Piedmont Score Table

After tasting 243 Piedmont Nebbiolos from Barolo, Barbaresco and the Langhe, Aldo Fiordelli has given his verdict on the latest releases from the region.

Here we present a quick and easy way to see tasting notes and scores for all the wines he tasted scoring 93 points or above.

Producer	Appellation	Score
GB Burlotto, Monvigliero	Barolo (Verduno)	98	Fabio Alessandria is one of the most talented wine producers at present in Barolo. If Monvigliero is recognised for its particular elegance, the interpretation at GB Burlotto adds depth and consistency to it. The harvest, which in Monvigliero is rather early, 'has been brought forward almost one month in 2017,' according to Alessandria. 'We finished picking the Nebbiolo on 31 September.' In this vintage he preferred selected yeast over indigenous yeast due to the heat and the potential alcohol. He fermented the wine in Slavonian oak vessels without destemming and let the malolactic conversion occur spontaneously, still in oak. It has a crystalline purity on the nose of peony, orange peel and red berries, embellished with cinnamon and rhubarb flavoured boiled sweets. Fleshy and earthy strawberry flavours are joined by lavish, almost silky, tannins of great volume on the mid-palate, and lifted acidity that will keep it going strong for decades.
Conterno Fantino, Vigna Sorì Ginestra	Barolo (Monforte d’Alba)	97	Pale ruby in hue with a dense colour, full of intriguing leafy lightness with fresh mint, pomegranate and rosehip. This shines for its elegance. A concentration of citrus and darker fruits overlay fresh acidity and solid, muscular tannins which are typical of Ginestra - in my experience this Sorì can be even more austere in the best vintages. Hailed as a warm vintage, the 2017 here expresses an extraordinary freshness with a citrus finish. Outstanding ageing potential.
Giovanni Rosso, Vignarionda Ester Canale	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	97	The charm of Vignarionda is its ability to express the austere character of Serralunga alongside stunning finesse. Giovanni Rossi, with his Ester Canale selection, is one of the vineyard's best examples. Very pale ruby in colour (no garnet here!), it has restrained notes of rhubarb flavoured boiled sweets and earthy strawberry, with whiffs of cypress and rose petal . Firm, concentrated but polished, bracing acidity is followed by savoury strawberry and citrus flavours, with an amazing depth of watermelon rind, rhubarb root and liquorice. A sleek wine built to last.
Guido Porro, Vigna Santa Caterina	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	97	The one-hectare Vigna Santa Caterina vineyard lies behind the Guido Porro estate in Serralunga, within the Lazzarito MGA at 400 metres on clay and limestone soil. The wine is fermented in concrete with indigenous yeast then fermented in large Slavonian oak casks (15-25hL). Blood orange, olives, cinnamon, camphor...the vibrancy of this wine is stunning. On the palate it is firm and velvety, with a slightly dusty Nebbiolo texture, lifted acidity and a mineral-laden finish. A great wine focused on elegance, this is precise and long-lasting with an impressive savouriness; I would even say salty.
Massolino, Parafada	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	97	Parafada is one of the best known MGAs in Serralunga, located between Gabutti and Lazzarito with a mostly southern exposure. Massolino's vineyards are at 330 metres above sea level and produce one of the most representative wines of the MGA. Intense smoky woodland notes emerge first, then wild strawberry and darker violet-soaked fruits. There's serious elegance on the palate, with near-perfect tannins (not only in the context of the vintage), a youthful character, and a dense mid-palate of lifted acidity and filigreed depth. A great wine but not so easy to drink now because of its youthful restraint.
Azelia, Margheria	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	96	Margheria is an MGA in Serralunga, where Azelia occupies the higher westerly aspect. This makes the wine more austere in comparison to examples from other producers. Bright ruby in the glass, the scents are mostly focused on violets, with rhubarb and red berry notes. The palate is vibrant and mineral, with ripe, lavish tannins and bracing acidity. The structure and the almost-tart fruit are finely tailored. Outstanding now, but built for the long haul.
Bartolo Mascarello	Barolo (Barolo)	96	In 2015, Maria-Teresa Mascarello uprooted the estate's San Lorenzo vines, which no longer feature in this impressive blend. The 2017, as with the exceptional 2016, instead includes grapes from Monrobiolo di Bussia. Harvest was completed on 23 September, more or less two weeks earlier than average. In the winery, the maceration was reduced from the usual 40-50 days to 20. Subdued rose and tar notes are joined by a leafy lightness, then a crystalline definition of red berries in both aroma and flavour. Velvety tannins and assertive acidity hold the wine in tension and balance, powered by orange savouriness. It's more delicate and less extracted than 2016, but with similar ageing potential. Released in September 2021.
Conterno Fantino, Mosconi Vigna Ped	Barolo (Monforte d’Alba)	96	Among the 27 hectares of Conterno Fantino is Vigna Ped, an east-facing cru within the Mosconi MGA. Similar to Ginestra, in 2017 it seems to be a bit rounder and less austere. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation naturally in the spring. It displays intense leafy lightness with wild strawberry puree and liquorice root, but also whiffs of truffle and cocoa powder. The attack is firm and assertive, with both acidity and tannins - which are large, grainy and ripe. The structure is well balanced by fruit concentration, vibrancy and complexity. Despite its meatiness, it's not ready to drink yet. For the long haul.
Domenico Clerico, Ciabot Mentin - Ginestra	Barolo (Monforte d’Alba)	96	Bright ruby with a garnet rim in the glass, the nose is remarkably classic, with plenty of leafy lightness typical of Barolo. Restrained and filigreed, it hides rich red and dark cherry, rosebud and violet aromas, with liquorice root in depth. The dense and vibrant palate is full of sucrosity, with cherry and tar alongside a violet tinge. The tannins are as much extracted as lavish, noble and ripe, while acid carries the finish of cherry kernel. Astonishing, ageworthy wine. Don't touch it before 2022.
Gaja, Sperss	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	96	In 2017, according to Rossana Gaja, Sperss was picked almost a month after the start of the harvest on 18 September. Coming from Serralunga, this interpretation of Barolo exhibits a dark profile of earthy tones and chocolate, with graceful jam-like cherry, orange peel and violet. Thick and extracted on the mid-palate with crisp acidity, the structure is perfectly woven into its restrained plummy fruits and liquorice finish. It's not showing much poise at present, but clearly has a long life ahead.
GB Burlotto, Acclivi	Barolo (Verduno)	96	Acclivi comes partly from Boscato and Rocche Olmo, which are cooler and later ripening areas in Verduno, so better suited to hot vintages such as 2017. Indeed, there is a remarkable energy of wild strawberry, liquorice and chocolate alongside bracing acidity and ripe, dusty tannins. The savoury character stretches the length, and it displays good concentration for the long haul.
GB Burlotto, Cannubi Valletta	Barolo (Barolo)	96	With its easterly exposure - among the freshest sites within Cannubi - on a soil of white marl and sandstone layers, this Barolo maintains the elegance of the MGA even in a dry vintage such as 2017. It's another milestone for Fabio Alessandria. An overt minty note with cocoa powder, pomegranate, rose and balsamic tones is followed by confected, almost stone fruit flavours, with liquorice on the finish. Silky, velvety tannins are accompanied by delicate, refreshing acidity and a full body.
