Steven Spurrier's top wines to take out from the cellar

Chateau Chalon Vin Jaune From the cellar: ChÃ¢teau-Chalon Vin Jaune The history of Domaine Jean Bourdy at Arlay in the Jura dates from 1475. Such history was illustrated in a tasting back to 1937 of its Vin Jaunes from the ChÃ¢teau-Chalon AC, a unique wine from the local Savagnin grape that must stay seven years in barrel before being going into the classic 620ml clavelin bottles. ChÃ¢teau- Chalon Vin Jaunes must first be passed by a tasting commission before being bottled, and one year in five is rejected. 2004: lemon yellow, vigorous acidity, great length, fresh walnut note, like a white Hermitage; 1996: pale gold, slightly nutty, vibrates with depth and acidity for the long term; 1976: pale amber, with rich concentration from a heatwave year that complements the acidity, excellent; 1969: goldamber, richness and acidity blending together to create a superb expression of terroir; 1954: pale amontillado colour, richness of dried fruits with acidity as a back-up, a memorable wine; 1945: amber-gold, natural concentration and still youthful; 1937: amber, has taken on a Sherry-like concentration with natural vigour, superb. Contact Dudley & de Fleury Wines for prices and availability. Taken from the January 2013 issue of Decanter magazine Subscribe to Decanter magazine to see Steven's recommendations every month Brane Cantenac From the cellar: 2005 MÃ©doc âsuper secondsâ In October last year, Decanterâs Michael Broadbent presented 12 MÃ©doc 2005 âsuper secondsâ, three from each major commune. Space permits a few words on each, with marks and drinking dates. Margaux: Brane- Cantenac, fragrant, supple, drink 2013â2025, 17/20pts (90/100pts); Rauzan-SÃ©gla, elegant, classic, still quite tannic, 2015â2030, 18.5 (95); Palmer, broad, rich and robust, 2015â2030, 18 (93). St-Julien: LÃ©oville-PoyferrÃ©, spicy fruit, still leathery, 2015â 2030, 17.25 (90+); LÃ©oville- Barton, fragrant, great structure and length, 2015â2035, 19 (96); LÃ©oville-LasCases, wonderful purity of fruit, a grand classic, premier cru standard, 2018â2045, 19.5 (98). Pauillac: Pontet-Canet, spicy and briary, chunky but a great future, 2015â2035, 18+ (93); Pichon- Lalande, described by Broadbent as âsweet and sexyâ; forward, 2013â2025, 17.5 (91); Pichon- Baron, fine nose, robust with some maturity, 2013â2025, 17 (90). St-EstÃ¨phe: Calon-SÃ©gur, ripe, gamey and charming, 2015â2030, 18 (93); Cos dâEstournel, meaty and robust, almost too rich, 2015â2025, 17.5 (91); Montrose, Cabernet-led fruit with classic length, a great wine, 2015â2040, 19 (96). Taken from the February 2013 issue of Decanter magazine Billaud Simonâs Les Clos Chablis From the cellar: Mature Burgundies A Burgundy-themed dinner began with two superb 2004 grands crus: Billaud-Simonâs Les Clos, Chablis, lightly honeyed with Les Closâs rich, dry finish and a great future, and RÃ©mi Rollinâs Corton-Charlemagne, richer and more forward than expected, perfect now. Then a pair of reds from the CÃ´te de Beaune: Domaine de Montille, Les GrÃ¨ves, Beaune 1er Cru 2005, elegantly lifted fruit with 10 years in front of it, and Comte Armandâs Clos des Epenots, Pommard 1990, still tannic, will come round this decade and last through the next, but shows more power than finesse. Finally two reds from the CÃ´te de Nuits: Domaine Maumeâs Champeaux 1er Cru, Gevrey- Chambertin 1999, pure and floral with fine Gevrey grip, good for at least five years, and MÃ©o-Camuzetâs Aux Boudots 1er Cru, Nuits-St- Georges 1999, big, earthy, rich and broad, totally pure with superb length, the best of the evening, with 10 years to go, proving that 1999 is the only rival to 1990 in that decade. Burgundy has no dessert wines, so we finished with JJ PrÃ¼mâs Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese 2001 and a sublime Hine Cognac 1987, landed 1990, bottled 2004. Taken from the March 2013 issue of Decanter magazine DÃ¶nnhoff OberhÃ¤user