Getting to know white Hermitage

Even to the untrained eye, there are some vineyard sites that stop you in your tracks: the hill of Hermitage is one. [subscriber-content]But to the dedicated wine lover, it’s even more compelling. This slope could only have, and only has, one purpose: to make wine that’s been legendary for centuries. White Hermitage is the very embodiment of the words ‘grand cru’. It’s a unique and hugely characterful wine that never fails to seduce.Hermitage is better known today for its reds, but at one time its white wines were equally famous – and rightly so.There are hardly any appellations in France outside Burgundy that can make red and white wine to the same exceptional standard. Today, 30% of production is white, most of which is dry, but a tiny proportion is sweet vin de paille. Scroll down to see Matt's 28 white Hermitage tasting notes Location The best view of the hill is from the Château de Tournon, on the other side of the Rhône river. I was there on 17 June for ‘Legendary (H)Ermitage’, a full day’s celebration of Hermitage featuring almost every producer. It was an unforgettable event featuring some heart-stopping treats that pulled in guests from around the world. The hill itself, on the east bank of the Rhône, rises up above a kink in the river as it briefly flows west to east. It’s a kneaded, 136ha south-facing slope that catches the sun and ducks the northerly Mistral. It would be hard to design a better place to make wine. According to Michel Chapoutier, Hermitage is ‘the perfect illustration that the most interesting vineyards are in geological chaos…We have the four ages of soil: primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary.’ The westerly quarter once belonged to the Ardèche granite massif on the other side of the river. It was gradually shorn off by the river, then over time and glacial action, a long, eastern limestone flank took shape, joined by loess on top and gravely clay at the bottom. Red and white grapes are grown all over but many of the best whites are from the eastern flank, such as lieux-dits Les Rocoules and Les Beaumes. Though the 1990s saw the rise of single-vineyard wines, it’s a phenomenon that’s more connected with its reds. Winemaking & style Producers can use Marsanne, Roussanne or a blend of both, though in practice Marsanne is much more common by around 7:1. Winemaking is traditional for the Rhône. Much is done by hand, and organic viticulture is relatively common despite the steep slopes. Malolactic fermentation is almost always carried out and maturing in oak barrels is common - sometimes too common. Not much changes here, but gradually the degree of oak influence is being dialled down, which is a welcome development. The style of white Hermitage is generous and opulent. It’s dry but far from lean, with plenty of body. Acidity is low, but these are by no means unbalanced wines, just flowing and regal. In terms of flavour, you can expect almond nougat, quince, hazelnut, apricot, pear, peach and ginger. Then, as they age, barley sugar, honey and baking spices come to the fore. White Hermitage works brilliantly with food, and in fact needs food to show its best. It’s a very versatile tool for sommeliers, working well with rich or lightly spiced dishes, and is a great dry option to pair with foie gras. Most of these wines drink well from release and continue to gain interest for 10 to 20 years. The best can last for decades. [/subscriber-content] Tasting white Hermitage: [wine-collection] [breakout] Leading producers of white Hermitage: Domaine JL Chave, M Chapoutier, Domaine Marc Sorrel Under-the-radar options: Domaine Betton, Domaine Fayolle Fils & Fille, Domaine des Martinelles. Reliable, good value white Hermitage cuvées: Cave de Tain, Au Coeur des Siècles, Hermitage Blanc M Chapoutier, Chante Alouette, Hermitage Blanc Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Le Chevalier de Sterimberg, Hermitage Blanc Ferraton Père & Fils, Les Miaux, Hermitage Blanc Domaine du Colombier, Hermitage Blanc [/breakout] [breakout] White Hermitage key facts: AOC Hermitage created in 1937 30% of Hermitage production is white wine Permitted varieties Marsanne and/or Roussanne Climate Warm continental; very sunny with northerly wind Annual production 1,554 hectolitres (2018) Average yield 38hl/ha Top recent vintages 2004, 2010, 2014 [/breakout] You may also like: Expert’s Choice: White Châteauneuf-du-Pape Best Rhône 2017 wines: The top scorers Condrieu ageing- Ask Decanter

PREMIUM

Getting to know white Hermitage

Tasting white Hermitage:

Leading producers of white Hermitage:

Under-the-radar options:

Reliable, good value white Hermitage cuvées:

White Hermitage key facts:

You may also like:

Expert’s Choice: White Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Best Rhône 2017 wines: The top scorers

Condrieu ageing- Ask Decanter

Latest Wine News

Angry French grape growers smash bottles outside Lidl

France will uproot 27,500 hectares of vineyards to combat oversupply crisis

Jason Millar: ‘What’s actually wrong with a little throaty roar in a 15% Roussillon red?’

Napa Valley estate once home to ‘Two Buck Chuck’ producer is up for sale

Concha y Toro becomes the largest producer to join the Bottle Weight Accord

Latest Premium Content

Expert’s Choice: Hunter Valley Semillon

Aragón reds: Panel tasting results

Ontario: The evolution of Riesling on the shores of the Great Lakes

Paso Robles 2022 vintage: Best wines from a challenging year

Carcavelos: Salt-lined sweetness from the ‘Portuguese Riviera’