Following a recent visit to Sicily Decanter's regional editor for Italy, James Button reports on the future for Europe's hottest region.
Below, we present a quick and easy way to see notes and scores for the 65 recommended wines from more than 200 tasted overall.
| Nicosia, Sosta Tre Santi Carricante | Etna | 2019 | 92 | This metodo classico, pas dosé sparkling wine is 100% Carricante from the estate's vineyards in Trecastagni, over 500m above sea level. Aged on its lees for at least 20 months, it opens with a gorgeously exotic, inviting aroma and flavour with some floral lift. It may be pas dose but there's a sweet character on the palate - not from added sugar but from ripeness of fruit. The creamy mousse and caressing sparkle leave room for licks of lime and minerals. Very enjoyable. Click to see full details | |
| Tornatore, Valdemone Brut | Terre Siciliane | 90 | A charmat method 100% Nerello Mascalese sourced from vineyards in Castiglione di Sicilia on the northern slopes of mount Etna but vinified in Trapani on the west coast. Nutty, fenugreek aromas with white flowers and white peach lead to a soft, juicy palate of peach, passion fruit and and citrussy freshness. Succulent and very easy drinking! Click to see full details | ||
| Nicosia, Contrada Monte Gorna Vecchie Viti Bianco | Etna | 2018 | 95 | An old-vine selection from the Monte Gorna vineyard, matured for 12 months in French oak barriques, the Vecchie Viti offers a smokier, more concentrated take on the contrada. Lemon and herb scents and flavours are highlighted by vibrant acidity on the mineral-driven palate. Click to see full details | |
| Pietradolce, Sant'Andrea | Etna | 2017 | 94 | Just 1,800 bottles of Sant'Andrea were made in 2017, from the Archineri vineyard near Milo. The wine represents an effort to reintroduce the traditional style of the estate, spending 10 months on the skins in cask followed by three years in bottle. Like Archineri, it displays a peachy, tropical profile but here there is more brightness, more intensity and a delightful texture. Round, clean, fresh and elegant, it has excellent balance for the long haul. Click to see full details | |
| Nicosia, Contrada Monte Gorna Bianco | Etna | 2020 | 93 | Contrada Monte Gorna is an extinct volcanic cone, located in the commune of Trecastagni on Etna's southeast slope at 700-750m. Cold-macerated for 24 hours to extract aromatics and some structure, the wine is fermented then matured in stainless steel vats with regular batonnage, the wine then undergoes a short passage in acacia tonneaux - which helps to tame the acidity - before spending a further 12 months in bottle before release. Leafy and herbal, it has a very saline aroma with yellow fruits, stone fruits and zesty lemon. In the mouth it's equally breezy and fresh with beautiful oyster shell acidity and flashes of exotic fruits. Long and mouthwatering on the finish, this is an impressive white that offers excellent value. Click to see full details | |
| Pietradolce, Archineri | Etna | 2020 | 93 | Archineri is a single vineyard on the east side of Etna, near Milo, at 850m. Purchased by Pietradolce in 2011, the vines are around 125 years old. Soft and round, it offers voluptuous stone fruits in a hedonistic style, however it's well balanced by saline acidity and streaks of mineral. Click to see full details | |
| Tasca d'Almerita, Tenuta Regaleali Nozze d'Oro | Sicilia | 2019 | 93 | Nozze d'Oro was at the vanguard of Sicilian innovation when it was first created in 1984, and it's still a beacon of quality for the island. A blend of Inzolia and Sauvignon Tasca - a unique biotype of Sauvignon Blanc - grown at over 500 metres on the Regaleali estate in northern-central Sicily, this unoaked white has an initial waxy, lanolin character which opens up to reveal intense yellow plum, tropical fruits, a buttery mid-palate and a stony, spicy finish with plenty of fresh acidity. Click to see full details | |
| Terra Costantino, Contrada Blandano Bianco | Etna | 2017 | 93 | From the oldest vines of the estate, surrounding the winery in Contrada Blandano, this textured, fresh and zingy white is matured in large barrels for six to eight months before spending three years in bottle before release. Scents of grilled pineapple, white flowers, butter, oyster shell and macadamia nuts lead to an equally complex palate. It brings in a wave of freshness to combat its intense, rich and salty character, adding a herbal, minerally finish to a core of grilled pineapple, stone fruits and white flowers. Click to see full details | |