BrÃ¼cke SpÃ¤tlese 2010 From the cellar: Bordeaux Index lunch At a lunch prepared by the team at Londonâs The Ledbury restaurant and held by merchant Bordeaux Index, 12 wine writers and critics were treated to Taittingerâs Comtes de Champagne 2000 as an aperitif, floral with a creamy texture, perfect now, before moving onto a superb DÃ¶nnhoff, OberhÃ¤user BrÃ¼cke Riesling SpÃ¤tlese 2010 â controlled richness, racy acidity and a great future â paired with treacle-cured salmon. With roasted partridge came Haut-Brion 1973 from magnum, still showing its wild rose bouquet and taffeta texture, very much alive; then with Longhorn beef cooked three ways we moved onto Lafite-Rothschild 1990, also from magnum, that had lovely concentration and elegant strength, with 20 years in front of it; followed by a double-magnum of Gruaud-Larose 1990, rich, masculine and chunky, very earthy but much less elegant than the Lafite. Finally, with the fresh clementine and yogurt dessert we compared two private releases of Domaine Huetâs Clos du Bourg, Vouvray Moelleux 1989, the second from Noel Pinguetâs first full year under biodynamism. Both rich with great natural concentration, the âbioâ for me being a little more in the vinsanto style. Taken from the April 2013 issue of Decanter magazine Grahamâs Port From the cellar: A toast to John Avery MW Not even the deepest snow could keep more than 100 guests away from the memorial banquet held by Bristolâs Commanderie de Bordeaux for its founder, wine merchant John Avery MW. After an aperitif of Averyâs rosÃ© Champagne, the wines were Bordeaux at its best: Domaine de Chevalierâs 2003 white showed none of that yearâs heat, being still fresh and pure with a good future; DâAngludet 1995 was young and vigorous but evidently Margaux, and will last as well as the splendid 1986; another Margaux, DâIssan 1985, was very true to its appellationâs femininity, and beautifully balanced; over to St-Emilion, with Canon 2000 showing youthful, floral Cabernet Franc-influenced fruit, superb with a long life in front of it; back to the MÃ©doc, with ChÃ¢teau Margaux 1988 itself, whose fragrance, smoothness of texture and depth, and fine dry finish got my highest praise; then DâYquem 1989, massively rich, and at a glorious peak with enough natural acidity to hold it for years; finally a very Graham-ish 1983 Grahamâs Port allowed us to raise another glass in Johnâs memory. Taken from the May 2013 issue of Decanter magazin e Vieux TÃ©lÃ©graphe blanc From the cellar: A RhÃ´ne weekend Mark Savage MW and his wife coming to stay in Dorset was a good excuse to focus on the RhÃ´ne Valley. The first evening kicked off with Billecart- Salmon, CuvÃ©e Elizabeth Salmon RosÃ© 2002, beautifully poised and delicate, then down to ChÃ¢teauneuf-du-Pape with three wines from Domaine de Vieux TÃ©lÃ©graphe: white 2006, young looking, fragrant and enticingly southern; red 1998 from magnum, firm and garriguey, with vigour and length, almost claret in structure; and red 1995, richer and deeper, more Grenache, all black fruits; superb. While all three had a good future, my last bottle of ChÃ¢teau de Beaucastel 1981 was a revelation of lissom fruit and middle sweetness that grew in the glass, perfect in its fourth decade. The next evening we began with Pol Roger, Blanc de Blanc 1998 from grand cru vineyards, combining florality and precision; leading to ChÃ¢teau Grillet 2006, one of the rarest single winery appellations, whose density of stone fruits and rich but dry finish places it above all the nearby Condrieus. Then, still in the north, a marvellously elegant NoÃ«l Verset, Cornas 1999. To end in the Loire, the mature richness of Prince Poniatowskiâs Vouvray 1976. The Savages must come again. Taken from the June 2013 issue of Decanter magazine Subscribe to Decanter magazine to see Steven's recommendations every month Coche Dury Meursault Rougeots 2002 From the cellar: Singapore highlights Twice a