Giovanni Rocca, Mosconi	Barolo (Monforte d’Alba)	96	The sternness of Mosconi is tamed here with an astonishing balance. It comes not by chance from a very clay-rich soil that performs particularly well in hot years such as this 2017 vintage. Rhubarb, rose, cinnamon and framboise are the four well defined aromas characterising the nose. The attack is surprisingly fleshy and vibrant - you don't want to spit it out! The wine is full and velvety, lifted with refreshing high acidity, and showing savoury, ripe fruits on the endless finish.
Giuseppe Rinaldi, Tre Tine	Barolo	96	This is the last vintage produced by Beppe Rinaldi. I personally prefer the estate's Brunate most of the time but in 2017, Tre Tine seems to express more concentration. The wine shows vibrant red berry and plum fruits alongside a citrus, almost herbal, freshness. It's not really poised at present, with assertive acidity and firm, muscular tannins that are chewy rather than hard. Its fierce character is balanced by plenty of fruit concentration. Released in spring 2021, I would drink it from October onwards.
Guido Porro, Gianetto	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	96	An intoxicating wild strawberry scent is enhanced by rhubarb flavoured boiled sweets, cinnamon, and macerated violet. The palate is full of sucrosity, dense and extracted, with fierce, bony fine-grained tannins and bracing acidity. The savoury character dominates the finish along with the wild strawberry fruit. A sleek wine not without the power to age.
Massolino, Margheria	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	96	This plot in the Margheria MGA lies at 340 metres above sea level, on 1.1 hectares of calcareous soil with sandstone. The yield per hectare is 4.5 tonnes per hectare, while the average age of the vines is 35 years. The winemaking is traditional, with a long maceration of up to 20 days, then ageing in big oak vessels for 30 months. This 2017 is more austere than open knit. Margheria has the ability to combine sternness with elegance, here with a stunning intensity. Pomegranate fruit peeps out on the nose, while there's a crystalline floral character of Parma violets, dried cherry and liquorice, with some earthy tones. The attack is also austere, with firm tannins that are muscular and powerful and a velvety, refined texture. Firm acidity leads to a lifted finish.
Palladino, Parafada	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	96	The style of Palladino is fiercely classic and in some ways old fashioned: the wines are fermented in stainless steel tanks then aged in French and Slavonian oak vessels as well as smaller barrels. The estate's Parafada is one of the wines of the vintage, and an excellent example of the MGA's character. It has an intense nose of stunning depth, restrained and focused, with fresh dark fruits, tar, wild strawberry and liquorice. The intoxicating complexity is wrapped up in a velvety texture on the palate, the lifted acidity thrusting forward wild strawberry notes. The tannins are firm but the sternness comes only at the end.
Boasso, Gabutti	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	95	Just seven hectares are managed by Franco Boasso and his sons, Ezio and Claudio at their small estate in Borgata Gabutti, immediately overlooking the vineyards of this Barolo. In a challenging vintage such as 2017, the importance of selecting the grapes and handling the wine with handcrafted accuracy may have made the difference. Moreover, Franco Boasso considers his part of Gabutti as early maturing. Garnet but not so pale in the glass, this is austere on the nose, although rosewater, blood orange, liquorice and earthy tones emerge gradually. Grainy tannins quite typical of the MGA yet with an outstanding ripeness underline the structure. The acidity is tight-knit, with fresh red fruit persisting all the way to the end. In depth there are notes of cinchona bark and liquorice. A full, complex wine built to last.
Casa E di Mirafiore, Lazzarito	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	95	Located at 350-400 metres above sea level, facing south/southwest, the soil here is of sedimentary marine origin with a high content of greyish-white calcareous marl. Restrained wild strawberry fruit is wrapped up in an elegant bouquet of violet and rose, while on the palate blood orange notes lead to a long finish of liquorice root and wild herbs. This Lazzarito shows all of its potential thanks to its great intensity and depth, lively fruit, and refined, lavish tannins - yet it's delicate and lifted despite the structure.
Ceretto, Brunate	Barolo	95	Bright and intense ruby in the glass, the nose is a telltale super-restrained spectrum of elegance: tar and dried cherry, violet and chocolate, with earthy minerality in depth. Flavours of graphite, cherry fruit and a touch of marzipan dominate on the full-bodied palate, accompanied by firm, velvety tannins, assertive acidity and a warming finish. This 2017 Brunate is approachable now but will express its best after at least another one or two years in bottle.
Ceretto	Barolo (Bussia)	95	This is the best interpretation of Bussia in 2017. The restrained nose features a stunning Parma violet aroma followed by cherry and liquorice, with raw meat in depth. Refined tannins of velvety texture and noble elegance flow on the palate, well integrated with lifted acidity and a good savoury finish. Not enormous concentration - this is instead focused on finesse.
Ceretto, Prapò	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	95	Ceretto manages the central part of Prapò, a prestigious MGA in Serralunga similar to Cerretta in style. The nose opens up with dried cherry, rhubarb, violet, cinnamon and truffle in depth. The attack is velvety, followed by noble tannins and delicate lifted acidity. The dry, warm 2017 vintage is perceived in the subtle scratch on the finish accompanying a cherry kernel character. Sternness alongside finesse.
Ettore Germano, Cerretta	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	95	Ettore Germano owns 3.2 hectares in the well known Serralunga MGA of Cerretta, between 350 and 400 metres above sea level. Peony and pomegranate juice are enhanced by smoky oak, quite assertive at present. The attack is fresh and tight, with huge extraction on the mid-palate showcasing angular, powerful tannins and delivering sternness on the finish. The wine is balanced, however, by fruit concentration with a blood orange finish. Definitely not an easy wine to drink, but it's not ungainly either. I would wait for it.
Francesco Rinaldi & Figli, Cannubi	Barolo (Barolo)	95	The grapes for this wine arrived from Cannubi Boschis (2.2 hectares) and Cannubi (0.6ha). Fermented in stainless steel, it is than aged in Slavonian botti grandi for at least three years. Very pale ruby with a garnet rim, it is fresh thanks to notes of lemon leaf, mint and wild strawberry - very classic. The attack is grainy and youthful, with well packed tannins, almost zesty acidity, and a strawberry character. A fresh expression of the vintage, focused more on elegance than extraction.
Fratelli Alessandria, Gramolere	Barolo (Monforte d’Alba)	95	Gramolere is close to Bussia but separated from it by a deep valley, and the soil originates from a different geology: we find Sant'Agata Fossili sandy marls in Gramolere and Diano d'Alba sandstone at the top of Bussia (Pianpolvere). If you prefer fruit-driven wines, this wine is worth a try. Gramolere is known to be restrained and austere, but here the nose is dominated by rhubarb root, rosehip, tar, and earthy clay minerality. Candied cherry and pomegranate juice flavours provide fruit concentration, while the tight-knit structure showcases chewy acidity and austere yet ripe tannins on the mid-palate, followed by a graceful watermelon finish. A great wine indeed.
Gaja, Conteisa	Barolo	95	Gaja manages two different plots in Cerequio, from where most of the grapes for Conteisa come. Both exposures - southeast and east - mark the character of this wine. If Sperss is the Yin, Conteisa would be the Yang: It's dark fruited with black cherry and plum complemented by graceful wild herbs and mint, and a bloody, olive-like savouriness. Full-bodied and crisp, the tannins are firm, thick and dusty yet evolved.
Giacomo Fenocchio, Villero	Barolo (Castiglione Falletto)	95	Giacomo Fenocchio is a truly authentic vintner of the Bussia vineyard. Although the Villero MGA has a southwesterly exposure, his plot is mostly south-facing. This vintage is restrained and elegant. Liquorice root, smoky woodland, wild strawberry: an extremely classic nose, with some rhubarb minerality. The attack is velvety, full of fruit concentration yet stern, even if without dryness or bitterness. Dusty on the finish, the acidity carries the long cherry kernel notes. A classic Barolo built to age.
