Soave revolution: The producers and wines to know about

The Italian word soave is most commonly translated as ‘gentle’ or ‘delicate’, and for decades most local producers crafted their wines in this fashion. If you wanted a pleasant sipping wine, Soave fitted the bill, but on the whole, typical examples were not particularly complex or structured for enjoyment beyond four or five years. Soave to this day is still dominated by simple offerings, as cantina sociale (cooperatives) and large companies lead production, while even many smaller estates seem content to stay the course and not challenge the status quo. Thankfully, however, there are a few dozen artisan producers who realise the distinct qualities of Soave and are proving the potential of this vastly underrated white wine – let’s call this the ‘Soave Revolution’. Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Hyland’s eight top Soave wines [subscriber-content] Special slopes Situated 36km east of Verona , the quaint town of Soave is the spiritual centre of a production zone which encompasses almost 6,500ha of vineyards that spread out north, west and east of the town. While wines sourced from outlying locations in this territory are labelled merely as Soave, it’s the Soave Classico district, which includes the communes of Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone (less than 10km east of Soave town), that is the source of the finest vineyards and the most exceptional producers. [breakout] Soave DOC at a glance Area planted: Nearly 6,500ha in the Soave production zone, of which 1,400ha for Soave Classico; and Soave represents 2% of all Italy’s DOC and DOCG vineyards Key grapes: Garganega (which makes up between 70%-100% of a wine), Trebbiano di Soave (up to 30%) Growers: 3,000 (small estates, each averaging about 2ha) Annual production: Soave DOC 30 million bottles; Soave Classico 9.33 million bottles Exports: Soave DOC 48%; Soave Classico 61% Source: Consorzio Tutela Vini Soave, 2022 [/breakout] One of these is Pieropan, currently managed by brothers Andrea and Dario Pieropan, who have continued the work of their late father and Soave legend Leonildo. Pieropan is known for its two exceptional single-vineyard Soave Classico wines: La Rocca and Calvarino. Andrea Pieropan notes that one of the problems facing Soave is with the labelling. ‘The co-existence of Soave Classico and Soave DOC makes all the projects of quality improvement less credible, as the wines that come from those different areas are deeply different,’ he says. ‘Soave could have a huge opportunity in these times, where markets are requiring more and more white wines from indigenous varieties, but this dichotomy is a burden within the appellation.’ [caption id="attachment_515870" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Pieropan's La Santa vineyard in the Soave Classico region[/caption] The distinguishing feature of the Soave Classico district is its hillside vineyards, which Chiara Coffele, co-proprietor of her family estate in the town of Soave, notes were named a UN Food and Agriculture Organization Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System in 2018 – ‘the first in Italy linked to viticulture’, she explains. The soils here are varied, ranging from volcanic (the area has several extinct craters) to limestone, alluvial and clay; the topography here is remarkable, with slopes from 10°-80°. The principal variety in Soave is Garganega – the local disciplinare regulations require a minimum of 70% – while the other traditionally used grape is Trebbiano di Soave. Curiously, as much as 30% of the blend may be Chardonnay , while 5% of other white varieties can also be incorporated. The overwhelming majority of artisan producers use Garganega exclusively. A late-picked variety (mid-October harvest is normal), Garganega has good natural acidity – though not as high as other Italian varieties such as Vermentino , Verdicchio , Greco or Fiano – and is characterised by aromas of honeydew melon and pear, with a light note of almond. At Le Battistelle in Monteforte d’Alpone, proprietors Cristina and Gelmino Dal Bosco discovered that the key to realising the maximum potential of the Garganega grape is reduced production. ‘In the Classico zone, it is impossible, even if you want to force the vineyards, to produce quantity.’ They produce several examples of Soave Classico, with their Roccolo del Durlo the most remarkable, the product of very old vines grown on a steep slope littered with basaltic rocks. Local identities To highlight the distinctive qualities and increase awareness of the Soave hills, an appellation system known as UGA (Unità Geografica Aggiuntiva, or additional geographical unit) was approved in 2019 after 15 years of research, and can be applied to wine labels from the 2019 vintage onwards. This is similar to the MGA organisation of Piedmont ’s Barolo and Barbaresco – where specific delimited geographical areas can be mentioned on the label (there Asili, Brunate, Cannubi and so on) – and also the UGA arrangement in Tuscany ’s Chianti Classico . In the case of Soave, there are now 33 UGAs, covering approximately 38% of the appellation – primarily Soave Classico as well as the Colli Scaligeri sub-zone in the western reaches of the territory. [caption id="attachment_515868" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Gini Sandro of Monforte d'Alpone with air-dried (appasimento) grapes[/caption] Producers are divided on the worth of UGA for Soave. Gelmino Dal Bosco approves, saying: ‘It is a good method of understanding the differences across the soil of Soave, but I think this will be used for a very restricted group of people… in fact, there are too many UGAs, and a normal consumer can’t know these differences.’ Sandro Gini of the family estate in Monteforte d’Alpone thinks that, while UGA in Soave is a starting point, it’s not an ‘easy journey’, in his words. ‘It is not a highway to take by adding only the geographical name of origin to the label,’ he comments. ‘All growers must give the best of themselves, reducing yields, bringing each single vine into balance, promoting environmental sustainability.’ Coffele wonders why the UGA extend beyond the heart of the zone. ‘If I have to be honest, before the 33 UGAs I would have made a little more distinction between the Soave Classico of the hills and the Soave of the plain – but that’s another story.’ Pinpointing quality Francesca del Cero of Corte Giacobbe , who produces an excellent Soave from outside the Classico district, is hopeful that this new approach will be a positive step forward for the entire appellation. ‘For us, it’s a good way to help people realise that there are great areas outside the Classico boundaries.’ She believes that additional promotion will help consumers understand the potential of this zone. ‘I think consumers will be prepared to pay more money for a cru Soave compared to a basic one, especially if they have the chance to try the difference.’ [caption id="attachment_515866" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Francesa del Cero of Corte Giacobbe[/caption] ‘For young winemakers this [the UGA system] is an extra impetus to stay in the hills,’ concludes Gini. ‘They will certainly have the desire to change their strategy, improving the proposal and the image of Soave.’ Less than 25 years ago, the word Soave on a label was essentially considered a hindrance; so much so that at least one key producer (Anselmi) decided not to identify his wines using that name. Today, thanks to the vision of local producers who appreciated the terroir they work with, the finest renditions of Soave rank among the most accomplished of all Italian white wines. It’s clear the Soave revolution is paying strong dividends. Six top Soave producers to know Ca’ Rugate , Montecchia di Crosara Innovator Ca’ Rugate crafts several wines, ranging from the steel-aged Monte Fiorentine to Studio, a 60% Trebbiano di Soave, 40% Garganega blend matured in mid-size French oak barrels. Coffele , Soave A small family-run estate in the centre of the town of Soave, Coffele is a consistent producer of understated Soave Classico. Coffele also bottles one of the finest examples of Recioto di Soave, Le Sponde. Gini , Monteforte d’Alpone Brothers Sandro and Claudio Gini are among the strongest proponents of Soave Classico as a significant white wine. Every wine they produce speaks of the local terroir, with striking acidity, notable texture and outstanding ageability. Le Battistelle , Monteforte d’Alpone High on the Monteforte d’Alpone hills, managed by Gelmino and Cristina del Bosco, this is one of the key artisan producers of Soave Classico. Its four estate offerings each give excellent harmony and typicity, with Roccolo del Durlo being among the most complex and remarkable wines of the appellation. Pieropan , Soave A family estate today managed by brothers Andrea and Dario Pieropan, who have brilliantly carried on the work of their late father Leonildo. The Soave Classico is always among the finest example of the vintage, while the single-vineyard wines La Rocca and Calvarino are pillars for the denomination. Suavia , Fittà Sisters Meri, Valentina and Alessandra Tessari manage this highly respected estate located on volcanic hills just north of the town of Soave. Their Monte Carbonare Soave Classico bottling has smokiness and minerality that give the wine a remarkable distinctiveness. [caption id="attachment_515869" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Meri, Alessandra and Valentina Tessari of Suavia[/caption] [/subscriber-content] Hyland’s eight top Soave picks from producers shaping the future [wine-collection] Related articles Soave revival: Producers to know Italy's finest white wines: 20 top bottles, region by region Versatility of Vermentino: top dry white picks from across Italy

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Soave revolution: The producers and wines to know about

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