year, Jeannie Cho Lee MW, Michael Hill Smith MW and I meet up in Singapore as wine consultants for Singapore Airlines. We bring a few bottles to go with some of the most exciting food in Asia. My first evening opened well with DÃ¶nnhoffâs HermannshÃ¶hle Riesling 2008, perfect with deep-fried squid, followed by Wild Earthâs Pinot Noir 2009 from Central Otago, the natural ripeness of which was a match for spicy noodles. The next night, Faiveleyâs Mazis- Chambertin 2001, with briary red fruits and a velvety texture, will see its 20th birthday with ease. The high spot were two wines brought by Ficofiâs Philippe Capdouze: Coche-Duryâs Les Rougeots 1er Cru, Meursault 2002 â fresh, minerally vibrant and pure; and Domaine de la RomanÃ©e-Contiâs Grands- EchÃ©zeaux 1999 â rich, spicy and earthy on the nose, voluptuous yet firm. Finally, at Ignatius Chanâs Japanese eatery, Hill Smithâs choice of Michel Lafargeâs Volnay 1er Cru 1996 was in its prime, and my bottle of Cain Conceptâs The Benchland 2005 showed Napa at its most Bordelais. Then Iggy and his wife served a superbly precise Cristal 2005, with years in front of it. Taken from the July 2013 issue of Decanter magazine Chateau LâEvangile From the cellar: Dinner in Yorkshire Every spring I have the pleasure of choosing the theme and the wines (many from my own cellar) for a 24-guest dinner at Ripley Castle in Yorkshire. For the 10th anniversary, we returned to Bordeaux. There were four pairs, the first being dry whites, with Denis Dubourdieuâs Blanc Sec, Graves 2011 showing florality for early drinking, leading to Les Plantiers du Haut-Brion, Pessac-LÃ©ognan 2006 whose honey nose and firm flavours showed youth and a good future. Two 1995s followed: ChÃ¢teau Langoa-Barton, St-Julien, opening up with unmistakable grace and class with a decade in front of it; and Clos de lâOratoire, St-Emilion, with robust, plummy, earthy fruit, at its peak now. Then two great 1990s, provided by one of the hosts, each getting a full five stars from Michael Broadbent in his Vintage Wine: ChÃ¢teau Pichon Lalande, Pauillac, firm and elegant with suppleness from its Merlot vines, and ChÃ¢teau LâEvangile, Pomerol, elegant, rich and velvety, both wines superb now and drinking well for some years to come. Finally two Sauternes: ChÃ¢teau Doisy-VÃ©drines 2001, rich with a great future ahead and ChÃ¢teau Rieussec 1995 at its best now. Taken from the August 2013 issue of Decanter magazine Ornellaia 2007 From the cellar: Ornellaia A tasting of two decades of Ornellaia took place at Sothebyâs before an auction whose record-breaking prices showed that this estate now equals, if not surpasses, its elder neighbour Sassicaia, with whom it has shared the Bolgheri Rosso Superiore DOC since 1999. Cabernet Sauvignon usually dominates the final blend, followed by Merlot, Cabernet Franc and recently a little Petit Verdot. The first vintage was 1985 and the head winemaker is Axel Heinz. The 2010 vintage (53% Cabernet Sauvignon) has a rich and velvety coffee bean nose over cassis, drink 2016â2035, 19/20pts (96/100). The 2009 (52%) is a little cooked, but Cabernet Franc lifts it, 2015â2025, 17 (90). The 2008 (54%) is denser than 2009, powerful yet fragrant, black fruits, tannins softening to a velvety texture, 2013â2025, 18.5 (95). The 2007 (55%) is very Tuscan, more structure than finesse, 2013â2020, 17 (90). The 2004 (60%) has wonderful fragrance, hidden strength in perfect harmony, 2013â2030, 19 (96). In 2001 (65%) Cabernet Sauvignon dominates with fine middle sweetness and a firm finish, 2013â2025, 18 (93). The 1999 (65%) is a broad Cabernet, 2013â2018, 17 (90). The 1990 (82%) is a fragrant, textured wine, perfect for 2013, 18 (93). Taken from the September 2013 issue of Decanter magazine Des bouches du rhone domaine de trevallon 2005 From the cellar: Domaine de TrÃ©vallon 1982â2009 The iconic Domaine de TrÃ©vallon, whose 17ha (hectares) of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah