After tasting almost 400 Chablis 2022 en primeur samples, Andy Howard MW has given his full verdict on the new vintage.
Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for the top 108 wines all with 93 points or above.
Producer
Appellation
Vintage
Score
Notes
Domaine François Raveneau
Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)
2022
97
WINE OF THE VINTAGE. TOP-QUALITY PRODUCER.Raveneau have 0.5ha in Les Clos in a plot which runs straight down the slope in the mid-levels of the climat. Great power and precision here, almost as if it were chiselled from the rock underneath the roots. Notes of pear and white peach, cut with thrilling acidity and great zesty acidity to finish. Very subtle oak. Powerful and fine. Very complex and layered in flavour. A great 2022.
Domaine William Fèvre
Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)
2022
96
Beautiful mix of richness, grace and drive. As always with Fèvre's Les Preuses, this is elegant, long-living and fine. Ultra-stylish and very mineral. From two sections of vines. One situated low down on Les Preuses next to Vincent Dauvissat's plot, on the flatter part facing south, the other on deeper soils, with both adding richness and totalling 2.5ha.
Domaine William Fèvre, Côte Bouguerots
Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)
2022
96
The very steep aspect of Côte Bouguerots is highlighted by a much greater emphasis on minerality than Fevre's Bougros. This is a grand cru is every way - so much drive on the palate with plenty of extract, concentration, salinity and length. Certain to keep very well but this is also surprisingly approachable early on. DIdier Seguier says it's likely to close down after 18-24 months but this is clearly a fine example with masses of potential.
Domaine Long-Depaquit
Chablis (Moutonne Grand Cru Monopole)
2022
96
TOP-QUALITY PRODUCER. The unofficial 'eighth Grand Cru climat', Moutonne is a very exciting wine in 2022. A very sophisticated grand cru with a complex combination of purity, lift and precision on both the nose and palate, freshened with saltiness and iodine notes to finish. Concentrated with ripe fruit character and a lovely balance between power and elegance really lifting this. Wait for several years before broaching. Tank sample. Tasted blind.
Domaine Louis Michel
Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)
2022
96
TOP-QUALITY PRODUCER.Guillaume Michel observes that Les Clos is 'never ready to drink'. A powerful, compact and fine grand cru which has loads of potential. The vines were planted in 1968, on limestone/clay soils over oyster rich marl. Density here, a touch of spice, concentrated but also light on its feet. Michel's Les Clos will spend another nine months in tank and will undoubtedly be a slow maturer. Will be very fine but will need several years to show its best.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat
Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)
2022
96
TOP-QUALITY PRODUCER. Dauvissat has two sizeable plots in Les Clos, one mid-level, the other a little higher. Pale in colour, this has plenty of sweet fruit and quite a hit of oak at the moment. With more time in the glass, zesty orange and kumquat notes emerge together with thrilling acidity. Once in bottle and given a few years ageing, this will be a thrilling example of Les Clos.
Domaine William Fèvre
Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)
2022
96
TOP-QUALITY PRODUCER. Fevre have 3.65ha of Vaulorent. Situated on the grand cru hill rather than the Fourchaume slope, the soils here are characterised by lots of Kimmeridgian marl. Much tighter and tenser than Fevre's Montée de Tonnerre with less overt minerality, but there's lots of energy here, powerful and precise and compensates with concentration and density more akin to Chablis Grand Cru. GIve this five years and it will be stunning. The Côte Bouguerots also scored 96 points.
Julien Brocard, 7 Lieux
Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)
2022
95
A fine grand cru which emphasises the finesse of Preuses, together with concentration and energy on the palate. Lots of fruit ripeness here, generous with notes of peach fruit. Great acidity. Small foudres used for ageing this grand cru, but in a very subtle way which will certainly integrate after bottling.
Domaine William Fèvre
Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)
2022
95
A stunning example, with finesse allied to power. Real tension and energy here. Will be approachable quite young, but really should be aged for over five years for the best result. Fèvre has 2.24ha within Montée de Tonnerre. Plots are located in Pied d'Aloup (facing east) with profound Kimmeridgian soils bringing freshness, Chapelot facing south on deep soil adding richness, and Côte de Brechain facing west on top of the hill with the oldest plots dating back to 1936.
Samuel Billaud
Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)
2022
95
Fantastic concentration, so precise and clean on the palate with pronounced weight of stone fruit, length of flavour and vibrant acidity. Although aged in barrel, you don't really taste the oak. From 70-year-old vines, this is a profound Les Clos for long-term ageing. Billaud owns just 8 ares in Les Clos, allowing for a total production of just one barrel; good luck in buying any.
Domaine William Fèvre
Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)
2022
95
Fevre owns 4.1ha of the 25ha total within Les Clos. Their plot is situated on the top of the hill, with 50% of the vines planted by William Fevre's father in the 1940s and 1950s. Small yield, very concentrated, with loads of density on the palate. Plenty of drive and energy but has finesse to balance out the power. White peach fruit characters, vibrant acidity and a pronounced mineral, salty finish. A very long future ahead.
