Okanagan Valley 2022: A unique vintage in British Columbia

‘Shaped by two antithetical phases, 2022 was a unique interpretation of the region’s extremes’ ‘This was a very strange growing year,’ reflects Costa Gavaris of the boutique Rigour & Whimsy label. To most outsiders, British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley may be puzzling at the best of times. North of the 49th parallel, it is often mistakenly deemed cool climate. Admittedly, winter can be frigid. However, summer temperatures often soar beyond 40° Celsius, and rainfall is scarce. Above all, the growing season for fine wine production is typically compressed and intense. Scroll down for tasting notes and scores of the top 2022 Okanagan wines [subscriber-content][breakout] 2022 Okanagan Valley: 4.5/5 A record-cool and rainy spring eventually transitioned into a dry, hot summer with some heat spikes in the south. Throughout the valley, the prolonged, warm, and sunny autumn brought grapes to maturity. Across a range of styles, grape varieties, and subregions, the wines offer exquisite fruit purity and intensity, vibrant acidity, and balanced alcohol. [/breakout] A year marked by extremes Shaped by two antithetical phases, 2022 was a unique interpretation of the region’s extremes. According to Summerland’s RDC Growing Degree Days (GDD) data, the months of April through June were among the coldest of the last 25 years. By contrast, the period of August through October was one of the warmest. ‘The cool, wet weather in the spring was initially welcome,’ says Rajen Singh at Ursa Major, ‘but by June, people started to panic.’ From delayed bud burst and shoot development to flowering and fruit set, the growing cycle lagged an average of three weeks behind. ‘It was tracking to be a rosé or sparkling wine year,’ asserts Rebecca Mikulic at Three Sisters, who was worried about reds not reaching phenolic ripeness. The sudden arrival of summer in July brought dry, hot conditions typical of this semi-desert region. An uninterrupted succession of days in the mid-30s °C made August the Okanagan’s hottest ever on record, yet without excessive heat spikes. Regional differences The devil, though, is always in the details. Expanding 175 km from north to south, the Okanagan Valley varies markedly at its two extremes. Spearhead’s winemaker Grant Stanley cited peak temperatures of a reasonable 36°C in the more northerly stretch around Kelowna. Conversely, in the southernmost subregion of Osoyoos, Moon Curser reported temperatures reaching 41°C and at the nearby Osoyoos-Larose estate, the mercury hit 44°C. ‘The heat in August ‘blocked’ version, and so some varieties only finished veraison beginning of September,’ states winemaker and COO Michael Kullmann. With late veraison throughout the valley, the true saving grace of the vintage was the long, warm, sunny autumn. Daytime temperatures of 25°C persisted well into October. ‘We were still in shorts on 19 October,’ recalls Severine Pinte, winemaker for Le Vieux Pin and La Stella. At Blue Mountain, Matt Mavety emphasises the importance of timing. ‘The reduced day length and the cooler night temperatures allowed a slower ripening of the fruit, thus maximising the flavour profiles,’ he says. [caption id="attachment_540427" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Vineyards on the Naramata Bench. Credit: Michaela Morris[/caption] A sense of reprieve The other crucial element is that the Okanagan Valley saw little to no smoke from forest fires in 2022, thus avoiding problems with smoke taint. Furthermore, issues with localised early-season hail, powdery mildew and damage from leaf hoppers were largely kept at bay. The overall fruit quality was excellent, with clean, healthy grapes leading up to harvest. ‘The real challenge was not stuffing the vintage up,’ declares Shane Munn at Martin’s Lane. For most, it was an abundant and late harvest. Garron Elmes at Lake Breeze in Naramata estimates seven to 10 days later than average. At Mission Hill, winemaker Taylor Whelan reports a start date of September 15th – a full month later than the scorching 2021 vintage with 20 to 25% more crop. On the contrary, in Okanagan Falls, Alan Dickinson says that 2022 wasn’t any later than usual for Synchromesh. ‘I tried to react to heavier crop loads early in the season by dropping fruit and reducing berry size through less irrigation.’ White varieties and Pinot Noir were picked through to mid-October, with growers keeping later ripening varieties on the vine even as temperatures began to plummet. There were logistical challenges as grapes ripened at the same time. ‘All varieties achieved ripeness by a hair’s breadth,’ says winemaker Kathy Malone at Hillside in Naramata. ‘It snowed right after the last pick of Cab Sauvignon on 7 November.’ Late harvest In Osoyoos, Justin Hall at Nk’Mip had to machine-pick Syrah in -2°C temperatures to get it off before snow on 3 November. Other estates left grapes on the vine well into November, with Hester Creek finishing up with Cabernet Franc on 1 December. While most of the valley dealt with a bumper crop, the situation in North Okanagan was another story. A severe cold snap in December 2021 caused significant bud damage, resulting in a short crop. In Lake Country, O’Rourke Peak Cellar saw a 30 to 40% loss, according to former winemaker Nikki Calloway. 'Chardonnay and Gruner Veltliner were the most impacted,' she notes. In East Kelowna, Tantalus brought in only half of their targeted crop, and further from the moderating effect of the lake, SpearHead was down 80% in the estate’s home vineyard. 