Tasting the two 'very distinct' Amarone styles

Amarone, the famous ‘Vini da Meditazione’, has existed since Roman times and is Italy’s most famous dried-grape red wine. It is made in the Valpolicella area of Italy's Veneto region and is dry- to medium-dry with typically high alcohol levels of 15-17%. [subscriber-content]One thing that has always made a big impression on me is how different one Amarone is from another. Small wonder perhaps, as there are differences in grape varieties, sub-zones, vineyards, vine training methods and duration and methods of the ‘appassimento', or the drying of the grapes. Scroll down to see Hulme's Amarone tasting notes & scores [breakout] What is appassimento ? Appassimento is the traditional, natural method of drying grapes for an extended period – typically between 100 to 120 days – to concentrate sugars and flavours. Intriguingly, a grape detached from the vine is not dead: according to experts, many genes in the DNA of the grape are ‘switched on’ during appassimento. During the drying process, the grapes shrink and lose 35-40% of their water and the berries soften. There are metabolic changes which result in higher levels of anthocyanins and polyphenols, as well as various chemical changes which contribute to flavour and aroma. [/breakout] Amarone grapes The classic Amarone grape varieties are Corvina, Corvinone, Molinara and Rondinella, but there’s also an increasing use of historic grape varieties such as Oseleta. The latter adds a lot of structure to wines in the form of tannins and acidity. Corvina and Corvinone lose water very slowly in the drying process and this provides enough time for extensive metabolic change. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, on the other hand, tend to lose water too quickly to allow the development of such complex flavours. During appassimento, Corvina is most susceptible to glycerol-forming botrytis and develops the aromas and flavours of sour cherry, while Oseleta gives smoky, earthy flavours. Molinara contributes acidity as well as black pepper aromas and flavour - some producers like it while others no longer use it. Rondinella, meanwhile, contributes colour and smooth tannins. It is therefore no wonder that there is a fascinating range of Amarone styles. This was made apparent at an Amarone seminar organised recently by the Institute of Masters of Wine in London, featuring 13 Amarone wineries, known collectively as Le Famiglie Storiche and now celebrating their 10th anniversary. La Famiglie Storiche was founded, in the words of its president Alberto Zenato, to ‘protect traditional methods, and to guarantee a high level of quality’. Members comprise Allegrini, Bengali, Brigaldara, Guerrieri Rizzardi, Masi, Musella, Speri, Tedeschi, Tenuta Sant’Antonio, Tommasi, Torre D’Orti, Venturini and Zenato. Amarone styles The Amarones which stood out for me fell into two very distinct styles. There were those from Speri, Tedeschi and Tommasi - deeply coloured, firmly structured, with more grip to the tannins and with darker flavours and aromas. These had a typical ageing potential in the best vintages of 20-25 or even 30 years. Then there were the more ethereal, perfumed Amarones - lighter in colour and less dense but with a fine, perfumed silkiness. They can age for a long time too, but are very pleasurable to drink when young. The best of these at this event were from Musella and Venturini. The ability of the wines to age varied considerably from producer to producer and from one vintage to another. For example, I found Venturini’s Riserva 2001 to be showing beautifully now, while some 2011s were already looking tired. Many of the wines were technically dry with around 4g/l residual sugar but some were as high as 9.8g/l, so there is often a perception of sweetness. This is exaggerated by the increased levels of glycerol which make a wine feel sweeter than it is. Food matching Richly flavoured meat dishes and powerful cheeses are suggested food pairings for Amarone, but I think that some Asian cuisine, such as crispy duck with dark soy sauce, sweet and sour pork, and some curries, would work well too. [/subscriber-content] Susan's 12 Amarone highlights from the tasting: [wine-collection] You may also like: Best Veneto wines: Expert picks Masi Amarone: Comparing terroirs Romano Dal Forno Amarone: 1988-2010 Recioto della Valpolicella vs Amarone: What’s the difference?

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