The 2024 vision of Australian Shiraz is both surprising and exciting – and innovative producers in the country’s southeast are demonstrating the versatility of styles and expressions that can be made in this first-rate region.
To explore what’s happening within this dynamic sector, you’ll need to visit Victoria, Australia’s second-smallest state, down in its southeastern corner. Specifically, you’ll need to dive into the area dubbed ‘Shiraz Central’ – home to cool-climate Shiraz that is thriving in typical Australian bush settings that spread across seven distinct wine regions: the Grampians, the Pyrenees, Ballarat, Bendigo, Heathcote, Goulburn Valley and the Macedon Ranges.
How can all this be going on across such a broad area, you ask? The best way to understand is to visit some of the more than 120 cellar doors open to the public. Here, you can taste the difference between the different Shiraz interpretations across the state, and learn about a diverse terroir that is playing a major role in rewriting the modern Shiraz conversation.
Aussie pioneers
Excitement around Victorian Shiraz is no recent phenomenon. Best’s Great Western began producing Shiraz in the granite belt within the western Pyrenees region from 1866 – and has steadfastly maintained the attention of wine experts, having won Australia’s most famous wine award, the Jimmy Watson Trophy, in 2012. Best’s formed part of a pioneer Shiraz movement in Victoria that included such industry stalwarts as Seppelt, Taltarni and Mount Avoca, and this has only expanded and flourished since.
Credit: SHERPA Projects Pty Ltd for Wine Victoria.
A rich heritage – and new interpretations
There’s deep Shiraz tradition to be found elsewhere in the state too – especially at historic producer Tahbilk in the Nagambie region of central Victoria, which first planted Shiraz vines in 1860. Unsurprisingly perhaps, such rich heritage has inspired young mavericks to chart their own course, embracing more energetic modern styles that employ higher percentages of whole bunch fruit in ferments to lift perfumes without amplifying body weight or alcohol.
This has led to exciting new interpretations of lithe, energetic Shiraz from the likes of Sutton Grange Estate of Bendigo, Lyons Will Estate of the Macedon Ranges and Place of Changing Winds which blends its Shiraz grapes from Heathcote and Bendigo source vineyards.
Credit: SHERPA Projects Pty Ltd for Wine Victoria.
Emerging stars
This is only the tip of a vast movement – and Victoria’s Shiraz story keeps unfolding. There is plenty of room for many styles, and multiple astute interpretations of this grape variety. But the eye of wine aficionados must sweep wide across Victoria – for the quest is to keep finding exciting and expertly nurtured Shiraz wines of distinctive character, as they emerge, vintage after vintage.
Explore the region’s top five recent DWWA winners
Bare Bones, Shiraz, Great Western (Grampians), Victoria, Australia 2021
100% Shiraz
Ripe red fruits, lively white peppercorns and oaky spice with lashings of fresh acidity, a lip-smacking texture and sustaining line of tannin. Long and sumptuous. 95 points.
Trentham, Estate Reserve Shiraz, Heathcote, Victoria. Australia 2022
100% Shiraz
Dark and concentrated wine, showing layers of rose petals, black pepper, red and black fruits. Juicy and gentle, weighty palate. 94 points.
Mount Langi Ghiran, Cliff Edge Shiraz, Grampians, Victoria, Australia 2021
100% Shiraz
Minty nose, displaying spicy scents of cracked black pepper, vanilla and ripe black fruits. Warm and juicy palate. Long finish. 94 points.
Taltarni Vineyards Estate Shiraz, Pyrenees, Victoria, Australia 2022
91% Shiraz, 7% Mourvèdre, 1% Viognier
Red fruit and a hint of tobacco on the nose, clove, spice, almond, liquorice and raspberry on the palate. 92 points.
Blue Pyrenees Estate, Richardson Reserve Shiraz, Pyrenees, Victoria, Australia 2020
100% Shiraz
Lovely spiced cherry nose, while the palate is laced with vanilla, blackberry, spiced pepper, tobacco and a neat acidity. 93 points.
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