Giuseppe Rinaldi, Brunate	Barolo (Barolo)	95	There are about 175 metres between the lowest and the highest plots within Brunate. Rinaldi's lie in the lower part, with a slightly easterly exposure but mostly south-facing. A super-classic Barolo, it has fresh violet, wild strawberry, liquorice and smoky tones on the nose. Firm yet graceful with good - if not great - concentration and length, it combines tight-knit acidity with strawberry and blood orange flavours - a vibrant palate despite the dry vintage, which is only perceived in its slightly biting finish.
Marco Marengo	Barolo (La Morra)	95	Marco Marengo manages little more than four hectares in La Morra. His Brunate is a wine to look out for, but in a dry vintage such as 2017, the blended wine from this passionate vintner is no less interesting. The grapes were sourced from Fontanazza, Brunate, Bricco delle Viole and Pugnane. It exhibits leafy lightness with orange peel and cocoa powder. The attack is firm, muscular yet ripe. Dense on the mid-palate, it has bracing acidity combined with eminently savoury orange fruit. The finish is chiselled, with a good length of fruits and liquorice.
Massolino, Parussi	Barolo (Castiglione Falletto)	95	The estate's first Barolo made from grapes grown outside of the Serralunga d’Alba commune, retaining the refined style of the estate; as respectful as it is precise. The wine is restrained and chiselled, with a detailed nose of violet, vibrant sandalwood and wild strawberry. Fleshy first, then velvety, this is polished in the mouth, with mid-palate weight and firm acidity. The structure seems filigreed but it's there, and it's built for the long haul.
Pio Cesare, Mosconi	Barolo (Monforte d’Alba)	95	Mosconi is an MGA that is often picked late and so could possibly have benefitted from the warm and dry 2017 vintage. This example from Pio Cesare is focused on elegance with lifted, concentrated aromas and flavours of orange peel, strawberry jam, rose and a touch of smoke, which all become intoxicating on the palate. This great intensity and concentration are supported by firm, muscular tannins and an assertive finish, combined with crisp acidity. Rarely in this 2017 vintage do we find this combination of fruit weight and strength of structure.
Pio Cesare, Ornato	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	95	The very first single-vineyard Barolo produced by the family, first made in 1985, this is vinified in stainless steel tanks with moderate temperature control. It then undergoes maceration for 30 days and ageing in botti for about 30 months, with a small portion of the wine in French oak barriques for the first 12 months. Dark ruby in colour, it has aromas of raspberry, rose, violet, cherry, slatey minerality and graphite. The attack is subtle, the tannins polished, with an extracted mid-palate. Assertive acidity and an austere finish are balanced by fragrant cherry fruit and a liquorice aftertaste.
Réva, Cannubi	Barolo (Barolo)	95	Réva is a fairly new winery founded in 2012 in Monforte. Managed by the talented Daniele Gaia, the estate also includes a boutique hotel and Michelin-starred restaurant. In the warm and dry 2017 vintage, the harvest finished on 9 October, while in 2016 'we were done on the 30 October; someone else nearby finished even later'. Low-temperature fermentation is employed here, and the definition of fruit is stunning, with watermelon and pomegranate juice, and full of mint. Full-bodied, crisp and velvety, this shows the supple character of Cannubi, its grace and complexity highlighted by officinal herbs and rhubarb, and an almost vermouth-like finish.
Vietti, Lazzarito	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	95	Vietti owns two hectares in Lazzarito, a stunning amphitheatre facing southwest on clay-limestone soil. Planted to about 4,500 plants per hectare, the vines here have an average age of 38 years. Sweet, filigreed notes of cinnamon, strawberry candy and violet unfold in the glass. The attack is polished, with ripe, crunchy tannins. The austerity of Serralunga here becomes density and volume, kept lively by lifted acidity and finishing with liquorice root and cinnamon. Perfect balance and great elegance. This will develop more complexity with ageing.
Amalia, Le Coste di Monforte	Barolo (Monforte d’Alba)	94	Le Coste is a prestigious MGA and this wine, aged in barriques as well as in big 26hL oak vessels, is carefully handled, well integrated and elegant. Ruby in the glass, it is focused on fresh notes of red berries and rose, followed by plenty of balsamic character. Almost zesty acidity and ripe, chewy tannins are supported by fleshy fruit and graphite minerality in depth, with a great finish.
Aurelio Settimo, Rocche dell'Annunziata	Barolo (La Morra)	94	An authentic and traditional family estate based in Frazione Annunziata, Tiziana Settimo focuses on classic winemaking with concrete fermentation with long submerged-cap maceration, and ageing in big oak vessels. The wine is tantalising on the nose, with light orange leaf and an intense spectrum of plum, strawberry, mint and tar in depth, with a whiff of cocoa powder. Fresh strawberry and cherry flavours are accompanied by hugely extracted tannins, with a slightly warming finish balanced by a long, intense mint note.
Azelia, Cerretta	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	94	We have waited for almost 30 years to vinify the single-vineyard Cerretta separately, in order to have older vines,' said fourth-generation owner, Luigi Scavino. The 2016 was first Ceretta to be released, followed up by this 2017. Bright ruby in colour, it has a restrained nose of smoky woodland, leather, violet, pomegranate and cherry. The ripe attack is almost fleshy, followed by assertive acidity and polished tannins which become chalky on the cherry kernel finish. Hidden power.
Azelia, San Rocco	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	94	A serious wine to cellar, this opens with restrained aromas of fresh and dried cherries, black pepper, enticing violet and liquorice root. Intensely floral in flavour, it has an assertive, almost aggressive acidity at present, with muscular, still-rugged tannins at the end (although the initial impression is softer). Not really ready to drink now, but will improve with ageing.
Azelia, Bricco Fiasco	Barolo (Castiglione Falletto)	94	Located in Castiglione Falletto, Bricco Fiasco is a vineyard of old vines (85 years old) considered to be the historical selection of the estate. Fermented with indigenous yeasts for approximately 60 days with a submerged cap, it's then aged in large oak vessels for 24 months. Intense ruby in colour, it is restrained but full of layers, dominated by a bouquet of rose and violet, with fruit ranging between cranberry and dried cherry, followed by leather and earthy tones. Sucrose, fleshy and pure on the full-bodied palate, with velvety tannins and refreshing acidity. The floral character is intoxicating, while the extraction is so great on the mid-palate and chalky on the finish.
Brezza, Sarmassa	Barolo (Barolo)	94	There's a relatively high clay content (30%) in the soil of Sarmassa, which gives better results in dry vintages such as 2017. Clean and extremely fresh, the wine is focused on rose petal and black pepper notes, full of leafy lightness then violet. Crunchy, almost tart fruit and sweet, dusty tannins are promising for the long haul, and there's a great finish with suggestions of citrus and liquorice.
Bruna Grimaldi, Badarina	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	94	The sternness of Serralunga here, at the southernmost tip of the municipality reaching 400 metres in altitude, brings tension and depth to this wine. Badarina is not that well known considering its quality. Its two amphitheatres of vines lie on the eastern flank of the commune, bordering other Serralunga MGAs Francia, Falletto and Boscareto. Bruna Grimaldi is a family estate based on the Roddino road, and Badarina is one of its most representative wines. Restrained red berries, smoky woodland and spicy, peppery minerality lead to a full bodied and powerful palate, not at the expense of finesse, however. It presents firm, austere tannins and racy acidity, supported by bright, fresh red berry flavours and completed by a liquorice finish. This ageworthy wine will develop more complexity with bottle ageing.