Domaine Louis Michel
Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)
2022
95
Guillaume Michel notes that his Montée de Tonnerre is 100% from Chapelot. This is a south-facing, homogenous parcel from the bottom of Chapelot to the mid-level. There is complexity on the nose, weight and concentration on the palate, great acidity, all combined with the ripeness of fruit and mineral notes on the finish. Just bottled but still showing beautifully.
Domaine Nathalie et Gilles Fevre
Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)
2022
95
Nathalie, Gilles (and now daughter Julie) run this high-quality domaine in Fontenay. WIth 2.2ha of Vaulorent, this is aged for a minimum of 12 months on fine lees with 20% matured in oak. Very good weight and concentration, with bright flavours of stone fruit, combined with zesty citrus acidity and the power expected from this top site. Very pure, even though a tank sample, this has the power to age beautifully for up to a decade. Great example of Vaulorent.
La Chablisienne, Château Grenouilles
Chablis (Grenouilles Grand Cru)
2022
95
Plenty of concentration on the palate, but there is also plenty of lift and elegance. Stone fruit characters allied to citrus acidity and some forceful mineral notes on the finish add to the freshness. Very impressive example of Grenouilles with a great future ahead. Buy a case and keep for at least five years. Tank sample.
Domaine Long-Depaquit
Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)
2022
95
Quite subtle and restrained on both nose and palate. Plenty of warmth of fruit, but as yet quite restrained. Lovely, salty, zesty notes promise a lot in the future. Ripe peach fruit characters develop with a few minutes in the glass. This will be a great example of Les Clos once in bottle. Tank sample.
Domaine William Fèvre
Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)
2022
95
Small yield, very concentrated, with masses of density on the palate. Plenty of drive and energy but has finesse to balance out the power. White peach fruit characters, vibrant acidity and a pronounced mineral, salty finish. Very long future ahead. Fèvre owns 4.1ha of the 25ha total within Les Clos. Its plots situated on the top of the hill, with 50% of the vines planted by William Fèvre's father in the 1940s and 1950s.
Domaine Louis Michel
Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)
2022
95
There is complexity on the nose, weight and concentration on the palate, along with great acidity, all combined with the ripeness of fruit and mineral notes on the finish. Just bottled but still showing beautifully. Manager Guillaume Michel notes that his Montée de Tonnerre is 100% from Chapelot. This is a south-facing, homogenous parcel from the bottom of Chapelot to the mid-level.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard
Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)
2022
95
Very appealing, with a fine balance of richness and ripeness of fruit, combined with white pepper, saline minerals and plenty of freshening acidity. A very classy example.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat
Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)
2022
95
Vincent Dauvissat explained that his Les Preuses is 'the opposite' of Les Clos. Pale in colour, the emphasis here is on finesse, elegance and precision. Although not showing a lot at the moment, the undercurrent of acidity and salinity, combined with concentration on the palate, suggest this will develop beautifully over many years.
Domaine François Raveneau
Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)
2022
95
A benchmark Montée de Tonnerre and one of Ravenau's most famous wines. The domaine has 3.1ha in total, made up of a blend of 10 different plots within Chapelot and Pied d'Aloup, with vines ageing from 10-60 years. Distinct notes of crisp green apple, cool on the nose and palate with great freshness. Impressive stony, mineral characters support the concentration. A profound rendition of Montée de Tonnerre where elegance meets power. For long-term ageing.
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin
Chablis (Grenouilles Grand Cru)
2022
95
TOP-QUALITY PRODUCER. One of the most influential Chablis producers, Jean-Paul and Benoit Droîn's family have been in the region for 400 years. The estate comprises 26ha with around 0.5ha in Grenouilles. Profound and rich on both the nose and palate. A very fine Grenouilles with a great combination of acidity, concentration and ripeness of fruit. Subtle, judicious oaking. Will drink well early but will also age many years.
Domaine Louis Michel
Chablis (Grenouilles Grand Cru)
2022
95
It was in the 1960's when Louis Michel decided to move away from the use of wooden barrels and, under the management of Guillaume Michel, has taken this even further. The vines here are aged between 50-80 years, and are planted on deep brown clay soil, interspersed with pebbles. A lovely example of Grenouilles - precise, focussed and already very expressive. Direct acidity but lots of purity. Will be bottled in May 2024 after 18-plus months. A long future ahead.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat
Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)
2022
95
TOP-SCORING WINE. Dauvissat's Montée de Tonnerre comes from Bréchin, and exhibits a dramatic, forceful style of this premier cru. Fascinating to compare with Raveneaus's iteration from Chapelot/Pied d'Aloup. Ripe, rich stone fruit is balanced by notable acidity and a stony, mineral edge. Spice notes add an extra level of interest. Super-classy and with a very long future ahead.
