Chablis 2023: Vintage report and best of the new wines

Chablis 2023 vintage rating: 4/5 Wine of the vintage Domaine François Raveneau, Les Clos Grand Cru

As one grower in the region put it, ‘2023 was easy and not easy…’, and: ‘It was essential not to be tempted by the excess that nature had offered us .’ Indeed, generous yields raised fears of dilution throughout the Chablis region , though in the end, nature provided the raw material for careful growers to produce delicious results. The prelude to the 2023 growing season in Chablis was warmer and drier than average until March. There were some minor incidents of frost on 28 March and 4 April, but the vines were not very advanced and the impact was minor. Temperatures began to rise in early May and conditions were near perfect during flowering, which had peaked by 9 June, slightly ahead of the average. Because of the favourable conditions at flowering, a very large crop was set. Scroll down to see notes and scores for 35 of the best wines from the 2023 Chablis vintage [subscriber-content]After flowering , rain showers scattered throughout Chablis from June through to the end of August, ending with a stormy period that brought some hail. The rainfall had two effects: it activated mildew, which remained an issue for some; and where rain was less prevalent, some of the vines suffered drought stress. Hot and dry weather returned in early September, causing sugar levels to jump and acidity to plunge. Choosing the correct harvest date was imperative. Some growers began to pick on 7 September; others waited through that weekend and began on 11 September. Yields overall were high. According to BIVB regional data, at more than 49,400hl combined, premier cru and grand cru Chablis volumes were up 16.6% compared to the 2018-2022 five-year average; Chablis and Petit Chablis combined were up 23.2%. The biggest difference, however, was in the regional appellations, such as Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre, where production was 48.1% higher than the average. [caption id="attachment_545846" align="alignnone" width="630"] Credit: JP Map Graphics Ltd.[/caption] Chablis producers of note in 2023 Top producers Domaine François Raveneau Domaine Vincent Dauvissat Domaine William Fèvre Domaine Bessin-Tremblay Samuel Billaud Domaine Billaud-Simon Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin Domaine Moreau-Naudet Domaine Laurent Tribut

Rising star/under-the-radar Domaine Pattes Loup Domaine 47°N 3°E

Top value Domaine Laurent Tribut La Chablisienne Domaine des Peregrins

Strength on both sides The quality implications of high yields are clear. If not controlled (by debudding early on in the season or cutting away excess bunches during ripening), the resulting wine might be dilute and lack concentration. Grapes also need to be sorted rigorously at harvest to avoid the possibility of mildew-affected fruit bringing in ‘off’ aromas (a concern that comes with machine picking). However, if a grower is working with low-yielding old-vine material in a prime location, the opportunity for real quality is there. Despite the warmth, the seven climats of the grand cru slope on the right (eastern) bank of the Serein river all distinguished themselves in 2023. Of the premiers crus on the right bank, Montée de Tonnerre and Vaulorent (part of Fourchaume) have given a predictably strong performance. On the left bank, my favourite wines came from Montmains (especially Butteaux) and Vaillons, and as far afield as Beauroy and Côte de Jouan. Often, the least successful wines were tied to warmer sites – while there were some excellent wines from warmer lieux-dits on the right bank such as Mont de Milieu and Les Fourneaux, there was also the potential for high-alcohol, low-acid wines that taste heavy and flat. The best results are in line with recent sunny vintages (such as 2018 - 2020 and 2022 ), with ripe orchard and stone fruit, a lush texture, balanced acidity and plenty of extract. [caption id="attachment_545791" align="alignnone" width="600"] Benoît Droin, Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin.[/caption] [breakout] Chablis: know your vintages 2023: A large harvest with a hot, sunny conclusion. The growing season was up and down, with abundant rain and cool temperatures, but the success of the year was decided by the hot, dry conditions that in the end delivered healthy grapes with moderate alcohol but slightly lower acidity. 4/5 2022: In retrospect, the warm, sunny conditions of 2022 edge out those of 2023, oddly because August was too hot, causing the vines to shut down and preserve more acidity than 2023. This slightly superior freshness means the wines of 2022 will have a seductive balance and might well age better. 4.5/5 2021: The low yields and the difficult growing conditions were a constant challenge for growers. In the end, however, the lower yields and resulting concentration meant the top wines were thrillingly crisp, concentrated and powerful and will undoubtedly enjoy a long life in the cellar. 4/5 2020: A warm, easy year, the antithesis of the year that followed: the vines had everything – heat, sunshine, enough rain. The result is an approachable vintage with easy, moreish fruit aromas that will drink well young but may drop off sooner than the wines from 2019. 4/5 2019: Several heatwaves during this sunny year meant many initially felt that the wines lacked freshness. But time has shown that the wines’ intensity means they should hold well and have the structure to support their weight. 4.5/5 2018: A large harvest in a hot year produced wines with lots of body and warmth, but sometimes without the structure for long ageing. A very rewarding vintage to drink now, but few wines will survive decades in the cellar. 3/5 [/breakout] Want more 2023 Chablis? Click here for more notes and scores from the 2023 Chablis vintage