Casa E di Mirafiore, Paiagallo	Barolo (Barolo)	94	Mirafiore lies at the northern tip of Paiagallo on the typical Sant'Agata fossil marls, in La Villa, just above the road to Barolo. Extremely pale yet ruby in colour, this Barolo displays pomegranate, black pepper and smoky woodland in depth. Velvety and full bodied, it has good fruit concentration and crisp acidity, with a graceful balance despite an upbeat, extractive style.
Cascina Bongiovanni, Pernanno	Barolo (Castiglione Falletto)	94	With its scents of pot-pourri, dried cherry and tar, and defined strawberry and cherry flavours with plenty of florals, this wine shows the aristocracy of Barolo. It has youthful, grainy tannins of excellent quality, and is extracted and sweet on the finish, but don't be wary about its rugged character at present - this is a texture on which one can trust in for the long haul and indeed it's a Pernanno from a warm, dry vintage, so is normally austere. Davide Mozzone confirms its classic and traditional style despite the small oak barrels for ageing.
Cavallotto, Bricco Boschis	Barolo (Castiglione Falletto)	94	In 2017, Cavallotto's Bricco Boschis debuts a new label reporting the precise quantity of bottles produced. All but a monopole since 2014, today Alfio Cavallotto manages 15.4 of the Bricco's 17 hectares. A fiercely traditional Barolo, it has a rather rustic, meaty profile, with dark fruits and earthy, tarry tones softened by rose. The assertive palate of firm, muscular and dusty tannins is well supported by great fruit concentration. A true Barolo, rather old fashioned yet with great potential for the long haul.
Diego Conterno	Barolo (Monforte d’Alba)	94	Diego Conterno is an ex-partner of Conterno Fantino and founded his own estate in 2003. He manages 7.5 hectares in Monforte d'Alba. Bright ruby in colour - no garnet - this has complex layers on the nose of dried cherry and darker cranberry, with vibrant rose petal, tar and camphor, the nose has layers and complexity. Firm and austere on the palate, it has bracing acidity in a tight-knit structure, with an assertive blood orange flavour and an austere finish with the acidity remerging to add refreshment. Built to age.
Domenico Clerico, Ginestra - Pajana	Barolo (Monforte d’Alba)	94	Pajana lies at medium altitude in the Ginestra MGA on loamy soil with around 23% each of sand and clay, plus a lot of active chalk. Reductive and precise on the nose with notes of pomegranate and rosebud, light tea leaf also emerges after some time. The attack is relaxing, with supple red cherry fruit sustained by polished tannins and brilliant acidity. The rhubarb finish is not without an austere bite, and there's also some tar and liquorice on the aftertaste.
Fabio Oberto, Brunate	Barolo (La Morra)	94	This estate is the new project of Fabio Oberto, who employs Sergio Molino as his consultant. His Brunate deserves attention. It displays a finessed nose with a depth of minerality and leafy lightness, crystalline wild strawberry fruit, liquorice root, vibrant blood orange, and smoky woodland. Full bodied, it is eminently ripe on the palate, with great concentration of red berries, crisp acidity and velvety tannins in a tight-knit structure. Liquorice and mint appear on the finish, with balsamic whiffs. Ageing occurs in Slavonian oak as well as French barrique. Tasted as a barrel sample.
Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno, Cannubi	Barolo (Barolo)	94	The vineyard at the top within the centre of Cannubi itself is outstanding: three hectares on sand and limestone soils from a combination of Tortonian and Elvetian epochs. Aged in Slavonian oak vessels, this example shows its open-knit grace with peachy sweetness of fruits, with touches of red berries and mint. Lighter bodied than usual, its naturally refreshing acidity and firm yet ripe tannins are completed by an amazing savoury character with a liquorice finish.
Gagliasso, Rocche dell'Annunziata	Barolo (La Morra)	94	Luca Gagliasso is based in La Morra, and in the Rocche dell'Annunziata MGA he manages at least three different plots. This 2017 is bright garnet in the glass, with restrained smoky woodland and liquorice notes accompanied by vibrant blood orange and rhubarb root minerality. Full and sucrose on the palate, it is firm and crunchy, showing great ripeness, with outstanding balance between grace and power.
Gigi Rosso, Bricco San Pietro	Barolo (Monforte d’Alba)	94	Gigi Rosso is a well known traditional vintner in Castiglione Falletto. Today the winery is managed by Maurizio and his son Andreas. The grapes are harvested from Bricco San Pietro, the biggest MGA in the commune, and aged for 36 months in Slavonian oak casks. The sternness and concentration of this wine suggests the grapes might mostly come from the Tantesi part of the Bricco. Anyway, despite being at the southernmost part of Barolo, this MGA is usually harvested quite late; not bad for an early vintage such as 2017. Pale ruby in colour, this has scents of rose, tar, plum and red berries. The delicacy of the nose is followed by a massive palate: firm, extracted, muscular and austere yet incredibly well balanced by rich fruit, with a liquorice finish. A powerful rather than elegant wine, this is built to age.
Giovanni Rosso, Serra	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	94	This interpretation of Serra from Giovanni Rosso exhibits rhubarb and liquorice roots, earthy strawberry and pomegranate fruits, then balsamic minerality in depth with a hint of camphor. The first impression was more austere - the wine definitely demands patience. With time, it flows firm yet crunchy, with amazing tension and a ripe finish without any Serralunga sternness.
Giovanni Rosso	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	94	A blend of grapes from Costabella, Cerretta, Damiano and Brolio, red berries and liquorice root are followed by orange peel and rhubarb, with a minty, milky sweetness. Not quite full bodied, the palate is velvety and youthful, with grainy yet ripe tannins, firm acidity and good concentration of very resplendent red fruit. Freshness, balance and refinement will keep this for the long haul, even if it's not particularly concentrated.
Guido Porro, Vigna Lazzairasco	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	94	An intoxicating rosebud note jumps out of the glass at first impression. Orange peel and cherry swiftly follow. The graceful palate features vibrant, juicy fruit and soft, silky tannins, with almost racy acidity and a savoury character. The drinkability is impressive for a young Barolo, especially considering the 2017 vintage conditions. Chapeau! I would not cellar this for too long.
Marchesi di Barolo, Sarmassa	Barolo (Barolo)	94	A tantalisingly fresh profile of red berries with a smoky, almost peaty, character, and astonishing scents of rose, balsam and liquorice in depth. Deep and dark on the palate, it has good concentration and sucrosity, with ripe tannins and crisp acidity balancing the warming alcohol. An authentic interpretation of Sarmassa and its graceful style in a warm vintage.
Mauro Veglio, Paiagallo	Barolo (Barolo)	94	Mauro Veglio's property in Paiagallo is at mid-altitude in what is called Vigna San Sebastiano, bordering Terlo, to which it is closer in style than the opposite side of the MGA. Garnet in colour, it has notes of watermelon, earthy strawberry and lemon leaf. Elegance and freshness prevail over the powerful palate. Nevertheless, it is full bodied, well extracted and with sweet tannins. Citrus notes and liquorice emerge on the finish. This style, with fermentation in rotomacerator and ageing in French oak barrique, tamed the austere 2017 vintage quite well.