Samuel Billaud
Chablis (1er Cru Séchet)
2022
95
PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. A special bottling for Samuel Billaud, from vines over 90 years old. A vineyard marked by a high proportion of stones and old rootstock. Billaud says his Sechet has a particular character and. although it ages as well as Montée de Tonnerre it will finish in a different place. Only matured in steel tank for 18 months on lees with one racking. Really very classy and long. A great combination of pear fruit, touch of sunny peach on the palate with abundant minerality to finish.
Domaine Laroche, Les Bouguerots
Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)
2022
95
Laroche's Les Bouguerots comes from selected vines replanted on the steep lower slopes of Grand Cru Bougros, with a foot of clay soil over the bedrock. Quite a bit of reduction on the nose which is keeping the wine a little shy at the moment. Lots of acidity, combined with concentration and depth on the palate and a long finish with real focus and drive. Promises a lot but will need quite a bit of time. A very fine grand cru in the making. Tasted blind.
Domaine Billaud-Simon
Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)
2022
95
Winemaker Olivier Bailly explained that the 2022 was the first vintage coming from Billaud-Simon's replanted plot from 2018, that has not been harvested until now, at the eastern end of Les Clos adjacent to Blanchot. 50% matured in wood but Bailly comments 'Les Clos will consume the wood easily'. Great drive - amazing for just five-year-old vines. Layers of flavour with great purity. WIll be worth following this as the vines gain additional age.
Vincent Dampt
Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)
2022
94
A lovely example of Vaillons from Vincent Dampt. Bright and floral, with very appealing notes of white flowers on the nose, combined with white peach on the palate and a distinctive, salty finish. Fine, concentrated and long. High quality.
Domaine François Raveneau
Chablis (1er Cru Butteaux)
2022
94
A profound, deep character evident on the nose. Weighty, powerful palate with oak evident in the background and a creamy texture. Notes of spice and a touch of orange box. Very crisp and fresh on the finish. This will age into a very fine premier cru. Vines on average over 50 years old.
Julien Brocard, 7 Lieux
Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)
2022
94
A very fine example of Montée de Tonnerre. Ripeness of fruit combined with vibrant acidity, it's a fine balance between the power and minerality of Montée de Tonnerre and the ripeness of this particular site. A high-quality introduction to the benefits of biodynamic winemaking.
Domaine Billaud-Simon
Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)
2022
94
Billaud-Simon always produces a super-classy Les Preuses. A more restrained, racy style of grand cru. Less wood evident here, which lets the ripeness of the fruit shine through. Very nice acidity. Lots of enjoyment and mineral notes to finish. Long and elegant. 70-year-old vines from one plot. Three barrels used in 2022, with a small proportion (13%) of new oak.
Domaine Billaud-Simon
Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)
2022
94
Billaud-Simon have plots within the three sectors of Montée de Tonnerre, with the oldest plots in Pied d'Aloup (87 years). Winemaker Olivier Bailly normally only uses tanks for this climat but this year has 6% in barrel. Very pure and crystalline on the nose and palate. Real drive and energy with just the vaguest hint of the wood which adds more to texture than flavour. A very fine example.
Domaine Louis Moreau
Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)
2022
94
Cool, fresh and very precise; love the density. Crisp acidity to balance the warmth of the vintage and the concentration on the palate. Very subtle oak. Will develop very well for many years. A fine Valmur which highlights the advantage this site has in exposition and altitude. Tank sample.
Domaine François Raveneau
Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)
2022
94
Crisp, linear and focused, this doesn’t have the out-and-out power of the producer's Les Clos, but makes up for it with finesse. A thoroughbred needing several years. Lovely white peach flavour. From a large plot on the left side of Valmur. This site gets the morning sun and direct heat in the main part of the day but remains shaded from mid-afternoon onwards.
Domaine William Fèvre
Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)
2022
94
Fèvre's Valmur plots lie over marly Kimmeridgian soils, with the emphasis here on freshness and a degree of austerity. Very dramatic, dense and concentrated on the palate, and which exudes purity and drive. A great success in 2022 and great ageing potential.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat
Chablis
2022
94
Green apple fruit with a touch of bitter pear skin adding bite. Dauvissat has four parcels with the largest opposite the premier cru of Forêts. A great 'straight' Chablis which has a super-fine texture to go along with the ripeness and lingering acidity.
Samuel Billaud, Vieilles Vignes
Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)
2022
94
Produced from vines averaging 60 years old, this shows the typical Vaillons perfume with notes of white flowers. Very good drive and crispness on the palate. Complex and long aftertaste. A top quality example of Vaillons, with the style of a real thoroughbred.
