Burgundy 2016 will be remembered for terrible frosts that took their toll on yields in many areas, including premier and grand cru sites, but there is quality if you know where to look among the wines that made it through. Read William Kelley's in-depth report...
Full report on Burgundy 2016
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‘Frost was unprecedented in my career,’ says Christophe Roumier
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This year, more than ever, the devil is in the detail. Here’s what to look out for…
Along the Côte d’Or, no one could recall anything like it. Burgundy is no stranger to frost, but the night of 26-27 April was unique, striking not just the low-lying regional and village appellations, but many celebrated grand and premier crus up-slope. Vineyards that normally escape unscathed were razed. ‘I’ve never heard of Echezeaux freezing,’ reflected Emmanuel Rouget. ‘My uncle, Henri Jayer, said that even Richebourg froze in the winter of 1947, but never Echezeaux.’ Christophe Roumier, whose vineyards in Chambolle-Musigny were hit hard, agreed: ‘It’s certainly unprecedented in my career.’
‘It is close to impossible to generalise in this vintage’
The caprice of the April frosts, denuding some vineyards of grapes while leaving others untouched, has left an indelible mark on the 2016 wines, resulting in almost unexampled heterogeneity.
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"}
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