon-yellow colour and ripe apple and pear aromas with a hint of white flowers and a flinty minerality. The texture is round and supple, but there is enough fresh acidity to balance the wine and ensure there is no heaviness. The grapes come from the Clos du Château, a monopole of 1.61 hectares exposed southeast directly under the Château at the top of the slope. This wine should be accessible shortly after release and is perfect for mid-term cellaring.
Domaine Jaeger-Defaix
Rully (1er Cru Montpalais)
2022
90
Premier cru Mont-Palais is at the top of the slope, facing southeast. It has delivered a light, delicate wine in 2022, with a lemon peel fruit aroma scented with acacia flowers and flint. The fruit is somewhat closed initially but opens on the palate, where it highlights the fresh vivacity of the wine. The grapes come from a parcel of 1.18 hectares; they are gently pressed as whole clusters and fermented in used casks before ageing for one year.
Domaine Ninot, Chaponnière
Rully
2022
90
This village-level Rully has pronounced aromas of lemon peel and nectarine along with notes of well-integrated oak spice that give the nose some interest. The texture is lively and fresh, with crisp acidity and a silky feel that draw the wine to a lingering finish. The grapes are from the lieu-dit Chaponnière; they are pressed gently as whole clusters and are lightly settled before fermentation on native yeasts in cask (10%), followed by a year of ageing and bottling unfiltered.
Domaine Philippe Naddef, Le Rozier
Fixin
2022
90
Light lemon yellow in colour, this wine boasts a lovely lemon peel and oyster shell nose. The texture is fresh and mineral with bright acidity but rich extract that leads to a lingering finish. The grapes come from forty-year-old vines that have been grafted over to Chardonnay in this lieu-dit just north of the village. The fruit is lightly crushed before pressing and fermented on native yeasts in cask with a healthy proportion of new wood, where it will age for a year.
Domaine Stéphane Aladame
Montagny (1er Cru Les Burnins)
2022
90
This superb example of Montagny premier cru boasts ripe pear and quince aromas and notes of exotic spice. There is real concentration here and a good balance between the wine's richness and freshness. The grapes come from a 0.28-hectare parcel of 99-year-old vines; they are pressed as whole bunches and fermented in used casks. This wine will benefit from two to three years in a bottle before opening and will easily keep for a decade.
Domaine Stéphane Aladame
Montagny (1er Cru Les Coères)
2022
90
Although Aladame's Coères is initially slightly closed on the nose, with time, there is a ripe apple fruit with floral and nutty nuances and a bit of spice from the oak. The texture is creamy and dense, and the length exceeds the norm for the appellation. The grapes are from a half-hectare parcel that looks northeast; they are pressed as whole bunches and fermented and aged in used casks. This wine will be ready to drink on release and is perfect for mid-term ageing.
Domaine Vaudoisey-Creusefond
Auxey-Duresses
2022
90
The village Auxey from Pommard-based Domaine Vaudoisey-Creusefond is an attractive wine, with its light lemon-yellow colour and aromas of ripe apple, spice, hazelnut and butter that remind the taster of nearby Meursault. The texture is rich and creamy but not lacking balance. The grapes are from several parcels totalling 0.60 hectares in the lieux-dits La Mcabrée and Les Fosses near the border with Meursault. This wine should open soon after release and is suited for mid-term ageing.
Michel Sarrazin & Fils, Clos De La Roche
Givry
2022
90
This charming wine with the confusing name is from the village of Dracy-le-Fort at the northern end of the appellation, next to the premier cru Clos Jus. It boasts prominent citrus and green apple aromas with a hint of flint from the limestone breaking the soil surface (thus the name of the climat) — the light body and balanced acidity lead to a moderately long finish. It will be ready to drink on release and over the next several years.
Vincent Lumpp, La Grande Berge
Givry (1er Cru)
2022
90
This surprisingly concentrated wine boasts pronounced aromas of ripe pear, lime peel, fresh cream and mineral. The texture is lively and refined, with abundant fresh acidity and good length. The grapes are from a one-hectare parcel planted with 80-year-old vines in clay and marl soils exposed to the southeast. They are gently pressed and fermented in cask (30% new) before ageing for one year. Wine lovers who wait two to three years will be rewarded by the additional complexity this ageing will bring.