Terracotta army: 15 amphora wines to try

Amphora wines have an incredibly long history: the clay amphora was used for winemaking in Georgia (where it is known as a 'qvevri') at least as far back as 8,000 years ago, according to the archaeological record. In ancient Greece ('pithos') and Rome ('dolium'), clay vessels were used both for producing and transporting wine. Spain ('tinajas') and Portugal ('talhas') also have very long traditions of using clay vessels for winemaking. Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 15 great amphora wines from Armenia, Italy, Croatia, Portugal and Austria Amphorae for winemaking come in many sizes, from 250-litres to several thousand-litres, and can be made from several different types of clay. These porous containers are essentially egg-shaped vessels where the grape juice is pressed and fermented, remaining in contact with the grape skins for an extended period of time ranging from just a few days up to several years. [subscriber-content]As wine production modernised, most producers chose wooden barrels, and steel and concrete tanks, which were easier to use and clean. As a result, amphorae all but disappeared, but they have come back in leaps and bounds in recent decades thanks to pioneers such as Josko Gravner from Friuli Venezia Giulia in Italy. Why do winemakers use amphora? The reasons for making wine in amphora vary from producer to producer: some who I spoke to believe that the character of the grape variety and terroir show more clearly in amphorae than in other vessels. Clay can be thought of as a middle ground between steel and oak; stainless steel allows for an oxygen-free environment and doesn’t impart any flavours at all into the wine, while oak allows oxygen to reach the wine and the wood releases aromas and flavours. Like oak, clay is porous, allowing oxygen to reach the wine, but like steel it’s a neutral material that won’t impart any additional flavours. Some producers explained their primary decision to use amphorae as keeping an ancient tradition alive, and achieving a stronger connection to history. The case for amphora wines also met some critical voices: wines made in amphora cannot be aged but must be drunk young because of the volatile acids; amphorae release metal compounds into the wine; amphora wines are a fad for those who want to ‘be different’. After tasting approximately 100 amphora wines at the Terracotta & Wine festival in Certosa this June, it's clear that quality and style varies dramatically. Below, I've picked out my top 15 to try. Amphora wine producers to know 1701 Franciacorta 1701 Franciacorta is - for the moment - the only biodynamic winery in Franciacorta . The winery was born in 2011 when Silvia and Federico Stefini purchased the land from the Conti Bettoni Cazzago family. They chose to work with a young team and experiment with different winemaking techniques and ageing vessels. Since 2016, the winery has been certified biodynamic by Demeter. The vineyards cover 11 hectares, of which 8ha are Chardonnay and 3ha are Pinot Noir. The property is divided into different parcels, managed and vinified separately to highlight the peculiar characteristics of each plot. The most significant production is, of course, sparkling wine, but one still wine is also made: Surnát. A 100 % Chardonnay, it is fermented and aged in terracotta for eight months. Cirelli In the Italian region of Abruzzo , Francesco Cirelli farms seven hectares with his wife, Michela. In 2011, they began using amphorae 'to keep the fruit better and to avoid a reduction in the red Montepulciano d'Abruzzo', as Francesco explains. Today there are 22 amphorae in the cellar, both above ground – for fermentation - and underground, for ageing. Cirelli only uses wild yeast to start the fermentation for all the wines, and all grapes are harvested by hand. Casadei Stefano Casadei and his family own Castello del Trebbio in Chianti, Tenuta Casadei in Maremma, and the Olianas company in the province of Nuoro, Sardinia . He has launched the amphora collection 'Le Anfore' with his daughter Elena. 'The Anfore line was born from a simpler and more natural idea of oenology, suited to producing wines that faithfully express the characteristics of different terroirs and vines,' says Elena Casadei. Every year she selects the varieties that have produced the best results in amphora among all the wines of the family estates. She supervises the vinification phase, deciding the maceration and ageing period. Elena Fucci Elena Fucci works with the red variety, Aglianico, which thrives in the volcanic soils of Vulture in Basilicata . She took over her grandparent's vineyards 20 years ago, situated at 600 metres above sea level. The Aglianico variety has a dark colour, high tannins and high acidity and is often called the 'Barolo of the south'. Fucci recently began experimenting with amphora to better handle aromas and tannins. 'The wine develops faster in amphora, and becomes more mineral, something positive for Aglianico that otherwise needs a long time of ageing to develop correctly,' she said. Fattoria Le Masse Fattoria Le Masse is a small family-run biodynamic winery in the Chianti Classico area in Barberino Val D'Elsa. In 2018, a new generation entered the family business: siblings Robin and Lea Mugnaini bring new life to this small farm, where not only can you taste wine but also take yoga or art classes. 