| Alta Mora - Cusumano, Bianco | Etna | 2020 | 92 | A blend of 100% Carricante from three different contradas in Castiglione di Sicilia on Etna's northern flank, this is fresh, mineral and floral on the nose. In the mouth it's really saline, focused yet round and peachy, with some pithy notes bringing balance and depth. Very long. Click to see full details | |
| Baglio di Pianetto, Natyr Insolia | Terre Siciliane | 2016 | 92 | This skin-contact Inzolia is from Pianetto's Palermo estate, at an altitude of 650 metres. Matured on its lees for 24 months, it's a complex - and pretty unique - drop displaying scents of lanolin, honeycomb, apricot skin and floral notes. There's even a hint of Sherry-like flor. In the mouth it is super-intense and vibrant, wrapping up dried fruits, apricot, nuts, orange blossom and citrus peel in a creamy blanket, cut through by very high acidity. Moreish. Click to see full details | |
| Cusumano, Shamaris | Sicilia | 2021 | 92 | From Cusumano's Monte Pietroso estate in Monreale in the island's northwest, where the vines grow at nearly 500 metres above sea level, this is lemony, stony and herbal. Intense peachy notes and super-fresh, saline acidity contrast beautifully. Click to see full details | |
| Cusumano, Solealto | Terre Siciliane | 2019 | 92 | A three-way blend of Inzolia, Zibibbo and Grillo from vineyards in the area of Piana degli Albanesi near Palermo, grown at altitudes of between 700 and 800 metres. A short maceration is followed by fermentation in stainless steel. The various components are blended and matured for around 10 months on the lees, followed by further time in bottle. Rounded yet light on its feet, this is very pure in its vivid fruits and clean acidity. Fragrant floral notes are accompanied by scents and flavours of white peach, yellow plum, apricot skin and orange peel. Intense and delicious. Click to see full details | |
| Duca di Salaparuta, Kados | Sicilia | 2021 | 92 | Sourced from Salemi and Gibellina in western Sicily, this Grillo is slowly fermented in small oak casks for 40 days. It's then racked to stainless steel tanks where it rests on its lees until the following spring. Finally, it spends three months in bottle before release. Kados wrings out all the best qualities of Grillo - fragrance and juicy fruits - allied to the weight and breadth conferred upon it by fermentation in oak. Orange blossom and honey scents are joined by a balsamic quality, followed in the mouth by waves of exotic fruits, apple, stone fruits and perfumed jasmine. All this intensity and voluptuousness is balanced by a dry, saline finish and bright acidity. Click to see full details | |
| Feudo Principi di Butera, Serò Insolia | Sicilia | 2017 | 92 | From Butera in central-southern Sicily, this Inzolia is half fermented in wood and half in stainless steel, staying on the lees with weekly battonage for eight weeks. After blending, the wine is matured in bottle for a further six to eight months. The result is a white bursting with apricot skin and passion fruit scents, balsamic freshness and rich, creamy, waxy flavours of tinned pineapple, white peach, blood orange and citrus peel. Concentrated, complex, long and - most importantly - extremely delicious! Click to see full details | |
| Graci, Bianco | Etna | 2021 | 92 | Fermented and matured in cement tanks for nine months, this white has a peachy, mineral aroma with fresh, floral flavours, a tense, minerally mid-palate and a long, tropical finish. Click to see full details | |
| Graci, Arcuria | Etna | 2020 | 92 | From the Arcuria contrada in Passopisciaro on the north side of Etna at 600-700 metres above sea level, this 100% Carricante is vinified partly in cement tanks and partly in large oak casks. The wine is then aged on its lees in cask for 12 months followed by a further 12 months in bottle. Rich, tight and powerful, it features a mineral-driven palate of peach and florals. Click to see full details | |
| MandraRossa, Grillo | Sicilia | 2021 | 92 | From vines in Menfi, this is MandraRossa's first vintage of this Grillo but it's a stunner: a fresh, honeyed stone fruit character is outlined in the mouth by pink grapefruit and a herbal, super-mineral finish. Click to see full details | |
| Tenuta Rapitalà, Conte Hugues | Sicilia | 2020 | 92 | Conte Hugues is the historic wine of the estate. A steel-fermented and barrique-aged Chardonnay grown at 450m above sea level, it displays subtle tropical notes alongside spice and dried fruit aromas. In the mouth it's intense, buttery and juicy, the 20% new wood well integrated with tropical fruits and the finish fresh and saline. Click to see full details | |