Michele Chiarlo, Cerequio	Barolo (La Morra)	94	Cerequio lies on a calcareous clay marl of sedimentary marine origin from the Tortonian period, covering 2.5 hectares with south/southwest exposure. Chiarlo owns plots on both sides of the Cerequio slope. It has earthy tones and minty notes, full of balsamic aromas. In the mouth it is dominated by supple cherry fruit, assertive acidity, and tannins which are muscular yet ripe and coat the palate. The finish lacks a bit of finesse at present, but it's full of savoury character.
Monchiero, Montanello	Barolo (Castiglione Falletto)	94	The Montanello MGA can be divided into two distinct subzones: the hill below Cascina Montanello and the slope around Cascina Ernestina. The soil is a combination of marls and Diano sandstone. Bright ruby, this is intensely floral with an aristocratic pot-pourri character. The palate is cherry-fruited with a touch of blood orange and sweet spice over a tight-knit structure of remarkable firm, chalky tannins and crisp acidity. The long finish is reminiscent of a pot-pourri flourish. Full-bodied and foursquare, it should improve with ageing - its potential for the long haul is great.
Paolo Scavino, Bric del Fiasc	Barolo (Castiglione Falletto)	94	Fiasco MGA should be considered a kind of Villero extension. Comparing the two, however, Fiasco often has a structure and character rather similar to Villero but lacks its depth and austerity. This wine has a classic profile of rose petal, wild red and black fruits, and a depth of liquorice root and tar. The attack is polished but concentrated, with ripe, dusty tannins and integrated acidity. A classic example, more elegant than powerful, it's worth waiting for more complexity to evolve.
Schiavenza, Broglio	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	94	Schiavenza's vineyards, despite Broglio's southeast exposure, lie on an almost fully south-facing turn in the slope. Bright garnet in the glass, the wine opens up with an intense orange peel aroma along with cherry fruit and a whiff of mint in depth. Very savoury and meaty on the palate, it shows assertive, dusty yet ripe tannins typical of the cru. It's fierce and chewy due to crisp, almost zesty acidity. A great example of the austere wines typical of Serralunga, built to last.
Borgogno, Cannubi	Barolo (Barolo)	93	Borgogno's Cannubi is spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts for about 12 days in concrete tanks at a controlled temperature, followed by submerged-cup maceration for 40-50 days then ageing for more than 36 months in large oak vessels. Forward citrus notes are followed by watermelon and mint. In the mouth, dense, velvety tannins occupy the mid-palate, the wine's pomegranate flavours well integrated with good acidity. There's good concentration and refinement here, but it lacks a bit of restraint and the finish is rather austere.
Brovia, Brea Ca' Mia	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	93	A super-classic Barolo from Serralunga with the reserved character of Brea and its refined tannins. Bright yet restrained pomegranate aromas and flavours are joined by smoky minerality. It's not full bodied - instead it's tight and elegant with extracted yet polished tannins and good length. A clean, precise wine, it suffers slightly from a dry finish at present.
Carlo Revello, Giachini	Barolo (La Morra)	93	Similar to Rocche dell'Annunziata, which is nearby, Giachini has a more fleshy character. Carlo Revello's style is modern, using horizontal rotofermenters and French oak barriques for ageing 24 months (using 20% new and 80% used oak). This 2017 is surprisingly fresh, focused on leafy lightness, citrus notes and red fruits. There's clarity of fruit definition on the palate, with ripe tannins and great freshness - which will keep it going strong for years to come - then an elegant depth of spice and liquorice on the finish.
Cascina Bongiovanni	Barolo (Castiglione Falletto)	93	Davide Mozzone has managed this estate since he inherited it from his grandfather. Based in Castiglione Falletto, his style is polite and fresh. He uses French oak barriques, however the percentage of new and second-fill barrels is determined after assessing the wine once it has finished fermenting. 'The period of permanence in the barrels also depends on the structure that the wine shows during ageing,' he added. The ruby-red wine has tantalising fresh red fruits, limpid in definition, with notes of lemon leaf and liquorice. This is very typical of young Nebbiolo, with a savoury palate of tar, liquorice and dried cherry. Firm acidity and tannins appear on the attack but the grainy, youthful structure is ripe at the end. Very good.
Cavalier Bartolomeo, San Lorenzo	Barolo (Barolo)	93	From the heart of Barolo arrives this selection from Dario Borgogno's family estate, managed in a traditional style. The wine shows a lemon leaf aroma and filigreed freshness, followed by an exquisite wild strawberry and smoky character. Dense, supple plum and cherry fruits are accompanied by grainy, youthful tannins and chewy, integrated acidity. On the finish it displays very good ripeness with just a touch of dusty austerity. Only around 1,000 bottles produced.
Domenico Clerico	Barolo (Monforte d’Alba)	93	Despite an austere tannic finish - rather common in the 2017 vintage - this is a very good example of a classic Barolo. It's a blend of vineyards in Monforte d'Alba, which suggests it will have more structure and less fruit than, for example, Barolo or La Morra, and this bears out when tasting it. Extremely pale ruby in colour - not garnet yet - it shows an intense nose of dried cherry and violet, with whiffs of tar and liquorice. On the palate it has an aristocratic character, with some fresh fruit flavours including a touch of blood orange, but it's firm and quite austere, underlined by crisp acidity and not totally balanced by the fruit.
E. Molino, Bricco Rocca	Barolo (La Morra)	93	The son of Ernesto Molino, Sergio farms just 2.5 hectares in La Morra. His micro-boutique winery, however, deserves attention for the quality of its wines. This 2017 is precise, with a leafy lightness joined by red berry aromas. The composed velvety palate displays overall elegance, the concentration of fruit balancing the extraction of ripe tannins. It has good length with liquorice and graphite minerality. Still in oak, what I tasted was a barrel sample.
Ferdinando Principiano, Ravera di Monforte	Barolo (Monforte d’Alba)	93	Ferdinando Principiano is an organic Barolo producer which practises minimal intervention in the vineyard as well as in the winery, and is a producer to seek out for its expression of Ravera di Monforte. Dense ruby in colour and densely floral, it also has notes of dried cherry and liquorice. The palate is supple at first then firms up. It's dusty but ripe, with good extraction on the mid-palate. Full of blood orange flavours and slightly oxidative in style, this is a crunchy, layered wine with a lighter structure in this vintage, but displays complexity and amazing drinkability and has enough grip for ageing.
Figli Luigi Oddero, Rocche Rivera	Barolo (Castiglione Falletto)	93	Named after Arnaldo Rivera, the former mayor of Castiglione Falletto, the Rocche Rivera vineyard is located in the Scarrone MGA with a southeast exposure at around 300 metres above sea level. Extremely pale ruby in the glass, a charming, decadent nose of spring flowers, dried cherry, subdued blood orange and liquorice root is followed by a tense palate with chalky tannins, almost zesty acidity and moderate fruit concentration, even if well defined. Brilliant and lively, with a cherry kernel finish.
Fratelli Revello, Conca	Barolo (La Morra)	93	A modern Barolo vinified using rotofermenters, then racked off to be transferred into French oak for malolactic fermentation and ageing. The wine is open-knit, intoxicating with its notes of dried orange peel and red berries, not without earthy minerality. The tannins are super-refined; dusty yet velvety, muscular but mature and just dense enough. The acidity is refreshing, maintaining enough tension despite the wine's round, approachable style.
