A place in the sun: The Rhône's white grapes take root in Australia

Michael Hall grew up in England, but moved to Australia at the age of 40 to follow his dream of becoming a winemaker. Having settled in Barossa , naturally he turned to Shiraz . But he wanted to make white wines too. Riesling and Semillon are widespread there, but he opted for a more unusual grape: Roussanne . Cool climate wines might get more column inches, but, like Southern France, Italy and Greece, Australia makes some delicious whites from warm areas too. Hall is one of many winemakers getting their inspiration from the Rhône . Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for some of Australia's best examples of white Rhône grapes [subscriber-content] Northern Rhône varieties Some of the first red varieties planted in Australia were Grenache and Syrah , but white Rhône varieties are largely much more recent. There are some early plantings of Marsanne however. Tahbilk, located in the Nagambie Lakes region of central Victoria , has vines dating back to 1927. It’s a lean, bone-dry expression that has more in common with Hunter Valley Semillon than Hermitage , but has a personality all of its own. [caption id="attachment_536312" align="alignnone" width="300"] Old Marsanne vines in Tahbilk's 1927 vineyard[/caption] Despite Tahbilk’s success, Marsanne has largely failed to flourish elsewhere in Australia. One notable exception is made by Ben Haines in the Yarra Valley. Like some types of Sherry , it spends time under flor, and then ages oxidatively for 10 years before bottling. The result is a unique style of dry unfortified white that will richly reward intrepid drinkers with open minds. Rhône-lovers will be on more familiar ground with Australian Roussanne, a grape that’s seen stunning success in McLaren Vale . Peter Fraser, winemaker at Yangarra, has planted all of the 13 permitted Châteauneuf-du-Pape varieties except Picardan. His pure Roussanne, named Roux Beauté, stands up to the finest French examples. Thistledown and d’Arenberg provide further evidence of its promise here; while Yeringberg flies the flag for Yarra Valley, and Giaconda for Beechworth. While Marsanne gets uncomfortable in the heat, Roussanne is more accommodating. As Hall has proved, it can even excel in Barossa. He’s not alone; Yelland & Papps and Lienert have also enjoyed success there. [caption id="attachment_536308" align="alignnone" width="300"] Winemaker Peter Fraser has planted Roussanne at Yangarra[/caption] Viognier pioneers Though it represents just 1.6% of total white plantings in Australia, Viognier is the most widespread of all white Rhône varieties (figures from Wine Australia’s Viognier Snapshot 2022-2023 ). Yalumba was the first winery to establish a commercial vineyard in the Eden Valley in 1980 and it was hailed at the time as the Next Big Thing. D’Arenberg was first to plant it in McLaren Vale in 1995. ‘It really took off,’ says owner and chief winemaker Chester Osborn. ‘Then a lot of people made really average Viognier.’ It’s a fickle variety, and determining the picking date is tricky. Too early, and the results are thin and insipid; too late, and it becomes heavy and oily. [caption id="attachment_536313" align="alignnone" width="300"] Yalumba's Virgilius Viognier vineyard[/caption] Even those making good examples gave up due to resistance from customers as they didn’t know how to pronounce it. Production is now gently on the wane. Those who have persevered however have been rewarded, especially in cooler regions. Yalumba’s The Virgilius is considered the benchmark. For a rich style, try Yeringberg from the Yarra; for a brisker style, choose Tahbilk’s. Southern Rhône varieties Grenache has made huge strides in Australia over the past decade, and today it’s Australia’s most exciting red grape. So no wonder some growers are testing the waters with varietal Grenache Blanc. It’s a brave move. Despite Grenache Blanc being the most widely planted white variety in the Rhône Valley, its strength is as a blending grape. Barely any Rhône estates bottle pure Grenache Blanc, as it can lack personality. Results in Australia are mixed, but it can be worth pursuing. Aphelion in McLaren Vale, and Tscharke and Schwarz Wine Co in Barossa lead the way. [caption id="attachment_536314" align="alignnone" width="300"] Grenache Blanc grapes at Willunga 100[/caption] Though plantings of Grenache Gris are still minute, those who grow it are enthusiastic. Similarly, the amount of Clairette produced is tiny. But given its climatic suitability this will surely change. Spinifex in Barossa shows it has great potential. Though more commonly associated with the Languedoc, Picpoul is also grown in the Southern Rhône – and I was surprised to find several examples in South Australia. According to Fraser at Yangarra, Picpoul ‘is showing promise… gaining interest and momentum’, thanks to its fresh, crisp profile. Evolution Australia isn’t the only country outside France experimenting with white Rhône varieties; South Africa in particular has been successful. Indeed, their white blends have contributed to the recent renaissance of the Cape’s wine scene. The power of blends is that they express place rather than varietal character. In doing so, they helped South African terroirs find their voice. [caption id="attachment_536310" align="alignnone" width="300"] Renae Hirsch, winemaker at Willunga 100[/caption] Could the same happen in Australia? It’s possible, but drinkers in Australia tend to prefer varietal wines, so progress will be gradual. There are several excellent blends emerging however, such as Yangarra’s Ovitelli Blanc, Coriole’s Sandalwood and Thistledown’s Walking with Kings. Willunga 100 is known for its Grenache, but ace winemaker Renae Hirsch is keen to add a white to the range. She’s planting a field blend of Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne, Picpoul and Grenache Gris. ‘Let’s stick to the Rhône thing we’ve got going here,’ she says. It’s an old-school approach, but to me it sounds like progress. [/subscriber-content] Australian wines from white Rhône grapes to try [wine-collection] Related articles Australian Chenin Blanc: 15 of the best bottles available today Collector’s Guide: Rhône Around Australia in 20 wines: Matthew Jukes’ selection

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