Bordeaux 2014 revisited 10 years on

The 10-year-on mark is always a good time to stop and evaluate top-class Bordeaux. From perceived ‘good’ or ‘bad’ vintages, the wines will usually have lost some of their baby fat and be well into their stride in terms of drinkability and approachability. Following on the heels of three less than stellar vintages, 2014 was certainly the best so-called ‘off vintage’ since 2005, ranked alongside, or just ahead of 2001, 2006 and 2008, and generally superior to 2002, 2003, 2004, 2007, 2011 and of course 2013 (assessed by Stephen Brook in the Decanter Bordeaux guide last year). The 2014 growing season in Bordeaux was characterised by erratic weather patterns, including April sunshine but a wet and chilly May. Enough sun prevailed in June for the crucial flowering period, but a relatively cool and damp summer followed. These conditions led to uneven grape ripening and increased disease pressure in some vineyards. Scroll down to see notes and scores from the 10-year retrospective tasting [subscriber-content]However, six weeks of dry, warm and sunny weather from the last week of August to the first week of October helped to salvage the vintage, allowing grapes to reach optimal ripeness before harvests for the reds began towards the end of September. Overall, yields were lower than average due to weather related issues, but quality varied depending on vineyard management and grape selection. Stylistically, the 2014s can be considered ‘classic’, with balanced structures, crisp and crunchy fruit profiles and moderate alcohols of between 12.5% and 14% – the majority at 13%-13.5%. The wines are known for their aromatic complexity, elegance and refreshing acidity, which has aided, and will continue to aid ageing. You won’t find the intensity and depth of wines from 2005, 2009 and 2010, and some will lack concentration (an impression of leanness) and substance (some hollowness) on the mid-palate. Now's a good time Only a few wines are emerging into tertiary aroma and flavour territory, showing savoury, earthy notes and prominent minerality, as well as dry tannins on the finish. But you’ll find many delicious bottles that offer excellent drinking pleasure, as well as those that will continue to power ahead for at least the next two decades. Wines at the top end show a great level of precision and youth, still with lots of energy, tension and vibrancy, and, importantly, terroir signature, giving different expressions across the region. Appellations in the northern Médoc seem to have the edge, having received slightly less rainfall than further south and containing larger proportions in the blend of the later-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon, which benefited from what was ultimately a long growing season. Good buys still to be had Thanks to something of a correction in en primeur release prices, after the wild 2009 and 2010 campaigns, many of these 2014 wines found homes at the time and have offered some of the best financial returns of any vintage post-2008. A July 2023 article by Liv-ex, a global marketplace for the wine trade, cited several examples, including Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild with a 226% increase in market price since release, Château Margaux’s Pavillon Rouge at 119%, Châteaux d’Armailhac 105.1%, Beychevelle 61.5% and Duhart-Milon 57.7%. The 2014s were the cheapest per dozen to be released ex-London from 2009 to 2020 and, during last year’s 2022 Bordeaux en primeur campaign, wines from the 2014 vintage frequently stood out as a ‘compelling buying opportunity’, according to Liv-ex’s Fair Value statistical analysis method. 2014 remains one of the cheapest back vintages to buy since 2005, with the notable exception of the unheralded 2013s. While the list that follows features some extremely expensive bottles, there are still some real 2014 bargains to be found, both for cracking open and drinking right now, and holding onto for future enjoyment. [/subscriber-content] 10 years on: Hindle’s pick of 30 Bordeaux 2014 top-achievers Wines are listed by score, then alphabetically by producer. Stocks and pricing shown may be subject to change – please contact your regular merchants for advice and further details [wine-collection] Related articles How to blind taste Bordeaux Top value Bordeaux 2023 wines tasted en primeur Bordeaux 2020 in bottle

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Bordeaux 2014 revisited 10 years on

Scroll down to see notes and scores from the 10-year retrospective tasting

10 years on: Hindle’s pick of 30 Bordeaux 2014 top-achievers

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