Fratelli Seghesio	Barolo (Monforte d’Alba)	93	From Castelletto in Monforte, this Barolo is produced with a selection of 25-30-year-old vines, younger than those used for the estate's La Villa bottling. A restrained character prevails on the nose, although offering up tar, dried cherry, and rhubarb flavoured boiled sweets. With time, pomegranate and violet emerge in the glass, remaining intense on the palate and through to the finish. Tight and firm with dusty, assertive tannins and bracing acidity, the wine is balanced and full bodied, with an austere finish.
Garesio	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	93	This blend of different plots from Serralunga shines for its balance. Not so pale in terms of colour, it has a classic nose of smoky woodland, pomegranate and rosehip, with a touch of leather and balsamic depth. The attack is firm, with lifted acidity and dusty ripe tannins building weight on the mid-palate. A bit more elegance would make this more accessible now, but the fruit concentration means it has cellar potential. Aged in mostly Slavonian oak, with some French barriques too.
Giovanni Rocca, Ravera di Monforte	Barolo (Monforte d’Alba)	93	Ravera di Monforte (to be not confused with Ravera in Novello) is one of the southernmost MGAs in Monforte, on the border with Mosconi and Le Coste on the west side and facing Serralunga Boscareto and Francia on the northeast side. Liquorice, cherry, cranberry, smoky woodland and Parma violet aromas are followed by a graceful palate despite its firm structure. The tannins are ripe, evolved and velvety, with a slightly rough character on the finish. The acidity is brilliant, and being youthful and so intense this will evolve well, developing more complexity as all the elements become better integrated.
Le Cecche, Bricco San Pietro	Barolo (Monforte d’Alba)	93	Le Cecche is a relatively young (for Barolo) winery founded in 2002 by Belgian Jan de Bruyne. The south-facing vineyards within Bricco San Pietro are at rather high altitudes of between 350 and 400 metres: quite an important detail in the warm 2017 vintage. The wine is aged in French tonneaux as well as barriques, of which 30% are new, for at least 24 months. The wine is fresh and characterised by a lemon leaf, almost lemongrass, aroma with smoky woodland and rhubarb in depth. The supple palate is extremely well balanced with refined ripe tannins, intense strawberry fruit, and lifted natural acidity. Just a bit warming on the finish, it's otherwise very good and not difficult to drink.
Oddero, Villero	Barolo (Castiglione Falletto)	93	Mariacristina Oddero manages 1.6 hectares in Villero, with full southern exposure in a warm vineyard based on a fairly high percentage of clay. Comparing this vintage to the cooler 2016 and 2013, it seems that it's best suited to cooler rather than warmer years. Nevertheless this Villero shines for vibrancy of fruit - strawberry, cherry and even some dark fruits - with an elegant Parma violet aroma and a balsamic touch of rosemary. Full and tannic, more chalky than dusty, with a ripe finish sustained by almost zesty acidity, ending with a rather bloody, black cherry aftertaste.
Pietro Rinaldi, Monvigliero	Barolo (Verduno)	93	At the northern end of the appellation, Monvigliero is well known for producing a different Barolo, lighter, more approachable and mostly elegant. This example from Rinaldi shows a smoky character with strawberry jam wrapped up in violets and a hit of rose. It's floral on the palate too, built on racy acidity and firm, rather extracted tannins which slow down its drinkability.
Pio Cesare	Barolo	93	This year's releases are poignant as Pio Boffa recently passed away. This is the estate's classic Barolo, produced with Nebbiolo grapes located in the top plots across different communes since 1881. The wine is floral, focused on violet and rose, with a blood orange touch, yet a darker fruit and chocolatey flavour. Firm, extracted and rugged at present, with a good but austere finish, it will age gracefully.
Pressenda, Bricco San Pietro	Barolo (Monforte d’Alba)	93	Diego Pressenda's family were originally sharecroppers in Torricella, but he began buying up properties when he was just 18 years old and established himself as a winemaker. Now over 70, his La Torricella estate is located within Bricco San Pietro, in the Manzoni subzone. Despite young vines planted in 2008, this wine shows good maturity. It has notes of mint, strawberry and violet, with olives and game in depth. It's firm and crunchy on the mid-palate, with zesty acidity and good integration. The finish is austere yet ripe, with a long liquorice aftertaste.
Massolino, Vignarionda Riserva	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	98	Massolino not only manages the biggest part of Vignarionda, but also - in my opinion - it has to be said that this estate has the merit to the increased reputation of this cru in the past 20 years. The riserva 2015 is concentrated in the glass, more than usual, with dense ruby colour. Restrained cherry fruit, melted with rosehip, vibrant minerality and a balsamic touch dominates the nose, while brighter bloody orange flavour the palate. Broad, full bodied, velvety and naturally refreshing, this powerful Barolo ends with thick mass of tannins, young yet resulted from outstanding maturity. To cellar for the long haul, (if you can wait).
Ettore Germano, Lazzarito Riserva	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	97	Extremely pale and brick coloured, typical of Serralunga, this is intensely scented with macerated violets, roses, blood orange and rhubarb root. The palate is fiercely fresh, with a red berry character and full body with a lot of weight. Ripe, velvety tannins and lifted acidity give a tense, elegant style, and it ends with fragrant fresh fruit - promising for a long cellaring. Like Gabutti and Parafada, Lazzarito is one of the oldest and best known crus in Serralunga. Coming from a very old vineyard, the grapes are macerated for 50 -60 days with several pumpovers to aid maximum extraction, then aged in 20hL oak vessels for 36 months.
Figli Luigi Oddero, Vignarionda Riserva	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	97	It's not always easy to describe the intoxicating complexity and elegance of Vignarionda in Serralunga d'Alba. The vibrancy of earthy strawberry which becomes richer cherry on the palate; the fresh rose and violet waeving; the spicyness among a touch of tar, licorice stick and smoky woodland, with wax and balsamic tones peeping out of the depth. On the palate this vintage shines for watermelon flavour, firm grainy tannins and lifted acidity, over supple fruit and incredibly elegant lenght. Outstanding.
Cavallotto, Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe Riserva	Barolo (Castiglione Falletto)	96	Alfio Cavallotto, a well known organic producer in Castigione Falletto, owns 15.5 hectares of Bricco Boschis from its total of 17 ha - it was a monopole of the estate until 2014. Vigna San Giuseppe is located at the top of the cru, where the soils are even sandier than in other parts of the MGA, due to the simultaneous presence of Diano sandstones and sandy Sant’Agata Fossili marls. His 2015 is as much austere as detailed: rose, plum and prune aromas are joined by smoky woodland and a depth of forest floor. Prunes appear on the palate too, with an earthy minerality and muscular yet ripe, sweet tannins due to old vines (around 50 years old). This also displays refreshing acidity and balanced alcohol. Extremely consistent with the vintage, it is now available and ready for the long haul.
Oddero, Vigna Mondoca Riserva	Barolo (Bussia)	96	Vigna Mondoca is a warm cru with southern exposure within the broad Bussia MGA. A warm vintage combined with a warm cru over warm soil with almost no clay and primarily chalk, yet in the highest part of the Bussia. Restrained, the nose is full of plum and dark fruits, wild officinal herbs, liquorice and blood, developing on the palate with earthy tones, lively acidity and velvety, slightly oaky tannins. Concentrated and powerful, it's nevertheless graceful. To be released in the autumn.