Julie Fevre
Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)
2022
94
A winning combination of the ripeness of fruit in 2022 with the acidity and mineral characters from the terroir of Les Clos. Fresh on the palate, yet there is an intriguing note of honey here which adds to the whole. Concentrated and with great purity, this will be a Les Clos to keep and enjoy over many years. Julie, daughter of Nathalie, trained in oenology at Dijon University. Tank sample.
Samuel Billaud
Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)
2022
94
Quite a deep colour. Sunny and ripe character but also very fresh and lively on the finish. A powerful, weighty grand cru with one year ageing in oak. Samuel Billaud owns two plots within Vaudesir; one located in the west and one in the east, and BIllaud highlights the contrasting styles between the two sites.
Domaine Louis Michel, Vieilles Vignes
Chablis (1er Cru Butteaux)
2022
94
Restrained and with notable concentration, this is an intense premier cru with great potential. Notes of peach fruit cut with zesty lime citrus. Very fine. From 68-year-old vines on very dense, white clay soils which are like concrete when dry, heavy when wet.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire
Chablis
2022
94
Restrained on the nose, with a brooding, savoury character on the palate. Initially a bit more subdued than the 'straight' Chablis Sainte Claire, this has the potential for future development given the concentration on show; certainly pushing premier cru quality, if not even higher. Julien Brocard explains that the vines here age up to 75 years, reaching down 25m into the soil.
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin
Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)
2022
94
Vaulorent is the opposite in style to Fourchaume for Droin, with soils only 10cm thick. This comes through on the palate with its pronounced mineral character. Shy and introverted at the moment, this is undoubtedly a fine wine which will need quite a bit of time to come round. Very crisp apple fruit flavours and a flinty finish.
Domaine Billaud-Simon
Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)
2022
94
Very pure and crystalline on both nose and palate. Real drive and energy, just the vaguest hint of wood which adds more to texture than flavour. A very fine example. Billaud-Simon has plots within the three sectors of Montée de Tonnerre, with the oldest plots in the Pied d'Aloup climat which reach 87 years old. Olivier Bailly normally only uses tank for this climat but this year has 6% in barrel.
Domaine Pinson Frerès
Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)
2022
94
TOP VALUE. PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. This Pinson Freres cuvée comes from south-east facing vines which are 60 years old. Floral notes combine with good ripeness of stone fruit on the palate and freshened up by lovely acidity. 10% of the blend was matured in new oak. This shows Monts de Milieu at its best. Plenty of mineral notes also add extra complexity to the whole. A fine premier cru which has power but in a refined, elegant package.
Jean-Marc Brocard, Les Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire
Chablis
2022
94
TOP-VALUE. Julien Brocard explains that the vines here age up to 75 years, reaching down 25 metres into the soil. More depth of colour than some. Restrained on the nose with a brooding, savoury character on the palate. Initially a bit more subdued than the 'straight' Chablis Sainte Claire, this has the potential for further future development given the concentration on show. Certainly pushing premier cru quality (if not even higher).
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin, Hommage à Louis
Chablis (Grand Cru)
2022
94
Benoît Droin notes the current administrative issues which prevent this cuvée being designated as Les Clos. Droin has three plots here (the classification of one of which is subject to bureaucratic dispute), ranging from cailloux-dominated soils to the east by Blanchot; blue-clay soils in the central area; and blue-clay/brown clay in the western plot beneath Valmur. Loads of spice, very powerful and a wine with great character and personality. Needs time to settle down but has lots of potential.
Julien Brocard, 7 Lieux Boissonneuse
Chablis
2022
94
PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. Julien Brocard's '7 Lieux' are seven distinct vineyards, run biodynamically under his own name. Fermented with indigenous yeast and matured for 12 months in foudres. Lovely wine with a fine balance of fleshiness, power, vivid acidity, and lingering minerality to keep everything precise and in check. You can almost feel the health of the vineyard. A delicious example of Chablis.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard
Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)
2022
94
Jean-Marc Brocard is one of the most influential producers in Chablis, and a leader in organic (60ha) and biodynamic (40ha) production. Vaulorent is situated next to Grand Cru Les Preuses and shares many characteristics. Restraint and elegance are combined with force, persistence and purity. Plenty of minerality and a salty, iodine note on the finish. A high-quality example of Vaulorent with plenty of ageing potential.
Roland Lavantureux
Chablis (1er Cru Vau de Vey)
2022
94
PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. Brothers Arnaud and David have been making exciting, intriguing wines at the family domaine. With 0.95ha, their Vau de Vey comes from vines with an average age of 35 years. A high-quality example from this premier cru which has distinct, cooler characters. Plenty of power and complexity on the nose and palate. A touch of oak evident but just needs a bit of time. Rich and luscious on the palate, cut with vibrant citrus acidity and a long, pure finish. A very fine example.
Domaine Roy
Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)
2022
94
PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. A cool, fresh and lively Fourchaume yet the brisk acidity provides a great counterfoil for some succulent, juicy and ripe fruit on the palate. Yet there is no doubting this is of Chablis origin with the focus and intensity on the palate. This should have a long drinking window and is a very classy example marrying the warmth of 2022 and the density of the premier cru.
