The Charm of Crémant de Bourgogne

Despite being better known for its still whites and reds, Bourgogne has in fact a long-standing history of sparkling wine production, dating back to the early 1800s with Napoléon III and Empress Eugénie among the first to taste the delights of the region’s effervescent nectar.

Until as late as 1975, when Crémant de Bourgogne achieved official designated appellation status – to complement Bourgogne Mousseux, the title for sparkling red wines – grapes were sourced from the most prestigious Burgundian Grands Crus. Even today there isn’t a single village in the region that doesn’t produce grapes destined for a bottle of Crémant de Bourgogne, giving the category a remarkable diversity of styles.

With the introduction of the appellation, production methods and stylistic requirements were more strictly defined. These stipulated that only white and rosé styles qualify and that production must follow the ‘traditional’ or ‘classic’ method, meaning that secondary fermentation, to produce the bubbles, happens inside the bottles in which the wines are sold. Crémants de Bourgogne may be labelled as Blanc de Blancs (if made exclusively from white grapes) or Blanc de Noirs (if only the juice of black- skinned grapes is used). Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the only two primary grapes and must comprise at least 30% of the blend – most wines are, however, made either exclusively or mostly from these two varieties. It is possible to find some Crémants which make use of secondary grapes including Aligoté and Gamay (a maximum of 20%), such as Louis Picamelot’s Les Terroirs, listed below. And although two others are permitted – Melon de Bourgogne and Sacy – they are rarely seen in blends.

The character of Crémant de Bourgogne of course depends on the final blend as well as on vineyard location, which gives them wonderfully marked regional identities. Wines made from the chalky subsoils of the Joigny district in the north are typically tauter and leaner than the more generous, round offerings of the granitic soils of the south. On the other hand, the limestone and marls of the côtes (slopes) on which most of the wines in the region are grown offer minerality, tension and power.

Blanc de Blancs tend to be perfumed with citrus fruit nuances developing more stone fruit and toasty brioche notes as they age. These generally exhibit freshness and high acidity, working perfectly as an accompaniment to shellfish. Blanc de Noirs express aromas of berry fruit when youthful, with age adding dried fruit, honey and spiced notes. These often have more structure and body, pairing excellently with white
meat. The rosé style is usually delicate and refined with floral and summer berry aspects, a smooth texture and lingering aftertaste which often matches well with fruit-based desserts.

With such diversity of style, as well as non-vintage and vintage variations, the category offers something for everyone. Above all, these wines are fresh and vibrant, with attractive aromatics and bright flavours. And also being relatively low alcohol makes them particularly versatile and enjoyable wines to serve on their own or with food.

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Six Crémants de Bourgogne to try: