Victoria’s stunning inland landscapes are home to some of Australia’s greatest wine regions. From the Italian heritage of the King Valley to some of the world’s oldest vines in the Goulburn Valley, character, diversity and innovation abound. There are some truly exciting producers and stunning wines to discover.
Rory Lane owns The Story Wines in the suburbs of Melbourne, Victoria. Credit: Kate Enno.
Vintage Victoria
The Story Wines, one of Victoria’s most unique projects, was inspired by the state’s diverse heritage. Rory Lane’s winery is located in the suburbs of Melbourne but he sources grapes from all over the state. Most come from the Grampians where ‘vines date back to the 1860s and where Shiraz is medium bodied, pepper spicy and ages magnificently,’ Lane explains. ‘While inland Victoria may be less well understood than the Melbourne dress-circle regions, anyone who’s anyone in wine knows the history and quality of the Grampians.’
Lane also works with vineyards in Henty, Nagambie and Whitlands in the King Valley, producing styles and varieties to meet the market’s needs, from single variety Syrahs and Rieslings, to Marsanne/Rousanne/Viognier blends and even a Pet Nat Prosecco. ‘Our winery is located right in the heart of suburban Melbourne, so we do benefit from a big sample size of customers.’
Robert Walters established the Place of Changing Winds winery in Mt Macedon, Victoria. Credit: Adrian Lander.
Regional Diversity
Place of Changing Winds, established by Robert Walters – well-known owner of the Bibendum Wine Co. which imports and distributes international and domestic wines – focuses on innovative viticultural practices in one of Victoria’s special micro-climates.
Walters started planting in 2012 in Mt Macedon, Australia’s coolest mainland wine region, at a very high density, from 10,000 to 33,000 vines per hectare. This unique method – not seen in Australia, let alone internationally – results in a more balanced canopy and smaller bunches. There is also a focus on the health of the soil by not using any chemical products. ‘We are utilising the area’s natural ability to gift elegance and finesse,’ explains Walters.
Vineyards at the Place of Changing Winds winery in Mt Macedon, Victoria, where vines are planted at a very high density, from 10,000 to 33,000 vines per hectare. Credit: Adrian Lander.
Walters revels in the diversity of Victoria. ‘Where we are, on the southern foothills of Mt Macedon, can be radically different from producers only a ten-minute drive away.’ He takes advantage of the red Cambrian soils and warmer sites of Heathcote, and the granitic soils of Harcourt to the north, to grow varieties like Syrah and Marsanne to complement the winery’s Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Jane Campbell is managing director at Campbells of Rutherglen winery in northeastern Victoria. Credit: Anitra Wells.
The Muscat Mile
Some of Victoria’s oldest producers are also looking for ways to experiment. Campbells of Rutherglen, founded in 1870, is managed by the family’s fifth generation and recently released a Shiraz Durif that the winery describes as having luscious fruit characters of freshly picked summer berries, juicy cherries and satsuma plums. ‘Each year we look at potential new wines to capture a new audience – labelling is a key factor to attract the eye of new consumers,’ explains managing director Jane Campbell.
Campbells of Rutherglen produce fortified wines made from Muscat à Petits Grains Rouges. Credit: Snowgum Marketing.
Still, the family’s historic fortified wines remain critical to its success. ‘The heart and soul of the winery is amongst our fortified casks that are now well over 155 years old,’ Campbell says. Rutherglen is home to one of the world’s great sweet wines made from Muscat à Petits Grains Rouges – known locally as Rutherglen Brown Muscat – which is blended in a solera system of different vintages to gain harmony and complexity.
Some wines, like the Grand Rutherglen Muscat are aged for up to 19 years, while Rare Rutherglen Muscat can be aged for 20 years or more, making these some of the most exceptional aged wines in Australia.
For Campbell, the aim is simple. ‘To continue to make wines with style and consistency and to ensure that our visitor experience and expectations are exceeded with every visit.’ Certainly these wines will continue to surprise and delight for many years to come.
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