Domaine Laroche, Vieilles Vignes
Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)
2022
94
Very restrained on the nose at the moment but there is clearly lots of purity and drive here. On the palate, this Fourchaume has great acidity and concentration, aided by the old-vines used for the cuvée. Very precise and delineated on the finish. Has the concentration to age beautifully for five-plus years.
Samuel Billaud
Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)
2022
94
A really impressive Mont de Milieu from Samuel Billaud, produced from his own grapes. 80% in tank with 20% matured in barrels for a year, before a further year in tank after blending. A high-quality, right-bank premier cru. Very stony soils with old-vines and low-yields around 35h/ha. A denser hue than some. Very crisp acidity, lovely texture of apple and a touch of stone fruit with plenty of acidity and pronounced salinity to finish.
Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret, Vieille Vignes
Chablis (1er Cru L'Homme Mort)
2022
94
A very weighty old-vine l'Homme Mort from a parcel planted in 1973. Hand-harvested and fermented in 500l barrels before blending and a further 10 months ageing in barrel. Certainly not everyone's idea of a 'classic' Chablis Premier Cru but this is beautifully done and a very classy wine. Will be even better once the wood has fully integrated.
Domaine des Malandes, Envers de Valmur
Chablis
2022
94
TOP-VALUE. PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. Domaine des Malandes was set up by Lynn Marchive in 1972. This is a premium cuvée from a parcel planted by Andre Tremblay between 1966 and 1970, situated at the bottom of the Vaudésir valley. Very precise and pure, crystalline and focussed, this has pronounced oyster-shell characters coming through. 40% matured in one- to five-year-old oak. A high-class Chablis which could easily pass muster for a premier cru (at the minimum). Great finesse as well as concentration.
Charly Nicolle
Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)
2022
93
A fine Bougros with plenty of acidity and mineral notes, allied to floral lift and some white pepper and spice on the palate. Not a blockbuster but very refined and elegant. No rush to drink this.
Domaine Louis Michel
Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)
2022
93
A grand cru with concentration and ageing potential. A great combination of ripeness and richness, cut with salinity and citrus acidity. From the north-facing side of the Vaudésir valley, Michel has two parcels planted on rich clay soils. Vaudésir can be a heat trap, but for those facing north it is less of an issue.
Domaine François Raveneau
Chablis (Blanchot Grand Cru)
2022
93
A grand cru with weight and power. Already disarmingly appealing, this elegant example is mineral and concentrated. A very fine Blanchot which will blossom after five years and drink for 20. Salty tang on the finish with intriguing hints of orange box.
Julien Brocard, Vigne de la Boissonneuse
Chablis
2022
93
A very classy combination of the extra richness found in 2022, with zesty lime acidity and a distinctive, salty edge to finish. A great Chablis to drink as an accompaniment to food. Long, precise and very pure on the finish. Organic and from a different part of the Brocard operation in Préhy.
Le Domaine d'Henri, Saint Pierre
Chablis
2022
93
A very complete and fine Burgundy which retains Chablis acidity but could easily stand comparison with Bourgogne wines from further south. Great concentration, purity of flavour and lingering acidity. Very fine. Produced by Michel Laroche, this is a complex construction from fermentation with indigenous yeasts, two thirds fermented in steel tank with 20% in amphora and 15% in wood ranging from 228-litre barrels to 600-litre and 1,800-litre. Hand-harvested fruit.
Domaine Servin
Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)
2022
93
A very crisp, clean and fresh example of Vaillons, with the sunny exposition bringing ripeness of pear and white peach fruit, together with attractive floral notes, all balanced by a fine line of acidity. Classy. The Servin family have been vignerons in the area since 1654.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat
Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)
2022
93
A very precise, high-quality example, with weight and ripeness on the palate coming from vines which are planted on very thick soils over Marne bedrock. Touch of bitterness on the finish. Attractive, forward and floral Vaillons.
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin
Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)
2022
93
Although these a rich, deep soils, Droin says they retain a lot of seashell character. Lively and fresh on the palate, you can feel the cool terroir combined with warm, ripe fruit. Very classy and will age beautifully. Benoit Droin explains that it is the argile-bleu (blue clay) found here which adds extra volume.
Samuel Billaud
Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)
2022
93
Appealing already, warm and with a sunny disposition on the palate, there is plenty of driving acidity to balance. Billaud explains that the white clay gives more power. Plenty of tension here. Will age. Not at all overripe. A fine example of Montmains with the vines averaging 35 years old. No barrels.
Alain Gautheron
Chablis (1er Cru Les Fourneaux)
2022
93
Appealing and fresh, with an intriguing whiff of white pepper (à la Grüner Veltliner). Plenty of weight here and very nice purity. A rather different take, would be great to enjoy with food. Crisp, zesty finish.
