Japanese Koshu: History and top wines worth seeking out

Japan may be better known for its sake , but its national grape, Koshu , has been picking up awards for several years, mostly under the radar. It may be surprising to know that, although a relatively new style to Western audiences, it has actually been produced by Japanese wineries for over a century. Distribution in the UK and USA is still relatively small, but we have picked out some top wines tasted recently that should be available outside of Japan. Scroll down to see 13 Japanese Koshu wines worth seeking out It's a must-try for fans of Loire whites such as Sancerre and Saumur Blanc, thanks to its crisp acidity and apple and citrus flavours but Koshu is very much its own grape. [subscriber-content] Yamanashi, home of Koshu Koshu is a native Japanese grape variety that has been grown domestically for centuries, but only used for winemaking since 1874. It was considered to have originally come from China via the silk road, according to the domestic trade organisation Koshu of Japan. The name ‘Koshu (甲州)’ came from the ancient kingdom of ‘Kai (甲斐)’, which is located in the area now known as the Yamanashi Prefecture. It now covers 480 hectares of vineyards in Japan, with 95% grown in the Yamanashi prefecture, in the shadow of Mount Fuji. History The local legend has two versions of the story of how the Koshu grape was discovered. One is that during the Nara period (AD 710-784), a well-respected monk named Gyoki had a dream of Bhaisajyaguru (the Buddha of healing and medicine), who was holding a bunch of grapes. He made a wooden sculpture depicting what he saw and on his way to deliver the sculpture to Daizenji temple, Katsunuma town, Gyoki discovered a grape vine. The vine was first planted for medical use and was soon spread to the whole region and beyond. The other version of the story is less mysterious. In 1186, a Katsunuma villager named Kageyu found an unusual species of wild grape on his way back from a religious ritual. He took the seeds and planted them in his own farmland. Five years later, the vine finally started to produce purple-red-coloured fruits. Legend has it that he presented the Koshu grape to Minamoto no Yoritomo, the first Shōgun of the Kamakura government. Koshu grapes were seen as a table grape for centuries, until 1870, when a monk and a businessman joined forces to start making wine with the domestic grape inside a temple. They decided to give winemaking a try as they saw Westerners drinking grape wine in Yokohama, then a major port and base of foreign trade in Japan. Inspired by soybean press used for making miso paste, they brought in their own wooden hand press, as well as big sake barrels to store their wines. In 1877, Katsunuma village established its own winemaking company literally named ‘the Great Japanese Wine (大日本葡萄酒会社)’, and sent two young pioneers, Takano Masanari (高野正誠) and Tsuchiya Ryuken(土屋龍憲), to study viticulture and oenology in France. This move marked the dawn of modern winemaking in Japan, as recorded by the official textbook of Japan Sommelier Association. [caption id="attachment_354471" align="alignnone" width="650"] Tomi-No-Oka's Koshu vineyard with Mt Fuji in the background.[/caption] Viticulture In 2004, UC Davis conducted DNA research on Koshu and confirmed its status as vitis vinifera. Currently, the country produces 3,416 tons of Koshu grapes each year, much higher than any other varieties, including Chardonnay (1183t), Kerner (346t) and Sauvignon Blanc (176t), according to Koshu of Japan. The vast majority of Koshu grapes are grown in the Yamanashi prefecture which features volcanic soils with clay, gravel and silt. Being a major fruit producing region in Japan for over 1000 years, Yamanashi is already one of the driest regions in the nation. Even so, the average rainfall of Katsunuma town can reach above 1000mm per year, with nearly 80% of that falling during the growing season. The humidity is countered by training the vines high above the ground on a pergola system to encourage airflow. Some vineyard workers even adorn individual bunches of grapes with hats that protect them from rain; an incredible display of attention to detail! [caption id="attachment_354476" align="alignnone" width="650"] Protective 'rain hats' on Koshu bunches.[/caption] Flavour Koshu had always been made as a sweet and fruity wine until the 1980s, when local producers started to make drier and 'sur lie' styles. Nowadays Japanese winemakers are reducing the use of oak in order to reveal the original flavour of the variety, as well as the refined grip of tannin from the pink-hued fruit. A delicate and aromatic grape variety, Koshu produces refreshing still and sparkling wines that display distinctly Eastern flavours such as yuzu and creamed rice. Suffice to say, thanks to the high acidity and lightness of this variety, it's a perfect pairing for Japanese cuisine, particularly sushi. [/subscriber-content] Japanese Koshu wines to try: [wine-collection] You may also like Wines of the Year 2020: sparkling, sweet and fortified wines Top 2010 wines: A decade on Top 10 most read Decanter Premium articles from 2020

PREMIUM

Japanese Koshu: History and top wines worth seeking out

Scroll down to see 13 Japanese Koshu wines worth seeking out

Japanese Koshu wines to try:

You may also like

Wines of the Year 2020: sparkling, sweet and fortified wines
Top 2010 wines: A decade on
Top 10 most read Decanter Premium articles from 2020

Latest Wine News

Readers respond to Andrew Jefford’s ‘The problem with Bordeaux…’

‘Kokumi’ effect may enhance richness in sparkling wines

Fireside Champagnes for the festive season

Market Watch: Fine wine market review

Andrew Jefford: ‘A Christmas wine should be one to spend time over’

Latest Premium Content

Decanter’s Top 50 US wines: Part three – the top 10

Sachsen and Saale-Unstrut: Unearthing Germany’s exciting eastern regions

Decanter’s Top 50 US Wines: Part two – 30-11

Champagne releases for autumn & winter 2024

Decanter’s Top 50 US Wines: Part one – 50-31