| Benanti, Contrada Rinazzo | Etna (Superiore) | 2021 | 91 | Etna pioneer Benanti has vineyards on every side of the volcano but its holding in Milo on the eastern slopes is particularly unique as this is the only area that qualifies for the rare Etna Superiore label. Contrada Rinazzo is a steep terraced vineyard at 800m above sea level on ancient lava flows. Light but well balanced, this has a saline, peachy quality with white flowers and touches of nuttiness. Lemon and lanolin complete the finish. Click to see full details | |
| Cantina Horus, Sole e Terra Gillo | Sicilia | 2021 | 91 | From vines in Ragusa, southeastern Sicily, grown at 170 metres above sea level. Ten percent of the wine is fermented in oak barriques, while the rest ferments in stainless steel. It spends around 20 days on its lees with batonnage before racking to stainless steel tanks where it spends three months, followed by a further four months in bottle. The result is a Grillo of succulence and tension; mineral with bright lemon and lime notes alongside white peach and passionfruit. Intense, long and saline. Delicious! Click to see full details | |
| Cusumano, Jalè | Sicilia | 2020 | 91 | This rich, impressively tropical Chardonnay comes from grapes grown at over 700 metres above sea level, matured for six to eight months in French oak barriques. It has a round body with integrated wood notes and a long, fresh finish. Click to see full details | |
| Donnafugata, Sul Vulcano Bianco | Etna | 2019 | 91 | From grapes grown at 700-750m on Etna's northern side, this Etna Bianco combines incisive lemon acidity and lemony scents with taut minerality, juicy peach and a scattering of herbs. Matured for 10 months in a mixture of stainless steel and used French oak barriques, then in bottle for a further nine months. Click to see full details | |
| Duca di Salaparuta, Bianca di Valguarnera | Terre Siciliane | 2019 | 91 | An oak-aged Inzolia from Salemi in central-western Sicily, offering up scents of orange blossom, white peach, apricot and a touch of passion fruit. Rich, buttery and creamy in the mouth, its juicy stone fruit flavours and fresh, clean acidity adeptly balance the oak weight. Click to see full details | |
| Fazio, Aegades | Erice | 2021 | 91 | A fresh, unoaked Grillo grown at around 350 metres above sea level in the Erice DOC in western Sicily. It's really exotic and floral, with intense flavours of yellow plum, tinned peaches, lemon, orange peel and hints of passion fruit, all balanced by refreshing acidity. Click to see full details | |
| Feudo Maccari, Family and Friends | Terre Siciliane | 2020 | 91 | The name for this Grillo comes from the fact that originally, this wine was made purely for the family (and their friends!). Located near Notto, just 1km from the sea in southeast Sicily, the grapes for this white are fermented partly in concrete eggs and partly in small barrels, aged in the same vessels for at least six months then bottled six months prior to release. Peachy and saline on the nose, in the mouth it is floral and juicy with structured yellow plum and a fresh finish. Approximately 10,000 bottles made. Click to see full details | |
| Giasira, Keration | Terre Siciliane | 2021 | 91 | A round and fresh Catarratto (locally known as 'Lucido') from calcareous soils in southeast Sicily, combining peach and pineapple fruits with super-saline acidity and a breezy, floral finish. Matured for six months on its fine lees then three months in bottle. Click to see full details | |
| MandraRossa, Bertolino Soprano | Sicilia | 2019 | 91 | This is Mandrarossa's oaked Grillo, as opposed to its new unoaked version. It's aged in large barrels for around 11 months, which lends subtle weight and texture without all those oaky flavours. Fragrant jasmine, honey, peach and lemon scents lead to a palate with a good intensity of orange blossom and beautifully floral white peach. A honeyed vein runs through the core, while the acidity keeps it fresh and alive. Click to see full details | |
| Pietradolce, Bianco | Etna | 2021 | 91 | Pietradolce's entry-level Etna Bianco is from younger vines grown at 800m on the northern slopes of Mt Etna. Perfumed and fruity, it shows great balance with a tightness across the waist. Click to see full details | |
| Tenuta Rapitalà, Vigna Casali | Alcamo (Classico) | 2021 | 91 | These Catarratto vines grow at 600m in Camporeale, in the province of Palermo. At this altitude the grape shines, and here it displays wonderful floral, herbal and lemony aromas and intense saline, peach and apple flavours. It has good texture thanks to a short passage in French oak barrels on its lees. Mineral and fresh, with a long, bright finish. Click to see full details | |
| Terra Costantino, deAetna Bianco | Etna | 2020 | 91 | Located in Contrada Blandano, southeast of Etna, this Bianco is macerated on its skins for five hours and fermented and aged in stainless steel. A co-fermentation of 80% Carricante, 15% Catarratto and 5% Minella, it has stony, peachy and floral scents and a textured, mineral palate with juicy stone fruits and Mediterranean herbs. Click to see full details | |
| Casa Grazia, Zahara Grillo | Sicilia | 2021 | 90 | Leafy and lemony, this salty Grillo is laden with lime juice and pithy citrus peel, apple and peach. A light, fresh expression from the nature reserve surrounding Lake Biviere in the north east of the island. Click to see full details | |
| Donnafugata, Passiperduti | Sicilia | 2021 | 90 | This brand new wine from Donnafugata's vineyards in the southwest of the island is textured and mineral, bursting with zesty lemon, fragrant herbs and pithy grapefruit. Delicious! Click to see full details | |
| Tasca d'Almerita, Mozia Grillo | Sicilia | 2021 | 90 | Mozia is a tiny island in the Stagnone Lagoon, just a few kilometres off the coast of Marsala. This Grillo, grown on loose sandy soils rich in limestone, displays super-fresh lemon with a salty, pithy character with a dash of herbs. It has a round yet sculpted body. A perfect summer white to get the taste buds going. Click to see full details | |
| Tenuta Rapitalà, Viviri Grillo | Sicilia | 2021 | 90 | From vines in Camporeale in northwestern Sicily, grown on mostly clay soils, this Grillo undergoes a soft press under Nitrogen to avoid any oxidation. Peachy and saline, it has good intensity of fruit with some pithy peel and floral touches. Click to see full details | |
| Donnafugata, Lighea | Sicilia | 2021 | 88 | Lighea is 100% Zibibbo from Donnafugata's estate in Pantelleria. This variety is very aromatic, and this wine is stuffed with super-fragrant jasmine, white peach and orange blossom. Fresh, soft and round, what it lacks in complexity it makes up for in instant appeal. Click to see full details | |
| Graci, Rosato | Etna | 2021 | 93 | Vinified and aged in cement tanks, this is one of the finest Etna Rosato encountered this year. Softly pressed, it has a light summer berry aroma with a stony edge, while in the mouth it is intense, juicy and mineral, displaying beautiful cherry fruit and fantastic balance. Click to see full details | |
| Tasca d'Almerita, Tenuta Tascante Tefra Rosato | Etna | 2021 | 93 | From a parcel of Nerello Mascalese vines in Contrada Rampante comes this Rosato. It has just three to four hours of skin contact and is matured on its fine lees in stainless steel vats. Intense and tangy red fruits are defined by saline acidity and a touch of structure, with a long, mineral finish. Click to see full details | |
| Pietradolce, Rosato | Etna | 2021 | 92 | This Rosato, made with a very short skin contact of around three hours, is delicious. Super-mineral and clean, with a long tail of fresh and tangy red fruits, it's far too easy to go back for another glass. Click to see full details | |
| Tornatore, Rosato | Etna | 2020 | 92 | Pure, ripe cherry and wild strawberry fragrances with some balsamic lift, enhancing the perception of being super-fresh. Slightly jammy red fruit flavours are accompanied by a touch of white pepper, stone and white peach. Complex and long. Click to see full details | |
| Benanti, Rosato | Etna | 2021 | 91 | Benanti - one of the most established producers on Etna - only began producing rosé in 2017. The estate aims for a darker colour than is typically fashionable, harking back to the area's traditional rosatos of the past. 'If you want to extract flavour, you have to compromise with the colour,' explained Salvino Benanti. Eight hours of skin contact gives this example - from the very hot 2021 vintage - good intensity and some tannic structure. Fresh red apple, cherry and lemon stand out, with a touch of cream and spice and a really long, fresh finish. Click to see full details | |
| Dimore di Giurfo, Pian della Signora | Terre Siciliane | 2021 | 90 | Grown at 550 metres in the area of Ragusa in southeast Sicily, this soft and round expression of Frappato is incredibly fresh. Gentle cherry and strawberry fruits lead to a dry, stony finish which leaves you wanting more. Click to see full details | |
