South American white wines: A new era

South American white wines have undergone a more radical transformation this century than in any other period in the continent’s history. Changes have been driven by numerous factors. The search for cooler spots to mitigate the effects of climate change, combined with increasing self-confidence, has led producers to explore progressively more marginal conditions, while the need to offer consumers diversity is encouraging producers to consider alternative varieties. Additionally, there has been a desire to preserve local heritage, prompting producers to explore old vineyards. [subscriber-content]As wine drinkers become increasingly curious, astute and interested in less familiar grape varieties, unusual styles and unique stories, South American producers are responding with enthusiasm and the landscape is changing rapidly. New territory On both sides of the Andes the boundaries of viticulture are moving towards higher altitudes, closer to the sea and further south. In Mendoza, Argentina, some of the Precordillera (Andean foothills) vineyards in La Carrera and Uspallata boast altitudes surpassing 2,000m. In the desert-like conditions of Jujuy, Argentina’s northernmost viticultural region, vineyards have been established at altitudes above 3,300m, with Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Torrontés Riojano planted alongside red varieties. Chilean producers are also heading to the hills. In the Elqui Valley, Viña Falernia has planted Pedro Ximénez in one of the country’s highest vineyards, at 2,070m. Altitude also features in Brazil. In the southern part of the country, Santa Catarina state, vineyards have been planted at 1,300m. Sauvignon Blanc has real potential in this region, and a producer to look out for is Vinícola Thera . For decades, cooling coastal breezes have been an important ally to Chilean producers. Some of the best white wines made in Limarí, San Antonio, Leyda, Casablanca and Colchagua Costa benefit from their proximity to the Pacific ocean, which is one of the reasons why Viña Errázuriz decided to establish vines in Aconcagua Costa. Argentinian producers have similarly begun to establish vineyards near the coast. Trapiche developed Chapadmalal, south of Buenos Aires, while Matías Michelini has recently joined a project at Bahía Bustamante, 1,500km south of the capital, where vines have been planted just metres from the sea. In Uruguay, Bodega Garzón has included Albarino, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling and Semillon in its Maldonado vineyards, 18km from the Atlantic. There has been a rush towards marginal climates in the south of the continent. In Argentina, Patagonia has attracted the interest of many producers despite challenging conditions that include low rainfall, howling winds and the threat of frost. Alejandro Bulgheroni started Otronia winery, a project in Capitán Sarmiento, Chubut, where Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer and Chardonnay were planted at parallel 45.33°S. The concept of pushing the vine to the limit to achieve the best results does seem to have its benefits, and Otronia Chardonnay already features among the country’s best. In Chile, the lack of support for development of viticulture from the local Mapuche population, the country’s largest ethnic group, most of whom live in the south, has historically hindered expansion south of Bío Bío. Additionally, the threat of excessive humidity discouraged producers from crossing the line until Viña Aquitania set up vineyards in Traiguén, Malleco Valley, 650km south of Santiago in 1995. Plantings have since then expanded around Malleco and extended to Osorno, more than 900km south of Santiago, where Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay have shown potential. Miguel Torres, Casa Silva and Viña Trapi del Bueno are achieving remarkable results in this area. Exploring diversity Although South American countries cannot claim the levels of diversity of countries such as Italy or Portugal, there is a growing number of grape varieties and styles for wine lovers to explore. In Argentina, white grapes account for 18.36% of plantings. Three types of Torrontés (Riojano, Sanjuanino and Mendocino) dominate, accounting for almost 10,000ha of the 36,400ha planted to white varieties. Torrontés can perform well and demonstrate versatility at different price points, and there is a trend towards toning down its aromatic exuberance. Producers are picking earlier to obtain more delicate citrus notes, retain freshness and achieve lower alcohol while maintaining its personality. Torrontés responds well to fermentation on the skins and adapts itself to judicious use of oak. In Calchaquí Valley, in Argentina’s north, high-altitude vineyards are responsible for some of the best examples, including those from Bodega Colomé , located in Salta province, and Bodega El Porvenir in Cafayate, also Salta. Zuccardi Serie A and Susana Balbo are also excellent examples. Torrontés is able to retain its personality and offer value even at lower price points. One producer achieving consistently good results is Bodega La Riojana . Argentina is a reliable source of entry-level Chardonnay, the second most-planted grape variety in the country at 5,921ha. Trivento achieves admirable results at this level. Chardonnay is also responsible for some of Argentina’s best whites. Consumers looking to trade up can find many producers, including Andeluna , Bodega Atamisque , Finca Flichman and Bodega Catena Zapata , which makes an outstanding example from its Adrianna vineyard in Gualtallary, worthy of comparison with any world-class Chardonnay. There is more to explore than just these two varieties. Consumers who enjoy lighter, refreshing styles can search for Bodega Norton , which makes an elegant Gruner Veltliner as well as a bright and pure Sauvignon Blanc. Zorzal offers a racy, focused and refreshing Sauvignon Blanc in its Eggo range called Blanc de Cal. Those who prefer more exuberant and richer styles could explore Viognier from Bodega Lagarde , which claims to be the pioneer of this variety in