Born of ash and fire: A taste of Lanzarote’s volcanic wines

Though the holiday island of Lanzarote seems an unlikely source for artisan wines made by hip and happening young winemakers, the island’s fast-developing wine scene is worthy of attention. Lanzarote has produced wine since the Spanish conquistadors colonised this Atlantic outpost in the 15th century. Scroll down for a selection of wines from Lanzarote [subscriber-content] From the volcanic ashes The industry all but disappeared as wines from Portugal and mainland Spain rose in popularity, but an ongoing renaissance is making the most of the island’s extraordinary volcanic landscape. The Timanfaya National Park enthrals first time visitors to Lanzarote. Huge lava fields and miles of volcanic ash have laid undisturbed since a series of volcanic eruptions in the 1730s. The eruptions carpeted one-third of the island, burying fertile ground beneath a pitch-black carapace where seemingly nothing lives or grows. It is here that most of Lanzarote’s vineyards are located. Ditches and deserts This geology alone demands new thinking on vine cultivation, but there is an added problem: Lanzarote is also a desert, seeing just 150mls of rain per year. The island’s unique solution is to plant each vine in its own shallow pit, known as a ‘ hoyo ’. Digging out these hollows allows the roots to reach the subsoil through a layer of volcanic ash that can be up to three metres thick. Above ground, low stone walls (' abrigos ') protect from the fierce trade winds. With as little as three hundred vines per hectare, this is low-yield viticulture in the extreme. The winds, however, are also the secret weapon against drought. The combination of the hoyos and volcanic material captures enough of the moisture that is carried on the winds to sustain the vines without irrigation. These conditions – isolated, dry, warm with constant breezes – mean little pressure from disease, and an estimated 95% of the island’s vineyards are farmed without chemical fungicides. [caption id="attachment_536024" align="alignnone" width="300"] Stone abrigos protecting the vines. Credit: Getty Images / Cavan Images / Néstor Rodan[/caption] Volcanic character These are very old vines too. Phylloxera never reached the islands, so Lanzarote boasts many ungrafted, 100-year-old vines. Volcanic soils impart a particular mineral signature on the wines made from them, and ‘volcanic wine’ is very much in vogue. Wines from Italy’s Mount Etna and Mount Vesuvius are prime examples, but so too are those from many countries on the Pacific’s ‘Ring of Fire.’ Like the best of these, the volcanic wines of Lanzarote display an intriguing flinty, smoky and ozone-like character. The Grape Varieties Lanzarote is proud of its historic varieties and little else makes its way into bottles. Malvasía Volcánica accounts for around 70% of all wine production. Distinct from other Malvasias, it is a cross between Malvasia (Malmsey) first brought to the island by the Greeks, and the local Marmajuelo. Listán Negro has been grown in the Canary Islands since the arrival of the Spanish in the 1500s and is embraced as a native grape. It should not be confused with Listán Prieto, another Castilian grape that arrived at the same time and which went on to the Americas where it is known today as País in Chile, Criolla Chica in Argentina, and Mission in California. Listán Blanco is less widely planted than Listán Negro, and is a synonym for Palomino of Jerez. Diego mostly features as a blending component. Also known as Vijariego, it can add a green apple and herb bite to blends. The Bodegas El Grifo is one of Lanzarote’s big players. It is a real survivor having been in continuous production since 1775. On my first visit to Lanzarote over 30 years ago its wines were perfectly serviceable, but unexciting. Today El Grifo has upped its game, spurred on by the excitement around new, small wineries making terroir-driven wines. If visiting Lanzarote, you will find that bigger names like El Grifo, Bermejo and Vega de Yuco feature in supermarkets and on every restaurant list. Make no mistake, they make good wines that are well worth exploring, but the greatest interest for the wine enthusiast lies in the new breed of artisan producers. The Artisans: Five Lanzarote producers to know Titerok-Akaet The bodega launched in 2017, but with access to much older vines. Farmed organically, Marta Labanda and Juan Daniel Ramirez use minimal SO2 and central to their philosophy is the recovery and preservation of old vines. Puro Rofe Since 2017 this project has produced some of the most interesting wines on the island. Founder Rayco Fernandez sources grapes from local organic growers, but with a commitment to terroir-driven wines and sustainable farming. All ferments are spontaneous, some in amphora, and wines are unfiltered, unfined and made with minimal sulphur. Jable de TAO Another new, terroir-driven producer since 2021, sourcing fruit from old vineyards. They are working steadfastly to research the island’s soils and micro-climates. The wine tasted here, called Tenesar, is a perfect example. From vineyards of marine sand and volcanic ash just two kilometres from the coast, the saline note is unmissable. Cohombrillo 4/24 Owner Eamon López O’Rourke gave up the unlikely job of captaining a tourist submarine to establish his bodega in 2021. Focused on natural wines, his annual production is only around 5,000 bottles. Farming is organic, with no additives used in the winery. Bodega Erupción Also dating from 2021, third generation winegrower Amor Lopez farms sixteen plots across the island. Working with ungrafted, 100-year-old vines, ferments are all spontaneous and her winemaking is ‘hands-off’. Bodega David Fernandez This is a brand new project from Lanzarote native David Fernandez. Aged only 29, the first wines are just appearing in the market. He is based in the north of Lanzarote, as are some of his vineyards, which he is rehabilitating after years of neglect. All natural wines, he will release single parcel cuvées, with a focus on individual terroirs. Definitely wines to keep an eye out for. [caption id="attachment_536025" align="alignnone" width="300"] Volcanic vineyards, Lanzarote. Credit: Getty Images / RUSM[/caption] The Wines Few of these wines are available from UK retailers, but the Wine Shop Lanzarote exports to the UK. If you are visiting the Playa Blanca area, the wine shop of Kamezi Boutique Villas has one of the island’s best selections from small producers. [/subscriber-content] Top wine picks from Lanzarote [wine-collection] Related articles Expert's Choice: The Canary Islands Spain's exciting island wines A new level of identity for Canary Island wines

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