Top Valpolicella Superiore wines: Panel tasting

84 wines tasted with one rated Exceptional and five Outstanding The panel tasters were: Andrea Briccarello, Michael Garner, Andrew Jefford Introduction by Michael Garner Of all the Valpolicella denominations, Superiore is the most perplexing and, after Recioto, the least widely available. Though including some of Verona’s very finest red wines, the category is completely overshadowed in terms of popularity by Amarone (and more recently Ripasso) and remains something of an enigma. Whereas we know exactly what to expect from ‘simple’ Valpolicella, we can have little idea – unless we’re already familiar with a producer’s particular house style – of what we’re getting with a bottle of Superiore, as there are so many individual stylistic interpretations. How typically and confusingly Italian! [subscriber-content]Yet Superiore’s open-ended production discipline has a real upside: the winemaker can let his or her imagination take over and produce the best possible wine, unconstrained by restrictive guidelines. Quick link: View all 84 wines from this panel tasting In practical terms this means the use of either freshly gathered grapes – often with a little sovramaturazione (surmaturité) on the vine for good measure – or those which have undergone a shortened period of appassimento , as the process of drying grapes for Amarone or Recioto is known. Many examples combine both approaches, using fruit from a carefully selected, favourite vineyard. Wide-ranging tastes The broader debate, which is sparked mainly by climate change, is a fascinating one: a growing number of producers believe the clearest statement of terroir to be a wine made from freshly gathered fruit, where the wine’s distinguishing characteristics are defined by growing conditions and not the production process – meaning appassimento or ripasso (young Valpolicella re-fermented on the lees of wine made from appassimento grapes). Other producers argue that the true identity of Veronese reds depends on the use of semi-dried fruit – the legendary Bepi Quintarelli, for example, was a great advocate of the relevance of appassimento across all styles. The other main variables with Superiore are the use of wood and levels of alcohol and residual sugar. Many examples spend at least a year in barrel, though the ageing period can also take place in tank, bottle or even amphora. While the minimum alcohol content is 12%, examples at between 14.5%-16.5% are not uncommon. Sugar levels range from completely dry to about 8g/l. This adds up to a plethora of styles, spanning the lighter, graceful and charming yet still ageworthy wines from freshly gathered fruit, through to convincing versions of mini-Amarone made wholly from semi-dried grapes. And all points in between! There’s something for everyone – one among many reasons why Superiore is arguably the future of Valpolicella. The scores 84 wines tasted Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest-release Valpolicella Superiore, Valpantena Superiore and Classico Superiore wines. Ripasso-method (but not Ripasso DOC) wines were permitted. Exceptional 1 Outstanding 5 Highly Recommended 31 Recommended 41 Commended 3 Fair 1 Poor 0 Faulty 2 See all 84 wines from the panel tasting The results The Superiore category is a minefield, agreed our tasters, spanning myriad styles, but there are many delicious wines waiting to be discovered. Amy Wislocki reports on the post-tasting dicusssion. ‘We had the complete style spectrum here today,’ commented Andrew Jefford after the tasting, ‘from fresh, graceful, athletic, ethereal and fruity wines to the most thunderously deep wines you can imagine. 'The colours go from pale and translucent, where you can see the afternoon sun shining through them, to some where you can shine a torch into them and you wouldn’t see the other side. It’s really tough for consumers; there’s no magic bullet, no quick fix. But that’s also the pleasure and delight of the region.’ The chief stylistic difference concerns the use, or not, of passito (semi-dried) grapes. ‘There was a good proportion with passito grapes – it’s a good working style,’ said Garner. ‘We need to remember that these wines show very well in tastings. I’d argue that there were a number of really good wines made from freshly picked grapes that didn’t make the grade because they were more subtle and understated. The mini-Amarone style is immediately attractive and recognisable and tends to overshadow the subtle styles of Valpolicella.’ The pitfall for the wine lover is that you won’t know from the label whether a wine is made from freshly picked or passito grapes. ‘Most of the fault lies with the Superiore denomination, which has no clear indication of style built into it’ said Garner. ‘It means that consumers need to know the individual approach of every single winery. The upside is that there’s a lot of experimentation going on, and we are at a stage where growers are flexing their muscles and discovering just what they can do with these grape varieties – and with Corvina in particular.’ Andrea Briccarello agreed that it is confusing, but celebrated the category as a whole, and observed some welcome stylistic shifts. ‘It was an outstanding tasting, and the overall quality of Superiore stood out. Valpolicella is becoming far better known as it’s easier on the palate than Amarone and Ripasso – and it’s great value for money. 'I’m also noticing less residual sugar, less of the sweet plum character, and generally a leaner, more serious style. There were many wines with real vibrancy and freshness of juicy sour cherry. It could also be down to the character of the vintages on show.’ Both Garner and Briccarello were pleasantly surprised by the quality of wines from the difficult 2014 vintage, though Garner was disappointed by 2015. ‘I had higher expectations of that vintage, and I think perhaps it is at a difficult stage in its development.’ He added that 2012 showed very well for a vintage that is not highly rated, and professed himself a huge fan of the ‘cooler, more aromatic’ 2013s. The tasters were also very complimentary about the wines from the eastern part of the region. ‘The biggest surprise of the tasting for me was how well these wines performed,’ said Garner,’ as most people take the view that the best wines are from the Classico area.’ ‘There’s a sense that Classico wines are made in a more classic style aesthetic, while outside that area all bets are off, and producers just make the best wine they can,’ observed Jefford, who expressed sadness that the classical, vivacious and translucent style could struggle to get to market, particularly in the US, as everything else was so sensational. ‘I don’t think it’s in danger of extinction, but I can see a time when producers are not adequately renumerated for that style. ’ Our tasters each pick their top 3 wines from the tasting: Andrea Briccarello Briccarello is the UK brand ambassador for Bisol. He previously worked as wine buyer for Galvin restaurants and was buyer and group sommelier at Corrigan’s Mayfair, Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill, and Lindsay House. In 2009 Briccarello was named Sommelier of the Year by Taste of London, and he was the winner of the Wines of Roussillon Dessert Trophy in 2010. [breakout] Romano Dal Forno, Valpolicella Superiore 2011 One of the most iconic wineries in Valpolicella – Dal Forno’s drive for perfection really stands out. Incredibly intense with plenty of dark forest fruits and spices. Outstanding wine with incredible ageing potential. 98 Drink 2020-2030 Corte Canella, Valpolicella Superiore 2014 Made from 50- to 60-year-old vines in the alluvial and stony soil of Cellore, this Superiore really shone in the tasting, with its combination of concentration and elegance. The drying process adds great intensity. 95 Drink 2019-2023 Tommasi, Rafaèl, Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2015 The Tommasi family has been producing wines since 1902. Rafaèl comes from an historic single vineyard and is aged for 15 months in Slavonian oak. Vibrant cherry notes and spice. Stunning. 95 Drink 2019-2023 [/breakout] Michael Garner Garner has worked in the wine business for more than 30 years and has specialised in Italian wine for more than 25 years. He is a regular contributor to Decanter, and DWWA Regional co-Chair for Italy. He is author of Amarone and the Fine Wines of Verona and co-author of Barolo: Tar and Roses. Garner lives in rural Devon with his family and two large Briard dogs. [breakout] Romano Dal Forno, Valpolicella Superiore 2011 Dal Forno’s wines always stand out, initially for their sheer power but with bottle age they open out, revealing sumptuous poise and harmony. Fabulous. 98 Drink 2020-2030 Terre di Leone, Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2014 Chiara Turati and Federico Pellizzari farm vineyards high in the Marano Valley. Their dedication shines through in this stunning example from a notoriously difficult vintage. 95 Drink 2019-2024 Villa Spinosa, Figari, Classico Superiore 2015 This elegant, supple and slightly austere example is made with great conviction and exudes the effortless charm which epitomises the finest Valpolicella. 95 Drink 2019-2023 [/breakout] Andrew Jefford Jefford contributes a monthly column to Decanter and writes ‘Jefford on Monday’ for Decanter.com. He has been writing and broadcasting about wine since the 1980s, winning many awards for his work. After spending 15 months as a senior research fellow at Adelaide University in 2009-2010, Jefford now lives with his family in the Languedoc, close to Pic St Loup. [breakout] Romano Dal Forno, Valpolicella Superiore 2011 Was a more impressive table wine than this made anywhere in the world in 2011? I doubt it. Impeccable in almost every detail. 98 Drink 2020-2030 Ernesto Ruffo, Campogadis, Valpolicella Superiore 2013 A commanding wine, though one I have never tried before. Outstanding raw materials grown on one of the region’s volcanic-soiled vineyards: sensational aromas, textures and exotic flavours. 97 Drink 2020-2026 Tedeschi, Maternigo, Valpolicella Superiore 2014 This fine single vineyard wine (from the steeply sloping Impervio site) made me wish I’d been able to visit Tedeschi on my last visit to the region. Magnificent fruit qualities set in a lustrous frame. 96 Drink 2019-2022 [/breakout] [breakout] Valpolicella Superiore: the facts Production area Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Valpantena and Valpolicella Orientale Area under vine Almost 8,000ha: hillside sites have mainly limestone-based soils; the sedimentary soils of the plains line the northern bank of the Adige Grapes Corvina (mainly), Corvinone and Rondinella plus a maximum 25% of other permitted varieties Regulations Minimum 12% alcohol; minimum one year of ageing from 1 January following the vintage; maximum yields of 12 tonnes/ha Valpolicella Superiore: know your vintages 2017 Promising, though quantities were down due to hail in some areas. Too early for a full evaluation of stylistic traits 2016 Warm year, giving well-balanced, deeply coloured, aromatic wines with good ageing potential 2015 Successful. Excellent growing conditions resulted in big, ripe, full wines which still need time 2014 Notoriously difficult, cool, wet. Some worthwhile wines were produced with severe fruit selection. Drinking well now 2013 Patchy, though the best wines are elegant and well-balanced, approaching their peak now 2012 A warm vintage: big, robust wines which have held up surprisingly well and continue to develop [/breakout] [/subscriber-content] Top rated wines from the panel tasting: [wine-collection] Related content: What is Amarone wine? – ask Decanter La Poja vertical: The rebel of Valpolicella Amarone della Valpolicella – panel tasting results

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Top Valpolicella Superiore: Panel tasting results

84 wines tasted with one rated Exceptional and five Outstanding

The panel tasters were: Andrea Briccarello, Michael Garner, Andrew Jefford

Top rated wines from the panel tasting:

Related content:

What is Amarone wine? – ask Decanter

La Poja vertical: The rebel of Valpolicella

Amarone della Valpolicella – panel tasting results

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