| Tasca d'Almerita, Tenuta Tascante Contrada Sciaranuova VV | Etna | 2017 | 96 | Sciaranuova is located at 730m above sea level on Etna's northern slopes. The 4.9 hectares of dry stone terraced vineyard are on ancient lava flows ranging from 4,000 to 40,000 years old. Intense, ripe and textured, it displays a good concentration of fleshy red fruits with notes of liquorice, balsam, cocoa, leather and soft spices. Broad-shouldered and ageable, it finishes elegantly with a long, mineral tang. Click to see full details | |
| Graci, Feudo di Mezzo | Etna | 2019 | 95 | Feudo di Mezzo is the estate's first site to be harvested every year. Here, on the northern side of Etna, Graci has 1.5 hectares of 80-year-old vines at 600 metres above sea level. Fermented traditionally, with no temperature control, a long 30-day maceration and 18 months in large oak vats, it has a gorgeous black cherry scent with a stemmy, herbal character. Full, rich, tangy and mineral, it perfectly balances power and elegance. Click to see full details | |
| Pietradolce, Barbagalli | Etna | 2017 | 95 | Barbagalli is a one-hectare amphitheatre of 80- to 100-year-old vines in Contrada Rampante on Etna's northern slopes at 950m, producing up to 2,000 bottles. It undergoes maceration on the skins for 18 days in concrete tanks, followed by 20 months in French tonneaux. It has a huge structure paired with masses of freshness characterised by a balsamic character and clean acidity. The wood has yet to integrate but it's clear that this is one of Etna's finest reds: black cherry, earth, dark berries and some dried fruit give it a sense of plushness, while the fine tannins and lively acidity give it the legs to last. Click to see full details | |
| Benanti, Serra Della Contessa Particella No. 587 Riserva | Etna | 2016 | 94 | The second vintage of this Etna Riserva, made from a small parcel of ungrafted centenarian vines in Contrada Monte Serra on the southeast slope of Etna at 500m. Fragrant, intense and rich, it combines potpourri and black cherry scents with mouth-coating tannins and big acidity on the fresh, balanced and chewy palate. It finishes with floral and chocolatey notes. This is a big wine which deserves time in the cellar before broaching. Click to see full details | |
| Graci, Arcuria Sopra il Pozzo | Etna | 2017 | 94 | Sopra il Pozzo in the Arcuria contrada was identified, following research in 2004, as having a different soil type to all the other vineyards in the area: alternating layers of stone and coarse sand. Made only in the best years, this single-vineyard expression is traditionally fermented in oak vats with a very long maceration time. It's matured for 18 months in large oak vats, followed by 12 months in bottle. The 2017 vintage was a tough year and the team had to do some green harvesting. The resulting wine is full of fragrant and tangy red fruits. Grainy tannins on a textured palate lead to a mineral, stony finish with a flash of black cherry and balsam. Tense, mouthwatering and long. Very impressive. Click to see full details | |
| Pietradolce, Contrada Santo Spirito | Etna | 2018 | 94 | Located 4km from Rampante, Contrada Santo Spirito produces around 4,000 bottles. Softer in character than Barbagalli yet with more apparent structure, it's spicy and balsamic with an elegant nose and good tension in the mouth. Intense and tangy red fruits, sweet raisins and fine tannins combine on the textured palate. Click to see full details | |
| Terra Costantino, Contrada Blandano Rosso | Etna | 2017 | 94 | Terra Costantino was Etna's first winery to achieve organic certification, back in 2000. This flagship red is made from the oldest vines of the estate surrounding the winery at 450-550m in Viagrande, some of which are as old as 150 years. Fermented on the skins for around 20 days in concrete tanks then matured in a mixture of concrete and 500L barrels, it's further aged in bottle before release. This is a fragrant red imbued with plenty of character. Potpourri, bright cherry and dried red fruit aromas introduce an intense, sapid and light on its feet palate, bursting with tangy red berries. There's a touch of spice, then a bone-dry mineral mid-palate. Fine, grainy tannins outline the wine, which finishes with a beautiful stony, raspberry and cranberry flourish. Click to see full details | |
| Alta Mora - Cusumano, Guardiola | Etna | 2016 | 93 | Just 3,000 bottles of this 100% Nerello Mascalese were produced in 2016, from vines in Contrada Guardiola in north Etna at around 800m with an average age of 150 years. The fruit is macerated for 18-21 days followed by a soft pressing. Malolactic fermentation takes place in barrel, followed by ageing in 30 and 50hL barrels for 18 months. Tight and tannic, it showcases a muscular framework allied to perfumed red cherry, liquorice, touches of black cherry richness and terracotta, and a stony, mineral finish. Plenty of potential. Click to see full details | |
