Regional profile: Condrieu plus 12 wines to seek out

In the 1960s, Viognier nearly died out completely. Many Decanter readers would be horrified by this scenario, but certainly not all – it is, after all, one of the most divisive of grapes. Its birthplace is Condrieu, and the new president of the appellation, Pierre-Jean Villa, is under no illusions. ‘People either like it or they don’t.’ he says. ‘It’s not universally enjoyed like Chardonnay .’ But those that like it, love it. To him, ‘Condrieu is magic – but fragile’. In the face of climate change, he’s helping a new generation of winemakers adapt their winemaking to create a fresher style of wine. Scroll down to see Matt Walls’ selection of 12 Condrieu wines to try [subscriber-content] Founding father Today there are more than 16,000ha of Viognier grown around the globe ( source: ‘Which Winegrape Varieties are Grown Where?’, Anderson & Nelgen, revised edition 2020 ), but it wasn’t always so widespread. It originates in the northern Rhône, where it has been cultivated for more than 2,000 years. But the late 19th and early 20th centuries were tempestuous, and after the region was battered by phylloxera and two world wars, by 1965 plantings had dwindled to just 8ha. The late Georges Vernay never stopped believing in Condrieu, however, and he inspired a group of fellow winemakers to replant the region’s vertiginous terraces. Together they saved Viognier from extinction and since then it has spread around the world. Strong character For anyone studying for wine exams, being served a Viognier in a blind tasting is always a bonus as it’s so easily identifiable. But strong characters can be polarising. Some love the variety for its opulent fullness, satin texture and heady fragrance of peach, violet and jasmine. For others, its acidity is too low, alcohol too high, and the perfume and flamboyance are overpowering. Contrarily, it’s possible to like Condrieu even if you’re not a huge fan of Viognier. When Viognier is grown on this particular sequence of airy granite slopes – particularly the dark biotite granite at the heart of the appellation – it takes on a salinity and intensity that helps to balance the variety’s natural propensity to corpulence. But the 21st century has produced a new threat – one that can exaggerate Condrieu’s personality still further: a rapidly heating climate. It’s something of which the new generation of local winemakers are acutely aware. Aurélien Chirat, who recently took over his family estate after spending time in New Zealand, says ‘we need to find freshness – without forgetting we’re from the Rhône ’. [caption id="attachment_509995" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Credit: Maggie Nelson[/caption] [breakout] Condrieu at a glance AP created 1940; one of the eight northern Rhône crus Wines 100% still white, mostly dry but a small amount of sweet Condrieu is produced Grapes 100% Viognier Climate Continental: hot summers, cold winters, strong north wind Private estates 87 Annual production (2022) 215ha producing 7,961hl (average yield 37hl/ha) Amount exported 32% Vineyard surface certified organic 14% Vineyard surface certified HVE 31% Top recent vintages 2021, 2020, 2016, 2014 [SOURCE: INTER RHONE, 2022] [/breakout] Leading from the front [caption id="attachment_509993" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Pierre-Jean Villa[/caption] When the presidency of the appellation became available, Pierre-Jean Villa (pictured above) hoped that a young wine-grower might rise to the occasion. But he didn’t see many hands go up, he says, and he gradually realised that most were too inexperienced for this political role. In the spirit of Georges Vernay, Villa felt a duty to lead from the front, ‘until someone from the next generation is ready to take it on’. They’re all fortunate: Villa is one of the finest vignerons of his generation. Villa has identified two main objectives, the first of which is to update and refresh the image of Condrieu – he is currently working with an agency on branding and digital communication. The second is altogether more crucial: to help local winemakers adapt their viticulture, ‘to avoid the wines getting overly heavy and rich in the face of climate change’, he says. Villa is an expert in all things viticultural and has several approaches in mind, such as using massal selection instead of clones (ie, propagating new vines using cuttings from the best existing stock of old vines in a vineyard) and choosing more resistant rootstocks. He’s also keen to promote agroforestry (planting trees within and around vineyards), which can help to reduce erosion, increase biodiversity and reduce greenhouse gases – something he’s been experimenting with in his own holdings. Villa points out that Viognier has one major strength in the battle against climate change – it’s not averse to hot weather. It’s a naturally low-acid variety that finds balance through minerality and positive bitterness. ‘We’ve always made wines at 14% with low acidity,’ says Villa. Fighting the flab Xavier Gérard took over the family estate from his father François in 2013 and has rapidly gained a strong following for his Condrieu. He says that the new generation of winemakers have been adapting their work in the cellar as well to create a more balanced, food-friendly style. In the winery, keeping temperatures low during fermentation and very gentle pressing to avoid crushing the skins both help to rein in overly exuberant fruit flavours. Reducing lees stirring during maturation helps to avoid flabbiness. And dialling down on the oak also helps – particularly heavily toasted barrels that add vanilla flavours and oak tannins that ‘make the wine even fatter’, says Gérard. ‘I’m really backing off from small barrels and new oak.’ In order to preserve freshness and acidity in the wines in warmer vintages, Gérard has an ingenious approach to harvesting. He brings in half of his grapes early at just 11.5% potential alcohol with high acidity, then the other half when they’re fully ripe: the best of both worlds. A greener future [caption id="attachment_509992" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Christine Vernay. Credit: Jacques Lange / Paris Match via Getty Images[/caption] When the late Georges Vernay retired after the 1996 vintage, he handed the estate to his daughter Christine, who still leads the estate today. Growing grapes without resorting to herbicide in Condrieu is particularly challenging, since everything on these precarious terraces needs to be done by hand. But Domaine Georges Vernay is now certified organic and they are working towards biodynamics. ‘This is a historic estate,’ says Christine, ‘and we have a duty to lead by example.’ Christine Vernay has proved an inspiration in other ways. Female winemakers were rare 20 years ago, but she has demonstrated that success is possible for the women who are taking over their family estates today. Among them is her daughter Emma. I asked Christine which areas Emma will have to master at the domaine. ‘Everything,’ she answered. It’s not going to be easy. With Viognier, she’ll be growing a demanding grape variety in challenging terrain, and in a chaotic climate. But the new generation in Condrieu benefit from strong leadership, and are adapting their methods to make some thrillingly fresh and drinkable wines. It’s not for everyone, admittedly. But for those of us who love it, nothing compares – just one sniff and we know we’re in for a treat. 10 names to know in Condrieu Cave Yves Cuilleron [caption id="attachment_509997" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Yves Cuilleron[/caption] For many, Yves Cuilleron is synonymous with Condrieu, but when he originally took over the family estate, in 1987, it was just 3.5ha. Now he owns plots in almost all northern Rhône appellations, totalling 75ha. Winemaking, however, remains notably hands-off, and the results reliably excellent. Clos de la Bonnette [caption id="attachment_509998" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Henri and Isabelle Guiller-Montabonnet[/caption] Established by Isabelle and Henri Guiller-Montabonnet in 2009. Their picturesque vineyards are tucked away in a verdant valley in the hills behind Condrieu town and have always been organic. Their son Antoine is now taking up the reins. Try their vibrant Condrieu Légende Bonnetta (2020, £55.95 Lea & Sandeman) to see why this is one of my favourite new estates. Domaine André Perret When André took over from his father in 1982, the estate was mostly fruit trees. What he hands over to his daughter Marie today is one of the very foremost Condrieu estates. His cuvée Chéry is consistently one of the greatest wines of the appellation – a measured and beautiful expression. Domaine du Monteillet At wine tastings around France, this estate’s stand is always mobbed. It’s no surprise as owner Stéphane Montez makes complex and expressive St-Josephs and Côte-Rôties – and some thrilling Condrieu. His cuvée La Grillette from a plot bordering Château-Grillet is particularly concentrated and intense. Domaine François Villard François was training to be a chef when he was bitten by the wine bug and bought his first Condrieu vineyard in 1988. He now has 40ha around the northern Rhône. He makes three expressive Condrieus from different terroirs and his new fourth cuvée, Villa Pontciana, is a selection of his best barrels. Domaine Georges Vernay Christine Vernay, took over from her father Georges in 1996; she makes three Condrieu cuvées and all are consistently excellent. Her Terrasses de l’Empire (2018, £72.95 Wine Republic) is the most approachable and classically styled. Les Chaillées d’Enfer (2020, £98.75-£120 All About Wine, Fintry Wines, Strictly Wine, Vinvm) is more concentrated, from two 50-year-old plots of Viognier. The Coteau de Vernon is a wine of great complexity and freshness that can last for decades. Domaine Niero One of the rare northern Rhône estates that produces more white wine than red, and is expert at Condrieu. Established in 1985 by Robert Niero, now managed by his son Rémi. In conversion to organic. Domaine Pierre-Jean Villa Originally from Chavanay in the northern Rhône, Villa trained and worked in Burgundy before returning home to establish his own estate, which is now certified organic. Villa is an expert in all things viticultural and recently took over as the new president of the appellation. Wines of great balance and elegance. Domaine Stephane Ogier Stéphane’s father Michel established the estate in 1983 and within 30 years it reached the top tier of northern Rhône producers. Best known for his single-vineyard Côte-Rôties, but his Condrieus are equally impressive. His Combe de Malleval (2020, £45 Laithwaites) is generous but not exaggerated, while his Vieilles Vignes de Jacques Vernay (no relation to Georges) is a more intense, ageworthy example. Domaine Xavier Gerard Unfailingly enthusiastic, Xavier took over the family domaine from his father François in 2013, after a stage at Boekenhoutskloof in South Africa – known for its excellent Syrah. He’s one of northern Rhône’s most exciting new talents, making fresh and drinkable Condrieu that’s now among the very best. [/subscriber-content] Finest Viognier: Walls’ 12 Condrieu wines to tempt [wine-collection] Related articles Walls’ hidden gems: Vignobles Chirat, Condrieu Northern Rhône whites: Panel tasting results Walls: Best restaurants in the Rhône for wine lovers

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Regional profile: Condrieu plus 12 wines to seek out

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