Driving through the countryside of Champagne, I try to put a name to the exact shade of rapeseed yellow that intersperses the lush green of the vines. Sadly my wine-shade lexicon proves unhelpful in this situation and I have to settle on the rather underwhelming: vivid.
Vivid, as it turns out, is a rather good description of the region as a whole. Of course the wines, both the sparklings and lesser-known stills, are characteristically vivid, with bright acidity and minerality, thanks to the region’s cool climate and terroir. However, so too is the overall feeling of the region thanks to its UNESCO World Heritage listing, granted in 2015.
The listing is not only a source of pride for the people and winemakers of Champagne, but has also led to a marked uptick in the opening of high-end shops and experiences, according to Thibaut Le Mailloux, director of marketing and communications at Champagne Gosset, who was previously director of communications at Champagne’s regional body the Comité Champagne.
Here, then, is a guide to exploring the luxury side of the region, focused on the three key areas in which to base yourself: Reims, Epernay and Aÿ.
Reims
The famous illuminated staircase at Veuve Clicquot. Credit: Veuve Cliquot
It may be one of the most well-known Champagne houses – and its story has recently been made into a film, released in August 2024 – but Veuve Clicquot really does offer one of the slickest tours in town. Plus the illuminated yellow staircase offers a fantastic photograph opportunity.
Veuve Clicquot’s Manoir de Verzy, located on the edge of the grand cru village of Verzy around 20km south of Reims, is a spectacular private manor which can be rented out for gastronomic experiences and Champagne tastings.
The maison also runs a number of luxury events and experiences throughout the year which are open to the public, such as harvest lunches, end of year dinners, picnics, cellar tours and back-vintage tastings.
Veuve Clicquot’s stunning Manoir de Verzy. Credit: Veuve Clicquot.
Champagne Jacquart’s home since 2009 has been the historical Hôtel de Brimont, which was originally the seat of the Ruinart family and was also occupied by America’s president Eisenhower’s aides-de-camp during World War II.
Jacquart opened its doors to the public in 2024, the first time since its creation as a cooperative in 1964, and now offers a range of tastings and visits inside the Hôtel de Brimont itself.
The city of Reims itself is worth wandering around. One of my favourite sites is the Gothic masterpiece of Reims cathedral in which 25 kings were crowned. More than 2,300 statues adorn both the façade and the internal space, and the spectacular stained glass windows would make a rainbow jealous.
For a unique tour of the city head to the tourism office on Rue Rockefeller, named after American benefactor John D Rockefeller who partially funded the rebuilding of the cathedral after it was heavily damaged during World War I, and ask for a map of the city’s Art Deco sites.
The Art Deco features in Reims’ Carnegie library.
Stops include the Carnegie Library – the construction of which was funded by American steel magnate and benefactor Andrew Carnegie – and the covered market of Halles Boulingrin which sells specialty foods, produce and flowers on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays and hosts occasional cultural activities on the mezzanine level.
Places to eat in Reims
Le Bocal – located at the back of their fishmonger stall, the menu changes a little depending on the catch of the day, but expect a large selection of oysters, shellfish, lobster, caviar and fish.
Le Coq Rouge – a friendly wine bar, with a good wine list and small plates.
Le Parc – set in the beautiful Domaine Les Crayères hotel, this two-star Michelin restaurant is headed up by chef Christophe Moret, who has worked with the likes of Alain Ducasse, Bruno Cirino and Jacques Maximin. Pastry chef Rosalie Boucher previously at Le Meurice, Paris, and head sommelier Nicolas Grelier complete an impressive hospitality line up.
Le Foch – this restaurant is a must for the cheese cart alone. Try the Langres, a soft, washed-rind, cow’s milk cheese made in the Plateau de Langres, in the Champagne region.
La Cave aux Fromages – a truly delightful cheese shop.
Aÿ
Champagne house Henri Giraud has made a name for itself by doing things differently, bringing a dynamism that you might not expect from a Champagne house with almost 400 years of history.
Headed up by winemaker Sébastien Le Golvet and CEO Emmanuelle Giraud – the 13th generation of the Giraud family – a visit to the winery will instil a whole new level of appreciation for oak barrels, as this house only uses wood from the Argonne Forest (less than 100km from Reims), where each tree is chosen with pinpoint precision.
The luxe treatment
Relax at the lavish Manoir Henri Giraud. Credit: Henri Giraud.
