Efforts to seek out and preserve old-vine Chenin Blanc are currently reaping rewards for South Africa’s winemakers. Tim Atkin MW finds out how one of the country’s oldest varieties has become its newest source of world-class wines...
The Cape winelands is one of the most beautiful vineyard regions in the world, all craggy peaks, sweeping vistas and cobalt blue skies.
By these dramatic, almost cinematic standards, the Mev (Mrs) Kirsten vineyard is something of a disappointment. Situated in the Jonkershoek Valley, close to the untidy urban sprawl of Stellenbosch, it has none of the grandeur of some of South Africa’s greatest crus.
And yet this 0.7ha parcel of Chenin Blanc is undeniably special, a distinction that’s reflected in its historical importance as well as the quality of its wine.
Scroll down to see Tim’s pick of the best South African old vine Chenin Blanc
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"}
Tim’s pick of the best South African old-vine Chenin Blancs
{}
{"wineId":"22549","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{"wineId":"22550","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{"wineId":"22551","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{"wineId":"22552","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{"wineId":"22553","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{"wineId":"22554","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{"wineId":"22556","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{"wineId":"22555","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{"wineId":"22557","displayCase":"standard","paywall":true}
{}
Tim Atkin MW is an award-winning wine writer and leading commentator on the Cape. He publishes an annual report on its wines at www.timatkin.com
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