Brezza, Sarmassa Vigna Bricco Riserva	Barolo (Barolo)	95	Fully exposed, the vineyard of Bricco Sarmassa is based on typical Sant’Agata Fossili marls and gains particular structure and weight compared to the other wines of the MGA. The winemaking doesn't differ from the estate's non-Riserva Sarmassa but Vigna Bricco ages for an extra year in bottle. Pale ruby in the glass, it's scented with rose and violet, typical of the cru, accompanied by red berries and pomegranate. More elegant than powerful, it doesn't lack weight despite a lean-styled body, with almost silky tannins. It doesn't have enormous complexity but is still extremely youthful in character.
Ca' Brusà, Bricco San Pietro Vigna d'Vai Riserva	Barolo (Monforte d’Alba)	95	Vigna d'vai is the heart of Bricco San Pietro, the biggest Mga of Barolo (bigger than Bussia), at the bottom of the Mga, in the centre of a kind of amphitheatre just below the road which crosses the hill. This riserva shows the typical colour of Barolo, bright ruby with brick rim. On the nose it results austere with restrained wild strawberry and red currant, spicy in depth with some leafy/minty notes. Not immediately very expressive. On the palate otherwise it flows full of fruit concentration with crisp acidity and ripe tannins, showing an outstanding balance. Not easy but good for ageing. I would decant it before drinking.
Giacomo Fenocchio, 90 dì Riserva	Barolo (Bussia)	95	90 dì', meaning 90 days, is the long-macerated Barolo Riserva produced only in the best vintages from talented winegrower Giacomo Fenocchio in Monforte, a key producer of Bussia. This Riserva benefits from the warm 2015 vintage, expressing a graceful floral character with slightly buttery and minty notes over watermelon fruit. The pulpy fruit and the tannins on the finish are quite raw and austere, but otherwise this is ripe and crunchy with an amazing fruit freshness that gives it ageing potential.
Cascina Ballarin, Bricco Rocca Riserva	Barolo (La Morra)	94	Bricco Rocca is rightly considered a more approachable Barolo, and its reputation is even more true in a warm vintage such as 2015. Based on typical Sant’Agata Fossili marls, it's well exposed and located just below Rocche dell'Annunziata. Intense dark ruby in colour, it has a plum fruit character on the nose, deliciously linked with earthy minerality and balsamic notes. Firm, muscular tannins give this good mid-palate weight, and it has a slightly dusty texture with a ripe finish and great fruit concentration and definition. Powerful yet elegant.
Palladino, San Bernardo Riserva	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	94	Imagine an inverted 'L' looking at the San Bernardo MGA within Serralunga: Palladino owns this part of the cru, which is the highest but also turns towards the south. This exposure in what could be considered a cooler flank of the village brings special complexity to this wine. Bright ruby with a brick rim, leathery notes over wild berries and bitter orange are suggestive of the complexity expressed by San Bernardo. The palate is crisp with refined, sweet tannins. It's tight yet not austere, warming at the end. Very classic; a brighter expression of Serralunga.
Sobrero, Pernanno Riserva	Barolo (Castiglione Falletto)	94	Pernanno has been produced as a Riserva since 1998. It's a one-hectare vineyard at 350 metres above sea level (relatively high in Barolo) with a southeast exposure. The wine is bright ruby with no garnet, and has an intense minty nose with citrus vibrancy in its Earl Grey, blood orange and smoky woodland layers. It has a minerally graphite flavour, chewy refined tannins and refreshing acidity in great balance. The warm vintage rounded the often more austere character of this wine.
Tenuta Carretta, Cannubi Riserva	Barolo (Barolo)	94	Produced in just 1.260 bottles this hommage to Franco Miroglio is one of the top wines of Tenuta Carreta. Small and fresh wild strawberry characterized the aroma, enhanced by watermelon, smoky woodland and balsamic depth. Firm, tannic, crisp and warming unfolds itself on the palate with tight-knit structure, a perfect balance and good sweet earthy strawberry finish.
Boasso, Margheria Riserva	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	93	Boasso's vineyards are at the bottom of the well known and rightly celebrated Margheria cru, just below Massolino and Azelia with the typical westerly exposure. The wines express a dark fruit profile with prunes, leather, earthy tones and dark chocolate. Smooth at first then firm on the mid-palate, it's intensely extracted - more powerful than elegant. It shows great balance overall, letting the old fashioned style of the estate emerge.
Bolmida, Riserva	Barolo (Bussia)	93	Macerated flowers, pot pourri, pomegranate, than earthy strawberry flavour make up the elegant style of this riserva with firm high almost aggressive acidity (possibly from a relatively high altitude at 400 metres above sea level), velvety tannins and chewy palate at the end. Fierce character from the Bussia obtained by this winegrower with precise handcrafted winemaking style. This Barolo ages for two years in barrique, than for an extra year in 75hl big oak vessels after the classical (for Nebbiolo) submerged cup maceration for around two months. Just around 2.000 bottles produced.
E Molino, Riserva del Fico Riserva	Barolo (La Morra)	93	E Molino is a boutique winery of 2.5 hectares managed by Sergio Molino. The grapes are fermented in small oak barrels with manual punching down and no temperature control, than aged in untoasted barriques in order to minimise any vanilla flavours. Garnet in colour, the nose is focused on plums and wild herbs, with a depth of forest floor, liquorice and tobacco. It shows complexity within a fresh profile. The palate is full bodied with dark fruits sustained by chewy, elegant tannins deliciously integrated with the acidity and fruit. This has grace, not just power.
Paolo Manzone, Riserva	Barolo (Serralunga d’Alba)	93	Between Baudana and Lazzarito, the Meriame MGA is deserving of more recognition for its quality. It lies in a small amphitheatre facing south and southwest of Castiglione Falletto, and Paolo Manzone's plot is planted with 65-year-old vines. The wine ages for three years in big oak casks, then for other two years in amphorae. Pale and garnet in colour, it is focused on fresh pomegranate and leafy lightness, with savoury blood orange and a hint of violet. Firm, dusty yet ripe tannins are balanced by firm acidity and good concentration. This will keep for the long haul. One to follow.
Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy, Camp Gros Martinenga Riserva	Barbaresco	96	The Camp Gros 2016 shines for its crystalline aromatic purity: light and leafy, it has pomegranate, camphor, violet and balsamic depth. Firm but polished, the palate is crisp and graceful, with a sumptuous mid-palate and an extremely savoury, liquorice-laden finish. Here one can appreciate the quality of the vintage through a respectful winemaking style. It's a wine built to last but - as for some of the greatest wines - is delicious to drink now.
Carlo Giacosa, Luca Riserva	Barbaresco	95	An extremely savoury Riserva with woodland smokiness, dried cherry and strawberry fruit, and floral and balsamic tones. The attack is firm and assertive, followed by a well-packed mid-palate perfectly reflecting the dried cherry on the nose. It's refreshing, almost salty, with a dusty but sweet finish which suggests satisfying near-term drinking. The grapes come from three different plots in Barbaresco, equivalent to 1.5 hectares among the 5ha of the estate. Fermented in stainless steel tank, the wine is then aged in 20hL oak cask for 30 months.
Cascina Luisin, Riserva	Barbaresco	94	Cascina Luisin is a very classic estate on the Strada Rabajà in Barbaresco. Old vines averaging 45 years and low yields of 40q/ha make for a sleek Riserva. It's fermented in concrete with malolactic conversion and ageing in 30hL Slavonian oak casks. The nose is open-knit but elegant, with smoky woodland notes as well as intense wild strawberry, cocoa powder and liquorice stick tones. Savoury and refined, it's firm and extracted on the mid-palate and displays layers of complexity.