'We consider ourselves artisans; therefore, each stage of processing is as manual as possible, from grape harvesting to work in the cellar. We do not use pumps throughout the fermentation period, nor do we use selected yeasts, enzymes, bacteria, or any aromatic additive', Robin says. Their small production, if not to say tiny - just a couple of hundred bottles - of Camporella Trebbiano Toscano is made in amphora. As an adviser, both in the field and cellar, Le Masse collaborates with Adriano Zago, one of the leading biodynamic consultants in Italy. Ghira Young winemaker, Damir Mihelić returned to his hometown to continue the family tradition in Novigrad, Croatia , and has used amphorae since 2017. The 3.5 hectares of vines grow in fields with indigenous grasses and nettles, with beehives surrounding the property. Horses are used instead of tractors as much as possible. Herdade do Rocim Pedro Ribeiro and Catarina Vieira from Herade do Rocim in Alentejo , Portugal, not only make wines in amphora, but they also import amphora wines from other countries, such is their passion for the genre. 'In the beginning, we made a small amount of wine in amphora, here called talhas, to keep the tradition. In 2010 our American importer tasted the wine and was overwhelmed - that's how it all started,' says Ribeiro. Podere Le Ripi The biodynamic winery Podere Le Ripi in Montalcino is owned by Francesco Illy, whose family founded the well-known coffee brand, Illy Caffé. At Podere le Ripi, he has created a green oasis, working as close to nature as possible. The focus lies on Sangiovese, but Podere Le Ripi also makes the white wine, Canna Torta, from Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia Bianca fermented and aged in amphora for nine months. 'Tuscan whites very often taste hard and rough and have a tired acidity, but using terracotta amphoras, we avoid that and instead obtain crunchy and fresh wines,' says winemaker Sebastiano Nasello, adding that care must be taken to avoid oxidation and iron flavours in the wine. Sassotondo Close to the picturesque town of Pitigliano in southern Tuscany lies Sassotondo, a winery founded by passionate couple Edoardo Ventimiglia and Carla Benini in 1990. Today they have 72 hectares on the outskirts of the Bolsena volcanic basin, where the compressed volcanic sandstone, 'tufo', is the leading element. Sassotondo is renowned for its work with the indigenous Tuscan grape variety, Ciliegiolo. There is constant work here to find the best winemaking techniques and ageing vessels for this often misunderstood variety. For its 100% Ciliegolo, Poggio Pinzo, the grapes are softly destemmed and fermented in 700-800-litre terracotta vessels (namely Giara). When the fermentation is over, the Giara are filled and closed, and the wine and skins remain until the next harvest: a total maceration time of approximately 11 months. 'This is probably the future for our winery. We are happy about the result,' says Edoardo. Weingut Ploder-Rosenberg The Ploder-Rosenberg winery is located in the volcanic area of south-eastern Styria, Austria . Manuel is the third generation of the family to run the biodynamic winery and today he focuses on natural wines, some of which are vinified in amphorae. Manuel also grows hybrids - so-called 'PIWI' varieties - which are crossings of traditional vines (Vitis vinifera) with wild vines, making them resistant to many diseases and adapted to a northern climate; ideal for organic and biodynamic estates which don't use pesticides, fungicides or herbicides. Zorah 'I grew up abroad because we Armenians could not go back to our homeland during the Soviet regime and the war. The first time I visited Armenia was as an adult in 1999,' says Zorik Gharibian. With his wife Yeraz, son, and winemaker Alberto Antonini, Zorik has made Zorah a world-renowned name. 'It all started as a hobby, but it got a little out of hand,' he says, laughing. The vineyards are situated between 900 and 1,700 metres above sea level, and the estate works with ancient indigenous grape varieties such as Chilar and Areni Noir. Choosing terracotta amphorae felt natural. 'Just like in Georgia, amphoras have been a tradition in Armenia for thousands of years. We wanted to reclaim our ancient traditions that disappeared under Soviet rule when we lost our wine culture since all wine was distilled,' says Zorik. [/subscriber-content] 15 top amphora wines to try: [wine-collection] Related content Amphora wines: The joy of clay The rebirth of Armenian wine, and bottles to try Expert’s choice: Discovering wines from Georgia

PREMIUM

Terracotta army: 15 amphora wines to try

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 15 great amphora wines from Armenia, Italy, Croatia, Portugal and Austria

15 top amphora wines to try:

Related content

Amphora wines: The joy of clay

The rebirth of Armenian wine, and bottles to try

Expert’s choice: Discovering wines from Georgia

Latest Wine News

Baudains: Are old vines important?

Trump returns: The impact on the US wine industry

Hospices de Beaune 2024 auction nets just under €14.5m

Decanter Fine Wine Encounter London 2024: Highlights

Andrew Jefford: ‘Collioure could be a little mountain Burgundy of the south’

Latest Premium Content

Château Lafite and Long Dai masterclass: DFWE Singapore 2024

Roederer: A lifetime of rosé Champagne

Sicily Report 2024: Etna’s golden opportunity

Yamhill-Carlton: An oasis for Pinot Noir in the wilds of Oregon

Berry Bros & Rudd: Autumn and Christmas wine picks