Domaine François Raveneau
Chablis
2022
93
Attractive sunny, warm notes on the nose, with a touch of white peach. Much more acidity and flintiness evident. A very high-quality Chablis which will benefit from several years ageing. Raveneau has two plots for its AP Chablis, one in a valley by Montmains, the other opposite Forêts; 1.1ha in total.
Domaine Yvon et Laurent Vocoret
Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)
2022
93
Bottled after nine months ageing on lees, this has a fine balance between ripe stone fruit on the palate and that attack of acidity and stony notes which keeps everything fresh. A complex Fourchaume that is already quite open and can be enjoyed now. The Vocoret family trace their Chablis roots back to 1713. They have 1.3ha of Fourchaume with the vines averaging 40 years of age.
Domaine Raoul Gautherin & Fils
Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)
2022
93
Concentrated and dense on the palate. Creamy notes, some oak here. Will be delicious once bottled. A fine expression of the warmer Vaudésir grand cru in this sunny vintage. Can be enjoyed relatively young. Tank sample.
Samuel Billaud
Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)
2022
93
Cool and restrained, not showing a lot at the moment, but has a fine balance between fruit ripeness and a fine thread of acidity. Precise, this will need time. Samuel Billaud has one plot in Chapelot and one in Montée de Tonnerre.
Domaine Roy, Vieilles Vignes
Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)
2022
93
Cool, fresh and precise. A grand cru with direct acidity and purity on the palate. Not a blockbuster but very much a pedigree animal. Mineral notes are very evident on the finish. Needs a few years cellaring to add further complexity and show its best. A family estate based in Fontenay, dating back to 1810, with Claude, David and Karine the latest generation in charge. Domaine Roy has over 3ha of Bougros, with vines aged over 50 years old.
Domaine Bernard Defaix
Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)
2022
93
Cool, restrained, nutty characters on the palate. A bit of wood is evident but there is plenty of balance and concentration to suggest this will develop very well once in bottle. Very good purity and ripeness of fruit. Tank sample.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat
Chablis (Petit Chablis)
2022
93
Dauvissat's plot lies behind Les Clos which imparts an extra concentration to this fine petit chablis. Peachy fruit notes, zesty character with a fine thread of acidity on the long finish. A classy example which balances the ripeness of 2022 with classic Chablis minerality. Already bottled.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire 46
Chablis
2022
93
Dense and rich style with a hint of reduction on the nose. More peach fruit than the citrus seen in Brocard's other Chablis. Love the extra weight here, very classy and fine. Aged in wood (petit foudre of 15 hectolitres). Comes from a massale selection planted after the Second World War.
Domaine William Fèvre
Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)
2022
93
Didier Séguier notes that Montmains, with it's deep clay soil, imparts extra richness. A favourite cuvée for Séguier, this is very mineral in character, tempering the richness and power on the palate. Fèvre owns 3.8ha of Montmains, coming from 10 plots across all three sub-climats.
Domaine William Fèvre
Chablis
2022
93
Distinct shellfish notes. Plenty of volume, a fleshy sunny character on the palate, freshened by lingering salinity to finish. Top example of AP Chablis in 2022. From 40ha of vines, with three distinct plots, including one from a lovely vineyard to the east around Viviers, with vines planted in the 1960s, but all of the vines have plenty of age.
Domaine François Raveneau
Chablis (1er Cru Les Montmains)
2022
93
Distinctive, creamy, almost lactic character on the nose. An intriguing Montmains but, at the moment, the fruit is a bit behind the acidity. Will need time. Lovely purity, not a blockbuster, but there is plenty of sunny ripeness. Located on the top of Montmains, with vines lying on thin soils over the bedrock in a windy area.
Domaine Long-Depaquit
Chablis (1er Cru Vaucoupin)
2022
93
Domaine Long-Depaquit is the Chablis arm of the Bichot family. Vaucoupin is one of their signatures and in 2022 it shows a great combination of sun-ripened peach fruit on the palate, balanced by zesty acidity and a hint of white pepper. Lovely purity here. Manages to be both powerful and elegant at the same time. Already drinking nicely, this has the concentration to age very well.
Vincent Dampt
Chablis
2022
93
From the highly skilled Dampt clan based in Milly. Quintessentially Chablis, with focused acidity, subtle but distinct ripeness of apple and pear fruit, and a lingering minerality on the finish. Just what you would expect from Vincent Dampt.
Samuel Billaud
Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)
2022
93
Green tinge in the glass, touch of smokiness on the palate. Very fresh and precise. Lovely purity here with the edge of oak coming through.
Domaine Sébastien Dampt
Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)
2022
93
I'd love to be a fly on the wall when the Dampt family get to compare wines. This has a bit of extra weight on the palate and a bit more roundness than brother Vincent's Vaillons. Chewy and with plenty of depth, this will age very well.