| Cusumano, Sagana | Sicilia | 2019 | 93 | This single-vineyard Nero d'Avola, from Cusumano's Tenuta San Giacomo estate located on the limestone outcrop of Butera in southern Sicily, is a big wine. It hits 15% alcohol and is aged for 18 months in large casks, yet there is freshness and great mid-palate tension, allied to structural tannins. Aromatic black cherry aromas and flavours accompany intense dark chocolate, spices and herbs. Click to see full details | |
| Tasca d'Almerita, Tenuta Tascante Contrada Sciaranuova | Etna | 2019 | 93 | Located on the northern slopes of Etna, between the hamlets of Montelaguardia and Passopisciaro at around 730 metres, Sciaranuova is a 4.6-hectare vineyard surrounded by chestnut groves. Its black soil is the result of a very old lava flow. The wine is matured mostly in 25hL Slavonian oak casks, with a small portion in 300L French oak tonneaux, for 12 months. Intense and concentrated, it combines creamy, tangy red fruits with vivacious freshness and tension. Click to see full details | |
| Tasca d'Almerita, Tenuta Regaleali Rosso del Conte | Contea di Sclafani | 2016 | 93 | This historic wine was Sicily's first single-vineyard bottling, from a five-hectare vineyard planted in 1959 then extended by 1.5 hectares in 1965. During its long history, Rosso del Conte has adopted various maturation mediums, including chestnut, Slavonian oak and, today, French oak. The 2016 - the current release - was fermented in stainless steel tanks before spending 18 months in small new French oak barriques. Perricone's spiciness immediately comes through in both aroma and flavour, bolstered by Nero d'Avola's rich, sticky and plummy fruits, accompanied by streaks of tangy red berries, black cherry and tobacco. Click to see full details | |
| Torre Mora, Chiuse Vidalba | Etna | 2017 | 93 | A selection of older vines up to around 70 years old in Contrada Dafara Galluzzo in Rovittello, on the northern slope of Etna. The grapes are among the last to be picked by the estate, and the wine spends 18 months in new 500L Slavonian oak tonneaux. It's an atypical style for Etna Rosso: gamey and perfumed, it's intense and concentrated with a dusting of cocoa accompanying black cherry and herbs. A base of fine tannins supports the fruit, while a balsamic waft keeps things fresh and lifted. Click to see full details | |
| Cortese, Boscopiano Frappato | Terre Siciliane | 2019 | 92 | This amphora-aged Frappato is made from a single one-hectare vineyard planted in 2005. After fermentation and malo in small 700L oval amphorae, the wine is topped up to submerge the cap and it's left on its skins for 12 months. It spends a further six months in stainless steel and a final six months in bottle. A deliciously seductive aroma - not of sweet, jammy strawberry but of spicy wild strawberry with earthy nuance - is followed by an intensely fresh and light on its feet palate. There's definitely some terracotta influence in terms of flavour and in terms of softness; the wine is feather light yet has good concentration, balanced by that razor-edged acidity. Spices follow on the finish with some wild herbs and a touch of white pepper and dark chocolate. Lip-smacking and long. 1,900 bottles produced. Click to see full details | |
| Donnafugata, Contrada Marchesa | Etna | 2018 | 92 | This 100% Nerello Mascalese from the north side of Etna balances delicate scents with intense flavours. Aromatic raspberry and balsamic notes accompany fine-grained, sticky tannins. Fresh finish. Macerated for 10-12 days in stainless steel following fermentation, it's then matured for 14 months in used French oak barriques. Click to see full details | |
| Graci, Rosso | Etna | 2020 | 92 | The estate red is fermented and aged in a combination of cement tank and large oak vats. There's a long period of skin contact - about 30 days - and no temperature control during fermentation. Traditional on paper, it's also traditional in the glass with its closed nose and austere palate. It has big structure but also plenty of freshness to balance, with some vibrant cherry, raspberry and black cherry fruits reined in my mineral tension. The finish is long and pure. Click to see full details | |