Argentina. The grapes are sourced from vineyards planted in 1989 in Luján de Cuyo and display excellent varietal character while retaining elegance and freshness. Argentinian diversity does not end here. There are other great examples of varietal wines, including Fiano ( Bodega Caelum ), Malvasia ( Escala Humana ), Verdejo ( Familia Zuccardi ), Pinot Grigio ( Finca La Celia ) and Chenin Blanc ( Michelini i Mufatto ). White blends are becoming increasingly fashionable in Argentina. At the entry level, Torrontés blends offer good value, especially alongside Riesling or Chardonnay. However, real excitement is found at higher price points. Matías Riccitelli makes Blanco de La Casa, offering incredible personality and laser-sharp freshness by blending Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Semillon. Matervini produces an outstanding example of a richer style by co-fermenting Marsanne and Viognier before ageing in oak. Judging by recent success, wine lovers can expect more exciting blends in years to come. Chile has built its reputation on offering excellent-value varietal wines, especially Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, which dominate plantings with 15,300ha and 11,200ha respectively. Price-sensitive shoppers are well served by Chile, with many of the large players such as Santa Carolina and Concha y Toro doing an admirable job. At the mid-premium level there are too many producers to mention – although Viña Casablanca must be highlighted for winning a DWWA Gold medal in 2019 with its Nimbus Sauvignon Blanc. Further excitement is found at the premium end with many producers throughout the country making exceptional Chardonnay, from Concha y Toro’s Amelia in Limarí in the north, to Viña Aquitania’s Sol de Sol in Malleco in the south. Chile offers other excellent varietal wines, including Albarino ( Vinos G2 ), Riesling ( Cono Sur ), Sauvignon Gris ( Casa Marin ), Viognier ( Tabalí ), Pinot Grigio and Gewürztraminer ( Morandé ), and recently País ( Bouchon ), among others. Producers in Chile are also demonstrating creativity through blends. Adventurous consumers can explore Cono Sur’s Gewürztraminer-Viognier-Riesling blend under the great-value Bicicleta label. At the mid-premium level, Morandé offers Bestiario, an excellent blend of Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier. For audacious consumers, A Los Viñateros Bravos has an outstanding blend of Semillon and Muscat called Granítico Blanco from a small parcel of old vines in Itata. [caption id="attachment_443151" align="alignnone" width="1300"] Sheep roam among Cono Sur’s organic vineyards at Chimbarongo, Colchagua Valley in central Chile[/caption] Old vine revival In fact, old vines of less fashionable varieties such as Semillon, Moscatel and Corinto (believed to be Chasselas), historically planted and destined for bulk wines, are experiencing a revival. Viñas Inéditas Terroir Sonoro winemaker Juan José Ledesma’s Moscatel de Alejandría grown in Itata, and J Bouchon ’s Granito Semillon from Maule, both made from vines of at least 70 years old, are sublime examples. Old-vine Semillon has also been rediscovered in Argentina. Matías Riccitelli sources fruit from an ungrafted vineyard planted in Rio Negro in the 1960s and turns it into one of Argentina’s most exciting white wines. Producers all over Argentina are paying attention to old vines, including Torrontés. Bodega El Esteco makes an outstanding example from a Calchaquí Valley vineyard planted in 1945. This is a positive trend that will help to reverse the demise of some wonderful old vineyards that are scattered all over the continent and often overlooked. Vine age features less in Brazil and Uruguay, with even the best wines of Uruguay made from comparatively young vines. Albarino has been producing good results. The Galician variety was introduced by Bodega Bouza in 2001 and planted by Bodega Garzón in 2006. The success of these producers has started a trend that looks set to continue. It is highly likely that Albarino plantings will increase ahead of other varieties in the coming decade and be a welcome addition to the Chardonnay, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc that have been planted for decades and perform well in the hands of competent producers such as Daniel Pisano and Familia Deicas . Brazil focuses its production on red and sparkling wines as there is low consumption of white wine in the domestic market. However, there is respectable diversity, with Albarino, Chenin Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Malvasia, Muscat, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Semillon, Verdejo and Viognier planted alongside Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Brazilian producers are not able to compete with their South American neighbours at the entry-level price points due to high domestic taxation and labour costs. At the top end there is no iconic white wine yet, but in the mid-premium category there are producers worthy of attention, such as Don Guerino , Guaspari and Pizzato, which makes Legno, by far the country’s best Chardonnay. The way ahead South American producers are pushing boundaries and discovering new terroir. There is also a growing sense of responsibility towards protecting old vineyards, while the adventurous spirit of South Americans is driving plantings of new varieties. At the same time, younger producers are coming to the fore, injecting fresh ideas to expand the knowledge of the experienced old guard. The overall result is increased diversity, enthusiasm and optimism, and there is a palpable sense of excitement. There has never been a better time to explore the white wines of South America, which, generally speaking, over-deliver in terms of quality and value, at all price points. Judging by recent developments, the next decade will be even more exciting. [/subscriber-content] Top South American white wines to try [wine-collection]

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South American whites: a new era

Top South American white wines to try

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