Domaine Séguinon-Bordet
Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)
2022
93
Jean-François Bordet is the dynamic owner of this Maligny property. The estate's Fourchaume is always on point and this is true in 2022. Cool, restrained, youthful nose. Plenty of drive on the palate, but this will need up to 12 months to really open up. Lots of potential, though, with notes of white flowers, zesty acidity and a very appealing mineral edge to finish. Lovely.
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin
Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)
2022
93
Lovely fruit quality; weighty, ripe and powerful but balanced with citrus freshness. A little more approachable than Vaulorent for the moment. Blue and white clay adds extra depth.
Domaine Bernard Defaix
Chablis (Bougros Grand Cru)
2022
93
Lovely sweetness of fruit, allied with the concentration expected from Chablis grand cru. Sunny and bright, but there is still lots of tension from the mineral notes and thread of acidity. Wood a bit evident at the moment but will settle down with time. This will be very fine once bottled and aged for a few years. Tank sample.
Domaine Louis Michel
Chablis (1er Cru Vaulorent)
2022
93
Michel notes that his plot of Vaulorent lies on relatively thick clay soils; certainly plenty of force and substance is in evidence. A very complete example of this top premier cru, with excellent acidity, crispness and tension. Plenty of concentration and ageing potential. A marked flinty edge to finish.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat
Chablis (Petit Chablis)
2022
93
Peachy fruit notes, zesty character with a fine thread of acidity on the long finish. A classy Petit Chablis which balances the ripeness of 2022 with classic Chablis minerality. Dauvissat's Petit Chablis plot lies behind Les Clos which imparts an extra layer of concentration.
Domaine Nathalie et Gilles Fevre
Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)
2022
93
Plenty of concentration and class from this top, right bank site. Fleshy peach on the palate, there is a line of acidity to keep everything on track and a lovely mineral edge to finish. Suspect the final bottled wine will be extremely good. Tank sample.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard
Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)
2022
93
Plenty of density evident. A fine combination with concentration, a touch of smoke and richess on the palate, cut with direct acidity. Sunny and ripe yet remains fresh and focused. Will appeal when still relatively young but has the ability to age well.
Simonnet-Febvre
Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)
2022
93
Plenty of sun-ripened fruit evident on the palate, with freshening citrus acidity to keep all in check. Nice density here. Not an out and out blockbuster but refined, elegant and a grand cru which will develop very well over time. Tank sample.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat
Chablis (1er Cru )
2022
93
Plenty of sweetness to the fruit, helped by the southwest exposure of the site. The vines lie on colder soils which, Vincent explains, warm up rapidly. Different colours of clay are found here. Should develop very nicely in bottle.
Charly Nicolle, Ante MCMLXXX
Chablis (1er Cru Les Fourneaux)
2022
93
Plenty of warmth on the palate, which displays depth and concentration of fruit. There is an intriguing dash of white pepper then brisk acidity to finish. Highly appealing and classy example from this less well-known premier cru. Produced from vines planted between 1965 and 1975. Charly Nicolle runs this exciting domaine in Fleys, and is a young, dynamic Chablis producer to watch.
Lamblin & Fils
Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)
2022
93
Racy acidity. Lots of minerality that rather dominates the ripe peach fruit character, but this will settle down over the next 18 months and the wine promises to be a fine Les Clos which will age well for up to a decade. Salty and white pepper notes on the finish. Fresh and very lively. Tank sample.
Domaine François Raveneau
Chablis (Petit Chablis)
2022
93
Raveneau mature all its Petit Chablis in 400 and 500-hectolitre barrels. Plenty of interest here, with density of ripe stone fruit and very linear acidity. Undoubtedly a very high class Petit Chablis which focuses on precision and elegance.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat
Chablis (1er Cru Séchet)
2022
93
Showing a bit more richness at the moment, with wood character coming through. Thin 30cm soils above the limestone bedrock contribute to the finesse. Crisp citrus acidity, very much a thoroughbred but needs time.
Dampt Freres
Chablis (Blanchot Grand Cru)
2022
93
Shows more of an herbal, slightly edgy style (to be expected from the unusual exposition of Blanchot). Plenty of zesty acidity here and no shortage of concentration on the palate. A classy result in this warmer vintage. Will benefit from a couple of years in bottle.
Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard
Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)
2022
93
Shows richness and ripeness on the palate, countered by pretty strident acidity. Not quite at its best at the moment and likely needs 12 months in bottle. Should then open out and be a fine example.
Domaine William Fèvre
Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)
2022
93
Starts ripe and fleshy in the mouth, then the minerality comes through. Fresh and direct, a very nicely balanced wine which, although approachable now, will age. The vines here lie on very steep slopes with full exposition to the sun. Early harvesting is the key to freshness.