'The small crop that did exist ended up being a little more concentrated and riper than a usual vintage,' says Stanley. [breakout] 2022: Michaela's take on the vintage My first encounter with 2022 was in the spring of 2023. Straightforward aromatic whites were among the earliest releases and showed pure flavours with lovely fruit intensity, vibrant acidity and alcohol kept in check. Over the last few months, the valley’s more serious whites have been released, and reds are trickling out. Between judging at WineAlign’s National Wine Awards of Canada and tasting at my home office, I sampled over 200 wines, mostly blind, supplemented by visits to wineries in mid-August. With a high level of quality across styles, grape varieties, subregions and price points, 2022 is unequivocally an exciting vintage demonstrating the diversity and potential of the valley. That said, not all the 2022s are necessarily better than previous vintages. Managing crop levels and picking at the right time were vital. In general, the north and central sub-regions have the edge in 2022 – though plenty of great wines still hail from the south. Furthermore, British Columbia’s second most important region, the Similkameen Valley, should not be overlooked. Adjacent to Osoyoos, it shares similar climatic conditions yet possesses its own distinct signature. I have included a few of my top picks. [/breakout] [caption id="attachment_540428" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Viticulturist Kurt Simcic and winemaker Shane Munn at Martin's Lane. Credit: Michaela Morris[/caption] White varieties shine Representing British Columbia’s third and second most planted whites, respectively, Riesling and Chardonnay are among the vintage’s stars. Typically made dry or off-dry, the Rieslings harness the year’s penetrating fruit with piercing acidity, yielding many cellar-worthy examples. From the Kelowna area, Tantalus Old Vines and Martin’s Lane Fritzi’s Vineyard are two of my top drops of the entire vintage. Chardonnay proved its mettle throughout the valley. The wines sport varying degrees of oak but are generally deftly managed, with the best boasting sophistication and a sense of place. Meyer offers an impressive range across the board, while Cedarcreek’s Platinum bottling from Lake Country throws a well-deserved spotlight on this northern subregion. The vintage also presents a case for some of Okanagan’s less planted grapes. O’Rourke Peak Cellars and Culmina’s Grüner Veltliners come from opposite ends of the valley but are equally compelling. Furthermore, the most purposefully hewn white blends are generally more intricate and nuanced than their single varietal counterparts (with Lock & Worth’s superb Semillon a rule-confirming exception). Particularly successful are those modelled after the Rhône – like Le Vieux Pin’s Ava and Terravista’s Figaro, and Bordeaux – such as Blasted Church Small Blessings. Compelling red wines As for the reds, Syrah shone poignantly. Demonstrating the considerable potential for a truly unique expression, the wines combine ripeness with crunchy acidity and well-etched aromas and flavours that evoke the valley’s distinctive flora. Alas, the devastating freezes of December 2022 and January 2024 resulted in a high percentage of vine death among cold-sensitive Syrah. At the risk of causing a frenzy, I highly recommend buying abundantly from 2022. Rest assured, there is plenty to explore beyond Nichol’s Old Vines bottling, which received my top billing. The smoke-free vintage was also particularly kind to Pinot Noir. It exalts gorgeous fruit clarity across various styles and subregions, from Spearhead’s silky, fruit-laden Saddle Block to more firmly structured examples such as 1 Mill Road and Blue Mountain. In the lighter red vein, Gamay, which BC isn’t particularly renowned for, is likewise worth a look. Click here for tasting notes and scores of all 2022 Okanagan wines tasted Some mixed results Among the Bordeaux varieties I tried, the results were mixed. Burrowing Owl continues to live up to its reputation for Merlot, though unripe or excessively hard tannins mark less successful examples of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot at other estates. A flight of Cabernet Franc was similarly grumpy at first but became more flattering as the wines opened. The Loire-esque Synchromesh and joyfully juicy Ursa Major were immediate standouts. Additionally, both River Stone and Fox & Archer make a convincing argument for Malbec, a grape on the rise in the Okanagan. Many of the valley’s most aspirational reds are crafted from Bordeaux varieties and have yet to be released. They will likely need time in the cellar to temper BC’s signature assertive structure. [caption id="attachment_540429" align="alignnone" width="1300"] River Stone Malbec vineyard in Oliver. Credit: Lincoln Clarkes[/caption] Quality from top to bottom Only seven wineries produced Icewine in 2022. Grapes were picked early on in November and December as temperatures dropped quickly and stayed there. Luscious yet balanced, Nk’Mip exhibits pristine quality of fruit. Finally, the Okanagan’s most sophisticated traditional method sparklers are still ageing on the lees. Based on the lively acidities, depth of flavour and poised alcohol among the still wines, I would be willing to wager on bubbles in 2022. Despite rumours to the contrary, the Okanagan Valley currently has plenty of wine to sell. However, a short crop in 2023 and a virtually non-existent harvest in 2024 means that 2022 will be the last vintage of any quantity for a while. Given its breadth of quality, I’d say there has never been a better time to buy BC wine. [/subscriber-content] Okanagan Valley 2022: 26 of Michaela's top-scoring wines [wine-collection] Related articles Kelowna – Nine top spots for food and wine Canada’s Okanagan Valley approves six new sub-appellations Calgary, Canada: Top restaurants and wine bars

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Okanagan Valley 2022: A unique vintage in British Columbia

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