Manoir Henri Giraud, the newly refurbished 19th century manor house on the Henri Giraud estate, contains a luxury hotel and spa. The manor’s old underground cellar has been transformed into the spa, called Bain de Terroir, complete with treatment rooms and swimming pool (with two submerged stationary bikes).
The manor also has a purpose built tasting area, where you can experience incredible and well-thought out food and wine pairings, with the food prepared in front of you by the in-house chef. A particular highlight is the Ratafia de Champagne, a delectable sweet aperitif made by fortifying unfermented grape must.
If you choose to stay overnight you can relax in one of the hotel’s suites and treat yourself to room service; caviar is available, and I would suggest trying the Argonne cuvée 2015, which is truly exceptional.
Staying in Aÿ, it makes sense to pop into another Champagne house that helped to revitalise Champagne, and notably the rosé category: Billecart-Salmon.
The estate isn’t open to walk-ins and you must request a visit through their concierge service, but it’s worth the effort to marvel at the perfectly coiffed French-style gardens alone.
If you’re keen on stretching the legs, it’s a 2.9km walk from Henri Giraud to Billecart-Salmon, mostly along the canal, and you can even make a little detour to Boulangerie Patrick Baillet, an unassuming-looking bakery on a typical French village square which took first prize in the National Best Traditional Baguette Competition (Concours National de la Meilleure Baguette de Tradition Française) in 2022.
Boutique hotel and restaurant Le Clos Corbier. Credit: Le Clos Corbier
A stone’s throw from Billecart-Salmon is the gorgeous setting of Le Clos Corbier. A Champagne house in its own right, it also has one of the nicest restaurants in the area, La Table du Clos. Here you’ll find a small menu with each course including a Champagne element.
Event for your diary
For those planning to visit during the first weekend of July, keep an eye out for the Fêtes Henri IV. Taking place once every two years (the next edition will be 2025), it’s a festival dedicated to Champagne which celebrates the French King Henri IV’s proclivity for the local wines. Receiving some 25,000 visitors, there is live music, spectacles, fireworks, artisanal products, local food and of course Champagne to drink.
Epernay
Le 19 wine bar at the Champagne winegrowers syndicat on the Avenue de Champagne. Credit: Syndicat général des vignerons de la Champagne
I never tire of walking down Epernay’s famous Avenue de Champagne, which is an architectural delight. Anecdotally, residents call it the most expensive street in the world thanks to the vast amount of Champagne stored in the cellars underneath.
Many of the big houses here have drop-in wine bars where you can enjoy a glass or a bottle but I like to make a beeline to Le 19, a shop and wine bar located in the courtyard of the headquarters of the Syndicat Général des Vignerons de la Champagne (Champagne winergrowers syndicat). Representing more than 100 winegrowers and cooperatives, it offers a daily rotating tasting of three Champagnes, with bottles available to purchase too. Often one of the winemakers will make an appearance to chat.
Event for your diary
For visitors in December (13-15 in 2024) the Avenue plays host to Les Habits de Lumière, where the buildings’ façades are illuminated, there are street performances, Michelin chef demonstrations, patisserie competitions and a vintage vehicle parade.
Buoyed up by bubbles, head across the road to explore another kind of buoyancy: the Le Ballon d’Epernay. While I have to say I’m not the greatest fan of heights, this hot balloon ride offers 360-degree views with the horizon stretching out across the Marne Valley, Côte des Blancs and Montagne de Reims.
Once back on terra firma, head back down the avenue to Champagne PerrierJouët to eat at the Maison Belle Epoque. This 18th century property houses the largest private collection of French Art Nouveau in Europe. The menu is inspired by Pierre Gagnaire and realised by Sébastien Morellon.
Transport
The nearest airport to the Champagne region is Paris-Vatry (XCR), about 50 minutes by car from Reims, however it is unlikely to be the most convenient as it connects to limited destinations. Instead, it is probably best to fly to Paris Charles de Gaulle (CDG), then hop on a high-speed train (TGV) to Champagne-Ardenne, changing to the TER train for Reims.
Alternatively, the Eurostar from London arrives into Paris Gard du Nord, which is one stop on the metro, or an eight-minute walk, to Paris Gard de l’Est, where a direct train runs to Reims (46 minutes). From Reims you can then get trains to Epernay (34 minutes) and Aÿ (27 minutes).
