No one has a better grasp of Italy’s current wine scene than the professional winemakers who work the length and breadth of the country. For an insider’s view, Carla Capalbo spoke to three of the best...
Three wise men: Winemakers’ choice wines
Ferrante’s choice
Il Solatio, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, from Castello d’Albola, Tuscany 2010
‘Made from a single vineyard of Sangiovese at 600m in one of Chianti Classico’s coolest areas, on a steeply sloped, rocky terrain surrounded by woods. It shows the grape’s elegant side with lively acidity and depth, and will come of age after years of cellaring.’
Price: £38-£40 Zonin UK
Falsini’s choice
San Lorenzo, Passopisciaro, Etna Rosso, Sicily, produced by Girolamo Russo
‘This, for me, is the essence of a wine: it expresses the depth, balance and minerality of 90-year-old Nerello Mascalese vines growing at 700m, on the northern side of Mt Etna. I’ve worked with its producer, Giuseppe Russo, from the start. This was his first single-vineyard wine. Naturally grown, the grapes are picked very late, when they’re perfectly mature. It has helped Passopisciaro become known internationally as the foremost Etna production area.’
Price: N/A UK girolamorusso.it
Landi’s choice
Pecorino, Abruzzo, produced by Cataldi Madonna
‘This white grape is an ancient variety from areas between Abruzzo and Le Marche; it almost died out. It grows high in cool slopes of limestone in the Apennine Mountains where sheep also graze (pecorino means ‘of sheep’), and balances power, richness and aromatic intensity. Luigi Cataldi Madonna was the first to believe in it again. This ages well, with notes of flowers, passion fruit and grapefruit, plus good acidity and minerality.’
Price: £28.50 Astrum Wine Cellars
