Mas de la Dame: Elegance in Provence
Elie Lloyd Ellis
Nestled in Provence’s Alpilles (‘little Alps’), Mas de la Dame is run by fourth-generation sister team Caroline Missoffe and Anne Poniatowski. Standing among the vines and olive trees beneath the hilltop village of Les Baux-de-Provence (the name of the AP many of the estate’s wines are classified as), it’s not difficult to see why this spectacular property was the subject of a Van Gogh painting. In its 58ha vineyard, the Ecocert-certified domaine grows Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Cabernet Sauvignon, which make up its red and rosé offerings, while white varieties include Rolle, Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Semillon and Roussanne. The La Stèle rosé and white are immensely refreshing and eminently quaffable, but the standouts from a recent visit were their barrel-fermented counterparts, both aged for a year on the lees. Coin Caché Blanc 2022, a blend of Roussanne, Rolle, Clairette and Grenache Blanc, offers complex toasty, buttery brioche, alongside bruised pear and a touch of hazelnut. Bois de Rose 2022, made from predominantly Grenache and Mourvèdre, has a refined floral quality alongside an abundance of crunchy red fruit and toasty notes. The estate also produces a variety of olive oils, including a moreish and peppery single-variety Grossane.
A visit to Tenuta San Guido
James Button
Just as the annual summer break was getting underway in early August, I visited Bolgheri to taste through the new 2021 vintage of Bolgheri Superiore. While there, I was lucky enough to be able to grab some time with general manager and production manager Carlo Paoli and his winemaking team at Tenuta San Guido. Not only did he open a selection of vintages of Sassicaia ranging from 1990 (black tea, capers, energetic yet soft; £417.20 Nickolls & Perks) to 2019 (‘In my opinion, one of the best vintages of Sassicaia’; £260-£290 Carrington Wine, Nemo Wine Cellars, Rise & Vine), but we also tasted 2022 barrel samples from various plots. We then made a rough and ready blend that, to everyone’s surprise, was rather well balanced. Paoli explained that it usually takes his small team (himself, plus Matilda and Alessio) around two months to create the final blend, which goes to show just how much attention to detail, and trial and error, goes into making Sassicaia. The 2022 vintage of Sassicaia will be released in March 2025 via importer Armit Wines.
Experimental Spain
Ines Salpico
It was well worth emerging from maternity leave on a rainy summer afternoon to meet winemakers Sara Bañuelos and Paula Fandiño. The technical directors of the sister wineries were in London to present the results of a series of experiments they’re conducting collaboratively to expand their already authoritative knowledge of, respectively, Verdejo and Albariño. The explorations of the effects of fermentation/ageing vessels, lees ageing, terroir and style prompted a thought-provoking discussion, each sample tasted raising broader questions about climate change, shifting consumer demand and regional identity. We tasted latest releases, among which were Mar de Frades’ delicious Albariño Brut Nature NV (£21.50-£31.50 ND John, Origin Spain, Shelved Wine, Wine Republic) and benchmark Finca Valiñas 2018 (£32 The Great Wine Co), and Ramón Bilbao’s gastronomic Verdejo Sobre Lías 2021 (£16.21 The Great Wine Co) and unctuous Finca Las Amedias 2019. Little Carmen got a masterclass on both winemaking expertise and female leadership – it’s never too early.
Shoreditch Wine finds
Amy Wislocki
If you didn’t know it was there, you’d probably miss it, but behind the discreet sign for London’s Shoreditch Wine House lies a treasure trove of lovingly chosen bottles – including 35 by the glass – to enjoy with cheese and charcuterie. Established five years ago by three sommeliers who met at Butlers Wharf Chop House, the vision is to help make Shoreditch a food and wine mecca. There’s no gin, whisky or beer on offer, just more than 450 bins of mainly small-volume wines sourced directly from producers – standout wines that wouldn’t otherwise be imported. Discoveries on a recent visit included the 2018 vintage of Maritana, Dutton Ranch Shop Block 1967 Chardonnay (£129 or £85 to take out) from California’s Russian River Valley. Made by Donald Patz (ex-Patz & Hall) from some of the oldest vines in the appellation. It’s everything Californian Chardonnay should be: opulent and creamy with toasty warmth, but lively acidity to balance. The Sierra Almagrera, Caballo Español Gold Edition 2018 (£189, £145 to take out), meanwhile, is a Shiraz-Tempranillo blend from Andalucía, from vines grown in a sub-desert Mediterranean climate. It’s intensely fruity, but with a marked sense of place. Worth a detour.
Damascene Conversion
Julie Sheppard
Former Boekenhoutskloof head winemaker Jean Smit is now pursuing his own South African projects, in the shape of Moya Meaker – cool climate Riesling and Pinot from Elgin – and Damascene. The latter’s site-specific range includes Semillon from Franschhoek and Chenin Blancs from Stellenbosch and Swartland, plus Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon from Stellenbosch and a trio of Syrahs from Stellenbosch, Swartland and Ceres Plateau. Each attached to a specific terroir, these are wines that seek to convey a unique sense of place, as I discovered when I tasted the new 2022 releases with Smit in the summer. Highlights were the Damascene, Syrah from Ceres Plateau (94pts, £26.50 in bond via Lea & Sandeman), a wine that speaks of high-altitude freshness and the minerality of shale soils; and the Damascene, Semillon from Franschhoek (94pts, £26.50 in bond via Lea & Sandeman), from old bush vines planted in 1942 and 1962. The decomposed sandstone of La Chataigne vineyard on the banks of the Franschhoek river imparts a delicious saltiness and chalky texture to the taut, vibrant palate. Both will certainly develop further with time in bottle. One to watch…
