Berry Bros & Rudd: Autumn and Christmas wine picks

The UK’s oldest wine and spirit merchant, Berry Bros & Rudd was founded in London in 1698. The business began as a grocer, located opposite St James’s Palace, owned by the Widow Bourne. Her descendants continued to run the business through successive generations, becoming suppliers to the Royal Family under George III in 1760. George Berry came to the company in the early 19th century, via marriage and business partnerships. He increasingly focused trade on wine sales. Under his sons George and Henry the business began trading as Berry Bros in 1845. Hugh Rudd joined the company in 1920. From a family of Norwich wine merchants, he helped to establish the firm’s vinous connections and credentials. The business was renamed Berry Bros & Rudd in the 1940s. Scroll down to see Decanter's picks from BBR's autumn/winter selection [subscriber-content] Expansion & innovation The company remains in family hands today and despite its historic legacy, has pioneered innovations. It was the first independent wine merchant to build temperature-controlled wine cellars in 1967 and, in 1994, launched bbr.com, the very first wine merchant’s website in the UK. This autumn saw the first-ever Berry Bros & Rudd online fine wine auction . Featuring bottles from the private cellar of Ian Mill KC, considered one of the greatest collections of Burgundy in the world, the auction ran until 6 November. The sale was 100% sold, achieving over £500,000 leading to it being hailed a 'resounding success' . Best value buys for autumn If you’re looking to buy now rather than bid, however, the new autumn selection has plenty of options. As ever, the classic French regions are well represented, with prices ranging from top-end Bordeaux châteaux to the ever-dependable Good Ordinary Claret (£13.50). While the big-name châteaux are always a draw for collectors, Berrys’ good value Own Selection wines offer reliable drinking pleasure at more accessible price points. One of my favourites is the Berry Bros own-label Bourgogne Côte d’Or Pinot Noir by Benjamin Leroux 2022 (£26.50). A fixture in the own-label range since 2019, it offers such great value for the price. It’s also worth seeking out the own-label Berry Bros & Rudd Châteauneuf-du-Pape by Château la Nerthe 2020 (£33.25), an appealing red made by Rémi Jean. While fizz fans should try Berry Bros & Rudd Rosé by Leclerc Briant (£55), a zesty and fruity rosé that’s a good aperitif style Champagne. Looking beyond French selections, Berry Bros joined forces with stellar South African winemaker Eben Sadie to produce its own-label Swartland Red and White last year. A new listing for autumn, the second white vintage is astonishing value for money at £34.50. A real show-stopper of a wine, it’s a complex blend of 13 varieties – including Chenin Blanc, Palomino, Assyrtiko, Roussanne and Grillo – that delivers terrific purity and energy (full tasting note below) . Burgundy New to the Burgundy portfolio is Chablis producer Famille Grossot. ‘It’s one I chased for a few years before finally being granted an allocation in the 2022 vintage,’ says Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy and Loire buyer. ‘The wines are classically styled, and usually need a bit of time in bottle to show at their best, but they age beautifully. The farming is organic and I love La Part des Anges, a village wine that would put many premiers crus to shame,’ he adds. Bruntlett’s must-buy wine is Camille Giroud, Morey-St Denis 2021 , available in magnum for £150. ‘This is really singing despite its youth,’ he says. ‘2021 for me is such a fresh and crunchy vintage, that it’s great to drink now and enjoy the bright, crisp fruit and pretty, floral aromatics. I enjoyed this so much when tasting from barrel, that we had it bottled in magnum for us. 'Give it a little air, and watch it unfurl beautifully over the course of an evening, or cellar for a few years and wait for some leafy development.’ Loire & Languedoc In the Loire line-up, two new Anjou producers are worth seeking out: Domaine Belargus and Terra Vita Vinum. Bruntlett also highlights the new 2022 vintage of Daniel Chotard Sancerre Blanc at £23.95. ‘It is such a characterful and complex wine for a modest price,’ he says. ‘40% of the wine is fermented and aged on lees in foudre and this, along with picking ripe fruit and using indigenous yeasts, ensures a wine that really punches above its weight.’ Yoan Bernard, fine wine buyer, recommends Charles Joguet’s Clos de la Dioterie Chinon 2017 (£55). ‘Anne-Charlotte Genet and Kevin Fontaine have been doing an outstanding job at the domaine in the last few years,’ he says. ‘The fact that you can still get Joguet’s top cuvées Clos de la Dioterie and Clos du Chene Vert on release for sub-£50 is mind-blowing. I am not going to complain as this is one of my go-to Loire reds! It is one of the only Cabernet Franc Loire wines whose freshness and purity has always amazed me.’ Meanwhile senior buyer Catriona Felsted MW recommends the new vintage of Domaine Peter Sichel Vielles Vignes Roussanne from the Languedoc . ‘When Alexander Sichel took over this property in 2019, he was determined to put the small, hidden valley of Cucugnan on the map. He was also passionate about the environment and about making this an ultra-sustainable domaine,’ she explains. ‘Since then, he has worked with a Dutch university to introduce the renowned biodiversity of the area into his vineyards as native cover crops, as well as moving all the winemaking to concrete eggs and neutral, steam-shaped barrels. The result of his hard work is transparently clear with the release of his 2022 vintage; this gorgeous, refreshing and characterful Roussanne is peachy, vibrant and gloriously pure.’ Savoie & Champagne I’d also recommend trying one of Felstead’s new producers from Savoie : Domaine du Gringet. ‘How often do you get to taste a grape variety that you are likely never to have tasted before – and which is so rare that there are only 20ha of it in the world?’ she asks. ‘La Bergerie Vin de Savoie 2022 is made from 100% of that elusive Savoie variety, Gringet, by the estate that owns half of all those plantings. Gringet makes a truly fascinating wine here with sharp, crisp lemon notes beautifully complemented by aromas of Alpine flowers and herbal bay leaf. This is not only a delicious wine to drink but also a truly fascinating tasting experience,’ she adds. Also new to BBR this autumn are the Champagnes of Frédéric Savart. ‘He is one of the most famous and in-demand growers in the region. His wines excite and inspire drinkers and fellow winemakers alike,’ explains senior buyer Davy Zyw. ‘He uses low interventional methods to create vinous and textural Champagnes, which are terrior-driven and succulent.’ Italy & Spain From his Italian portfolio Zyw recommends the 2023 Casamatta Bianco by Bibi Graetz from Tuscany (tasting note below) . ‘A postcard of the Mediterranean sea,’ he says. ‘Made from the herbal and aromatic Ansonica grape, this wine tastes of white peach and sea breeze. It’s produced on the granitic island of Giglio off the Tuscan coast.’ The Spanish selection contained several of my autumn highlights, including my favourite wine of the tasting, Falcoeira A Capilla 2020, by one of Spain’s great winemakers Telmo Rodríguez (see tasting note below) . Made from a single vineyard site of native varieties, it’s a bewitching blend that’s beautifully perfumed, with a joyous sense of wild freedom to the palate and incredible presence. Only 2,664 bottles were made, so snap it up. A new addition to the BBR portfolio this autumn, La Rioja Alta will need little introduction to fine wine lovers. La Rioja Alta 890 Gran Reserva 2010 (£166) is a must-buy for Rioja lovers (see tasting note below) . From an acclaimed vintage, this is a beautifully harmonious wine that delivers hedonistic drinking pleasure now, but – as with all La Rioja Alta wines – is set to age beautifully. US heroes BBR also welcomes a new California producer to its portfolio this autumn. ‘Heitz Cellar has long been a name synonymous with elegant, high-quality wines,’ says Felstead. ‘What I most love about this 2018 Napa Cabernet though is just how refreshing it is. Don’t be put off by thinking this is rich, heavy Cabernet,’ she adds. ‘This is a sophisticated wine that’s brilliantly suited to our palate preferences this side of The Pond – and one that any Bordeaux drinker would appreciate. An absolute star of a more old-school Napa style made in a modern yet wonderfully refined way.’ (See tasting note below.) Heitz joins Central Coast producer Joey Tensley, which debuted in the BBR US portfolio last autumn. Felstead recommends his Fundamental Red 2021 . ‘Joey Tensley is an absolute master of making restrained Rhône -style blends that are perfectly poised yet wonderfully drinkable,’ she says. ‘This cherry-fruited wine is juicy and ripe yet refreshing and pure. It is so easy to enjoy both with or without food; it is the perfect party wine. We served this at our last Berry Bros & Rudd staff do and it went down a treat!’ [/subscriber-content] Top wines from Berry Bros & Rudd: 12 to try Selected by Natalie Earl and Julie Sheppard [wine-collection] Related articles Berry Bros & Rudd secures esteemed Burgundy collection for its first online auction Best buys at Majestic The Wine Society celebrates 150th anniversary with new series

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