Domaine Billaud-Simon
Chablis (Vaudésir Grand Cru)
2022
93
Sunny, warm, toasty and plenty of acidity. A grand cru with power yet retains plenty of finesse and purity. Partly matured in barrel, the oak is certainly evident, although Olivier Bailly says the wood will virtually disappear after a year in bottle.
Samuel Billaud
Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)
2022
93
There is a deeper edge to the colour, with excellent concentration and ripeness on the palate. All this is cut with citrus acidity, finishing with a powerful mineral undertow. Loads of character. A powerful and distinctive Les Preuses. Purchased grapes from 60-year-old vines.
Domaine Billaud-Simon
Chablis (1er Cru Mont de Milieu)
2022
93
There is an excellent balance between rich, honeyed notes and very crisp, clean acidity. Stony edge to the finish. This is approachable now but really needs several years. From four parcels, part of the blend is matured in barrel, the rest in tank. Will be bottled in January 2024.
Domaine Louis Michel
Chablis (1er Cru Forêts)
2022
93
Tight and precise on the palate, this will really benefit from additional time in bottle. Flint allied to peach underneath. Bright, vibrant acidity, give this at least 12 months. In Forêts, the bedrock is only 1m below the surface, with much rockier soils.
Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin
Chablis (Valmur Grand Cru)
2022
93
Valmur is a colder valley, with the effect being that there is much more minerality evident. Focused and perfumed, drive and tension on the palate. Intriguing notes of orange zest add further interest. 40% of the blend is aged in barrel. Saline notes to finish; there is a lot going on.
Charlène & Laurent Pinson
Chablis (1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre)
2022
93
Very aristocratic and elegant example of the cru. Not the richest in terms of fruit weight, yet this has great finesse on the palate with stone notes allied to bright citrus acidity on the finish. Very long in flavour. Classy and lots of ageing potential.
Domaine Drouhin Vaudon
Chablis (Les Clos Grand Cru)
2022
93
Very cool, elegant and with lovely purity on the palate. Acidity is the dominant player at the moment but give this 18 months in bottle before broaching. Fine texture, a really elegant expression.
Domaine Laroche, Vieilles Vignes
Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)
2022
93
Very precise Vaillons with plenty of ripe stone fruit on the palate, balanced by a fine line of zesty lime acidity. Just a hint of lees ageing/touch of oak here? All in all, a very classy, refined and long-living example of this premier cru.
Domaine William Fèvre, Les Lys
Chablis (1er Cru Vaillons)
2022
93
With its particular northerly exposition within Vaillons, you would expect Les Lys to be very successful in 2022. And it is. A fine blend of freshness allied to sun-drenched ripeness, with a pronounced mineral finish. A great example of the distinctive terroir of Les Lys. Long, mineral, salty tail.
Domaine Pinson Freres
Chablis (1er Cru Forêts)
2022
93
PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. Dating back to 1640, Pinson Freres (now with Laurent's daughter Charlene in charge) is producing exciting and dynamic Chablis. Plenty of appeal with the ripe, pure stone-fruit offset by crisp lime/lemon acidity. Finesse and elegance on the palate and a nice stony edge on the finish. A fine example of Forêts. Could be enjoyed now but has the concentration to age.
Domaine des Malandes
Chablis (1er Cru Vau de Vey)
2022
93
PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. Another fine premier cru from Domaine des Malandes in 2022. Vines were planted in 1980 by the domaine on the steep slopes of Vau de Vey, overlooking Beine. Partially aged in oak barrels, this adds an extra dimension to the concentrated palate. A fine example with plenty of acidity to balance the ripeness of fruit. Should age very well.
Domaine Vincent Dampt
Chablis (1er Cru Côte de Léchet)
2022
93
TOP-VALUE. PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. Vincent Dampt (grandson of Jean Defaix) trained in Beaune and the Jura before spells with Olivier Leflaive and in Marlborough. A typical example of Côte de Léchet, from old vines in Milly. This has weight on the palate with lots of generosity and purity and cut precisely with a fine line of lemon/lime acidity. Very finely poised and an impressive advert for this premier cru.
Domaine Gueguen
Chablis (Les Preuses Grand Cru)
2022
93
PRODUCER TO LOOK OUT FOR. Celine (daughter of Jean-Marc Brocard) and husband Frédéric, run this exciting operation in Prehy. Their Les Preuses is produced from grapes purchased from Sébastien Dauvissat. A very refined and concentrated example. Sun ripened peach fruit adorns the palate yet this retains a precision and elegance which bodes well for the future. Fermented and matured in oval steel tanks.
Domaine Gérard Tremblay
Chablis (1er Cru Fourchaume)
2022
93
TOP VALUE. Gerard Tremblay and his wife Hélène own this 37ha domaine. Cool notes on the nose and palate - just a hint of lanolin and some green apple characters. Plenty of concentration on the palate though with acidity and a fine stony finish adding lots of drive and complexity. A classy and distinctive Fourchaume.