| Santa Tresa, Avulisi Riserva | Sicilia | 2018 | 92 | This organic Nero d'Avola is produced from the oldest vineyard at Santa Tresa, planted between 1962 and 1964. Fermented using the integrated vinification system, the grapes are placed in modified 225L barriques which have one end replaced by a stainless steel door. This allows pulp, seeds and all to be cleared out from the barrel at the end, but most importantly it allows for a rotation of the barrel to achieve a gentle extraction, rather than the more aggressive pumping over. In fact, it's so gentle that some of the grapes stay intact and undergo a kind of carbonic maceration. The grapes stay on the skins for around 40-45 days before ageing in barriques for 12 months followed by six months in bottle. Earthy, woody, chocolatey and with some red fruit aromas, in the mouth it is intense and beautifully textured, with soft and supple tannins gently supporting a pillowy palate of spicy cherry, raspberry, black cherry and blackberry. There's a significantly spicy mid-palate and a long, fruity yet savoury finish with hints of chocolate, wood and liquorice. Just 1,980 bottles produced. Click to see full details | |
| Torre Mora, Scalunera | Etna | 2019 | 92 | Meaning 'black staircase' in the Sicilian dialect, Scalunera refers to the terraces built from the dark lava stone of the area. Located at 700m in Contrada Dafara Galluzzo on Etna's northern slope, it spends 18 months in a combination of 80% large Slavonian oak barrels and 20% in barriques. Deep, dark and austere, it has fine, ripe and juicy tannins balanced by good acidity. It's still quite closed and requires time to reveal its nuances, but certainly has potential. Click to see full details | |
| Casa Grazia, Gradiva Nero d'Avola | Sicilia | 2019 | 91 | From vines in Gela, to the south of the island, this Nero d'Avola has a chocolatey frame with vibrant red fruits and tobacco. It spends 8-12 months in French barriques and tonneaux, then a further six months in bottle. Click to see full details | |
| Feudo Maccari, Saia | Sicilia | 2019 | 91 | Feudo Maccari's oak-aged Nero d'Avola is sourced from older vines of around 30-40 years old, from higher plots of the estate's vineyards near Avola in southeast Sicily. After a maceration of around 20 days, the wine is matured in French oak barriques for 10-14 months. The result is a rich, structured and textured Nero d'Avola with cherry and dried fruits allied to fragrant potpourri, wood and chestnuts. It has good intensity and finishes with a bright, pure black cherry and raspberry coulis character. Click to see full details | |
| Santa Tresa, O | Terre Siciliane | 2020 | 91 | Made from a rediscovered ancient variety, Orisi, this is a unique red from the Santa Tresa estate near Vittoria. Smoky hints of bonfire and spicy wood accompany a focused palate of fine-tipped acidity, very fine, sandy tannins and bright wild red and black fruits. There's plenty of pepper, with a spicy complexity that must come from the fact the wine stays in contact with its biomass (skins, yeasts etc) for almost an entire year. Finishes spicy yet clean and fresh. Long. Only 2,120 bottles produced. Click to see full details | |
| MandraRossa, Nero d'Avola | Sicilia | 2021 | 90 | A fresh, easy-drinking Nero d'Avola, showing herbal and fruity fragrances with flavours of black cherry, ripe red fruits and a breezy, balsamic finish. Click to see full details | |
| Feudo Maccari, Neré | Sicilia | 2019 | 89 | Neré is one of Feudo Maccari's two Nero d'Avola red wines; this one is made purely in stainless steel, while Saia sees some oak. Here, grapes from younger vines macerate for a shorter time (around 15 vs 20 days) and then mature in stainless steel. Fragrant aromas of pot pourri, dried black fruits and Parma violets lead to fresh, ripe, sticky red and black fruits in the mouth. Easy drinking. Click to see full details | |
| Giasira, Morhum | Terre Siciliane | 2018 | 89 | Nerello Mascalese is by no means restricted to just Etna, and this southeast expression from vines at 180-250m on calcareous soils is a fine example of the potential of the grape elsewhere on the island. A fragrant cherry nose follows through to the fresh and intense palate, joined by strawberry and a touch of liquorice. After a long maceration, the wine is matured for nine months in steel then a further nine months in 25hL casks. Click to see full details | |
| Planeta, Frappato | Vittoria | 2021 | 87 | From Acate, near Vittoria, this 2021 is the first certified organic vintage from Planeta, which has spent the last few years converting its vineyards. A deliciously simple Frappato, full of cherry and strawberry fruit with a subtle touch of spice. It finishes a little bit short, but its light, fragrant style is just what's needed when the sun is out. Click to see full details |