Ugo Lequio, Gallina Riserva	Barbaresco	94	Gallina is a south-facing exposure, perfect for a classic vintage such as 2016, in one of the most structured MGAs in Neive. Ugo Lequio's vineyards here were planted in 1953, 1963 and 1971. The Riserva undergoes 20 months of ageing in 25hL Slavonian oak casks as well as 15 months in 5 to 7hL French barrels. Pale in the glass, its aromas focus on prunes and forest floor underpinned by citrus vibrancy. The palate is coated with velvety tannins, displaying freshness and density with a slightly dusty finish and not totally integrated alcohol. Overall, a high-flying traditionally styled Riserva.
Albino Rocca, Ronchi Riserva	Barbaresco	93	The beauty of the 2016 vintage is its restraint in youth, but its not easy to approach. It's a traditional vintage which might appeal to mature drinkers rather than drinkers with a sweet tooth. This Ronchi Riserva certainly lives up to the 'traditional' moniker. A restrained, super-fresh nose of red berries and violet is supported by a dense, opulent structure built to last. The palate is massive but ripe, with an elegant cherry kernel finish. It lacks a bit of complexity at present, but I would wait for it.
Castello di Neive, Albesani Santo Stefano Riserva	Barbaresco	93	Within the Albesani MGA, Santo Stefano represents the flagship of Castello di Neive's vineyards. Bright ruby with a garnet rim in the glass, it's focused on graphite minerality and dried cherry, completed by liquorice and a balsamic puff. More extracted than supple on the palate - despite a graceful attack - it is built with grainy, youthful, assertive but sweet tannins, and will develop amazing complexity in time.
Produttori del Barbaresco, Pora Riserva	Barbaresco	93	Since 1958, 50 families have come together in this cooperative in order to share their grape production, making some of the best Barbaresco wines from a quality-price point of view. The fierce, classic character of the five-starred 2016 vintage emerges in this ruby-coloured Riserva. It's intensely floral, with fruit aromas ranging between strawberry and raspberry. A mineral tone of petrichor or wet slate introduces a savoury character, joined by firm, chewy tannins and acidity, still rugged at present but often able to evolve. A complex wine worth seeking out, even if it's not easy to drink right now.
Bruno Rocca, Rabajà	Barbaresco	96	In this interpretation Rabajà is a vibrant, powerful wine, full of minerality. On the nose there is a stunning intensity of orange peel combined with fresh violets and wet slate, with whiffs of stone fruit and liquorice root. The attack is richer, highlighting the cherry fruit. Broad and lavish tannins of rare elegance don't mask the authentic character of Nebbiolo, perfectly woven with savoury citrus on the finish.
Ceretto, Asili	Barbaresco	96	The dense ruby colour immediately suggests good concentration in what was a relatively light vintage. Restrained and citrus scented, notes wander from Earl Grey to bitter orange. Later, pot pourri, dried cherry and civet emerge. Full bodied, this displays mid-palate weight with dense, lavish tannins underlined by crisp acidity. Rather foursquare, it shows great potential for ageing gracefully due to its tight-knit structure and fruit concentration. The oak is well judged.
Carlo Giacosa, Asili	Barbaresco	95	This Asili is a bracing Barbaresco of rare savouriness. Do not be deceived by the extremely pale ruby colour and the reserved nose. Aromas of rhubarb, whiffs of wild fowl, balsamic minerality and Parma violets are followed in the mouth by a firm, velvety attack of peony and earthy strawberry. It has integrated racy acidity and a savoury liquorice finish, with the grip of Nebbiolo. Great hallmark Asili.
Gaja	Barbaresco	95	In 2018 Gaja did not produce any Sorì. All the grapes of San Lorenzo and Tildin have been used for this Barbaresco instead. 'It was a classic vintage, such as 1991 or 1993,' said Rossana Gaja, 'however with 14% of alcohol.' It was cool and damp, so don't look for concentration, but the refinement and the freshness of this wine packs a punch. Scents of red berries, fresh violets, orange peel, wet slate and soft chocolate are followed by red fruit flavours. It's medium-bodied, loaded with polished tannins and lit up by racy acidity. More stylish than ageworthy, in my experience classic vintages such as this can give stunning results in the near term.
Bruno Rocca, Currà	Barbaresco	94	Currà is a relatively high MGA (between 270 and 300 metres above sea level) in Neive where the wines, compared to Barbaresco, have more delicacy and less structure. In the 2018 vintage Bruno Rocca achieved great complexity here with smoky woodland notes over dried cherries and raspberries, and some leafy lightness. Easy drinking and graceful, it has ripe tannins that are chalky on the finish, along with delicate refreshing acidity and rather good length.
Carlo Giacosa, Ovello	Barbaresco	94	Ovello is the northernmost vineyard in the village of Barbaresco. The calcareous marl soil typical of the region is enriched here with a bit more clay content. Alongside the the cooler microclimate, it gives a youthful character to the wines. Notes of Parma violets, dried cherry, raspberry jam, tar and liquorice are supported by an assertive structure of firm, muscular tannins with a dusty texture and crisp acidity. Rather tight on the finish, yet good with food.
Ceretto, Gallina	Barbaresco	94	An enticing complexity dominates this Gallina, with a multifaceted filigreed profile. Tar, chocolate, and macerated cherries and violets are followed by a full bodied, velvety yet tense palate. The chocolate-cherry profile on the nose returns on the palate, with a still ungainly finish which will evolve with ageing. More bold than sleek at present.
Bel Colle, Pajorè	Barbaresco	93	A very youthful Barbaresco, mostly floral with bright fresh fruit which well represent the essence of the vintage from a noble cru such as Pajorè. Clean and precise red berries, almost tart, are loaded with fresh violets but there's not third dimension at present. On the palate pomegranate juice and black pepper flavours are woven with good tannins, ripe yet underlined by firm, racy acidity. It has a tense profile which gives the wine energy - a good omen for ageing.
Bruno Rocca	Barbaresco	93	This Barbaresco seems to epitomise the 2018 vintage: tantalising aromas of fresh cranberry, violet, rose petal and whiffs of tar lead to a soft attack full of delicacy, freshly fruited and wrapped up in sweet, crunchy tannins and vibrant acidity. It's not particularly concentrated or built for the long haul, but its balance and stylish character make it one of the most authentic representations of the vintage in Barbaresco.
Cascina Luisin, Rabajà	Barbaresco	93	A very traditional boutique winery of Barbaresco, based in Rabajà. Here, the combination of the MGA's structure and power with the lightness of the vintage have found a good balance. A classic nose, savoury and mineral with wild strawberry, medicinal herbs and a lot of leafy lightness, is followed by a velvety, dense, savoury attack with firm acidity. The texture of the tannins is remarkably good for the vintage. Youthful and ageworthy.
Cascina Morassino, Ovello	Barbaresco	93	From the cooler Ovello in the cool 2018 vintage, this classic Barbaresco is highlighted by developed aromas of smoke, medicinal herbs, violet and earthy minerality. A bony style with firm tannins prevails on the palate, showing some austerity with a blood orange flavour and savoury aftertaste with a touch of mint.
Ceretto	Barbaresco	93	A blend of different plots from Treiso and Barbaresco, this has poised aromas of dried cherry and smoky woodland, with whiffs of rhubarb and flowers. The palate is loaded with firm yet polished tannins, and it has an amazing weight for a 2018, accompanied by crisp acidity and what seems to be the best quality of this wine: a stunning savouriness.

See also

Piedmont vintage reports

Piedmont vintage guide

Best Italian wines: A selection of the greatest