and 2ha of Marsanne and Roussanne and a touch of Chardonnay lie high up between St-RÃ©my and Les Baux-de-Provence, was created by Eloi DÃ¼rrbach and his wife. The first vintage was 1976, but the breakthrough was the 1982, since when it has been a collectorâs item. UK merchant Yapp Bros has been the importer since 1982, and put on this tasting that not even DÃ¼rrbach could come close to creating. Price and availability enquiries to Yapp. 2009 still young, Cabernet dominant, elegant but needs time (17/20pts, drink 2015â2022); 2007 rich, spicy Syrah nose, Cabernet providing length and grip (18.5, 2013â2027); 2005 still young, the two grapes beautifully balanced, very good (18, 2013â2022); 2003 mature, warm, spicy fruit (16.5, 2013â2016); 2001 earthy nose, good southern fruit (17.25, 2013â2017); 1998 youthful, very individual, spicy wine (17, 2013â2016); 1995 firm colour, good red fruits, a little dry (16, 2013â2015); 1990 rich and spicy, lovely southern fruit (18, 2013â2018); 1985 lovely texture and balance (17, 2013â2015); 1982 harmonious southern fruit, still superb (18, 2013â2016). Taken from the October 2013 issue of Decanter magazine Brunello di Montalcino Fuligni From the cellar: Holidaying in Tuscany My annual family holiday in Tuscany is usually split between Fattoria Nittardi in Chianti and Castello di Argiano near Montalcino. At Nittardi, I tasted a vertical of Nectar Dei, its icon Maremma Toscana blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon with Petit Verdot, Merlot, Syrah and a touch of Alicante Bouschet. The 2003, the wineâs first vintage, showed the heat of that year and the young vines; 2004 had both firmness and spice; 2005 was perfect now in the Tuscan Bordeaux style; 2006 was young with lifted fragrance, vigour and balance; 2007 was a blockbuster with superb tannins for the future; 2008 was a marvellous expression of deep fruit and was my favourite of the tasting (to 2020); 2009 was in the 2007 mould, but more elegant (to 2018), and finally the 2010, whose exuberant black fruits will see it through to 2025. Back home, I opened three 2001 Tuscans from the cellar: Rocca di Montegrossi, Vigneto San Marcellino, Chianti Classico Riserva, a single-vineyard Sangiovese of extreme elegance; Castello di Argiano, Brunello di Montalcino, warm, smooth with spice and charm; and Brunello di Montalcino, Fuligny, more vigorous and firmer, Pauillac to Argianoâs Pomerol; all three with life ahead of them. Taken from the November 2013 issue of Decanter magazine Pol Roger Blanc de-= Blanc 1999 From the cellar: Last of the summer wines Spending part of August in Dorset, I opened a few âlast bottlesâ. Whites: Pol Roger, Blanc de Blanc 1999 â white flowers and summer fruits, a youthful blend of ripeness and tension; Marc Morey, En Virondet 1er Cru, Chassagne-Montrachet 1996 â honeyed and rich, having held its vigour due to natural acidity; RenÃ© Dauvissat, Les Clos Grand Cru, Chablis 1983 â dry herbs, expressive fruit, rich yet bone dry. Huet, Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec, Vouvray 1992 â floral honeyed nose and bright acidity, having eaten much of the sugar. Reds: the Volnay-like Annick Parent, Les Rugiens 1er Cru, Pommard 2000 and grander Chanson, Clos des FÃ¨ves 1er Cru, Beaune 2000 both showed how perfectly this âlightâ vintage had aged; LÃ©oville- Barton 1986 â a fine St-Julien nose, but still a little hard on the finish, more classic than charming; RenÃ© Rostaing, CÃ´te Blonde, CÃ´te-RÃ´tie 1994 âbeautifully textured with elegance and depth from a great vineyard; Auguste Clape, Cornas 1983 â warm, ripe nose and earthy yet classy vigour on the palate, perhaps the most surprising of them all. Taken from the Decanter 2013 issue of Decanter magazine Subscribe to Decanter magazine to see Steven's recommendations every month

Steven Spurrier’s top wines to take out from the cellar

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