A guide to the cru classé wines of Provence

Wine lovers will recognise the term, most notably from the wines of Bordeaux. But what does cru classé mean in Provence? With only 18 estates holding this title, the rarity lends it a strong marketing pull and has recently encouraged big outside investment, but it doesn’t always indicate quality. Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Elizabeth Gabay MW's top cru classé wines of Provence [subscriber-content] What does cru classé mean in Provence? Parallels with Bordeaux’s 1855 Grands Crus Classés system are frequently made, but only insofar as having a historical backstory. Provence’s cru classé status is attributed to an estate, or indeed the legal company behind the estate, rather than to a terroir, and applies to all wines from an estate, wherever their vineyards are located, in all three colours and at all price points, as long as the wines are labelled under the Côtes de Provence appellation. [caption id="attachment_506042" align="aligncenter" width="630"] Credit: Château Roubine www.chateauroubine.com[/caption] Somewhat confusingly, in the Côtes de Provence appellation rulebook the cru classé designation is not distinguished by a higher quality level, and does not officially indicate a superior wine. The cru classé wines must adhere to the same standards as any other Côtes de Provence wine, without any additional requirements. In this sense, the cru classé distinction is more historical than anything else, and further estates cannot become cru classé today. This is different, for example, from the official terroir designations that exist for the five Côtes de Provence sub-regions, which are assigned based on terroir. Coming soon: A guide to the Côtes de Provence sub-regions

The 18 estates together make over 100 different wines – rosé, white and red – that are labelled as cru classé. [breakout] The 18 cru classé estates of Provence: Château de Brégançon, Bormes

Château de l’Aumérade, Hyères

Château de la Clapière, Hyères

Château de Mauvanne, Les Salins-d’Hyères

Château de St-Martin, Taradeau

Château du Galoupet, La Londe

Château Minuty, Gassin

Château Roubine, Lorgues

Château St-Maur, Cogolin

Château Ste-Roseline, Les Arcs

Clos Cibonne, Le Pradet

Domaine de la Croix, La Croix-Valmer

Domaine de la Source – Ste-Marguerite, La Londe

Domaine de Rimauresq, Pignans

Domaine du Noyer, Clos Mistinguett, Bormes

Domaines Ott, Château de Selle, Taradeau

Domaines Ott, Clos Mireille, La Londe

Jas d’Esclans, La Motte

Five additional estates that were on the original list but no longer exist: Clos de la Bastide Verte, La Garde Clos du Relais, Lorgues Coteau du Ferrage, Pierrefeu Domaine de la Grande-Loube, Hyères Domaine des Moulières, La Valette

[/breakout] Provence cru classé: a history Today’s list of cru classé estates is derived from a classification that was made in 1955, created after a few confusing years of inclusions, exclusions, partial admissions and internal politics. It all started in 1895 when a small group of property owners in the Var decided to group together to improve the quality and marketing of their wines. There followed, in the early 20th century, a surge in the development of quality wine in Provence: Cassis was granted appellation status in 1936 and Bandol in 1941. The Var’s other producers were keen to compete. A shortlist was drawn up in 1943, which even included Château Simone (a renowned estate in the Palette appellation). [caption id="attachment_506057" align="aligncenter" width="630"] Credit: Château de St-Martin. www.vins.chateaudesaintmartin.com[/caption] By 1947, the final list had 23 estates. Other producers could also apply to join the list, subject to meeting the prerequisite criteria, and theoretically cooperatives were also allowed to join. The criteria for initial membership stipulated that wines must be estate-bottled, with a minimum of 18 months ageing and with strict control of varieties used. Additionally, the age-worthiness of the wines needed to be demonstrated through the presentation of at least three vintages of red wine. Arguably an estate’s original location played a part in its ascension to cru classé status – 15 estates from the original list were located near the coast, with the others along the main railway line, prime locations which gave these estates a keen advantage, better access to bottling lines and a network for sales. The cru classé estates today [caption id="attachment_506060" align="aligncenter" width="630"] The 12th century abbey at Château Ste Roseline. Credit: www.sainte-roseline.com[/caption] One thing that many of the cru classé estates have in common is their picture-perfect old Provençal villas, with long family histories, often located on former Roman sites and church properties. Château Ste Roseline is as much visited for its 12th century abbey, the mummified remains of Ste Roseline and its contemporary art collection as for its wine. This estate was a major producer in the early days, conveniently located with easy transport links. [caption id="attachment_506045" align="aligncenter" width="630"] Château de Brégancon. Credit: www.chateau-de-bregancon.com[/caption] Historically the cru classé estates were the most innovative: bringing in Rolle from the Bellet appellation, and using longer oak ageing, resulting in a strong reputation for red and white wines. Today, unfortunately they are among the least innovative in terms of rosé production, with a few exceptions: Château de St-Martin’s new premium rosé aged in acacia and mulberry barrels; Château du Galoupet’s focus on sustainability; Domaine de Rimauresq’s full-bodied, gastronomic style Cuvée Rebelle; and Clos Cibonne’s highly lauded, premium wines. [breakout] Surprisingly few Provence rosés are bottled in dark-coloured glass. But if the age-worthiness of rosé is to be taken seriously, the use of dark glass bottles should be considered, as it prolongs the wine’s life, protecting it from light strike. The few exceptions among the cru classé estates are Clos Cibonne, Château Galoupet, and the top wines of Château St-Martin and Château St-Maur. [/breakout] With a history of commercial success, and inevitably higher quality wines, the question today is whether the wines can still distinguish themselves as being premium quality. The wines are typically sold at a premium price point, yet show no unifying taste of terroir or style. Despite this, they are often above average quality – although sadly not always. The luxury goods group LVMH has bought three cru classé estates since 2019 – Château du Galoupet, Jas d’Esclans and Château Minuty; Pernod Ricard purchased Château Ste Marguerite; and Roederer purchased Château de Selle and Clos Mireille. Whether as a group the cru classé estates can uphold their historic aim of age-worthy, premium and innovative wines remains to be seen, however the large scale investment in these estates, as well as the involvement of Kylie Minogue at Château Ste Roseline, will certainly raise the profile and volume of the wines – and hopefully the quality, too. [caption id="attachment_459185" align="aligncenter" width="630"] One of Kylie Minogue's rosé wines, made at Château Ste Roseline, is a cru classé.[/caption] [breakout] Provence cru classé timeline: 1895 - First informal group of producers gather to promote the wines of Provence. 1931 - The Syndicat de Défense des Côtes de Provence was created. 1943 - Shortlist of estates drawn up for evaluation. 1947 - The Institut National de l'Origine et de la Qualité selected 23 estates as part of a study to evaluate the terroir, quality and reputation of each domaine. 1955 - Key conditions for accession to cru classé status confirmed and final list determined. 1977 - Appellation Côtes de Provence was created. 2005 - Cru classé estates signed a Charte d'Excellence to maintain quality [/breakout] [/subscriber-content] Gabay's selection of the best Provence cru classé wines to try: [wine-collection] Related articles Château Galoupet: bees and biodiversity to the fore Provence for wine lovers What makes a premium rosé plus 12 to seek out