Plenty of good wines Anecdotally, there appears to be less in the way of mineral expression overall and very little of the racy acidity that was exhibited by the Chablis of yesteryear. However, when viewed in the context of modern Chablis wine, there were some very successful results. Overall, the quality in 2023 was more variable than in 2022, with more potential issues in Chablis and Petit Chablis than with the premiers and grands crus. The best of the top wines, however, may age in a similar way to those of the legendary 1990 vintage (‘high volumes and superb quality’, according to chablis-wines.com ). The wines will be friendly and approachable when young; the best of them have the potential to age for decades. In less-skilled hands, however, there’s a chance of watery wines that lack freshness and verve. Buying as high up the quality ladder as your purse allows, from growers you trust, will be a winning strategy (as is often the case). According to respected producer Vincent Dauvissat: ‘2023 was a year of volume, although complicated by the almost tropical amount of water, which caused mildew to explode on the grapes, but they were saved by a warm, sunny autumn. Despite a bit of botrytis and a bit of sour rot, the balance is like 2022, with slightly softer acidity, since it dropped off in the heat at the end of the season.’ [caption id="attachment_545790" align="alignnone" width="600"] Isabelle and Maxime Raveneau, Domaine François Raveneau. Credit: Leif Carlsson.[/caption] Names to know Despite the potential dangers, 2023 qualifies as a vintage that’s eminently worth stocking up on: Petit Chablis for everyday quaffing and some good village wines, and premiers crus to drink now or pop in the cellar for five to 10 years. The best of the grands crus will age for years or even decades to come. If money is no object, look for François Raveneau’s Grand Cru Les Clos and 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, Dauvissat’s Grand Cru Les Preuses and 1er Cru Séchet, William Fèvre’s Grand Cru Les Clos, the 1er Cru Fourchaume La Pièce au Comte from Bessin-Tremblay, and the 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre from Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin. Didier Séguier at Domaine William Fèvre summed up his thoughts: ‘I’m optimistic – 2023 was an interesting vintage with fantastic ageing potential, and one that presents the possibility of staying true to the Chablis style.’ [breakout] Chablis and the Grand Auxerrois Chablis is certainly the best-known wine from northern Burgundy, but it’s not alone. The Chablis appellation is surrounded by areas of vines that compose the larger Grand Auxerrois (Greater Auxerre) region, which also includes the crus of Vézelay, planted to Chardonnay ; St-Bris, for Sauvignon Blanc ; and Irancy , for Pinot Noir .

Different grape varieties are also planted in the regional appellation Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre, including the obscure César for red wine (allowed as a blending grape in Irancy, up to 10%) and Sacy and Melon (as in the Muscadet grape) for white wines.

Some spectacular wines are being produced in the Grand Auxerrois, and I have chosen here the very best producers and five of the most interesting wines to ensure Decanter ’s complete coverage of the wider region’s best wines.

Picks of the Grand Auxerrois: Jean Hugues et Guilhem Goisot, Mont Morin, St-Bris 95pts The tiny production from this special site features a field blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris (roughly 50/50), planted on a 45% slope (nearly impossible to work) at the western border of the appellation. The complex, almost pungent aroma features notes of grapefruit, gooseberry and lime, with a savoury, almost gamey edge that leads to a silky, explosively fresh feel on the palate. Although this is undeniably delicious now, it also has the substance to age. Drink 2024-2025

Domaine Sainte Madeleine, Les Saulniers, Vézelay 92pts The pale lemon yellow colour belies the intensity of the bright, lemony fruit with notes of chalk and acacia flowers. The texture is silky, with crisp acidity and a finish that lingers invitingly. A delicious 100% Chardonnay that shows the potential of the appellation, the grapes are from a 1.1ha parcel in the lieu-dit Les Saulniers; they are gently pressed as whole clusters and fermented in stainless steel to ensure the purity of the fruit. Drink 2024-2030

Domaine Camu Frères, Cuvée des Ducs, Vézelay 91pts Elegant and subtle, this 100% Chardonnay boasts discreet aromas of white nectarines and greengage plums with a bit of spice. The texture is light and fine, but there is enough persistence here to let this age. The grapes come from a 1ha plot at the base of the slope; they are gently pressed before fermentation and ageing in five-year-old casks. This 15ha domaine is the property of Baron Ladoucette, and the wines are made by Philippe Rossignol, the cellarmaster in Chablis. Drink 2024-2035

Jean Hugues et Guilhem Goisot, Les Mazelots, Irancy 94pts More serious and concentrated than most, Goisot's Les Mazelots boasts abundant mulberry and pomegranate aromas with hints of truffle and earth. The wine is tannic and firm, concentrated but not heavy. The vines are planted in a band of grey Kimmeridgian that delivers prominent minerality; a third of the vines are 80-110 years of age (the oldest in the appellation); a third are 40-80 years old and the rest are young vines. The combination is spectacular. 100% Pinot Noir. Drink 2028-2045

Fontaine Goby, Irancy 91pts This delightful wine from Irancy sports a light ruby colour, but the aromas of currant and plum are fairly ripe and adorned with hints of violet and Ceylon tea. The texture is firm and lively, with impressive length for the category. The grapes are gently fermented on natural yeasts before ageing in cask for a year (15% new). There is enough substance here to warrant at least mid-term ageing. 100% Pinot Noir. Drink 2024-2035

[/breakout] [/subscriber-content] Chablis 2023 great buys: Charles Curtis' picks Many retailers’ allocations for these wines are as yet unconfirmed – prices and stockists are given where available. No alcohol levels are shown, as production of many of the wines was incomplete at the time of writing. [wine-collection] Related articles Collector’s Guide: White Burgundy Burgundy 2023: What to expect from a rollercoaster vintage Hundreds of Burgundy wine appellation signs to be auctioned