This island state has less than 1% of Australia’s vineyards and just 0.1% of wine is exported, but that hasn’t muffled the huge buzz surrounding its cool-climate potential. Huon Hooke finds very good things come in small packages...
Huon Hooke’s top 10 Tasmanian wines
Clover Hill, Vintage Brut, Pipers River 2008
18.5/20pts (95/100pts)
Toasty, bready bouquet with lots of yeast and bottle-aged character. Vibrant in the mouth: very complex with layers of flavour, intensity and drive. Clean, dry finish.
Price: £25.99 Alliance Wine, Carruthers & Kent
Drink 2014-2017
Alc 12.5%
Jansz, Vintage Cuvée, Pipers River 2007
18.25/20pts (94/100pts)
Lemon and honey aromas with bready, toasty and nutty overtones. Complex and subtle, refined and attractive with a delicate and beautifully proportioned palate.
Price: £21.99 Flagship Wines, Fraziers, Free Run Juice, Highbury Vintners, Reserve Wines, SH Jones, Slurp
Drink 2014-2017
Alc 12%
Heemskerk, Chardonnay 2012
19.25/20pts (97/100pts)
Shy, restrained aroma hinting at malt, flowers and honey. Delicate, refined and restrained palate of great intensity, line and length, holding a lot in reserve. A great wine of class and finesse.
Price: £27.50 (2011, in bond) Laithwaite’s
Drink 2014–2022
Alc 13%
Tolpuddle, Chardonnay, Coal Valley 2012
19/20pts (96/100pts)
Very restrained in all respects. The bouquet has great subtlety and harmony, with elements of creamy lees notes, cashew and white peach. Tremendously fine and long, with seamless acidity. Lovely.
Price: £45-£59 Halifax Wine Co, Harvey Nichols, Hedonism, No2 Pound Street, Oz Wines
Drink 2014-2020
Alc 13%
Bay of Fires, Riesling 2013
18.5/20pts (95/100pts)
Very fresh, bright floral and struck-flint mineral aromas. Delicate in the mouth, fresh and taut, delivering a lot of fruit flavour. Superb, and will reward cellaring.
Price: N/A UK bayoffireswines.com.au
Drink 2014–2033
Alc 12.5%
Dawson & James, Chardonnay, Derwent Valley 2011
18.5/20pts (95/100pts)
Oak aromas of smoky bacon plus grapefruit and toast. Discreet and subtle yet has great length. Finely poised and balanced, building intensity along the palate.
Price: £46.99 Liberty Wines
Drink 2014-2020
Alc 12.7%
Domaine A, Lady A Fumé Blanc, Coal Valley 2010
18.25/20pts (94/100pts)
Rich, powerful oaky bouquet, with concentrated, sweetly ripe fruit. A ‘worked’ wine, made in the cellar: barrel- fermented, long, focused and powerful, needing time.
Price: £69.99 Alliance Wine
Drink 2014-2020
Alc 14%
Home Hill, Kelly’s Reserve Pinot Noir, Huon Valley 2012
19/20pts (96/100pts)
Bright and youthful all round: red cherry, spice and coconut aromas; clean and vibrant. Elegant medium- weight palate, of succulent, sweet fruit – utterly delicious. Will be long-lived.
Price: N/A UK homehillwines.com.au
Drink 2014-2027
Alc 13.8%
Freycinet Vineyard, Pinot Noir, East Coast 2012
18.5/20pts (95/100pts)
Discreet, dark cherry, violet and blueberry aromas, with a little note of undergrowth. A powerful Pinot of wonderful flavour: tight, firm and full in the mouth with density and gravitas.
Price: £45.83 (2008) Noel Young
Drink 2014-2027
Alc 13.5%
Pooley, Butcher’s Hill Pinot Noir, Coal Valley 2012
18.5/20pts (95/100pts)
Spicy, ripe, dark cherry fruit aromas and attractive supporting oak. A stylish wine that is full and flavoursome, elegant and balanced, with good structure and texture. Rich, satisfying finish.
Price: N/A UK pooleywines.com.au
Drink 2014-2024
Alc 13.5%
